Vol 4 • #3 june-july 2009
The Local Take on Good Food, Fine Wine & more…
on the farm Kayam Farm
in the kitchen
at Sascha's 527 Café
a reason for the season
Blueberries
wine talk
Six Sizzling Summer Whites
after dinner
Two Women from Mt. Vernon complimentary
ummertime is here and what better way to enjoy the season, than by eating local? Baltimore has a market pretty much every day of the week. Here is a look at where you can go:
tuesday: Village of Cross Keys - 5100 Falls Rd. Baltimore 10a-2p;
Kenilworth Mall - 798 Kenilworth Dr. Towson 3:30-6:30p
wednesday: Mt. Washington - Whole Foods 1330 Smith Ave 4-7p thursday: Towson Farmers Market - Allegheny Ave 10a-3p friday: The Avenue at White Marsh - 10a-1p saturday: Harbor East - 1000 block Lancaster btw Exeter and Central Sts.;
Highlandtown - 3500 block of Bank St. btw Bank and Conkling 8a-noon; Waverly Market - 32nd and Barclay Sts. 7a-noon (year-round)
sunday: Owings Mills Farmers Market - 3506 Gwynnbrook Ave (JCC) 8a-noon; Baltimore Market - under the 83 viaduct 8a-noon
baltimore eats will be at our sponsored market, in Owings Mills every Sunday. Come by and say hello! Happy Summer!
Check out: www.owingsmillsfarmersmarket.com
principal • celeste corsaro •contributing writers stan bliden celeste corsaro kerry dunnington scooter holt bonnie north randi rom •layout & design jaime leiner •photography marty katz dave kone •founder bonnie north •sales & marketing celeste corsaro celeste@baltimoreeats.com 443.465.6076 baltimore eats magazine is published by local eats, llc a baltimore-based, independent publisher p.o. box 8630, elkridge, md 21075 baltimore eats magazine is printed by Cavanaugh Press •linda j. dragonuk, 443.690.4241 Copyright 2009. All rights reserved. Reproduction without expressed permission is prohibited.
june - july • 2009 departments Celeste’s corner - 3
the Charm City Scoop
On THE FARM - 6
at Kayam Farm
in the kitchen - 12
with Cathy Bind at Sascha's 527 Café
A Reason for the Season - 20 Blueberries
WINE TALK - 24
Six Sizzling Summer Whites
AFTER DINNER - 28
Two Women from Mt. Vernon
John Shields, author of Our Common Table, is currently on vacation, but will return next issue!
Happy Hour tuesday – friday 5:00 – 6:30 pm Buy one martini, get your second one for $1. 1/2 price glass of wine and beer Small plate appetizers
Weekly Specials tuesday $15 Fish and Seafood
Drink Local. Buy Maryland Wine from Your Favorite Local Wine Shop and Farmers’ Markets
wednesday $10 Pasta Entrée thursday 1/2 price Bottle of Wine Outdoor seating available Pazza Luna 1401 E. Clement St. Baltimore, md 21230
410.962.1212 www.PazzaLuna.us www.pazzaluna.blogspot.com
Live by the Sun ~ Love by the Moon 4 • june-july 09
Photo: “Seeds & Stems” by James Eichelman
Drawing from generations of experience and an ideal climate for ripening classic winegrapes, Maryland’s skilled winemakers provide wine drinkers a wonderful experience—world class wine made in Maryland. Maryland’s wineries offer delightful settings for a family adventure, a gathering with friends, a romantic interlude, or a moment of quiet solitude. Visit a Maryland winery or one of our award-winning festivals & events – much more information is available online at www.MarylandWine.com.
Wine is Growing in Maryland
www.baltimoreeats.com
Italian Lessons: “tradizionale ed innovativo” Enjoy both traditional and innovative Italian dishes in our fine-dining atmosphere.
“perfezione” Under the direction of Celebrity Chef Tony Gambino, every dish is prepared to absolute perfection.
“squisito”
Delicious. The only word you’ll need to know.
CIAO BELLA 236 South High Street Little Italy, Baltimore 410-685-7733
ON THE FARM he words of the
ancient Midrashim have a special meaning for Jakir Manela, the resident farmer and director of Kayam Farm at the Pearlstone Conference and Retreat Center.
do much more than that. Kayam Farm is the means to an end—it’s Jewish education and environmental education. It’s about trying to help people reconnect to the land and realize their responsibilities to it—to
God said to Adam, “See my works how good and praiseworthy they are? And all that I have created I made for you. Be mindful then that you do not spoil and destroy My world—for if you do spoil it, there is no one after you to repair it.” -Kohelet Rabbah 7:13 1
Kayam is a Hebrew word which can be loosely translated as “exist, sustain, firmly establish, and everlasting,” a fitting title for this extraordinary enterprise out in the bucolic environs of rural Reisterstown. Jakir, his wife, Netsitsah, and their two-year-old son, live in a log-framed cabin on the grounds at Pearlstone. He and his wife, their co-workers, volunteers and students have created a testament to their commitment to the health of the land and the exploration of their heritage. Recruited in 2006, Jakir came to his position by way of the University of Wisconsin-Madison. He had a teaching stint with the Teva Learning Center teaching social and ecological responsibility. Integrating environmental issues with Jewish prayer, parables and values, Teva teaches about the soil cycles, the water cycles, and energy cycles by getting hands in the dirt and bringing life to the land.
have respect for it, to feel grateful for it…” Jakir insists, with an evident and deeply held passion. Despite his modest admission that, “This is only my fourth year as a ‘seed to harvest’ farmer,” during Kayam’s very first season in 2007, nearly 3500 pounds of produce were grown on less than one half acre of land and distributed through Kayam’s Community Supported Agriculture program—and even more impressive, almost 3000 people participated in Kayam’s educational programs.
“We could have set out to simply grow as much as we possibly could on this land. But we want to 1 Kohelet Rabbah, composed somewhere between the sixth and eighth centuries, is from the rabbinic literature collectively known as Midrashim—stories, homilies, parables, and legal exegesis based on ancient biblical texts.
Jakir Manela Recruited in 2006 as Kayam Environmental Director, is the resident farmer.
photography by: dave kone
Kayam Farm
lies within the Pearlstone Conference & Retreat Center in rural Reisterstown
Many of the educational programs at Kayam are experimental and unique. There are deep metaphors embedded in each of the smaller teaching gardens. “We attempt to use the landscape as a lens through which people can experience their heritage,” Jakir begins, as he leads us through an afternoon’s tour of the gardens in progress. “Here we are getting ready to plant twelve trees in a circle representing the twelve tribes of Israel, the twelve sons. In the center we’ll plant two fig trees, the ‘Tree of Life’ and the ‘Tree of Knowledge.’ To make the story real we selected different fruits for the different brothers. So…for example, in the Torah it’s told how two of the brothers commit murders, so to represent them we have chosen blood cherries. We’re trying to create a way to tell that story through the landscape that is more than just symbolic… We want to bring these biblical stories to life by creating spaces where people can come and be within them, to hold drama games, to experience the stories made real right here in the land.”
Walking the gently sloping hillocks that hold the educational gardens, Jakir patiently details the purpose and meaning behind each one: “These are five vegetable plots representing the five books of Moses. Plot One is named after the first book, Genesis. In Hebrew the word is B’reishit, so we call this plot B’reishit” Gesturing to the top of the nearest hill he points out the Women’s Orchard. “This is a women’s communal effort my wife is helping to lead. They are working on creating a permaculture-style ‘forest garden’ with four different types of fruit trees, each standing for a specific Biblical matriarch and also representing phases in a woman’s life. They’ll be surrounding the trees with medicinal herbs and flowers chosen to complement these energies.” Separated by the specific distance defined in the Talmud, is the Patriarch’s Vineyard where three different types of grapes represent the three ancient patriarchs, and down the hill sits a line of curious little
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continued
june-july 09 • 7
raised beds with careful patterns marked out by lengths of string. Jakir explains their significance: “These boxes are more straightforward translations of ancient Jewish texts. Not many people realize this, but one sixth of the Talmud is actually devoted to agriculture. The laws of Kilayim deal with ‘keeping things distinct.’ In Chapter 3, Mishnah 1, the rabbis try to determine how many different species one can plant in a small square area, 18 inches on each side. There are actual diagrams in the Talmud showing ways to do that. So we have translated that text into the ground—here we have dill, kale, chard and cilantro on the outside, and chicory in the center. But there are numerous interpretations and geometrical planting configurations in the text—so we have a total of five demonstration boxes showing these different rabbinic interpretations. We’re trying to explore without an overbearing agenda. We can try to guess what the rabbis were thinking and what purpose these laws originally served. They definitely had botanical knowledge, but many of these laws remain a mystery to us. That’s why exploring them is so amazing and powerful.”
Another educational plot is planted with wheat that Jakir hopes to have students harvest by hand and winnow in the traditional manner. Other fields, along with the beautiful Rose Winder Greenhouse, are devoted to growing vegetable crops for the CSA, which has grown from 11 members last year to 25 this season. “The CSA is very important to our economic sustainability,” Jakir reminds us, “and the farm has grown tremendously in the past year. Now that we’ve hired a full-time Education Director and a full-time Volunteer Coordinator, it allows me to increase the productivity of the farm.” Not all of Kayam’s educational efforts take place within the confines of the gardens. They offer a seasonal Chesapeake Bay Watershed Pilgrimage where participants hike, canoe, camp, and bike from Pearlstone to the Inner Harbor over the course of three days. “We call it a ‘Human Powered’ excursion,” Jakir laughs, “It’s a powerful experience that teaches ecology, history, and spirit by journeying through our beautiful watershed.” Yes, you can be a part of it—get your hands dirty. Outside…in the dirt.
K ayam Farm 5425 Mt. Gilead Road R eisterstown, MD 21136 www.P earl Stone C enter .org
410.429.4400 Bonnie North is the founder of The Learning Through Growing Project, which is engaged in planting gardens in Baltimore schools.
Above: Built by volunteers from December 06-March 07, the beautiful Rose Winder Greenhouse was the first infrastructure in place. Below: This bed shows the various patterns created in a lesson following the ancient Jewish agricultural law of "planting four on the outside and one in the middle."
great food good company a classic american tavern
1702 Thames Street • Fells Point • Maryland, 21231 • 410.563.5423 • www.koopers.com
I
Best Pint of Guinness this side of Ireland J Irish Breakfast served all day, everyday
1700 Thames Street • 410.563.6600 www.slaintepub.com
Rooftop Waterfront View
Caribbean Cuisine
Island Cocktails
Live Music
a
821 South Broadway. Corner of Thames st. • Upstairs from Slainte • www.woodysrumbar.com www.baltimoreeats.com
june-july 09 • 9
13 Allegheny Ave . Towson . 410.296.0799
cafe juice bar catering
come taste a world of wine, cocktails from yesterday & fantastic food
www.ginmillcanton.com ¤
Next Raw Food Dinners: Sat July 11th & Sat August 15th
serving lunch and dinner daily 11:30am-2:00am
Quick casual cafe offering raw,vegan,local,organic, free range& wholesome foods
private function space available
sunday brunch 10:30am-2:00pm (up to 150 people)
¤ 2300
www.ziascafe.com
boston st. canton md 410.327.MILL
Café Gia Ristorante 410 S.High St. • Baltimore, MD 21202
"...casual yet sophisticated, urban yet homespun..." - Baltimore Sun "...distinct restaurant with fine Sicilian food..." - Baltimore Magazine "Best BYOB" - Elizabeth Large, Baltimore Sun "...every neighborhood should have a corner spot like Café Gia..." - Baltimore City Paper
www.cafegias.com 410-685-6727 10 • june-july 09
•
www.baltimoreeats.com
21224
STEAMED CRABS & MARYLAND SEAFOOD STEAMED CRABS & MARYLAND SEAFOOD ~ BALTIMORE’S BEST ~ STEAMED CRABS & MARYLAND SEAFOOD ~ BALTIMORE’S BEST ~ STEAMED CRABS & MARYLAND SEAFOOD
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ERIC HAMILTON
Where the locals go! Where the locals go! Where the locals go! 410-276-8900 Where the locals go! 410-276-8900 410-276-8900 Minutes from the Inner Harbor 410-276-8900 MinutesON from the Inner Harbor THE WATER
ERIC HAMILTON ERIC HAMILTON ERIC HAMILTON
www.cantondockside.com • 3301 Boston Street, Canton www.cantondockside.com • 3301 Boston Street, Canton www.cantondockside.com • 3301 Boston Street, Canton www.cantondockside.com • 3301 Boston Street, Canton
MinutesON from the Inner Harbor THE WATER MinutesON from the Inner Harbor THE WATER ON THE WATER
IN THE K I TCHEN
Sascha’s 527 Café
Sascha’s 527 Café, is
www.Saschas .com
12 • june-july 09
| 410.539.8880
www.baltimoreeats.com
photo: dave kone
athy bind, executive chef at
considered a chef’s chef among her peers as well as by her employers. “She’s not afraid to get in the trenches and do the prep work—she’s not one to simply expedite,” says owner Sascha Wolhandler. Chef Bind emphasizes “We don’t pull any punches, if we need a thousand straws (Sascha’s well known spicy, crunchy breadsticks), we do it together as a team—that’s why we’ve been together so long.”
photo: marty katz
A self admitted Morocco and France, graduate of the creating a menu school of hard with global cuisine. knocks, Cathy got Some of Chef Bind’s her training from most popular dishes the people she’s include charred, worked with. She grilled shrimp with began working creamy parmesan when she was just grits and andouille sixteen, making sausage; pan seared, sandwiches alongside five spice Ahi tuna her mother, Ruth and Napa slaw Grilled shrimp on creamy parmesan Mullen (who was also with fruit sushi and grits with andouille sausage and the ravioli maker at ginger lemongrass charred corn salad with a vanilla Chiapparelli’s) at the broth. Another shrimp nage. Mount Washington favorite is the grilled Tavern. Her father, filet in a wine and Louis Mullen was a baker at Baltimore’s grape sauce with Pommes Maxim famous Rice’s Bakery and Cathy admits and sautéed chards of zucchini. that she got the foodie bug as a child Their best selling taste plates offer baking cupcakes. mini bison burgers with a Moroccan barbeque sauce; fried green tomatoes, Out of high school, her first with mixed greens and lump crab professional job was at H&M Pockets. and balsamic reduction; crispy on Her next stop was at Peabody Court, the outside–moist in the middle crab where she met her former husband cake sliders; smoked duck quesadillas Philippe Bind, a French pastry chef. and Old Bay fries in a cone. Sascha’s Together they traveled to his homeland offers tasty homemade desserts such of France where Cathy worked in a as black bottom cupcakes, raspberry, small café. Back in Baltimore, she coconut granola bars and a host of began working at Sascha’s with Quinn cakes, cookies and ice creams. “One Applebee, whom she worked with of my favorite dishes to prepare is at Peabody Court. Cathy has been at Asian tofu with spicy green beans,” Sascha’s for eleven years. For four years notes Bind. “And our menu creation she was a sous chef under Applebee and is different with each sous chef—we then became Executive Chef, a position don’t go by trends.” To that end, one she has had for the last seven years. of Cathy’s unique creations–chocolate Sascha’s 527 Café is located at 527 chili–was awarded first place at the North Charles Street in a 19th century 2009 Chocolate Affair—a benefit for townhouse in historic Mt. Vernon. But, Healthcare for the Homeless. Sascha’s is more than just a restaurant. Cathy’s kitchen runs many different operations. Sascha’s has a significant presence in the metropolitan area as an upscale caterer. Catering’s day-part is Sascha’s Silver Sacs, which delivers tasty meals in a sac. The restaurant offers a casual dining experience during the day and at night the style is transformed into a cozy, white tablecloth restaurant for dinner.
Being a local Baltimorean, Chef Bind supports local purveyors such as Saval Foodservice for meat, cheese and dairy, Bel Air Produce and Gunpowder Bison to name a few.
Sascha’s, under the helm of Chef Bind, is known for its unique dishes that apply palettes from America, Asia,
Randi Rom is President of RJ Rom & Associates, specializing in events, promotions and branding.
“Being a chef is one of those things– you either love it or hate it–you have to have a passion.” Her motto is “every day is a story, laugh all the time.”
RandiRom@comcast.net
Southwestern Cuisine in a cool casual atmosphere
Sunday Brunch 11:30am-3:00pm
Southwestern Style Buffet $14 includes Mimosas & Champagne
Monday Happy Hour all night long! Half-Priced Appetizers
Tuesday
Tapas & Sangria
$3.50 glass $10 Pitchers
Wednesday
Half-Priced Wine-Glass or Bottle
Thursday
$10 Taco Platters $3.50 select Margaritas
Friday Happy Hour 3:00-7:00pm
Saturday
Noon-6:00pm Margarita Matinee
$3.50 select Margaritas
2318 Fleet Street 410-732-1961
www.geckosonline.com
Available for private parties, meetings, luncheons 14 • june-july 09
www.baltimoreeats.com
1117 S. Charles St. • Baltimore, MD 21230 410-727-1212
Authentic Italian small-plates in Historically hip Federal Hill
eats: [eets] noun — 1. food
—Carry-Out Wine & Beer—
exchange: [iks-cheynj] noun — 1. to trade or deal
www.tav e r nacorv i no.com open daily 11am-2am. kitchen closes at 11pm
baltimore's sustainable coffee source
Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner & drinks everyday 902 S. Charles Street Baltimore, Maryland 21230
410-234-0235
www.metrobalto.com Facebook: Metropolitan Coffeehouse & Wine Bar
TM
thank you for supporting locally roasted coffee
www. b lu eb i r dco ffee . com
CA P TA I N L A R RY ’ S BA R & GR ILL 601 E . FORT AV E . BA LT I MOR E , M D
410 -727-4799 w w w .CA P TA I NL A R RYS . c o m
The most universal Seasonings & Rubs on the market. 100% All Natural Seasonings & Rubs -NO MSG and Gluten Free-
www.toddsdirt.com remember , it is always a good time to get
DIRTY!!
BARTENDERS PUB 2218 Boston Street Baltimore, Maryland 21231 (p) 410-534-BEER (2337) (f) 410-534-2338
www.bartendersbaltimore.com Facebook: Bartenders Pub
16 • june-july 09
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Mill Valley General Store Cheryl Wade 2800 Sisson Street Baltimore, MD 21211 410-889-6842 Fax: 410-889-1132 www.mill-valley.net
cakelove.com 410.522.1825 the can company ● 2500 Boston Street Baltimore, Maryland 21224
Baltimore Eats 3-18.indd 1
3/18/09 3:20:53 PM
Little Havana & Bent Fork Catering 1325 Key Highway Baltimore, MD 21230 410.837.9903
www.littlehavanas.com Facebook: Little Havana
Doing business in Baltimore City for over 100 years and 5 generations.
www.sunofitaly.com WHO IN your restaurant can respond to an emergency?
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serving of safety with baltimore eats
east
delightful food, sustainably sourced prepared simply w/a French-mediterranean flair
east
thursday • Friday • saturday byob 5:30 - 9:00 byob 4 east madison st, baltimore, md 410.605.2020
Monthly CPR & First Aid classes for restaurant professionals. Monday, June 22 3:00pm-7:00pm Ciao Bella Restaurant $50 per person–includes lite fare
to register : celeste@baltimoreeats.com
Find us on Facebook: Baltimore Eats
delightful food, sustainably sourced www.4eastmadisoninn.com/feast prepared simply w/a French-mediterranean flair
thursday • Friday • saturday byob 5:30 - 9:00 byob
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june-july 09 • 17
Every Day Has an
Bring the pleasure back to any day. Enjoy impeccable seafood with Mediterranean flair in the heart of historic Fells Point.
18 • june-july 09
www.baltimoreeats.com
1606 Thames Street, Baltimore, MD 410-563-7600 www.kalismezze.com
1606 Thames St., Baltimore, MD 21231 • 410�276�4700, www.kaliscourt.com
Little plates. Bold flavors. Mediterranean fun.
Thank HEAVENS
Corks is conveniently located in historic Federal Hill near the Inner Harbor’s sports stadiums, hotels and attractions. Monday—Saturday 11:30 am–2am
Sunday 10 am–12 am
Sunday Brunch 10 am–4 pm
Join Us For A Cooking ClAss! Chef Pellegrino holds intimate classes of 12 guests. He invites you to join him as he explores the world of food and wine from the simple to the extravagant!
1026 South Charles Street Baltimore, Maryland 410.752.3810 | www.corksrestaurant.com
410.343.2277
410.343.2277
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june-july 09 • 19
A REASON FOR THE SEASON hen blueberries come
in season, late June through July, I can’t seem to get my fill of these sweet, healthy nuggets. They boast impressive amounts of fiber and nutrients and few calories–about 80 for one cup. Their uses are many and varied; blueberries add color to assorted fresh fruit, hot and cold cereals and fruit smoothies. I also fold them into muffin, pancake and waffle batter with great results and blueberries turn out memorable homemade pies and cobblers. When these nutritional powerhouses are at the height of their season I make a colorful dessert where I layer blueberries with lemon yogurt and homemade granola. Blueberries grow in clusters and vary in size from that of a small caper to the size of a marble. They are deep in color, ranging from blue to maroon to purple-black, and feature a white-gray waxy “bloom” that covers the berry’s surface and serves as a protective coat. The skin surrounds a semi-transparent flesh that encases tiny seeds. Blueberries are literally bursting with beneficial antioxidants. Recent research examined 60 fruits and vegetables for their antioxidant
20 • june-july 09
capability and blueberries came out on top, rating highest in their capacity to destroy cancer-causing free radicals. Selecting, Storing, Preparing
Look for blueberries that are firm and free of wrinkles. Make sure berries aren’t soft and damaged or moldy; test by jostling the container, the berries should move freely. Blueberries should be free of moisture since the presence of water will cause the berries to decay. Fresh berries are fragile and should be washed briefly and drained if they are not organic. It’s best to wash berries just prior to use. Blueberries are best consumed within a few days of purchase. Store them in a covered container in the refrigerator. Blueberries can be frozen with great success. To prepare for freezing–wash, drain and remove any damaged berries, spread berries on a rimmed baking sheet, place in the freezer until frozen. Transfer berries to a plastic bag, freeze until ready to use. Berries typically last up to a year in the freezer. Kerry Dunnington is the author of This Book Cooks and is a member of the Chesapeake Sustainable Business Alliance & Slow Food International.
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thisbookcooks@verizon.net
by:
Kerry Dunnington
During last year’s blueberry season, I was creating all sorts of blueberry recipes for my forthcoming cookbook, This Book Cooks Too. For a recipe finalist Blueberry French Croissant a la French Toast, fresh local berries had gone out of season. I tested the recipe using frozen berries; taste testers didn’t recognize any flavor difference when I used fresh or frozen berries. Not only can you enjoy this recipe when blueberries are in season, enjoy it year-round!
blu e be r ry f re nc h c roi s s a n t a l a f re nc h toa s t B lu ebe r ry F re nc h C rois s a n t
B lu ebe r ry Toppi ng
• 6 mini croissants–sliced lengthwise • 4 eggs, lightly beaten • ½ cup milk • 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon • 1½ cups fresh or frozen blueberries • ¼ cup sugar • Butter and syrup, if desired
D irec t ions Arrange croissant halves in a single layer in an 11x7-inch, (2-quart) baking dish. It will be a bit crowded, but the croissants will sort themselves out during the overnight soaking process. In a medium bowl, whisk eggs with milk, add vanilla. Pour egg/milk mixture over croissants; turn croissants over to coat completely. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Sprinkle cinnamon evenly over soaked croissants. Preheat oven to 350. In a medium saucepan over moderately low heat, combine blueberries with sugar, when sugar has dissolved, and blueberries have broken down, (about 15 minutes) remove from heat and spoon blueberry topping over croissants. Bake for 30 minutes. Serve immediately. Top with butter and syrup if desired. Serves 4-6
Kerry Dunnington Catering seasonal, local, organic
410-243-3508 thisbookcooks@verizon.net www.baltimoreeats.com
june-july 09 • 21
here is a new place for happy hour on Light Street, Monday–Friday hours are 3 p.m. – 6 p.m. An American bistro with an urban eclectic atmosphere. Call 410-962-1220 for more details.
RESIDENCE INN BY MARRIOTT BALTIMORE DOWNTOWN/INNER HARBOR 17 LIGHT STREET, BALTIMORE, MD 21202 22 • june-july 09
www.baltimoreeats.com
Mt. Washington
Harbor East
Monday-Sunday 8am to 9pm
Monday-Saturday 8am-10pm Sunday 8am-9pm
Store Hours
*Free parking at both locations!
Store Hours
*Cafe Open at 7am
W INE TALK
- Six Sizzling Summer Whites used to believe that
there were two reasons to drink white wine. The first was as an apéritif before the red wine was served and second if you’re out of red. These days however, I find myself drinking more and more of the nonred stuff. Maybe it’s because my diet has changed or my tastes have changed or maybe it's because the quality and variety of white wine is the best it has ever been. I occasionally taste with a group of local collectors and our most recent wine dinner was focused on 1990 Barolo’s. This wine is arguably the most complex red wine on earth. Five of us shared some monumental top wines of the vintage preceded by two whites. One of the whites, a 2000 Chateau Haut Brion Blanc made from almost equal parts Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grape varieties was in some opinions, the wine of the night.
24 • june-july 09
As the night began the fruity freshness combined with nicely balanced oak of the Sauvignon Blanc dominated but as we concluded 3 hours later the nose had changed to the honeysuckle and almond flavors of the Semillon variety. WOW!! Granted, Haut-Brion Blanc is a very expensive wine but you need not spend a fortune to get a delicious bottle of white. There are a vast number of wines from all around the world to satisfy the most discriminating palate and budget minded wine lover as well. I have worked very hard to search out six sizzling whites to delight your summer drinking.
In Vino Veritas... Stan Bliden, the second-generation owner of Midway Liquors on Pulaski Highway in Joppa, grew up in the wine business.
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winostan@aol.com
Finca El Origen Torrontes Reserva 2007 Valle de Cafayate Salta, Argentina • $9.99
Chateau de la Greffiere Macon La Roche Vineuse Blanc “Sous le Bois” France 2007 • $15.99
The scent of fresh flowers, peaches and citrus fruits explode from the glass of this hot variety. The palate has nice structure and acidity yet it’s not too dry. It is a lovely summer white at a bargain price.
Now that’s a mouthful without even tasting the wine! But oh what a wine. This 100% Chardonnay from the Maconnais Region south of Burgundy sees a little oak aging (sous le bois). It drinks like a $40 White Burgundy with its rich creamy style and lovely minerality.
Burgans Albarino Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain 2007 • $12.99 The Albarino grape yields a medium to full-bodied wine, which at its best, is crisp, dry, and vibrant with a complex texture. The nose is highly aromatic with excellent peach, apricot and orange blossom characteristics.
Monchhof Estate Riesling QBA, Germany 2007 • $14.99 It has a fruity nose with a hint of petrol followed by a burst of white peach and light sweetness. The minerality and acidity makes for a super refreshing taste that balances the sweetness. It is the perfect summer deck wine, all by itself or with some fruit and cheese.
Pieropan Soave, Italy 2008 • $16.99 At $24 a bottle I could not recommend this wine, but at $16.99 it has re-entered the reality price range. The texture is full, revealing excellent ripeness and the wine shows good length. It is the perfect apéritif wine and matches perfect with asparagus and lighter seafood dishes.
Frog’s Leap Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley California 2008 • $21.99 The nose of lemongrass and minerals jumps right out of the glass and pulls you in for more. The palate of fresh grapefruit, lemon and herbs just goes on and on. It is only 12.5% alcohol so it doesn’t kill you and goes beautifully with goat cheese or grilled seafood. The vineyards located in the heart of the Napa Valley Bench are dry–farmed and organic. The new winery is solar powered.
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june-july 09 • 25
“1/2”
- Elizabeth Large, Baltimore Sun “Best Restaurant” - Baltimore Magazine 2006, 2007 & 2008 “Best Wine Bar” - City Paper 2008 “Best Wine List”- Baltimore Magazine
921 e. fort ave baltimore 21230 at the Foundry on Fort
410.244.6166
www.The-Wine-Market.com lunch: Tues – Fri dinner: daily brunch: sunday
Bilingual Hospitality Training Solutions Monthly classes available in English or Spanish throughout Maryland. Private Classes
Consider a private class for cost savings and convenience at your location in D.C., DE, MD & VA.
Competitive Pricing!
$20.00 discounts available for online registrations to customers of many vendors.
Juliet Bodinetz-Rich Executive Director phone: 443-838-7561 email: Juliet@bilingualhospitality.com web: www.bilingualhospitality.com Approved by all required Maryland Health Departments. Recommended by: Baltimore Hispanic Chamber of Commerce, MICROS Mid-Atlantic, Coastal Sunbelt Produce, First Data Services, LLC Referral Partner, Foodservice Monthly, RAMW and Total Image Graphics.
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june-july 09 • 27
AF TER DINNER he bar business is male –
driven, let’s face it. The hours stink, making relationships near-impossible. The customers can be unruly at best. The language tends to run into the gutter faster than the drink. But before I get a thousand e-mails calling me a sexist, let me tell you about two of my favorite downtown bars that are womenowned. It was Friday night, and my triggerfinger was itching for a “Stoli rocks,” always a great bullet to load your “drunk gun” with. So I tipped on over to Dionysus, right at Charles Street and Preston on Mt. Vernon’s north face, and it was teeming with Baltimore wildlife.
Heading down into the basement bar, I’m reminded why I love this place so much. It isn’t completely revealed to you until you reach the bottom of the steps, so every visit is like walking into a surprise party. But, to no surprise, it was packed. The ceilings are low, as is the lighting, instantly making the space more intimate. The stone fireplace is always glowing with candle-light. If the art school/hipster set could ski, this would be their lodge. My
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with
Scoote r H olt
favorite feature? COUCHES. I like to spread out when I tie on a good drunk, so this place has me covered. The bookshelf is loaded with board games and quaint books, making it properly equipped for long-term drinking. Plan on doing some serious hang-time here? There’s a menu as well. Everything from a cheese board to New York Strip is represented, with a smattering of sandwiches thrown in for good measure. Owner Lynn Hafner calls this style of bar the “European public house,” and I think that has a good sound to it. Lynn has been working in the Baltimore bar business for some time. Before opening Dionysus, she spent several years bartending at the infamous Club Charles, where she realized that the bar business was in her blood to stay. A few years back, a friend had seen the Dionysus space with a “for lease” sign on it, and suggested that Lynn take a peek. Within six months, she closed the deal and, within 45 days, the doors of Dionysus were open, but not without a great deal of sweat. “I always say ‘It’s the house that Baltimore built,’” Lynn told me, referring to all the tip money she had
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saved to start her business. She also admits that the job is often brutal, rarely getting a moment to herself. Thankfully, her manager/head bartender, Andrew Miller, has helped alleviate some of that pressure over the last year.
Being another one who built a bar on tip money, she had thankfully saved all of her loose coins around the house, and it had added up. “I went to a Coinstar and dumped in every bit of change I had.” Seven years later, it has clearly paid off.
Dionysus has everything from Pabst Blue Ribbon in a can, to an eclectic mix of micro-brews, all the way up to top-shelf liquor, making this a muststop on any downtown drinking tour. Happy hour runs all night on Sundays, with $2 Yuengling drafts and $2 seasonal drafts.
Now, why is this place more than a St. Patty’s day hangout? Easy. Not only is there a broad menu of comfy pub fare to soak up the booze, but it is by far the best Guinness draught you can get in the State of Maryland. And that’s not according to me! Mick O’Sheas won this years’ Guinness “Perfect Pour” contest, which judges an establishment on quality of pour (trickier than one would think with Guinness), chill, and overall presentation. Winning this title ranked them number one out of all the Irish bars in Maryland, and number seven nationally.
After leaving Lynn, I rolled myself down to the south face of Mt. Vernon to another favored watering-hole, Mick O’Sheas, right in the heart of the business district on North Charles Street. This bar is well-known as the avid drinker’s “Ground Zero” on St. Patrick’s Day as the parade strolls right past it, but there’s so much more to this place. On the weekends, this neighborhood tavern doubles as a live-music venue, and Scythian was jamming this particular Friday night. Steph Niehenke and her brother Dave have owned this bar for seven years, but have been working in it for the last fourteen. At 34, this is just about all of Steph’s working career. Dave had run the bar for the previous owners, and brought Steph in as a weekend bartender. When “Mick’s” came up for sale, the two jumped at the chance.
So, as you can see, a once maledominated profession is clearly being perfected by two of Baltimore’s hardest-working women. But that doesn’t mean that just anyone can cut the mustard. Both of these women will quickly tell you it isn’t easy, and you have to be tough as nails to get things done. There is something else they’ll tell you you’ll need a set of, and, ironically, that part of the anatomy is reserved for men! Scooter Holt has been in the restaurant industry for over 15 years. He is currently at Corks Restaurant in Federal Hill.
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june-july 09 • 29
www.michorestaurant.com
Grand Opening
Located in Historical Reisterstown, Maryland
Micho Restaurant features three ways to enjoy your dining experience. Fine dine in our quiet, formal dining room, enjoy a casual bite or happy hour with quality live entertainment on our covered outdoor patio - or - experience an intimate concert in our performing arts center, Stage 35 Main Street. All dining venues promise an extensive Mediterranean tapas menu & music inspired spirits. HOURS OF OPERATION SAT & SUN 11:30AM-2AM / MON THRU THURS 4PM-2AM / FRI 3PM-2AM HAPPY HOUR / SUN THRU SAT 4PM-7PM / MON 4PM-7PM & 11PM-1AM / THU LADIES NIGHT FEATURING $5 MARTINIS
MICHO’S
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. 35
MAIN STREET
.
Stage 35 Main Street is a live, performing arts center showcasing a fantastic mix of local and national music acts. Venues include jazz, blues, R&B, soul and rock performed on two stages - six nights a week! “Loved it, loved it, loved it...thought I was in New York!” “Stage 35 is the best thing that has happened to the live entertainment scene in Baltimore in two decades”
410.517.3939 REISTERSTOWN, MARYLAND
www.baltimoreeats.com
21136
Afternoon cake and espresso. An early evening nosh with cocktails. A soup to nuts dinner for two or four or more. For good food and fun à la mode in historic Fells Point.
1636 THAMES STREET HISTORIC FELLS POINT BALTIMORE, MD 21231 410-534-MELI (6354) www.baltimoreeats.com
june-july 09 • 31
2007 BEST LIQUEUR IN THE WORLD 2008 GOLD BEST IN CLASS
www.amarula.com Amarula is a rare find. Appreciate accordingly.
Š2008 Imported from South Africa by AV Brands, Inc., Columbia, MD.
THE SPIRIT OF AFRICA.