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The role of pasta in the Italian identity
POSTE ITALIANE Spa - Spedizione in abbonamento postale - Aut. n. 1429/2020 del 7.08.2020 – Stampe periodiche in REGIME LIBERO
Pasta supply chain and Integrated Pest Management
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N. 4 October / December 2021
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Year XXVI
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Year XXVI - N. 4 October / December 2021 Editor in Chief Claudio Vercellone Scientific and technical committee Maurizio Monti Wheat and flours technician Roberto Tuberosa Agricultural Genetics Editing Lorenzo Bellei Mussini ufficiostampa@avenue-media.eu Advertising Massimo Carpanelli carpa@avenue-media.eu Edition, management, editorial, advertising and administration Avenue media Srl Viale Antonio Aldini, 222/4 40136 Bologna (Italy) avenuemedia@avenue-media.eu www.avenuemedia.eu Subscriptions office abbonamenti@avenue-media.eu Subscription Ue countries € 45.00 Outside Ue € 60.00 Back issues (if available): € 15.00 each plus postage Print MIG - Moderna Industrie Grafiche Srl Via dei Fornaciai, 4 - Bologna (Italy) Registration N. 7875 of 9/9/2008 Court of Bologna All coprights belong to Avenue media Srl May not be used without permission Responsibility of the advertisements belongs to the firms Personal data processing in accordance with Regulation (EU) 2016/679. Privacy Policy is available on Avenue media website www.avenuemedia.eu on “Privacy Policy - Publishing” page: www.avenuemedia.eu/en/privacy-policy-specialist-publishing/
32 EDITORIAL
Enough with controversies over imports
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by Alessandro Massacesi
FEATURES PEST MANAGEMENT
Sustainable pest management in pasta production
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by Michele Ruzza
PASTA & ART
“Draw me like one of your maccheroni”
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by Andrea Maraschi
FOOD RULES
Mustard alert in flour products
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by Giuseppe Maria Durazzo
DEPARTMENTS
Facts & news Supplier news Historical news
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EDITORIAL
Enough with controversies over imports by Alessandro Massacesi
Pasta and wheat traceability depends on trust in controls
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afety first is the watchword. Pasta and wheat traceability has long been a must for companies in the agri-food market. It is an inevitable requirement, but also an opportunity to build trust with the consumer in order to push one’s brand. The safest a brand is perceived, the more consumers will tend to choose it. The equation is simple, especially since the demand comes from the bottom and has led EU countries to equip themselves with increasingly structured and
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precise control tools to achieve their goal. Today controls are stricter and this has enhanced the quality and hygiene of the food that comes to our tables. Consumers are more confident because they can keep an eye on the entire production process of a foodstuff, all the way along the supply chain. The advantages of traceability lie in the transparency and choice offered to consumers. A praiseworthy task that is still influenced by too many commercial taboos. In fact, today market problems are much more closely
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linked to marketing and communication than they were in the past, partially because of a new global economic model. Closures and fears are fomented by miscommunication and commercial practices that work against the advantages that pasta and wheat traceability could bring us; yet the solutions are right in front of us.
More trust in controls In Italy, for instance, the labelling requirement to indicate the origin of wheat will expire on 31 December, 2021. This measure had helped push the consumption of Italian-certified penne and spaghetti, with 29% increase in sales last year. The deadline warning had come from Coldiretti Puglia exactly when ships loaded with wheat from Russia and Ukraine had called at the port of Bari of. The concern raised by Coldiretti caused several controversies involving the use of imported wheat and pasta, which however clash with the supply and market availability of raw materials; at the same time, it casts a shadow on the systems implemented by companies and states to control their consumer goods. Indeed, the fact that the labelling requirement is expiring suggests that, without it, imported wheat or pasta may be less safe than wheat or pasta that are cultivated or processed in Italy. However, this is not true, because the industry experts are well aware that imported materials are subject to more controls than others (starting with customs), but old beliefs die hard. The problem with this perception mainly concerns the
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EU countries, such as Italy, which has to import wheat to meet a very high market demand. As a matter of fact, Coldiretti’s request is not harmful because of the legislative gap, but because it implicitly risks endorsing the perception that without traceability on the label we could be faced with a market that does not protect consumers’ safety, which is not the case. In fact, pasta and wheat traceability is designed to promote transparency to help consumers to choose, but it is only a part of a larger system of food safety protection, in which controls play a major role. At the heart of controls and traceability lies trust; it is essential to be confident that these tools are effective in countering batches of imported pasta or wheat that may not be compliant with the high safety standards imposed by law.
The controversy on controls damage the market Controls and traceability are working Trust is the key word, but it is not easy to instill it in consumers, although there is clear evidence that the system is working. The recent case involving the Ravenna port authorities that refused to allow the ship Sumatra to land - which had already been rejected by the port of Anabba in Algeria, since it was carrying a cargo of 337,000 quintals of Canadian durum wheat that was Professional
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not compliant with safety standards - is not evidence of failure of controls and traceability, but quite the opposite, as is the withdrawal of pasta packages, in Italy again, that are not compliant with food safety. As a matter of fact, if these occasional events never occurred, one should seriously question whether the system of traceability and controls was working. Instead, we are always informed of every product withdrawal or seizure and this is not bad, but rather good for the market, since silence would be much worse. If consumers find out that some pasta or wheat products have been withdrawn from the market, they will know that controls work; traceability - which is more and more digital - allows us to understand precisely which mechanism in the chain may got stuck and whether there is actually a risk for consumers. Controversies over controls are not good for the market, nor is the idea that traceability is the final solution, as each of these elements develops a bad reputation for the brand or the market. The batches of pasta and the shipments of wheat that have been withdrawn are not a danger, but the evidence that we are all safer today. Companies’ efforts to make the origin of their products clearer to the end consumer must be properly communicated, as well as the fact that this mechanism trusts their controls, otherwise all these rules will curb consumption. Today’s market needs to be more open and confident in order to be competitive. There is no need for additional rules on traceability, but more communication and a clear and higher level of trust in the system by companies, which are today true influencers of themselves. Traceability of products is therefore to be welcomed, but it is not enough to build consumer loyalty; if we do not believe in rules ourselves, we cannot expect consumers to do so. Alessandro Massacesi
October / December 2021
FACTS & NEWS
Survey on the typical organic pasta consumer Marche Polytechnic University has carried out a study on the habits of organic pasta buyers to help companies in this industry to be more competitive. The research, conducted on a high profiled sample of organic-oriented consumers from all Italian regions, aged between 16 and 66, shows that buyers pay attention to the origin of raw materials; they want wheat to be Italian and pasta to be produced locally. They also look for recyclable and eco-friendly packaging with clear labels. As the organic market is full of opportunities nowadays, the Consortium is providing additional tools through this survey in order to help companies reach the consumer in the most effective way.
Pizza chef Gino Sorbillo focuses on pasta Gino Sorbillo, one of the world's most famous and most popular on social media pizza makers and most popular on social media, with eleven pizzerias in Italy, for a total of seventeen restaurants in Italy (under the Zia Esterina brand) and twenty around the world, is now offering pasta, exclusively Pasta di Gragnano PGI. According to the purest Neapolitan tradition, it is seasoned on the spot and to taste, with the same ingredients used to season his pizzas. «I wanted to open up to "more than just pizza" and focus on the other carb loved by Neapolitans. I wanted to create a fusion of pasta - exclusively from the Consorzio di Tutela della Pasta di Gragnano PGI, mixing ingredients and flavors» - said the famous pizza chef.
Why pasta is the prototype for green food As part of the “Let's talk about food&science” series of meetings, a work team from the Barilla Group describes in five points why pasta should be considered a sustainable food. First of all, Italian pasta makers promote supply chain agreements that integrate traditional techniques with precision agriculture in order to optimize soil consumption, costs, yields and wheat quality. Moreover, it should be remembered that only 3 litres of water are used to make 1 kilo of pasta. So, thanks to the packaging, pasta is more convenient to transport and store (moreover, packages are made to be 100% recyclable). It should also be added that pasta is part of the Mediterranean Diet, the greenest in the world because it drastically reduces gas emissions and saves about 2,000 litres of water a day. Finally, it can be made even more sustainable through alternative cooking methods that reduce its carbon footprint.
Alapala to acquire majority of the shares of Axor Alapala, a leading provider of turnkey wheat, semolina, maize and feed mills with over 700 successfully completed projects, and Axor, Italian pasta technology company delivering pasta production plants worldwide, will expand their strategic partnership to build integrated plants for the food industry. Developing products and solutions to meet needs in food technologies, Alapala continues to make investments to grow further. Alapala's new move took place in Italy, the leading country in the global pasta and pasta technologies industries. Alapala has acquired the majority of the shares of Axor to ensure a strong relationship with one of Italy's pioneering companies in pasta technologies.
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FACTS & NEWS
Growing demand for plant-based food Growth in the health-conscious population is a major factor contributing to the growth of the pulses market. As the climate has been changed and population growth, pulses are the key to sustainable food systems. Therefore, the food industry is turning to pulses to satisfy this demand. Plant-based foods are growing in popularity. Ingredients made from pulses are increasingly being used in food products. More and more people are cutting down on meat consumption. They change diets for a variety of reasons: environmental concerns that are detrimental to conventional animal husbandry; taking care of your own health or taking care of animals. In economically prosperous countries, a growing number of people are switching to plant foods, becoming vegans or flexitarians, and eating as little meat as possible.
Inevitable price increase it needs to be jointly managed
De Cecco turns 500,000 likes into a solidarity action
In the Food & Beverage sector, in view of rising energy costs and the pandemic impact on logistics, price increase is inevitable, but it must be jointly managed with the Italian government. This was said by Ivano Vacondio, Federalimentare's president. At the same time, increases are not linked to rising demand, but to other factors since sales are basically steady and far from profitable. The risk is a strong market downturn with serious consequences for companies, especially those that are less structured and, in general, on employment with further reductions in the purchasing power of consumers.
On World Pasta Day on 25 October, Can Yaman (photo above), a Turkish actor and testimonial of the latest De Cecco advertising campaigns, engaged in making an Amatriciana pasta dish on social platforms. After having mastered his skills, Yaman launched a solidarity initiative: for every like received by his video recipe, a packet of pasta would be donated by De Cecco to Banco Alimentare, the Italian non-profit organization that collects food for the most deprived people. A good 500,000 likes were received - since the 16th of November in Fara San Martino, the preparation of cargos that will be shipped to Banco Alimentare has been underway.
A new advertising campaign for Granoro Granoro is launching a new multi-channel advertising campaign, designed to emphasize its vision of the supply chain, which has characterized the historical pasta factory in Apulia for the past 10 years with the creation of "Dedicato", the type of pasta made with 100% Apulian wheat and involving over 340 farms in the region. The commercial was shot in the wheat fields in the Tavoliere delle Puglie area and in the typical places of the Murgia plateau. It is a message for consumers conveyed in a simple and authentic way, highlighting the values in which the company believes, enhancing the concept of a group of small entities that come together to achieve something big. The actors are actually the real protagonists of the "Granoro Dedicato" supply chain; in fact, the brand has involved its own employees and farmers in the commercial.
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October / December 2021
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Sustainable pest management in pasta production by Michele Ruzza Pest Management Advisor
Prevention - available through several actions - is the key for ecological pest control
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alking about pasta in Italy means retracing the history of this country, its evolution in terms of gastronomy and food and also talking about a food that unites us all in its various shapes. If the Roman philosopher Cicero praised làgana, i.e. the Latin term the name “lasagna” comes from, it is during the Middle Ages that different types of pasta that we can still enjoy today began to be created. Since then, pasta has spread all over the world, making the Italian industry a global market leader.
The organic market Over the last decade, the sale of organic products has recorded a
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constant and significant increase, reaching +133% (source Nomisma); obviously, organic pasta also falls within this market segment. In order to ensure proper regulation, in 2018 the European Union, with the approval of the European Parliament, issued Regulation (EU) no. 848/2018, which was meant to redefine the entire framework of organic production and labelling of organic products. Due to delays caused by the Covid-19 emergency, not all delegated acts and annexes were produced: for this reason, on 13 November 2020, Regulation (EU) no. 1693/2020 of the European Parliament was issued, postponing the application of the new Regulation (EU) no 848/2018 for one year.
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Integrated pest management in the pasta supply chain Before addressing the issue of pest control, it is essential for the entire pasta supply chain to fully develop the concept of Integrated Pest Management (IPM) for opportunistic and specific pests which - as for agriculture identifies a set of assessments, decisions and controls on pest management. Quality managers need to set up a technical/operational plan, in collaboration with experts in the field, starting with the correct design of working environments. Where this is not possible because of pre-existing structures, action should be taken by actively linking concepts and actions related to prevention, risk assessment, pest proofing (actions
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to limit the entry of pests) and pest monitoring (actions to monitor the presence of pests by means of specific equipment) and only if corrective actions are taken, should pest control measures be implemented (actions to control the verified presence of a pest). All these actions can be carried out directly by the company or outsourced to companies specialized in Pest management, provided that - as it can be understood from the guidelines of the latest voluntary standards, including Ifs Food V7 - control remains the responsibility of the quality manager of the production company or its officers (Requirement 4.13.3 Ifs V7: “Even if the pest control service is outsourced, responsibility for the necessary actions, including constant supervision of pest control activities, remains within the company”).
Sustainable pest control in the pasta supply chain Given that the key point for sustainable pest control is prevention, nowadays there are actions available that do not require the use of biocides in the various production and storage
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cycles, or a more rational and appropriate use of them. These actions can be identified as: preventive control methods, curative control methods and storage methods.
Preventive control methods Beneficial insects: a procedure adopted by agriculture, the biological control with beneficial insects is currently widespread in the organic production sector. Before embarking on a control plan with beneficial insects, it is essential to know the ethology of the pests as well as their predators/parasites, and to consider the production process in which the “launch” is to be carried out. It should be recalled that in some processing areas this system may be a problem due to the risk of contamination of foodstuffs with insect fragments. In order to initiate the correct management of a control plan with beneficial insects and to assess the best period for intervention, a thorough inspection of the food company is a priority, followed by a careful reading of monitoring data from previous seasons. Once this factor has been defined, “launches” must be carried out every Professional
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fortnight (minimum temperature: 15 °C), continuing monitoring (on a weekly basis) in order to assess possible corrective actions (extra launches) and standardize data for the development of control programs for the following season.
In the organic pasta supply chain pest control is only used for corrective actions Sexual confusion: as with the use of beneficial insects, sexual confusion is also a methodology imported from agriculture. This type of control makes it possible to limit lepidopteran infestations of foodstuffs in any area of a food company. The system is based on the release of female sex pheromones (Tda) which, by saturating the environment, cause adult males to be unable to mate and thus diminish the species. For proper control by means of sexual confusion, it is important that in the rooms where pheromone dispensers are applied there are
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no openings to the outside (pheromone dissipation), that new infested material is not introduced and that monitoring is carried out in order to carefully regulate the number and quantity of release systems within the rooms in case of absence or reduction in the number of captures. Mechanical means: in order to ensure pest control in processing plants, special machines known as “entolers” have been used for some years. This equipment that shall be placed in a strategic point of the production process, allows the destruction of any eggs that might be present in the raw material. Inert powders: they can be considered both a preventive pest control method and a curative method (usually combined with heat treatments). Two types of inert powders are currently used: fossilized algae (diatoms) and mineral powders (silica powders). Thanks to their small size (10-15 microns), these compounds are often applied in the crevices of silos and structures; through their mechanical action, they tear the cuticle of the insects, causing them to die through dehydration.
The systems of pheromone release must be registered as biocides Fumigation: in Italy this is regulated by the Royal Decree No.127 of 1947. Mainly used to treat cereals and other foodstuffs before processing, they are able to guarantee, depending on volume concentration (ppm), time (hours) and temperature (°C), the elimination of all the vital stages of the insect as well as an ovicidal activity. Fumigations are carried out by specialized companies.
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Curative control methods Heat: most food-specific pests live in an “optimum” between 28 and 30 °C and relative humidity of approximately 70-80%. An upward shift in temperature resulting in decreased relative humidity leads to a delay in development and even to the death of the insect. Based on this criterion, this is the most widely spread method of pest control for companies working in the organic pasta supply chain and it is carried out using electrically powered unit heaters. In fact, in order to achieve mortality at any development stage of the pest (egg, larva, pupa and adult), it is necessary to bring all the areas concerned in the room to an average temperature above 45 °C for at least 36-48 hours. Obviously, in order to guarantee the outcome, as well as carefully calculating the airspace of the rooms, the flow of heat distribution and the protection of areas with heat loss, the pest control company must also carefully assess the material that makes up the structure and the Professional
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production lines, in order to avoid expansion or damage to them. Given the complexity of the process, pest management companies that are specialized in this area have developed operating protocols that guarantee a safe result. Low temperatures: as for high temperatures, low temperatures slow down the development of arthropods until they die. However, this system is mainly intended for foodstuffs storage, as opposed to actual treatments in production facilities. Provided that arthropods die in a range from 0 °C to -18 °C in decreasing hours/days depending on species and temperature (Cotton and Wilbur, 1974), it is necessary to have dedicated rooms with an optimal refrigeration system to achieve the goal (no pest in stored foodstuffs), where it is certain that the same temperature level is reached throughout the room. Biocides: in the past, any insecticide could be used in food companies, but today the use of biocides is strictly linked to the
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permission specified on the label. Currently, the main treatments are carried out with products based on natural pyrethrum or synthetic pyrethroids without Piperonyl Butoxide (PBO).
Storage methods (Controlled atmosphere)
are stored and replace it with carbon dioxide up to a minimum value of about 70.0%, for a period from 7 to 21 days, depending on the environmental conditions. Preservation treatments can be carried out on raw materials directly in the product storage silos. In this case,
the gas must be brought to a gaseous state by means of suitable heating systems and then placed in the silos. Given that the silos have numerous interstitial spaces where the gas can escape to the outside, saturation level can hardly be higher than 60-65%.
A modified atmosphere is used to remove pests by reducing oxygen (O2) and replacing it with carbon dioxide (CO2) or nitrogen (N2). The system can be used to control raw materials as well as semi-finished and finished products; moreover, it guarantees an ovicidal activity. Due to the complexity of modified atmosphere management, services are performed by highly specialized companies. The elimination of insects by means of atmospheres modified with CO2 takes place through the use of carbon dioxide E290, which allows for the treatment of both raw materials and processed products. The aim is to progressively reduce the oxygen in the places in which foodstuffs
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Furthermore, in order to maintain this level of concentration, it is necessary to have systems that continue to keep it stable (flowmeters) for a period varying from 7 to 21 days, depending not only on external climate conditions, but also on the target insect and its life stage. Carbon dioxide can also be used on raw materials, as well as on finished products, by means of special treatment cells. In this case, it is possible to build real chambers, with no cracks and therefore no gas leak, in which to place the material to be treated. Lastly, for the preservation and care of any products, it is possible to carry out preservation and care treatments directly on big bags or on the pallets of packaged products (“Evoluzione servizi srl” method). Unlike carbon dioxide, which causes interactions with various systems, modifies proteins, carbohydrates etc., and inhibits enzymatic activity, nitrogen (N2) makes arthropods die by asphyxiation. Having identified a different action, nitrogen control requires concentrations close to 99% with
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an average exposure time between 8 and 22 days. Due to the level of concentration to be reached, this method is not applicable to silos and is usually applied in appropriately equipped and fixed cells.
Conclusions Based on what has been briefly discussed, in pasta production it is possible to take action in every sector of the supply chain with pest control without the use of synthetic products or with an increasingly well-considered use of the same, always starting from a correct Risk Analysis approach. For organic pasta it would be appropriate to develop a “Biological Integrated Pest Management” approach for postproduction pests, while competent authorities should draw up a protocol and a unique guideline with a view to an increasingly focused and dedicated development of organic pasta (as for all organic products). Michele Ruzza michele.ruzza@colkim.it
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References • www.nomisma.it • www.echa.europa.eu • www.eur-lex.europa.eu • www.tg24.sky.it • Pasta alimentare da agricoltura biologica - Bando di ricerca e Sperimentazione L.R. 37/99 - Dgr. 1234/05 - Cermis. • Evoluzione del pest control nella filiera alimentare. D. Di Domenico. Ed. Accademiche Italiane. • Manuale pratico per il monitoraggio e riconoscimento degli insetti infestanti le industrie alimentari vol. I. M. Pagani, S. Savoldelli, A. Schiapparelli. Ed. Sinergithec società cooperativa. • Manuale pratico per il monitoraggio e riconoscimento degli insetti infestanti le industrie alimentari vol. II. M. Pagani, S. Savoldelli, A. Schiapparelli. Ed. Sinergithec società cooperativa. • Manuale di agricoltura. S. Amicabile - Ed. Hoepli. • I parassiti delle derrate. L. Süss, D. P. Locatelli. Ed. Calderini Edagricole. • Gli infestanti nelle industrie alimentari. L. Süss, P. Guerra. Ed. Avenue media. • Corsi di formazione avanzata “infestalia”.
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“Draw me like one of your maccheroni” by Andrea Maraschi Postdoctoral Researcher, Interuniversity Research Center “Seminary of the History of Science”, University of Bari; Lecturer in Anthropology of Food Department of Agricultural and Food Sciences - University of Bologna
Italians and pasta through time and art
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he history of Italian cuisine is the history of pasta. This, at least, is what one would assume on the basis of how popular such a product has become in the daily lives of Italian people. One could safely say that pasta is now considered an “identity marker” for the country, that is, a food which Italians are happy to associate themselves with, a positive attribute of their nationality, a product which synthetizes their story. What is more, Italians are identified as “pasta eaters” by foreigners as well, which contributes to reinforce such a connection. As it happens with clichés (or with broken clocks, for that matter), there is a layer of truth behind such an assumption, but the history of pasta is way more complex than one would think. For instance, one
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(1) Vermicelli. According to written and iconographic sources, they have been produced since at least the thirteenth century
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Photo courtesy of Andrea Maraschi - Public domain
(2) Illustration of Boccaccio’s Bengodi by an anonymous artist (ca. 1700). Archivio Libreria Antiquaria Bourlot – Turin. Argonitros (via Wikimedia Commons)
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has to bear in mind that the success of pasta - similarly to the success of other products elsewhere - is a story of need and hunger, not certainly of high cuisine. Pasta earned a central role in the diet of Italians due to a series of unfortunate circumstances, and firstly in the southern regions: Naples, in particular. After the brutal plague of 1656, the Neapolitan population began to grow again and, during the XVIII century, the city was inhabited by ca. 400,000 or even 450,000 people. This resulted in a condition of extreme poverty for a large portion of society, which drastically affected their diet. That was the moment when Neapolitans - usually addressed as Professional
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“mangiafoglie”, “vegetable-eaters” until then - began to be called “mangiamaccheroni”, “pastaeaters”. In fact, pasta (accompanied by tomato sauce) became their staple food, but one has to wait until the Expedition of the Thousand (in the following century) for this dish to become a cornerstone of the whole - now united - country. Whether there is no doubt, then, that the central role of pasta in Italian diet stemmed from lower class cuisine, this has not prevented it from becoming a star in high cuisine as well. In fact, the founder of Italian high cuisine, Gualtiero Marchesi, took Andy Warhol’s portraits of Marilyn Monroe in the
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diptych as inspiration for his “Le quattro paste” dish. It was the year 2000, and Marchesi decided to celebrate the saintly-like dignity of pasta as a manifesto of his idea of cuisine: four types of dry pasta (fusilli, spaghetti, pastina and paccheri), simply flavoured with olive oil and grated pecorino. It is pasta at its simplest level, and elevates its story of poverty and anxiety for hunger to the highest stage possible: pasta has now become pop art.
It took time for pasta to become an identity marker for Italy A noble past(a) When thinking about pasta in art history, one might stumble upon the so-called “macaroni art”, which has nothing to do with pasta, however (it addresses a Late Paleolithic elementary form of art made with finger tracing in clay). In this case, the term “macaroni” is used because said tracings “look like” actual macaroni. However, there are traces of pasta and pastamaking in iconographic sources from the distant past, as far back as the late Middle Ages. No European cookbooks have survived from the Early and High Middle Ages, but when Western society began to rapidly grow in the new Millennium, the first manuscripts at our disposal suggest that pasta was already an important protagonist of high cuisine at the time. Among such works was the first Italian cookbook, the Liber de coquina, which was produced at the Angevine court of Naples and was probably based on a previous work which circulated at the court of Frederick II. Pasta did not taste as it does today (medieval cuisine was fond of sweet-and-sour dishes), but
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it was made very similarly (1). In fact, one notes that pasta was already being made in various forms such as croseti, vermicelli, tortelli, ravioli and so forth. After centuries of silence and dark, suddenly cookbooks cast light on a tradition that must have been a few centuries old. Some manuscript miniatures show women making vermicelli-like pasta, which can be considered a forefather of spaghetti. Being an elite dish, pasta was flavoured as it was suitable for refined palates. And it is safe to assume that Italians would not like a typical medieval dish of pasta most probably. First of all, because it was not properly prepared “al dente”: it was usually cooked for longer. Besides, it was flavoured with spices such as saffron and cinnamon, as well as with sugar, herbs and the likes.
Dream food Pasta - duly seasoned, that is - was part of the utopias of fourteenthcentury Italians. In a well-known novella of his Decameron, Giovanni Boccaccio describes the legendary land of plenty called “Bengodi” (also known as “Cuccagna”), where all sorts of desirable foods were inexhaustible and ready to be eaten. Among them was a mountain of grated cheese atop which could be found a cauldron filled with maccheroni (in this case, the term likely stands for a gnocchilike pasta) and ravioli. They were being cooked in meat broth, and every now and then, someone flipped the pot and had the pasta informaggiarsi (season with the cheese) while it rolled down the side of the hill (2). It is a dream meal in a dream land, and we are pretty far from the story of poverty we have recalled earlier. But please note: this was because of the meat broth and of the stuffing. The dish described by Boccaccio is one for “giorni di grasso”, that is, not for Lenten days. And it still is: on feasts such as Christmas and Easter, Professional
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tortellini or cappelletti filled with meat and cooked in capon broth are absolute protagonists in some parts of the Italian peninsula. They identify the feast because they are accompanied by meat: without the latter, the dream would be less desirable. Dry unstuffed pasta is more commonly associated with normal days.
The myth of the Mediterranean Diet When in the 1960s Margaret and Ancel Keys introduced the Mediterranean Diet, they had in mind a diet which was based on Mediterranean vegetables, fruits, legumes and fish - which makes total sense from a health - and geographic-related perspective. However, one should not mistake the Mediterranean diet for “the diet which people living around the Mediterranean basin had long loved and craved for”. The Mediterranean Diet is poor in animal proteins, which has not been exactly a virtue in historical terms. On the contrary, Mediterranean people (Italians included) would have gladly consumed as much meat as they could, if only it had been possible. It is no wonder, then, that when the
(3) Luca Giordano, “Allegory of taste”, oil on canvas. Public domain (via Wikimedia Commons)
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(4) Napolitan lazzaro eating macaroni. Etching, 1690
iconographic motif of the “mangiamaccheroni” spreads in the seventeenth century, not only it does because pasta consumption is an essential component of southern Italian diet at that point, but because - most importantly - it has become a symbol of lower-class cuisine in the meantime. Mathias Stomer and Luca Giordano, among others, left us portraits of typical “pasta eaters”, who use their fingers to take pasta into their mouths (3). Both painters lived in Naples around the half of the century, and must have observed such a scene many a time if they decided to fix it in time and…art. With their paintings, the two artists took an actual picture of a phase of transition: pasta is for the poor, clearly, and is still “white” - no sign of tomato sauce, yet. Other artists, such as the Neapolitan painter Domenico Gargiulo, would go even further, and would depict beggars
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eating pasta with their hands just in the middle of the streets, not unlike animals. An etching from 1690 (one of the earliest of its kind) shows a so-called lazzarone (“beggar”) as he is about to eat long pasta: a stereotypical pose which is accompanied by the caption mangia bene, “eat well”. (4) A few decades later, macaroni must have broken into the hearts of Neapolitans (more in general) if painter Giacomo Nani placed them at the centre of his beautiful “Still life” (Palazzo Reale, Naples), between a pie, meat, pears, poultry and other - surely not poor - foods. Here, macaroni are still white and seasoned with grated cheese, but they seem to play the main role in the menu. Be that as it may, it is still a sign that pasta was mainly a Neapolitan favourite at the time, and it would remain such until the XIX century.
and another operator rotated a big screw which pressed the cylinder itself. As a result, vermicelli came out of the machine and rested in a basket placed on the floor. As fascinating as such a machine could look, its most important role was to make pasta much cheaper and thus more affordable for the poor. This made such a product even more critical for lower-class people, and contributed to turning it into the proper staple of common people. (5)
More pasta, faster
All that being said, there is no better representations of Italian mangiamaccheroni than actual pictures taken in more recent times. Surprisingly, they closely reflect the reality which painters had long been capturing along the streets of Naples. As shown in this late-XIX-century shot, lower classes were still consuming pasta in pretty much the same way as their ancestors had been doing in the previous three hundred years (6). Once again, before the observer’s eyes unfolds a story of poverty, of
Among the factors which ignited the spread of pasta in the seventeenth century was the development of machines to produce it industrially. Proper instruments for pasta extrusion surface in art history at around 1615, when Niccolò Cini paints a pasta press to make vermicelli. This was one of the more common types of pasta, if even Maestro Martino da Como, one of the most important chefs of the fifteenth century, had meticulously described how to make such worm-like pieces of dough. The first detailed description of how a pasta factory actually worked dates from the following century, however, and can be found in Paul-Jacques Malouin’s Art du vermicelier (1767). After visiting Naples, the French physician began producing vermicelli in his native country, and illustrated how this type of pasta was produced at the time. An operator kneaded pasta by moving up and down while seated on a long bar. The kneaded pasta was then placed in a cylinder, Professional
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The success of pasta is a story of hunger and need, and art clearly shows it The art of maccheroni, the art of poverty
(5) Making pasta in an illustration from ca. 1800. Unknown author (Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons)
October / December 2021
PASTA & ART
Popular culture
(6) A maccheronaio in Naples. Photochrom print by Photoglob Zürich, ca. 1890-1900. From the Photochrom Prints Collection at the Library of Congress
people who dream of Bengodi while living a harsh reality. Harsh, for sure, but also quite common: hunger motivated Neapolitans to make pasta a typical product unwillingly. (7) A few years ago, Gualtiero Marchesi said that tradition is nothing else than successful innovation: successful because it eventually turns out to be good (i.e., tasty). A dish becomes “typical” when it can be elevated to the level of myth, when - that is - it is able to evoke the same exact feeling in many people. A feeling which many recognize as being the same, and as being pleasant. Every dish and, in general, every cuisine is comparable to art, Marchesi continued, and in order to identify a community it must represent and embody the historical period in which it is produced: it is a work of art which contains the past but looks forward to the future. And, in fact, the myth is such when it stands the test of time and… space. Neapolitans would transfer the art of pasta making to the U.S.A, not only because that allowed them to make ends meet, but also because it let them be what they were: Neapolitans, Italians. It felt like home when one could make and eat pasta even in the New World.
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If popular culture is “the set of practices, beliefs, and objects that embody the most broadly shared meanings of a social system” (as Oxford Bibliographies puts it), then it is safe to say that, during the XX century, pasta became an absolute protagonist in this branch of Italian culture as well. Since popular culture includes entertainment, trends, and conventions which are represented in films and TV series, one can hardly fail to remember than one of the most iconic scenes of Italian cinema is Alberto Sordi’s immortal “Maccarone…m’hai provocato e io te distruggo, maccarone! Io me te magno” from 1954 movie “Un americano a Roma”. The dish he is going to (literally) “destroy” (i.e., devour) is not merely pasta and tomato sauce, but a carbonara, one of the absolute favourites of Italian popular cuisine (and one of the most mistreated ones over the internet, if one recalls the Youtube recipe for a “Carbonara à la française” which upset and shocked Italians about five years ago). Alberto Sordi’s cult scene is itself a manifesto of how hard it is, for Italians, to do without their food-
(7) Giorgio Sommer, Macaroni eaters, Naples, ca. 1880
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related identity markers. They are so fundamental that one of Sordi’s most important artistic heirs, Carlo Verdone, could not resist the urge to eat a dish of spaghetti which was accidentally dropped on the floor in 1989 movie “Il bambino e il
A dish becomes “typical” when it is elevated to the level of myth poliziotto”. Besides, Verdone has often depicted Italians living abroad (such as in Germany or Belgium) and struggling with foreign food, missing their beloved pasta. In a time of political correctness as today, stereotypes can be often (mis)interpreted as being offensive, but this was no issue a few decades ago, when the brilliant writer, director and actor Paolo Villaggio crystallized in the character of accountant Ugo Fantozzi every possible commonplace of average Italian middle-class of the 70s. His stories are snapshots of Italian culture which are totally consistent with what has been seen so far, and tell a much older story than it might seem at first sight. As soon as he has got home from work, Fantozzi expects a bowl of pasta on his table, possibly a football match to watch, and nothing else. Irony is a virtue, both when directed towards oneself and the others - even when based on clichés. Even broken clocks are right twice a day, aren’t they? And so, it is no wonder that, just a few months ago, Italian footballer Leonardo Bonucci trolled England fans telling them to “eat more pasta” after Italy’s Euro 2020 win. Italians are such because they eat pasta, right? And they are good at football because they do so. Well, kind of. Andrea Maraschi
October / December 2021
FOOD LAW
Mustard alert in flour products by Giuseppe Maria Durazzo Lawyer expert in Food Law
A condition that does not help food operators who are victims of a complex regulatory situation
T
he issue of mustard as an allergen in flour products is taking the form of a personalistic challenge in the current legal debate, which risks taking us out of food law. This situation does not help food operators who, once again, find themselves managing a complex regulatory situation, between trade needs and the usual media pressure. In simple terms, mustard is considered an allergen under EU regulations. Allergens must be mentioned in the label if they are intentionally used in food production and it is good practice to indicate their possible presence when, even if unintentionally, one fears their presence. This practice leads to the use of voluntary information. There is no standard on how to intentionally indicate the possible unintended presence
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October / December 2021
FOOD LAW
of the allergen; despite the position taken at Codex, discussions continue to be rekindled from time to time. In short, the ordinary allergen rules apply to mustard. The question arises as to the origin of the current dense debate if, in the end, there are no new regulatory elements; therefore, one may wonder whether there is anything concealed, and if so, what it is.
Regulations From a legal point of view, Regulation (EU) 1169/2011 recognizes “Mustard and mustard products” as a substance or product causing allergy or intolerance. The EFSA study (EFSA 2014/3894) shows that the allergen that has been studied is mustard itself, but also products obtained from the processing of mustard seeds.
October / December 2021
Professional
PASTA
When dealing with mustard allergens, EFSA mentions the following plants: white/yellow mustard (Sinapis alba L. or Brassica Alba), black mustard (Brassica nigra L.), brown/oriental mustard (Brassica juncea L.), all from the Brassicaceae family (previously classified as Cruciferae).
Allergenicity tests concern the plant parts of mustard According to official EU documents, Brassica nigra oil is listed in the Union’s novel food list as a substance that appeared before 15 May, 1997 and therefore excluded from the novel food regulation.
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FOOD LAW
Brassica juncea (Indian mustard) belongs to the same legal category for both seeds and leaves. While the seeds are the part of Sinapis alba L. or Brassica Alba that is traditionally used, as per Annex I of the Italian Ministerial Decree 10/8/18 (on the use of vegetable substances and preparations in food supplements as updated by Decree 9 January 2018 and most recently by Decree 26 July 2019). And it was precisely to Sinapis Alba L. that were associated
Traces of mustard have been found mainly in Italian flours the following characteristics in 2008, while listing the traditionally known functions, such as the “consolid botanicals trad use”, from which the claims on products of botanical origin were supposed to derive: “Contributes to appetite/helps to support the digestion/helps to support the digestive juice flow/contributes to the gastrointestinal movement”. If it is not explicitly stated, one can assume that the food part of any type of “mustard” is the seed and the oil
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obtained from it, rather than leaves and seeds, or seeds alone. From this one can reasonably further assume that allergenicity tests relate to the food parts of these plants.
Why mustard in flour Therefore, the analysis to exclude the presence of mustard allergen should be able to scrutinize the reference plant and then any presence of the allergen in the food part of that plant. The first novelty is maybe the astonishment of finding “mustard” (as identified above) in the flour, and perhaps also in repeated and relevant quantities. In the same way, it seems somewhat peculiar that mustard particles (seeds or leaves, or what other part of the plant?) are unexpectedly to be found in wheat and its derivatives and not in other agricultural products, except for spices and byproducts, at least if one looks at the public information in the Rasff catalogue. The large number of mustard findings almost exclusively concerns flour produced in Italy, which is a further point to reflect upon. As a legal reference, it is known that the analytical methods recognized by EFSA (EFSA 2014/3894) are the enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and PCR. The Canadian authority Professional
PASTA
addressed the issue we are debating already in 2016 and again in 2019 (“Information for Canadians with mustard allergies”). At that time, Health Canada considered that mustard had been mistaken for rapeseed in the past: “This conclusion is in agreement with visual observations of cereals harvested on the Canadian soil, and with the fact that the amount of rapeseed grown in Canada is much higher than that of mustard”. The Canadian Authority then concluded: “It is not appropriate for food producers to place a warning such as “may contain mustard” on wheat flour or other grain-based foods. In addition, due to the absence of any reports of reported adverse reactions associated with the unintended presence of canola in cereals and the fact that the investigation revealed only low levels of canola in the samples tested, Health Canada does not recommend the use of any other precautionary statements such as “may contain canola” for the incidental presence of canola in cereals.
The solution in terms of communication With its typical pragmatism, following controls that lasted several years, the Canadian authority indicates the solution in terms of information provided to consumers on the allergen risk, not dealing with other issues that might have further room for discussion in old Europe. Across the border, the
October / December 2021
FOOD LAW
Swiss approach is also interesting (Decree No. 817/022.16), which states in Article 11: “Allergen ingredients must also be indicated when they have not been mixed voluntarily and have unintentionally contaminated a foodstuff (unintentional mixing or contamination), provided that their content, in relation to the final product, exceeds or may exceed the following quantities: omissis e) For all other cases: 1 g per kilogram or liter of foodstuff ready for consumption”.
Unintended presence: in Switzerland, threshold value for mandatory information Not only does the federal government introduce a threshold value for the obligation to provide information in cases of adventitious presence, which in particular also applies to mustard, but it also gives substance to a principle that is only hinted at in EU law in the case of allergens that do not cause allergies or any other allergic reactions, stating: “If it can be proven that individual ingredients, made from ingredients listed in Annex 6, do not cause allergies or any other
undesirable reactions, it is not compulsory to indicate them in accordance with paragraphs 1, 3 and 5”.
Conclusions In my opinion, it is too early to draw legal conclusions, since it seems to me that there are major shortcomings in the legal definition of mustard as well as a lack of harmonization in the field of analysis, resulting in costly research into this allergen and possibly other undesirable plants, with all the implications that this entails, without achieving valuable results, if not only formally, in order to satisfy various accreditation procedures. In this framework consumers’ interest should be protected against risks that the lawmaker has deemed present and significant, a legal context that appears to be quite
approximate today, as the current debate shows, so many years after the first regulation on allergens (provided for in Directive 2003/89/EC). Going back to the heated discussions between brilliant colleagues on this topic, I tend to remember that disagreement in doctrine is a normal thing - as it should be in every act of civil life -, therefore I must express my opinion here about the fact that reasoned considerations about allergens, professionally advising one approach rather than another, constitutes a legitimate and dutiful commitment that the scholar assumes on the basis of his knowledge and experience, even when advice may prove to be contradicted by subsequent decisions. The advocatus, as it was taught long before the magnificent ethical codes in force, is the one called upon to help; he is the one who is normally asked to intervene in cases that otherwise appear unsolvable. The issue of mustard, its genetic traces on certain food matrices, both for the questionable aspects of public health and for the correctness of commercial transactions, is a subject of a certain complexity and professionalism not only for the advocatus, but also for the lawmaker, for the public authority of scientific advice and for the public offices that oversee the matter. Giuseppe Maria Durazzo
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PASTA
October / December 2021
SUPPLIER NEWS
Industry 4.0 and IoT, Storci is a step ahead of his competitors
T
he Fourth Industrial Revolution (or Industry 4.0) is the ongoing automation of traditional manufacturing and industrial practices, using modern smart technology. The internet of things (IoT), improved communication and self-monitoring, that can analyze and diagnose issues without the need for human intervention, is integrated in this process. Industry 4.0. basically, refers to a trend of industrial automation,
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integrating new technologies to improve working conditions, create new business models and increase capacity and performance of plants. Storci, earlier than Italian Government and European Union urged Italian companies to upgrade the technology of their plants and comply with the new requirements, had already grasped all the evolution that the system was facing and the consequent effect on our sector. The laws issued about this subject
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PASTA
required, as a minimum prerequisite, that machines were network connected and production data could be extracted for a greater traceability. The Storci’s machines already met these conditions, we had gone further, indeed. Our competitors, in fact, had conformed only with the basic European rules whereas we had already made a breakthrough, planning a system able to collect the data referred to our customers’ machines - not basic
October / December 2021
SUPPLIER NEWS
and essential data, but a great deal of information - that, thanks to a series of devices, was memorized in a cloud and remotely analysed. We have been able, thus, to create a system that can intelligently elaborate the data to reach a real predicting method: on the base of data analysed, in fact, we can foresee some situations that might occur concerning the control of the line or machine. Those events can be related to wear, corrosion, consumption, lack or wrong maintenance, malfunctioning etc. with the possibility to carry out interventions, where needed, and consequently preventing possible downtimes. This information can be evaluated and available to the technical department, to be used for several purposes such as improving the project phase, examining only the data regarded as essential. All the back-up process has developed. We had to manage a great bulk of figures, all different because specific for each customer; notwithstanding, we succeeded in making it compatible with all the systems of
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each pasta factory. Today, data collected from every machine, whose back-up was already possible, are saved in our cloud, as mentioned before, where they are classified and monitored, all over the world. Thanks to this system, in case of need, our technicians can intervene without being physically on the spot and the company can monitor each situation, like the alarms status and the production phase. We have also created specific working stations, undergoing further
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evolution, to give remote technical assistance to the customer. With the help of detectors and webcams, Storci staff can pilot the technician of the pasta factory, wherever he is. We are aware of the important advantage we have, compared to competitors and we will try to exploit it to the full, to meet the need of clientele well conscious that pasta-making needs respect for tradition as well as keeping up with technology.
October / December 2021
HISTORICAL NEWS
Pacific Macaroni
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head5. In 1930, the Los Angeles Macaroni Company built a two story, 40,000 square foot (3,715 square meters) manufacturing facility in the Central Manufacturing District of Los Angeles, which included a distribution capability anda private switch track for rail service6. In 1941, the Golden Age Corporation acquired the Los Angeles Pacific Macaroni as a way to expand their markets in the West Coast7. Golden Age continued selling the Gold Medal brand in the Los Angeles factory, as well as adding their flagship brand Golden Age8. Spaghetti eating contests were popular in the United States and in August 1930, the Los Angeles Pacific Macaroni Company awarded the first-place trophy to the winner of the "Newsboys' Spaghetti-Eating Speed Contest", which took place at the Angeleno Café on Sunset Boulevard in Los
Angeles9. The 15-year-old champ downed a pound (0,45 kilograms) of spaghetti, 250 yards (228,6 meters) in total, in 56 seconds flat10. Hollywood actress and singer Jeanette Loff initiated the event with a starter pistol11. There were other companies using the name Pacific Macaroni. Pacific Coast Macaroni in Seattle, Washington was initially formed by three cousins Joseph Merlino, Timbario Madonna and John Madonna, who went door-to-door to sell their pasta directly to customers in the Italian section of town12. Guido Merlino soon joined the firm and they established the brand Three Monks in 192613. Through several mergers and acquisitions, it became part of the Golden Grain Macaroni Company in 195614. Additionally, there was the Pacific Macaroni Factory in Hilo, Hawaii15. Leonard J. DeFrancisci National Pasta Association History Committee
IMAGE CREDIT P. & A. PHOTO
T
he Pacific Macaroni Company in Los Angeles, California was originally located on 815 South Alameda Street. The original founding of the company was lost to history, but in 1919, Laurence Faure and Salvatore Nunziato became the proprietors1. Pacific Macaroni produced Liberty and Gold Medal Egg Noodles, two brands made from 100% semolina. The company advertised noodles made from, "Fresh California ranch eggs", an appeal to shoppers interested in products using local, organic ingredients, qualities that would resonate well with many even today2. The company also advertised their products were made in a, "Sanitary factory, untouched by human hands"3. Highlighting sanitary conditions at the point of production was in keeping with the current food trends of the time and how food was made was important in the mind of the consumer. One of the first images many Italian-Americans saw as they came to America was Lady Liberty, the symbol of freedom in the New World. As they entered New York Harbor, ships full of eager immigrants sailed by the mighty colossus who greeted them on their way to the nearby immigration facilities at Ellis Island. During World War I, Liberty bonds were popular (and highly advertised) and Pacific Macaroni capitalized on the patriotic spirit of the day by using the name "Liberty" for their brand4. In 1928, the Pacific Macaroni Company and the United States Macaroni Company merged with the Los Angeles Pacific Macaroni Company with Nunziato as its
Spaghetti eating contest with Hollywood star Jeanette Loff standing behind table
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October / December 2021
HISTORICAL NEWS
IMAGE CREDIT: TRAUNG LABEL CO. FOR PACIFIC MACARONI CO., LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA (DIGITIZED BY LEONARD J. DEFRANCISCI)
References 1 "Macaroni Trade Notes", Simmons' Spice Mill, The Spice Mill Publishing Company, New York, New York, volume XLII, number 12 (December 1919), 1808. 2 "Gold Medal Semolina Egg Noodles" advertisement, Hollywood Daily Citizen, Hollywood, California, volume 23, number 155 (September 29, 1927), 5. 3 Ibid. 4 "Liberty Loan Building History", United States General Services Administration, last modified on September 5, 2019, https://www.gsa.gov/realestate/gsa-properties/visiting-public -buildings/liberty-loan-federalbuilding/whats-inside/liberty-loan-b uilding-history. 5 "Paste Food Plant Near Completion", Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles, California, volume XLIX (September 14, 1930), part V, page 5. 6 Ibid.
Liberty label, circa 1923
7 "Golden Age Acquires Local Firm", Hollywood Citizen-News, Hollywood, California, volume 37, number 41 (May 17, 1941), 10.
12 John J. Redding, "Joe Merlino-Still Making Spaghetti Today", Seattle Daily Times, Seattle, Washington (April 12, 1965).
8 Ibid.
13 Official Gazette of the United States Patent Office, December 1932, United States Government Printing Office, volume 425 (1933), 647. Note: serial number 330,805 for Pacific Coast Macaroni Mfg. Co. claimed use since March 1, 1926.
9 "Refueling Record Broken", Los Angeles Times, volume XLIX (August 26, 1930), part II, page 3. 10 Ibid. 11 Ibid.
14 Keith Ervin, "Guido Merlino, Macaroni King And Pillar Of Italian Community", The Seattle Times, Seattle, Washington, December 2, 1991, https://archive.seattletimes.com/arch ive/?date=19911202&slug=1320622. 15 "Macaroni is Made in Hilo", Hilo Tribune Herald, Hilo, Hawaii, volume XII, number 238 (October 17, 1934), 1 (9).
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