SPECIAL THANKS LA MODE OUTRÉ WORD OF ART lamodeoutre.blogspot.com Tania Chew, Clarissa Quek & James Bent Celine Tan MILK PHOTOGRAPHIE VUE PRIVÉE milkphotographie vueprivee.com Brendan Zhang Olivier Henry NELOU Bloggers nelou.com Jo & Sarah Regine Harr & Boris wottoncool.com Berghammer Graphic Designer SHENTONISTA Michael Chng shentonista.sg Darren Lee Photographer Clifford Loh TONGUE IN CHIC tonguechic.com Loo Jia-Wei
Danielle Siauw |Founder| Danielle@fashionspace.com Augustus Loi |Editor| Augustus@fashionspace.com Dorothy Tan |Writer| Dorothy@fashionspace.com Ong Yi Qin |Writer| Qin@fashionspace.com Brendan Zhang |Photographer| Michael Chng |Cover Artist| Xavier Sanjiman Jeanette Lau |Technical| Contributors: Faz Abdul Gaffa
ByFS
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Founder of FashionSpace Danielle lives and breathes the Internet. Her 14-years career spans technology and online marketing, covering almost every aspect of the Web. A fashionista and shopaholic herself, ending up in fashion was hardly a surprise. The idea for FashionSpace had been brewing for over five years and finally came into fruition in 2011, thanks to the many Angels in her life.
How did a smart cookie such as Augustus end up writing about fashion? Because bad fashion is fatal: he’ll step on your neck the next time he sees you in one of those tees with sexual haikus on the front. Big deal that it’s pure cotton, spun by Third World natives with a giant crank, using only their bare feet since they have no hands.
Besides being a full-time geek, she also sells her paintings to pay for those new shoes she seems to always have.
When not mowing down hapless fashion victims, Augustus enjoys proselytizing against a life lived in denim.
Reading comes in at a close second – but only obscure books on post-post-postmodern philosophy or some other gobbledygook – since, really,what’s the point of reading what everyone else has read? ...................................
While Faz Abdul Gaffa may wear several hats at any one point in time, she doesn’t stray too far away from her one true love – writing. With eight years of hob-nobbing, jetsetting, and occasionally bloodcurdling experience in her back pocket including a fashion editor stint at
a men’s magazine and later on, an editor at a bridal title, Faz is now at a point in her life where she’s welcoming new challenges to take on.
CONTRIBUTORS
her true love – writing. She has been blogging about fashion for five years and now rambles on about beautiful clothes and shoes (or whatever catches her When not writing up a storm or fancy) at Dfordot.com. gallivanting across the globe, Faz seeks solace in whipping When she is not writing up spicy meals in the kitchen about style, shopping, design and curling up with her partner or lifestyle, you will find her on his couch, watching reruns doing ‘research’ on online of Sanford & Son and Martin. shopping sites, with her nose ................................... stuck between the pages of a Penguin Classic or traipsing around in another city playing out the role of A Stranger In A Strange Land. She also thinks that Abbey Road is probably the best record ever made. ................................... It’s the same age-old story that somehow never gets old. Dorothy traded in her day job to pursue
An accountancy student by day, Qin spends the rest of her time curled up in bed with a good movie or a K-pop track. Qin is also a BlackBerry addict and a certified Hello Kitty aficionado.
Her greatest fashion memory involved a fashion show and a child-like awe at the stunning clothes before her. That was when she was sure that fashion is, and will continue to It all started when Qin be, a big part of her pink, pink found fashion and gave up life. her berm-and-tunic ways. One thing led to another and a style blog was born.
CONTENT
FEATURE |74|
FOUNDER’S LETTER |6| |8| ACCESORIES BEST ASIAN DESIGNERS SPRING ROUNDUP (MEN) SPRING ROUNDUP (WOMEN)
TREND ROUNDUP |24| NYFW12 |28| INTERVIEW TONGUE IN CHIC NELOU JAMES BENT WOTTONCOOL CLIFFORD
PHOTO ESSAY |52| DARREN LEE (SHENTONISTA.SG)
|120| COLUMN
IT TAKES TWO: COLLABORATION IN FASHION
|82| SPECIALS
PARCO NEXT NEXT 2HB 20TWOTHREE FOREWORD LION EARL MILS REVASSEUR SALONI RATHOR Wiil.LiaM ATELIER WSDM
FOUNDER’S LETTER This issue of ByFS is all about team spirit. Sounds strange, but in the fashion world, it’s tough to get by without a little help from your friends. The recent H&M and Marni collaboration was a huge success with items selling out in hours. Closer to home, PARCO next NEXT revealed their next wave of up and coming local designers this month. This feat of effort from the industry launches in April. With that in mind, the FS team spoke with half of the cohort to bring you the scoop, with another half to follow in May.
Here at FashionSpace, we work with some of the best in the region, and we are proud to present 20 By Two, a cross-cultural fashion exchange in partnership with Tongue in Chic, Malaysia’s leading online fashion portal. 20 By Two brings together 20 fashion brands from Singapore and Malaysia in a unique blend of fashion, art, and technology. Held as mirror events in two cities, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, 20 By Two will showcase the best in regional talent and retail technology.
We talk with Tongue in Chic founder Jia Wei fashion revolution – and win some prizes along about online fashion and her involvement in 20 the way. By Two. So, fashion is a team sport. As we approach For the past few months, FashionSpace has the anniversary of FashionSpace, less than collaborated with James Bent, the lens-man a month away, we have to look back with behind top street style blog La Mode Outré, to gratitude for all the people who’ve helped us bring you some of the best looks from around along the way. Asia. See what he has to say about the fashion scene in Asia and Singapore. But fashion is also a contact sport, and for the readers of ByFS, we’ve got your back – and What’s more? The new FashionSpace launches we know you’ve got ours. this month. Watch our homepage for the latest Yours, and find out how you can be a part of this
Danielle
ACCESSORIES
Writer DOROTHY TAN
BEST ASIAN DESIGNERS
We’ve been talking quite a bit about our knows about the power of accessorising: a local design talent lately. And this time striking add-on can transform the plainest around, the spotlights are on the acces- outfit into something interesting. sories designers. Unlike the mass-produced accessories you Unlike their counterparts who design clothes, find in dozens of highstreet chain-stores they usually do not hold fashion shows to across the island, most of the pieces created showcase their wares. This makes it more by these designers are either produced in difficult for them to spread the word about limited runs or one-of-a-kind. their work. If bumping into someone wearing the same This may be the reason why many Singapo- thing is the fashionista’s biggest fear, the reans know little about our small but creative chance of that happening to you is next to nil group of accessories designers, many of with one of these names. whom have been in the scene for a while now. From the girly to the avant garde, the lovely, In a way, they are the unsung heroes of the statement-making creations by the following local fashion scene. Every stylish person designers are high on our wish list right now!
VICE & VANITY
From delicate 14-karat gold trinkets to The chunky statement necklaces, bracelets and wooden animal motifs and colourful beaded brooches by Vice & Vanity look more like pieces strands, WoonHung’s versatile style always of modern art than mere fashion accessories. promises to bring something new to the table. Vivi Masturah Lim and Aaron Kao, the dynamic duo behind this cult local label, were not formally trained in jewellery design and started out with zero knowledge. They’ve since become a success story in Singapore’s fashion retail scene. The inspirations for their bold, quirky and sometimes surrealist creations are diverse, ranging from poetry to existentialism and beauty. Not for the faint-hearted, these make for excellent conversation fodder.
WOONHUNG
INEZ DESIGNS Inez Tan has always been fascinated with craft, so it is hardly surprising that she ended up as an accessories designer today. Going into accessories design was a happy accident and to our benefit, she has not looked back since. Having gone from strength to strength in her two short years in the business, one of the highlights of Inez’s career includes a special capsule collection with local fashion label Hansel last year.
WoonHung makes the kind of strong, atten- Each piece in her collections is lovingly tion-grabbing accessories that still manage to handmade and her colourful, flamboyant styles are sure to brighten up your day. The affordretain a soft femininity. able prices (from SGD49) are the cherry on Working with only the best materials from this cake. Japan, the Czech Republic and South Korea, the pieces may also feature vintage parts and findings, thus making them truly unique. Having also dabbled in illustration and visual merchandising, WoonHung’s creations exude a quiet elegance, sophistication and timeless appeal.
ACCESSORIES
SPRING ROUNDUP (MEN) Gone are the days when men complained about the lack of diversity in men’s clothing. These days, lines are blurred when it comes to his-or-hers, and more often than not, the men’s section of the store is far more covetable than the women’s.
Here are our favourite trends for men’s accessories this SS12.
Writer FAZ ABDUL GAFFA
MUST-HAVE #1: BIG BAGS Once upon a time, a man was made fun of for carrying a purse to an audition (and that man was Joey Tribbiani, in case you can’t recall). Today, there’s nothing quite to it, and this season, men’s bags have gotten bigger, and more often than not, better. Get set for Burberry’s lightweight straw material woven into beautiful bags, Hermes’ to-diefor large Birkin for men, travel bags from Louis Vuitton and, the Celine Phantom-inspired silhouette of Gucci and, of course, Louis Vuitton. What delicious bags.
ACCESSORIES
MUST-HAVE #2: MAN CLUTCHES Call it what you want to - document holder,iPad holder,or the man purse - the clutch is here to stay. Available in mixed textures, colours and studs, man clutches rocked the runways at the likes of Bottega and Prada.
MUST-HAVE #3: KNIT TIES Thin knit ties are haute this season - there’s a little David Hockney spirit to the stripes and the knot is compact at the neck.
ACCESSORIES
MUST-HAVE #4: SUEDE WINGTIPS Suede is no longer reserved for the colder months of the year. These are different from the conventional, though - the soles are of a different colour, and the shape is stronger. Rock the sockless look with these babies.
ACCESSORIES
SPRING ROUNDUP (WOMEN) While our fashion mavens in the other hemisphere are welcoming, with wide open arms, the gorgeous season of Spring, we, in this part of the world are welcoming the festival of spring shades that are flocking our favourite stores. This week, we round out the musthaves in the realm of bags, shoes and accessories to give your wardrobe the quick updating it needs.
Here are our favourite trends for women’s accessories this SS12.
Writer FAZ ABDUL GAFFA
MUST HAVE BAG TREND #1: SUCCULENT SHADES It’s no surprise that after the doom-and-gloom that comes with winter, everybody wants bright colours, and what better way to jazz up your outfit than a louda-than-yer-momma bag.
ACCESSORIES
MUST HAVE BAG TREND #2: ITTY BITTY BAGS There are small clutch bags, and then there are tiny ones which fit just a little bit more than just your cell and your favourite gloss for the night. Just make sure your man brings his credit card for the evening – cos’ you’re obviously not bringing any!
MUST HAVE BAG TREND #3: SATCHELS From the oh-so-famous Cambridge Satchel Company to the still-hot Mulberry Alexa, the satchel is here to stay. The Alexa has been given an update – exotic skins and more wicked colours to whet your sartorial appetite.
ACCESSORIES MUST HAVE SHOE TREND #1: CHUNKY PLATFORMS As we bid farewell to stilettos that get stuck in between cobblestone pavements, we welcome its more stable sister, the chunky platform. Sturdier, with clean lines, it has rocked the runways of Celine and YSL, amongst many, and we expect the style to trickle to the high street big wigs.
MUST HAVE SHOE TREND #3: WEDGES
MUST HAVE SHOE TREND #2: POINTY TOES Pointy-toed heels are rocking the runway, and we can see why: they command attention, and they’re the best kind of CFM** shoes. We love them!
Every Spring, wedges and espadrilles come back in season and we don’t mind them at all – our arches deserve some rest and these sassy babies help!
ACCESSORIES MUST HAVE JEWELLRY TREND #2: TRIBAL
MUST HAVE JEWELLRY TREND #1: SPORTY AESTHETICS Think brightly colored watches to coordinate with hoodies and neoprene accents evident on 2012 spring runways. Rummage through your wardrobe for your pops of colours from our Swatch watches and you’re ready to rock.
Angular pieces like square rings and bangles as well as horn and wooden accents have taken over many a Spring runway. If you don’t want to look like you’ve just stepped off a Lion King set, amalgamate the all-white trend of this season with off-white tribal accessories. Totally chic, we reckon.
MUST HAVE JEWELLRY TREND #3: CHANDELIER EARRINGS Yup, they’re back again. Although this time, they’re more modestly sized, and not so painful for our ears.
TRENDS
Writer DOROTHY TAN
TREND ROUNDUP:
NYFW12 Held in the only American city of the four major fashion capitals, New York Fashion Week oozes a distinctive new-world vibe that is completely its own.
Although it boasts veteran designers such as Donna Karan, Oscar de la Renta and Calvin Klein, it is the Big Apple’s ability to produce and nurture progressive, innovative young design talents that is the secret to its dynamic and vibrant fashion industry.
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RODARTE
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While they may not have the rich, impressive heritage of the European fashion houses, New York’s young labels make up for that with daring creativity, modern visions and unbridled enthusiasm for forging the new and yet-to-be. If the future is indeed bright, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler and The Row will probably be leading the way.
When it comes to the new, few are as good as the Mulleavy sisters at delighting the jaded fashion crowed with a different point of view. The Rodarte collections, often inspired by anti-urban settings (e.g. Northern California’s Muir Woods), brought a fresh perspective to hyper-cosmopolitan New York. With the Australian outback as their starting point, their Fall/Winter 2012 showing was a treasure trove of cityfriendly looks that still retained their signature eccentric dreaminess.
PROENZA SCHOULER Click to view video
With 2012 marking their 10th year in the business, Proenza Schouler is technically not that young anymore.
TRENDS
THE ROW
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Yet, they continue to possess that rare superpower of always being right on the pulse of cool, thus making them demi-gods to legions of style-conscious young fans who feel that the wonder duo are reading their minds.
each season, but you know it will be good. For Fall/Winter 2012, they plugged into toughgirl mode with urban-warrior staples, only with a twist (e.g. boxy, oversized biker jackets).
To spice it up even more, they added a dose In other words, they understand youth - of Orientalism, which not surprisingly, they and what it desires. You never quite know have made more hip than kitsch. what Proenza Schouler will come up with
It seems that Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen are destined to become poster girls for whatever they choose to apply their talents to - in this case, celebrities-turned-fashion designers. Advocating an elegant and simple aesthetic that focuses on the fit, cut and construction of the garments, The Row is the high fashion equivalent of Scandinavian furniture. Carving out a niche for themselves with their emphasis on using only the finest, most luxurious materials, they created a new, intriguing minimalist-maximalist style. Sticking to these principles in Fall/Winter 2012, they created a collection of clean, uncomplicated silhouettes, soothing neutral colours and sensual details. If you calculated based on cost per wear, these timeless pieces are quite a bargain.
INTERVIEW
Writer AUGUSTUS LOI
TONGUE IN CHIC FS: How would you describe Tongue in Chic? J: Tongue in Chic is a fashion media site dedicated to bringing our readers the latest updates on fashion, beauty and talent in Southeast Asia and the world!
FS: What challenges have you faced as a company? J: Being one of the first players in digital fashion, you pretty much function without the support of an ecosystem.
We hope to create a buzz for people trying to We are very much a content business and make their mark in the fashion industry, and all our resources are poured into generating provide real information for those who want to original, and exciting content for our readers. get to know Southeast Asia through fashion. Because of that we don’t make the most tradiFS: How did it begin? What was the inspira- tional decisions when it comes to maximising tion? our site traffic such as turning the site into a J: We started as a blog in 2008, founded by content aggregator. Joyce Wong of kinkybluefairy.net and Adrian Yap of Freeform. They recognised a vacuum We are more focused on socialising the site in the digital media space for fashion and took and building our community around the brand the initiative to create a digital fashion commu- as a voice they trust on fashion. This has lead nity. to steady, but slower, growth. Because of their hard work, it has grown into a community of 5,000, with monthly pageviews of 200,000. In September of 2011, Tongue in Chic was incorporated as a stand-alone company and is now a full-fledged fashion site.
But we believe that with our new content structure and the introduction of ticTV, that will soon change. As readers become a bit more exposed, a bit savvier, they will want better and more stimulating content.
FS: What do you think makes Tongue in Chic unique? J: I think what makes us unique is our connection with our readers. We’ve managed to cultivate a very open and honest relationship with our readers – they are very vocal about what they like, and loathe on the site.
organic that beneath the purist ideal of what fashion is, is a multi-disciplinary creative force. Also, I love shopping.
FS: Can you tell us a bit about 20 By Two? What are your own objectives for this? J: 20 By Two... I’m so excited! 20 By Two is a cross-channel exchange of ten Malaysian Also, we provide a platform for local and and ten Singaporean designers. Ten Malaysian regional designers who traditionally don’t get a designers will travel to Singapore to present in lot of press inches. a pop-up retail space for a weekend and vice versa. FS: What are some of your best memories since starting the company? This will be supported by an online store J: I officially came on board at Tongue in Chic spearheaded by FashionSpace as well. in September 2011, but prior to that worked at Freeform as Creative Director for their I’m quite surprised that this hasn’t happened events arm, DSTNCT. So I guess I was there sooner, actually. Urban markets in Kuala from the very beginning. Lumpur and Singapore are so small, I think it’s a great opportunity to look at fashion beyond My best memories are working with our tiny our local markets, and into regional markets. team then and executing all the events. We would erect backdrops ourselves, and paint It will be a great opportunity for the Malaysian tables and chairs until three in the morning for designers to connect with their existing and new our events! fans and expand beyond just Kuala Lumpur. FS: How did you get into fashion? J: I’ve never had a decidedly ‘fashion’ background. I studied Fine Art and Set Design, but decided that I wanted to be neither after having dabbled in it for a few years. I think that’s what’s great about fashion. It’s so
FS: How did we come about working together on this? J: Danielle (the FashionSpace founder) was like, “Yo, I have an idea. You want to work on this togther?” and I said “Yeah. This is great. Let’s do it.”
Click to view video FS: Do you have a philosophy behind the selection of your Malaysian designers? J: We look at designers who design and create their own lines, of course. Then, we go for designers who we feel have regional appeal and also a unique identity.
FS: Anything you’re working on that you’d like to share with us? J: We just launched ticTV two weeks ago and we’re really excited about that.
We’ll be producing weekly episodes which will be a mix of fashion and beauty tutorials, Designers who are great innovators really get tongue-in-cheek looks at the world of fashion our heartbeats racing. and also branded content for our partners. I’m really looking forward to seeing it grow!
INTERVIEW
Writer AUGUSTUS LOI
NELOU FS: Can you tell us a bit about Nelou? R: Nelou.com is an e-commerce platform for independent fashion designers from around the world. If you’re looking for new trends from around the world, Nelou is the place for you to go to. When you look for newcomer musicians, you
do to YouTube, and when you look for new designers and trends, you come to Nelou. We started one year ago with 60 designers from three countries, and now have over 400 registered designers from around 30 countries.
FS: How did you get the idea for Nelou? R: While at the Grameen Bank in Bangladesh, I got to know the production companies for garments, which was when I realised that only the really big fashion houses produce in those countries.
exposure. So, Nelou was created.
On the other hand, green, fair trade, ethical, sustainable fashion is in growing demand. People know about the working conditions in Bangladesh and China and are increasingly concerned about it. Hence, Nelou is a ‘fair However, the small designers are too small to alternative.’ produce in quantities that would allow them to work with garment companies in those But not only that, people can now buy from countries. around the world and really express their After some serious research into the topic, I personal style. Whereas before, you could only realised that those independent designers buy what was available in your city, now you have not even a proper distribution channel have the freedom to choose from designers that would allow them to get worldwide around the world.
INTERVIEW
FS: What do you think about fashion on the Web? R: I think the Internet democratises fashion. What I mean by that is, that it is now the consumers who decide what they want. Anyone can have an opinion nowadays and find a way of sharing it. Hence, independent labels also get a chance of being recognised. There is still room for improvement, but we are in the process of seeing big changes. People are less brand-conscious but do care more about quality, design and sustainability. The Internet is the engine behind all those changes that we are experiencing right now. FS: How do you find the brands on Nelou? R: At the beginning, we went around and talked to the designers, and motivated them to join our platform. These days, we receive new applications daily, so we are very excited to see who is going to apply to us from Asia. FS: What are some of your best experiences since starting Nelou? R: Oh, we have so many. We grew from 60 designers to over 400 in one year. We were partners of the Vienna Fashion Week, the Lake’s Fashion Days, the Ramazzotti Runway Award, and many more.All this happened in one year.
INTERVIEW
It is really exciting to see our designers grow. Also, consumers are becoming increasingly We just really love what we do. aware of ecological and sustainability questions that are become more and more important in FS: What do you think about German this day and age. We have to change our way fashion? European fashion? of consuming. R: Europe is very diverse, hence the designers and the fashion is different wherever you go. I It is not possible for a dress to cost 20â‚Ź if you love that a lot about Europe. Because Europe want everyone in the production chain to have is so diverse it is the hub of many new trend a nice life. 20â‚Ź just does not represent the inventions. price of a good quality and fair trade piece of clothing. Most big, mass brands come to Europe to have a look at independent designers, to get FS: How would you describe your personal inspired and then copy their ideas. Hence, if style? you want true innovation, buy on Nelou. R: Comfortable and I need to be able to mix everything with everything.
Click to view video FS: What are some of your favourite brands out there? R: We have some amazing brands on Nelou. CaroCora has an amazing summer collection. GROME as well. Ina Kent has beautiful handbags. There are so many.
R: We won a prize to move to San Francisco, so this is in April. Exciting times ahead of us. We hope that all you Asian designers join us and that you bloggers and magazines love Nelou and write about us, so that nelou becomes well-known in Asia too.
FS: Any upcoming plans for Nelou that you can share with us? For more info, go to nelou.com
INTERVIEW
JAMES BENT
Writer ONG YIN QIN
Singapore’s answer to The Satorialist, James Bent from La Mode Outré, is Singapore’s top street style blog. Currently in Taipei to snapped their best dressed, we had a short chat with James Bent on how he started La Mode Outré and his advice for aspiring street style photographers out there.
graphs from a book of people (which turned out to be The Sartorialist book) to base characters on for short stories. Then, one day my partner said, “Why don’t you take your own photos?” So, I did. But it started out really as a blog to show the photos of people I took, on which I based stories that I used to post as well.
FS: Can you tell us more about your background and what inspired you to start a Then, it just became very apparent that street street style blog? style photography was very popular, so I J: It was totally unintended – I used photo- dropped off the writing and I’ve gone from
there with the photography. FS: Have you always loved photography? J: It’s funny since I always thought how much I’d love to be a photographer. But, it’s one of those things that you think, “Oh, I can’t,” or “It can never be me.”
I don’t really know enough to give a first-hand answer. But, if you look at the cities right now that are at the forefront and in the press – it’s still obviously London, New York, Paris and Milan with not many other places even close.
I think I’ve always had an appreciation for good photographs since my father and grandfather on my mother’s side were both really into photography as part of their daily lives. So, the influence or understanding has been there.
Having said that, I think the Blueprint event is good on paper. Still, until you start seeing Singapore regularly – almost daily – on and in international press being labelled ‘a fashion capital or leader’, then it’s really hard to say it’s one of the ‘the most fashionable cities’. FS: How do you go about approaching people to take the photos?
I’ve come to love how anyone can take photographs, and if you start to learn about the camera, composition, the subjects; if you stick at it, and try and craft it, then you’ll be a photographer.
J: It’s simple – go up and ask! I mean, there’s the bit before where I’ve waited and then I see someone, then I’ve got to figure out a spot. But otherwise, really, it’s just, go up and ask.
Plus it’s so instant! It’s like, you find your subject, background, light and composition, wait for the exact right moment when all things are balanced, press the shutter and it’s done, end of story. It’s great. FS: What do you think about Singapore being one of the most fashionable cities? In your opinion, are we there yet? J: I’m certainly not an authority on designating fashionable cities. And while I’m increasingly becoming attracted to fashion from a technical perspective (cut, colour, line, shape, form, etc),
of building up fashion weeks, they seem to be more public shows of foreign labels, rather than driving press and buyers to focus on fashion from that part of the world.
And it’s not like a clipboard, official-type thing, like, “Excuse me, but I am photographing for this site and today I am focusing on coats and you have a nice coat. So, do you have five minutes for me to take a photograph of you in your coat and then to fill out a questionnaire.” With Singapore, there are two big things that I do consider: first, of course the weather it’s just incredibly difficult to adopt fashion in it’s entirety in that environment; but secondly, even though Singapore is doing a great job
FS: You’ve been to many cities to take street style photos. Which is your favourite and why? J: I love different cities for different reasons. But Tokyo for sure, because it’s so well-developed, so mature, so cutting edge.
It’s just a casual “Excuse me, I like your style. I I think Seoul and maybe Shanghai can become keep a street style site: can I take your photo. strong contenders for the next Asian fashion capitals – if you look at how many people are It’ll only take 20 seconds, cool?” interested and involved, and playing around I think I come across as quite fluid and driving with style and fashion. the moment as one continuous thing.
But from a ‘go there and see it’ perspective, Tokyo is just head and shoulders about the rest. It’s great too since that whole clichéd ‘wacky’ Tokyo style represents about one percent of what’s really there. I almost love that not many other people (photographers) are interested in the more fashionable and real stylish looks because, for some reason, people just think of the cliché. So, it’s like it’s mine to play around with for a bit and I can’t wait to get back there. FS: What is the best thing about being a street style photographer? J: Lots of things! It’s fun, I get to travel, I get to meet lots of people. In a lot of cities, people love it and take it as a compliment, and it’s a really fast turnover of good things. It suits me very well. FS: Can you tell us more about your personal style? J: It’s relatively straightforward – I have a simple travelling wardrobe of a few pairs of shoes, a few pairs of pants, a few good shirts, a few good sweaters and a few good coats. I tend to cycle through my wardrobe. Like, I keep an item for a while, get bored of it and replace it.
J: I wouldn’t say look up to, but more, which do I learn from and which do I enjoy. I still think The Sartorialist has done a great job of remaining very cutting edge and taking photographs that are just unlike anyone else’s to some extent.
FS: Do you have any advice for aspiring street style bloggers? J: I think, “Don’t be afraid to take a bad photo, the wrong photo, the wrong style, etc,” because you learn from everything. Every photograph is a chance to learn.
Otherwise, I like Soren Jepsen’s The Locals, and I do flick to Stylites in Beijing just because I’m trying to figure out how it’s possible to do China.
Just like style and fashion – it’s almost like you learn by making mistakes, by refining, by For more info, go to lamodeoutre.com tuning and turning it out again to make it very sharp.
And I look back to the older fashion photographers who have some work set on the street, such as Albert Watson and Helmut Newton – I think it’s great to learn from fashion photographers and try and push this is all further away from ‘street snaps’. I have to say that I hate that term.
And otherwise, I think you have to be very confident, sincere - and I think it’s best to focus on what you want, rather than trying to take photographs that you think people want.
FS: Where are you currently shooting your street style photos, and where will you be heading to next? J: I’m in Taipei, then off to Seoul in Korea, then Tokyo. Then, I hope to be able to visit Seoul Fashion Week toward the end of the year, go to Shanghai, Hong Kong and who knows where else – there are lots of places in Asia of course!
It’s potentially the start of a long trip and FS: Which street style bloggers do you look hopefully many, many photographs. up to?
I think that’s what fashion magazines try and do with street style – dictate it depending on what they think the audience wants, which is why nobody really looks at fashion magazine street style the same way they look at the independent photographers and bloggers. Again, without being an absolute authority, it feels like fashion magazines are in a corner because they seem dictated to by very powerful advertisers who they’re scared to lose, as well as established reader bases that expect them to be one thing and nothing else. So, as a blogger, don’t get tied down too early – like with advertisers or commercial
jobs – enjoy the freedom of being able to do whatever you want. I have zero intention of doing anything else, which is why on a commercial basis I am a total failure! But then, I’m not in it for the money. It’s for the kicks!
INTERVIEW
Writer ONG YIN QIN
WOTTONCOOL
Meet Jo and Sarah, the dynamic duo behind Wottoncool.com. Wottoncool was born in 2008 when the girls wanted a creative outlet to express themselves and to start something that would see them staging their own fashion show in a few years’ time.
FS: What are your thoughts on the blogging scene in Singapore? What do you think can be improved? J & S: Since we started nearly four years ago, the blogging scene has changed. When we started writing about fashion, we had to purchase our own tickets for Fashion Week.
We had a short chat with the both of them on With the success of overseas blogs such as their thoughts about the Singaporean blogging Style Bubble, Style Salvage, Facehunter, The scene and what items they can’t live without. Satorialist, Bryanboy, Fashion Toast and LibertyLondonGirl, blogging has taken on a more FS: Can you tell us more about your glamorous connotation. (I think we’re also background and what inspired you to start guilty of recounting our experiences with more fashion blogging? flare and spin, sometimes. ) J & S: We were classmates for eight years (Primary 5 through to Junior College), studying FS: Do you think blogging will overtake tradiart for most of that duration. After which, we tional media? both went to business school and wanted a J & S: Blogs are different from traditional creative outlet to be ourselves, have fun and media since they offer the writer’s individual not take ourselves too seriously. opinion on fashion trends and personal style. Traditional media plays a much larger role in After bouncing a few ideas and emails back determining key trends each season. and forth, Wottoncool was born. That being said, we think traditional media will FS: Since Wottoncool is helmed by two girls, adopt some non-traditional forms of commuhow do you divide up the blogging workload? nication. Already, we see traditional media J & S: We write about what we love, find moving onto the digital platform as well. interesting and stumble across. When either of us is busy, the other will cover. There’s no FS: Tell us more about your personal style. formal division of labour. J & S: Sarah prefers sportswear, clean
lines and tailored cuts. She also prefers cool They both have such bold personal style. and earthy colours such as blue, green, grey, brown and black. FS: With various press features, what are your most memorable experiences since the Jo loves accessories and she’s also a lot more start of your blogging adventure? daring with her styling choices. J & S: Key events include live blogging from the Burberry store at Ion Orchard in 2009; we FS: Who are some of the bloggers you look met Christopher Bailey and photoboothed with up to? Liu Wen; attending the Louis Vuitton Island J & S: Susie Bubble from Style Bubble and Maison after-party last year; we got to watch Diana Rikasari (dianarikasari.blogspot.com). Estelle perform live.
But, more importantly, we are very thankful FS: Who are your favourite designers? for the wonderful people we’ve met who have J & S: Abyzz by Desmond Yang, Mae Pang, since become our friends. Sundays, Nicholas, Marilyn Tan, Ling Wu, Jose Duran, Timo Weiland, Stella McCartney, FS: Which item of clothing can you never live Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang. without? S: A blazer. It makes a plain-tank-top-and- FS: Lastly, do you girls have any advice for jeans combo look sharper. aspiring fashion bloggers? J: Jeans, because when I’m out of things to J & S: Write about what you love and have fun. wear, I always wear that. For more info, go to wottoncool.com
INTERVIEW
Writer ONG YIN QIN
CLIFFORD With no formal training in photography, Clifford Loh proves that anyone can be great in photography, as long as they put in enough hard work. Inspired by his love of creating stories through photographs, Clifford Loh’s editorials has been featured in Alexis, Cosmopolitan, NUYOU, Harper’s Bazaar Singapore, Go Girl! Indonesia, Oxygen Magazine, Papercut Magazine and Vogue.it. In this interview, Clifford dishes out advice for aspiring photographers and tells us about his latest projects. FS: What inspired you to take up fashion photography? C: I always found the human form fascinating and loved the idea of having total control over creating a character or story by photographing them in various clothes and styling in different environments.
FS: Can you tell us a little background about yourself? C: I graduated from junior college two years ago. I guess my art knowledge and background from high school were the building blocks of my career now. That I was fine art trained really helps when it comes to imagining a concept and defining a personal taste.
people, college is an integral part of their growing process and they want it to be part of that process. There are others who feel they learn better on their own.
Ultimately, I feel that it really boils down to how strong your passion is and how committed you are at honing your craft because these are skills that can also be learnt out of the FS: Do you think awards are necessary for a academic boundary. photographer? Is it important to go to a school Same goes for awards: they are definitely a to learn photography? C: I personally have never been formally good form of recognition for a photographer’s trained in a photography school. For some career. Again, I would never assume I know if
The women I represent are beautiful people who do not try too hard. They’re not afraid to FS: What are your most memorable experi- have a bit of fun at times and are always in total control. They know what they want. ences? C: Getting to travel abroad for work is always going to be a memorable and rewarding FS: Do you have any advice for aspiring fashion photographers? experience for any photographer. C: Develop a real passion for what you do FS: Can you tell us more about your personal and make the best out of whatever you have. style? C: I would describe my photography aesthetic Clifford Loh’s Extreme Beauty features various as a contemporary and modern narrative. I’m artists and runs from 30 March to 13 April constantly trying to sell and project my ideal of 2012 at Vue Priveé, 63 Spottiswoode Park Road. vueprivee.com perfection and beauty in the human form. that’s important for anybody else.
PHOTO ESSAY DARREN LEE Shentonista is street style blog that chronicles people, faces, and style around and about Shenton Way, and other business districts in Singapore. Shentonista is created and curated by UNIFORM. For more photos, visit shentonista.sg
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FEATURE
Writer FAZ ABDUL GAFFA
IT TAKES TWO: COLLABORATIONS IN FASHION It happens so often that it’s barely newsworthy anymore. From Versace, Marni and Lanvin to Mary Katrantzou, Comme des Garcons, Matthew Williamson, and Missoni - there is hardly a designer left that has yet to collaborate with a fast fashion retailer. Yet, at the launch of every collaboration, hundreds and thousands of fashionistas brave various weather elements the world over and flock the shops.
Fashion collaborations extend to beyond the fashion world – musicians, artists and bloggers have made headlines as well. Kylie Minogue and Madonna have done collaborations with H&M, artist Takashi Murakami with Louis Vuitton, amongst others. Top bloggers such as Elin Kling, Gala Darling and Chiara Ferragni have also done collaborations with various fashion brands.
LUXURY X FAST FASHION It’s unsurprising that the luxury fashion meets fast fashion business model is so successful. The designer gets a cut of the profit and an increased exposure as well as a mass-market appeal, the retailer gets media attention and sales, and the consumer gets high-end styles at affordable prices. It’s quite literally, a win-win-win situation.
Hardly a season passes without the announcement of a new designer at Target or H&M. And the more ubiquitous these collaborations become, the more they are celebrated as the post-recessional triumph of accessible style over the irrelevant extravagance of luxury goods. The realm of fashion is ever changing and now, the most celebrated in fashion aren’t those decked top-to-toe in couture, but those who manage to effortlessly mix the best of both high fashion and high street. Frugal is the new
black: Kate Middleton wears $100 dresses from Zara. Michelle Obama is a devotee of J Crew. Designer-fast fashion collaborations fit into this picture perfectly: they represent a more democratised world of fashion that prizes creativity over exclusivity. In the immediate wake of the recession, many news sources gleefully speculated that the era of overpriced luxury brands was over. At the time, the idea of spending thousands of dollars on designer clothing was almost offensive.
coming from. I just did a collaboration with Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons in Tokyo for Fashion’s Night Out and that was a huge success.” On the other side of the spectrum, co-designer of Dolce & Gabbana, Domenico Dolce told WWD in an interview, “Recently, it’s all ‘trusciume’ [in Sicilian, cheap, trashy] — there’s no quality, these fast-fashion companies churning out looks. People thought it was cool, but it’s cheap. You can’t expect quality at 20 euros [USD27]. It’s like good codfish at 5 euros [USD6.70] — how can it be?”
BEYOND FASHION X FASHION
WHAT THE DESIGNERS SAY
really have to want to do and have the time to do it, but it really comes down to the people. Of course, the big wigs of fashion and the I have done projects with Brooks Brothers designers have got a lot to say about collabo- before because they are an amazing group of people – the collection I do for Moncler is the rations. same. I respect what they are as brands and Thom Browne, who has collaborated with so it really depends on that.” Brooks Brothers and Moncler for years, was asked if he would do a collaboration with a fast “I think that is the only real way collaborations fashion retailer. He said, “You know, I would work, when the two parties understand each never say never, but with those sort of things I other and understand where each person is
Collaborations, as mentioned before, extend to beyond just fashion houses. One of the most coveted and successful collaborations in history was one by luxury fashion giant Louis Vuitton and Japanese artist, Takashi Murakami. In an article in the New York Times, it is said that the collaboration “has generated sales estimated to be in the hundreds of millions, by far the most successful such venture in the label’s history.” “Vuitton has a long tradition of these collaborations, of relationships with artists, going back to the Impressionists,” Yves Carcelle, the
chairman of Louis Vuitton, said in an interview. Nothing the company ever did hit the jackpot like Mr. Murakami’s cherry-ornamented and ‘Multico’ bags, which came about, as Mr. Carcelle explained, after 9/11, when the Louis Vuitton designer, Marc Jacobs, suggested to his corporate bosses that it was no good to mourn forever: fashion had a responsibility to help people past their grief. “Marc said,” Mr. Carcelle recalled, “‘If I work with Takashi, and we do something colourful, I think it will help make New York strong again.’” While one would say it was superfluous to assume such big responsibility over postterrorism New York, the collaboration has received, time and time again, rhapsodic reviews from the likes of Vogue and Women’s Wear Daily, and during the height of its popularity, Time magazine reported that “demand continues to humiliate supply, with shipments selling out before they hit showroom floors. Waiting lists in stores from San Francisco to Berlin numbered in the thousands”. And then, there are also collaborations with TV shows – or their designers, rather. Banana Republic is doing an encore of their Mad Men collection with Janie Bryant, the show’s Emmy Award-winning costume designer, for Spring.
There are 40 pieces of apparel and jewellery that embody, in this case, the panache of the mid to late ‘60s. “It’s been a fantastic experience working with Janie again on this new Spring capsule,” says Simon Kneen, creative director of Banana Republic. “We continually find fresh ways to reimagine stylish work wear for our customers. Spring delivers a whole new palette and gave us an excuse to draw from different scenes and wardrobe from the show as inspiration.”
SPECIALS
Writers DOROTHY TAN & ONG YIN QIN
PARCO NEXT NEXT Time flies when you are having fun. Now in its third year, PARCO next NEXT, the fashion design incubator project, has just unveiled its latest intake of young designers. The future of Singapore’s home-grown fashion scene looks brighter than ever.
creatives, each with his own distinctive style. From stark urban minimalism to frontierpushing androgyny and quirky futurism, this is the fashion equivalent of a delightful buffet of avant-garde cuisine.
If you have a taste for the timeless and wearable, there are also plenty of elegant work Providing fresh fashion design talents with options and well-constructed street wear to support and mentorship, the programme has keep you happy. launched 37 labels to date, some of which, such as max.tan and MAE PANG, have gone Help to put Singapore on the fashion map by on to become laudable success stories. giving these new kids on the block some love! It was a tough call, but here are our top three As always, the 2012 batch of Parco next NEXT picks. designers are a diverse and eclectic bunch of
MASH-UP
techniques to bring them back to their former glory.
If you see fashion as a game of instant gratification and the eternal pursuit of the new, then Using city-friendly materials such as denim MASH-UP will give you a refreshingly different and jersey, the three founders’ (Shaf, Daniela and Nat) designs are colourful, often tongueperspective. on-cheek and definitely unconventional. Dedicated to bringing new meaning to old things (both physically and metaphorically), These are clothes for those of us who do not this fun-loving local label respects the heritage take ourselves, or fashion, too seriously. Girls of old garments and uses do-it-yourself (and boys) just wanna have fun, right?
SPECIALS MILS One of the great things about PARCO next NEXT is how there are always a few talented menswear designers in the mix; after all, men are often as fashion-conscious as women in these progressive days.
This time around, there is Sunny Lim, the designer behind Mils, a luxury menswear label targeted at creative and free-spirited men. Each piece, even the T-shirts, appears well thought out and constructed. Although Lim focuses on the staples in a man’s wardrobe, he has updated them with bold details such as pleating, draping and embellishments that are not common in menswear. His clothes prove that fashion does not mean sacrificing masculinity for style.
QUAINTHOOD The classic white shirt is a key inspiration for Joy Ng’s first collection for QUAINTHOOD. A
contemporary women’s label that treads the line between cool edginess and chic sensibilities, it stands out from the competition with its sharp tailoring and flattering cuts. Although the designs are certainly pretty enough, there is a subtle but interesting dark undertone to these clothes. Aiming to express not only fashion, but a lifestyle and an attitude, these pieces are made for the cool city girl who expresses herself through the clothes she chooses to wear.
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FS: Tell us about yourself. R: I’m originally from Hong Kong but moved to Singapore in 1996. I’ve always been interested in fashion from a young age and, over the years, have seized every opportunity to travel around the world in order to better understand the fashion scene at large.
FS: What is your label about? R: We have everything from smart casual to formal, so our creations are wearable for any occasion. Our focus is on vintage glamour for men - a collection of outfits from the ‘60s and ‘70s that we have reworked in our own style for the 21st century man.
I also have an existing company, FP + Design Communications, that has worked with That CD Shop since 2004 for their in-house brand, High Society. The work I’ve done with them has given me lots of insights into the retail scene, including management, branding, packaging and operation.
2HB RICK HUNG, 38
FS: Tell us about your label. R: The idea for the name 2HB came about when I was sketching out a design using a 2HB pencil - the ‘middle ground’ in pencil grading. Extending this idea into my label, I hope to court lovers of practical fashion who embrace wearability, but without any compromise on style. Look out for a collection of smart threads that span everyday wear to formal wear, always with a dash of attitude to reflect the wearer’s personality.
and cuts designed for the Asian build. I have added more details on the cutting and also plan to use bright, eye-catching colours that will appeal to men who want a splash of adventure in their wardrobe. FS: Favourite designers? R: There isn’t a particular designer whom I admire. Having said that, I do admire ItalianAmerican film director, actor and musician, Vincent Gallo. His diverse profile and dress style inspires me. FS: What’s your must-have item? R: A blazer with big checks, a two-toned Oxford long-sleeved shirt and vintage overalls with an American feel. That’s three musthaves!
FS: What is the inspiration behind your collection? R: This collection was inspired by the late ‘70s style of American film director and actor, Woody Allen. I want to bring back the vibe of the ‘70s and add new elements to it. For this collection, I have focused on Oxford cloth. By using this classic fabric, I want to make vintage wear trendy again, with fitting
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FS: Tell us about yourself. G: I originally completed my diploma (at Nanyang Polytechnic) in nursing because I wanted something different from the rest of the courses, but then made the switch to Mass Communications at SIM-RMIT where I graduated in January 2012. Jamie graduated with a degree in Commerce from the University of Melbourne but has always been interested in design. Right after graduation, Jamie took up a 3-monthlong graphic design course at Melbourne’s Shillington College and has since continued to pursue it as a career. We started a web store selling apparel even before Jamie moved back to Singapore. Although the physical distance proved to be difficult for conducting a business, our enthusiasm kept us going.
20:TWOTHREE GENEVIEVE GOH, 23 & JAMIE GOH, 24
This collaboration eventually led to a small underground label that was designed purely from rough sketches on paper. When Jamie finally moved back in 2011, we decided to take our love for fashion more seriously and this has led to us now being a part of PARCO next NEXT.
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FS: What is the inspiration behind your collection? FS: Tell us about your label. G & J: The name 20:TWOTHREE was G & J: Clarity In Blindness (SS12 RTW) coined to reflect our respective ages (in 2011) was inspired by the visually impaired and the design inspiration stemmed from a pair of as a way of reminding ourselves of when we octagon-shaped glasses. first started. The combination of numerals and letters is meant to portray the label’s versatility. The repeated layering and soft draping of the pieces in this collection break shape and form. We have no formal fashion training and our They also represent visual obstruction and design process is therefore more free-spirited obscurity. - we are not constrained by boundaries. We want to create an experimental trend among The octagon is a fairly atypical structure with eight sides and its shape is incorporated more Singaporeans throughout this collection. FS: What is your label about? G & J: Since neither of us has any formal fashion schooling, we design in the absence of taught rules, coming up with our own interpretations and definitions. What results are creations that have basic yet timeless frames, and pieces that play around with geometry and draping. 20:TWOTHREE transcends gender and body proportions, and show that one’s fashion style does not need to conform to the expectations of our society.
Through these pieces, we want to show that even in darkness, light exists. FS: Favourite designers? G & J: We like Rick Owens and Kunihiko Morinaga (Anrealage). They are very different designers but their individual passions in creating fashion really stand out for us. FS: What’s your must-have item? G: An oversized white or black tee. And if I may add, tons of chunky jewellery. J: Not sure about a must-have, but I do have a little black dress I always rely on, whether to wear on its own or with some prints.
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me and was willing to buy me Armani shirts and jeans. While my perception of fashion eventually changed - it is more important to be comfortable while looking good - I still believe that there is a strong correlation between price and quality.
FOREWORD EVELYN NG, 26 & PEARLY WEE, 29 FS: Tell us about yourself. E: As a child, I remember dolling myself up in my mother’s clothes and having our own ‘fashion shows’ at home with my younger sister. As a teenager, I guess I wasn’t very fashionable because I couldn’t afford to buy a lot of clothes.
Temasek Polytechnic but then transferred to Apparel Design after a year. Three years later in 2009, I enrolled in Fashion Merchandising and Marketing at the Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts (NAFA).
P: I was actually introduced to Armani by my schoolmates in primary school. We were Regardless, I immersed myself in reading young and impressionable, and because fashion sites, blogs and magazines and later stars like David Beckham endorsed Armani, it decided to formally pursue my interest. seemed very cool to us. I started out studying engineering at I was very fortunate that my family doted on
FS: Tell us about your label. E & P: We met in 2003 - we were engineering course-mates at Temasek Polytechnic and became best friends. We both shared a love for fashion and, at some point in 2007, we began selling some of our handmade accessories and apparel at a flea market.
FS: What is your label about? E & P: Foreword carries contemporary, ready-to-wear women’s apparel and accessories.
For most of the designs, Foreword goes for We made a reasonable profit and we also had fabrics that are soft and light in order to obtain a substantial number of orders and enquiries a gentle look that accentuates a women’s coming in from our blogshop. femininity while throwing in an unexpected edge by including unique construction in the When Pearly graduated and started her first details. full-time job, and I enrolled at NAFA, we had to put our little flea market and blogshop We have designed a range of fuss-free, business on hold. pragmatic and versatile wear that is suitable for both work and leisure, suiting today’s modern I heard about the PARCO next NEXT fashion urban woman. incubator project in school and we both felt that it was the perfect opportunity to revive Based on loose, relaxed silhouettes, the the business and bring it to the next level by designs offer enhanced mobility for active becoming a successful label in Singapore and women on the go while maintaining comfort Asia.
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He once said, “Anyone can get all dolled up and glamorous, but it is how people dress on their ‘off days’ that is most inspiring, when a woman’s true beauty and style are bestowed.”
E: The shirt is a definite classic. But it can also come in many different styles to make it look trendy and not dated, or like a man’s piece of clothing. Find one that accentuates your best attributes and minimizes trouble spots.
Those words truly inspired me. Given that our pieces are for leisure lifestyle wear and suitable for both work and play, I hope that our clothes will make women look and feel beautiful and confident even on their ‘off days’. FS: What’s your must-have item? throughout the day. Foreword wants to empower individuals with enigmatic and distinctive pieces that inspire confidence. FS: What is the inspiration behind your collection? E & P: Our collection was inspired by the story of Robin Hood, based on the key character Robin himself and other characters such as Little John and Marian. In addition to drawing inspiration from these characters’ personalities and costumes, we also take into account the story’s environment. Our colours, such as the signature Lincoln green of Robin’s tunic, are therefore derived from the palette of the forest, since most of his adventures take place in the woods.
FS: Favourite designers? E: I really admire Michael Kors for his signature design style, which is luxuriously casual and simply elegant. Kors embodies the past, present, and future of American sportswear. He has perfected a formula for casual elegance that usually combines simplicity, ease and luxury. Alexander Wang is another designer I admire. I love how he turns the basics upside down and brings casual chic to a new level of sophistication.
Every woman should also have a knee-length skirt that fits perfectly and gives her a slim appearance. The particular style is up to what you deem looks good on your body. It can be a pencil skirt or an A-line skirt. For a timeless piece, look for one that is made of a lightweight material.
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FS: Tell us about yourself. L: My interest in design began in primary school when I began to watch Japanese anime films such sd Sailormoon and Cardcaptor Sakura. I was fascinated by the magical transformations of the characters and would routinely sketch the characters, change their outfits and the colours, and add more embellishments and fabric details. My interest in fashion heightened when I watched the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in 2005 for the first time. All the glamour, ribbons, glitter, and feathers had me enraptured.
LION EARL LIONEL LOW, 24 & HARIZ LIM YIHAO, 24
ously. LION EARL is a whimsical pun on both our names (LIONel and HARiz), as well as the two dominant design themes, fashION and ARchitecture. FS: What is your label about? H & L: LION EARL challenges the boundaries of both fashion and the arts. The designs draw from both nature and the urban jungle, and are inspired by various art disciplines, including painting and architecture.
These influences are subtly reflected in the design of each piece. Our designs can be simple – nothing out of this world – but there is a subtle quality that changes the way you perceive the piece of clothing, such as how I eventually chose to study fashion and gradu- you wear it, when you wear it, or why you wear ated from LASALLE College of the Arts with a it. Bachelor’s Degree in Fashion Design in 2009. The collection exudes varying styles and H: I liked fashion but had never fancied myself characters from piece to piece, from flowing a fashion designer until I was doing National organic numbers, to more structured, rigid Service (NS) and met Lionel. We got along numbers. well because of our shared interest in design and the arts. After we completed NS, Lionel FS: What is the inspiration behind your approached me to collaborate as a partner for collection? PARCO next NEXT. H & L: The current collection tells the story of a lady who lives in a forest but is forced to FS: Tell us about your label. move to urban civilisation as nature is graduH & L: The name came about spontane- ally replaced by the concrete jungle. As her
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environment changes, her lifestyle and fashion and brought it to a whole new level, he was follow suit. someone who changed perceptions about time and the meaning of objects. Taking cues from urban geometry and architecture, her clothes transition from a raw, H: Rem Koolhaas, the architect, and the organic state, to a more structured one. This Mulleavy sisters behind Rodarte. They reprecollection is inspired by our respective design sent people who are distinctly different and disciplines, fashion and architecture, and our experimental in the things they do. desire to marry the two. FS: What’s your must-have item? FS: Favourite designers? H & L: Drop-crotch pants and a good pair of L: The late Alexander McQueen. McQueen skinny tailored pants. was not only someone who challenged fashion
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FS: Tell us about yourself. S: I had initially wanted to become a graphic designer, but at LASALLE College of the Arts, our foundation year required us to try out different courses in each faculty, and that got me thinking about fashion design. Initially, I had thought fashion design would be a challenge, but I had a wonderful lecturer named Tang Wai Wah. She had amazing energy and reminded me of Vivienne Westwood. She had coloured hair and was always encouraging us to rip things apart and put them back together again. She would talk about sex and art, and that really awakened my creativity. It got my attention. She was really inspiring as an educator and mentor. She made it really fun for me, and was the integral reason that I made the change from graphic design to fashion.
MILS SUNNY LIM, 24
FS: Tell us about your label. S: I started a menswear label because of my innate fascination with it, but also because I think that men in Singapore can really use more options in terms of style. Mils is almost eponymous. It is an anagram of my name. I enjoy working with fabrics and
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textiles, and enjoy spotting anomalies and skirt-pants, asymmetrical shirt-front plackets dilemmas in social constructs. I think refer- and asymmetrical shirt hems. encing social constructs makes fashion design a lot more interesting. FS: What is your label about? S: Mils is a luxury menswear label for the artistic, free-spirited man. By reinventing the shirt and other staples in a man’s wardrobe, Mils provides more creative options for men to be more adventurous and audacious in the way they dress. FS: Favourite designers? FS: What is the inspiration behind your S: The Wim Wenders documentary Yohji collection? Yamamoto: Notebook of Cities and Clothes S: My current collection addresses the moved me to tears the first time I watched it. perceptions that the general public have of sexual minority groups. The film delves into why Yamamoto chose to make clothes, the commercialism of I focused on the Hijras of India and juxtaposed the fashion industry and how he liked to be the idea of feminine silhouettes of the tradi- referred to as a clothes crafter and not a tional Indian sari, as well as Chinese Eunuchs designer. and the details of the ancient clothing that they wore during the Qing Dynasty. I was struggling between the concepts of fashion as commerce and fashion for fashion’s I used exposed hand stitches, oversized sake when I watched that documentary, and sleeves and pockets, as well as dismantled it really struck a chord and touched my heart. clothes from the post war, depression era. I also deconstructed details from the images of Yamamoto’s love for vintage photographs is Dorothea Lange. You can expect to see half also something I can relate to. At the end of
the day, making clothes makes me happy. has managed to capture the market and even As long as the clothes I make can make my has a huge company now. I think her husband is really business savvy and allowed Comme customers happy, nothing else matters. des Garçons to expand to where it is now. Martin Margiela: for the concept behind each design he creates. I aspire to have the success Rei also has a very clear understanding of her he had when he was toying with the linguistic own identity and I think the balance between concept of deconstruction (of course, I’d like the two is the key to her success. to expand on some theories myself) and also FS: What’s your must-have item? marketing his brand invisibly. S: Many crisp white shirts, since one is never Rei Kawakubo: Despite her eccentricity, she enough.
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RÊVASSEUR GILDA SU, 28
FS: Tell us about yourself. G: I’ve always enjoyed doodling and making three-dimensional paper crafts. When I was about 14, I got into the whole do-it-yourself scene, cutting up T-shirts and hand-sewing them back together. I was also adding studs everywhere and sewing little pouches on. I thought I was so nifty then but looking back at those items - they look terrible. Thank goodness I went and got educated! I graduated with a specialised diploma in dressmaking from Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, Japan.
Following that, I transferred my credits and completed university at Parsons the New School of Design in New York with a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Fashion Design. FS: Tell us about your label. G: The idea for RÊVASSEUR started in Tokyo, Japan in 2005. RÊVASSEUR means ‘daydreamer’ in French. I’d decided many years ago that if I had a label I’d call it ‘daydreamer’, because I do a lot of daydreaming, which is also where half my ideas come from.
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FS: What is your label about? G: RÊVASSEUR is a mix of whimsical and avant garde designs. Strong silhouettes, a play on textures and prints, and some down-right outrageous over-the-top novelties, result in unique garments that I hope bring smiles to the faces of those who wear them. RÊVASSEUR aims to put the fun back into fashion by encouraging its wearers to experiment and to make a statement with a personal style that is uniquely theirs. FS: What is the inspiration behind your collection? G: RÊVASSEUR’s SS12 collection, titled Love and Other Favourite Things, is a playful and light-hearted collection celebrating love, life, and the small random things that make us smile. Expect to see heart motifs popping out from Love and Other Favourite Things will feature shirts and vests, along with some other bits a few inspired ensembles, with hand-drawn prints and appliqué that will be translated into from things I personally love. prêt-a-porter pieces for the everyday girl with I also throw in a personal interpretation of the a little bit of Liesl, Louisa, and Brigitta in their song “My Favourite Things” from The Sound personalities. Maria would surely approve! of Music to make this collection one that promises to bring a cheeky grin to the faces of After all, when you simply remember your favourite things, you’ll no longer feel so bad. those who wear it.
costumes to make them simply magical. FS: Favourite designers? G: The designers I like are essentially categoAlso, Elsa Schiaparelli, Eri Tsugi and Bernhard rised into broad terms. Willhelm for their very wearable and yet Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe from extremely quirky clothing that makes me Comme des Garcons for their mastery in smile: they constantly remind me that fashion pattern manipulation and the avant garde: they is meant to be fun. abandon all the regular rules of fashion and I FS: What’s your must-have item? would like to get inside their heads. G: Dropped-crotch pants, fisherman pants, Christian Lacroix and John Galliano for their hats, hats, hats and more hats! And my drama and attention to detail: I love the couture enormous voodoo boys necklace from FW11. details, volumes, cut, age-old silhouettes and It’s huge but I actually wear it quite often! the way they breathe new life into historical
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SALONI RATHOR SALONI SHRESTHA, 34
FS: Tell us about yourself. S: Saloni Rathor is a ready-to-wear women’s label. I am a self-taught designer and I believe in making creativity a habit. I have therefore trained myself to develop an eye for detail and excellence in workmanship to add a touch of difference to my seemingly simple designs.
bring flavour from different environments while retaining an urban-chic appeal.
FS: Tell us about your label. S: My appetite for fashion persisted in the 10 years I spent in the corporate world as a regional marketing director for a British firm. I designed outfits in my mind and sketched I am a native of the Himalayas, currently whenever I got the chance. I even gave my residing in Singapore, and my aesthetic draws colleagues imaginary fashion makeovers in my from a combination of rich experiences to head.
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In 2010, my mother came to me with the idea of setting up her own fashion label. Since she had no experience in marketing, she wanted my help from a marketing perspective. The idea of Saloni Rathor was born, since she very lovingly wanted to name the label after me.
for a label that represents beauty, power, strong-themed presentations with layers of emotion and culture. complex art, Matthew Williamson for the colourful ethnic hints in his collections and FS: What is the inspiration behind your Kunihiko Morinaga, designer for the label collection? Anrealage, whose work inspired me during S: My experience living in and travelling to PARCO next NEXT’s recent mission trip to different parts of Asia has been a big influence Tokyo. on my current collection, and will continue to inspire my future ones as well. One can draw FS: What’s your must-have item? an endless amount of inspiration from the S: A black chiffon dress with hints of colours exoticism, architecture, culture and nature in to brighten and liven up the look. Asia.
FS: What is your label about? S: Saloni Rathor is for individualistic women who enjoy style without a mass-market experience.
When I conceptualised my own label, I did not want to commit to one look. The modern However, my mother changed her plans and woman should be a multi-faceted being. decided to start a retail store instead. Seeing a fashion label almost ready to be born in my ‘Saloni’ means beautiful. ‘Rathor’ is my name was the deciding factor for me. I left the husband’s family name, and was carried corporate world, took over the entire brand by royalty in India and Pakistan during the and am now beginning my fashion journey. medieval period. The combination is perfect
I love combining these elements to form contemporary wearable looks. In terms of textiles, there are many beautiful options for you to choose from. There are brocades, crêpe de Chine, Banarasi silks, Dhaka, Ikat weave, Nishijin weave, and Chikan work. I have plans to explore the use of all these fabrics in my future collections. FS: Favourite designers? S: I have an endless list of designers whom I love but I have to specifically highlight the elegance and fabrics from the Valentino collections. Others include Alexander McQueen for his
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Wil.LiaM ATELIER WILLIAM CHONG, 26
FS: Tell us about yourself. W: My childhood dream was to be a vet because I liked animals and I never expected to become a designer. Pure curiosity is what drove me into fashion.
I eventually graduated from NAFA with a Diploma in Fashion Design.
FS: Tell us about your label. W: Launched in 2012, Wil.LiaM Atelier is designed for the stylish professional women of When I first applied for a course at the Nanyang modern times. The designs are inspired by the Academy of Fine Arts (NAFA), I could not lines and forms of architecture, which formudecide between graphic or gashion design. I late the structure of the pieces. chose fashion design only because it seemed the more interesting of the two at that time, and Sensitive towards the technical aspect of each my interest in fashion has since been piqued. design, I experiment with creations through
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trial and error, and pay careful attention to the Phoebe Philo for Celine. The collection looks finishing and workmanship of every created simple but small details make every piece that piece. much more unique and elegant. FS: What is your label about? FS: What’s your must-have item? W: My label’s collection focuses on minimalist W: The structural suiting jacket in my new office fashion for the professional woman. collection is a key item I’d recommend for every woman’s wardrobe. It comes in grey and One of my mentors, Thomas Wee, taught black, and goes with virtually everything from me the term ‘effortless’. To be effortless is to dresses to skirts and trousers. make designs look simple, yet have a tinge of sophistication. I try to put small details into I’ve designed this jacket to be both fashionmy simple outfits to set them apart from the able and comfortable regardless of whether creations of other designers. you choose to wear it buttoned up or unbuttoned. FS: What is the inspiration behind your collection? W: My designs are mostly inspired by the works of famous Japanese architect, Hitoshi Abe. Expect a collection of structured silhouettes with a minimalist look. FS: Favourite designers? W: Nicolas Ghesquière is doing a great job for Balenciaga and I like the way he brings modern and futuristic themes into the brand. The details and shapes of his collections change every season and I am always on the lookout for what he has up his sleeves next. I also really admire the SS11 collection by
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WSDM ABEL LIM, 26 & RIANE TOH, 25
FS: Tell us about yourself. R: We were childhood friends growing up but drifted apart. Our paths only crossed again when we both entered design school.
FS: Tell us about your label. A & R: WSDM is pronounced as “WISDOM� and also stands for We Seek DiscernMent. When we decided to set up our own label, we asked ourselves what it was exactly that we I attended LASALLE College of the Arts wanted to achieve, and what we had to offer. while Abel attended Raffles Design Institute. Our common interests in design, fashion We realised that we were constantly searching and ideas about life not only allowed us to for a deeper understanding of the many dream together then, but also form the basis frustrating moments and trying situations we of an even deeper relationship now - we are face in life all the time, and the disposition to married. adopt during these erratic times. We got into fashion because friends and family around us are always turning to us for fashion advice, especially when they are dressing up for events such as weddings. It is almost like creative training dressing them up.
It was then that we realised that our greatest and most valuable asset -- both to have and to grow -- was wisdom: the ability to discern our thoughts and move forward with faith.
We made a conscious choice to live our These opportunities are also hugely satisfying dream instead of just dreaming about it, and when we see people happy after being styled the result was the birth of WSDM. by us. When dressed well, they feel confident and good about themselves. FS: What is your label about? A & R: WSDM is a premium streetwear When we were helping to style men, however, concept label for men and makes its statewe found that the brands we could go to were ment via pieces that are functional, comfortpretty limited. We have always wanted to start able and versatile. Inspired by optimism our own label, so when we chanced upon the and positive thinking, WSDM features selfPARCO next NEXT incubator program, we designed fine graphic prints on fabrics and knew that we had to go for it. thought-provoking slogans and phrases on T-shirts.
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FS: Favourite designers? A & R: Masaaki Homma from Mastermind Japan, Jun Takahashi from Undercover, Takahiro Miyashita from Number Nine and Shinsuke Takizawa from Neighborhood are some of the strretwear designers we admire because they have made it on international runways.
are able to buy portions of the designers’ stories and be influenced by the lifestyle they promote. FS: What’s your must-have item? A & R: Our WSDM classic button-down shirt which boasts a subtle mix of hi-tech fabrication is a must-have.
We are inspired by their ability to translate their It can be paired with almost any other well-cut own personalities and beliefs into their brand bottom to achieve a sleek and chic ensemble images. Through their creations, consumers with minimal effort.
The label’s concept of “wisdom” comes from the shared dreams of its two like-minded designers, who share a common love for fashion, the creative arts and design.
In contrast, the lamp dims when we are immersed in misery and we want to challenge everyone to find the light within themselves. The collection’s palette reflects that of a galaxy, where glimmering lights shine distinctly against FS: What is the inspiration behind your a sombre skyscape. collection? A & R: For the debut collection of WSDM Look out for graphically-shaped details, highS/S 12, LET THERE BE LIGHT, we delved into tech synthetics placed against compact matte the juxtaposition of light against darkness. surfaces, as well as glossy and lightweight finishes in our range of shirts, tees, jackets and No one lights a lamp and puts it in a place low-crotch bottoms. where it will be hidden. Instead he puts it on its stand, so that everyone may come and see the “The night is nearly over, the day is almost light. Our eyes are like the lamp of our being, here, so let us put aside the deeds of darkness illuminated when we are filled with hope. and put on the armor of light.”
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The fashion set aren’t known for being warm biography, and even Wintour comes across as and cuddly. I’m not sure when ‘bi-atch’ sympathetic. became the new black, but it hasn’t seemed to have gone out of style. In the book, author Oppenheimer offers a few anecdotes from Wintour’s rise. When she Go to a few launch events even today, joined Vogue in New York as the magazine’s over two decades since the cancellation of first creative director, the painfully shy Wintour Dynasty, and everyone seems to be playing spent many lunches crying by the window in Alexis Carrington sans (well, sometimes) big her office. hair and shoulder pads. With that, let me put on my pop psychologist Or is it the pre-dominance of hard-nosed hat for a few paragraphs. Fashion seems to Anna Wintour types around which the attract some of the most creative folks to ever industry seems to orbit. Sure, fashion is a have lived - and with these talents come a tough business, but read Front Row, the Stephen Sprousse for Louis Vuitton trunk of
Writer AUGUSTUS LOI
neuroses. The truth is, I have been writing about fashion Fashion seems to offer a sanctuary for the for five years now – and I have picked up outsiders, the freaks, the Lady Gagas and very dear friends along the way. (Yes, even at Alexander McQueens. But before they realise those launch events.) it, they’re party to a scrutinizing, unforgiving, and sometimes, cannibalistic circuit. The secret? Some of us are truly shy. It’s a natural defense from years of being teased for As Georges Danton, a leader in the early letting our freak flag fly. But, after a few swigs stages of the French Revolution, uttered at of champagne and an observant compliment his trial, “The revolution like Saturn devours its about our new shoes, and we do warm up – own children.” or at least get tipsy enough to start thinking you look like David Gandy. In response, we in fashion gird our loins and cocoon ourselves in self-defense.