T h e i n t e r n at i o n a l m ag a z i n e f or Pa s ta P r o d u c e r s
Tariffe R.O.C. Poste Italiane - Spedizione in abbonamento postale - D.L. 353/2003 (cov.in L. 27/02/04 nÂ°46) Art. 1 comma 1 DCB Bologna
Wheat and pasta market trends
How to guarantee long shelf-life
O U R PA S S I O N
F O R PA S TA
T R AV E L S
T H E W O R L D.
NICCOLAI TRAFILE N. 4 October / December 2017
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Pasta Year XXII - N. 4 October/December 2017
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Uncertain trend for wheat and pasta market by Dario Casati
features food security
Foreseeable storage conditions to validate product shelf-life by Stefano Zardetto
The future of pasta all around the world by Delia Maria Sebelin
Facts & news Pasta’s friends Supplier news
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Quando nel 1990 abbiamo progettato e realizzato Cartrapen/500, il primo gruppo di taglio con testa girevole non pensavamo soltanto ad un sistema di taglio automatico con coltello, ventilatore ed illuminazione. Abbiamo anche pensato come rendere più agevole e sicuro il lavoro degli operatori durante le quotidiane operazioni di cambio trafila, cambio coni di taglio, pulizia e controllo di qualità.
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tutta la flessibilità che stavate aspettando Dagli ideatori dell’innovativo sistema con testa girevole, subito il più imitato, oggi nasce la nuova famiglia PRESSTRAPEN, i rivoluzionari gruppi di taglio automatici che sfruttano la struttura portante della pressa evitando ingombri a terra, per una flessibilità, facilità di pulizia ed un’efficienza di impianto mai viste prima.
La flessibilità arriva ad un punto di svolta. Dall’esperienza che ha reso la famiglia CARTRAPEN il gruppo di taglio più apprezzato dai pastifici nasce PRESSTRAPEN, il nuovo sistema che si integra con la linea di produzione, per avere tutti i vantaggi della tecnologia Niccolai Trafile con il minimo ingombro e lavorare ancora più velocemente.
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Cartrapen since 1990 and Presstrapen since 2001 are still
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Uncertain trend for wheat and pasta market T he withdrawal of Great Britain from the Eu is the first case in the Eu history and gives cause for concern: the European Union without Great Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economic and political support loses its importance on the global scene.
by Dario Casati Agricultural economist, Full Professor of economics at the Faculty of Agriculture University of Milan (Italy)
Trumpâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s arrival on the political scene was like a thunder: in the Usa, the signs of isolationism are very strong. It is too early to understand which direction this policy will take. However, as to trade, the non-ratification of Tpp, the position against Nafta and Mexico and Ttip, while criticizing the Eu, restrains globalization and catches Great Britain unprepared. In fact, Great Britain was looking for other exchange channels outside the Eu. In the European Union, a return to protectionism - due to growing Euroscepticism - is not excluded. On the big international trade scene, agricultural products account for a small percentage, despite their strategic role. Cereals can be considered as the paradigm group for their situation and their perspectives.
The industry situation is relatively stable, yet tense. The global production of the three main cereals (wheat, corn and rice) is growing and could reach new records in 2016/17. The wheat long-term global trend confirms the production growth at a slightly higher rate than consumption, thus able to meet the growing demand. In Italy, the biggest pasta producer in the world, the industry positive balance is growing, thank to pasta exports; this proves the capacity of promoting finished products, even though they are partially made of imported raw materials. However, in a nutshell, the scene in which the value chain works is variable. We are facing a difficult situation which is due, on the one side, to the need to get out of the crisis, and on the other, to remerging protectionism towards international markets, as it occurred in the past, in times of crisis.
Import of durum wheat in Italy (2016) EU-28 EUROPEAN COUNTRIES NON-EU AMERICA ASIA OCEANIA
January/November 2016: EUR 558 million Source: Oecv-Esp Unimi on Istat figures
Export of pasta from Italy (2016) EU-28
What is happening with international agreements confirms this. The position of the cereal sector does not count for a refusal, but it is justified by the fact that Italy has to import soft and durum wheat for reasons related to quality and quantity, since the country is objectively lacking an adequate domestic supply. A wise national position shall take into account the fact that opposition to free trade treaties does not benefit the national economy, not to mention the agri-food industry in which the active element is processed food and not agricultural raw materials.
AFRICA ASIA EUROPEAN COUNTRIES NON-EU AMERICA OCEANIA
January/November 2016: EUR 1.626 billion Source: Oecv-Esp Unimi on Istat figures
We should bear in mind that we cannot ask the rest of the world to open up to our products while closing the door to imports. It is a basic reciprocity criterion that cannot be neglected. Dario Casati
Hall 3 Stand C12
FACTS & NEWS Barilla to open two restaurants in California
Ific tackles myths of modern food processing
Barilla is expanding its chain of Barilla-branded restaurants in the United States with the planned opening of two locations in California. One of the locations will be on the campus of the University of Southern California at Usc Village and another at the upscale South Coast Plaza in Orange county. Both restaurants will feature open kitchens and a range of ingredients, including pasta, grains, fruit and vegetables. Barilla opened its first Us restaurant in New York in December 2013 and currently operates three locations in New York City.
«Gluten can’t free itself», «Processing helps vegans be vegans». These messages are part of a campaign launched by the International Food Information Council Foundation (Ific) to counter misinformation about modern food processing and production in the Joseph Clayton, Ceo of Ific United States. The latest research by Ific reveals consumers are confused by conflicting information about food and nutrition, which may lead to faulty decisions about diets and health. Ific’s 2017 Food and Health Survey found that consumers may associate product formats such as fresh, frozen or canned with health and nutrition. The survey showed that with nutritionally identical products consumers are almost five times as likely to believe a fresh product is healthier than a canned version. «Pseudo-scientific diet and health information surrounds us. We hope that some of these messages will help consumers stop, think and ultimately seek out more science-based information about their food», said Joseph Clayton, chief executive officer of Ific.
Azelis expands its presence in the Swiss market Azelis is a leading global speciality chemicals and food ingredients distributor providing a diverse range of innovative products and services. Dedicated teams serve customers in the following industries: food & health, personal care, pharma. The company has recently announced the acquisition of Georges Walther, a company based in Switzerland. Anna Bertona, Azelis Ceo & President Asia Pacific and Americas regions, comments: «Combining this acquisition with existing operations from Azelis Switzerland and Azelis Germany will give us the perfect platform to strengthen our presence in the Swiss market».
In Us Post Holdings wants to acquire Bob Evans Farms Post Holdings will acquire Bob Evans Farmsfor $77 per share in a transaction valued at approximately $1.5 billion. The combination is expected to expand Post’s presence in higher-growth packaged foods categories. Based in New Albany, Ohio, Bob Rob Vitale, President Evans is a producer and distribuand Ceo of Post Holdings tor of refrigerated potato, pasta and vegetable side dishes, pork sausage, and refrigerated and frozen products under the Bob Evans, Owens, Country Creek and Pineland Farms brands. The addition of Bob Evans is expected to strengthen Post’s footprint in food service and is highly complementary to its portfolio of ready-to-eat cereal brands, including Pebbles, Honey Bunches of Oats, Malt-O-Meal and Weetabix; active nutrition brands, including PowerBar, Premier Protein and Dymatize; and value-add egg, potato and cheese brands, including Crystal Farms, Better’n Eggs, Simply Potatoes and All Whites.
Amazon to acquire Whole Foods Market Amazon announced it has agreed to acquire Whole Foods Market for $42 per share in an all-cash transaction valued at approximately $13.7 billion, including Whole Foods Market’s net debt. Whole Foods Market will retain its headquarters in Austin, Texas, and John Mackey will remain chief executive officer. The transaction is expected to close by the end of 2017.
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pa sta’s friends Pipeline Foods buys Canadian grain elevators
More opportunities for Us agriculture in Brazil
Minneapolis-based Pipeline Foods is a global organization developing sustainable supply chains in agriculture with a focus on non-bioengineered and organic grains, oilseeds and ingredients for food and feed. It has recently acquired two grain elevator facilities in Canada: a 3,500 and a 4,000-tonne facility. The two facilities will serve as primary collection points for Canadian organic grain originations in their respective regions - Wapella in the southeast and Gull Lake in the southwest. Pipeline Foods will store, screen and blend barley, corn, rye, flax, lentils, oats, peas, soybeans and wheat. The two facilities are forecast to move an estimated 25,000 tonnes in 2018 with capacity expected to increase after initial capital investments are made this year.
During a Us Department of Agriculture (Usda) trade mission to São Paulo and Recife, Brazil, last September, leaders from 24 Us agribusinesses and trade organizations explored opportunities to expand their agricultural exports and further develop their business relationships in Brazil. «Brazil holds significant untapped market potential for Us exporters», said Mark Slupek, deputy administrator of the Office of Trade Programs for Usda’s Foreign Agricultural Service. «The country’s growing population and rising percapita income, coupled with the fact that Brazilian consumers have a high regard for Us products and brands, make this a market well worth exploring for American exporters». Last year, Brazil purchased nearly $1.4 billion in agricultural and related products from the United States. Top Us exports to Brazil in 2016 included ethanol, wheat, prepared foods and dairy products.
General Mills’ efforts gain traction in marketplace Despite year-over-year declines in earnings and sales, General Mills showed «great focus and urgency» in executing against its global growth priorities in the first quarter of fiscal 2018, said Jeffrey Harmening, chief executive officer. Net income at General Mills in Jeffrey Harmening, the first quarter ended August 27 Ceo of General Mills totaled $404.7 million, equal to 70 cash per share on the common stock, down 1.1% from $409 million, or 68 cash per share, in the same period a year ago. Net sales also were lower, falling 3.5% to $3,769.2 million from $3,907.9 million.
Nestle furthers commitment to innovation Nestle Usa is partnering with Rabobank and RocketSpace to support start-ups for the Terra Food + Ag Tech Accelerator program, an initiative to fuel cross-industry innovation and set a new standard for food and agriculture. «We’re experiencing a seismic shift Rui Barbas, chief strategy in the food industry, and our partofficer at Nestle Usa nership with Terra by Rabobank and RocketSpace is just one way in which Nestle can play a leading role in meeting quickly evolving consumer expectations and explore new disruptive technologies and business models», said Rui Barbas, chief strategy officer at Nestle Usa. «When we combine the resources of Nestle with the creativity and new thinking born from the start-up culture, we can create real change in our industry and best deliver on consumer needs». The Terra Food + Ag Tech Accelerator program brings together large global brands like Nestle with start-ups to work on product-testing and go-to-market solutions.
Cargill to build biodiesel plant in Kansas Cargill has unveiled plans to build a $90 million biodiesel plant in Wichita, Kansas. Construction on the 42,000-square-foot facility will begin in December, with plans to open the plant in January 2019. Cargill said the facility will produce 60 million gallons of biodiesel annually and employ 35 full-time employees. The plant will be built next to Cargill’s oilseed processing plant and will replace an existing oil refinery managed by Cargill’s global edible oil business, the company said. The edible oils production will be transferred to other Cargill facilities.
FOOD SECURI TY
Foreseeable storage conditions to validate product shelf-life
FOOD SECURI TY
Principles and operating calculation modalities
by Stefano Zardetto Managing Director of Quality and R&D Management Voltan Group (Italy)
helf-life refers to the period of time during which under reasonably foreseeable conditions of storage, distribution and use, a food product can be considered safe and in optimal condition. The speed of a productâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s qualitative (sensorial, microbiological, chemical-physical, nutritional etc.) deterioration in specific processing, storage, and distribution conditions needs to be evaluated in order to determine how long that period should last. October/December 2017
FOOD SECURI TY Temperature & bacteria Temperature is one of the most important extrinsic factors affecting the speed of a product’s qualitative deterioration. It represents, in fact, one of the major obstacles to the development of bacteria and one of the most relevant factors influencing the product’s stability and quality. Under article 9, comma G of the Commission Regulation (EC) n. 1169/2011, food business operators are obligated to provide consumers with labeled information specifying the conditions in which a prepackaged product is to be stored and, in particular, its temperature which, except for rare cases specified by the law, must be established by the producer/manufacturer and specified on the label. Given that premise, the temperature at which shelf-life testing should be effectuated is an important element for
validating the period of time a food can be stored and, as indicated by Commission Regulation (EC) n. 2073/2005, it should be decided taking into consideration “reasonably foreseeable conditions of storage, distribution and use.” The Afnor Fa 128185 normative suggests that, whenever possible, it is best to carry out testing in the most severe conditions, and that the risk analysis of temperature control of food products must take potential degradation in the control of the cold chain into consideration and, in particular, the storage time during the various sequential stages
It is best to carry out testing in the most severe conditions
of food production and distribution until the product reaches the consumer (private home, restaurant, etc.). The food business operator should thus consider the potential influence of abuse temperature on the conservation of the food product during all steps in the production, processing and distribution chain until it reaches its final destination. There are, nevertheless, two aspects whose determination is difficult to assess in a precise way: 1. the temperatures that are reasonably
foreseeable along the entire distribution chain up to the moment that the consumer utilizes it; 2. food product laboratory testing that is capable of replicating the times and temperatures found along the distribution chain until the product reaches the consumer’s home.
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FOOD SECURI TY
There are four different stages in the distribution chain of a refrigerated product The different stages in the distribution chain of a refrigerated product are illustrated in Figure 1. Generally speaking, there are a minimum of four stages (transportation, exposition at a distribution point, transportation in a consumer’s vehicle, and domestic storage); other stages such as a storage period at a warehouse may at times be added to the list. Although only few data are available in the literature regarding the thermal/ time profile of refrigerated products subsequent to the production phase, Table 1 realistically delineates a distribution cycle that foresees 4 distinct phases and it indicates the temperature at which a product could be foreseeably stored and the length of time it can be displayed at every stage along the chain. As can be seen, with exclusion of the first stage (t1), which is managed by the producer and generally Table 1
The distribution chain of a refrigerated product
Source: Stefano Zardetto, Voltan Group, Italy, 2017
represents 25% of the food’s total shelf-life (distribution chains generally do not accept products whose residual shelf-life is less than 75%), the temperature always results higher than the 4 °C value often utilized for refrigerated products during laboratory testing. The data obtained during efforts to monitor food products displayed in retail stores (t2) show that the temperatu-
res range between 4 and 7 °C reaching, in some cases, values close to 10 °C. Temperatures in display refrigerated cabinets in retail stores can, moreover, oscillate due to cyclic defrosting controlled by the refrigeration system between +8 °C (the insertion temperature in the cabinet) and +5.5 °C. The arrangement of the products in the different areas of the refrigerated display
Temperature-time stages in the life of a refrigerated product during its shelf life STEP
Temperature t1 (storage at the producer’s/during transportation)
25% of shelf-life
Evaluation of producer’s mean temperatures 80% of products sold within 60% of the shelf life (Natura et al., 2003) in Uk and Denmark only che 41-45% of the products are kept <5 °C
Temperature t2 (storage at the producer’s/during transportation)
60% of shelf-life
Temperature t3 (storage at the producer’s/during transportation)
43 ± 18 min
10 ÷ 25
Evans et al., 1991
6 ÷ 10
Evans et al., 1991 Flynn et al., 1992 Laguerre et al., 2002 Kennedy et al., 2005
Temperature t4 (storage at the producer’s/during transportation)
1 ÷ 5 (gg)
Source: Stefano Zardetto, Voltan Group, Italy, 2017
FOOD SECURI TY
Consumers have little awareness about the cold chain
cabinets also affects the product’s temperature (the temperatures in the areas below the lighting system are higher while they are lower nearer to the cabinet walls). The way the cabinet is loaded is also crucially important as an excessive load does not permit the product, especially at its center, to reach the correct storage temperature = +4 °C (Rovere et al., 2009).
Transports details The stage during which the consumer handles, acquires and transports the product from the retail store (t3) is another important phase during which it can be exposed to high temperatures. As has been shown (Jevsnik et al., 2008), only 50% of consumers adopt appropriate measures to transport refrigerated products, and other studies have demonstrated that an hour of transportation at ambient temperatures can lead to a rise of up to 15-30 °C in the product’s temperature (James & Evans, 1992). Consumers, unfortunately, appear to have little awareness about the cold chain and its importance in food safety; they tend to think that problems in correct storage exclusively regard other links in the chain (Ovca and Jevšnik, 2009). The final phase in the time-temperature profiles of refrigerated food products is represented by domestic home storage, that is the time a food is stored in a consumer’s home until it is actually
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FOOD SECURI TY
consumed. According to Kennedy et al., (2005), 71% of monitored refrigerators had a mean temperature superior to 5 °C, nearly 25% had a mean temperature between 6 e 7 °C, and on the whole the temperatures varied between -1.7 °C and 11.8 °C. It does not seem very likely then that domestic storage takes place at temperatures lower than 5 °C.
Food deterioration processes Two models are used to quantify the effect of temperature on food deterioration processes: Arrhenius equations and linear model. According to the Arrhenius equation, the velocity constant (k) of the deterioration reaction increases in an exponential way as the temperature rises (T) according to what is defined as “the activation energy” of the reaction (Ea), and it can be inferred that the shelf-life (θs) at temperature (Ts) can be obtained from the shelf-life (θ0) at temperature (T0) using the following equation: 
According to the linear model, which is valid for relatively limited temperatures (a maximum of 30 °C), it is possible to infer from the angular coefficient of the straight line obtained by diagramming the logarithm of shelf-life (θ) with respect to temperature (°C) the value of
Q10, a temperature coefficient that indicates how the reaction proceeds more rapidly at temperature (T2) with respect to a temperature that is 10° C lower (T1). 
In order to represent the integrated effect of the temperature variability on food deterioration, the Arrhenius equation can be used to calculate the “effective temperature” (Teff ), defined as “the value of a single inferred temperature which, if maintained over a definite time period, provokes the same thermal effect on the food product that would be noted with a sequence of lower or higher temperatures maintained for an equivalent period of time. In this way, it is possible to trace all of the temperature-time fluctuations present in a given thermal profile to a single temperature value and this facilitates the execution of storage test runs. By introducing this concept, which represents the overall effect of a nonisothermal treatment with a constant
FOOD SECURI TY
value in the general equation that describes the quality function pattern (fq(A)) with a temperature variation over time, the following expression is obtained: 
where Keff is the velocity value with which the food product deterioration reaction proceeds to the effective temperature. If function T(t) is subdivided into small temporal intervals with a constant T and with ÎŁti = ttot, the following expression is obtained: 
It is possible, moreover, to introduce the concept of temperature and equivalent times, that is the time (teq) and the temperature (Teq) that prompt the same qualitative deterioration determined by the same thermal profile for a specific thermal profile. In that case, it Figure 2
An example of a non-isothermal profile that a product may be exposed to during its shelf-life
which makes it possible to calculate the Keff value and, consequently, the effective temperature using the Arrhenius model (Steele, 2004) (Figure 2).
is a question of solving the following equation calculating the circumscribed area from the thermal profile: 
Source: Stefano Zardetto, Voltan Group, Italy, 2017
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FOOD SECURI TY
We can store the food product with a sequence of variable temperatures These three different time-temperature profiles lead to the same food deterioration level and thus an equivalent result. In other words, we can store the food product with a sequence of variable temperatures (T) for an overall (ttot) time (t), or we can transform that thermal profile into storage for the overall time (ttot) to a constant temperature, called effective temperature (teq) or, finally, we can store the product for an equivalent time (teq) at a constant temperature, called equivalent temperature (teq). The advantage in the first case [overall time (ttot)- effective temperature (Teff )] is that of effectuating durability tests in a laboratory at a constant temperature capable of replicating the time and temperature profiles found along the entire distribution chain until the food product finally arrives in the consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hands. In the second case [equivalent time (teq)- equivalent temperature (Teq)], the advantage of utilizing
Equivalent thermal profiles
Source: Stefano Zardetto, Voltan Group, Italy, 2017
constant temperatures is combined with the possibility of carrying out the tests in an equivalent time that is inferior to the overall time (ttot). An example referring to three equivalent thermal profiles is shown in Figure 3.
The study on Penicillium mold in fresh packaged pasta In order to demonstrate the utility of these approaches in evaluating the effect of temperature conditions during
transportation and storage at different phases of the chain, reference can be made to the study on Penicillium mold in fresh packaged pasta that was carried out by us (Zardetto, 2004). That microorganism can develop in fresh pasta packaged under a protective atmosphere in which the product undergoes temperature abuse in the presence of a carbon dioxide level that is not high enough to completely inhibit its growth (Zardetto, 2005).
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FOOD SECURI TY
The growth values of the microorganism at three different temperatures were determined experimentally, and these data were used to calculate the energy activation (Ea); the values obtained were displayed in a semilogarithmic graph as a function of the inverse temperature (T) (in the Kelvin scale). The Ea value that was obtained by calculating the angle of the regression line was in this case equal to 16 kcal/mol (Figure 4). Based on the data outlined in Table 1, the distribution pattern that we can realistically hypothesize is characterized by an initial 15 days of storage at a company warehouse at 5 °C, an intermediate period of transportation followed by an overall storage period of 40 days at a retail store or displayed in refrigerators at a temperature of 7 °C before being purchased. The final stage of this simulation of the time-temperature profile is represented by 5 days of domestic storage at 10 °C preceded by 2 hours at 22 °C simulating transportation by the consumer. If we know the activation energy (16 kcal/mol) and use the Arrhenius equation, it is now possible to calculate the effective temperature (Teff ) at which food products should be stored to determine their shelf-life once the Keff of the reaction is determined using the equation . The effective temperature (Teff ) considering Penicillium the primary degrading agent is equal to 6.9 °C. Table 2
The relationship between temperature and the growth rate of Penicillium (Arrhenius equation; r = 0.99) Figure 4
Source: Stefano Zardetto, Voltan Group, Italy, 2017
The values obtained indicate that the tests performed on the product examined in our experimental conditions which were carried out “in reasonably foreseeable conditions of storage, distribution and use,” as indicated by Commission Regulation (EC) n. 2073/2005, could be effectuated storing the product at a constant temperature of 7 °C. The importance of storage temperature in the deterioration reaction is evident when we examine the data outlined in Table 2 regarding the hours necessary for a colony of Penicillium to reach the dimension of 3 mm and thus to become visible to the naked eye of
the consumer in fresh pasta packaged in modified atmosphere packaging (Map) conditions with a carbon dioxide level equal to 30%.
Time (in hours) for a Penicillium colony to reach the dimensions of 3 mm in fresh pasta packaged in MAP conditions (CO2 = 30%) TEMPERATURE (°C)
Without Modified Atmosphere Packaging (MAP)
Source: Stefano Zardetto, Voltan Group, Italy, 2017
FOOD SECURI TY
As can be seen, a temperature elevation of two degrees centigrade, that is, storing the product at 6 °C rather than at 4 °C determines an approximate 25% reduction in the time necessary for the colony to become visible, falling from 1452 to 384 hours and causing an important reduction in the product’s survival time. In these conditions thus, variations that may appear minimal may have a noteworthy effect on the microorganism’s growth. Carrying out tests on shelf-life utilizing constant temperatures not consistent with the product’s real storage conditions along the distribution chain can lead to incorrect shelf-life values and alteration in the product before its best before date (t>teff ) or to times that are too short to ensure the product’s distribution or with respect to other products already on the market (t<teff ). To conclude, several studies and daily
experience confirm that the temperature of refrigerated products along a distribution chain is subject to relevant variations over time. In determining the shelf-life of a product, the producer must consider these variations and carry out isothermal tests at constant temperatures and scrutinize variations that can take place along the distribution chain. The effective temperature (Teff ) represents a useful instrument
that permits the producer to consider those fluctuations and their impact on the product’s stability and quality. Its calculation implies knowing the activation energy of a reaction which causes qualitative deterioration; that value can be inferred from experimental data by applying the Arrhenius equation or by consulting the appropriate literature. Stefano Zardetto
sources • Kennedy, J., Jackson, V., Blair, I., McDowell, I.S., Cowan, D.A., Bolton, D.J. (2005). Food safety knowledge of consumers and the microbiological and temperature status of their refrigerators. Journal of Food Protection, 68, 1421-1430. • James, S., Evans, J. (1992). Consumer handling of chilled foods: temperature performance. Rev. Int. Froid. 15, 299-306. • Jevsnik, M., Hlebec, V., Raspor, P. (2008). Consumers’ awareness of food safety from shopping to eating. Food Control, 19, 737-745. • Ovca, A., Jevšnik, J. (2009). Maintaining a cold chain from purchase to the home and at home: Consumer opinions. Food Control, 20, 167-172. • Rovere, P., Brutti, A., Franceschini, B., Trasatti, L., Pittia, P. (2009).
Applicazione del modello cinetico “Mean Kinetic Temperature” (MKT) alla valutazione della temperatura nella catena del freddo. Industria Conserve, 84, 153-165. • Steele, R. (2004). Understanding and measuring the shelf-life of food. CRC Press Cambrdge UK. • Zardetto, S. (2004). Effetto della temperatura e del confezionamento in atmosfera protettiva sullo sviluppo di penicillium aurantiogriseum isolato da pasta fresca farcita. Tecnica Molitoria, 55, 1, 1-9. • Zardetto, S.. (2005). Effect of modified atmosphere packaging at abuse temperature on the growth of Penicillium aurantiogriseum isolated from fresh filled pasta. Food Microbiology, 22, 367-371.
Hau t e cuisine
The future of pasta all around the world Seafood Carbonara wins Pasta World Championship
by Delia Maria Sebelin
he pasta of the future in fine dining? Glocal recipes that respect traditional Italian regional dishes, fast and alternative cooking methods (steam, sous-videâ&#x20AC;Ś), creativity, new influences and consistenciesand extensive knowledge of the raw materials. These are just some of the cues from competing recipes in the Pasta World Championship 2017, the international competition among young chefs organised by Barilla The sixth edition took place in Italy last September. In three days, 20 young chefs from all over the world gave the best of therselves competing with their
Hau t e cuisine
The winner, Accursio Lotà, with Paolo Barilla, Vice President of Barilla Group
The pasta dish which won the competition
creative interpretation of the world’s best-loved Italian dish. The theme of this year was the future of pasta. Beating 19 competitors from 15 countries and 4 continents, the winner was Accursio Lotà, born in Sicily and a bright career in San Diego (Usa) with his dish “Seafood Carbonara”. Lotà, 32 years old, was born in a small rural town. He has always known he wanted to be a chef and after graduation, he was given the opportunity to work at the Four Seasons in Milan with Sergio Mei. At the age of 22 he moved to California where he experienced serving a meal to President Obama. After a period in Italy he went back to sunny California and he’s today he’s chef at the “Solare” restaurant in San Diego, where he was elected Best chef in town from 3 years consecutively from 2014 on. His winning dish is his own version of the most discussed and global traditional italian recipe is an explosion of barroque flavours and tastes of Sicily. He took the carbonara concept, and substituted the chicken eggs with seafood eggs. Green mandarin, and red mazara shrimps, classic ingredients from Sicily, gave the dish a Mediterranean flavour. Chef Lotà cooked seafood, scallops, red shrimps from Mazara del Vallo, cuttle fish and amberjack filet at a very slow temperature in guanciale fat, to resemble the rich meatiness of pasta Carbonara. In this way we have a new version of “Carbonara”, with no eggs and no dairy. Just other two chefs reached the final: Omir Cohen from Israel, with his “Linguine steamed grouper romesco”, and Keita Yuge from Japan, with his “Fusilli with lentils variation of scampi”.
Hau t e cuisine Pasta & culture «The Barilla Pasta World Championship is now at its sixth edition and has once again proven how important it is for promoting Italy’s gastronomic culture, the linchpin of which is pasta», Paolo Barilla, Vice Chairman of the Barilla Group said. «The championship rewards those that take our real cuisine abroad, and was created to celebrate pasta and showcase its versatility, its ability to adapt to cultures and societies that differ greatly from one another, without losing its identity. In fact, pasta brings people together: it binds them and encompasses tradition and innovation alike». «This success means a lot for me», Lotà said. «It was so exciting to be chosen amongst the 3 finalists, and actually winning has been amazing». His dish explains his vision of the future of pasta. «I work abroad, but due to my Italian roots, pasta is already perfect in its simplicity. This is why the future of pasta in my opinion will be realized not only by reinventing pasta according to oneself, but by regenerating and reworking the classic accompaniments and
Omir Cohen from Israel and the Japanese Keita Yuge who reached the final with Accursio Lotà
sauces in new ways. This doesn’t mean to destroy our traditions, but it means to rethink and reimagine both ingredients and techniques».
Not just an Italian way of cooking The figures show pasta is witnessing outstanding success around the world:
The final dish : “Linguine steamed grouper romesco”
thanks to a growth rate of 25% in the last 10 years. These days, of every four dishes of pasta served, one speaks Italian. To explain this phenomenon, here are four stories of young Italian chefs who, against all odds, have stepped up to the international plate. They have done so serving up quality food that combines passion and traditional regional Italian ties, but with a nod to innovation and outside influences. And their aim is to debunk the myth that chefs abroad do not know how to cook pasta. According to Italians, spaghetti and macaroni should to be cooked al dente, with ingredients inspired by the Mediterranean diet and portions of no more than 70-80 grams. And yet only rarely do restaurants around the world cook pasta in keeping with the traditional tenets so dear to the hearts of Italians. When they do, foreign diners do not always approve. Only a few months ago, the sacking of an Italian chef from a French restaurant because his spaghetti was too “al dente” for the tastes of four regular customers made the news. But then what else can we October/December 2017
Hau t e cuisine
expect, when so many people around the world (including the French) still view pasta as a side dish?
Al dente pasta in Scandinavia In Stockholm, Neapolitan chef Edoardo Ottati is dealing with a population very much open to change and willing to experiment. Sweden is experiencing a fully-fledged cultural revolution in the restaurant and pasta sector, with marked growth in vegetarian and green cuisine - and “slow” food. At present, chefs are the most indemand professionals, and the quality of the food being served has increased enormously over the last 10 years: there is approximately one restaurant per inhabitant in the country. And it is quality itself that inspires Ottati’s approach to pasta, with light portions (max 70 grams), quality raw materials and al dente cooking. Whilst the Swedes initially seemed sceptical, they now seem enthusiastic. «The principle I follow is to make what I myself would eat: the work of a chef is first and foremost about respecting the product used. Behind this product there is a story, there is work to be respected. For this reason, instead of reaching a compromise with the tastes of the customers, I tend to teach them above all how to cook pasta. There is occasionally a small percentage of diners who don’t understand my approach to cooking and think the pasta is under-cooked, but it’s all part of the game, you have to accept it. Generally speaking Swedes are not clients that complain much. Quite the contrary, people often want to try out food that is different. It’s nice that this is how things work here in Sweden, because sitting around a table is also about culture and sharing». At the Pasta World Championship, he presented the recipe “Spaghetti with N’duja, almonds and clams” which recalls his origins, and the cooking of
Keita Yuge dish: “Fusilli with lentils variation of scampi”
southern Italy in particular. Incredible as it might sound, he learned to cook and appreciate N’duja (the spreadable, spicy pork sausage from Calabria) in Sweden, where spicy foods are very popular.
An all-in-one meal in the Usa It is a well-known fact that Americans are bona-fide “pasta lovers”: they eat 8.8 kg per capita a year, around double the amount consumed in the ’80s. And whilst the favourite pasta is spaghetti, followed by spaghettini, gomiti and rotelle, their favourite sauce is cheese sauce Professional
(37%). And their favourite recipe? Spaghetti with meatballs. Not least because Americans like their meals to be fast allin-ones. Rome-born chef Leonardo La Cava now lives in Miami and is familiar with habits on the other side of the pond, and is all too aware of the problems involved in teaching American consumers to savour real Italian al dente pasta whilst explaining the mistakes so many touristy restaurants make. «It is a fact that chefs and restaurateurs in Miami choose to adapt to the tastes of their clients: they cannot go too far, October/December 2017
Hau t e cuisine
and pasta cooked in restaurants has to be Americanised. The most popular recipes, along with spaghetti bolognaise, are the infamous “Fettuccine all’Alfredo”, which are passed off as Italian but have very little to do with our way of cooking pasta. And in the more touristy restaurants there is a tendency to over-sauce the pasta, particularly with cream, butter and rich sauces. Yet there are restaurants with Italian owners and chefs where it is possible to eat pasta that is close to our own way of cooking it, although I cannot say it is authentically Italian pasta». At the Barilla Pasta World Championship, he took part with a recipe of “Cacio e Pepe spaghetti, red shrimps, mango tartar & raspberries”, the perfect fusion of the two cities it represents. Cacio e pepe is a byword for Roman tradition, combined with the exotic nature of mango, the fruit that represents Miami. A recipe that aims to move a step closer to the typically American concept of pasta as a meal in itself: where carbohydrates and
proteins live alongside one another in a healthy flavour explosion.
In the Uk, it is a must in the lunch break Pasta has become a must at lunchtime for Brits. They enjoy eating the dish that symbolises the Mediterranean diet at lunch because it is simple, delicious and quick. The trend is led above all by businessmen, for whom the carbohydrate supplies all the energy they need to tackle the rest of the workday. And whilst the average restaurant mostly serves up dried pasta with a carbonara or Bolognaise sauce, in London’s top restaurants it’s fresh pasta that wins hands down, with ravioli and tortellini taking first place. Aniello Da Muro left his heart in warm Procida (an island off the coast of Naples) and moved to cold London, where he works in the restaurant of the prestigious Arts Club. He is aware that there is still much to do to improve the quality of pasta cuisine, in spite of all the efforts made by the British authorities and media to encourage
healthier gastronomic habits inspired by the Mediterranean diet. «Traditional “al dente” pasta - states Da Muro - is unlikely to go down well with English tastes. If we serve it at the restaurant people think it is undercooked. In order to work, most restaurant owners adapt to local tastes. So the end product is a dish which is far removed from what we are used to eating in Italy. In any case, my approach is to apply that touch of Italian, Mediterranean style, to combine the needs of the local consumer with tradition. So far the results have been good». For the Pasta World Championship, he prepared the recipe “Rocks and the Sea Linguine”. It is a reference to his Procida and the sea, both in terms of the presentation of the dish and the choice of ingredients, all inspired by the Mediterranean diet: spaghetti, tomatoes, mussels, clams, red mullet, white wine, parsley and a touch of chilli pepper. An innovative new reworking, particularly with regard to the cooking method, as everything is steamed sous-vide.
In the Us “Spaghetti with meatballs” likes still a lot
Hau t e cuisine
The French prefer smaller formats
In France is a side dish It is a well-known fact that the French are very proud people. For this reason, the tendency is to reproduce Italian pasta recipes but make them more French, whilst attempting to maintain the Italian concept, or at least their interpretation of it. But the result is not always as one might hope. Far and away the most common dishes are the carbonara, with the addition of cream, an ingredient which is commonly used in French cuisine, and the classic spaghetti with tomato sauce, which is the real must-have. Yet on menus, pasta is mostly considered a side dish used to accompany foods such as meat or fish. This is what emerges from the somewhat disillusioned tale of Federico Benedetto, just 23 years old and the head of side dishes in an awardwinning restaurant in Paris, who is truly passionate about pasta. «Real pasta is prepared exclusively in Italy. What you find abroad is just a reinterpretation, created in keeping with the tastes and dietary habits of the different countries. In France, it is the very concept of pasta which is very different to our own. It is viewed as a side dish, not as the main part of a meal, particularly lunch. And as regards the choice of pasta formats, French tastes differ radically to ours. We Italians like pasta formats that withstand cooking properly, that
In China pasta has become very popular
give the dish bite and consistency. The French, on the other hand, like most foreigners, prefer smaller formats that can be overcooked, and which are also more palatable for using as a side dish to serve alongside meat or fish. The most common, popular format is the “petites coquilles”, little shells». For the Pasta World Championship he prepared “Mare Nostrum Vocat Estrum Linguine (Linguine with lemon, clams and powder clams)”, dividing this dish into two smaller, quite separate dishes: the linguine and the stuffed clams. It is a choice dictated on the one hand by his desire to showcase pasta alone in its purest state, on the other hand to make a recipe in keeping with the typically French interpretation of it as a side dish.
Constantly evolving in China Chef Leon Li is 25 years old and hails from Beijing, with a career that has already seen him working in the restaurants of some of the Chinese capital’s bestknown hotels. China is a country where Italian durum wheat pasta has entered the scene as an outsider, challenging the might of Chinese spaghetti-like noodles. Nonetheless, the world’s most populous country is displaying a steady growth trend, in spite of the fact that the Western concept of “boil and drain” Professional
is not very well suited to the equipment and architecture of Asian cuisine. According to Li, «in China, pasta has become very popular, particularly amongst younger consumers. From what I can make out in my personal experience as a chef, I’d say that local clients generally give me positive feedback, so my dishes seem to satisfy local tastes. As regards the future of pasta, I think China is set to develop more and more, and pasta will probably become an essential dish on the tables of every family. Different ways of cooking and eating pasta will gradually spread throughout the country, and as a result more and more people will become pasta enthusiasts». At the Pasta World Championship he prepared “Tepid Rigatoni with a scampi ceviche”, which aims to build a bridge between East and West, combining typically Chinese flavours with a more international twist. «My inspiration came from the wellknown Chinese ravioli - he reveals - I also maintained the freshness of the ingredients by leaving them almost raw and natural. I dressed the rigatoni pasta with a scampi ceviche that gives the Orientally-inspired recipe an international touch but also recalls the flavours of southern Italy». Delia Maria Sebelin October/December 2017
NEW SYNERGIES WILL STRENGTHEN ANSELMO BRAND IN THE WORLD OF DRY PASTA EQUIPMENT Anselmo, a world-renowned company for industrial equipment for dry pasta production, reaffirms its presence on both domestic and international markets. Established in 1978 with the initial aim of providing maintenance services to pasta factories operating in Italy and abroad, the company has evolved over the decades following a continuous development and installing its own equipment, result of a deep knowledge of pasta production process and a research for the best constructive features, based on a consolidated know-how (acquired with Braibanti technology) and, at the same time, on innovative solutions. An activity carried out with passion, determination and devotion from Anselmo family, with a clear approach: to build fully reliable machines, where the production of high quality pasta is guaranteed since the first minutes of start-up, production capacity is normally higher than the expected nominal value; equipment where there’s mostly no need for maintenance during the first years of life and where energy consumption is lower than any solution on the market. All these advantages are coming with an essential plus: one of the most competitive price on the market. Thanks to these features, Anselmo plants are widely known as the most reliable and productive ones, providing the highest profitability against investment.
Uberto Selvatico Estense (left) and Fabrizio Anselmo
Today, on the threshold of the 40th anniversary of the foundation, Anselmo launches a new challenge, exploiting new business synergies with the goal of consolidating its presence on the market. This scenario became real as the activities of the company were taken over by a new partner, Dr. Uberto Selvatico Estense, a wellknown Italian entrepreneur leading Isaf Group, affirmed in the field of ferrous and nonferrous metal working, and several industrial realities, operating in most diversified sectors, from Oil & Gas to the electro-medical. The main goal of the company’s mission, says the new administration, has always been and will remain “to provide maximum value to customers”. For this reason, Anselmo brand remains unchanged; Anselmo Impianti S.r.l. has in fact completed a Business Renting operation with Anselmo S.p.A., definitely preserving both the brand and the reliable technology. Anselmo family still actively contributes to new business strategies, carrying over a great knowledge built up over the years, as well as a company staff that has acquired precious skills. The operative production unit remains in the historical site, located in Bene Vagienna (Cuneo), guaranteeing absolute continuity to a reality that has definitely seen its origins and its strength in a strong link with the territory. Many goals will be pursued, in order to consolidate and further strengthen the presence of Anselmo brand on the international market, primarily a continuous improvement of Customer Service, with which the company wants to maintain a trustful relationship with customers in a long term. Among a wide range of projects, new investments in terms of simulation and design tools, as well as a wide increase of the sales network in order to be even more present close to the customers. From a technical point of view, there is an ongoing process of lines optimization, ranging from short goods, long ones, special shapes and couscous, maintaining as primary targets quality and reliability, without reducing equipment flexibility and keeping a quality/price ratio more and more competitive.
Pavan Group joins the world of GEA A
long the lines of the growth and development strategy conducted for over 70 years, Pavan Group will join the industrial Group GEA, to increase its range of technologies with its know-how and experience in the field of plants for the milling industry, for the extrusion of pasta, snacks and breakfast cereals, as well as packaging. The transaction is still subject to approval by the competent antitrust authorities. The acquisition is likely to be completed in the course of 2017.
GEA is headquartered in Germany and one of the largest suppliers for the food processing industry and for a wide range of other industries. The international technology group focuses on process technology and components for sophisticated production processes in various end-user markets. The group generates around 70% of its revenue in the food and beverages sector that enjoys long-term sustainable growth. With its 17,000 employees worldwide, GEA in 2016 generated consolidated revenues of approximately 4,5 billion euros.
Andrea Cavagnis, who has directed Pavan Group for 25 years, will maintain his role as President. The roles of Pavanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s whole management team have been confirmed, to highlight the continuity with a management which has reached a few outstanding goals. For over 70 years Pavan has proposed a business model fulfilling all the requirements from the global market, constantly reaching its long-term targets. With 2016 turnover of 155 mln euros, the Group employs almost 700 people in 7 plants and is a world leader in the
design and realization of technologies and integrated product lines for cereal-based food, from the handling of raw materials to final packaging. «We do believe that this model can reach better performances operating within a bigger and solid Group as GEA is, in order to remain strong and competitive on a global market that increased the need for human and financial resources», president and Ceo Pavan Group, Mr. Andrea Cavagnis says. «Therefore we have decided to support this new development stage along with GEA, as we believe it represents the best possible partner to strengthen October/December 2017
Pavan’s potential, while ensuring a coherent strategy, an effective organisation and a solid financial status. GEA will be engaged in promoting our growth, in compliance with the strategic and technological choices of the past few decades, aiming at developing the best technologies and offering our clients the best products and services. The management and structure of Pavan Group will continue to be the same ones that led to the results which have marked the growth of the Group». To GEA this acquisition is a milestone for the growth and development strategy of its activities in the food industry. Pavan’s Professional
know-how in the extrusion technologies, the wide range of industrial solutions, R&D’s constant work and its presence in the main international markets represent the basis to strengthen growth, especially as far as integrated process solutions are concerned. GEA’s acquisition marks a new growth stage for Pavan, that will rely on the support of a big brand with solid industrial and financial capacity and with the ability to enhance and promote the development of innovative technologies and commercial synergy, aiming at offering clients high quality products and services.
Storci & Pasta di Canossa present “My Instant pasta” N
atural, handy, quick and tasty! These are the characteristics of “My instant pasta”, the latest success of Pasta di Canossa Factory. It is produced in three different tastes and shapes: tricoloured fusilli, cheese maccheroni, veg mince ragout penne. “My instant pasta” represents the right combination between the bronze drawn pasta taste - already produced by Pasta di Canossa Factory - and the convenience of a meal ready to be savoured. Thanks to the handy cup, it takes 3 minutes only and some hot water to have a complete meal, 100% organic, to be eaten wherever you like, as an alternative to the standard sandwich: at school,
at work, with friends... the traditional Italian pasta in an innovative pack. “My instant pasta” is produced using Storci lines. Indeed the Canossas, who have been owning an Omnia line since 2014 for the production of several types of dry pasta, have grasped the
Long goods pasta line
huge potential of instant pasta and decided to equip their existing plant with a cooker, supplied by Storci, for instant pasta production. Instant pasta - Storci’s way: do not miss the chance to move forward into the future of your pasta production.
“My instant pasta” is produced using Storci lines
Ishida Europe celebrates 20 years of Uk manufacturing T he company opened a dedicated European facility for the assembly of its market-leading multihead weighers and checkweighers in Woodgate, Birmingham in September 1997. Since then Uk staff numbers have increased from around 40 to over 400 and production has more than quadrupled. Today the range of products manufactured for the Emea market also includes filling / distribution systems, graders, tray sealers, pick & place robots, seal testers and the recentlylaunched award-winning AirScan leak detector. In addition, as Ishida has further expanded its offering over the years to include the design of complete packing lines for a variety of fresh food applications, the Woodgate factory is also involved in the
supply of infrastructure equipment such as gantries and conveyors for complete turnkey factory installations. «The 20 year milestone is a significant one for Ishida Uk manufacturing which has allowed us to take stock of just how far we have come in a relatively short time», comments John Priest, Ishida Europe’s Operations Director. «We have a fantastic workforce committed to
achieving the highest standards and delivering the highest quality machines. Proof of this has come with a recent order from a major multinational customer which specified all equipment be produced at our Woodgate factory. This resulted in machines being delivered to all parts of the world, which even included the supply of multihead weighers from the UK back to Japan».
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