MARCH 2011 | Nยบ 170 | Free
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March 2011 33. VERTICAL ROAD
07. AN INSIDE LOOK
Features Catalan plants under threat
The joys of Irish dancing
When malaria stalked the land
From the Senior Editor:
Regulars On our web
An inside look
Interview: Mary Fons i Fleming
M5: Places for brunch
Food and drink Reviews and more
DIRECTORIES Food & Drink
As you will already have noticed on the front cover, change is afoot at Metropolitan. As well as moving to a matt look, we’ve started a new cover format which will see us showcasing work by different photographers and illustrators presenting a personal view of Barcelona and Catalunya—each month, you’ll be able to find out more about the featured cover artist on page 7. There are other new inclusions inside the magazine: we’ve brought forward our ‘On the web’ section to page 6 and created a two-page spread on pages 8 and 9 about openings, special events and fashion in Barcelona, while on page 26, you’ll find ‘M5’, focusing on five places in the city linked by a theme; we kick off this month with places to have brunch, a weekend pleasure that Barcelona seems finally to have cottoned on to. Our features include Lauren Mannion’s piece on her passion for Irish dancing, fitting in nicely with the celebrations for St Patrick on the 17th, and Nick Lloyd recalling the time not so long ago that malaria was a common disease in Spain. Enjoy the issue and let us know what you think about the changes. Hannah Pennell
Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Esther Jones Senior Editor Hannah Pennell Editor Katy MacGregor Art Director Aisling Callinan Sales Director Rainer Hobrack Account Executives Richard Cardwell and Lila Videla Marketing Coordinator Jade Anglesea Sales Assistant Clare Bleasdale Financial Assistant Kim Kalter Editorial Assistants Dylan Clive and Lucy Wright Design Assistant Ainur Ulan Contributors Jonathan Bennett, Lucy Brzoska, Roger de Flower, Edward Hugh, Nick Lloyd, Lauren Mannion, Tara Stevens and Nicola Thornton Photographers Lucy Brzoska, Tracy Gilbert, Llorenç Sáez and Lee Woolcock Cover photo Melanie Aronson Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial Office Enric Granados 48, entlo. 2ª, 08008 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; email@example.com Sales firstname.lastname@example.org General enquiries email@example.com. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Printer Litografia Rosés Depósito Legal B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.
Find your nearest distribution point on www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
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R E N TA L S
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on our web... Interview: Tony Orrico
Photo courtesy of Michael Hart
Breaking down the barriers between choreography and visual art, Tony Orrico is a man who’s doing things differently. He’s here as part of the biannual LP’11 Dance Festival (March 4th to 27th; www. laportabcn.com) and spent 20 minutes answering a few of our questions about his highly original work. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/tonyorrico
Win tickets: Apassionata
We’ve got six tickets to give away for Apassionata at the Palau Sant Jordi on March 26th at 9.30pm. Watch expert riders and trained dancers come together in a show of equestrian artistry and movement. For your chance to win a ticket simply go to www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/apassionata
Interview: Caitlin Rose Ahead of her March 2nd concert, Lucy Wright caught up with Caitlin Rose to ask her about growing up in Nashville, her musical influences and new album Own Side Now. To read more go to www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/caitlinrose
New blogs: Keep an eye out for the two new blogs that we’ve recently launched. Dylan Clive digests and analyses the local sports news, talking about anything from handball matches to the retirement of greats like Ronaldo. www.barcelona-metropolitan. com/teamtalk. Peter Allegretti is a qualified hypnotherapist and in his monthly blog he’ll be looking at different ‘seasonal’ disorders and making suggestions as to how you can feel better and live healthier. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/livewell
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An inside look Photographer Melanie Aronson
’m 26 years old. I grew up outside Boston in the US and earned a degree in Anthropology from Columbia University. I’ve been taking photos for eight years and have visited over 30 countries photographing and creating documentary stories. I’m currently travelling through Israel and Palestine examining the conflict there through the eyes of women. My favourite time of day is late afternoon when the light makes anything and everything look phenomenal. My favourite place in Barcelona is Born. I love getting lost in the narrow streets, surrounded by art galleries, boutiques, and cafés. An essential item is my iPhone. I use it to make voice memos and notes, take audio clips of my subjects, to photograph, to check the weather. You name it, it does it! The cover: What drew me to this image was the stark whiteness of the new car juxtaposed against the old, beautifully stained walls of an abandoned building. The word ‘Independència’ clearly referring to the desire for Catalan independence somehow metaphorically spoke to the endurance of this dream; from the past when the building had life and occupancy to the present when brand new Minis pass through the streets.
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08 THE MONTH
Madness or genius? A new musuem opens this month that will appeal to all you bedroom inventors. miBa is the brainchild of Pep Torres, a man with many strings to his bow. You might have seen Torres on TV showing off his inventions, some mad, some functional such as his pedal-powered vending machine that he’d like to see in all schools and places of work. His new Museum of Ideas and Inventions, which opens on March 28th, will host exhibitions such as Fu-Tour, a showcase of the imagined everyday objects Torres thinks we might be all using by 2300 or Funventions, which includes things like a nifty sunseeking plantpot and other such items. With planned workshops for businesses, labs where children can compete for places and talks Pep Torres really hopes to make miBa a hub for people with ideas where the sensible meets the madcap. miBA - www.mibamuseum.com
Fashion A new exhibition at the Disseny Hub Barcelona casts a discerning eye on the relationship between fashion and the desired public image that we present to the world. Although it is now possible to throw on pretty much anything, things were very different just a few decades ago. ¿Qué me Pongo? (What should I wear?) is a study of the wardrobe of Maria Brillas (1905 – 1992). Married to one of Barcelona’s eminent businessmen, she enjoyed a position of power and inﬂuence that was under constant social scrutiny. Donated in its entirety by Hilda Bencomo, granddaughter of Brillas, the collection of clothes represents three-quarters of the socialite’s life, making it possible to analyse and pinpoint the different stages of her personal identity construction, from the age of 27 to her death. Maria Brillas was loyal to her only couturier, Pedro Rodríguez. The forgotten master of beautiful dresses, dripping in exquisite embroidery and precious stones, he was the person in charge of every
In a new column, fashion writer Vera Ciria talks us through what’s on her Barcelona style radar. single garment in the Brillas wardrobe. The tight relationship between client and couturier transcended to a deep friendship and it’s been said that Rodríguez was more important to Brillas than her own husband. The total collection is composed of 183 garments and 158 accessories. Careful selection has resulted in four different areas in the show: day, night, cocktail and ceremony. The garments displayed span the period from the Thirties to the Seventies and both her daily outfits and gorgeous evening wear, strike the perfect balance between style, quality and propriety. A sneak-peak into her personal wardrobe is a glimpse into Brillas’s life. Each piece is an extension of her personality. Each dress whispers its memories, every fold of fabric speaks volumes about the couture genius of Pedro Rodríguez. “What should I wear?” is still a valid question today, it just implies different contexts. ¿Qué me Pongo? From March 9th until August 28th www.dhub-bcn.cat Photos by Guillem
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THE MONTH 09
Food on film
Bringing together cinematography and gastronomy is the idea behind new festival Film&Cook. Over the course of two days, films such as Soul’s Kitchen and Joaquín Oristrell’s Dieta Mediterránea will be screened followed by some of Spain’s top chefs demonstrating their culinary skills or discussing cooking. Guest speakers include Carme Ruscalleda and Mey Hofmann (pictured). But the highlight of the festival will surely be the premiere of documentary El Bulli: Cooking in Progress with a presentation talk from Ferran Adrià himself. The festival for any foodie film fan. March 11th to 13th. www.filmandcook.com
Let us eat cake Fans of the Casa Portuguesa in Gràcia, and there are many of you judging by the queues out the door of a Sunday, will be pleased to know that they‘ve opened a second venue nearby. The new space is dedicated to wine tastings and art exhibitions, and is available to rent for private parties. You can also buy traditional Portuguese food products, wine and contemporary crafts. They also offer a catering service, which is one way of getting those moreish Pastéis de Belém delivered direct to your door. Carrer Or 8 (next to Plaça Diamant) www.acasaportuguesa.com
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Wild Barcelona Text and photos by Lucy Brzoska
Common borage sprouting out of Montjuïc castle
Edward Hugh is a British Barcelona-based macro economist who writes for La Vanguardia and the Catalan News Agency, amongst others, and has a popular blog and Facebook page. In this column, he explains some of the current ins and out of the local economy.
DON’T SHOOT THE MESSENGER!
Black stamen on borage flower
ou can hear it’s spring by listening to the walls of Montjuïc castle, which ring with house sparrow chatter. With the breeding season underway, streams of energetic chirping issue from countless nesting holes. Round the corner, away from the clank and grind of the port, a repeated “pupuput” call drifts across the silence of the castle moat, and a familiar flat-topped silhouette appears on the barbed wire: the hoopoes are back. Generations of these elegant birds have been unobtrusively raised in a well-hidden cavity nearby. Plants also find useful habitats in this 18th-century fortress, benefitting from the years of erosion. An incipient fig tree has rooted in a crack in the faded sandstone walls, which were quarried from the cliffs below. Common borage, an early spring flower that swarms up the slopes of Montjuïc, stages a final invasion by sprouting from the castle itself. As borage flowers droop quite heavily, it’s handy being able to look at them from below to appreciate their heavenly hues—a deep sky-blue verging on violet. Close up, you can see prominent black stamen meeting together in a sharp point. People pick the flowers as an ingredient for salads, adding an unexpected scattering of blue stars among the tomatoes. In Aragon and Navarra, borage is grown as a vegetable, though the leaves need careful washing to remove their spiky hairs. If the scything squads of Parcs i Jardins permit, a rare white variety of borage sometimes grows in the grass of the castle moat. Other white stars shining on Montjuïc in March are the asphodels. These milky flowers are attached to wand-like stems, opening up one at a time, while others wait their turn above. Able to grow in the most impoverished earth, the asphodels cluster in sparkling bushels round the base of the castle and raise your spirits at winter’s end.
Lucy Brzoska runs nature tours and writes for www.iberianature.com
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By Edward Hugh
omething strange happened recently. The morning show on Catalunya Radio interviewed the Financial Times’s Spain correspondent Victor Mallet. Nothing very strange in that, you might think; it’s exactly what you might expect them to do in these troubled economic times. What was strange was the form the interview took. It was extremely aggressive, and basically inquisitorial: why was the Financial Times (FT) bent on doing so much harm to Catalunya, the eager participants asked. Fortunately Victor took it all in his stride, and responded in his normal goodhumouredly fashion. Why is any of this interesting? Because I think it allows us a rather disturbing glimpse into some widely-held primal gut reactions. The issue in question is debt, Catalan debt. The offending line, the one that got his interviewers really wound up, was to be found in an interview Mallet had conducted with the new conseller for economy, Andreu Mas-Colell. What the respected FT reporter told his readers was that Catalan debt had become one of the principal threats to the ability of the Spanish administration to sell their reform and austerity programme to the financial markets, and as such, Catalan overspending ultimately constituted a threat to the stability of the Euro. The fact of the matter is that the government of the Generalitat agreed to a deficit target of 2.4 percent of Catalan GDP last year, and it came in with a final outcome of 3.7 percent. This just sounds too Greek for comfort. Of course, what irked the programme participants is the fact that Catalunya is a large net contributor to the finances of the Spanish regional system. So, they argued, it is not the Catalan debt which is the problem, but the abuse of Catalunya as a source of funding for other Spanish regions. In fact, there is a lot of truth in that view, but this is a matter that Catalan society itself has to resolve, rather than attack a highly respected and independent journalist over. If you can’t handle the problem yourself then please don’t shoot the messenger. The issue of course goes much deeper. The Catalan government currently faces a financing problem of major proportions. The government has struggled hard to get permission to issue more debt, but who will buy the debt, and at what price? And if the debt cannot be sold, then nurses, teachers, care workers and others will not be paid all they expect to be paid. It is that serious. Which is why we need people like Victor Mallet, who take the trouble to get to know and write about Catalunya, to help the readers of his newspaper understand we are serious people here. But they will only really understand that we are when we act like serious people, and recognise the delicate situation facing everyone in Spain, and our responsibility to keep to our commitments, even if we don’t like them.
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Mary Fons i Fleming Interpreter/Translator, US-Catalan, 46
I was born and raised in Barcelona. I have an American mother and Catalan father so was raised trilingual in Spanish, Catalan and English. I went to a school where French was taught well, so I started to learn French properly when I was eight. I also speak Italian fluently. People started to encourage me to become an interpreter when I was really little but I always thought I couldn’t do something like that because when I’m speaking for myself, I’m always hunting for words, correcting myself and stuttering like you wouldn’t believe! But I took to it straightaway. Interpreting is so much more than speaking a language. You’ve got to be well-read, you need to have a general background in everything, you’ve got to know the basics about how the world works, what people are likely to say when they are talking about things and read the newspapers. I was really lucky because the year I finished my course, Spain joined what was then the Common Market. The European Parliament (EP) needed interpreters so I went straight along for an aptitude test, followed by a training ‘crash course’ in Luxembourg. After that, it was sink or swim in the booth! That was 1986.
Keeping up your languages is hard work, but it is also really important to be able to speak your native language well, to speak it precisely, to have natural grammar, to be expressive in the way you speak to be able to convey a message really accurately and pleasantly and be able to display the nuances and the emotions too. I really enjoy it when our acting skills and our intellectual skills come into play. Once I was interpreting at a lecture on a specific piece of music and the speaker would occasionally hum little bits of the tune so that people could hear the difference between the major and minor keys. I’ve been singing since I was nine years old, so I just sang along a few bars behind him. They thought it was so funny. The very first speech I interpreted in the EP was for an Iranian speaker and I still don’t know to this day whether he was talking about a) cheap transport, b) chip transport, c) ship transport or d) sheep transport. I swear every time he said it I thought, “ah, he means this.” It was absolutely impossible to tell. The job can get quite emotional. I interpreted for Mandela when he went to the EP just after he was released, which was amazing. I also interpreted at TV3 for both of the Pinochet rulings from the House of Lords which was extremely difficult. Interpreting for people that have been tortured is very tough. Barcelona has changed a lot over the years but for me La Rambla is still the touchpoint. I lived in Brussels for four years and every time I’d come back on holiday, I didn’t really feel I’d quite touched base until I’d gone for a walk down the Rambla by myself. I’m quite nostalgic. There are things I miss about the past, like the many cod salting shops with their great marble basins. I think a lot of good urban renewal has taken place, but there are some things you shouldn’t ever have to get used to! I also find it very annoying when you walk into a regular bar and people are surprised when you ask for bread with tomato for your sandwiches. Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.
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14 PLANTS AT RISK
Almost gone forever Catalunya is home to some unique flora that is at serious risk of extinction. By Lucy Brzoska.
n plant conservation, disaster can strike from unexpected quarters. An undeveloped area of rough sandy ground in Salou is home to a seashore campion, Silene ramosissima, not found anywhere else in Catalunya. Last spring, when thousands of British students descended upon the town for the notorious Saloufest, this patch of ‘wasteland’ was turned into a makeshift car park for the duration. Most of the plants, with their small, pale purple flowers, were obliterated. Cèsar Blanché, botany professor at Barcelona University, has many more such anecdotes to tell, as one of the authors of El Llibre Vermell de les plantes vasculars endèmiques i amenaçades de Catalunya (The Red Book of Endemic and Endangered Plants in Catalunya; edited by Argania Editio). With limited funding, this attractive and informative book is the culmination of seven years of mainly voluntary work, with contributions from over a hundred experts, “a network of eyes scouring the land and pooling information”, as Blanché describes it. As plant populations can be fragmented and extremely localised, their mapping is vital to prevent accidental calamities as in Salou. El Llibre Vermell highlights 199 critically endangered species, and describes 17 as extinct. But it’s also a celebration of Catalunya’s impressive plant biodiversity and includes detailed descriptions of 127 endemic species. If you stand on a suitable vantage point, say La Morella in the Garraf, you get an instant impression of the sheer variety of habitats in Catalunya: from the snow-capped Pyrenees on the northern horizon, with their Alpine pastures, to the sheltered coastal plains immediately below. Looming behind Barcelona is Montseny, its beech forest among the most southerly of Europe, and hidden on the other side is the green lushness of La Garrotxa, an island of rainy Atlantic climate. This environmental mosaic is responsible for the impressive total of around 3,600 plant species found in Catalunya, which, like the rest of southern Europe, escaped the worst purges of the Ice Age. Plant hotspots are the Serra de Cadí in the north and Els Ports in the south where the central Iberian System of mountains meets the Mediterranean. The flower chosen for the front cover of El Llibre Vermell is found in Els
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Ports and nowhere else in the world. Aquilegia paui is a diminutive columbine, a genus of flowers also known as Granny’s Nightcaps, with purple petals reminiscent of a flouncy old-fashioned bonnet. The Catalan name, corniol (‘little horn’) refers to the long nectar spurs that curve to the back. The Corniol dels Ports has evolved to survive in rocky crevices, frequently seared by ferocious winds. The fragility of the flowers is deceptive: tough woody stems underground can be almost as thick as a tree. For Cèsar Blanché and his co-authors Llorenç Sáez and Pere Aymerich, the Corniol dels Ports is an emblem of their work. First discovered in 1919 by pioneering botanist Pius Font i Quer, the species existence was thrown into doubt after someone mislabelled it as common columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris) in the herbarium where samples are deposited for cataloguing. Subsequent searches for the plant were fruitless until 1999, when Joan Carles Baiges and Llorenç Sáez successfully retraced Font i Quer’s
“A new plant species is being found here every two to four years.” footsteps. But even now that 2,000 individual plants have been mapped out, mainly in remote locations within a natural park, survival is not automatically guaranteed. For Els Ports is also run as a lucrative hunting reserve and kept well-
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Diminutive columbine (Aquilegia paui). Photo by Llorenç Sáez
stocked with wild Iberian goats. Their thickly curving horns make a noble silhouette among the mountainous crags and a prized trophy in a hunter’s living room, but their artificial abundance leads to overgrazing. Blanché identifies another potentially destructive recreational activity: “The new fashion for rock-climbing means that inaccessible areas untouched by man for millennia are suddenly swarming with people.” To a certain extent, the extinction of species is a natural process. The sweet-scented orchid, Gymnadenia odoratissima, for instance, last seen in the Cadí 20 years ago, has almost certainly disappeared from Catalan territory, after dwindling to a tiny, genetically unviable population, independently of man’s activities. But we are living in ‘the global sixth age of mass extinction’, a period when numerous species become extinct on a global level, and it’s like a runaway train, driven relentlessly by human destruction of habitat. Unsurprisingly, most of Catalunya’s endangered and extinct plants are
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(or were) lowlanders, fighting for survival on the intensely agricultural plains of Lleida or along the coast where roads, railways lines, camping sites and seaside promenades squeeze them out. The situation is often unnecessarily aggravated by sloppy and wasteful development. Cèsar Blanché cites some examples: “Clearing land for a track, only to abandon it a year later; building an industrial estate and then using only 30 percent of its capacity; constructing apartments which then lie empty.” But he remains cautiously optimistic. “We’ve reached a crossroads. Much has been lost, but if we react now, much can be saved. And the process of destruction can be reversed. Take the Llobregat Delta: after the closure of the Toro Bravo campsite, horses were brought in to reduce encroaching canes by controlled grazing. Now a marvellous carpet of orchids flourishes there every spring. The way forward is for plants to be treasured as part of the national heritage.” Another species of campion, Silene sennenii, native to the Alt Empordà,
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16 PLANTS AT RISK
Seashore campion (Silene ramosissima). Photo by Llorenç Sáez
has been severely routed by sprawling industrial estates, ill-timed verge cutting and artificial light driving away its moth pollinators. The campion’s last stand is in the municipality of Figueres, in the grasslands of Sant Ferran Castle, the military prison where Antonio Tejero, the mustachioed Guardia Civil officer who fired his gun in the Spanish parliament during the failed 1982 coup d’état, served time. “Since an invasion from France is not imminent, the castle is about to be given a new role,” said Blanché. “So this is an ideal opportunity to conserve a monument and nature together. The example to follow is Valencia’s Xàtiva Castle, whose walls now bear a plaque declaring it to be a micro-reserve for an endemic rock plant (Sarcocapnos saetabensis) that grows there.” Plants generally lag behind animals in terms of public interest and El Llibre Vermell could help raise their profile. It’s a mighty volume (800 pages), well-illustrated and fascinating for anyone interested in nature, and whose price has been kept relatively low (€50) to ensure a maximum readership. As well as helping to update protective legislation, hopefully it will inspire people to get involved in conservation, if only by join-
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ing the network of eyes who guard Catalunya’s natural legacy with their knowledge of it. Meanwhile the work of mapping continues. It’s been pointed out that as well as an age of extinction, we’re living in a period of discovery, as scientists and naturalists intensify their searching. “A new plant species is being found in Catalunya every two to four years,” said Blanché. “We’re not finished yet.”
FIND OUT MORE Discover more about local nature with the NGO Depana, which organises courses and events with the aim of protecting the environment. This month, they are running a free course in Collserola about Mediterranean botany that is open to all: Sunday 13th, register by calling 93 210 4679 or by email: email@example.com. For other events and details about what Depana does, check their website, www.depana.org
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18 IRISH DANCING
Confessions on an Irish dancefloor
Irish dancing fan Lauren Mannion gives us the lowdown on her much-loved hobby. Photos by Lee Woolcock.
n March 17th, the Irish—and all those who have ever drunk in an Irish pub—will don Guinness hats and raise a glass to the Emerald Isle’s patron saint. So, in honour of Saint Patrick’s Day, I have a confession to make: My name is Lauren Mannion and I am an
Irish dancer. Admitting to it isn’t always an easy thing to do, even though I’m proud of it. After all, it’s not the hippest of pastimes. Tell anyone that your hobby is Irish dancing, and expect them to cry, “What, like this?” while hopping about, arms pinned to their sides and legs flailing in their best Riverdance impression. I should know—I started Irish dancing way back when I was a geeky
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13-year-old. Undeterred by my utter lack of natural ability and the fact that idolising Michael Flatley did nothing to improve my already pitiful street cred, I found that I absolutely loved it. Even painstakingly practising new steps in a church hall alongside infinitely more talented five-year-olds wasn’t enough to put me off. There was just something captivating about that unique combination of the energetic and the ethereal, the mixture of intricate footwork and powerful leaps set to a background of beautiful Celtic music. Irish dancing isn’t only about the rhythmic tapping made famous by shows like Riverdance and Lord of the Dance. The usual solo dances include reels, hornpipes and jigs, some using the well-known hard tap shoes and others danced in soft lace-up leather slippers. Then there are the countless céilí dances, done in pairs or groups and often danced at weddings and
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IRISH DANCING 19 other celebrations. You don’t need to be a great dancer to be able to enjoy it, and neither do you have to be Irish. And since last summer, you don’t have to leave Catalunya to learn the moves, as it now has its very own Irish dancing school, Aires Celtes. I’d been thinking about going back to Irish dancing for some time when I started looking online for classes last year, but I never seriously expected to find anything here in Barcelona. Preliminary searches revealed a couple of groups doing céilí dance performances, but regular classes seemed unlikely. Eventually, one day last September I came across a Facebook page for the Aires Celtes / Maria Singal Irish Dance School, newly opened and the first school in Spain to be registered with the World Irish Dance Association. Inspired by the mid-Nineties’ Riverdance phenomenon, Betlem Burcet, a music teacher from Girona, and Júlia Díez, a full-time
mum of two from Barcelona, had danced together for years, often travelling abroad to train, until finally deciding to strike out alone and form their own school. Both women met my tentative enquiries about classes with overwhelming enthusiasm, and before I knew it I was digging out my dancing shoes and wondering what I was letting myself in for. A good 10 years older and at least 10 kilos heavier than when I last danced, arriving for my first Aires Celtes class was a somewhat nervewracking experience, but I needn’t have worried. I was welcomed with open arms by the small but diverse group which included experienced performers, total beginners and even a couple of rusty former dancers like myself. It was only after going around the room giving the obligatory dos besos to my new classmates that it struck me that I was the only guiri, having idly imagined that most Irish dancers here would surely be expats. In fact, being English with a grandmother who hails from Limerick, I was by far the nearest anyone in the class came to being Irish, and as such, something of a curiosity. Having danced before, the basic jumps and hops came back to me fairly easily, although my hopes that the years might somehow have transformed me from clumsy and inept to graceful and athletic were sadly shortlived. I also quickly realised that the stamina and strength I’d had as a teenager were going to take some time to build back up—even bal-
Júlia Díez leads a class at Aires Celtes. Above left: Júlia’s son Artur practises his moves with fellow pupil Isabel
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20 IRISH DANCING
Get your leprechaun costume out of the wardrobe—it’s Saint Patrick’s Day once again. If you want to celebrate by doing more than drinking Guinness, why not head to the Third Mediterranean Curach Regatta–watch 16 teams participate in this race of traditional Irish rowing-boats (curachs). March 19th, 11am to 3pm, Port of Barcelona (Maremagnum area). www.iomramh.org Júlia Díez shows Anna, one of the students, a traditional costume
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ancing high on the balls of my feet was difficult, and I was in absolute agony for days after my first few classes! Then there was the substantial challenge of learning new steps; as every Irish dancing school creates its own unique routines, the moves I remembered from my English school were of no use to me here. Just as in my old school, the tricky task of remembering combinations is often helped by singing the steps along with the music. However, previous experience hadn’t prepared me for the delicious mongrel mix of English, Castilian and Catalan used: “Jump, two, three y un, dos, tres, and hop and hop i un taló!” Classes follow in much the same manner, with the teaching mostly done in Catalan or Castilian, liberally peppered with “kick your heels” and “treble, hop backs”. Júlia Díez explained from the start that the school’s emphasis is on correction and reinforcement of core technique, following the methods of registered Irish dance teacher Maria Singal, who lends the school her name and endorsement. Fine by me, since I need all the correction I can get. Besides, the school’s methods definitely seem to be working; in January, Júlia’s two young boys and Betlem scooped no less than eight first prizes between them at a World Irish Dance Association competition held in Dortmund, Germany. These competitions aren’t just about winning medals or moving up a grade, though; they’re also a great opportunity for us to travel, meet people from all over the world and watch champion dancers in action. Aires Celtes runs one kids’ class and two adult groups every week at the school’s base in Barcelona, while Betlem organises official courses for students at Girona University and runs twice-monthly Saturday classes in Arbúcies. The regular timetable is topped up by weekend intensive courses from Maria Singal and other visiting teachers, and performances for special occasions including—what else—Saint Patrick’s Day. This month we’ll be celebrating Ireland’s national day in style in the centre of Girona, where dancers from both branches of Aires Celtes will come together to show off their fancy footwork in displays, workshops and a parade. There’ll be live Irish music, storytelling sessions featuring Celtic mythology and even some typical Catalan dancing thrown in for good measure. Expect things to kick off around 10am on Sunday March 20th in the city centre. All are welcome and participation is, of course, encouraged. Why not give it a try? You can’t possibly be worse than me! Fancy giving Irish dancing a whirl? Contact Aires Celtes through their website: airesceltes.blogspot.com or by emailing: email@example.com
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VIP CLUBBING has exploded in recent years but
today’s VIP is likely to be different to those ‘behind-the-rope’ in the 90s. Author and Ibiza-phile Colin Butts looks at how… As someone who’s spent most of the last two decades bouncing between the Ibiza club scene and the London bar scene, one of the things I was most looking forward to exploring when I relocated to Barcelona in November, was the nightlife. In those two decades, Ibiza clubs and London bars have both changed enormously. The London bar scene has in recent years become very transient, with many venues only having three to five years of being en vogue, largely dictated by the amount of celebrity PR they can attract. Ibiza clubs have turned into global brands and evolved into slick, corporate machines. 15 years ago, a club like Pacha had a marked distinction between the fully-paid up, chemical generation clubber and its VIPs, who back then were made up predominantly of nautical tourists. It was a mutually beneficial symbiosis, where clubbers had a glimpse of the ‘behind-the-ropes’ lifestyle and the VIPs were cool by association, even if they did still dance like a dad at a wedding. This has now changed; many of those sweaty clubbers of yesteryear have made good and VIP culture has exploded. Those ensconced in today’s Ibiza VIP sections will usually know the difference between a Mojito and Morillo. For them, it is still largely about the music, be it a name DJ or an international big brand. However, like anyone paying 200€+ for a bottle of vodka, it is also about the service and feeling a bit… well, special. And getting the VIP area right is not just a question of putting prices up and sticking a firework on a bottle. It is an art.
Carlos Martinez, THE ONE BARCELONA’s operation’s manager, wants the club to have the reputation it previously enjoyed. “The only way to do that is to look after our customers. To put on the best DJs and brands, to give our VIPs the best service and to make sure those who are just here for the music can still have a few drinks without worrying about it making too big a hole in their pocket.” The club is working closely with local promoter Raum, who have brought Fatboy Slim, Cocoon Barcelona and Cassy to THE ONE BARCELONA. As well as the monthly Hed Kandi party, the club is hosting ever more private parties and corporate events. “We are convinced there is a market for a luxurious club with a strong music policy in Barcelona,” concludes Carlos, “it just needs to be promoted correctly with attention to detail. The days when clubs can just open their doors and expect people to flood in are over. Yes, we make sure our VIPs are looked after but the lifeblood of clubbing are the young people there for the music and they are increasingly overlooked.”
THE ONE BARCELONA
Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 13-25. Poble Espanyol, 08038 Barcelona More Info: www.theonebarcelona.com firstname.lastname@example.org 902 909 289
In Barcelona, there are plenty of club/bar hybrids in Port Olimpic and Zona Alta where they know how to look after VIPs. As good as the music is though, it is not what drives these venues. In my search for a music led club with a good VIP section, a friend guided me towards THE ONE BARCELONA, in the beautiful Poble Espanyol. Apparently it used to be THE place to go in its days as Discothèque six or seven years ago. Since then, it’s had a couple of re-launches (including a very short-lived association with Penelope’s). It was closed for longer than it should have been and consequently fell off the radar and out of popularity. In the last year, it has benefited from a seven-figure refurb and a new management team. They invited me up for night hosted by the Ministry of Sound owned Hed Kandi. The club certainly looked amazing with the biggest disco ball I’ve ever seen and an incredible sound and lights system. They’ve got the VIP pretty much spot on too, with attentive, attractive staff, reasonable prices and the requisite elevated positioning. I ventured to the other side of the rope to speak to some of the clubbers, who seemed to be loving the uplifting vibe Hed Kandi is so well-known for. The thing they seemed equally happy (and surprised) about was the price of the drinks – just 5€ for a beer.
Hed Kandi Presents...
TWISTED DISCO 4 MARCH & 1 APRIL THE ONE BARCELONA TH
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Once bitten News of celebrities contracting malaria while visiting foreign climes keeps hitting the headlines, but it’s not so long ago that the disease was a major problem in Spain. By Nick Lloyd.
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and the increase in the human population all helped it along. New strands of resistant parasites would have been brought by the waves of invadors who swept across the Iberian Peninsula. We know for example that malaria followed Hannibal in his wake. By the Middle Ages, the nobility had gained control of the best wetlands, where they could hunt and earn lucrative profits by exploiting their natural resources (everything from rice cultivation to leech farming). However, these advantages were offset by the fear of marshes as breeding grounds of plagues and incurable fevers. Until the connection between malaria and mosquitoes was understood in the late 1800s, the disease was thought to be borne by foul air (mal aria in Latin) emanating from such damp places. Such was the dread of these wetlands that a royal decree was passed in 11th-century Valencia sentencing any farmer to death who planted rice too close to villages and towns. Indeed, some marshes such as Doñana in Andalucia, today one of Europe’s largest remaining wetlands, were precisely saved in part due to the presence of malarial mosquitoes. The marshes of Catalunya were also afflicted and there was much opposition to rice farming due to its connection with the disease. A popular
19th-century saying in L’Empordà warned against marriage to rice farmers, particularly those from the village of Viladamat in the heart of the Aiguamolls wetlands, in the far northeast of Catalunya, which was particularly afflicted: Mothers who have daughters; if you do not love them enough, marry them to Albons or Bellcaire; and if you want them dead soon, marry them to Viladamat. * From the same period there is also this tragic tale from an area that is now a popular summer playground for Barcelona’s rich: “In 1835, when the fevers possessed the region and extended mourning everywhere, Creixença Vilà, after the death of her husband, her children, and realising that the Governor of Girona was not listening to the pleas of the villages afflicted by the epidemic, began a vigorous protest against the rice crop. The inhabitants of Albons, Bellcaire and Torroella de Montgrí met in the square of the last village and decided to drain the land and thus destroy the crop. That way, the epidemic would end in all the rice areas of the Empordà.” * But rice was big money and farming continued more or less unabated, despite the dangers. In the Delta del Ebro, where most of our paella rice comes from today, there were 12,000 cases of malaria in 1918 alone. Clearly
* These quotes were collected by Francis Barrett
ome years ago, I was lucky enough to spend a month’s holiday in Botswana. As I planned to explore the swamps in the north of the country, I took the advice of the doctor at the Clínica de Malalties Tropicals in Drassanes and dosed myself on the prescribed cocktail of anti-malarial drugs. All part of the price for visiting exotic lands. However, a hundred years ago, a tourist visiting many European cities might well have been given the same recommendation had such treatments existed, for malaria was rife in the Old Continent. In Barcelona, paludisme, as it’s called in Catalan, was considered the most pressing public health problem at the start of the 20th century. Indeed, one could imagine a hypothetical Lonely Planet Guide to Barcelona published, say, in 1903 warning visitors not only about the ongoing battle between anarchist hitmen, police shoot-to-kill squads and hired thugs, but also to take doxycycline and not to dream of sleeping without a mosquito net, particularly in the old city. It is thought that malaria spread north from its ancestral African enclaves with the Neolithic revolution between 8,000 and 10,000 BCE. Sedentary village life, land clearance, irrigation
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* These quotes were collected by Francis Barrett
Lit. J. Palacios: 1920. Propaganda poster regarding the fight against malaria
“Spain was declared malaria-free in 1964, just as mass tourism began.”
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this had a huge economic effect, particularly as the people who were most affected were of working age who had become infected while toiling in the fields. Closer to Barcelona, the towns in and around the Delta del Llobregat such as El Prat and Castelldefels also felt the scourge of ague, the former being known in the 19th century as el Poble de les Febres (the Village of Fevers). Being a major source of infection, its proximity to the Catalan capital was of serious concern to the authorities. In Barcelona itself, there was an outbreak in the 1880s as the city ran out of money to finish the Eixample, as is described by Robert Hughes in his book Barcelona. As speculation sent prices sky high, thousands of investors went bust when the bubble burst and hundreds of plots were left bare for a decade. Moreover, many of the buildings that were constructed at the time did not have adequate sewers installed. Stagnant waters built up, a ripe environ for mosquito larvae. The city was hit by a second epidemic in 1898, this time imported from Cuba. Spain had been defeated there by the United States and lost its colony, the last jewel in its empire. Thousands of troops were dumped on the quays of Barcelona, many of whom were infected with the disease, and after being bitten by local mosquitoes, these then propagated it around the city. At the turn of the 20th century, malaria was considered the biggest single health risk by the authorities, and an estimated 800,000 people had malaria in Spain, with some 4,000 dying every year. The disease was fought with a battery of measures aimed at breaking the circle between the parasite, the mosquito and the human: medicine, drainage of wetlands, individual protection measures such as mosquito nets, improved housing and the introduction of the mosquitofish, incidentally probably now the most widespread freshwater fish in the world, a voracious devourer of mosquito larvae. There was a huge improvement in the early 20th century but the Civil War meant a temporary halt to malaria’s final retreat—four years after it finished, in 1943, a final serious outbreak hit Spain with 400,000 people affected and 1,250 deaths—but by the end of the Forties, malaria had been effectively controlled and restricted to a few pockets, with the use of DDT from 1947 onwards
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Marshlands in the Delta del Llobregat, an area that was once a hotbed for malaria. Photo by Lucy Brzoska.
delivering the coup de grâce. Spain was finally declared malaria-free in 1964, just in time for the arrival of mass tourism, which certainly would not have taken off had it not been for the parasite’s prior eradication. It also coincided nicely with the UN no longer classifying Spain as a Third World country. The last cases in Spain were in El Prat de Llobregat in 1961, seven years before the last native Western European malaria disappeared from cold and rich Holland. In what one hopes is a footnote to the history of the disease here, in August 2010 a man from Huesca mysteriously caught malaria after being bitten by a mosquito somewhere in Aragon, making it the first indigenous case in Spain in the last 50 years. Experts are still unsure of the chain of infection. However, so-called ‘imported’ as opposed to indigenous
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malaria is very much on the rise, with some 500 cases a year in Spain, brought by migrants and returning tourists. Should we fear a return of malaria? Some articles in the press make the connection between global warming and the disease. But malaria was rife in Europe at a time when the temperature was colder than it is today. As development workers know, malaria is eradicated by means of progress, as it was in Spain, not by a change in the temperature. Malaria could indeed return to Europe, but the real trigger would be a massive economic meltdown rather than climate change, which may only make matters worse. Nick Lloyd leads Civil War tours in Barcelona with the Centre d’Estudis de Montjuïc and runs the website www.iberianatura.com
2/22/11 11:35:04 AM
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26 M FIVE
Places to have brunch in Barcelona.
By Dylan Clive. PICNIC. Various cultures collide on your plate—American, Chilean and Italian roots blend with Catalan influences to offer a lovely mix of inspired platters. Brunch here contains all the classics with a range of pancakes, eggs (and is one of few places in Barcelona to do a proper hollandaise sauce), sandwiches and burgers. Located in the Born, the relaxed environment and selection of cocktails mean weekend brunch never has to end. Comerç 1 Tel. 93 511 6661 Open: Mon to Fri—1-4.30pm and 8pm-2am; Sat and Sun—12-5pm Pancakes with nuts, syrup and caramelised banana €5.50 www.picnic-restaurant.com
CORNELIA. Take a seat at ‘The Daily Picnic Store’ any day of the week and let the sweet bakery scents whet your appetite; for brunch, head there on Sunday mornings. The gourmet style of Cornelia attracts a trendy, youthful crowd and there is a rather suave, upmarket seating area complete with wine-bottle wall display; leather bar stools provide a more Fifties’ perch. You can also browse the delicatessen area: perfect gift shopping for ‘foodies’. Valencia 225 Tel. 93 272 3956 Open: Daily 8am-1am www.corneliaandco.com
Discover more places for brunch on our website: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/brunch
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MILK. Grab the paper and make yourself at home. The interior is as carefully thought out as the menu, creating a retro and sophisticated feel for your brunch experience. Chandeliers add a touch of class and the hand-made sofas with floral cushions provide an ideal spot for some mid-morning grazing. From a simple smoothie to the Triple Whammy Breakfast Burger to Salmon Eggs Benedict, there is something for every appetite. Gignàs 21 Tel. 93 268 0922 Open: Thurs to Sun—10am-4pm Brunch menu: €7.25-€10.25 www.milkbarcelona.com
MEATPACKING BISTRO. The environmentalist’s choice. The menu is full of organically-produced goods, local meat without additives and nutritious but tasty dishes. It is a New York kitchen in the heart of Barcelona, eager to spread the brunch tradition every Sunday from 11am. The Meatpacking Burger is reputed to be a favourite amongst diners and, along with the vintage décor, perfectly captures the essence of the Big Apple. Travessera de Gràcia 50-52 Tel. 93 200 8908 Open: Mon to Wed—9am-12.30pm; Thurs to Sat—9am-3am; Sun—11am-5pm Meatpacking Burger: €12 www.meatpackingbistro.com
FEDERAL. Arguably the hipster option for your weekend midday feast, this Sant Antoni café has become an overnight success. With queues regularly forming on their doorstep, you might have a bit of a wait but with Australian-style grub (the owners are from Oz and the eponymous Federal is a down-under town), too-beautifulto-eat cupcakes and scrumptious sandwiches, you probably won’t mind the wait. Parlament 39 Tel. 93 187 3607 Open: Tue to Thurs—8am-10pm; Fri to Sat—8am-1am; Sun—9am-5.30pm Brunch menu: €10-€20 www.federalcafe.es
Next month: where to find great views of the city
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On COPYRIGHT © 2009 DARENOTE LTD. All rights reserved Photographer: William Baker
JOAN AS POLICE WOMAN P. 30 LES TRES GERMANES P. 31 AKRAM KHAN P. 33 CONSTRUIR LA REVOLUCIÓN P. 34
Pictured: Kylie ‘Aphrodite - Les Folies Tour’ Page 33.
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We trawl through the month’s cultural events and pick our favourites
In a bid to revive a somewhat dying art, TOT Festival devotes itself to the world of puppeteering. Acts from Iran, Israel and Belgium join forces with Spanish companies to perform modern-day interpretations of classics such as Don Quixote and The Little Prince. Plus there’s street shows and nighttime events. Something for even the most bugged-out of the Nintendo DS generation.
TOT Festival Poble Espanyol www.poble-espanyol.com
Sly Johnson has reinvented himself of late and come out with 74, a soul-infused solo offering that’s a world away from his past as a beat boxer. To win one of the three tickets to his concert we’ve got to give away, just tell us what group he used to lend his vocals to. Email email@example.com by March 3rd.
It would seem that Joan Wasser has turned a corner, both emotionally and artistically. Her third album, On The Deep Field, sees her abandon her melancholic tendencies and replace them with funk and sensual soul. A decidedly happier album from a happier woman.
Joan as Police Woman
ON Contributors: Dylan Clive, Richard Ewing, Alx Philips, Will Shank, Lucy Wright, Natasha Young,
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the gigs Monotonix: BeCool, 1st
Caitlin Rose: Sidecar, 2nd
And One: Bikini, 4th
My Chemical Romance: Sant Jordi Club, 5th
The Chemistry Set: Razzmatazz, 11th
Rise Against: Razzmatazz, 12th
Les Tres Germanes
Chekhov isn’t for everyone. While some will say his knack for symbolism and pathos make him one of the greatest ever dramatists, others find watching his plays a bit like
Keren Ann: Bikini, 15th
White Lies: Apolo, 15th
sitting through a dreary midweek episode of Eastenders: not much happens and everyone is miserable. Les Tres Germanes, or The Three Sisters, was the first of Chekhov’s works to be
Katie Melua: L’auditori, 16th
written specifically for Stanislavski’s esteemed Moscow Arts Theatre in 1900; its lack of action and inexpressive characters delighted audiences but shocked conservative
Miyavi: Apolo, 16th
critics. A stark portrayal of the decline of Russia’s privileged upper-class and a family’s frustration, the play, with its strong female leads, has been a constant presence on theatre studies’ courses for decades.
Black Label Society: Razzmatazz, 19th
Chekhov’s initial inspiration for the work is said to have been the life story of England’s Brontë sisters who lived in wealthy isolation on the North Yorkshire Moors with their philandering and half-cut older brother.
Sweater: Razzmatazz, 25th
Here the action takes place in a humdrum, provincial backwater in Russia. The three Prozorov sisters—Olga, Masha and Irina—are desperate to get back to the thrills and refinement of their beloved Moscow but duty, circumstance and the misadventures of
Camila: Razzmatazz, 26th
their brother seem set to prevent it. The themes of alienation, boredom and the common stresses of life run deep in this
Swan Fyahbwoy: Apolo, 26th
four-act play. As the pensive Lieutenant Colonel Vershinin puts it, “Mankind is looking for something, and will certainly find it—oh, if it only happened more quickly.” It is this, the characters’ constant search for meaning in the modern world, which has made
Roger Waters: Palau Sant Jordi, 30th
Chekhov’s play so enduring, and so enticing to contemporary directors. English-language theatre has been thin on the ground of late in Barcelona, but this Catalan production at the Teatre Lluire on Montjuïc comes with English and Castilian
Vivian Girls: Sala KGB, 30th
subtitles on Thursday and Saturday nights from March 17th. Expect a modern twist or two, as, for this world premiere, director Carlota Subirós plans to focus not on what this literary classic meant back in 20th-century Russia, but how the siblings’ hopes of
No Age: Bikini, 31st
change are just as relevant in these troubled times.--NY
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With the industry stuffed with Justin Bieber types, you can imagine it must be hard for the more serious-minded music hack to not go overboard with the hyperbole when a genuine talent comes along. But while this is exciting for the journo it can be a dangerous thing for the band with many a much-hyped name falling by the wayside when the next hottest group arrives fresh from some makeshift studio in Hackney. However, with some acts you hope they pull through and make it through the heady clouds of promotional puff; something that more than a few people are hoping will be the case with Chew Lips. Off the back of just two singles, accolades began to come from the likes of Steve Lamacq who’d heard their demo tape and tipped them for greatness in 2009; and after just five gigs, they had management teams fighting to sign them when they still didn’t have that much to offer. But despite not having musical maturity, they did have front woman Tigs; with her cropped
Asian Dub Foundation
blonde hair and midriff tops, shy and retiring isn’t really in her repertoire. It’s not all style over substance; her voice carries over the music in such a commanding way that any comparison to the likes of La Roux don’t ring true. Perhaps aware of the danger of being a buzz band and wary of how early hype can be a millstone around a group’s necks, Chew Lips sat back, cleaned up their sound and came out with something deserving of all the praise. The spare beats of previous releases ‘Salt Air’ and ‘Solo’ still reign but it’s a little less trashy, more unique, but no less good for a party. Track ‘Karen’ just makes you want to be with friends on a hot sunny day whilst ‘Playing Together’ is a stomper with Tigs’ voice leading the way over synthy guitars, provided by multi-instrumentalists James Watkins and Will Sanderson. It’s a formula that works—good solid melodies layered over bleepy beats. Let’s just hope enough music fans think so and not just the fair-weather music press.--KM
Long before East is East made Asian culture ‘cool’, when Slumdog Millionaire was a mere twinkle in Danny Boyle’s eye, London outfit Asian Dub Foundation were busy honing their craft, fusing traditional Asian instruments with drum and bass beats into a palatable package. Their debut album failed to set the charts alight, and save for an underground following, the group was largely ignored. Fast forward 15 years via a Mercury Prize nomination and tours with the Beastie Boys and Primal Scream, and ADF are a critically-acclaimed collective with 12 albums under their belt. As latest album A History Of Now testifies, frontman Chandrasonic and the rest of the ADF crew don’t stray much from the sound they crafted over a decade ago, but that’s largely because they don’t need to. ADF’s signature sound is a rich mix of dubstep, drum and bass, reggae, punk rock and traditional Indian music; think sitars and the like. Toe-tapping guaranteed. Never ones to shy away from controversy, many of the band’s lyrics are politically charged, with their songs often covering social injustices, racism and the struggles facing ethnic minorities. Whether intentional or not, ADF helped propel Indian and Pakistani music into the mainstream way before the Pussycat Dolls and Punjabi MC started out. And despite being around for almost 20 years, they still sound fresh and vital. Winter is firmly behind us, spring is in the air and summer is on the horizon. Seems like the perfect time to check out a group this vibrant, positive and energetic.--LW For more live events, visit our website: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
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Mercat de les Flors
British choreographer Akram Khan’s latest dramatic contemporary dance
While Khan’s dance pieces are contemplative and abstract in theory, they
piece, Vertical Road portrays a personal journey to faith as a graceful but
are power-driven and theatrical in practice. Though he does not dance in
violent experience. Egyptian dancer Salah El Brogy is the ‘traveller’ placed in a
Vertical Road, the choreographer channels the focus and energy of kathak
series of spectacular confrontations with warrior gods, beautiful and terrifying,
into it, winding in the more fluid contemporary dance “like a jazz musician”.
that represent his inner conflict of emotions.
The result is highly-controlled creativity, martial art-like. Once again he works
Khan’s parents were born in East Pakistan (now Bangladesh) and he trained from a young age in kathak, a classical north Indian dance form, in which pro-
with British composer Nitin Sawhney who blends Indian music with jazz and
two forms. Critically acclaimed as a solo dancer, he set up his own company
electronica. As with previous works Ma (2004) and Zero Degrees (2005), both performed at the Mercat to standing ovations, Khan brings together dancers from different countries and with different forms of training. His aim is not fusion but “confusion” through this juxtaposition of dancers. Most of the eight dancers in Vertical Road, chosen specifically for the piece, come from Asia, Europe
10 years ago.
and the Middle East; Catalan Eulàlia Ayguadé is among them.--AP
tagonists take on the roles of mythological characters to enact moral stories. Mathematically precise and physically demanding, steps get progressively faster as they are spurred on by rhythmic chanting. Khan studied contemporary dance at university where he developed his own style that collated the
Palau Sant Jordi
What do Kylie Minogue and Queen Elizabeth II have in common? It’s not the title of ‘most played female artist on UK radio’, nor is it the accolade of having nearly 50 international chart hits. The correct answer is that they hold the prestigious distinction of having the most waxworks on display at Madame Tussauds in London—her Majesty having five models to Kylie’s four. Away from waxwork trivia, you must have realised by now that the Australian poppet is coming to Barcelona. This time she will be arriving as part of her Aphrodite tour, spreading more Kylie love and creating yet another generation of hysterical fans. See, it’s easy to forget that Miss Minogue has been entertaining audiences since the late Seventies. Some of you might even remember her days as Charlene from Neighbours and her romance with Jason Donovan. They were the hottest couple at the time but my, do times change. Kylie now has an OBE to go with 11 studio albums and is the only female artist
Win a double pass for Kylie! To win just tell us, what Catalan town is her model boyfriend from? Email readers@ barcelona-metropolitan.com. Deadline March 9th.
COPYRIGHT © 2009 DARENOTE LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PHOTOGRAPHER GREGG DEGUIRE
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to achieve UK number one albums in four consecutive decades. Jason can regularly be seen on Iceland food adverts. Love will be in the air when the Aphrodite tour touches down at Palau Sant Jordi but then what else would you expect from the 21st-century equivalent of the Greek goddess of beauty and sexuality? Kylie’s latest album material will be played alongside old classics for an evening of electropop ecstacy; certainly one for all the lovers.--DC
2/23/11 2:22:15 PM
Photo by Alissa Colombo
Construir la Revolución CaixaForum. Until April 17th
The Walking Gallery. March 6th, midday. Plaça Catalunya
To anyone familiar with the concrete bunker-like structures that came to
Liverpool native Ashwan arrived in Barcelona in 2009 having studied fine
be associated with Soviet architecture before the fall of the Berlin Wall, the
art in the UK and America. His paintings are inspired by graffiti and hip-hop
idea of visiting a museum exhibition devoted to the genre might be greeted
music, with the DJ’s creative projects spanning the full artistic sphere. He
with a big yawn. But the surprise at CaixaForum is that in the early days
will showcase his talents on Barcelona’s streets in the Walking Gallery on
of Communist Russia some of the world’s finest Modernist architects were
March 6th, when a group of artists display their work in the city’s plazas
at work bringing a kind of geometric grace to Russian cities, as part of an
effort to sell the new ideology to the people of Russia, and by extension, to the rest of the world. The civil war touched off with the Bolshevik revolution of 1917 which left
“I’ve always painted for myself and created art through graffiti. I didn’t take art at school but I sketched a lot and one day my physics teacher threw my book at me and said: “Take that to the art teacher.” I completed
the country impoverished and seeking to re-identify itself. Lenin’s political
the art ‘O’ level in six months and studied art at college and university,
machine coupled both agricultural and urban planning with the best archi-
while working as a DJ at night.
tectural talents available. The resulting examples of built culture in Russia were sometimes astonishing, when entrusted to the able hands of such architecture stars as Le Corbusier of Paris and Erich Mendelsohn of Berlin.
“I visited Barcelona for the first time in 1991. I was on a college trip and promised myself I would return here to live. “I’ll paint anything; vinyl (records) and skateboards are icons that associ-
It also allowed anonymous architects to create modest work spaces, such
ate themselves with certain sub-cultures. They help me have a dialogue
as bakeries of unsurpassed geometric beauty for the encouragement of
with a specific audience.
women in the workforce. And while strict formal guidelines were enforced,
“My inspiration comes from hip-hop and graffiti culture. The music,
the occasional eccentric artist such as Konstantin Melnikov would slip
dance and visuals are the driving force that keeps me doing what I do. I
through the official cracks; his cylindrical Moscow house and studio (1927-
want my work to inspire people the way I’ve been inspired.
31), perforated by hexagonal windows, is a highlight of the exhibition. Many of the buildings are currently in an advanced state of decay, and
“I’ve an incredible view from my studio as it overlooks Hospital de Sant Pau. I can see the whole hospital and its amazing mosaics and roof tiles.
their condition has been captured by photographer Richard Pare. His lus-
At first, this overpowered my painting as lots of different colours were
cious architectural photographs, which ring the large gallery, were taken
coming out and I didn’t know why. Then I saw all the colours on my paint-
primarily during the Nineties; in one of them, the interior of Lenin’s Tomb
ings and the view from the window; they were the same.
in Red Square (the third structure built by Aleksei Shchusev to house the
“The Walking Gallery is the brainchild of local artist José Puig. He be-
bones of the founder of Russian Communism) appears to glow like an ap-
lieves owning art is not generally a part of Catalan culture and the gallery
propriately red altar. The photographs and building plans are complemented by fine examples of Russian Constructivist art from the Costaki Collection in Thessalonica, Greece, suspended by taut wires in the central space of one of CaixaForum’s largest galleries. In these drawings and paintings by such Avant-garde masters as El Lissitzky, Malevich and Popova, architecture and art appear as one.--WS
is a way of breaking down some of the barriers between the public and the galleries. I’ll be displaying my graffiti record covers and playing remixed music from the vinyl to create attention and have some fun. “The event is about taking art to the people during everyday life. There are 15 to 20 of us involved and we are all really driven. There will be lots of interesting art on display.”--RE
Find FULL DETAILS OF current exhibitions on our website WWW.barcelona-metropolitan.com
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2/23/11 2:24:15 PM
IH BCN Metropolitan Advert Febrero 2010.pdf
quick picks WHERE LANGUAGES COME ALIVE WHERE LANGUAGES COME ALIVE
LANGUAGE LEARNING & TEACHER TRAINING
Garry Winogrand. Foto Colectania. Until June 4th. colectania.es Virgen de Ger. Segunda mitad del siglo XII. Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. Foto: Fernando Maquieira
L’esplendor del romànic. MNAC. Until May 15th. mnac.es
Olaf Pla Gracia. Galeria H2O. Until March 26th. h2o.es
INTERNATIONAL HOUSE THIS WAY
TEACHER TRAINING COURSES CELTA, CELTYL, CELTYL EXTENSION, DELTA, BUSINESS, DOSs, TRAINERS, MANAGERS, TRANSLATORS, YOUNG LEARNERS
SPANISH LANGUAGE COURSES INTENSIVE & EXTENSIVE, BUSINESS, DELE PREPARATION, INDIVIDUAL TUITION. All ages and levels.
WIDE RANGE OF TEACHER TRAINING AND SPANISH COURSES ALSO AVAILABLE ON-LINE ALSO: ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, CHINESE COURSES, STUDY ABROAD PROGRAMMES & TRANSLATION SERVICES
27 Obras. 18 Autores. Fundació Suñol. Until December 31st. fundaciosunol.org
34-35 ARTS.indd 53
C/Trafalgar 14, 08010 Barcelona. Spain 93 268 45 11 firstname.lastname@example.org www.ihes.com
2/23/11 2:24:39 PM
Missing ingredient Despite the input of a Michelinstarred chef, Loidi’s menu needs more inspiration. By Tara Stevens. Photo by Tracy Gilbert.
otel restaurants have come a long way since the rather grisly days of stuffy dining rooms staffed by ancient waiters serving school-canteen-style food. These days they are designed by hot-shot young architects, staffed by models and generally overseen by a Michelin-starred über chef. It is odd then that I had felt such reluctance to go to Loidi. Located in the Hotel Condes de Barcelona and overseen by the great Basque chef Martín Berasategui who boasts three stars for his self-named restaurant just outside of San Sebastian, you would think that Loidi would promise pretty special stuff. Yet since opening a couple of years back, reports have been largely uninspiring. From the outside it looks like a smartish hotel restaurant. Inside it has the feel of corporate-breakfast-room-in-a-smart-hotel-with-thelights-dimmed, which is exactly what it is. That said, when I tried to book for a Thursday night it was full, and I had to call a couple of days ahead to get in on a Saturday night, so something is definitely working. The menu is typical of the bistronomía genre: robust and reasonable, offering Berasategui’s six-course taster option for €47 (€62 with wines) and Loidi’s four-courser for €39. They consist of more or less the same things, so we went for Loidi’s and managed to cover most of the options by choosing different dishes and sharing. We drank a bottle of Predicador from La Rioja, a jubilant red with the nifty ‘top hat’ label made by the enigmatic Benjamín Romeo, which was a treat at €36 but worth it. I very much enjoyed milhojas de patata with Perol sausage and a poached egg, but who wouldn’t? The gooey layers of potato providing a sticky-crisp-edged raft for the earthy sausage, the runny yolk a naturally silky lubricant for what could otherwise have been quite claggy. I also liked the Idiazábal soup—a beech- or cherry-smoked cheese from the País Vasco—dotted with pimentón oil and a slab of hearty pancetta. Both were solid, satisfying dishes and I appreciated the fact the cheese soup provided something you don’t often see on Barcelona menus. Baby squid stuffed with itself and cooked in thick black ink was merely dull. The tuna belly on artichoke purée with a braised endive salad a shade more exciting, though not quite the fireworks I would have expected from Berasategui. It didn’t help that one waitress kept wanting to remove our dishes before we were finished and once she’d ambled away another would appear wanting to do the same thing, which spoiled the flow somewhat. The last of the savoury courses consisted of an extremely rare solomillo of Iberian pork with a tangy fennel and apple marmalade and musky spears of salsify giving a hint of the kind of inspired, new-bistro combinations this place should be generating. Unfortunately, a bowl of beef fricandó looked like processed baby food: lukewarm and grey.
LOIDI—Mallorca 259; tel. 93 492 9292 Open: Mon to Sun, 1-3.30pm, 8-11pm. Closed Sunday evening Tasting menus: €39-€47, not including wine Tara’s rating: ✪✪✪✪✪ We weren’t wildly excited by the sound of the puddings either, though this was no fault of the cooking, merely menu planning. After all this ribsticking nourishment you need something light and frivolous to finish, but the choices were for a chocolate brownie on an Earl Grey infusion, cuajada of yogurt with passionfruit sorbet and a bizcocho borracho (cake drenched in booze) with orange marmalade and cocoa ice-cream. Nothing wrong with any of them, they just didn’t speak to us. When the maître d’ asked us if we’d not enjoyed our desserts I thought he might cry, so we said we were full. Loidi then, it’s not a bad deal but it lacks something. Nothing was really warm enough, or thrilling enough to inspire a return, yet nothing was really truly bad either. I suppose it just does what it says on the tin.
Read the food and drink blog on our website for the latest gourmet news and reviews: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
recipe By Tara Stevens
rista is a popular Tuscan dish of roast pork rubbed in chopped rosemary and garlic. It evokes the scent of an early spring when cooking and makes an impressive party dish for a lazy Sunday lunch, especially since all you really have to do is throw it in the oven and forget about it. In this version I added juniper (enebro) berries that I bought on a recent visit to the Santa Catalina market in Palma de Mallorca, where they are particularly good. You can easily get them in the Boqueria and some supermarkets or, if you felt so inclined, they can be foraged in the Collserolla hills, or along the cliffs between Sitges and Vilanova. Juniper berries are small, dark, squishy berries that look like withered blackcurrants and grow on a viciously spiky shrub. They also have a distinctive gin aroma, so you can’t really miss them.
Ingredients (serves six) • 2-2.5 kgs skin-on pork loin or belly (look for a cut that has some fat) for roasting • 4 tbsp finely-chopped fresh rosemary • 2 tbsp juniper berries, pounded to a paste in a pestle and mortar • 5 cloves garlic, pounded to a paste in a pestle and mortar • 1 tsp sea salt • 1 tsp black pepper, ground • Enough olive oil to make a loose paste from all the herbs and seasonings Method Combine the marinade ingredients in a bowl, then rub into the entire pork joint and leave overnight in the fridge. The next day, preheat the oven to 250ºC and cook the pork for 25-30 minutes so the skin starts to crisp and crackle. Turn the heat down to 200ºC and cook for another hour, then transfer from the oven to a serving platter and leave to rest loosely covered in tin foil for 15-20 minutes before carving. Serve with olive oil mashed potatoes, roasted apples, buttered Savoy cabbage and a gravy made from the pan juices. Or alternatively, as a cold cut for lunches or picnics.
Tara Stevens eats out with Sophie Ruggles, author of Suddenly Cooking
ophie Ruggles—the Australian author of a cookbook for ‘the kitchen phobic’ titled Suddenly Cooking—is a woman on a mission. In many ways, she reminds me of a much slenderer, prettier, female equivalent of Jamie Oliver and when we meet for lunch at her restaurant of choice, Can Ramonet in Barceloneta, she’s buzzing with excitement for the new books she has in mind. Ten of them in total, though she’s not decided which will come first yet. “A light bulb goes on,” she tells me, “and then I’m off.” What’s the story behind Suddenly Cooking? I believe that if you go through life only mildly satisfied with what you are eating, you’re only living half a life. So it’s become my mission to help the average Joe become more capable in the kitchen. When my partner’s mother died, her husband was adrift. He had no idea how to cook, but he didn’t know how to shop either. I taught him the basics: how to set up his kitchen, the difference between basmati and risotto rice, how to put together simple but varied meals, and that was really my inspiration. It snowballed from there as various newly-divorced friends and other lost souls contacted me for help. As cooks and foodies, we assume a lot of knowledge like what blanching is or what paprika looks like or even how to chop an onion, but a lot of people don’t know this stuff. I wrote it because I truly believe it is needed. Why did you choose Can Ramonet for lunch today? I try not to intellectualise food too much. For me it’s all about pleasure and any restaurant that has been around since 1763 must be doing something right. They have supremely fresh fish and seafood (all of it lined up on banks of ice when you enter), a gorgeous terrace and they never rush you. Sobremesa is my favourite part of the meal and they understand that here. Most of all I love their pescado a la sal. It’s not something I ever do at home so I save it for special outings. Any other top tips for eating in Barcelona? I find the menú del día difficult. It can be sublime or very average so the trick is finding the middle ground. A favourite is Golliard (Progrés 6, Gràcia, 93 207 3175, menú €11.50). They serve Catalan classics with a modern spin and cook extremely well. You can’t book, so get there
38 Lunch with PDF.indd 42
around 2.30pm after the first round of diners so you can relax. Can Ramonet Maquinista 17, Barceloneta. Tel. 93 319 3064, www.elnouramonet.com. Open daily, noon to midnight. Closed January 17th to February 3rd, and December 24th and 25th for holidays. Around €60 per head for three courses including wine.
Suddenly Cooking (Casera Publications) costs £32 and is available from amazon.co.uk. Check www.suddenlycooking.com for additional tips, recipes and Sophie’s blog.
2/22/11 11:51:28 AM
main pages - Mar11 .indd 2
2/21/11 2:55:10 PM
NEFW &D IN
Bar Michael’s tavern 4Sant andreu Located off the Paseo de Fabra i Puig, this traditional pub offers a huge selection of imported bottle and draft beers from all over the world, including Hoegaarden, Franziskaner, Leffe and Pilsner Urquell. Whether you are visiting the area or live in the neighbourhood, this bar offers a warm atmosphere. They have a large section of tapas, sandwiches and burgers. There is also a fixed menu which includes drinks.
For more in food&drink visit our online directory
www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking Concepción Arenal, 213 | Tel. 93 312 0358
Fabra I Puig
BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA
Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them.
Located in Port Olympic, Dreams is the perfect place to unwind and relax. From 7pm to 11pm enjoy the luxurious outdoor covered lounge, where you can enjoy bottle service with brands such as Grey Goose Vodka as well as all your favourite cocktails, beers and hookah pipes. If you’re a sports fan, make use of their wide-screen TV, showing European football and all the action from the NFL and the NBA. From 11pm join the go-go dancers as they perform to the best house, R&B and Latino music.
They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels - you’ll not come away disappointed.
C/Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I L6 and L7 Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I email@example.com Mon-Fri 8am-4pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-4pm and 6pm-10.30pm
Moll de Mestral 6-7, Port Olimpic I
L4 Ciutadella-Vila Olímpica
Bar - Live Music Margarita Blue 4BARRI GÒTIC Located in the heart of old Barcelona, Margarita Blue has become a classic in the city’s bar scene. Delight in the dishes from the ‘‘Mexiterranean” kitchen, such as a variety of tacos, amazing guacamole, fresh carpaccio and tomates verdes fritos or take pleasure in a drink or cocktail whilst appreciating new music and spectacular shows that alternate between theatre and performance art.
C/Josep Anselm Clave 6 | Drassanes Tel. 93 412 5489 | www.margaritablue.com | Mon-Fri 1.30pm-4pm, 8pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun 6pm-2.30am | RV
Nit Borbo4barceloneta A fantastic bar located on Passeig de Borbó heading down towards the beach with lots of comfortable seating inside ideal for groups of friends. You can also relax with your favourite cocktails on the terrace which has great views of Port Vell.
Passeig de Borbó, 51 I
Becool4Sarrià BeCool offers a great mix of Electronic, Indie & Rock music from Thursday to Saturday with a regular line up of live concerts by local & international artists. Main Room: Electro & Techno. Sala Redrum: Indie Electro Rock.
Joan Llongueras, 5 I
L5 Hospital clinic I Tel. 93 362 0413
FOOD & DRINK 41 Café – Ice Cream Shop cara bela4barceloneta
ART I SA4BARRI GÒTIC
Cara Bela has one of the sunniest terraces on Port Vell with fantastic views of the Barcelona head sculpture by Roy Lichtenstein. They offer great sandwiches and tapas as well as freshly squeezed fruit juices and smoothies.
Pas de Soto Muralla, 3 I
Natural and organic delicatessen, café and ice cream shop. • Fantastic selection of the most typical Catalan products, made in the most traditional and natural way. • Perfect as a treat for yourself, or a gift for a loved one. • Choose from a selection of different crêpes, sandwiches, cakes and natural ice cream for a truly original experience.
Barceloneta I Tel. 697 152 215 I Mon-Sun 10am-2am
ANDú4JAUME 1 Andú offers an escape from Barcelona’s mayhem, without sacrificing the fun. The cool music and relaxed vibe draws a diverse and bohemian crowd making it a warm and spirited bar full of animated locals enjoying a great wine list and classic Spanish tapas, including fantastic Catalan cheeses and hams. C/ del Correo Viejo I Mon-Sun 6pm-2.30am
C/Colom 2 (Plaça Real) | Liceu | Tel. 93 186 3623 www.artisa.es | Every day 10am-10pm
Jaume 1 I Tel. 64 655 3930
Catalan GRAN PARIS 4EIXAMPLE E Discover the serene setting of Restaurant Gran Paris where the chefs invite you to sample luxurious Catalan cuisine. From the traditional, simple dish of baclao (Catalan cod) to the more complex, there is more than enough choice to satisfy your taste buds for the Mediterranean. The three separate rooms allow for a comfortable ambience suitable both for lavish meetings or family gatherings. Open 7 days a week, 365 days a year. C/ Muntaner 182 I 08036 Barcelona Hospital Clínic, FGC Provença Tel. 93 363 5252 / 93 363 5253 I Fax. 93 321 3479 firstname.lastname@example.org I www.granparis.com Every day 1pm-3.30pm and 8.30pm-11.30pm
ou can les so y Addis Abeba 4sants t ti b u s h drop wit e k h c t a b m o a r This fantastic restaurant offers d as music f screene V.O.s Cinebar4SARRIÀ & EIXAMPLE wholesome food served in the selected y ll u f e r traditional Ethiopian way. Importing d the ca l y u jo o n c e fresh ingredients and using top-quality u alsoBogart here in o y Ever wished you could share a cocktail with Audrey Hepburn and Humphrey d e . local meat, the food is prepared with shcan! Cinebar brings the golden s ixties l i S wiyou a e r now Barcelona? Well age of cinema back to Barcelona t h t e k o v c classics to French an exciting range of over 25 herbs and es tWave coHollywood a hirtiNew n T with original version screenings ofe everything from o l spices creating an incredible range of c r a B e and Italian neo-realism. While you’re there, enjoy a ‘cine sandwich’ made from a selection d r e a o proper Italian coffee or, of tastes and flavours. Their combination n r ich’ m shaarmovie-themed salad, fresh u w d b of rustic breads, juices, smoothies, n a p s plates offer an excellent way for groups He ine ‘c a y course, a cocktail. Audrey jo med to try a variety of dishes to give you re, en . e e h n h t t a c e ie v ’r with o ou the true taste of Ethiopia. If you’re a you ads, a m While y t? Now r evegetarian, you’ll love the huge selection stic bre e u a r ﬀ g f o o c o n n B lia of dishes on offer too. rey selectio oper Ita from a hies, pr Humph t o o m s , ona is a h juices za Card lad, fres la a s P in R . Plaça Cardona 4 | Gràcia EBA re’s cocktail ned CIN Carrer Paris 200 | opDiagonal s is, the ourse, a w c ly| Opene8am-3am e f w n C/Vallespir 44 I Sants Estacio I Tel. 93 409 4037 o e d n r, o o Tel. 93 002 2300 e Th e go Mon-Fri 8pm-12am, Sat 2pm-4pm, 8pm-12am / s and th C n h , fa s it t w n lm ( for ﬁ our eve ris, 200 magnet French –loCatalan on for y on C/Pa ti a g c in n t e c op fe anky the per ls to sw r branch is a v r ti a s b e fe anothe Cin Barraval 4Raval PETIT PARIS 4EIXAMPLE E month. mini ﬁlm dos) this ons and n not a e ti n k c a a je r h o s G r – Located in the heart of the Raval quarter, Enric from p Lose yourself in Paris in the heart of Martini Barraval offers great ktail, Petit Paris offers a romantic er it ’s a ckMediterranean and h a t b e h a ne cocBarcelona. w m g e o a Catalan cuisine alongside a trendy atS p in . c s m f e a o oiré setting like a black and white movie. or a Ch Tastesour en age mosphere and great cocktails. . ’re after kidrestaurant the gold gs ofmenu. You can u u s o in This offers a unique twist g o y new ‘Tapas and Platillos’ n y in t e t r a e a b r h sc at the bar for a great cocktailtirred – t oking ionstop salso lo r Cinebar e with its menu, which combines both ’s s v e l r a e in H ig r. r a o h and listen to soul, ch Latin and R&B ineb French and Catalan cuisine. The house njazz, lona wit s to Fbyreresident DJs. Privateou’ll ﬁnd it at C music ssicplayed la specialities are foie gras, langoustines to Barce c y d o o rooms are available foragroups, e parties r Hollyw served with espardenyes and potatoes s m o r lm f ﬁ Every Wednesday and special ing Allevents. sm.‘After and crêpes suzette. Open 7 days a week, alihave everyth ewe r Office’ enjoy a special o e n 365 days a year. Italian d complimentary chef’s dish when ordern a e av ing a drink. Weekend Lunch Special: New W Paella Menu for 15.
C/Hospital, 104 (Rambla del Raval) Liceu / Sant Antoni | Tel. 93 329 8277 609 221 400 | Wed-Sat 7.30pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun open at 1pm for lunch | RV
rdona 4 Plaza Ca is 200 ar Carrer P
C/ París196 | Diagonal, FGC Provença Tel. 93 218 2678 Every day 1pm-3.30pm and 8.30pm-11.30pm
42 FOOD & DRINK Hungarian Delicatessen MOTI MAHAL4RAVAL
Conveniently located between the Rambla de Raval and Paral·lel, Moti Mahal offers an extensive menu of Indian cuisine, including madras and tika dishes, sheek kebabs, traditional soups breads and biryanis. A large variety of vegetarian dishes are also available. House specialities are the clay oven-cooked tandoori dishes and the tofu paneer pakora. Menu of the day is on offer Mon-Fri for 9.25. C/Sant Pau 103 | Paral.lel | Tel. 93 329 3252 | www.motimahalbcn.com Every day 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | Closed Tues Lunch | RV
Food&Drink to advertise in this section, please call 93 4514486 or email email@example.com International GUT4Gràcia Firstly there’s the food. Using only the finest quality ingredients, the kitchen specialises in Mediterranean cuisine with an international twist and plenty of options for vegetarians. Try their quinoa and tofu burgers or a sinful home-made dessert. Secondly, there’s Gut’s attention to detail and the friendly, respectful service. It’s the perfect place to have a drink and enjoy the night in good company. Try it for yourself and find out why everyone is talking about Gut.
paprika gourmet4Eixample d Paprika Gourmet, Barcelona’s first Hungarian delicatessen is a treasury of culinary experiences, the shop window a quintessence of Hungarian cuisine. It is conveniently located a block away from the Sagrada Familia. It offers a wide range of salamis, cheeses, jams, honeys and chocolates all in a warm, welcoming environment. In the morning you can have an appetising breakfast with coffee and during the day you can enjoy the delicious “tapas a la húngara” with a glass of wine. Be our guest and taste the world of Paprika Gourmet!
C/Perill, 13 I Diagonal Tel. 93 186 6360 I firstname.lastname@example.org
C/Lepant 311 | Sagrada Familia | Tel. 93 433 5709 | www.paprikagourmet.com Mon-Sat 7am-9pm Closed Sun
Indian - Hindu Govinda (VEGETARIAN) 4BARRI GÒTIC A restaurant veteran for 24 years, Govinda specialises in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. It offers a veganfriendly, non-alcoholic and authentically decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.
Pl. Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-12am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm
veg world4GRÀCIA Discover a world of sensations in a relaxed and homely atmosphere. Try vegetarian delicacies from all over the world such as delicious bread home-made in a Tandoori oven and south Indian dishes like Masala dosa and Idly. Daily continental and Indian menus, 9.50 inc. Free soup and salad buffet.
C/Bruniquer 26 | Plaça Joanic Tel. 93 210 7056 | Tues-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11.30pm
Hard Rock CafE4CIUTAT VELLA Hard Rock Cafe Barcelona offers an inspired, creative ambience with incredible rock‘n’roll memorabilia on display. Come and taste authentic American food. Their barbecue entrées slow cooked in the cafe’s hardwood smokers are delicious. Visit the bar to try a premium cocktail and check out the live music and special events on offer. Don’t forget to stop at the Rock Shop for fine, classic, cotton T-shirts or a collectable Hard Rock pin.
Plaça Catalunya 21 | Catalunya | Tel. 93 270 2305 | www.hardrock.com/barcelona | Restaurant: Sun-Thurs 12am-2am, Fri, Sat and hol eves 12am-3am | Rock Shop: Sun-Thurs 10am-1.30am, Fri, Sat and hol eves 10am-2am
FOOD & DRINK 43
Delivery thai thai4eIXAmple e
Thai Thai restaurant invites you to taste and enjoy traditional Thai food with tropical ingredients from Thailand prepared by Thai chefs. They specialise in all kinds of Thai curries. Thai Thai has created a delicious tasting menu for only 24 and a fresh menu of the day is on offer for 9.50 during the week.
Special Metropolitan offer: Buy 3 pizzas and get the 4th pizza FREE + a bottle of Lambrusco.
C. Paris, 109 I Hospital Clinic I Tel. 93 444 4737 Gran Via, 931 I Clot | Tel. 93 303 0735 C. Taxdirt, 13 I Joanic/Gracia | Tel. 93 285 41 95 www.vitalipizza.com
sushi BoX This great new sushi take-away has two locations in the city which offer free delivery for all orders over 25. They have a wide selection of Japanese cuisine including various vegetarian options. All food is freshly prepared to order in a beautiful artisan Japanese style. Impress your guests at home or in the office.
C/Diputació 91 | Urgell | Tel. 620 938 059 | www.thaithai.es España | Tel. 663 126 398 | Every day 1pm-4pm, C/Princep Jordi, 6 | 8pm-12am | RV | www.thaithaibcn.com
vegetarian aMaltea4eIXAmple e Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant where tasty and healthy meals are served in a welcoming environment. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure all ingredients are fresh and dishes are well balanced. Menu of the day 10.50, night and weekend menu 15.
C/Rosselló, 317 I Hospital Clinic C/Galileu, 246 I Les Corts I Tel. 93 116 2100 I email@example.com Tues 7.30pm-11pm I Wed-Sun 12.30pm-4pm and 7.30pm-11pm
C/Diputació 164 | Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.amalteaygovinda.com | Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-11.30pm, Closed Sun
indian - Modern shaNti4leS CoRTS
Shanti (which means peace in Sanskrit) have selected a rich and varied menu comprised of traditional dishes that offer an authentic Indian experience to even the most discerning palettes. Using classic recipes their dishes respect tradition but come with modern presentation. Try their tasting menu for only 24.90 (+IVA).
Vinda is a fantastic Mexican bar and restaurant that is famous for its amazing margaritas, daiquiris and mojitos. Located in the heart of the Gothic quarter, they offer an incredible selection of Mexican dishes and tapas that will put you in the mood for an unforgettable night out on the town. Ask the barman for cocktail recommendations!
C/Agustina Saragossa 3-5 (in front of CC L’Illa) Maria Cristina - Tram 1,2,3 L’Illa Tel. 93 252 3115 | www.shanti.es Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11.45pm Closed Sun | RV
C/ Regomir , 4 I Jaume 1 I Tel. 93 319 8956 Mon-Sun 6pm-2am I Vindabar@gmail.com
take-away PiM PaM Burger4BoRn Here quality is of the upmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises.
C/Sabateret 4 I Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 firstname.lastname@example.org I www.pimpamplats.com Every day 1pm-12am
thai thai gracia4GRACIA Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle ﬂavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 11 menu del dia is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more.
C/ Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | www.restaurante-thai-gracia.com Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV
BuNBo vietNaM4BARRI GÒTIC Satisfy your craving for fresh, healthy Vietnamese food just steps away from the Gothic cathedral. Sit under the leafy trees of the quiet terrace or inside the restaurant which is entirely decorated with bright colourful pieces straight from Saigon. Start with delicious fresh summer rolls, crispy Asian pork lettuce cups, followed by traditional Pho or Bun noodle dishes. Accompany your meal with a fresh and exotic cocktail like the sakirinha (caipirinha made with sake). The menu of the day is an affordable 10 inside and 11 on the shady terrace. The kitchen is open non-stop all day.
C/Sagristans 3 |
Urquinaona | Tel. 93 301 1378 | www.bunbovietnam.com | 1pm-1am Every day
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Beauty | Health | Wellbeing 45 Veterinarian
English Doctor Dr. Steven Joseph
Leila Catherine Onbargi, M.D.
OBSTETRICS and GYNECOLOGY
Col nº 38291
Centro Medico Teknon
BSc, MBBS, DRCOG, MRCGP, MRCPsych (London) Member of the Royal College of General Practioners U.K Member of the Royal College of Psychiatrists U.K
American Board Certified
General Practice · Mental Health
C/Vilana, 12 • consulta 161 Barcelona • Tel: 93 393 3161
Extensive range of primary care services Access to all medical specialists/investigations
GOOG medical centre
Tel 93 330 2412 • Mobile 627 669 524 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org www.googolmedicalcentre.com
Email: email@example.com www.teknon.es/consultorio/onbargi
Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 08028 Barcelona Les Corts
Fellow, American College OB/GYN Diplomate American Board of OB/GYN
ENGLISH • SPANISH • FRENCH
English Dentist Dr. Nicholas Jones BDSLDSRCS Col. No 4090
General & Cosmetic dentistry Orthodontics Implants & Tooth whitening Smile makeovers Diagonal 281 (Sagrada familia L5/Monumental L2) Tel. 93 265 80 70 / Mob. 607 332 335 Open Monday to Saturday
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46 Beauty | HealtH | WellBeing Chiropractors
Psychologists / Psychotherapists
Jonathan Lane Hooker Jonathan Lane Hooker Psychotherapist, Counsellor, Coach and Guide
Psychotherapist, Counsellor, Coach and Guide Help and support with: • • • • • •
Lack of Energy or Low Self-Esteem 20 MIN Expat Issues and Adapting to Change INTRODUCTORY MEETING Improving Family and Personal Relationships Feelings of Anger, Loneliness and Isolation, or Anxiety Achieving a Particular Goal or Finding a New Direction Changing Unhelpful or Destructive Habits or Patterns of Behaviour
firstname.lastname@example.org Read more about Jonathan and the above issues at
TEL 93 590 7654
MOB 639 579 646
Network of English Speaking Therapists Established since 2000
Connie Capdevila Brophy PhD Clinical Psychologist & Psychotherapist 934 670 650
Anna Jansen MA Dance Movement Therapist 657 183 542
Norma Alicia León, PhD Clinical Psychologist Psychoanalyst 680 971 468
Maria Sideri, MSc Psychologist & Dance Movement Therapist 655 162 410
Donna DeWitt MA Performance & Sport Psychologist 607 636 246
Vera M. Hilb MA Clinical Psychologist & Psychotherapist, EMDR 667 584 532
Jill Jenkins PsyD Child Clinical & School Psychologist 935 041 690
Emma Judge MA Licensed Counselor Psychologist 639 041 549
Manuel Isaías López, MD, PhD Claudia Ros Tusquets MA Clinical Psychologist Child and Adolescent Psychiatrist & Psychoanalyst & Psychotherapist 934 102 962 / 657 570 692 686 991 742
Peter Zelaskowski UKCP Registered Psychotherapist 628 915 040
www.barcelonanest.com All NEST professionals are Licensed / Certified
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English - Spanish - Catalan - Dutch - German - Italian
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Beauty | Health | Wellbeing 47 HypnoBirthing
Manual Healing Therapy
Call 657 994 630 Electricity
Plumbing and electrical services No job too small or too large Commercial and residential air conditioning Satellite installation
Looking for someone you can trust? Call 657 994 630 Same day service
C/Alcolea nยบ42 bajos, 08014 Barcelona
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48 Home Services Plumbing
Interior Design GRAHAM COLLINS PROPERTY CONSULTANCY INTER IOR DESIGN & DECOR ATION Puzzled by the property market ? Need a renovator that speaks your language ? Want that designed look on an Ikea budget ? C / CONSULAT DEL MAR 35, 3er BARCELONA t: 0034 678 75 75 11 e: email@example.com
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Real Estate & Accommodation
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Home Services 49 Transport / Storage / Removals
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50 EDUCATION Language Schools
iness Spanish Ă
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EDUCATION | SERVICES 51 Language Schools
FOR ALL YOUR DESIGN NEEDS Contact: Aisling
BA in Visual Communication
Member of the International Society of Typographic Designers
e: firstname.lastname@example.org t: +34 699 260 938
John French Associates Design & Communication Design, copy writing, photography and illustration
Bespoke means ‘made to individual order’, and we tailor each project to our client’s unique needs. With over 10 years of experience in graphic design we are passionate about communicating your message and provide an all round creative service.
FOR ALL YOUR DESIGN NEEDS For work samples contact:
t. 933 56 87 05 m. 634 78 30 71
m.667 906 721
BA in Visual Communication 50-55 Mar.indd 51
e: email@example.com t: +34 699 260 938
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52 SERVICES Computers
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54 BUSINESS Legal Practices
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EMPLOYMENT 55 Job Opportunities
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56 EMPLOYMENT Job Opportunities
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A selection of the latest classiﬁed ads you can see on our website now For Sale: Vehicles / Boats Jeep Wrangler LHD Jeep Wrangler LHD 4 Lt 4x4 1992 excellent condition, private plates, expensive stereo, lots Of chrome, hard top, plus over night cover, A/C, car is completly renovated, ﬁrst to see will buy 5000€ O.N.O Tel. 666 364 871 Daewoo Musso 4 x 4 Daewoo Musso 4x4 TDi 2.9 Mercedes Engine, yr 2000 tax and MOT, 73000mls, UK Plates, good all round condition suitable for return trip to UK as plenty of room, t/bar, A/C, Automatic, CD player, 2300€ Tel. 666 364 871 Hyunday Getz, 1.3 GLS authomatic, 5 doors, gasoline, registered in Spain Huynday GETZ 1.3 GLS, 2004, authomatic, 84000km, gasoline, low fuel consumption (95), in very good condition and stayed in the garage well taken care off. Price is 3900€. I have been really content with this very comfortable car. Tel: 622 307 869 Natallia
Others Barcelona v Real Zaragoza Six tickets for Barcelona v Real Zaragoza on 5/6 March on sale. Contact Dan at firstname.lastname@example.org for details. Household goods BREAD-MAKER “Fast-Bake / Morphy Ricahrds” Bread-Maker. Bought in the UK. 12 different baking programs. Mixes and bakes. It also make mermelades. Bakes 1.5 to 2 pound loafs. Comes measuring cup and spoon, also 24 pag. instructions/recepie book in English. Call Art. Tel. 617 991 029 DOUBLE SOFA BED FOR SALE, ONLY USED FOR 3 MONTHS!!! 50 EURO!!! Hi Selling an IKEA double sofa bed. I only bought it 3 months ago but now
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I am leaving Spain and selling out! It is current stock from IKEA. No damages at all. In ideal condition. Will provide a receipt as a guarantee that it is only 3 months old. Please call Tel. 672 979 256 BARGAIN!! 3 seater sofa. Excellent condition!! 3-Seater sofa in excellent condition. 2m long. Adjustable backrest. Extendible seats. Buyer responsible for transport. Only €150. Price negociable. E-mail me for photos: email@example.com. Must sell soon! Terrassa. IKEA Pax wardrobes €300 negotiable. Excellent condition. Only €300. 2x50cm & 1x100cm. Height 236cm with shelves, baskets & extendable trouser hanger. Excellent condition. Buyer responsible for dismantling & transport. Price negotiable. E-mail me for photos. firstname.lastname@example.org. Must sell soon! Terrassa. BARGAIN. Lounge shelving unit with TV table & cabinet. Excellent condition. Only €100 Lounge furniture. IKEA. Shelving, TV table, shelves and cabinet. e-mail me for photos. Excellent price: €100. Buyer responsible for dismantling & transport. Must sell soon! Terrassa.
Property for sale Beautiful Country Cottage in Tarragona Province Beautiful renovated stone cottage for sale in holiday village in wine/ cava area of Tarragona approx. 1 hour from Barcelona, 30 mins coast. 100m2: 3 beds, ofﬁce/4th bedtoom, 3 bathrooms, large living/dining room, kitchen, central heating, 70m terrace, garage. 150,000 euros. Tel. 977 862125 or 608 923 470 45 m2 NEW APARTMENT IN DELTE D’EBRE (TARRAGONA) Fantastic deal – new apartment in Delte D´ebre. Only 99.000,-€ no agencies, 45 m2. Brand new gor-
geous apartment in Delte D’ebre (Tarragona).5 minutes to the sea. 2 bedroom, 2 Toiletes , kitchen, living room and dining room , private garage for 1 car included in the price. Lovely comunity pool and barbeque . Fantastic deal. Direct through owner. Contact: Maribel at Tel. 629 302 128 e-mail address: maribeldelta@ gmail.com
Wanted Relaxed singer/songwriter looking to play and meet up Hello, I am a singer songwriter from England and I’m looking to see a few gigs at potential venue spots around Barcelona. I play mostly acoustic but have a broard range of tastes. If anyone is of similar nature and wants to meet up then let me know. I am 22 and live in Barcelona. Thanks, Nick email@example.com Spacious 3 Bed/ 2Bath with or without furniture in Diagnol de Mar, Gracia, Eixample,Villa Olympica or Born. Looking for modern and spacious 3 bedroom/2 bath for a family of 5! (3 children under 3). We would like it well located, cosmopolitan area close to parks and metro. We will start looking in March and coming again in April to hopefully ﬁnd a place for the summer. Contact: firstname.lastname@example.org Thank you, Jelena. Apartment or house within 30 kms of Barcelona center??? 600 or less... Hello, myself my wife and a 1 year old baby, have just moved to Barcelona. We are very ﬂexible on location but need something with a bit of space. If you have something available or coming up soon please contact Nilo at email@example.com Thank you, Nilo
Seeking Spanish male 37 seeking nice female,send text: 666 044 436
Looking for Native English friends Hi there! This is Enric from the costa Brava looking for native English speaking new friends in or out of town just to hang out from time to time. I don’t need to practise my English at all but I’d love to meet people from abroad and have basically have fun! Contact me at my cell or e-mail me if you like : ) Thanks Enric Tel: 619 639 821 E-mail: Enricmassos@hotmail.com Looking for a nice girl Hello , I’m looking for a nice girl to spend romantic nights together. I’m 27 and good looking. A sexy and intelligent girl. Please send me emaill: firstname.lastname@example.org
Groups & Clubs DateClub - Speed Dating & Events for Singles in Spain Whether you are looking for someone special or just want to broaden your circle of friends, Speed Dating is the best and most exciting way to meet new people. We guarantee you a relaxed and fun evening out in a cool venue where you will meet around 15 singles in one evening. All ages and nationalities are welcome. So, why not give it a try?! You never know who you might meet! For full details of all our events and to book your place, see our website http:// www.dateclubconnect.com/ Or call us direct on Tel. 938 702 198 or 687 856 411. Barcelona Soul Singers We are currently recruiting members for a new Choir/Group here in Barcelona. Mainly we are searching for strong pop/gospel voices with a passion for music. Songs will be sung in English, so a strong grasp of the language is essential. The group will be looking to perform in and around Barcelona starting this Spring/Summer. If you are interested in ﬁnding out more, or setting up a meeting/ audition please get in touch. E-mail:mike_t_freeman@hotmail. com
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58 BACK PAGE
ood old Ryanair! Just when you thought it was safe to go back to the airport, the great white shark of the airline industry strikes again. Twice, in fact, in close succession. Their most recent triumph was refusing to carry 100 Belgian students back from Lanzarote following an altercation over hand-luggage. Prior to that, they had refused to carry a lawyer heading to Girona who foolishly turned up at the airport without a boarding pass, unless he paid them €40 to print one out for him. Something he was understandably reluctant to do, having already paid for a ticket. Unfortunately for the airline—a phrase it is difficult to utter without feeling a little insincere —as a lawyer, he was more versed in aviation law than the average Ryanair passenger. Not to disparage Ryanair passengers. It’s not their fault they are seduced by offers that promise a one-way ticket for the price of a beer. It’s just that often the return ticket will be closer to the price of a barrel of beer. Or of crude oil. Or aviation fuel. They also fail to realise that if they fly to a far-flung airport, they then need to buy a hefty bus ticket if they want to get to what they thought was their destination. Alas, most Ryanair passengers are less accustomed to reading, let alone questioning, the small print than the average lawyer. In fairness, this particular lawyer specialises in taking air-
lines to court, so it’s not entirely unreasonable to suspect he might have been flying Ryanair for business reasons. Or just for the publicity. Either way, he was doing what everyone who travels with a budget airline has wanted to do at some point, which is refusing to pay a fee he felt was abusive. Fortunately for him, a judge in Barcelona agreed. Unused to coming out second-best in their dealings with customers, Ryanair promptly announced that as they were unable to charge for a boarding pass, anyone arriving at the airport without one would not be allowed to travel at all. An ingenious, if petulant, response. Their argument is that you can’t travel if you turn up without a passport, so the same will apply to a boarding pass, perhaps forgetting that while you provide the passport, it’s the airline that is supposed to issue the boarding pass. Passengers already have to provide things that used to be included in the price of a ticket, such as food, water and entertainment, so what’s next? Seats? A torch to read by? Taking turns to fly the plane? It would be nice to think that, in these days of people power, the 100 students who were taken off a flight in Lanzarote would have found a similarly happy solution to their problem. They didn’t of course. They found themselves stranded, watched over by the police and
scrabbling around for tickets home at short notice. And at short-notice prices, presumably. Perhaps if they had been law students, it might have made a difference. What’s heartening about the story is the solidarity among the hapless students. Most of them paid up. It was just a few who couldn’t or wouldn’t pay for their excess baggage. That’s a lot of beers they’ll owe their supportive colleagues once they get back to Belgium. And a lot of sheepish apologies. At least now we know the price of friendship. It’s a one-way ticket from Lanzarote to Brussels. Or rather Charleroi, which is where the airport is, a mere 56 kilometres from Brussels. Unfortunately, ‘Supporting a Friend’ isn’t recognised by many insurance companies as a justifiable reason for missing a flight. Nor is ‘Being Messed Around by Ryanair’. Otherwise there would be a lot more claims. Interestingly, Ryanair are finding they are increasingly unwelcome at the small airports they have done so much to publicise. Both Girona and Pau airport in the French Pyrenees have refused to continue paying exorbitant subsidies for the airlines to use them. So of course, the airline has declared it will reduce the number of flights or even stop using the airports altogether. And so the Irish soap opera continues. --Roger de Flower
by Nuria Picola
Aries Many opportunities will come your way, both workrelated and spiritual. You believe more in yourself and know where to find treasure. Renew your diet.
Taurus You are very focused on
Gemini Everything starts to move faster, but during this month you will feel held up; you need to review your image and view of yourself. This way you can achieve personal perfection.
Cancer This month you need to give and share, so be more generous but don’t go overboard—you still don’t have personal independence. Pay attention to changes at work.
Leo This month you should transform your body as you wish, both inside and out. A creative project opportunity may appear in which you will take a very important role.
Virgo It’s time to put your
Libra It’s a good time to improve your health, you’ll be very focused on this. At work, you just need to get through the month. Stop worrying about small things, stay confident.
Scorpio Financial income is very favourable this month; there are good, well-paid employment opportunities. You have your boss’s support. Modernise your work.
Sagittarius It’s a wise idea to
Capricorn If you’re job-seeking,
Aquarius The events of this month go quickly, everything seems exciting. If you’re looking for work, the end of the month sees a great opportunity appear. You’re very communicative.
Pisces Congratulations! You’re in a period of personal renewal in all the senses. It’s time to enjoy many pleasures, but in moderation. Your charisma is more intense than usual.
do more renovations at home. If you have children, you might feel they are more rebellious; treat them wisely. The family also needs your support.
work objectives, so may overlook personal issues. You have the charisma to achieve what you want, but you should pay more attention to your family life.
home in order, and at work, to organise everything—give away or sell what you don’t need. You also need to get rid of old emotional or mental habits.
this month should be a good time for publicity campaigns: send CVs by email or make telephone calls. Your love life continues along the same path.
scoop By Ben Rowdon
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APARTMENTS FOR RENT IN BARCELONA Brand new apartments to rent next to El Born Furnished or unfurnished
Plaza Pau Vila New build apartments with 1 bedroom, 1 bathroom or 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms Fully-equipped kitchen. Heating and air conditioning Parking space and storage Prices from â‚Ź1000
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PHOTO: IRIMI MEDIA
An exquisite selection of homes to buy, sell or rent. HJAP贸N can make your dreams come true, a life next to the beach and by the mountains in the best properties only 10 minutes away from downtown Barcelona - El Maresme. A new concept in real estate advice and service.
Enjoy the best of both worlds. Live in a house with a pool surrounded by beautiful countryside but only 10 minutes from Barcelona. The location boasts international schools, a golf course and various sporting facilities nearby and is close enough to be able to work in the centre.
www.hjapon.com C/Amadeo I n潞30 B, El Masnou, 08320, Barcelona | Tel. 93 540 8161 | Email. email@example.com
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As you will already have noticed on the front cover, change is afoot at Metropolitan. Enjoy the issue and let us know what you think about...
Published on Feb 28, 2011
As you will already have noticed on the front cover, change is afoot at Metropolitan. Enjoy the issue and let us know what you think about...