S ' H A O USE N N O N
S ' H A O N USE N O N COOKING AND REMINISCING WITH THE
I TA L I A N G R A N D M O T H E R S O F
ENOTECA MARIA
JODY S CA R AV ELLA WITH
ELISA PETRINI
FEATURING THE NONNAS’ CLASSIC RECIPES
NEW YORK LONDON TORONTO SYDNE Y NEW DELHI
•
C ON TEN T S
I
BE N V E N U T I a l l ’ E NO T E CA M A R I A
II
C O N SE RV E
M I N E S T R E e A N T I PAS T I
VERDURE
7
CARMELINA PICA
19
Pasta and Beans with Mussels ( 33 Stuffed Sardines ( 35 Warm Seafood Salad ( 36 Smoked Herring Salad with Oranges ( 38 Marinated Eels ( 39
NINA PICARIELLO
Stuffed Eggplant Palermo Style ( 48 Eggplant with Chocolate ( 51 Caponata ( 52 Sicilian-Style Stuffed Artichokes Braised in Tomato Sauce ( 53
1
Sun-Dried Tomatoes Filled with Anchovies and Capers ( 16 Eggplant in Oil and Vinegar ( 17
Married Soup ( 25 Northern-Style Minestrone ( 26 Crepes in Broth ( 28 Abruzzo-Style Farro Soup with Pancetta and Sage ( 30 Snails Palermo Style ( 31
IV
J O D Y S C A R AV E L L A
FR ANCESCA LEONE
Cut Black Olives ( 11 Cracked Green Olives ( 12 Stuffed Hot Green Peppers ( 15
III
•
41 Stuffed Artichokes ( 55 Fried Artichokes ( 56 Artichoke Caponata ( 57 Neapolitan Potato Pie ( 58 Smothered Cauliflower ( 61 Braised Stuffed Escarole ( 62
Fennel with Gorgonzola ( 68 Vegetable Fritters with Two Batters ( 71 Vegetable Ricotta Cups ( 73
Stuffed Peppers with Meat, Pine Nuts, and Raisins ( 65 Roasted Red Peppers with Breadcrumbs and Olives ( 66 Stuffed Fried Cardoons ( 67
V
CE R E A LI , R IS O e G NO C CH I
ROSA TUR ANO
Classic Polenta ( 81 Polenta with Dried Fish and Cauliflower ( 82 Rice Balls with Pork and Saffron ( 83 Risotto with Radicchio ( 85 Butternut Squash Risotto ( 86 Risotto with Strawberries ( 88 Risotto with Artichokes and Shrimp ( 89
VI
PAS TA
ROSARIA VIGORITO
Basic Egg Pasta Dough ( 108 Semolina Pasta Dough ( 109 Simple Tomato Sauces for Pasta ( 110 Simple Nut Sauces for Pasta ( 112 Pappardelle with Porcini in Cream Sauce ( 114 Penne with Radicchio, Walnuts, and Gorgonzola ( 117 Pasta with Broccoli in a Pot ( 118 Spaghetti with Potatoes and Cabbage ( 120 Spaghetti with Sea Urchins ( 121 Ziti with Fresh Sardines, Fennel, and Breadcrumbs ( 122
75
Potato Gnocchi in Meat Sauce with Rolled Beef ( 91 Potato Gnocchi with Porcini and Broccolini ( 93 Ricotta Gnocchi in Tomato Sauce ( 95 Rice Balls Neapolitan Style ( 97
99 Fresh Fettuccine with Tuna, Eggplant, and Mint ( 123 Pappardelle with Salmon, Zucchini, and Walnuts ( 125 Lagane and Chickpeas with Shrimp ( 126 Calamarata with Mussels and Eggplant ( 127 Scialatielli with Clams, Mussels, and Crab ( 128 Linguine with Octopus Sauce ( 131 Linguine with Cuttlefish and Its Ink ( 132 Tagliatelle with Pumpkin and Chestnuts ( 135 Spaghetti with Broccoli Rabe, Sausage, and Cream ( 137
VII
PAS T E I M B O T T I T E e PI Z ZA
Basic Pizza Dough ( 146 Stuffed Fried Dough Crescents ( 147 Sicilian Pizza with Mozzarella, Scallions, and Anchovies ( 148 Onion and Tuna Pizza ( 150 Escarole and Olive Pizza ( 153 Ravioli with Rabbit Filling ( 154 Cannelloni with Meat-and-Ricotta Stuffing ( 157
ADELINA OR A ZZO
IX
CA R N E
169 Sicilian-Style Tuna Fillets with Onions and Vinegar ( 182 Branzino in a Salt Crust with Lemon and Oregano Sauce ( 183 Stuffed Swordfish Rolls ( 184 Bream in Potato Crust ( 187
CHRISTINA NARISI C ARROZZ A
Stuffed Spleen ( 195 Quail with Fried Pancetta and Olives ( 197 Drunken Chicken ( 198 Italian Beef Stew ( 200 Tripe with Tomatoes and White Wine ( 201 Meatballs with Hard-Boiled Eggs Inside ( 203 Meat Loaf with Parsley Sauce ( 204 Roasted Veal Loin ( 205 Calf ’s Liver in Sweet-and-Sour Sauce ( 206
139
Spinach Manicotti ( 159 Calabrian Baked Pasta Casserole ( 160 Pasticcio with Béchamel and Bolognese Sauce ( 162 My Prizewinning Meat and ThreeCheese Lasagna with Eggplant, Asparagus, and Peas ( 165 Sicilian Lasagna ( 167
VIII PE S CE E LV I R A PA N TA L E O
Fish Soup Palermo Style ( 175 Sautéed Cuttlefish or Baby Squid ( 176 Stuffed Calamari ( 177 Sicilian-Style Salt Cold with Raisins, Tomatoes, and Olives ( 179 Eels in Wine and Garlic Sauce ( 180
189
Cotechino and Lentils ( 207 Roasted Pork Loin with Oranges ( 208 Escaped Birds (or Pork Rolls with Pancetta and Sausage) ( 210 Bollito with Parsley Sauce ( 213 Lamb Stew with Creamy Cheese Sauce ( 215 Rack of Lamb with Tomatoes and Potatoes ( 217 Baked Lamb’s Head ( 218 My Nonna’s Rabbit ( 221
X
D O L CI
TERESA SCALICI
Fig Cookies ( 229 Honey-Glazed Dough Balls ( 232 Chocolate Blood Pudding ( 233 Sicilian Milk Pudding ( 235 Stuffed Baked Peaches ( 236
XI
PI AT T I T I PICI d e l l e FE S T E
Easter Bread ( 257 Wheat Berry Pudding for St. Lucy’s Day ( 259
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS INDEX
223 Fried Ricotta Turnovers ( 239 Sweet Manicotti ( 240 Pumpkin Cheesecake ( 243 Blueberry Tart ( 244 Chocolate Rice Crostata ( 246
M A R G H E R I TA A M AT O
249
Easter Wheat Pie ( 260 Chickpea Fritters ( 263
265 267
BRAISED STUFFED ESCAROLE 1
S C A R O L A I M B O T T I TA
4 servings
NINA PICARIELLO
( When I was growing up in my nonna’s house, most of our vegetables came from her garden, including lots of escarole. I love to stuff the leaves with this flavorful mixture. 1 large head escarole, washed 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons pine nuts, chopped 1 tablespoon nonpareil capers in brine, drained 2 anchovy fillets, chopped
1 teaspoon minced garlic 1⁄3 cup chopped pitted black olives 1 plum tomato, seeded and finely chopped ½ cup fresh breadcrumbs 1 cup vegetable broth
1. Set
a large bowl of ice water next to the stove. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Submerge the escarole in the boiling water, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 2 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the escarole to the ice water. Submerge and cool. 2. Warm
2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Add the pine nuts, capers, anchovies, and garlic; cook until fragrant and lightly browned, stirring all the while, about 1 minute. Add the olives and tomato; cook for 1 minute. Stir in the breadcrumbs and scrape this mixture into a large bowl. Let cool for a few minutes. 3. Gently squeeze the escarole dry over the sink; set it on a cutting board. Carefully open
the leaves and smear the breadcrumb mixture in the center of the head and between the larger leaves. Bring the leaves back into a fairly tight head. Tie gently but securely with butcher’s twine to hold its shape. 4. In
the same skillet, warm the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Set the stuffed escarole in the skillet and cook on all sides until lightly browned, turning occasionally with tongs, about 4 minutes. 5. Pour
in the broth and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover and cook until tender, 15 to 20 minutes, turning the head once or twice and basting it even more often with the broth. To serve, transfer the escarole to a cutting board; snip off the twine and cut the head into even quarters through its core. Serve warm, moistened with a little broth from the skillet, if desired.
62
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NON NA’S HOUSE
V erdure
(
63
17 8
(
NON NA’S HOUSE
SICILIAN-STYLE SALT COD WITH RAISINS, TOMATOES, AND OLIVES B A C C A L À A L L A S I C I L I A N A 1
4 servings
TERESA SCALICI
( This is the traditional Sicilian preparation for baccalà with my nonna’s additions: tomatoes and black olives. If you like, you can serve the dish over cooked ziti or penne. 1 pound baccalà (salt cod) 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes ½ cup raisins
½ cup pine nuts 1⁄3 cup pitted black olives ¼ cup nonpareil capers in brine, drained and rinsed
1. Put
the baccalà in a large bowl, cover with cold water, and refrigerate for 24 hours, changing the water twice. Drain, then break the cod into four equal pieces. 2. Warm
the oil in a deep skillet set over medium heat. Add the garlic; cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, raisins, pine nuts, olives, capers, and ½ cup water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes begin to break down into a sauce, about 10 minutes. 3. Add
the baccalà. Cover and simmer until the fish flakes when pricked with a fork, about 30 minutes. Serve in bowls.
P esce
(
179
[Insert image Meatballs]
202
(
NON NA’S HOUSE
MEATBALLS WITH HARD-BOILED EGGS INSIDE P O L P E T T E C O N U OVA
1
6 servings
ADELINA ORAZZO
( I created my version of this classic dish to thank my neighbors for sharing a pig with my family. It was so dramatic that they asked, “Where do you get these ideas?” These meatballs taste as good as they look. 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for the baking sheet ½ cup minced onion 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1⁄3 pound lean ground beef 1⁄3 pound ground pork 1⁄3 pound ground veal 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 1 ounce Pecorino Romano, finely grated (about ¼ cup)
2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for serving 6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled Green salad tossed with a light vinaigrette, for serving (optional)
1. Soak
the breadcrumbs in a small bowl with 1 cup water for 10 minutes. Squeeze them dry over the sink in small handfuls; transfer to a large bowl. 2. Warm the oil in a small skillet set over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic. Cook,
stirring often, until softened, about 5 minutes. Scrape the onion and garlic into the bowl with the breadcrumbs and let cool for 10 minutes. 3. Position
a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet. 4. Crumble
in the ground beef, pork, and veal and break them apart with a fork. Stir in the eggs, Pecorino Romano, parsley, salt, and pepper. Mix with clean hands until you have a uniform mixture. 5. Divide
this meat mixture into six equal portions. Cup a portion in your palms, flatten and form the meat mixture to make a concave depression at its center; set a hard-boiled egg in this, then wrap and form the meat mixture into a ball around the egg, sealing it well on all sides with no gaps. Set on the baking sheet and repeat with the remainder of the meat mixture and eggs. 6. Bake
until the meatballs are cooked through and browned, about 20 minutes. Serve with a tossed green salad, if desired. C arne ( 203
STUFFED BAKED PEACHES 1
PESCHE AL FORNO RIPIENE
6 servings
C H R I S T I N A N A R I S I C A R R O Z Z A ( During peach season, the height of summer, this dessert is light and refreshing. Be sure to look for balsamic glaze, which is different from balsamic vinegar, in the supermarket.
6 large peaches, halved and pitted ½ cup packed light brown sugar 2 cups mascarpone
¾ cup confectioners’ sugar ½ cup chopped roasted almonds ¼ cup balsamic glaze
1. Position the rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. 2. Arrange the peaches cut side up on a large rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle evenly with
the brown sugar. Bake until tender but not soft, and the sugar has melted and is bubbling, about 25 minutes. Transfer the baking sheet to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. 3. Place
the mascarpone and confectioners’ sugar in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade. Process until smooth. Scrape the mixture into a medium bowl and stir in the almonds. 4. Fill
the centers of the peaches evenly with the mascarpone mixture, about 2 tablespoons per peach. Refrigerate for 1 hour. Drizzle each peach with 1 teaspoon balsamic glaze to serve.
236
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1
D olci
(
2 37
<HA>Recipes [Insert images Margherita 1 to Margherita 4 throughout section]
[Insert Easter Bread image]
256
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NON NA’S HOUSE
EASTER BREAD
L A TAG L I ATA D I PA S Q UA
1
8 servings
A D E L I N A O R A Z Z O ( Italian Easter breads vary from region to region, town to town, and even family to family. Some are savory, like this one; others are sweet. On Easter morning, we serve this bread on a festive platter with slices of soppressata, ricotta salata, fennel, and hard-boiled eggs.
2⁄3 cup warm milk (105° to 115°F) ¼ cup sugar 1 (¼ ounce) package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons) 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled to room temperature, plus more for greasing 3 large eggs, at room temperature ½ teaspoon salt 21⁄3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting and kneading
4 ounces salumi, soppressata or prosciutto cotto, or a mixture, casings removed and meat diced 1 ounce finely grated Pecorino Romano (about ¼ cup) 1 ounce finely grated Grana Padano (about ¼ cup) 3 large hard-boiled eggs Sliced soppressata, for garnish Shaved ricotta salata, for garnish Trimmed, sliced fennel bulb, for garnish
1. Whisk
the milk, sugar, and yeast in a small bowl and set aside until foamy, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the butter, 2 eggs, and salt until uniform. Stir in the flour until a soft dough forms. Lightly dust a work surface with flour, turn the dough out onto it, and knead for 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Gather the dough into a ball. 2. Lightly
butter a large bowl, set the dough in it, and turn over to coat in the butter. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and set aside in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in bulk, about 1½ hours. 3. Turn
the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Flatten the dough; add the salumi, Pecorino Romano, and Grano Padano, and knead lightly until well incorporated. Divide the dough into two equal pieces; roll each piece into a 14-inch-long strand. Pinch these two strands together at one end, then twist them together six times lengthwise to make a single coiled strand. Form the strand into a circle and pinch the ends to seal. 4. Lightly
butter a large rimmed baking sheet. Transfer the coiled ring to it. Press the hard-boiled eggs at three equidistant spots around the coil, using the natural indentations caused by the crossing of the strands.
P iatti tipici delle F este
(
2 57
5. Whisk
the remaining egg and 2 tablespoons water in a small bowl until foamy. Brush lightly over the bread. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and set aside in a warm, draftfree place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. Meanwhile, position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. 6. Bake until golden brown and hollow-sounding when tapped, 25 to 30 minutes. Trans-
fer to a wire rack to cool for 15 minutes or to room temperature, about 1 hour. To serve, slice the bread into wedges and surround these on a platter with soppressata, ricotta salata, and sliced fennel for garnish.
258
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NON NA’S HOUSE
Index
Page references in italic refer to illustrations.
A almonds, 226 Amalfi-Style Nut Sauce for Spaghetti, 113 Fig Cookies, 229–31, 230 Neapolitan-Style Pesto for Bucatini, 112 Stuffed Baked Peaches, 236, 237 Amalfi-Style Nut Sauce for Spaghetti, 113 amaretto cookie crumbs, in Pumpkin Cheesecake, 242, 243 Amato, Margherita (Palermo) Calf ’s Liver in Sweet-andSour Sauce, 206 Chickpea Fritters, 262, 263 Pasta with Broccoli in a Pot, 118, 119 Rice Balls with Pork and Saffron, 83–84 Sicilian Lasagna, 167 Sicilian Pizza with Mozzarella, Scallions, and Anchovies, 148, 149 Stuffed Peppers with Meat, Pine Nuts, and Raisins, 64, 65
Wheat Berry Pudding for St. Lucy’s Day, 259 Ziti with Fresh Sardines, Fennel, and Breadcrumbs, 122 see also 249–55 anchovies, 9 Amalfi-Style Nut Sauce for Spaghetti, 113 Braised Stuffed Escarole 62, 63 Escarole and Olive Pizza, 152, 153 Pasta with Broccoli in a Pot, 118, 119 Sicilian Pizza with Mozzarella, Scallions and, 148, 149 Smothered Cauliflower, 60, 61 Stuffed Fried Cardoons, 67 Stuffed Fried Dough Crescents, 147 Stuffed Hot Green Peppers 14, 15 Sun-Dried Tomatoes Filled with Capers and, 14, 16 Ziti with Fresh Sardines, Fennel, and Breadcrumbs, 122 anelletti, 253 Sicilian Lasagna, 167 antipasti, 31–39 Cracked Green Olives, 12, 13 Cut Black Olives, 11, 13 Eels, Marinated, 39
Eggplant in Oil and Vinegar, 14, 17 Sardines, Stuffed, 34, 35 Seafood Salad, Warm, 36, 37 Smoked Herring Salad with Oranges, 38 Snails Palermo Style, 31 Stuffed Hot Green Peppers, 14, 15 Sun-Dried Tomatoes Filled with Anchovies and Capers, 14, 16 artichoke(s), 170, 173 Caponata, 57 Fried, 56 Risotto with Shrimp and, 89 Sicilian-Style Stuffed, Braised in Tomato Sauce, 53 Stuffed, 54, 55 asparagus, 79 Meat and ThreeCheese Lasagna with Eggplant, Peas and, My Prizewinning, 164, 165–66
B babbaluci, 173 Snails Palermo Style, 31 baccalà (salt cod), 261 Sicilian-Style Salt Cod with Raisins, Tomatoes, and Olives, 178, 179
basil, 8, 42, 78, 104, 105, 191, 192 Fresh, Tomato Sauce, 110 Neapolitan-Style Pesto for Bucatini, 112 bay leaves, 105, 192 in pasta water, 103 Béchamel, 162–63 beef: Bollito with Parsley Sauce, 212, 213–14 Cannelloni with Meat-andRicotta Stuffing, 156, 157–58 Married Soup, 25 Meat and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Eggplant, Asparagus, and Peas, My Prizewinning, 164, 165–66 Meat Loaf with Parsley Sauce, 204 Meatballs with Hard-Boiled Eggs Inside, 202, 203 Pasticcio with Béchamel and Bolognese Sauce, 162–63 Rolled, Potato Gnocchi in Meat Sauce with, 90, 91–92 Spleen, Stuffed, 195 Stew, Italian, 200 Tripe with Tomatoes and White Wine, 201 Beer Batter, Vegetable Fritters with, 70, 71–72 beets, in Northern-Style Minestrone, 26, 27 Blood Pudding, Chocolate, 233 blueberry(ies): Sweet Manicotti, 240, 241 Tart, 244–45 Bollito with Parsley Sauce, 212, 213–14 Bolognese Sauce, 162–63 Braciole, or Rolled Beef, Potato Gnocchi in Meat Sauce with, 90, 91–92
26 8
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INDEX
Branzino in a Salt Crust with Lemon and Oregano Sauce, 183 bread, 8 Easter, 256, 257–58 breadcrumbs, 23, 42, 79, 105 Bream in Potato Crust, 186, 187 broccoli: Pasta with, in a Pot, 118, 119 Vegetable Fritters with Two Batters, 70, 71–72 Broccolini, Potato Gnocchi with Porcini and, 93, 94 Broccoli Rabe, Spaghetti with Sausage, Cream and, 137 Broth, Crepes in, 28, 29 Bucatini, Neapolitan-Style Pesto for, 112 butternut squash: Risotto, 86, 87 Tagliatelle with Chestnuts and, 134, 135–36
C cabbage: Married Soup, 25 Spaghetti with Potatoes and, 120 caciocavallo, in Stuffed Eggplant Palermo Style, 48, 49 Calamarata with Mussels and Eggplant, 127 calamari: Fish Soup Palermo Style, 175 Stuffed, 177 see also squid Calf ’s Liver in Sweet-and-Sour Sauce, 206 cannellini beans (white kidney beans): Northern-Style Minestrone, 26, 27 Pasta and, with Mussels, 32, 33
Cannelloni with Meat-and-Ricotta Stuffing, 156, 157–58 canning, at end of season, 10, 104 Capers, Sun-Dried Tomatoes Filled with Anchovies and, 14, 16 capocollo, 6 Caponata, 52, 104, 228 Artichoke, 57 Cardoons, Stuffed Fried, 67 Carnevale, 251 Carrozza, Christina Narisi (Palermo and Lombardy) Basic Egg Pasta Dough, 108 Bollito with Parsley Sauce, 212, 213–14 Butternut Squash Risotto, 86, 87 Caponata, 52 Drunken Chicken, 198, 199 Fig Cookies, 229–31, 230 Fried Artichokes, 56 Meat Loaf with Parsley Sauce, 204 Northern-Style Minestrone, 26, 27 Pappardelle with Salmon, Zucchini, and Walnuts, 124, 125 Penne with Radicchio, Walnuts, and Gorgonzola, 116, 117 Pork Rolls with Pancetta and Sausage (or Escaped Birds), 210, 211 Pumpkin Cheesecake, 242, 243 Risotto with Strawberries, 87, 88 Roasted Pork Loin with Oranges, 208–9 Sicilian Milk Pudding, 234, 235 Spaghetti with Potatoes and Cabbage, 120
Stuffed Baked Peaches, 236, 237 Stuffed Calamari, 177 Stuffed Fried Cardoons, 67 see also 189–94 cauliflower: Polenta with Dried Fish and, 82 Smothered, 60, 61 Vegetable Fritters with Two Batters, 70, 71–72 Cheesecake, Pumpkin, 242, 243 Chestnuts, Tagliatelle with Pumpkin and, 134, 135–36 chicken, 3, 43, 47, 79, 105 Drunken, 198, 199 Married Soup, 25 chickpea(s), 25, 252, 259 Batter, Vegetable Fritters with, 70, 71–72 Fritters, 262, 263 Lagane and Shrimp with, 126 chitarra, cutting pasta with, 101 chocolate, 192, 224, 235 Blood Pudding, 233 chips, in Fig Cookies, 229–31, 230 Eggplant with, 50, 51 Rice Crostata, 246, 247 Christmas Eve, 24, 39, 100, 147, 148, 150, 180, 193–94, 249, 252, 253 citron, in Fig Cookies, 229–31, 230 clams: Fish Soup Palermo Style, 175 Scialatielli with Mussels, Crab and, 128, 129 Warm Seafood Salad, 36, 37 cod: Fish Soup Palermo Style, 175 Sicilian-Style, with Raisins, Tomatoes, and Olives, 178, 179 cookies, 99–100 Fig, 229–31, 230
dandelion greens, in Married Soup, 25 desserts, see sweets Dough Balls, Honey-Glazed, 232 Drunken Chicken, 198, 199
Basic, 108 Semolina, 109, 135 eggplant, 42, 173 Calamarata with Mussels and, 127 canning, 104 Caponata, 52 with Chocolate, 50, 51 Fresh Fettuccine with Tuna, Mint and, 123 Meat and ThreeCheese Lasagna with Asparagus, Peas and, My Prizewinning, 164, 165–66 in Oil and Vinegar, 17 Stuffed, Palermo Style, 48, 49 and Tomato Sauce, My Nonna’s, 111 Enoteca Maria, founding of, 2–3, 5–6 Escaped Birds (or Pork Rolls with Pancetta and Sausage), 210, 211 escarole: Braised Stuffed, 62, 63 Married Soup, 25 and Olive Pizza, 152, 153
E
F
cotechino, 75–76 Bollito with Parsley Sauce, 212, 213–14 and Lentils, 207 Crab, Scialatielli with Clams, Mussels and, 128, 129 cream sauce, pastas with, 78–79 Pappardelle with Porcini, 114, 115 Pasticcio with Béchamel and Bolognese Sauce, 162–63 Spaghetti with Broccoli Rabe and Sausage, 137 Spaghetti with Potatoes and Cabbage, 120 Crepes in Broth, 28, 29 Crostata, Chocolate Rice, 246, 247 cuttlefish: Linguine with, and Its Ink, 132, 133 Sautéed, 176
D
Easter, 67, 192 Bread, 256, 257–58 Wheat Pie, 260–61 eels, 9 Marinated, 39 in Wine and Garlic Sauce, 180, 181 eggs, hard-boiled: Calabrian Baked Pasta Casserole, 160–61 Easter Bread, 256, 257–58 Meatballs with, Inside, 202, 203 Sicilian Lasagna, 167 egg pasta dough:
farro, 75 Soup with Pancetta and Sage, Abruzzo-Style, 30 fennel, 105 Easter Bread, 256, 257 with Gorgonzola, 68, 69 Polenta with Dried Fish and Cauliflower, 82 Ziti with Fresh Sardines, Breadcrumbs and, 122 fettuccine, 103, 106–7, 128 Fresh, with Tuna, Eggplant, and Mint, 123 Walnut Sauce for, 112
INDEX
(
269
Fig Cookies, 229–31, 230 fish: appetizers, see antipasti Branzino in a Salt Crust with Lemon and Oregano Sauce, 182 Bream in Potato Crust, 186, 187 on Christmas Eve, 193, 253 Dried, Polenta with Cauliflower and, 82 La Vigilia, 254 Pappardelle with Salmon, Zucchini, and Walnuts, 124, 125 Sicilian-Style Salt Cod with Raisins, Tomatoes, and Olives, 178, 179 Soup Palermo Style, 175 Stuffed Sardines 34, 35 Stuffed Swordfish Rolls, 184, 185 see also fish courses fish and seafood, pasta dishes with: Calamarata with Mussels and Eggplant, 127 Fresh Fettuccine with Tuna, Eggplant, and Mint, 123 Lagane and Chickpeas with Shrimp, 126 Linguine with Cuttlefish and Its Ink, 132, 133 Linguine with Octopus Sauce, 130, 131 Pappardelle with Salmon, Zucchini, and Walnuts, 124, 125 Scialatielli with Clams, Mussels, and Crab, 128, 129 Spaghetti with Sea Urchins, 121 Ziti with Fresh Sardines, Fennel, and Breadcrumbs, 122
270
(
INDEX
fish courses, 175–87 Branzino in a Salt Crust with Lemon and Oregano Sauce, 183 Bream in Potato Crust, 186, 187 Calamari, Stuffed, 177 Cuttlefish or Baby Squid, Sautéed, 176 Eels in Wine and Garlic Sauce, 180, 181 Fish Soup Palermo Style, 175 Salt Cod with Raisins, Tomatoes, and Olives, Sicilian-Style, 178, 179 Swordfish Rolls, Stuffed, 184, 185 Tuna Fillets with Onions and Vinegar, Sicilian-Style, 182 fontina, in Stuffed Fried Dough Crescents, 147 fritters: Chickpea, 262, 263 Vegetable, with Two Batters, 70, 71–72 frittole, 9
G gnocchi, 79, 225 Potato, in Meat Sauce with Rolled Beef, 90, 91–92 Potato, with Porcini and Broccolini, 93, 94 Ricotta, in Tomato Sauce, 94, 95–96 Gorgonzola, 78, 79 Fennel with, 68, 69 Penne with Radicchio, Walnuts and, 116, 117 Sauce, 214
H ham: Neapolitan Potato Pie, 58, 59 Sicilian Lasagna, 167
harvest, preserving for winter, 10, 104 herbs, 104–5, 192 Herring, Smoked, Salad with Oranges, 38 holiday specialties: Chickpea Fritters, 262, 263 Easter Bread, 256, 257–58 Easter Wheat Pie, 260–61 Wheat Berry Pudding for St. Lucy’s Day, 259 Honey-Glazed Dough Balls, 232 hunting, 9, 80
I Immaculate Conception, Feast of, 229, 252 Chickpea Fritters for, 262, 263
L Lagane and Chickpeas with Shrimp, 126 lamb, 43, 106, 192 Head, Baked, 218, 219 Rack of, with Tomatoes and Potatoes, 216, 217 Stew with Creamy Cheese Sauce, 215 lard, 8–9, 192 Roasted Pork Loin with Oranges, 208 lasagna, 140, 162, 191, 253 Meat and Three-Cheese, with Eggplant, Asparagus, and Peas, My Prizewinning, 164, 165–66 noodles, in Lagane and Chickpeas with Shrimp, 126 Pasticcio with Béchamel and Bolognese Sauce, 162–63 Sicilian, 167 Lemon and Oregano Sauce, 183 Lentils, Cotechino and, 207
Leone, Francesca (Calabria) Calabrian Baked Pasta Casserole, 160–61 Chocolate Blood Pudding, 233 Cracked Green Olives, 12, 13 Cut Black Olives, 11, 13 Eels in Wine and Garlic Sauce, 180, 181 Eggplant in Oil and Vinegar, 14, 17 Polenta with Dried Fish and Cauliflower, 82 Quail with Fried Pancetta and Olives, 196, 197 Stuffed Hot Green Peppers, 14, 15 Sun-Dried Tomatoes Filled with Anchovies and Capers, 14, 16 see also 7–10 linguine: with Cuttlefish and Its Ink, 132, 133 with Octopus Sauce, 130, 131 Liver, Calf ’s, in Sweet-and-Sour Sauce, 206
M manicotti: Spinach, 159 Sweet, 240, 241 Marinated Eels, 39 Married Soup, 25 Mascarpone, 79 in polenta, 80 Pumpkin Cheesecake, 242, 243 Stuffed Baked Peaches, 236, 237 Walnut Sauce for Fettuccine, 112 meatballs, 142–43 Calabrian Baked Pasta Casserole, 160–61 with Hard-Boiled Eggs Inside, 202, 203
meat courses, 195–221 Beef Stew, Italian, 200 Bollito with Parsley Sauce, 212, 213–14 Calf ’s Liver in Sweet-andSour Sauce, 206 Chicken, Drunken, 198, 199 Cotechino and Lentils, 207 Lamb, Rack of, with Tomatoes and Potatoes, 216, 217 Lamb’s Head, Baked, 218, 219 Lamb Stew with Creamy Cheese Sauce, 215 Meatballs with Hard-Boiled Eggs Inside, 202, 203 Meat Loaf with Parsley Sauce, 204 Pork Loin, Roasted, with Oranges, 208–9 Pork Rolls with Pancetta and Sausage (or Escaped Birds), 210, 211 Quail with Fried Pancetta and Olives, 196, 197 Rabbit, My Nonna’s, 220, 221 Spleen, Stuffed, 195 Tripe with Tomatoes and White Wine, 201 Veal Loin, Roasted, 205 Milk Pudding, Sicilian, 234, 235 minestra maritata, 139–40 Minestrone, Northern-Style, 26, 27 mint: Fresh Fettuccine with Tuna, Eggplant and, 123 Stuffed Eggplant Palermo Style, 48, 49 mozzarella, 42 Cannelloni with Meat-andRicotta Stuffing, 156, 157–58
Meat and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Eggplant, Asparagus, and Peas, My Prizewinning, 164, 165–66 Neapolitan Potato Pie, 58, 59 Ravioli with Rabbit Filling, 184–85 Rice Balls Neapolitan Style, 97 Sicilian Lasagna, 167 Sicilian Pizza with Scallions, Anchovies and, 148, 149 Spaghetti with Broccoli Rabe, Sausage, and Cream, 137 Spinach Manicotti, 159 Stuffed Fried Dough Crescents, 147 Stuffed Peppers with Meat, Pine Nuts, and Raisins, 65 mushrooms, 17, 80, 110, 135, 142, 147, 165, 198 Meat and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Eggplant, Asparagus, and Peas, My Prizewinning, 164, 165–66 see porcini mushrooms mussels: Calamarata with Eggplant and, 127 Fish Soup Palermo Style, 175 Pasta and Beans with, 32, 33 Scialatielli with Clams, Crab and, 128, 129 Warm Seafood Salad, 36, 37
N New Year’s Eve, 67, 75, 76, 192, 207, 210, 253–54 northern-style cooking, 76, 79, 80, 191–92 nutmeg, 105, 192
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271
nut sauces for pasta, simple, 112–13 Amalfi-Style, for Spaghetti, 113 Neapolitan-Style Pesto for Bucatini, 112 Walnut, for Fettuccine, 112
O Octopus Sauce, Linguine with, 130, 131 olive(s), 4, 23, 42, 100, 226, 251, 255 Black, Cut, 11, 13 and Escarole and Pizza, 152, 153 Green, Cracked, 12, 13 green, in Artichoke Caponata, 57 Onion and Tuna Pizza, 150, 151 Neapolitan-Style Pesto for Bucatini, 112 Quail with Fried Pancetta and, 196, 197 Roasted Red Peppers with Breadcrumbs and, 66 Sicilian-Style Salt Cod with Raisins, Tomatoes, and, 178, 179 Smothered Cauliflower, 60, 61 onion(s): and Tuna Pizza, 150, 151 Vegetable Fritters with Two Batters, 70, 71–72 Oranges, Smoked Herring Salad with, 38 Orazzo, Adelina (Naples) Basic Pizza Dough, 146 Cannelloni with Meat-andRicotta Stuffing, 156, 157–58
272
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Chocolate Rice Crostata, 246, 247 Easter Bread, 256, 257–58 Escarole and Olive Pizza, 152, 153 Honey-Glazed Dough Balls, 232 Married Soup, 25 Meatballs with Hard-Boiled Eggs Inside, 202, 203 Pasta and Beans with Mussels, 32, 33 Potato Gnocchi in Meat Sauce with Rolled Beef, 90, 91–92 Tagliatelle with Pumpkin and Chestnuts, 134, 135–36 Tripe with Tomatoes and White Wine, 201 Vegetable Fritters with Two Batters, 70, 71–72 see also 139–45 oregano, 192 and Lemon Sauce, 183
P pancetta, 8, 79, 192 Abruzzo-Style Farro Soup with Sage and, 30 Pork Rolls with Sausage and (or Escaped Birds), 210, 211 Quail with Fried, and Olives, 196, 197 panelle, 251–52 Pantaleo, Elvira (Palermo) Artichoke Caponata, 57 Branzino in a Salt Crust with Lemon and Oregano Sauce, 183 Bream in Potato Crust, 186, 187 Fish Soup Palermo Style, 175 Fresh Fettuccine with Tuna, Eggplant, and Mint, 123 Italian Beef Stew, 200
Linguine with Cuttlefish and Its Ink, 132, 133 Sautéed Cuttlefish or Baby Squid, 176 Sicilian-Style Stuffed Artichokes Braised in Tomato Sauce, 53 Sicilian-Style Tuna Fillets with Onions and Vinegar, 182 Smoked Herring Salad with Oranges, 38 Smothered Cauliflower, 60, 61 Snails Palermo Style, 31 Spaghetti with Sea Urchins, 121 Stuffed Eggplant, 48, 49 Swordfish Rolls, Stuffed, 184, 185 see also 169–74 panzerotti, 147 Pappardelle with Porcini in Cream Sauce, 114, 115 Pappardelle with Salmon, Zucchini, and Walnuts, 124, 125 Parmigiano-Reggiano: Calabrian Baked Pasta Casserole, 160–61 Crepes in Broth, 28, 29 Meat and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Eggplant, Asparagus, and Peas, My Prizewinning, 164, 165–66 Meat Loaf with Parsley Sauce, 205 Neapolitan Potato Pie, 58, 59 Pappardelle with Porcini in Cream Sauce, 114, 115 Pasticcio with Béchamel and Bolognese Sauce, 162–63 Penne with Radicchio, Walnuts, and Gorgonzola, 116, 117
Ravioli with Rabbit Filling, 154–55 Rice Balls Neapolitan Style, 97 Risotto with Strawberries, 88 Sicilian Lasagna, 167 Spaghetti with Potatoes and Cabbage, 120 Stuffed Calamari, 177 Walnut Sauce for Fettuccine, 112 parsley, 105, 192 Salsa Verde, 213 Walnut Sauce for Fettuccine, 112 pasta, 99, 106–37, 225 bay leaves in water for, 103 and Beans with Mussels, 32, 33 with Broccoli in a Pot, 118, 119 Calamarata with Mussels and Eggplant, 127 dough, Adelina’s, 135 Dough, Basic Egg, 108 dough, rolling and cutting, 101, 106–7, 225 Dough, Semolina, 109, 135 Fettuccine, Fresh, with Tuna, Eggplant, and Mint, 123 flours for, 100–1 fresh, how to roll, cut, and cook, 106–7 Lagane and Chickpeas with Shrimp, 126 Linguine with Cuttlefish and Its Ink, 132, 133 Linguine with Octopus Sauce, 130, 131 nut sauces for, simple, 112–13 Pappardelle with Porcini in Cream Sauce, 114, 115 Pappardelle with Salmon, Zucchini, and Walnuts, 124, 125
Penne with Radicchio, Walnuts, and Gorgonzola, 116, 117 Scialatielli with Clams, Mussels, and Crab, 128, 129 Spaghetti with Broccoli Rabe, Sausage, and Cream, 137 Spaghetti with Potatoes and Cabbage, 120 Spaghetti with Sea Urchins, 121 Tagliatelle with Pumpkin and Chestnuts, 134, 135–36 Ziti with Fresh Sardines, Fennel, and Breadcrumbs, 122 pastas, stuffed, 154–67 Calabrian Baked Pasta Casserole, 160–61 Cannelloni with Meat-andRicotta Stuffing, 156, 157–58 Meat and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Eggplant, Asparagus, and Peas, My Prizewinning, 164, 165–66 Pasticcio with Béchamel and Bolognese Sauce, 162–63 Ravioli with Rabbit Filling, 154–55 Sicilian Lasagna, 167 Spinach Manicotti, 159 Pasticcio with Béchamel and Bolognese Sauce, 162–63 Peaches, Stuffed Baked, 236, 237 peas: Meat and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Eggplant, Asparagus and, My Prizewinning, 164, 165–66 Sicilian Lasagna, 167 Vegetable Ricotta Cups, 73
Pecorino Romano: Lamb Stew with Creamy Cheese Sauce, 215 Smothered Cauliflower, 60, 61 Penne with Radicchio, Walnuts, and Gorgonzola, 116, 117 peppers: Hot Green, Stuffed, 14, 15 Roasted Red, in Amalfi-Style Nut Sauce for Spaghetti, 113 Roasted Red, with Breadcrumbs and Olives, 66 Stuffed with Meat, Pine Nuts, and Raisins, 64, 65 pesto: for Bucatini, NeapolitanStyle, 112 Ricotta Gnocchi in Tomato Sauce, 94, 95 phyllo, in Onion and Tuna Pizza, 150, 151 Pica, Carmelina (Campania) Easter Wheat Pie, 260–61 Neapolitan Potato Pie, 58, 59 Rice Balls Neapolitan Style, 97 Risotto with Artichokes and Shrimp, 89 Roasted Red Peppers with Breadcrumbs and Olives, 66 Spinach Manicotti, 159 Stuffed Artichokes, 54, 55 see also 18–24 Picariello, Nina (Campania) Baked Lamb’s Head, 218, 219 Braised Stuffed Escarole, 62, 63 Calamarata with Mussels and Eggplant, 127 Eggplant with Chocolate, 50, 51 Lagane and Chickpeas with Shrimp, 126
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273
Picariello, Nina (continued ) Linguine with Octopus Sauce, 130, 131 Marinated Eels, 39 Potato Gnocchi with Porcini and Broccolini, 93, 94 Scialatielli with Clams, Mussels, and Crab, 128, 129 Stuffed Spleen, 195 Vegetable Ricotta Cups, 73 Warm Seafood Salad, 36, 37 see also 41–47 pies: Potato, 58 Wheat, Easter, 260–61 Pine Nuts, Stuffed Peppers with Meat, Raisins and, 64, 65 pizza, 146–53 Escarole and Olive, 152, 153 flours for, 100–1 with Mozzarella, Scallions, and Anchovies, Sicilian, 148, 149 Onion and Tuna, 150, 151 pizza dough: Basic, 146 buying, 146 Stuffed Fried Dough Crescents, 147 pizzelle, 100 polenta, 80, 192 Classic, 81 with Dried Fish and Cauliflower, 82 with Drunken Chicken, 198, 199 with Rabbit, My Nonna’s, 220, 221 with Rolled Pork, Pancetta, and Sausage (or Escaped Birds), 210, 211 porcini mushrooms: Cherry Tomato Pasta Sauce with, 110
274
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Pappardelle in Cream Sauce with, 114, 115 Potato Gnocchi with Broccolini and, 93, 94 pork, 4, 6, 140, 142, 192, 253 Bollito with Parsley Sauce, 212, 213–14 Calabrian Baked Pasta Casserole, 160–61 Cotechino and Lentils, 207 Loin, Roasted, with Oranges, 208–9 Married Soup, 25 Meatballs with Hard-Boiled Eggs Inside, 202, 203 Pasticcio with Béchamel and Bolognese Sauce, 162–63 Rice Balls with Saffron and, 83–84 Rolls with Pancetta and Sausage (or Escaped Birds), 210, 211 Stuffed Peppers with Meat, Pine Nuts, and Raisins, 64, 65 Tagliatelle with Pumpkin and Chestnuts, 135, 136 see also sausage potato(es), 76, 78, 79, 225, 252 Crust, Bream in, 186, 187 gnocchi, 79 Gnocchi in Meat Sauce with Rolled Beef, 90, 91–92 Gnocchi with Porcini and Broccolini, 93, 94 Italian Beef Stew, 200 Northern-Style Minestrone, 26, 27 Pie, 58 Spaghetti with Cabbage and, 120 Vegetable Ricotta Cups, 73 prosciutto cotto: in Easter Bread, 256, 257 in Sicilian Lasagna, 167
prosciutto crudo: in Meat and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Eggplant, Asparagus, and Peas, My Prizewinning, 164, 165–66 provolone: Calabrian Baked Pasta Casserole, 160–61 Stuffed Fried Dough Crescents, 147 puddings: Chocolate Blood, 233 Milk, Sicilian, 234, 235 Wheat Berry, for St. Lucy’s Day, 259 pumpkin: Cheesecake, 242, 243 Tagliatelle with Chestnuts and, 134, 135–36
Q quail, 9 with Fried Pancetta and Olives, 196, 197
R rabbit, 80 Filling, Ravioli with, 154–55 My Nonna’s, 220, 221 radicchio: Penne with Walnuts, Gorgonzola and, 116, 117 Risotto with, 85, 87 Ragù (Meat Sauce), 91–92 Bolognese, 162–63 Raisins, Stuffed Peppers with Meat, Pine Nuts and, 64, 65 ravioli, 44, 103 with Rabbit Filling, 154–55 rice, 79 Balls Neapolitan Style, 97 Balls with Pork and Saffron, 83–84
Crostata, Chocolate, 246, 247 Northern-Style Minestrone, 26, 27 see also risotto ricotta: Cannelloni Stuffed with Meat and, 156, 157–58 Easter Wheat Pie, 260–61 Gnocchi in Tomato Sauce, 94, 95–96 Meat and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Eggplant, Asparagus, and Peas, My Prizewinning, 164, 165–66 Spinach Manicotti, 159 Sweet Manicotti, 240, 241 Turnovers, Fried, 238, 239 Vegetable Cups, 73 risotto, 79 with Artichokes and Shrimp, 89 Butternut Squash, 86, 87 with Radicchio, 85, 87 with Strawberries, 87, 88 rosemary, 105, 192
S saffron, 104 Rice Balls with Pork and, 83–84 sage, 105, 192 Abruzzo-Style Farro Soup with Pancetta and, 30 St. Joseph’s Day, 35, 122, 251 Stuffed Sardines, 34, 35 Ziti with Fresh Sardines, Fennel, and Breadcrumbs, 122 St. Lucy’s Day, 252 Rice Balls with Pork and Saffron for, 83–84 Wheat Berry Pudding for, 259 salads: Seafood, Warm, 36, 37
Smoked Herring, with Oranges, 38 salami, in Neapolitan Potato Pie, 58, 59 Salmon, Pappardelle with Zucchini, Walnuts and, 124, 125 salsa verde, 191, 213 Bollito with Parsley Sauce, 212, 213 Meat Loaf with Parsley Sauce, 204 salt cod (baccalà): Polenta with Dried Fish with Cauliflower, 82 with Raisins, Tomatoes, and Olives, Sicilian-Style, 178, 179 salumi, in Easter Bread, 256, 257 sardines, 251 Fresh, Ziti with Fennel, Breadcrumbs and, 122 Stuffed, 34, 35 sauces: Béchamel, 162–63 Gorgonzola, 214 Lemon and Oregano, 183 Meat, 91–92 nut, for pasta, simple, 112–13 Nut, for Spaghetti, AmalfiStyle, 113 Pesto for Bucatini, Neapolitan-Style, 112 Ragù Bolognese, 162–63 Salsa Verde, 213 Walnut, for Fettuccine, 112 see also tomato sauces sausage, 4, 5, 76, 170, 192 Bollito with Parsley Sauce, 212, 213 Calabrian Baked Pasta Casserole, 160–61 capocollo, 6
cotechino, 75–76 Cotechino and Lentils, 207 Pork Rolls with Pancetta and (or Escaped Birds), 210, 211 soppressata, 4–5 Spaghetti with Broccoli Rabe, Cream and, 137 Stuffed Calamari, 177 Tagliatelle with Pumpkin and Chestnuts, 134, 135–36 Scalici, Teresa (Sicily) Fried Ricotta Turnovers, 238, 239 Meat and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Eggplant, Asparagus, and Peas, My Prizewinning, 164, 165–66 Ravioli with Rabbit Filling, 154–55 Ricotta Gnocchi in Tomato Sauce, 94, 95–96 Salt Cod with Raisins, Tomatoes, and Olives, 178, 179 Sicilian-Style Salt Cod with Raisins, Tomatoes, and Olives, 178, 179 Spaghetti with Broccoli Rabe, Sausage, and Cream, 137 Stuffed Sardines, 34, 35 Sweet Manicotti, 240, 241 see also 223–28 Scallions, Sicilian Pizza with Mozzarella, Anchovies and, 148, 149 Scialatielli with Clams, Mussels, and Crab, 128, 129 seafood: Salad, Warm, 36, 37 see also antipasti; fish and seafood, pasta dishes with; fish courses
INDEX
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275
Sea Urchins, Spaghetti with, 121 Semolina Pasta Dough, 109, 135 sfincione, 251, 253 Sicilian Pizza with Mozzarella, Scallions, and Anchovies, 148, 149 shrimp: Fish Soup Palermo Style, 175 Lagane and Chickpeas with, 126 Risotto with Artichokes and, 89 Warm Seafood Salad, 36, 37 Smothered Cauliflower, 60, 61 Snails Palermo Style, 31 soppressata, 4–5 Calabrian Baked Pasta Casserole, 160 with Easter Bread, 256, 257 soups, 25–30 Crepes in Broth, 28, 29 Farro, with Pancetta and Sage, Abruzzo-Style, 30 Fish, Palermo Style, 175 Married, 25 Minestrone, Northern-Style, 26, 27 southern-style cooking, 191–92 spaghetti: Amalfi-Style Nut Sauce for, 113 with Broccoli Rabe, Sausage, and Cream, 137 with Potatoes and Cabbage, 120 with Sea Urchins, 121 Spinach Manicotti, 159 Spleen, Stuffed, 195 squid: Baby, Sautéed, 176 Fish Soup Palermo Style, 175 Sautéed Cuttlefish or Baby Squid, 176 Stuffed Calamari, 177 Warm Seafood Salad, 36, 37 see also calamari
276
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INDEX
starters, see antipasti stews: Beef, Italian, 200 Bollito with Parsley Sauce, 212, 213–14 Lamb, with Creamy Cheese Sauce, 215 Rabbit, My Nonna’s, 220, 221 stocco (dried cod): in Polenta with Dried Fish and Cauliflower, 82 strawberries: Risotto with, 87, 88 Sweet Manicotti, 240, 241 struffoli, 105 stuffed: Artichokes, 54, 55 Artichokes Braised in Tomato Sauce, Sicilian-Style, 52 Baked Peaches, 236, 237 Calamari, 177 Cardoons, Fried, 67 Dough Crescents, Fried, 147 Eggplant Palermo Style, 48, 49 Escarole, Braised, 62, 63 Hot Green Peppers, 14, 15 Peppers with Meat, Pine Nuts, and Raisins, 64, 65 Sardines, 34, 35 Spleen, 195 Swordfish Rolls, 184, 185 see also pastas, stuffed Sugo di Pomodoro, 95–96 Sweet-and-Sour Sauce, Calf ’s Liver in, 206 sweets: Blueberry Tart, 244–45 Chocolate Blood Pudding, 233 Chocolate Rice Crostata, 246, 247 Easter Wheat Pie, 260–61 Fig Cookies, 229–31, 230 Honey-Glazed Dough Balls, 232
Manicotti, Sweet, 240, 241 Peaches, Stuffed Baked, 236, 237 Pumpkin Cheesecake, 242, 243 Ricotta Turnovers, Fried, 238, 239 Sicilian Milk Pudding, 234, 235 Wheat Berry Pudding for St. Lucy’s Day, 259 Swordfish Rolls, Stuffed, 184, 185
T Tagliatelle with Pumpkin and Chestnuts, 134, 135–36 taralli, 253 tarts: Blueberry, 244–45 Chocolate Rice Crostata, 246, 247 tomato(es): canning, 104 Sauce, Sicilian-Style Stuffed Artichokes Braised in, 53 Sun-Dried, Filled with Anchovies and Capers, 14, 16 tomato sauces, 191 Basil, Fresh, 110 Cherry Tomato Pasta Sauce with Porcini, 110 with Eggplant, My Nonna’s, 111 with cured, aged pork sausage, 160 Meat Sauce, 91–92 Ragù Bolognese, 162–63 simple, for pasta, 110–11 Sugo di Pomodoro, 95–96 of Tomato “Fillets,” Neapolitan Style, 111 Tomato Sauce (recipe), 157
tuna: Fillets with Onions and Vinegar, Sicilian-Style, 182 Fresh Fettuccine with Eggplant, Mint and, 123 and Onion Pizza, 150, 151 Turano, Rosa (Veneto) Classic Polenta, 81 Cotechino and Lentils, 207 Fennel with Gorgonzola, 68, 69 Pappardelle with Porcini in Cream Sauce, 114, 115 Pasticcio with Béchamel and Bolognese Sauce, 162–63 Rabbit, My Nonna’s, 220, 221 Risotto with Radicchio, 85, 87 Roasted Veal Loin, 205 see also 74–80 Turnovers, Ricotta, Fried, 238, 239
V veal: Bollito with Parsley Sauce, 212, 213–14 Loin, Roasted, 205 Meatballs with Hard-Boiled Eggs Inside, 202, 203 Pasticcio with Béchamel and Bolognese Sauce, 162–63 Ragù Bolognese, 162–63 Stuffed Peppers with Meat, Pine Nuts, and Raisins, 64, 65 vegetable dishes, 41, 48–73 Artichoke Caponata, 57 Artichokes, Fried, 56 Artichokes, Sicilian-Style
Stuffed, Braised in Tomato Sauce, 53 Artichokes, Stuffed, 54, 55 Caponata, 52 Cardoons, Stuffed Fried, 67 Cauliflower, Smothered, 60, 61 Eggplant, Stuffed, Palermo Style, 48, 49 Eggplant with Chocolate, 50, 51 Escarole, Braised Stuffed, 62, 63 Fennel with Gorgonzola, 68, 69 Peppers Stuffed with Meat, Pine Nuts, and Raisins, 64, 65 Potato Pie, Neapolitan, 58, 59 Red Peppers, Roasted, with Breadcrumbs and Olives, 66 Vegetable Fritters with Two Batters, 70, 71–72 Vegetable Ricotta Cups, 73 Vigilia, La, 254 Vigorito, Rosaria (Abruzzo) Abruzzo-Style Farro Soup with Pancetta and Sage, 30 Blueberry Tart, 244–45 Crepes in Broth, 28, 29 Lamb Stew with Creamy Cheese Sauce, 215 Onion and Tuna Pizza, 150, 151 Rack of Lamb with Tomatoes and Potatoes, 216, 217 Semolina Pasta Dough, 109, 135
Stuffed Fried Dough Crescents, 147 see also 99–106
W walnut(s): Amalfi-Style Nut Sauce for Spaghetti, 113 Fig Cookies, 229–31, 230 Pappardelle with Salmon, Zucchini and, 124, 125 Pasticcio with Penne with Radicchio, Gorgonzola and, 116, 117 Sauce for Fettuccine, 112 wheat berry(ies): Easter Wheat Pie, 260–61 Pudding for St. Lucy’s Day, 259 Wheat Pie, Easter, 260–61 white kidney beans, see cannellini beans
Z ziti: Calabrian Baked Pasta Casserole, 160–61 with Fresh Sardines, Fennel, and Breadcrumbs, 122 zucchini: Northern-Style Minestrone, 26, 27 Pappardelle with Salmon, Walnuts and, 124, 125 Scialatielli with Clams, Mussels, and Crab, 128, 129 Vegetable Fritters with Two Batters, 70, 71–72 Vegetable Ricotta Cups, 73
INDEX
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27 7