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Rice pasta versus noodles
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Lockdown brought pasta with tuna
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What will happen after Covid-19: starvation? by Delia Maria Sebelin
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Pros and cons of rice pasta
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TRENDS
Lockdown brought pasta with tuna
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EDITORIAL
What will happen after Covid-19: starvation? by Delia Maria Sebelin
April / June 2020
«I
don’t know what we will die of one day, but we will not die from starvation during this terrible crisis». With these words, Ivano Vacondio, president of Italy’s food and beverage federation (Federalimentare), summarized the situation of production and distribution in Italy and in the world of made-in-Italy food products the last well-known health emergency. Even if production have been maintained in countries like Italy, analysts warn there may be further
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disruption ahead if border controls clog motorways, deterring drivers from delivering products. Food is a priority and things should be moving freely. Following the journey of pasta from farm to fork illustrates all the processes that will need to be kept running during the coronavirus outbreak. Like many foodstuffs, pasta relies on a highly complex international supply chain, often passing through several countries on the way to consumers’ plates. Let’s think, for example, to the UK. Most of pasta eaten in that
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EDITORIAL
country is made from wheat shipped from Canada, which is then processed by companies such as Barilla and De Cecco in Italy. After being transported by trucks through Europe, UK wholesale distributors, such as Princes, sell it on to supermarkets. If we close our borders to food moving, what could happen?
A strong EU needs a strong agriculture
fork. A huge development and incentive plan for agriculture would be good for EU in order to increase productivity by introducing innovation, which is actually being held back. Investments must be made by using European financial mechanisms. According to some economist, the new CAP must be reshaped after the unexpected return to the past in society, in the economy and in the Europeans’
lives. We must have the courage to support the primary sector, also for strategic security reasons. The time has come to stop chasing smoky dreams of alternative agriculture as the result of anti-science or short-sighted rules on agricultural practices. We must return to sustainable and advanced agriculture, supported by true scientific progress. This is how the recovery and the social stability will be helped. A strong Europe needs a strong agriculture. Those who want to relaunch the agricultural system have good reasons for that, but they are wrong if they think that we have to lock ourselves up and consume only food produced inside each Country borders, because there wouldn’t be enough and because Countries like Italy, Germany and France would lose export incomes. A protectionist position would have a double negative effect of making inside produced food rarer and more expensive. Let us not forget that if EU played Trump’s game, Europe would provoke retaliations from world’s partners against its food gems that it export with pride and profit. Delia Maria Sebelin
This is the reason why we should learn from the crisis that people need to cooperate on food all over the world. «Let’s think to us and do not care about the others», does not seem to be the right way to face next economic crysis. We have been living dark days due to coronavirus and the whole world lockdown. Thinking about recovery is the key. We cannot make mistakes. So, where should we start? A good idea about Europe should be to start from the farm, so to be sure to “have enough” to arrive to the
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FACTS & NEWS
Flags and pasta against Covid Green, white and red: Barilla wrapped its mills and factories across Italy, from Parma to Foggia, from Rubbiano to Castiglione delle Stiviere, from Melfi to Ascoli Piceno. A sign of closeness, pride and encouragement to the Italians and to the communities the Group is part of. «The coronavirus led Italians to a rare display of patriotism», Global Media Relations & Digital VP at Barilla Group, Mr. Luca Di Leo, wrote from his LinkedIN page. «I had not seen so many flags and representations of the green, white and red Italian colors since the postwar soccer World Cup victories (1982 and 2006). The colours of the Italian flag are beautiful and often related to the most popular Italian food and recipes for pasta and pizza (Margherita has the red tomatoes, white mozzarella and green basil). There are several interpretations of what the colors of the Italian flag mean, but the most common is that green symbolizes hope or the Italian landscape; white is for faith or the snow capping Italy's mountains; and red is for love or the bloodshed that brought about Italian independence and unification. During these turbulent times, patriotism can help by giving a sense of purpose».
New tool discovered to fight Fusarium The Agricultural Research Service (Ars) of the US Department of Agriculture (Usda) has discovered a gene that can be used to develop varieties of wheat that will be more resistant to Fusarium head blight (FHB). FHB, also known as scab, is caused by a fungal pathogen (Fusarium graminearum) and results in wheat loss. According to the ARS, when the pathogen grows unchecked in infected grains, it releases mycotoxins that can induce vomiting in humans, as well as weight loss in livestock when they refuse to eat the grains. The researchers found that the FHB7 gene effectively reduces FHB by detoxifying the mycotoxins secreted by the pathogen. The gene also confers resistance to crown rot, a wheat disease caused by a related pathogen. New varieties of wheat with better FHB resistance using FHB7 are expected to be available in a few years, the researchers said.
Romania suspends non-Eu grain exports The government of Romania suspended most exports of grains, oilseeds and related products to markets outside of the Eu, according to a report from the Foreign Agricultural Service of the Us Department of Agriculture. Deliveries can continue within the Eu as long as trading partners guarantee that the commodities will be consumed within the Eu and not re-exported. The government made the decision due to the coronavirus and growing concerns about the winter crop’s impact from drought. «The objective is to ensure Romanian food security, amid increasing fears that grain and oilseed stocks will run low due to exports», the Usda said. Romania usually exports a large percentage of its grain and oilseed crops. In 2019-20, exports were expected to increase 1.4% from its record exports of 12.9 million tonnes in 2018-19.
Pasta straws: a good eco-friendly idea In an effort to cut down on ocean plastic, the European Union voted to ban single-use plastic items throughout the EU by 2021. This includes plastic straws, which take up around 4% of the world’s plastic pollution. People around the world are using alternatives to plastic such as bamboo, glass, and pasta straws. Some bars in Italy have already started serving their drinks with environmentally friendly pasta straws. Italy isn’t the only place to adopt the pasta straw though: a London-based company called Stroodles produces edible, biodegradable pasta straws made from wheat and water.
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PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES
Pros and cons of rice pasta by Daniela Spandri OTAP Food technologist
How to get a good and tasty product
T
he term pasta refers to a product generally consisting of hard wheat grain semolina and water, although the use of soft wheat or “alternative� flours are allowed for the production of the so-called unconventional pasta. These include enriched pasta, for diabetics, gluten-free etc. In fact, as widely documented, products deriving from wheat contain gluten, which represents a problem for the health of people with a coeliac disease, or suffering from a sensitivity or allergy to this protein. In order to thus satisfy the needs of these consumers, and given the growing demand for gluten-free products from the market, the food industry is constantly looking for raw materials that could substitute wheat. Currently, in the pasta sector, there are numerous gluten-free flours
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April / June 2020
PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES
used, but those obtained from rice are substantially the most common. If, with regards to food technology, rice pasta represents a typical product of the oriental tradition with very ancient origins (in China already known in around 900 a. D.), on the other hand, for the non-coeliac consumer, rice pasta is a novelty in recent years. The traditional preparation of this product consists in adding water to the brown or refined rice flour and then let the dough to ferment. The dough thus obtained has a very dense consistency and can therefore be drawn into various formats. Eggs may or may not be added to the dough. On an industrial level, today there are two approaches to gluten-free pasta: focusing on the ingredients; or focusing on the technological process.
Focus on ingredients The first one, involves a search for the most suitable raw materials and a well-thought out and balanced combination of them. These ingredients, suitably dosed and mixed, must be able to produce a cohesive substitute structure for gluten. This is because in gluten-free pasta the absence of wheat which gives the typical structure to the dough, makes it necessary to create an alternative protein network
April / June 2020
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capable of giving the same plastic and elastic properties of gluten, and rigidity to the finished product, too. For this purpose, one or more sources of starch usually added with additives are normally used. In addition to rice flours, sources of starch include corn, sorghum, “pseudo cereals� (in particular buckwheat) and legume flours and / or proteins (lentils, fava beans, chickpeas, lupine, peas, soybeans). The starch sources listed above can be used alone or in combination with each other. In particular, the mixture of rice flours with other flours from different sources can improve the taste and the nutritional characteristics of the finished product (increase of fiber as in this case of rice - buckwheat, increase of proteins in the case of rice, legume etc).
Additives In the production of pasta, the use of additives is allowed. Among them, hydrocolloids, emulsifiers, proteins and modified enzymes are mainly used. As far as gums (hydrocolloids) are concerned, various are used such as CMC (carboxymethyl cellulose), chitosan, xanthan and HPMC (hydroxy-propyl-methyl-cellulose). These polymers, being extremely hydrophilic and capable of creating cohesive gels at room temperature, compete with the starch to bind to the water present in the dough. Doing this way, they originate a resistant network where the same starch is trapped. The result is a finished product that releases less starch into the cooking water, with greater texture, hardness and palatability. Among the emulsifiers, the most common is certainly E-471 (DATEM - mono and diglycerides of fatty acids) with a stabilizing function which manifests itself as: improvement of the interactions
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PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES
Table 1
Effects of additives in the dough and in gluten-free rice pasta CATEGORY
ADDITIVE Chitosan
EFFECT Decrease of the adhesiveness and bulkiness.
CMC HPMC
Decrease of the gelatinization starch.
Xantan gum Gellan gum HYDROCOLLOIDS
CMC Pectin Agar Tapioca starch
Changes in the rheological properties of starch network.
Guar seed flour Chitosan Guar seed flour Milk proteins Egg proteins Whey proteins Egg proteins (powder)
Increase of the hardness. Improvement in pasta texture and cooking quality. Changes in the rheological properties of starch network. Improvement of the machining ability of gluten free dough.
Transglutaminase PROTEINS & ENZYMES
Improvement of the cohesiveness, chewiness, resilience and hardness. Improvement in pasta sensoral parameters (appearance, flavour, color).
Legume proteins (soy, peas, lupins)
Structuring effect of the protein network. Improvement in pasta texture. Improvement in pasta nutritional value.
EMULSIFIERS
DATEM
Improvement of the machining ability of gluten free dough. Improvement in pasta texture.
Reference: Padalino et al., 2016
between the different proteins, interaction with amylose and
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limitation of its passage through the cooking water, modulation of Professional
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product texture and reduction of surface stickiness. As far as proteins are concerned, they are able to create a structure that mimics that of the glutinic net, in order to increase the nutritional value and improve the sensory parameters of the finished product. These include proteins from soy, lupine, pea, serum proteins and eggs. Finally, among the enzymes, what is noteworthy is transglutamine. This enzyme, of bacterial origin, added to the flour creates a bond between the proteins present, thus strengthening the dough. In general, we can say that additives have the function of improving the product during cooking by increasing its consistency, reducing its stickiness and promoting starch retention (TABLE 1).
Focus on the process The second approach, on the other hand, consists in the technological improvement of the processes, with the aim of recreating the glutinic network using starches naturally present in the dough. With this in mind, the industry has developed three methods for the production of gluten free pasta. 1) Improvement of traditional oriental technology. These processes have been used for centuries and are still used to produce rice pasta. As we can see in TABLE 2, the product, after extrusion, is subjected to repeated heating and cooling treatments. The starches present therefore undergo continuous gelatinization and retrogradation processes. They thus modify their conformation and chemical-physical structure, giving rise to a rigid network and with better cooking resistance. There is therefore the structuring of the starch and the transfer of the nerve to the pasta.
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Table 2
The traditional oriental technology production
Reference: Yeh A.I, 2004
Reference: Pagani et al, 2007
2) Kneading and extrusion processes at temperatures around 100° C. They have the purpose to be induced into a partial gelatinization of the starch. As we can see from TABLE 2, after the initial stages of gelatinization (thanks to hot treatments), extrusion, forming, the product is subjected to drying. This can happen at high temperatures for short times, or vice versa at low temperatures for longer period of times. The combination of heat treatment and starch gelatinization thus allows to obtain a finished
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product with a protein network similar to gluten and a texture acceptable to the consumer. 3) Adoption of plants similar to those used for the production of semolina pasta. In this case the raw materials used are pregelatinized. Regardless of the chosen process, both the rice flour used and some stages of processing require particular attention.
Pay attention to... Among the characteristics of the rice flour used, its amylose content is very important. Oriental cultures Professional
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use for the production of refined rice noodles, flours with a very high amylose content (>250g/kg flour), while for wholemeal noodles flours with a high amylose content (200-250g/kg flour). In Western countries, the trend is to use instead, in both cases, flours with medium amylose content (120-200g/kg flour). The product obtained is very different from the one deriving from wheat, but, in any case, it must have essential quality characteristics. Among them we recall: to be smooth in appearance, uniform in color, mechanically resistant both in cooking and in preservation, it must not dissolve or release an excessive quantity of starch in the cooking water, it must resist if cooked beyond measure, at the end of cooking present firm, non-sticky or slimy consistency on the surface. As far as the production process is concerned, mixing is the critical phase. This is because the raw materials used have different grain size, different solubility and water absorption capacity. In light of this, in order to obtain homogeneous and workable mixtures it is necessary to carry out solid - solid mixing, or alternatively to proceed with successive and gradual additions of water. The latter factor also depends on the presence of the added additives and their hygroscopicity. Two main categories of rice pasta derive from these processes: rice noodles and replacement pasta or rice pasta. These two types are very similar from a nutritional point of view, even if they are substantially different in appearance. Let us now briefly see their characteristics.
Rice noodles Rice noodles come in the form of very thin spaghetti, produced in various thicknesses and marketed fresh, frozen or dried.
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Table 3
Nutritional composition between dry rice and wheat pasta (% on dry matter) Refined rice pasta
Soft wheat pasta (+eggs)
Humidity (%)
11,9
Carbohydrates (%)
Semolina pasta
12,5
10,8
83,2
71
72,7
0,6
2,4
1,2
Proteins (%)
3,40
13,00
13,50
Total fiber (%)
1,60
3,20
1,70
Energy (kcal/100 g)
364
346
341
Fats (%)
References: INRAN 2019, www.mypersonaltrainer.it
The main ingredients are refined rice flour and water. Sometimes brown rice flour is used to create dark variations. In some cases they may also contain other raw materials such as tapioca or corn starch, which improve the gelatinization of the starch and, when cooking, make the pasta more transparent and elastic.
Rice pasta The replacement pasta, or rice pasta, is a dietetic product for the nutrition of coeliac people and those allergic to wheat proteins. It is defined as substitute in that it is apt to replace the traditional
product. Numerous formats and variants are available on the market, both whole and mixed with other gluten-free cereals or pseudo-cereals (corn, quinoa, buckwheat). Due to their similarity, in terms of nutrition, and for the sake of brevity, the rice noodles will not be distinguished from the substitute pasta in the following paragraph. TABLE 3 shows the average nutritional values per 100 g of product (% of dry matter) for white rice pasta, egg pasta (00 wheat flour and eggs) and semolina pasta. The values refer to the dry, raw product.
Rice pasta has a higher energy value than wheat pasta mainly supplied by carbohydrates. It is important to remember the presence of B vitamins (niacin and pantothenic acid the most represented) and folate. As for minerals, calcium, magnesium and manganese are relevant.
Rice, so special Rice (Oryza sativa spp.) is the product obtained by processing paddy rice with a complete removal of husk and subsequent refining operation. The refining process involves a series of technological operations, which for brevity reasons, we will not go into further detail. But we just need to know that these steps determine a progressive change in the appearance, chemical-physical and nutritional structure of the bean. In fact, this operations leads to a gradual removal of the outer layers (husk) rich in proteins, fats, mineral salts and vitamins and to the removal of anti-nutrient compounds such as phytic acid, and to the increase of the content of starch. TABLE 4, 5 and 6 and FIGURES 1 and 2 show the average percentage nutritional values of the main Figure 1
Table 4
Average nutritional composition of rice (% on dry matter)
Average nutritional composition of rice (% on dry matter) Raw refined Raw brown rice rice Proteins (%)
6,07
7,05
Fats (%)
0,04
1,09
Carbohydrates (%) of which:
80,04
77,04
Starch (%)
72,09
69,02
Sugars (%)
0,02
1,02
Total fiber (%) of which:
1,00
1,09
Soluble fiber (%)
0,08
0,12
Insoluble fiber (%)
0,06
1,08
332
337
Energy (kcal/100 g) Reference: INRAN, 2000
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Reference: INRAN, 2000
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components of white rice and brown rice, as well as the content of micro-nutrients and amino acids
Table 5
Micronutrients in rice (average value on 100 g dry matter) Raw refined rice Sodium (mg) Potassium (mg) Iron (mg)
Raw brown rice
Rice flour
Rice flour
5
9
4
92
214
104
0,08
1,06
0,04
Calcium (mg)
24
32
7
Phosphorous (mg)
94
221
90
Magnesium (mg)
20
nd
nd
Zinc (mg)
1,03
nd
nd
Copper (mg)
0,18
nd
nd
10
nd
nd
Thiamine (mg)
Selenium (Âľg)
0,11
0,48
0,05
Riboflavin (mg)
0,03
0,05
0,04
Niacin (mg)
1,03
4,07
1,04
Vitamin E (mg)
traces
0,07
0
Phytic acid (g)
0
0,52
0
Reference: INRAN, 2000
Figure 2
Table 6
Amino acids in refined rice (g/100 g proteins)
Amino acids present in raw refined rice mg/100 g in edible part
g/100 g proteins
Lysine
257
0,18
Histidine
165
2,47
Arginine
543
8,01
Aspartic Acid
657
9,08
Threonine
246
0,17
Serin
348
5,19
1354
20,21
Proline
333
0,23
Glycine
310
0,21
Alanine
401
0,28
Cystine
108
0,08
Valine
438
6,53
Methionine
149
2,23
Glutamic Acid
Isoleucine
306
4,57
Leucine
590
0,39
Tyrosine
228
3,04
Phenylalanine
360
5,37
84
1,03
Tryptophan
Rice flour is the product obtained by grinding brown or refined rice (Oryza sativa) and glutinous rice (Oryza sativa glutinosa). Normally grains damaged in the processing phases are destined for milling. On the market there are different types: refined, whole flour and glutinous rice flour. For the purposes of this topic, however, the term rice flour will refer to refined rice flour, as it is the most widely used in the pasta sector. The main nutritional characteristics of rice flour are shown in TABLE 7 in comparison with 00 common wheat flour and durum wheat semolina.
Reference: INRAN, 2000
Reference: INRAN, 2000
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Table 7
Average nutritional composition of different flours: rice, soft wheat and semolina (% on dry matter) Refined rice flour
Soft wheat flour (00)
Durum wheat semolina
Water (%)
12,3
14,2
12,5
Proteins (%)
7,03
11
12,9
Fats (%)
0,05
0,7
2,8
Carbohydrates (%) of which:
87,00
77,30
63,20
Starch (%)
79,01
68,70
54,50
Sugars (%)
0,00
1,70
3,20
Total fiber (%) of which:
1,00
2,20
nd
Soluble fiber (%)
0,01
0,84
nd
Insoluble fiber (%)
0,09
1,41
nd
360
340
314
Energy (kcal/100 g) Reference: INRAN, 2000
As for 00 wheat flour and semolina, rice flour, depending on the kind of milling process it is subjected to, can have different grain sizes: fine, medium, coarse. The fine grain size confers to the finished products better textures and is, for this reason, used for pastry, biscuits and cookies. Medium-sized grain flour is the most commonly used for pasta and bread. Finally, the coarse-grained raw material is used in breakfast cereals and as a covering or breading. In general, rice flour
gives to finished products a greater density and heaviness than wheat flour, for these reasons it is usually associated with other gluten-free flours. If the rice flour is dosed above 30% on the weight of the mixture, very crumbly and / or with a very grainy texture. Such defects will be more accentuated if the rice flour used has a coarser grain size. Finally, let’s also remember the rice starch, which we will not talk about as it is mainly applied in different sectors other than the
pasta sector (creams, sauces, soups sauces, etc.). In conclusion, the use of rice and its derivatives in the production of pasta is both a wellknown oriental tradition, but also an innovation for the western world, where pasta is at the base of the population’s nutrition. It is therefore the task of the research institutes and professionals in the sector to link tradition and innovation, in order to make this food available and desirable for those groups of consumers who for various reasons cannot use wheat-based products. Daniela Spandri
Bibliography Bocchi S., Dendena B., Grassi S., Il riso: uno sguardo a cultura, ecologia e nutrizione, Fondazione Giacomo Feltrinelli, 2015. Lai H.M, Effects of rice properties and emulsifiers on the quality of rice pasta, Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture, 82; p. 203-216, 2001. Pagani M.A., Lucisano M., Mariotti M., Traditional Italian products from wheat and other starchy flours. In: Handbook of food products manufacturing. Ed. Hui, Y.H. John Wiley Interscience of New York, pp. 327-388, 2007. Marti A., Seetharaman K., Pagani M.A., Rice-based pasta: A comparison between conventional pasta-making and extrusion-cooking, Journal of Cereal Science (2010); doi: 10.1016/j.jcs.2010.07.002. Padalino L., Conte A., Del Nobile M.A., Overview on the General Approaches to Improve Gluten-Free Pasta and Bread, Foods 2016, 5, 87; doi: 10.3390/foods5040087. Yeh A.I, Institute of Food Science & Technology, National Taiwan University, Taipei, Third edition edited by Elaine T. Champagne, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Research Service, Southern Regional Research Center, New Orleans, Louisiana, 2004. Yu L.L., Tsao R., Shahidi F., Cereals and pulses: nutraceutical properties and Health benefits, John Wiley & Sons, First edition, 2012. www.crea.gov.it www.cure-naturali.it www.fao.com www.mypersonaltrainer.it
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TRENDS
Lockdown brought pasta with tuna by Delia Maria Sebelin
A healthy dish to increase pasta lovers (and buyers) all over the world
T
he lockdown due to coronavirus changed consumer’s habits, even at the table. In the shopping cart you can now find practical, safe and accessible foods, ready to use and with a long shelf life. Canned tuna is a good choice, for example. In Italy, the updated consumption data confirm an important growth in the demand for this food. Italians considers it a safe, healthy, tasty, practical and convenient product (+33.6% of purchase since the beginning of the emergency - Source: IRI). According to a Doxa/Ancit survey, which photographed the experience and knowledge of Italians compared to a product, pasta with tuna reaches the third place among the dish they prefer to cook and eat. And so, at home, one of the first thoughts goes to tuna pasta, a great classic of Mediterranean cuisine.
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A guaranteed and infallible solution for the meal, but not so obvious: there are many secrets to a success at the top. We would like to explain here all the secrets to make a great dish. We hope it could help to increase pasta lovers all over the world. And we would suggest to the pasta producers to write the recipe behind the package. Like all traditional and pop dishes, it has been interpreted by numerous chefs who have amazed us with their gourmet versions, proving that it is not only a last minute recipe.
meat is a cheat, in which too many foreigners fall. In Italy we have Tagliatelle Bolognaise (with ground meat), and Spaghetti Bolognaise (with tuna sauce). The last one born at the end of ’800 thanks to the arrival in Bologna of canned tuna. We started to cook it on Friday, because we had to avoid to eat meat that day, for religious reasons.
All the truth about Spaghetti Bolognaise According to the Italian Academy of Cuisine, the real Spaghetti Bolognaise are not with meat sauce, but with tuna. Remind this, you guys: Spaghetti Bolognaise with
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TRENDS
What not to do No matter if you prefer to taste red pasta with tuna or the white version (without tomatoes), but you cannot make some mistakes as you are cooking it. So, pay attention to the following. 1) Do not remove tuna oil. The olive oil of canned tuna should not be thrown away: it is healthy and tasty, use it directly in the sauce. 2) Do not cook tuna to long cooking. Whether natural or in oil, canned tuna has already been cooked, by means of a specific thermal sterilization process that takes place after packaging. So, whether it is pasta with tuna in white or with
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red sauce, tuna should be added only at the last moment and out of the fire. Otherwise it will dry too much and start to unravel. 3) Using lemon is a great idea: the grated zest (of untreated citrus fruits) goes in the sautĂŠ. The juice is added at the end. In both cases the rule is: taste it and do not exceed.
Spaghetti Bolognaise where born in ancient Bologna Professional
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4) Anchovies in oil and capers match well with tuna. In case, they should be added at the beginning of cooking (also all three together). 5) Parsley is an extra touch that gives aroma to the dish, but must always be added over low heat: cooking, even short, make it bitter. 6) Tuna pasta is a quick dish, all right. People have a delicate palate, all right. But there are some ingredients that could give some extra touch to the dish: a little bit of chili pepper makes any meal more interesting. It’s the same about some good black olives (those of Gaeta in Italy are perfect).
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7) And what about some Parmesan cheese on the top? No medical prescription forbids it… It would be better to avoid, anyhow because the cheese flavor the tuna. But if you use provola or mozzarella it could be a good idea beacuse their sweet taste enhances the taste of canned tuna (by the way, have you ever tasted a pizza with tuna and mozzarella cheese?).
Tuna has D vitamin, so it helps against infections
Spaghetti Bolognaise? Yes, with tuna please According to the Italian Academy of Cuisine, the real Spaghetti Bolognaise are not with meat sauce, but with tuna. Founded in Milan on the 29th of July 1953 by Orio Vergani with a group of well-qualified representatives of culture, industry and journalism, and recognised as a Cultural Institution of the Italian Republic since 2003, the Italian Academy of Cuisine aims to protect the traditions of Italian cuisine in Italy and abroad. Through its Study Centre and its Delegations and Legations in Italy and worldwide, the Academy strives to promote initiatives intended to increase familiarity with the values of Italian cuisine, which form the basis for every substantial innovation.
Good ideas The sauce needs to be prepared in the meanwhile water boils and spaghetti cooks. It’s a quick dish but if you want a very good result, please respect some basic rules. Do you think you know them? Let’s see… Tuna is poured before or after the tomato?
The real recipe of Spaghetti Bolognaise Ingredients (4 servings): 320 g of spaghetti, 180 g of canned tuna, 1 onion, 700 g tomatoes, salt and olive oil. • Cut the onion into very thin slices and fry in oil until it becomes transparent. Add the tomatoes, peeled and cut into pieces, and cook over low heat for about half an hour, until they are completely amalgamated. At 10 minutes from the end of cooking, add the drained and crumbled tuna in coarse pieces. Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti al dente, on which you will pour the dressing after draining. • Two variations that can be admitted: the addition of a touch of flavor given by anchovies (also with onions), and some parsley on the dish already prepared.
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What kind of pasta is better to use? Better in white or red sauce? These are just some of the questions you should answer. If you can’t, “La Cucina del Fuorisede” - a virtual community of students with over 50 thousand followers - could help. In these pages you find two recipes of pasta with tuna with some gourmet innovation: lasagna baked in tuna sauce and a very tasty recipe with olives, garlic and oregano (see box at page 32).
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Canned tuna purchase increased in Italy during the lockdown Good for your health «Canned tuna and pasta is an important match», Luca Piretta, a gastroenterologist at the University Biomedical Campus in Professional
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Rome, says. «Why? Because carbohydrate stimulates the production of insulin, and insulin favors the absorption not just of sugar but of proteins, too. In this way, it is possible to make the best use of the tuna proteins if we eat it together with spaghetti. The combination promotes the absorption aof some important amino acids such as tryptophan, a precursor of serotonin, the hormone of well-being, which also has positive effects on the quality
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Try & taste Here you can find two recipes by La Cucina del Fuorisede. Because canned tuna can be married not just with spaghetti…
Lasagna with tuna Ingredients for 4 servings of béchamel: 50 g of flour 00, 500 ml of whole milk, 50 g of butter, nutmeg and salt. • Heat the milk in a saucepan, add some nutmeg and some salt. Melt the butter over low heat in another saucepan. When butter is melted, add the sifted flour in one stroke and mix all over low heat. Then add the milk and bring to a boil. Let it rest in the fridge. Ingredients to prepare lasagna: 160 g of canned tuna, 500 ml tomato sauce, 240 g lasagna pasta, 200 g of smoked provola, 2 onions, olive oil and salt. • Chop onions and fry them in a pan with extra virgin olive oil. Then add tuna and cook for 5 minutes. At this point pour the tomato sauce and cook for 20 minutes from the boil. Sliced smoked provola. Add béchamel sauce to the sauce with tuna. Then start to prepare the layers: first a sheet of tuna sauce, then lasagna pasta, sliced provola and start again. Bake into the oven at 200° C for 30 minutes.
Big spaghetti with tuna olives and oregano Spaghetti diameter is an essential item. A dish with thiny ones tastes different when you use spaghetti with a larger diameter, even if the sauce is the same. So, for this recipe, don not use the wrong ones. Ingredients for 4 servings: 160 g of big spaghetti, 200 g of salty tomatoes, 80 g of canned tuna, 60 g of black olives, garlic and oregano, salt and oil. • Fry a clove of garlic with extra virgin olive oil in a pan. When the oil is perfumed, pour the sauced tomatoes and cook for 3-5 minutes. Add the olives with tuna and oregano. Cook pasta in hot water for half of its cooking time. Drlice the onions and fry them in a pan with olive oil. Once they are brown, add tuna and cook for 5 minutes. Then pour the sauce and let it cook for 20 minutes from the boil. Sliced smoked provola. • Add béchamel sauce to the sauce and start to compose lasagna: first a ladle of tuna sauce,ain the pasta directly into the pan, preserving a little cooking water. Complete cooking in the pan adding cooking water you preserved before. To make the dish creamier, add a knob of butter to melt over low heat.
of sleep (it helps to sleep better)». Canned tuna has some important properties. « It is precious for its vitamin D. This substance promotes a greater defense of the immune system against infections, viruses, influenza and pneumonia. It is known that our skin produces vitamin D as a result of the sun’s rays, but this happens if a good part of the body surface is exposed to the sun. When it is deficient, it must be filled with nutrition». Delia Maria Sebelin
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Rustichella d’Abruzzo, innovation meets tradition by Roberto Faben Economic journalist
When the choice of special formats can be very rewarding
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mong Italian producers of dry durum wheat pasta, Rustichella d’Abruzzo is a case in point. Its growth process has not only achieved excellent market results - its turnover exceeds 10 million euros and its offer includes over 250 formats - but it has also developed in an unusual and winning way, first becoming popular in some foreign countries, such as the United States, and then expanding the business also in Italy.
From “Tanuccio” to date The origins of the pasta factory go back to 1924, when Gaetano Sergiacomo, known as “Tanuccio” - the first of seven brothers, sons of millers working in the Vestina area, and maternal grandfather of the current owners, brothers Gianluigi and Maria Stefania Peduzzi founded a pasta factory in Penne,
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a beautiful village in Abruzzo, not by chance included in the small circle of the “Most Beautiful Villages in Italy”, equidistant from the shores of the Adriatic Sea and the Gran Sasso of Italy. In the eighties, Piero Peduzzi, father of Gianluigi and Maria Stefania, started a production of whole-grain durum wheat pasta drawn in bronze. In 1989, after some company transformations, Rustichella d’Abruzzo was born. The current owners took over the business, starting a complex and painstaking work of weaving business relationships, combining the tradition know-how with the modernization of processes and products required by advanced markets. In this period began the collaboration with the famous explorer of Italian excellence of taste, Giorgio Onesti, who later became ambassador of pasta Rustichella d’Abruzzo as well as business relations with Giorgio De Luca and Joel Dean who founded in September 1977 - the network of grocery stores, restaurants, cafes and places of good taste, called “Dean & De Luca”, in New York. De Luca and Dean personally went
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Maria Stefania Peduzzi, co-owner
to Pianella (Pescara), where Rustichella has its headquarters, and to Moscufo, where the pasta factory is located, and fell in love with its products. Another dazzling meeting took place with chef Rolando Ruiz Beramendi, a tireless promoter of Italian excellence of taste - especially pasta - in the
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Mr. Gianluigi Peduzzi, President of Rustichella d’Abruzzo
United States, through the “Manicaretti” import and distribution network. This combination of elements
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favoured an intense penetration of Rustichella d’Abruzzo’s references in the US market: in 1991, his spelt pasta, innovation of the year in Italy, also thanks to an article on spelt published by the “New York Times”, caused the sales of Rustichella’s product to peak, so much so that, immediately after the publication of the article, the San Francisco distributor of the pasta factory in Pianella quickly sold out the stocks. There was even a phone call from the White House, with a request from the presidential staff to supply a batch of orecchiette of their own production for an institutional dinner. Famous connoisseurs of pasta produced in Moscufo were also present in Italy. Among these, the unforgettable tenor Luciano Pavarotti stands out; he even called the Abruzzo company directly to ask for a pasta supply and then sent a letter of appreciation and praise, jealously preserved in the archives where the most precious memories of the pasta factory are kept.
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Travelling to make yourself known The team of owners and managers, i.e. Gianluigi and Maria Stefania Peduzzi and the managing director Giancarlo D’Annibale, began travelling around the world to make their name and their pasta quality known; they started business relationships, based on a mutual knowledge and appreciation between businesses, but also on the value of people, entrepreneurs with their own history, know-how and culture, representing deeply different territories and bearers of opportunities to develop. Orders from abroad poured in, especially from North America, Europe and Asia and today 85% of the pasta factory’s turnover is achieved in more than 70
Stars and celebrities love this pasta brand
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CEO Giancarlo D'Annibale
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countries, with a continuous increase in penetration into new markets year after year. In February 2002, Rustichella also invested, providing its know-how, in a project in India in collaboration with an Asian subcontinent entrepreneurial group, which led to the creation of a pasta factory in Jaipur - the capital city (3.3 million inhabitants) of the district and division of Jaipur, in the federated state of Rajastan. The company, inaugurated with the presence of the Italian ambassador Mancini in India, produces pasta from the local durum wheat chain, and is marketed on the Indian market under the brand name “Gustora”. Through a joint venture, Rustichella is still part of the company that owns the pasta factory.
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Focus on Italy In Italy, the marketing channels are diversified and range from specialist shops to delicatessen, from wine shops to bakeries, from delicatessen to restaurants. Approximately 75% of sales on the national territory come from retail. 60% of Italian turnover derives from commercial relations with customers with whom the pasta factory is in contact directly, while the remaining 40% comes from the work of historical agents in strategic areas, such as southern Italy. Among the regions with the greatest demand for supplies, Trentino Alto Adige stands out. The rich catalogue brings together the classic line, alongside the gluten-free and kamut options, products to which are added those of the “Primograno” line, made
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entirely from wheat grown in Abruzzo (“San Carlo”, “Varano” and “Mongibello” are the cultivar names), and futuristic references, such as spaghetti with very fast cooking “90 secondi rapida” (presented in New York in October 2014, with the same quality characteristics of the classic pasta), pasta with low glycemic index and wheat fibers for those who work out (“Young”) as well as the smallsize pasta enriched with fruit and vegetable puree suitable for young children, called “Zerotre”.
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From seed to plate 80% of the wheat used by the pasta factory is domestically grown and 20% is imported. The grains are used for production within 15 days of milling. After the first phase of kneading at low temperature, and drawing, strictly in bronze, the dough is transferred to the drying cells to be dried, at low temperature (between 35° and 42° C). Drying times vary from 24 to 48 hours, but for some sizes they reach 56 hours. Professional
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Rustichella d’Abruzzo promotes its products, not only by participating in the main national and international fairs dedicated to the food industry, but also through cultural initiatives, such as the collaboration with the network of “Red-Feltrinelli” bookshops: a series of events, such as those that took place in Milan and Rome, where pasta and books meet in a fascinating union. Roberto Faben
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Student at DEMACO is Student of the Year
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akshmi “Simhon” Narasimhon (photo), a graduate student pursuing a Masters in Mechanical Engineering at Florida Tech, was named Florida Tech Student Employee of the Year (offcampus) for his exceptional work as a student engineer at DEMACO, a company that designs and builds pasta machines for the largest food companies worldwide. Simhon worked closely with the sales, engineering and manufacturing teams at to develop floor plans and mechanical assemblies for high capacity pasta systems, both for the dry pasta and fresh/frozen
sectors. The recognition noted his professionalism and ability to achieve collaboration, essential skills for success for engineers working on complex projects. On one design, Simhon worked with the Plant Manager at Riviana Foods, makers of Ronzoni Pasta, on a project to enhance a DEMACO dry pasta extruder. Simhon said of the experience, «I learned a tremendous amount about integrating mechanical assemblies into much larger systems. It requires teamwork, as well as accurate and detailed engineering to ensure a good outcome». John Alberga, Chief Engineer at DEMACO said, «It was a pleasure having Simhon on the team. He listened closely and easily grasped complicated concepts». Simhon will receive his Masters in Mechanical Engineering in August of this year, and plans on joining the DEMACO team full time. DEMACO has a long history of working with Florida Tech, an engineering and research university in Melbourne. Over the years, the company has hosted many interns and engineering students, as well as held classes at their facility. DEMACO is also involved with the Space Coast Machinist Apprenticeship Program, a nonprofit educational organization that is responsible for training machinists in the Space Coast region of Florida.
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When a dryer is advanced
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bout two years ago, thanks to an important study carried out by Storci R&D, an ambitious project was conceived concerning the improvement of the drying process inside the static dryers. To reach that goal, the dryer has been completely re-planned, designing again and improving all its components from a point of view either technical or technological, resulting in a uniform ventilation over all the trays inside the dryer. This has improved the drying process at both high and low temperature, with remarkable advantages for the final quality of the product. Since 2019, new dryers have been manufactured and are about to be installed in several pasta factories. This step forward is to be added to all the distinctive features of
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Storci’s static dryers. First of all, they have been manufactured with the same panels used for the big automatic lines by Fava/Storci: panels that are already excellent but have been further refined. Moreover, the dryers allow a computerized drying process, extremely easy and versatile, because it is possible to change, quickly, recipes and settings simply choosing from the menu of the touch-screen interface. It is also possible to modulate it in case the production is to be increased and new dryers are needed to implement it, so that the investment is totally adaptable to any requirements the customer might ask for. Storci’s static dryers are resilient and long-lasting and among the most reliable on the market. For this reason, we can offer a 10-year
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guarantee for the fiberglass panels. Last but not least, the new drying phase software. This new system is different from the previous ones for one main feature: it is based on an autoadaptable principle. When setting a starting and ending phase, during the middle phases the software allows the recipe to constantly adapt to the real ambient conditions. This way, it is able to correct its own functioning with reference to possible new events, such as human mistakes made by the operators or failures, either when drying or producing. All this allows a more precise drying level, thus contributing to its perfect stability, for an excellent dried pasta, according to the customer’s preferences.
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Bühler and Givaudan join forces in Asia
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he leading food technology provider (Bühler) and the global leader in flavors and fragrances (Givaudan), are bringing their global partnership to Asia to build in Singapore an Innovation Center dedicated to plant-based food. The new facility is planned to open in Singapore later this year. «The projected population of 10 billion people by 2050 is a challenge too big to be solved alone,» explains Ian Roberts, CTO of Bühler. «Companies are increasingly aware of the urgent need to collaborate to make an impact on the climate and nutrition challenges of this century. Universities, start-ups, and companies need to come together
to innovate and find more sustainable ways to produce food. This is what this Innovation Center is all about, and we are pleased we found a like-minded partner to bring this vision to life in Asia, home to half of the world’s population.»
Experts from both companies The new facility, located at Givaudan Woodlands site, will be jointly run by the two companies, bringing together a pilot plant featuring Bühler extrusion and processing equipment and a kitchen and flavor laboratory by Givaudan. The facility will be supported by experts from both companies. The Innovation Center will welcome food processing
Ian Roberts, CTO of Bühler
The Innovation Center at Givaudan Woodlands site in Singapore
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companies, start-ups and university researchers looking to develop novel plant-based food products. Bühler’s equipment and processing expertise combined with Givaudan’s flavor, taste, ingredient, and product development expertise will create a unique offering and synergy that will be greatly advantageous to those developing new products, particularly when using wet or dry extrusion.
Focusing on Asian markets «We are very proud to launch this initiative. It is a testament that industry leaders can come together to the benefit of the whole food innovation ecosystem.
Fabio Campanile, Head of Science and Technology at Givaudan
We are especially excited that this project will take place in Singapore, a diverse country at the heart of Southeast Asia with strong ambitions for the future of food. We see a lot of market potential for plant-based products in the coming years in Asia, in particular, the alternative meat sector. Our combined expertise in the development and manufacture of plant-based foods will allow for new ranges that cater to Asia tastes, texture expectations and cooking techniques,» says Fabio Campanile, Head of Science and Technology at Givaudan. The Innovation Center is currently under construction at Givaudan Woodlands site in Singapore. The full facility opening is planned for the fourth quarter of 2020.
INDEX OF ADVERTISERS ANSELMO www.anselmoitalia.com BÜHLER www.buhlergroup.com
2-3 BACK COVER
LANDUCCI www.landucci.it
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MARTINOROSSI www.martinorossispa.com
27
CASTIGLIONI www.castiglioninedo.it
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MININNI www.molinomininni.com
CUSINATO www.cusinato.com
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NICCOLAI www.niccolai.com
DE MARI www.demaripastadies.com
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PASTA TECH. GROUP www.pastatechgroup.com
DEMACO www.demaco.com
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PAVAN www.pavan.com
INSIDE FRONT COVER
FRONT COVER - 22 - 23
STORCI www.storci.com
7 - I.P.
FAVA www.fava.it FOODTECH www.food-tech.it
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IMPERIA & MONFERRINA www.la-monferrina.com 37
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TRAFILE TURCONI www.trafileturconi.it
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ZINDO www.zindo.it
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