JAPANESE
SOUL COOKING Tadashi Ono & Harris Salat
RAMEN, TONKATSU, TEMPURA AND MORE from THE STREETS and KITCHENS OF TOKYO AND BEYOND
Photography by Todd Coleman
JAPANESE
SOUL COOKING Tadashi Ono & Harris Salat
RAMEN, TONKATSU, TEMPURA AND MORE from THE STREETS and KITCHENS OF TOKYO AND BEYOND
Photography by Todd Coleman
CONTENTS Acknowledgements vii
10 SOBA • 159
Introduction 1
11 UDON • 173
1 RAMEN • 5
12 ITAME & CHAHAN • 187
2 GYOZA • 27
13 YOSHOKU • 205
3 CURRY • 43
Japanese Ingredients 234
4 TONKATSU • 59 5 FURAI & KOROKKE • 75
Tokyo Comfort Food Restaurants 237
6 KARA-AGE • 93
Measurement Conversion Charts 239
7 TEMPURA • 107
About the Authors 241
8 OKONOMIYAKI • 127
Index 242
9 DONBURI • 141
CONTENTS Acknowledgements vii
10 SOBA • 159
Introduction 1
11 UDON • 173
1 RAMEN • 5
12 ITAME & CHAHAN • 187
2 GYOZA • 27
13 YOSHOKU • 205
3 CURRY • 43
Japanese Ingredients 234
4 TONKATSU • 59 5 FURAI & KOROKKE • 75
Tokyo Comfort Food Restaurants 237
6 KARA-AGE • 93
Measurement Conversion Charts 239
7 TEMPURA • 107
About the Authors 241
8 OKONOMIYAKI • 127
Index 242
9 DONBURI • 141
CLASSIC TONKATSU
Slice the cabbage as thinly as possible (you can use a mandoline or other slicer). Follow instructions in Ultra-Crunchy Cabbage (see page 67) and set aside. To prepare the pork fillets, lay the fillets flat on a chopping board. Tap the fillets with the back edge of a kitchen knife (the edge opposite the blade) to dig notches into the meat. Turn the knife so the flat side is facing the fillets. Pound the meat with the knife’s flat side about 6–8 times on each side of the pork to flatten the meat to about 1 cm (1/2 in) thick. Cut 1-cm (1/2-in) notches into the white fat of the fillets, which will prevent the fillet from curling when frying. (Fat shrinks faster than the meat when
SERVES 4 350 g (3⁄4 lb) cabbage, cored 4 fillets boneless pork shoulder or pork tenderloin (450 g/1 lb), about 2 cm (3⁄4 in) thick Salt and ground black pepper 2 eggs 70 g (1⁄2 cup) flour 280 g (2 cups) panko crumbs Vegetable oil for deep-frying 4 teaspoons Japanese karashi mustard (see page 234) 125 ml (1⁄2 cup) tonkatsu sauce, shop-bought or homemade (page 62) Steamed rice, to serve
deep-frying.) Season the fillets on both sides with salt and pepper. Transfer the prepared pork fillets to a plate. Beat the eggs in a bowl and set aside. Prepare 4 plates. Pour the flour onto the first plate. Pour the beaten egg onto the second plate. Pour the panko onto the third plate. Leave the fourth plate empty for now (this plate will hold the breaded tonkatsu). Place a deep cast-iron frying pan on the hob. Fill the pan with vegetable oil to a height of at least 2.5 cm (1 in). Attach a kitchen thermometer to the side of the
Tonkatsu
Ladies and gentlemen, may we have your attention, please: for your gustatory pleasure and delight, we now present the star of this chapter, tonkatsu. Here it is, the classic method, which is so incredibly satisfying, and also so easy to whip up. In this recipe, Tadashi shares a family secret – coat the pork with flour and egg twice, which makes the tonkatsu even crunchier. (Old-school tonkatsu joints in Japan, by the way, often use lard instead of oil for frying, which makes the tonkatsu even crunchier, but we’re sticking to oil and saving on the heart bypass surgery bills, thank you very much.) Be sure to use a kitchen (or ‘sugar’) thermometer to gauge temperature while you deep-fry; the easiest way to screw up this dish is to fry the pork too hot or too cold. In Japan, they say you deep-fry the tonkatsu until it’s the colour of kitsune, that is, the golden brown hue of a fox. Serve the pork this way: sliced into strips, resting against a mound of shredded cabbage, slathered in tonkatsu sauce, and with a dab of sinus-clearing karashi mustard on the side. A bowl of steaming white rice on the side is also mandatory. Now, that’s what we call a meal, about as elemental and comforting as it gets.
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CLASSIC TONKATSU
Slice the cabbage as thinly as possible (you can use a mandoline or other slicer). Follow instructions in Ultra-Crunchy Cabbage (see page 67) and set aside. To prepare the pork fillets, lay the fillets flat on a chopping board. Tap the fillets with the back edge of a kitchen knife (the edge opposite the blade) to dig notches into the meat. Turn the knife so the flat side is facing the fillets. Pound the meat with the knife’s flat side about 6–8 times on each side of the pork to flatten the meat to about 1 cm (1/2 in) thick. Cut 1-cm (1/2-in) notches into the white fat of the fillets, which will prevent the fillet from curling when frying. (Fat shrinks faster than the meat when
SERVES 4 350 g (3⁄4 lb) cabbage, cored 4 fillets boneless pork shoulder or pork tenderloin (450 g/1 lb), about 2 cm (3⁄4 in) thick Salt and ground black pepper 2 eggs 70 g (1⁄2 cup) flour 280 g (2 cups) panko crumbs Vegetable oil for deep-frying 4 teaspoons Japanese karashi mustard (see page 234) 125 ml (1⁄2 cup) tonkatsu sauce, shop-bought or homemade (page 62) Steamed rice, to serve
deep-frying.) Season the fillets on both sides with salt and pepper. Transfer the prepared pork fillets to a plate. Beat the eggs in a bowl and set aside. Prepare 4 plates. Pour the flour onto the first plate. Pour the beaten egg onto the second plate. Pour the panko onto the third plate. Leave the fourth plate empty for now (this plate will hold the breaded tonkatsu). Place a deep cast-iron frying pan on the hob. Fill the pan with vegetable oil to a height of at least 2.5 cm (1 in). Attach a kitchen thermometer to the side of the
Tonkatsu
Ladies and gentlemen, may we have your attention, please: for your gustatory pleasure and delight, we now present the star of this chapter, tonkatsu. Here it is, the classic method, which is so incredibly satisfying, and also so easy to whip up. In this recipe, Tadashi shares a family secret – coat the pork with flour and egg twice, which makes the tonkatsu even crunchier. (Old-school tonkatsu joints in Japan, by the way, often use lard instead of oil for frying, which makes the tonkatsu even crunchier, but we’re sticking to oil and saving on the heart bypass surgery bills, thank you very much.) Be sure to use a kitchen (or ‘sugar’) thermometer to gauge temperature while you deep-fry; the easiest way to screw up this dish is to fry the pork too hot or too cold. In Japan, they say you deep-fry the tonkatsu until it’s the colour of kitsune, that is, the golden brown hue of a fox. Serve the pork this way: sliced into strips, resting against a mound of shredded cabbage, slathered in tonkatsu sauce, and with a dab of sinus-clearing karashi mustard on the side. A bowl of steaming white rice on the side is also mandatory. Now, that’s what we call a meal, about as elemental and comforting as it gets.
continued >
65