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TECHNICAL MANUAL

ASPhair.com


“Our philosophy is simple: to use knowledge, innovation, creativity and technology to create superior, safe, leading edge products for the professional haircare industry.�

ASP USA Vista, California

Technical Manual


ASP

In 1996 International Hair Cosmetics Ltd. UK conceived, created and launched the premium hair care brand ASP. Originated as a line of permanent hair colour, the ASP brand grew rapidly to include tone on tone and fashion colours, permanent waves, specialist highlighting systems, bleaching powders, shampoos, conditioners and styling products that have been enthusiastically embraced by consumers and the hairdressing industry worldwide. Today, ASP is sold in over 50 countries - across Europe, Africa, the United States, South America, and the Asia Pacific.The ASP brand is marketed globally by International Hair Cosmetics Ltd. UK and through it’s ASP Salon Professional group of companies in the USA and Australia. Distribution is achieved through a worldwide network of wholesalers and specialist distributors. In 2004 the UK Company’s Research and Development Laboratory in Italy used it’s revolutionary DATEM™ Technology to create Kitoko - the world’s most advanced hair colour. Today, the team headed by Dott. Nicola Summer continue to break new ground in the development exciting, industry leading hair products that will further strengthen ASP’s reputation as one of the fastest growing haircare companies in the world. This growth is spearheaded by the twin aims of unrivaled product innovation and quality, supported by comprehensive training and education systems.

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4 ASP Australia

Sydney, NSW, AUS

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Index

Index DATEM™ TECHNOLOGY

5

Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème

6

Why Use Kitoko?

6

Skin Test Method

7

Kitoko Numbering System

8

Client Consultation & Colour Selection

9

Retouch Application

9

White Hair Coverage

9

9

Extra Coverage with Natural Ash Shades (.01)

Lifting Power of Kitoko

10

ASP Crème Developer / Mixing Quantities

10

Application Method

11

First Time Application to Darken

12

First Time Application to Lighten

12

Processing Times

13

Kitoko High Lift Arctic Blonde 12. Series

13

High Lift Booster 12.0s

15

Kitoko 3.66 - New Formula Statement

15

Kitoko Shade Guide

16

Kitoko Gothic Collection Permanent Hair Colour Créme

20

Kitoko Satin Ammonia Free Tone On Tone Colour

21

23

Intensives Colour Crème

24

bRED Colour Highlighting Crème

26

HotShotz True Semi-Permanent

28

Spectrum Highlighting & Toning System

29

Blonde Ammonia Free Lightening System

31

Ice Créme Ammonia Free Powder Lightener

32

Lite High Performance Powder Bleach

33

Converter Converts Permanent Colour to Tone On Tone Effect

34

35

Eraser Colour Removal System

36

ASP COLOUR WHEEL

38

Kitoko Satin Shade Guide

Kitoko Instant Pre-Pigmentation Spray & Gel

Technical Manual


DATEM™ Technology

OXYGEN ENCAPSULATED = LESS FREE RADICALS LESS FREE RADICALS = REDUCED CUTICLE DAMAGE

DATEM™ is a revolution in hair colour technology and is unique to ASP. This groundbreaking technology makes ASP colour products kinder, faster (by allowing the use of heat without damaging the hair or scalp) and more effective.

DATEM™ Technology at Work DATEM™ encapsulates the oxygen, reducing the action of the free radicals. The encapsulated oxygen is transported into the cortex of the hair by gently separating the bonds between the keratin chains. Once there the oxygen is released and the lifting process and deposit of the permanent pigment begins. When DATEM™ is used in HotShotz, where no oxidisation occurs, it allows much deeper penetration of the pigment and the conditioning base. This results in a longer lasting colour and a superior finish to the hair. DATEM™ can be found in the following products: Kitoko • Kitoko Satin • Intensives • bRED • HotShotz • Spectrum Blonde • Eraser

Free Radicals In chemistry, radicals (often referred to as free radicals) are atomic or molecular species with unpaired electrons which can be created in many different ways (UV rays, pollution, intense sunlight, oxygen processes). They are very reactive and cause damage to the chemical compounds in our body (i.e. proteins, DNA). And when we are working with oxidation-based products it causes damage to the cuticle and scalp. DATEM™ in our products encapsulates the oxygen and releases it inside the hair thus drastically reducing the creation of free radicals.

Dott. Nicola Summer ASP R&D Laboratory, Bologna, Italy

Oxygen encapsulated / controlled by DATEM™ DATEM™ in contact with Keratin DATEM™ releasing oxygen to allow lightening Free oxygen

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Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème

OXYGEN ENCAPSULATED = LESS FREE RADICALS LESS FREE RADICALS = REDUCED CUTICLE DAMAGE

The World’s Most Advanced Permanent Hair Colour Créme with DATEM™ Technology. Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Créme uses our unique DATEM™ Technology to penetrate deeper and faster into the hair shaft with significantly less damage to the cuticle. The pH level steadily decreases throughout the colour process, locking in the colour molecule to give intense, long lasting results and 100% grey coverage in just 25 minutes (with heat). Kitoko’s ultra-low ammonia content and emulsion créme base reduce the risk of sensitivity, whilst the incredible lift action allows the use of much lower volumes of developer. Kitoko’s gentle formulation with UV filters and Protein Protectors ensures that the hair is left in beautiful condition, producing clean blondes, vibrant reds, or soft natural tones.

Why use Kitoko? 1.

Formulated Using DATEM™ Technology for Maximum Coverage Of White Hair

2.

DATEM™ Technology Allows Fast Processing - 25 Minutes With Gentle Heat

3.

Resistance To Fade

The exceptional covering power of Kitoko is due to DATEM™ Technology and the specially formulated Emulsion Base. The special Kitoko base with DATEM™ Technology, moisturises the hair and penetrates deep into the cortex, taking with it the colour molecules. This ensures 100% coverage of white hair and maintains the strength of the hair structure.

DATEM™ Technology is unique in the way it allows the use of gentle heat to accelerate the colouring process with no damage to hair or scalp. The use of gentle heat is even recommended when using 9%(30vol) and 12%(40vol) Créme Developer with 12. series (high lift Arctic blondes). 30 minute processing time. The use of heat will not compromise the result or lasting power of our products. Do not cover whilst processing.

Whether natural or fashion colours are required, it is important they do not fade between applications. One of the main causes of changes in colour is the exposure to air and light. Oxygen in the hair creates creeping oxidation.

Technical Manual


Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème

Fade also occurs because light contains ultra violet radiation. This can cause fading by ‘bleaching’ the colour out of the hair. Due to DATEM™ Technology, Kitoko will penetrate deeper into the cortex without causing damage to the cuticle layer. This will prevent the new colour from fading. Kitoko also contains UV filters which reduce harmful rays and special buffers to control creeping oxidation, producing longer lasting colour results.

4.

Low Levels of Ammonia and Reducing pH

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Very low levels of ammonia are made possible due to the inclusion of DATEM™ Technology. The reducing pH of Kitoko results in long lasting, shiny results. Buffering agents in the emulsion créme base counter the negative effects of strong alkalinity and control the pH during processing. When mixed, the ammonia levels of Kitoko are lower due to dilution with Créme Developer. See table below: Shades

Ammonia Levels - Unmixed

Ammonia Levels - Mixed with Créme Developer

1. - 10. Series

0.5% - 2.3% (Highest in 10. Series)

0.2% - 0.9%

12. Series

3.2%

1.06%

5.

Lift Action

When darkening or covering white, (or colouring on the same level) 3%(10vol) SHOULD BE USED.

6.

Mixing and Application

7.

Kitoko Colour Crème

8.

Health and Safety

A permanent hair colour must have good lifting power in order for the colour result to be even: permanent hair colour first lifts some of the natural pigment before depositing new colour. Even black must first lift the natural pigment before depositing colour. Kitoko HAS THE RIGHT BALANCE. Kitoko WILL LIFT HIGHER WITH 6%(20vol) THAN MANY OF ITS COMPETITORS USING 9%(30vol).

Kitoko mixes easily to a smooth crème consistency. When mixed, Kitoko has the right consistency to allow the product to stay where it is needed and to allow the product to spread easily. Always ensure you measure the correct quantities of colour and Créme Developer for perfect results. Weigh Kitoko using the ASP Electronic Balance for most accurate results.

Kitoko has been formulated to create a colour to meet the demands of the professional hairdresser. Kitoko is produced by professionals for professionals and their clients.

Kitoko uses the safest possible ingredients to meet the strict Health and Safety guidelines of the hairdressing world.

Important Note - for Professional Use Only. It is recommended to always wear protective gloves when using any chemical product. Colour products can occasionally cause an allergic reaction and a prior skin test is always advisable when permanent hair (or tone on tone) colour is to be used. Do not use to dye eyelashes or eyebrows. Rinse immediately if product comes into contact with the eyes. If irritation persists, seek medical advice.

ASP Skin Test Method ASP recommend a skin test before every colour application. Mix small amount of chosen shade with appropriate developer to be used on client. Apply to forearm or behind ear. Leave for 45 minutes, rinse. Look for reaction after 24 and 48 hours. If any irritation or reaction occurs do not apply colour.

Skin Test Procedure The references given demonstrate conditions, applications and examples of use of the techniques according to the COLIPA* guidelines. Whilst some of the references concern finished products, they are equally applicable to the testing of cosmetic ingredients. Exposure times and concentrations are presented only as illustrations.

ASPhair.com


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Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème

Single Application Open Epicutaneous Test Devices:

glass sticks, swab or cellulose paper

Test site:

inner forearm

Frequency of application:

once for solid or viscous materials (i.e. hair colour); for liquid materials, repeated applications every 30 seconds may be made to maintain exposure of the application site

Duration of treatment:

30 minutes (or 15 - 60 minutes depending on the aim of the study)

Removal of test substance:

by rinsing or gentle swabbing

Time(s) of assessment:

immediately record time when effect(s) first occur(s) immediately after completion of application period and again after 24 & 48 hours

Parameters:

erythema, oedema, scaling, adverse sensation(s) noted by participant

Grading:

zero, weak, moderate, strong

Evaluation:

number of subjects with effect(s) within defined time period, or occurrence of first response

NB. When skin testing: always test using the same shade and developer that is to be applied.

* COLIPA is the European Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association, established in1962.

Its objectives are:

• To provide expertise and support to a range of working groups dealing in scientific, economic, fiscal, legal, consumer and environmental issues. • To assist members in complying with European Union legislation affecting cosmetic industry products and operations. • To act as an industry voice working with both international authorities and organisations. Additionally, COLIPA provides a worldwide perspective to its members through its relationships with equivalent organisations in the USA and Japan. • To serve as a communication and information centre for the European cosmetic industry, Strengthening the industry’s position through continuous interaction with its members.

Kitoko Numbering System The Kitoko numbering system follows the International Colour Code (I.C.C.) allowing the colourist to identify each colour, depth and tone. In the I.C.C. the number before the point indicates the depth (how light or dark). The number after the point indicates the primary tone that is added to the shade. The second number indicates the secondary tone which subdues or enhances the primary tone. The third number (where applicable) is the tertiary tone which again can enhance or subdue the other tones. For example: When using the shade 6.652 - .6 is the primary tone, .5 is the secondary tone and .2 would be described as the tertiary tone (pronounced ter·ti·ary). Tertiary means third in line. Kitoko DEPTHS

Kitoko TONES

12 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Very Light Extra blonde Extra Light Blonde Very Light Blonde Light Blonde Medium Blonde Dark Blonde Light Brown Medium Brown Dark Brown Very Dark Brown Black

Technical Manual

Natural Green Ash Violet Ash Gold Copper Mahogany Red Blue


Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème

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Examples 8.43 - Base 8. + Copper 4 + Gold 3 = Light Copper Gold Blonde 10.32 - Base 10. + Gold 3 + Violet 2 = Light Sand Beige Blonde 6.036 – Base 6. + Natural 0 + Gold 3 + Red 6 = Dark Natural Gold Red Blonde (Dark Chocolate)

Client Consultation and Colour Selection • Identify the natural depth and percentage of white hair. • Determine if the hair has had any previous chemical services. • Select the target shade. • Examine hair condition and porosity. • Evaluate the lifting power of the chosen shade. • Choose the correct shade and developer strength to be applied. • Use the correct processing time.

The 70% Rule The swatches in the Kitoko shade guide are based on 70% white hair. To achieve the target shade, please follow the 70% rule below. A) Where there is 70% white hair, select the target shade. ie to achieve a 6.0 apply a 6.0 B) Where there is more than 70% white hair, select one shade darker than the target shade. ie to achieve a 6.0 apply a 5.0 C) Where there is less than 70% white hair, select one shade lighter than the target shade. ie to achieve an 6.0 apply a 7.0

Important - Retouch Application Colour Selection Please note that the heat from the scalp will cause lift. For this reason you should follow these Colour Selection rules: • When colouring tone on tone or darkening - If less than 70% white hair is present, choose target shade. Use 3%(10vol) Créme Developer. • When colouring tone on tone or darkening - If more than 70% white hair is present, choose one shade darker. Use 3%(10vol) Créme Developer. • When lightening - Choose target shade and correct developer strength (use the ‘level of lift’ guide)

White Hair Coverage Kitoko will cover 100% white hair. The fashion shades in Kitoko do not require the addition of base colours to cover white hair.

Extra Coverage with Natural Ash Shades (.01) These special shades are developed for covering resistant white hair. The .01 (Natural Ash) shades are a combination of Natural (.0) and Ash (.1) tones. When a high percentage of white or resistant white hair is present, this combination helps to increase the covering capability whilst retaining the tone of the chosen shade.


/10 Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème

In the past, colourists have mixed 50% of natural tones with other shades in order to guarantee the coverage of white hair. This practice meant that if the target shade was a cool or ash shade, the addition of a Natural shade added warmth to the colour, thereby losing the desired cool ash shade. If the target shade was a warm shade ie Red or Copper, the addition of a Natural shade would decrease the intensity. The Kitoko Natural Ash .01 tones can be added to any shade including Red or Coppers in concentrations of up to 25% to guarantee coverage of white hair whilst retaining the desired tone. e.g. ¾ of target shade to ¼ of corresponding .01 shade. These .01 tones may be used alone for a Natural-Ash result if required.

Intense Mix - To increase coverage on coarse, very difficult to cover white hair, it is recommended that you mix Kitoko in a ratio of 1 part colour to 1 part developer. N.B. It may be necessary to select a lighter shade as this mix will give greater deposit and result may appear to be deeper.

Application To Pre-Washed Towel Dried Hair. Shampooing prior to application will help the penetration on coarse hair/resistant white hair.

Lifting Power of Kitoko Kitoko is formulated to enable the use of lower volumes of developer, maintaining the hair’s strength whilst still attaining perfect results. 3%(10vol) should be used for: covering white hair, increasing colour depth, darkening and colouring on the same level. Lift action is built into Kitoko so greater lift can be achieved using lower volumes of developer. Using 6%(20vol) ASP Crème Developer, the lift power is as follows:

• When using 1.0 Black or 2.0 Very dark brown this will give ½ a level of lift. • When using 3.0 Dark brown or 4.0 Medium brown this will give 1 level of lift. • When using 5.0 Light brown or 6.0 Dark blonde this will give 1 to 2 levels of lift. • When using 7.0 Medium blonde to 10.0 Very light blonde this will give 2 to 3 levels of lift.

These levels of lift apply to all shades in the equivalent depth, i.e. 5.0 and 5.35 will both give 1 to 2 Levels of lift using 6%(20vol). The lift action for all shades is displayed vertically on the Shade Guide next to the base shades. When using 9%(30vol) ASP Crème Developer, the lifting power is increased by a half to one level over that of 6%(20vol).

ASP Crème Developer ASP Crème Developer is a highly stable solution in 4 strengths - 3%(10vol), 6%(20vol), 9%(30vol) and 12%(40vol). Using ASP Crème Developer ensures easy mixing, correct results and long lasting colour. Using other peroxides/developers can result in weak colour results and colour fade. ASP can only guarantee results when ASP Crème Developer is used. The chart below shows the levels of lift that can be achieved using Kitoko with ASP Crème Developers.

SHADE DEPTHS

LEVELS OF LIFT

1, 2

1/2

3, 4

1

5, 6

1-2

7, 8, 9, 10

2-3

• For covering white hair, increasing colour depth and darkening: • For up to 3 Levels of Lift depending on Kitoko shade used: • When 1 extra level of lift is required: • For up to 5 levels of lift with Arctic Blondes (12. Series):

Technical Manual

use 3%(10vol) pH2.95 use 6%(20vol) pH2.9 use 9%(30vol) pH2.85 use 12%(40vol) pH2.8


Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème

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Remember Base your shade selection on the percentage of white hair present. The correct developer choice is based on the levels of lift required. When no lift is required always use 3%(10vol). See table below: Natural Base

%White

Target

Colour To Use

Levels of Lift

Créme Developer

5

70%

7.4

7.4

0

3%(10vol)

5

0%

7.4

8.4

2

6%(20vol)

4

0%

7.4

8.4

3

6%(20vol)

1

0%

2.0

3.1 (add .01 Intensives)

1

6%(20vol)

3

0%

7.4

8.4

4

9%(30vol)

Mixing Quantities The mix ratio of Kitoko to Crème Developer is 1 part colour to 1.5 (1½ ) parts Crème Developer for all shades except 12 series, which are mixed 1 part colour to 2 parts Crème Developer. See table below for examples: Kitoko Crème

Mixed With

Crème Developer

Total Mix Quantities

10g/0.33oz

+

15g/0.51oz

25g/0.84oz

20g/0.67oz

+

30g/1.01oz

50g/1.69oz

30g/1.01oz

+

45g/1.52oz

75g/2.53oz

40g/1.35oz

+

60g/2.03oz

100g/3.38oz

50g/1.69oz

+

75g/2.53oz

125g/4.4oz

60g/2.03oz

+

90g/3.04oz

150g/5.07oz

Kitoko 12 Series High Lift Arctic Blondes

Mixed With

Crème Developer 9% / 12%

Total Mix Quantities

100g/3.38oz

+

200g/6.76oz

300g/10.6oz

75g/2.53oz

+

150g/5.07oz

225g/7.93oz

50g/1.69oz

+

100g/3.38oz

150g/5.07oz

25g/0.84oz

+

50g/1.69oz

75g/2.53oz

Application Method When using Kitoko the correct quantity of product must be applied onto the hair. Too little product will mean insufficient lift, low colour deposit and poor coverage resulting in fade. By applying the correct quantity, the product will penetrate the hair shaft, reaching the keratin chains and produce the lifting and deposit action. Applications can be made on dry or pre-washed, towel dried hair. Some resistant white hair will accept colour better if the hair is pre-washed and towel dried. This method is also advisable when the hair is resistant to colour. Divide hair into 4 sections: from centre of forehead to nape of the neck and from ear to ear. Start from area where the percentage of white hair is highest. Apply product to thin sections taking care not to overlap previously coloured hair. When application is completed, the product must be clearly visible on the hair. When using High Lift Blondes remember to take very fine sections of hair and apply twice as much product than usual. When mixing colour using a tint brush, please use a clean brush for application to the hair.

Remember Insufficient product and/or bad application is a common cause of poor results.

ASPhair.com


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First Time Application To Darken LEVELS 1 - 10 (MIXING RATIO: 1 part Kitoko to 1.5 parts ASP Crème Developer) Apply to mid lengths and ends (Fig.1), avoiding the root area and process for 5 minutes (No Heat). Do not cover during processing.

Apply to the root area (Fig.2) and process for a further 40 minutes - no heat. OR 20 minutes - gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F) Do not cover during processing.

Fig.1

Fig.2

Removal At the end of the processing time, without adding water, emulsify colour around hairline to remove any stains, then add a small amount of water and continue to emulsify the remaining colour. Rinse until the water runs clear, shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner. Total Processing Time: 45 minutes - no heat OR 25 minutes - gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F)

First Time Application To Lighten This method of application should be used with any shade where the objective is to lighten the natural colour.

Processing: Without Heat - Do not cover during processing. Apply to the mid lengths and ends (Fig.1), leaving 3 - 4cm at the root untouched. Process for 20 minutes Apply the remaining product to the roots (Fig.2) and process for a further 25 Total processing time 45 minutes

Processing: With Gentle Heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F) Do not cover during processing. Apply to the mid lengths and ends (Fig.1), leaving 3 - 4cm at the root untouched. Process for 5 minutes. Apply the remaining product to the roots (Fig.2) and process for a further 20 minutes Total processing time 25 minutes SEE REMOVAL ABOVE

Retouch Application: Without Heat

- Do not cover during processing. Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair. Do not mix fresh colour for the application to mid lengths and ends. Apply to the regrowth only. Process for 40 minutes. Using the same mix, apply to the mid lengths and ends and process for a further 5 minutes. Total processing time 45 minutes

Retouch Application: With Gentle Heat - (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F) Do not cover during processing. Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair. Do not mix fresh colour for the application to mid lengths and ends. Apply to the regrowth only. Process for 20 minutes. Using the same mix, apply to the mid lengths and ends and process for a further 5 minutes WITHOUT HEAT Total processing time 25 minutes SEE REMOVAL ABOVE

Mixing Mix Kitoko 1 -10 series in a non-metallic bowl or applicator with ASP Crème Developer to the ratio of 1 part colour to 1.5 parts developer, e.g. 100g/3.8oz of Kitoko Colour Crème + 150g/5.07oz of ASP Crème Developer.

Technical Manual


Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème

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Important - Retouch Application Colour Selection Please note that the heat from the scalp will cause lift. For this reason you should follow these Colour Selection rules: • When colouring tone on tone or darkening - If less than 70% white hair is present, choose target shade. Use 3%(10vol) developer. • When colouring tone on tone or darkening - If more than 70% white hair is present, choose one shade darker. Use 3%(10vol) developer. • When lightening - Choose target shade and correct developer strength (use the ‘level of lift’ guide)

Processing Times - Do not cover during processing. When working with permanent hair colour it is important to use the recommended processing time. This will ensure the best possible colour result. If these are not used poor results may occur. The recommended processing time for Kitoko crème colour is 45 minutes with no heat or 25 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F). During this time two different actions are taking place - 1. Lift Action and 2. Colour Deposit. When using no heat: the lift action is 30 minutes. Also during this period the colour slowly starts to develop. Colour molecules begin to increase in size. The full colour deposit happens in the final 15 minutes. During this period the colour fully develops and the molecules reach their optimum size. Total time: 45 minutes. When using gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F): the lift action is 15 minutes and the colour deposit is the final 10 minutes. Total time: 25 minutes.

Correct Processing Times

45 MINUTES - NO HEAT

25 MINUTES - GENTLE HEAT (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F)

High Lift Arctic Blonde 12. Series MIXING RATIO: 1 PART Kitoko HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES to 2 PARTS ASP CRÈME DEVELOPER - 9%(30vol) or 12%(40vol) The Kitoko High Lift Arctic Blonde 12. series is a range of very effective, extra light blonde shades giving 4 - 5 levels of lift. The unique formulation with DATEM™ Technology ensures long lasting even results leaving the hair in perfect condition.

High Lift Arctic Blondes:

12.0 High lift Arctic light blonde 12.0s High Lift Booster 12.1 High lift Arctic Light Ash Blonde 12.2 High lift Arctic Pearl Blonde 12.23 High lift Arctic Beige Blonde

Mixing (High Lift) Mix Kitoko in a non-metallic bowl or applicator with ASP Crème Developer 9%(30vol) or 12%(40vol) to the ratio of 1 part colour to 2 parts developer, e.g. 100g/3.38oz of Kitoko High Lift Arctic Blonde + 200g/6.76oz of ASP Crème Developer.


/14 Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème

Processing Times:

Do not cover during processing. When working with permanent hair colour it is important to use the recommended processing time. This will ensure the best possible colour result. If these are not used poor results may occur. The recommended processing time for Kitoko High Lift Arctic Blonde 12 Series is 55 to 60 minutes with no heat (60 minutes for maximum tone deposit) or 30 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F). During this time two different actions are taking place - 1. Lift Action and 2. Colour Deposit. When using no heat: the lift action is 45 minutes. Also during this period the colour slowly starts to develop. Colour molecules begin to increase in size. The colour deposit happens in the final 10 - 15 minutes. During this period the colour fully develops and the molecules reach their optimum size. Total time: 55 - 60 minutes. When using gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F) the lift action is 25 minutes and the colour deposit is the final 5 minutes. Total time: 30 minutes. The processing time of High Lift Arctic Blonde 12. Series is:

colour deposit

55 - 60 MINUTES - NO HEAT

30 MINUTES - GENTLE HEAT (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F)

Virgin Head Application: Without Heat (hair up to 25cm) HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing. Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair. Apply product to the lengths and ends leaving approx 3 - 4cm of the root hair untouched. Wait until the desired lift is reached (approx. 20 minutes), then apply colour to the roots. Process until the desired lift is reached (35 - 40 minutes) Total processing time 55 - 60 minutes

Virgin Head Application: With Heat (hair up to 25cm) HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing. Mix enough product to allow application to whole head of hair. Apply product to the lengths and ends leaving approx 3-4cm of the root hair untouched. Process for 10 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F) then apply colour to the roots. Process for 20 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F). Total processing time 30 minutes

Virgin Head Application: Without Heat (hair longer than 25cm) HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing. Apply colour first to the ends (5 - 6cm). Process for 20 minutes. Remix fresh colour and then apply to the mid lengths for 20 minutes. Finally, Remix fresh colour and apply to the root area until the desired shade is reached (approx. 20 minutes). Total processing time 60 minutes

Virgin Head Application: With Heat (hair longer than 25cm) HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing. Apply colour first to the ends (5 - 6cm). Process for 5 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F). Remix fresh colour and then apply to the mid lengths for 5 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F). Finally, Remix fresh colour and apply to the root area until the desired shade is reached approx 20 minutes (gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F). Total processing time 30 minutes

Technical Manual


Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème

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At the end of the processing time add a small amount of water and emulsify the colour. Rinse until the water runs clear, shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

Application For Regrowth Application: Without Heat HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing. Apply colour to the REGROWTH AREA ONLY. DO NOT OVERLAP onto the middle lengths or ends. Process for 55 - 60 minutes. At the end of the processing time add a small amount of water and emulsify the colour. Rinse until the water runs clear, shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

Application For Regrowth Application: With Heat HIGH LIFT ARCTIC BLONDE 12. SERIES - Do not cover during processing. Apply colour to the REGROWTH AREA ONLY. DO NOT OVERLAP onto the middle lengths or ends. Process for 30 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F) At the end of the processing time add a small amount of water and emulsify the colour. Rinse until the water runs clear, shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

Application To White Hair: 12. SERIES Where more than 25% white hair is present: 12.1, 12.23 or 12.2 should be mixed with 12.0 or 12.0s in equal amounts to prevent unwanted ash tones, e.g. 50g/1.69oz of 12.1 + 50g/ 1.69oz of 12.0s + 200g/6.7oz of ASP Crème Developer.

High Lift Booster 12.0s 12.0s

May be used to INCREASE the lift of High Lift Arctic Blondes by up to 1 shade, by adding 25% of 12.0s, without affecting the tonal value. E.g. 75g/2.53oz 12.1 + 25g/0.84oz 12.0s + 200g/6.76oz ASP Crème Developer.

12.0s

Will give 1 - 2 levels of lift when used on its own with ASP Crème Developer 9%(30vol) 1 - 2 mix. E.g. 25g/0.84oz of 12.0s - 50g/1.7oz of ASP Crème Developer 9%(30vol)

Kitoko 3.66 - New Formula Market demands have lead to a reformulated 3.66 for increased red tones and extra vibrancy.

Hints & Tips for use A) On very light natural hair, or on 70% - 100% white hair, we recommend that 3.66 should be mixed with 3.0 in the ratio 3 parts 3.66 to 1 part 3.0 and mix with 3%(10vol) ASP Créme Developer B) On a natural base 6 and darker with up to 50% grey, 3.66 alone with 3%(10vol) will give an excellent result. C) Fashion Hint - a feature of this stunning shade is that on a dark natural base you can pre-lighten slices and then apply 3.66 to the whole head to give a deep and intense 3.66 result but with strong vibrant red slices.

ASPhair.com


/16 Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème .00

0

5.

Light Brown

4.

Medium Brown

3.

Dark Brown

2.

Extra Dark Brown

1.

40 Vol (12%)

Very Light Blonde

Extra Natural Very light Blonde

Natural Very Light Ash Blonde

8.00

8.01

Light Blonde

20 Volume (6%)

9.01

Extra Natural Light Blonde

Natural Light Ash Blonde

7.0

7.00

7.01

Medium Blonde

Extra Natural Medium Blonde

Natural Medium Ash Blonde

6.0

6.00

6.01

Dark Blonde

5.0 Light Brown

20 Volume (6%)

Dark Blonde

9.00

Extra Natural Dark Blonde

5.00 Mix 1/2 6.00 1/2 4.00

Natural Dark Ash Blonde

5.01 Natural Light Ash Brown

4.0

4.00

4.01

Medium Brown

Extra Natural Medium Brown

Natural Medium Ash Brown

3.0

20 Volume (6%)

6.

High Lift Arctic Light Ash Blonde

9.0

20 Volume (6%)

7.

Medium Blonde

High Lift Booster

Extra Light Cool Ash Blonde

8.0

Dark Brown

2.0 Very Dark Brown

1.0 Black

Black

Technical Manual

.1

Green Ash

12.1

Extra Light Natural Blonde

2 TO 3 Shades Lift

8.

Light Blonde

12.0s

10.21

1 TO 2 Shades Lift

9.

Very Light blonde

.01 .21

Natural Ash Tone

10.0

1 Shades Lift

10.

Extra Light Blonde

High Lift Arctic Light Blonde

1/2 Shades Lift

12.

Super Light Blonde

12.0

Extra Natural

4 TO 5 Shades Lift

Natural Tones

10.1 Extra Light Ash Blonde

9.1 Very Light Ash Blonde

8.1 Mix 1/2 9.1 1/2 7.1

7.1 Medium Ash Blonde

6.1 Mix 3/4 6.0 1/4 Intensives 0.1


Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème .2 Violet Ash

12.

Super Light Blonde

10.

Extra Light Blonde

9.

Very Light blonde

8.

Light Blonde

7.

Medium Blonde

6.

Dark Blonde

12.2 High Lift Arctic Pearl Blonde

High Lift Arctic Beige Blonde

Mix 1/2 12.0s 1/2 10.3

Extra Light Pear Blonde

Extra Light Sand Beige Blonde

Extra Light Golden Blonde

Very Light Violet Blonde

8.2 Light Violet Blonde

7.2 Medium Violet Blonde

6.2 Dark Violet Blonde

9.23 Very Light Pearl Beige blonde

8.32 Light Sandy Beige Blonde

7.23 Medium Pearl Beige Blonde

.34 .43 Gold Copper Copper Gold

12.33

10.3

10.34 Mix 1/2 9.34 1/2 10.3

9.3

9.33

9.34

Very light Golden Blonde

Very Light Intensive Golden Blonde

Very Light Copper Golden Blonde

8.3

8.33

8.43

Light Golden Blonde

Light Intensive Golden Blonde

7.3

7.33

Medium Golden Blonde

6.3 Dark Golden Blonde

Mix 1/2 8.33 1/2 6.33

Light Copper Golden Blonde

7.43 Medium Copper Golden Blonde

6.33 Dark Intensives Golden Blonde

5.3

5.

4.

12.23

10.32

9.2

.33 Intensives Gold

.3 Gold

10.2

Light Golden Brown

Light Brown

Medium Brown

.23 .32 Beige

/17

4.2 Medium Violet Brown

4.3 Mix 1/2 5.3 1/2 4.00

3.

2.

Extra Dark Brown

1.

Black

2.2 Deep Violet Brown

The colours indicated in this guide are a representation only.

Dark Brown


/18 Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème .4 Copper

.45 Copper Mahogany

.46 Copper Red

.53 Mahogany Gold

.5 .52 Mahogany Mahogany Violet

12.

Super Light Blonde

10.

Extra Light Blonde

9.

Very Light blonde

8.

Light Blonde

7.

Medium Blonde

6.

Dark Blonde

5.

Light Brown

9.4 Mix 1/2 9.0 1/2 8.4

8.4

8.52

Light Copper Blonde

Light Mahogany Violet Blonde

7.4

7.46

7.5

Medium Copper Blonde

Medium Ruby Red

Medium Mahogany Blonde

6.45

6.46

6.5

Dark Copper Mahogany Blonde

Dark Ruby Red

6.4 Dark Copper Blonde

5.4

5.46

Light Copper Brown

Ruby Red

Mix 1/2 7.5 1/2 5.5

5.53 Mix 3/4 5.5 1/4 5.3

5.5 Light Mahogany Brown

4.53

4.

Medium Mahogany Golden Brown

Medium Brown

3.

Dark Brown

6.652

7.336

8.335

8.465

9.325

Red Pepper

All Spice

Nutmeg

Paprika

Cinnamon

Technical Manual


Kitoko Permanent Hair Colour Crème .35

.6 .7

Gold Mahogany

Red Blue

.63 .64 .65

/19

.66

Red Gold, Red Copper, Red Mahogany

Intensive Red

12.

Super Light Blonde

.035 .036

10.

Extra Light Blonde

9.

Very Light blonde

8.

Light Blonde

7.

Medium Blonde

6.

Dark Blonde

5.

Light Brown

4.

Medium Brown

9.35

9.035

Very Light Golden Mahogany Blonde

Caffe Latte

8.35

8.035

Light Golden Mahogany Blonde

Cappuccino

7.35 Medium Golden Mahogany Blonde

6.35 Dark Golden Mahogany Blonde

5.35 Light Golden Mahogany Brown

7.6 Cherry

6.6 Mix 1/4 7.6 1/2 5.6

7.64

7.036

Medium Flame Red Blonde

Milk Chocolate

6.64 Dark Flame Red Blonde

6.66 Fire Red

6.036 Dark Chocolate

1/4 Intensives 0.6

5.6 Rouge Red

5.63 Sherry Red

4.6

4.65

Veronese Red

Beaujolais

5.66 Claret

5.036 Coffee

4.036 CafĂŠ Noir

3.66

3.

Burgundy

The colours indicated in this guide are a representation only.

Dark Brown

2.

Extra Dark Brown

1.

Black

1.7 Blue Black

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/20 The Gothic Collection

OXYGEN ENCAPSULATED = LESS FREE RADICALS LESS FREE RADICALS = REDUCED CUTICLE DAMAGE

Kitoko Gothic Collection For Colour Deposit Only - No Lift Action The Kitoko Gothic Collection is an innovative range of 5 permanent grey and black shades, from pure platinum to deepest black. The Gothic Collection is designed to be used with 3%(10vol) ASP Crème Developer. The grey shades are formulated for use on natural white/grey hair where no lift is required. This non-lifting range solely deposits colour. Gothic Black 1.117 has been created to give the deepest fashion effects on all hair colours. The grey shades within this collection may also be used on any pre-lightened white hair to give high fashion effects/grey shades. Mix as stated below. Use full recommended processing times.

Mixing 1 part Gothic shade to 1.5 parts 3%(10vol) ASP Crème Developer, e.g. 50g/1.7g of Gothic shade to 75g/2.53oz of ASP Crème Developer 3%(10vol).

Processing Time 45 minutes on natural white/grey hair (no heat). 25 minutes (gentle heat 40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F).

Hints and Tips 1. To achieve ‘Salt and Pepper’ low lights, use 4.117 and/or 6.117 on natural white hair. Because the traditional method of using natural colours with added ash for this effect sometimes results in the colour turning ‘warm’ after several weeks in the hair, the Gothic Collection 4.117 and 6.117 are the ideal choice. 2. Converter is ideal for use with the Gothic Collection but may result in a slightly less strong colour result (Mix: 1 part Gothic shade to 2 parts Converter). 3. The Gothic Collection is also intermixable with Kitoko Natural shades (.0) to create very cold flat natural colours (ideal for men).

1.117

4.117

6.117

9.117

Gothic Black

Anthracite

Onyx

Silver

10.117 Platinum

The colours indicated in this guide are a representation only.

Technical Manual


Coming 2011

Kitoko Satin Ammonia Free Tone On Tone Colour

/21

OXYGEN ENCAPSULATED = LESS FREE RADICALS LESS FREE RADICALS = REDUCED CUTICLE DAMAGE

A Breakthrough in Ammonia Free Tone on Tone Colour Technology. Kitoko Satin is a range of 30 intermixable tone on tone shades. It is an ideal introduction to first time colouring, gradually washing away and giving minimal re-growth. It is also suitable for clients not requiring a full permanent colour. Kitoko Satin’s unique conditioning emulsion crème base, coupled with our acclaimed DATEM™ Technology ensures fast and effective penetration of the colour molecule without cuticle damage. The ultra gentle, ammonia free formula will not lift or lighten natural or artificial colour and can be used directly after a permanent wave. Kitoko Satin can be used to enhance natural hair colour or add tone and will cover up to 50% white hair. Clear ‘000’ can be used to dilute and modify the other colours in the range to give the colourist unlimited shade variations.

Important Kitoko Satin 002 should NEVER be mixed with the other Kitoko Satin shades including 000 Clear. 002 has a slightly different pH to achieve Grey Shades. When mixed with other shades it can give unwanted tones. ASP Satin Clear ‘000’ can be used alone (mixed with Satin Activator 2.8% - 9.3vol) to add shine and texture to fine, dull, natural or tinted hair WITHOUT changing the colour. Kitoko Satin can be mixed with Intensives.

Shade Guide Kitoko Satin Shade Chart is based on 50% white hair.

Kitoko Satin Colour Selection Kitoko Satin deposits colour without any lift action - it therefore adds colour and/or depth to the clients existing colour. For optimum results: If no white hair is present, a shade lighter than the target should be used. This rule does not apply to shades used as toners on very blonde hair (e.g. 9.00 Champagne Blonde, 9.23 Pearl Blonde). Where a lighter shade is not available, mix 25% Clear 000 into the colour.

Example Three quarters tube (45g/1.52oz) Kitoko Satin Colour + Quarter tube (15g/0.51oz) Kitoko Satin Clear 000 + 120g/4.23oz Kitoko Satin Activator. Total mix in a bowl 180g/6.34oz.

White Hair When Approximately 50% white hair is present, the target shade can be used. When Approximately 50% - 100% white hair is present, use the target shade + 25% of the next darker natural shade.

Example ¾ tube (45g/1.52oz) 7.4 + ¼ tube (15g/0.51oz) 6.0. Mix with 120g/4.23oz of Satin Activator. Total mix in bowl 180g/6.34oz.

Kitoko Satin Mixing Instructions Kitoko Satin is mixed with Kitoko Satin Activator. 1 part Kitoko Satin to 2 parts Satin Activator.


/22 Kitoko Satin Ammonia Free Tone On Tone Colour

Example Half tube (30ml) Kitoko Satin Crème + (60ml) Kitoko Satin Activator.

Kitoko Satin Clear 000 Kitoko Satin Clear 000 contains no colour and may be used to dilute the colour of any Kitoko Satin shade. Examples ¾ (45ml) 4.53 + ¼ (15ml) ‘000’ CLEAR will give a one shade lighter colour - 5.53 ½ (30ml) 4.53 + ½ (30ml) ‘000’ CLEAR will give a two shade lighter colour - 6.53 ¼ (15ml) 4.53 + ¾ (45ml) ‘000’ CLEAR will give a three shade lighter colour - 7.53

Remember When you dilute all shades, except naturals, the tone will be weakened.

Kitoko Satin Clear Shine and Texturising Treatment Kitoko Satin Clear 000 mixed with Satin Activator to a ratio of 1 : 2, can be used to add shine, texture and body.

Hair Types

Results

Static hair and all hair types that need shine Highlighted Hair

Hair becomes easier to work and more manageable. Satin ‘000’ gives a high gloss finish

Kitoko Satin Application Application may be made on wet or dry hair. Kitoko Satin, when applied to pre-washed/towel dried hair, will give a Tone on Tone result that gradually fades away. When applied to dry hair it gives a more permanent result.

ASP Skin Test Method ASP recommend a skin test before every colour application. Mix small amount of chosen shade with appropriate developer to be used on client. Apply to forearm or behind ear. Leave for 25 minutes, rinse. Look for reaction after 24 and 48 hours. If any irritation or reaction occurs do not apply colour.

First Time Application to Virgin Hair Kitoko Satin should be applied from root to ends in one application using a non-metallic bowl and brush or applicator.

Regrowth Application When applying where there is still colour present in the ends of the hair, the following method should be used: A) Apply Kitoko Satin to the root area only. Process for 15-20 minutes. B) Apply remaining colour to the ends of the hair and massage. If the hair is excessively porous through the mid-lengths and ends, it is advisable to add 25% of Clear 000 to the target shade before applying to the ends. C) The processing time is up to 25 minutes. D) Emulsify and rinse.

Kitoko Satin Processing Times Processing times will vary depending on the porosity of the hair. Individual judgement must be made for each application. The following is a guide to help to assess the correct development time. Do not use heat with Kitoko Satin. 1. Natural hair with little or no chemical treatment and low porosity: 20 - 25 minutes with no heat or 15 minutes covered with a cap. (No Heat) 2. Chemically treated and porous hair. (tinted / permed) 10 -15 minutes with no heat. 3. Very porous natural or chemically treated hair or immediately after perming. 3 - 15 minutes. If necessary dilute with Clear 000. Visual processing time. 4. When using Kitoko Satin as a toner on bleached, very light or porous hair, always strand test prior to application. Use Clear 000 to dilute chosen shade to required depth. Visual processing time. Kitoko Satin may also be used to refresh colours from the Kitoko Crème range (Numbering System is the same for both products), e.g. After a permanent wave or to refresh the ends after a root application with Kitoko.

Removal of Kitoko Satin Colour A) First massage gently without water to remove any staining from the skin. B) Add a small amount of water and emulsify. C) Rinse well until water runs clear. D) Shampoo with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

Technical Manual


Kitoko Satin Ammonia Free Tone On Tone Colour

.000

.002

Clear

Silver

6.0

7.0

Dark Blonde

4.2

Medium Violet Brown

5.5

Mahogany Brown

7.3

2.0

Very Dark Brown

8.0

4.0

5.0

Extra Natural Medium Brown

Light Brown

9.00

9.23

Very Light Golden Blonde

Medium Blonde

Light Blonde

Very Light Blonde

4.53

4.65

4.776

Medium Mahogany Golden Brown

Beaujolais

Dark Plum

Light Copper Brown

6.35

6.43

6.45

6.65

Coconut

Copper Sunset

Copper Beech

Port Wine

7.46

8.31

8.32

7.4

/23

5.4

Sahara

Tawny Copper Blonde

Ruby

Warm Ash Beige

Warm Beige

5.036

6.036

7.036

9.035

3.66

Coffee

Dark Chocolate

Milk Chocolate

Cafe Latte

Burgundy The colours indicated in this guide are a representation only.

ASPhair.com


/24 Intensives Colour Crème

OXYGEN ENCAPSULATED = LESS FREE RADICALS LESS FREE RADICALS = REDUCED CUTICLE DAMAGE

Customise your Colour with ASP Intensives - your Creative Colour Palette. ASP Intensives is a range of un-oxidised pure pigments, designed for use with any permanent or tone on tone hair colour. When Intensives are mixed with another permanent or tone on tone colour that uses developer, Intensives become part of the host colour. This means that the added colour from Intensives is as permanent as the host colour. Intensives are used when the colourist wants to increase or subdue tone. We can use Intensives in two different ways: ADD - When staying on same level, darkening or intensifying tone. Adding to the mix - i.e. 30g/1.01oz of Colour, 45g/1.52oz of developer plus 30g/1.01oz of Intensives added.

Example Mix 100g/3.8oz 7.4 Kitoko + 150g/5.07oz of your chosen developer + (ADD) 50g/1.69 0.4 Intensives As you can see from this example we are ADDING the Intensives to the mix. This method should be used when darkening and increasing depth and tone. INCLUDE - When lightening and brightening tone. Included in the mix - i.e. 30g/1.01oz of colour, 30g/1.01oz of Intensives plus 90g/3.04oz of ASP Crème Developer.

Example Mix 100g/3.38oz 7.4 Kitoko + (INCLUDE) 50g/1.69oz 0.4 Intensives + 225g/7.93oz of your chosen ASP Crème Developer. As you can see from this example we are INCLUDING the Intensives to the mix. This method should be used when a lighter, vibrant result is required.

The following tones are available in the Intensives range: 0.1 Green Ash

0.2 Violet Ash

0.21 Blue Ash

0.3 Gold

0.4 Copper

0.6 Red

0.76 Purple

The colours indicated in this guide are a representation only.

The possibilities of colour variations using Intensives are endless. Intensives are designed to let you be more creative and to expand your colour palette. Intensives tones 0.3, 0.4, 0.6 , and 0.76 can be ADDED or INCLUDED in large quantities, if desired, to give bright or vibrant tones. They can also be used on their own mixed with 3%(10vol) - 1 part Intensives to 1½ parts ASP Crème Developer - on previously coloured hair to introduce warm tonal effects. Intensives Ash tones 0.1, 0.2, 0.21 are designed to help eliminate warm tones (Red, Copper and Gold) when lightening. On some occasions the colourist may wish to use high lift 12. or 10. series colours on dark bases to achieve light beige or cool blondes. When the colourist uses colours with tones .1 Green Ash, .2 Violet Ash or .21 Blue Ash and high volumes of developer 9%(30vol) and (12%)40vol, the ashening effect in the colour is not always strong enough to subdue the red, yellow and orange generated from the natural colour when lifting. Intensives provide the solution to this problem.

Technical Manual


Intensives Colour Crème

Intensives 0.1 when added to a .1 colour, e.g. 12.1, increases the ashening effect dramatically. This will enable the 12.1 to subdue more of the warm tones generated during lifting. Similarly by adding 0.2 Violet to 12.2 or 10.2 the cooling of the Gold tone is increased. Care should be exercised when adding Ash Tones to blonde shades, e.g. 10. and 12. series colours . A maximum of 10% in the mix is recommended. Always use ‘INCLUDE’ method. E.g. 1 tube 100g/3.38oz 10. series to 10g/0.33oz Intensives Ash (0.1, 0.2, or 0.21) + 165g/5.82oz of Developer. E.g. 1 tube 100g/3.38oz 12. series to 10g/0.33oz Intensives Ash (0.1, 0.2, or 0.21) + 220g/7.76oz Developer 9% or 12%

Adding 0.21 Blue Ash When lifting from natural base 1. 2. 3. or 4. to levels 6. 7. or 8. Warm copper tones are generated.

Example Base 2.0 Target 6.0 Colour used 7.1 Developer 9%(30vol) Colour Result : Warm base 6 By adding 30% Intensives .21 Blue Ash, into dark shades, a true 6.0 can be achieved.

Example Base 2.0 Target 6.0 Colour 7.1 Plus 30% Intensives 0.21e.g. 100g/3.38oz tube 7.1 + 30g/1.01oz of 0.21 + 195g/6.87oz of 9%(30vol) Créme Developer.

/25


/26 bRED Colour Highlighting Crème

OXYGEN ENCAPSULATED = LESS FREE RADICALS LESS FREE RADICALS = REDUCED CUTICLE DAMAGE

bRED is an off-the-scalp colour highlighting system that delivers intensive Red, Red Violet, Red Copper, Copper and Magenta highlights on natural and coloured hair in just 15 minutes (under gentle heat). bRED’s unique formulation provides incredible lifting power, whilst our acclaimed DATEM™ Technology enables the colour to penetrate deeper and faster into the hair shaft, with zero damage to the cuticle. bRED is formulated for use on dark bases: base 6 and darker are recommended for all bRED shades, with the exception of Magenta which is formulated for use on base 6 and lighter.

Mixing bRED is mixed on a ratio of 1 part bRED to 1 part of your chosen Affinage Crème Developer.

Developer Usage bRED - Red, Red Violet, Red Copper and Copper are designed to give stunning results on all hair types, with low percentages (volumes) of Créme Developer. It is not generally necessary to use a high percentage (volume) of Créme Developer to achieve maximum lift and colour. For best results use Affinage Crème Developer as follows (depending on amount of colour build-up): • 3%(10vol) on bases 6 and 5 • 6%(20vol) on bases 5 and 4 • 9%(30vol) on bases 4 and 3 • 12%(40vol) should only be used when extreme lift is required on hair that is difficult to lighten. Please remember that high percentages (volumes) of Créme Developer will give more lift but may reduce the intensity of the colour. • bRED Magenta should ONLY be used with 9%(30vol) or 12%(40vol) Créme Developer on bases 6, 7 and 8. On bases 9, 10 and above use 3%(10vol) Créme Developer.

Application • Apply a small quantity to the hair using your preferred application method (i.e. cap, foil, meche). bRED is not recommended for whole head application or on scalp use.

Processing Times • Process for 15 minutes under gentle heat (covered) or process for 35 minutes with no heat. Do not overheat (for example under a hairdryer on maximum heat). Heat is recommended or hair that has a build up of colour.

Technical Manual


bRED Colour Highlighting Crème

/27

• bRED Magenta should be processed as follows: 9%(30vol) or 12%(40vol) Créme Developer - 15 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F). 3%(10vol) Créme Developer - 35 minutes with no heat.

Removal • After processing, rinse the hair thoroughly and shampoo with Infiniti ColourCare shampoo. Ensure that the water runs clear. Finish with Infiniti ColourCare Conditioner.

Important • bRED is a very intense colour and should not be used on (or with) blonde/white hair, except Magenta, as this could give unwanted results. If in doubt, perform a strand test prior to application. • If bRED is used on very dark, colour treated hair, the colour results may be less vibrant.

Red

Red Copper

Copper

Red Violet

Magenta

The colours indicated in this guide are a representation only.

ASPhair.com


/28 HotShotz True Semi-Permanent

Coming 2011

OXYGEN ENCAPSULATED = LESS FREE RADICALS LESS FREE RADICALS = REDUCED CUTICLE DAMAGE

HotShotz is a True Semi-Permanent Hair Colour that Delivers Exceptional Shine and Vibrancy. Available in 9 stunning shades, HotShotz illuminates and intensifies existing permanent or semi-permanent hair colour and enhances natural hair colour in only 3 - 20 minutes. It will also cover up to 20% white hair. The advanced créme base with DATEM™ Technology contains no ammonia and requires no peroxide, meaning HotShotz conditions the hair as it provides beautiful radiance, colour and manageability. HotShotz is easy to use, leaves no re-growth and washes completely away after 6 – 10 shampoos (depending on the porosity of the hair). It can be applied straight from the bottle or using a bowl and brush or applicator.

Instructions For Use See chart below for colour selection recommendations. Shade

Result

Recommended Bases

QUICKSILVER** SAND BLONDE BURNT COPPER* RED CHILLI* WILD HONEY* HOT CHOCOLATE LIQUORICE ICE CHESTNUT AUBERGINE

Cool Silver Tones Warm Golden Blonde Copper Hot Red Muted Gold Tones Warm Rich Brown Black Flat/Warm Brown Deep Purple/Violet Tones

10, 9 & 8 9, 8 & 7 8, 7 & 6 7, 6 & 5 8, 7 & 6 7, 6 & 5 3, 2 & 1 7, 6 & 5 5, 4 & 3

If applied to bases other than those recommended, results may be more vibrant or less vibrant. *These shades will give very vibrant results on pre-lightened hair. **Quicksilver is also recommended for use on pre-lightened hair to neutralise unwanted yellow tones.

Application Shampoo and towel dry hair. Distribute product evenly through the hair using a bowl and brush or applicator. Process for between 3 and 20 minutes depending on result required. Longer processing times will give more long lasting and intense results.

Removal Rinse thoroughly. Due to the conditioning properties of HotShotz, conditioning after processing may not be necessary.

Tip All HotShotz shades are intermixable to enable you to customise your results.

Technical Manual


Spectrum Highlighting & Toning System

Coming 2011

/29

OXYGEN ENCAPSULATED = LESS FREE RADICALS LESS FREE RADICALS = REDUCED CUTICLE DAMAGE

The Quick and Easy Solution to Highlighting and Toning. ASP Spectrum with DATEM Technology™ is a quick and easy highlighting system for natural and coloured hair. Spectrum lightens and tones the hair during a single process. In addition to the lightening powder and 3 special activators (8, 22 and 30 vol), the Spectrum system provides a choice of 6 pigments (tones) allowing you to create individual results for each client. You can use as many different tones as you wish, to create stunning results with cool, warm or natural tones. Spectrum can be used with all highlighting techniques, i.e. foils, meches, spatula, caps etc. ASP recommends the use of the special Spectrum disposable highlight cap. Spectrum advance formulation also allows on-scalp application.

Choosing Pigments (Tones) Spectrum Pigments can subdue or increase warmth in the result:

m en ts red uc e

the war mth i n hair

Warm Pi gme nts inc rea se

wa rm t

h

ir ha n i

Pig ol o C


/30 Spectrum Highlighting & Toning System

Coming 2011

Cool Pigments – Green, Blue and Violet reduce the warmth in the hair. For easy selection of cool Pigments, first identify depth of natural base you are to lift and then refer to the chart below. Natural Base

Dominant Tone In Hair

Spectrum Pigment To Use

10, 9

Yellow

Violet

8, 7, 6

Orange

Blue

5, 4, 3, 2, 1

Red

Green

Warm Pigments - Red, Neutral and Yellow increase warmth in the hair. Use these pigments to give subtle warm results.

Activators 8vol (2.4 %) - up to 4 levels of lift 22vol(6.6 %) - up to 5 levels of lift 30vol (9 %) - maximum 5 levels of lift. For dark bases only. NEVER USE 30vol FOR ON SCALP APPLICATIONS.

Mixing Blend in a non-metallic bowl to a creamy consistency.

2 level scoops Lightening Powder

2 level scoops of your chosen Activator

1 level scoop of Pigment (up to 2 level scoops of Pigment may be used for maximum tone deposit)

Application Apply generous amounts of product for maximum lift.

Processing Highlighting • Cover with a processing cap, unless using foil or meches. • Process for between 2 and 12 minutes (max) with gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F). Always use a pre heated heat source. • Check the lift (lightening effect) every 2 to 3 minutes.

The Spectrum Cap The Spectrum Cap an ideal way to achieve quick and easy highlighting effects is to use the special Spectrum Highlighting Cap. Simply place the cap on the clients head, tie around neck and under chin. Use the hooks provided to pierce the cap and pull through strands of hair to desired thickness. Warm the cap with hand drier to seal holes and mould to head shape. Apply Spectrum and process as per instructions.

On Scalp Application Important - DO NOT apply to the scalp if there are any abrasions or signs of irritation. Always use protective gloves. • Do not cover. • Do not use heat. • Do not use 30vol. • Process for up to 12 minutes (visual development is recommended). • Check the lift (lightening effect) frequently. If desired result is not achieved after maximum processing time (12 minutes), rinse from the hair and re-apply.

Removal Rinse thoroughly. Shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

Technical Manual


Coming 2011

Blonde Ammonia Free Lightening System

/31

OXYGEN ENCAPSULATED = LESS FREE RADICALS LESS FREE RADICALS = REDUCED CUTICLE DAMAGE

Finally the Lightening System you have all been waiting for! Blonde is an ammonia free highlighting system with an advanced on scalp formulation, featuring our unique DATEM™ Technology. Blonde will provide up to 5 levels of lift in 15 minutes under gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F) DO NOT USE HEAT WHEN APPLYING ON SCALP. It is a gentle alternative to bleach, offering superb lift with low volumes/percentages of developer, leaving the hair in excellent condition. Blonde is ideal for use as a pre-lightener before toners or colour. • DATEM™ Technology - enables maximum lift to be attained in 15 minutes with gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F) with no damage (OFF SCALP USE). • In addition to on scalp application, any highlighting technique can be used with Blonde, e.g. foil, cap, meche etc. • Blonde’s unique formulation makes the product easy to mix. It’s pleasant perfume and creamy mix ensures easy application and a pleasant experience for your client. • Blonde can be used with all volumes of developer - 3%, 6%, 9% or 12% (9 + 12% are not recommended for on scalp use).

Mixing and Application • Using a non-metallic bowl, mix 15g/0.5oz Part 1 (¼ Blonde Crème Tube) with 25g/1oz Part 2 (1 Blonde Powder Sachet) using 15g/0.5oz to 30g/1oz of your chosen ASP Crème Developer according to desired consistency (9 and 12% are not recommended for on scalp use). • Apply immediately after mixing to unwashed hair using on scalp application or your desired highlighting technique, e.g. foil, cap, meche etc.

Important DO NOT apply to the scalp if there are any abrasions or signs of irritation. Always use protective gloves.

Processing Times ON SCALP: Process for up to 30 minutes – DO NOT use heat. OFF SCALP: Process for 15 minutes under gentle heat (40 - 42°C / 104 - 108°F or up to 30 minutes with no heat.

Removal • Rinse thoroughly. • Shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner.

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/32 Ice Crème Ammonia Free Powder Lightener

ASP Ice Crème - Ammonia Free Powder Lightener - up to 7 levels of lift, depending on base colour. Ice Crème utilises the latest technology in powder lightening, being totally free from ammonia. This new technology is much kinder to the hair producing less swelling, porosity and damage. Ice Crème is suitable for on or off scalp use. Ice Crème does not contain ammonia or other odorous ingredients and therefore allows the use of the Apple (white powder) and Fresh Mint (Blue powder) fragrances. Ice Créme’s dust free on scalp formulation easily mixes to a creamy consistency. This makes for easy application and the product does not dry or flake during the lightening process. Ice Crème is recommended to be used with 3%(10vol) or 6%(20vol) developer. This will give sufficient lift for most hair types and bases. Ice Crème achieves levels of lift with these developers that are normally associated with using 9%(30vol) and 12%(40vol) developers with traditional bleaches. For on scalp use, we recommend that only 3%(10vol) is used

Mixing Instructions Mix one scoop of powder lightener with 2 scoops of your chosen ASP Crème Developer - 3%(10vol) or 6%(20vol) according to lift required. For best results use ASP Crème Developer.

Application Do not wash the hair before lightening. Take fine sections of hair and apply bleach liberally. On virgin heads apply to middle lengths and ends first, then to roots where the effect of lightening is quicker because of the scalp’s natural heat. On re-growth applications - do not overlap on to previously lightened hair.

Important DO NOT apply to the scalp if there are any abrasions or signs of irritation. Always use protective gloves.

Processing Times ASP Ice Crème is active for up to 60 mins. For very dark hair processing time may take up to 50 minutes. Light bases may require only a short processing time. Check frequently. Remember: resistant hair will need a longer development time than porous hair. Always check development of Ice Créme during process. Do Not Use Heat. When the required lift is achieved rinse thoroughly and gently shampoo the hair.

Highlighting Do not wash the hair before application. Use desired method of highlighting, i.e. foil, meches, highlighting cap, etc. Apply ASP Ice Crème liberally to the hair. Check development time frequently.

Technical Manual


Lite High Performance Powder Bleach

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High Performance Powder Bleach ASP Lite - Dust Free Powder Bleach - up to 6-7 levels of lift, depending on base colour. Lite is a high performance powder bleach suitable for all types of bleaching techniques. The gentle formula can be used with 3%(10vol), 6%(20vol), 9%(30vol) and 12%(40vol) developers to achieve high lifting power with optimum hair condition. Lite contains Hydrolysed Collagen to eliminate damage and retain elasticity. Lite is available in both blue and white powder. For best results use ASP Crème Developer.

Mixing Instructions Mix one scoop of Lite powder with your chosen strength of ASP Crème Developer (according to lift required) until you achieve a creamy consistency. You may vary the consistency by adding slightly different amounts of developer according to the technique you wish to use, i.e. full head, foil or cap highlights, etc.

Application Full Head application, Lite should be applied to the middle lengths and ends first and then to roots . On re-growth - apply Lite to the roots only.

Development Time Lite is active for up to 60 minutes. For very dark hair processing time may take up to 50 minutes. Light bases may require only a short processing time. Check frequently.

Remember Resistant hair will need a longer development time than porous hair. Always check development of Lite during processing. When the required lift is achieved rinse thoroughly and gently shampoo the hair.

Highlighting Do not wash the hair before application. Use desired method of highlighting, i.e. foil, meches, highlighting cap, etc. Apply Lite liberally to the hair. Check development time frequently.

Important DO NOT apply to the scalp if there are any abrasions or signs of irritation. DO NOT mix the product in a confined space and avoid inhaling the powder. If the product gets into the eyes wash immediately with cold water. Always use rubber gloves.


/34 Converter Converts Colour To Tone On Tone Effect

A Unique Conversion Concept which converts any Permanent Hair Colour CrĂŠme to tone on tone Effect This unique product (2%(6.7vol)), changes any permanent hair colour into a tone on tone by reducing the ammonia level. Converter, when mixed with permanent hair colour, will cover up to 50% white hair. Even if you already have a range of tone on tone colour, Converter will expand your palette by enabling you to use other shades from your existing permanent range. Converter can be used to introduce colour to clients and refresh faded colour.

Instructions For Use Mixing 1 part permanent colour - 20g/0.67oz 2 parts ASP Converter - 40g/1.35oz

Application First Time: Apply from roots to ends. Retouch: Apply to roots only for 15 - 20 minutes. To Refresh ends: Apply remaining product to ends for up to 5 minutes.

Process Natural hair: 20 - 25 minutes with no heat. N.B. Use a longer process time for deeper colour results and stronger coverage of white hair. Chemically treated and porous hair (tinted/permed): 10 - 15 minutes. Very porous or chemically treated, bleached or immediately after perming: 3 - 15 minutes (visual development). If using as a toner on bleached hair a strand test is recommended.

Removal After the processing is complete rinse well, shampoo and condition with Kitoko ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner. Rinse thoroughly. Do not use heat to process colours mixed with Converter. Do not mix Converter with high lift 12. Series.

Technical Manual


Kitoko Pre-Pigmentation Gel & Spray

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Kitoko Instant Pre-Pigmentation - the Fastest Way to Revitalise Tired Colour Kitoko Instant Pre-Pigmentation Spray & Gel are easy to use, Pre-Pigmentation products for full head correction work and partial re-colouration, i.e. foiling, meches, etc. • Use on faded colour before refresh application. • Built in porosity equaliser for more even and intensive colour results. • Can be used to enhance Red, Copper and Gold. • Can be used with any brand of permanent hair colour. • Helps to reduce colour fade.

Instructions For Use RED - for use before red, violet or mahogany shades or re-colouring back to base shades 1.0 to 5.0 ORANGE - for use before copper shades or re-colouring back to base shades 6.0 to 8.0 YELLOW - for use before gold shades or re-colouring back to base 9.0 to 10.0

Application Choose your application method: Spray - Ideal for fast application on larger areas. Gel - Ideal for precise application on foils and meches. 1. Apply sparingly to dry hair. 2. Massage in, concentrating on the most porous areas. DO NOT RINSE. Remove excess product with paper towel. Overloading of Kitoko Instant Pre-Pigmentation can prevent penetration of colour pigment. 3. Apply chosen permanent or tone on tone shade, and process according to manufacturer’s instructions. The table below indicates correct choice of Kitoko Instant Pre-Pigmentation depending on the target depth: Target Depth

Colour

10, 9

Yellow

8, 7, 6

Orange

5, 4, 3, 2, 1

Red

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/36 Eraser Colour Removal System

OXYGEN ENCAPSULATED = LESS FREE RADICALS LESS FREE RADICALS = REDUCED CUTICLE DAMAGE

Some Days We All Wish Our Hair Had a Reset Button Eraser is a revolutionary, non-bleaching colour removal system for all permanent and tone on tone (e.g. Kitoko Satin) colours. It specifically targets individual artificial hair colour molecules and leaves the hairs natural pigment untouched. Eraser actively reduces the artificial colour molecules within the hair shaft and allows them to be rinsed away. Because no bleaching takes place, Eraser is a much safer and more controllable product than other ‘bleach’ based colour removal systems. Eraser will not lift natural hair (hair with no artificial pigment), thus making colour removal easier when a regrowth is present. Eraser will not damage hair that has been previously bleached, chemically relaxed or permed. Unlike other colour removal systems, the low pH formula conditions the hair, leaving it in better condition than when you started and ready for a fresh application of colour immediately.

The action of Permanent Hair Colour An artificial dye is generated from small colourless molecules called ‘intermediates’. When these intermediates come into contact with peroxide, they combine to make bigger colour molecules in a process called ‘oxidation’. This action occurs inside the hair and, when the colour processing time is finished, the molecules have become large enough not to exit the hair. To remove these ‘large’ molecules, we have to reduce them in size to allow them to ‘exit’ the hair shaft. Eraser has the ability to do this by using a unique sulphur compound which does not damage the hair and is only effective on the artificial colour molecules. Cationic conditioners in Part 1 and Part 2 ensure that the hair condition is actually improved during the process.

The action of Eraser Part 1 and Part 2 The unique feature of Eraser is the carrier with the reducing agent, which is the most efficient available. One of the biggest problems with this type of product is that if the intermediates are not removed, and their action neutralised correctly, the remaining intermediates may re-oxidise and turn darker when the next colour is applied. Eraser Is designed with a creamy base and DATEM™ Technology which enable the ingredients to penetrate deep in to the hair. This makes Eraser very effective in reduction.

The action of Post Eraser Post Eraser contains a unique chelating cleansing system. This will remove 100% of the free intermediates and prevent the re-oxidisation that causes darkening. Post Eraser also moisturises the hair and restores the natural pH, leaving it in excellent condition.

Condition Due to its very low pH (3) and the cationic conditioners, Eraser leaves the hair soft, smooth and shiny.

Instructions Mixing (Parts 1 and 2) Use in a well ventilated area. • Mix equal parts of Eraser Part 1 and Part 2, i.e. 50ml : 50ml, in a non-metallic bowl or applicator bottle. This is enough working product for 1 application on short hair. • Blend the mixture together for at least 1 minute (this will activate the product) and use immediately. • Always apply to dry hair, avoiding the scalp, to the area requiring colour removal. • Cover with a plastic cap.

Processing • Removing pale shades or unwanted tones: 5 - 15 minutes without heat. • For removal of dark, old or intense colour: 15 minutes with gentle heat (40-42°C / 104-108°F). • Check the hair frequently until desired result is obtained.

Technical Manual


Eraser Colour Removal System

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• When desired lightness has been achieved, rinse well for 5 minutes (for short hair, increase time for long hair) and cleanse 4 times with a deep cleansing/clarifying shampoo). • Apply Post Eraser (see below).

If the colour has not been completely eliminated: • Repeat the operation. Remix fresh product and apply to dry hair. • Process as above and apply Post Eraser (see below). • Eraser can be used as many times as is required until desired result is achieved.

Post Eraser (Part 3) • Mix 50ml of Post Eraser with 40ml of water and 10ml of 6%(20vol) ASP Crème Developer. This is enough working product for 1 application on short hair. • Mix in a non-metallic bowl or applicator bottle. Blend and apply to hair as a shampoo. • Massage gently for 2-3 minutes and rinse well. • Towel dry hair and apply the chosen colour (see below). Note: If the hair appears to have darkened after applying Post Eraser, this is an indication that there may be colour molecules still remaining within the hair. If this occurs please repeat Eraser process. Remember to apply Part 1 and Part 2 to dry hair.

Re-colouration • When staying on the same level or to darken, 6%(20vol) ASP Crème Developer should ALWAYS be used. • To achieve your chosen shade select a colour 1 shade lighter than the target shade, e.g. if target colour is 7.0, use 8.0. + 6%(20vol) ASP Crème Developer. • When using a lifting product following an Eraser process, follow the manufacturer’s instructions. • DO NOT use a tone on tone product to re-colour the hair following an Eraser application. • When colouring back from very old/intense/dark/red or warm colour, test the expected result by mixing the chosen colour and apply to a small section of hair in foil and process for full development time. If the test produces a darker result than desired, repeat the Eraser process.

Important Do not use Eraser on hair treated with henna, metallic salts or true semi permanent colours.

Q & A’s Q: Can I reapply the process after Post Eraser has been used? A: Yes Q: How many times can I use Eraser Part 1 and Part 2? A: As many times as is required until desired result is achieved. Q: If the result is satisfactory after using Eraser Part 1 and Part 2, do I have to use Post Eraser? A: Yes. If Post Eraser is not used, the oxygen in the air may reactivate the pigment and cause darkening. Q: Can I use Kitoko Satin to recolour? A: No. The Kitoko Satin Activating Crème (2.8%) will cause a darker result than desired. Q: Can I use Kitoko with Converter to recolour? A: No. Converter is a low strength developer that can cause a darker result than desired. Q: Can I create highlights after Eraser process? A: Yes.


/38 ASP COLOUR WHEEL

ASP Colour Wheel 0.6 .6 RED

.5 M AHO GA NY

VI OL

2 0.

.2

ET

7.5

6.6

6.5

5.6

5.5

5.4

4.6 4.6 5 6.4

7.4

8.4

9.4

0.4

.4 C OP PE R

4 7.6 4 6.6

8.5 2

6. 2 4.

7.2

8.

9. 2

10 .2

H AS

7.6

2

2

2.

7.43

1.7

8.43

2

4.

9.34

3

10.34

3 5.

.3

GO

9.1

3 0.

LD

10.1

.1 GREEN ASH

0.1

> Each ring of the colour wheel represents a level of depth. > Darker colours are closest to the centre of the colour wheel. > Light colours are furthest from the centre of the colour wheel. > .0 and .00 are a unique blend of many tones from the colour wheel to create their NEUTRAL status. Therefore they cannot be shown graphically on this wheel. > ASP Intensives are marked on the outside of the colour wheel.

0.76 Intensives 0.76 is not shown on the colour wheel above as it cannot be accurately positioned.

Technical Manual

0.2 1

3 .3 10

8.1

.7 B LU E

8. 3 9.

7.1

.7 B LU E

3 6. 7.3

6.1


COLOUR DYNAMICS

/15 /39

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The ASP Technical Manual is also available for download @

ASPhair.com TECHNICAL HELPLINE AUS: 0432 241 182

International Hair Cosmetics Ltd.

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AI/TECH-BOOK

03/03/2011


ASP Technical Manual