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Luxury travel & lifestyle for families living in Asia
SPLASHING ADVENTURES ON THE SOUTH CHINA SEA
ASIA’S BEST NEW RESORTS FOR YOUR BUCKET LIST
Desert island drift
Off the beaten track in Cambodia
Heard it on the grapevine
Lunching in the vineyards of Thailand
A major new attraction in Shanghai has taken a mammoth 168,000 hours to construct - using 20 million tiny plastic bricks. Find out more on page 10.
A plush Hanoi hotel discovered a forgotten Vietnamese war bunker under its pool terrace and bar, it’s now safe for hard hat tours by guests. Check it out on page 35.
Hong Kong boasts 54+ international schools and Singapore a whopping 80. Find out more on page 49.
One French chef has discovered Vietnamese produce is a little more pungent than French equivalents. We put the recipe tinkering to the taste test on page 53.
An Asian vineyard produces 120,000 bottles of wine a year, creating top tier pours in one of the world’s most humid regions. Find out how on page 59.
Carolynne is Editor-in-Chief and founder of Asia Family Traveller. She’s British by birth and has spent time living and working in France, Spain and Australia and has lived in Hong Kong since 2010. Four children keep her busy, but she also loves HIIT, playing Mahjong and attempting to hold her own on the golf course. Most memorable family holiday? Nikoi Private Island in Indonesia was a real highlight.
Our Contributing Editor is a global nomad through and through. She has lived in many countries, including the Philippines, Australia, Switzerland, France and Spain and, along with her husband and two children, has called Hong Kong home for 13 years. She’s passionate about wellness, travel, food and languages. Favourite holiday destination? An African safari hands down.
Art Director Sonia was born in Hong Kong, studied in New York and now calls Dubai home. She’s spent the last few years designing magazines, campaigns and brand identities across the region. When she’s not obsessing over layout grids or typography, you’ll find her at a yoga class, exploring new coffee spots or planning her next city break - Italy is top of her list.
Tilly is Social Media Editor at Asia Family Traveller. She’s Australian by birth but grew up in Hong Kong and recently completed a Masters degree in design in the United Kingdom. She loves hiking, playing rugby, running and anything outdoors. She feels super lucky to have travelled all over the world and says it’s too hard to pick a favourite destination - anywhere with a beach and she’s happy!
Contributing Writer Gayatri was born to travel: she took her first flight at 10 days old and has since lived in Bangkok, Melbourne, Hong Kong, and London. From big cities and beach breaks to countryside getaways and off-the-beaten path destinations, there’s no place Gayatri won’t explore for a good story. On the road or at home in Hong Kong, she keeps up with Formula 1 and the NBA, hunts out exciting dining experiences and is a wellness enthusiast. Her biggest bucket list destination? Antarctica.
Editor-in-Chief
Carolynne Dear
Contributing Editors
Stacey Marcelo
Gayatri Bhaumik
Commercial Director
Marcus Langston
Art Director
Sonia Khatwani
Social Media Editor
Tilly Knowling
Web Design & Technical Support
Rickert Marais
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Online platforms - PressReader.
Hong Kong distributor - Far East Media (Hong Kong Ltd).
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Iam extremely excited to welcome you back to our print magazine. The last issue of Asia Family Traveller hit the printers a couple of years ago as we were pummeled by the ever-changing landscape of the pandemic.
At the time, pulling print was devastating, now it's (almost) become an entertaining dinner party anecdote (who launches a travel magazine on the cusp of a global pandemic?). My husband summed it up best on LinkedIn. “Having come up with the great idea of a beautifully written and designed magazine focused on family travel in Asia, it launched just a few months before Covid hit,” he wrote, as part of a recent congratulatory post.
But you live and learn and the experience has taught us invaluable lessons in swiftly pivoting editorial from leisurely resort reviews to up-tothe-minute travel information.
As a team, we hung on as long as we could but eventually had to admit defeat and retreated online. Having focused on website and social media content over the last two years, this year just felt right to bring the print mag back.
I have worked in print journalism all my career and, as unfashionable as it might be, there really is nothing like ficking through a beautifully crafted magazine. No clicks, no likes, no rabbit holes - the freedom to cast your mobile aside for a little while and surrender yourself to the analogue experience. Maybe with a cofee or two.
And it turns out it’s not just middle aged mums who think this way. Last month during a particularly rainy afternoon in Hong Kong, my daughter took herself of to a newly opened vinyl record store in Tsim Sha Tsui. As a Gen X-er who has lived through records (just about!), compact discs, mini-discs and
fnally Apple Music, I am these days loving the convenience of Spotify - all your favourite tunes in one place and you never have to get up and change the CD. So what would entice a Gen Z youngster to revert to records?
“It’s something you can hold,” she tells me simply.
And that’s exactly what print is. It’s something you can hold, something you can place on your cofee table and dip into, without having to search it up online.
Print of course is much more conducive to longer form articles, expertly laid out with stunning photography, and it has been extremely exciting as a team to be able to share our experiences around Asia in this way.
As a mum of four and with 15 years of experience living and travelling in this part of the world, it’s a real joy to see the stories come to life on the page. It’s been a busy few
CAROLYNNE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
months, to say the least. Fortunately I have a great editorial team who have fown away and returned with intriguing travel tales. Gayatri Bhaumik was one of the frst journalists to experience the sophisticated new Rafes allvilla resort on Sentosa island in Singapore (fnd out what she thought in our Weekender section), while Stacey Marcelo indulged with a family spa break in Thailand (all the details can be found in our Wellness section).
As for myself, I’ve lazed on desert islands in Cambodia, slept in repurposed rail carriages in northern Thailand and hung out in some really quite plush resorts. Nowhere does hospitality quite like Asia.
In these high-tech times, publishing in print is a risk. We hope it has paid of. Please enjoy our début issue, our soft launch, if you like, and we hope it inspires you to book your next trip.
Hong Kong’s Ngong Ping 360 has joined with Hong Kong Disneyland this summer to transform 11 of its Crystal Cabin cable cars into Disney-themed cabins.
The event marks Hong Kong Disneyland’s 20th anniversary and the cars are inspired by the park’s largest-ever parade, ‘Friendtastic!’. Each cable car is decorated with Disney characters, with stories including Disney and Friends, Duffy and Friends, Disney Princesses and characters from Zootopia, Big Hero 6, Toy Story, Monsters Inc., Turning Red, Inside Out, Up and Encanto.
Alongside the fun cars, visitors can enjoy Disney-themed installations and figurines at
Ngong Ping Village.
Both Ngong Ping 360 and Hong Kong Disneyland are located on Lantau, Hong Kong’s largest outlying island. Ngong Ping 360 is a popular tourist attraction on the island, featuring a scenic cable car ride from Tung Chung to the cultural village of Ngong Ping. The ride offers spectacular aerial views of Lantua’s mountainous landscape as well as bustling scenes of Hong Kong International Airport.
Ngong Ping village is also home to Po Lin Monastery and Tian Tan Buddha, known locally as the ‘Big Buddha’.
The themed cars will be running until August 31.
Cathay Cargo has carefully transported ten, priceless terracotta figures and more than 200 precious artefacts from Xi’an in China to Perth, Australia, for an exhibition. ‘Terracotta Warriors: Legacy of the First Emperor’ at WA Museum Boola Bardip will showcase the world renowned terracotta warriors alongside ancient weapons and armour, sculptures, bronze vessels, palace tiles and pottery. Most of the items have never been seen in Australia before and half of the artefacts have never left China.
“It's our mission to inspire curiosity,” said Museum Exhibitions director Jason Fair. “We hope people gain an understanding of the culture, history and people of China.”
The exhibition runs until February 2026 at which point the artefacts will be flown back to Xi’an by Cathay Cargo.
The terracotta warriors are among China’s most iconic cultural treasures and Cathay admitted it was a privilege to help bring Chinese culture to the world. The artefacts were first transported to Zhengzhou from where they were flown to Australia via Hong Kong.
The Terracotta Army is a collection of terracotta sculptures crafted more than 2,000 years ago. The figures, including warriors, generals, chariots and horses, represent the armies of Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of China and were buried with the emperor on his death to protect him in the afterlife. The Terracotta Army was found by chance in 1974 when a group of farmers were digging a well nearby to the emperor’s tomb mound. It turned out to be the largest pottery figurine group ever uncovered and a museum complex has since been built in the area to showcase the discovery.
Flying with children can be stressful but fortunately these days, many of the world’s carriers are rising to the challenge. This year, Skytrax has named Lufthansa as the World’s Most Family Friendly Airline.
The Skytrax awards, known as the ‘Oscars of the airline industry’, recognise airlines that go above and beyond in providing family-friendly services and amenities. Lufthansa was highlighted for its family-oriented check-in, priority boarding, family seating, children’s meals, entertainment and overall service.
policies for carrycots and strollers. The standard of service assistance from ground staff and cabin crew is also considered.
Reach for the stars
‘Noctorurism’, a buzz word combining ‘nocturnal’ and ‘tourism’, is the latest travel trend, and covers anything from late-night opening museums and markets to bioluminescent beaches and star gazing. Top spots for enjoying the night sky in Asia include Dalat in Vietnam, Khao Yai in Thailand, Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands, Lombok in Indonesia and Palawan in the Philippines.
British Airways was awarded second place, Emirates scooped third prize and Singapore Airlines and Air Canada took fourth and fifth places respectively.
Skytrax evaluates airline performance including family seating together, dedicated family check-in services, priority boarding, children’s meals, children’s amenities, toys and activity packs, child-specific onboard entertainment, free checked luggage and
Emirates also scooped the award for Most Family Friendly Airline in the Middle East. Family-oriented services provided by Emirates include priority boarding for families across all international airports, healthy inflight children’s meals, fun amenities, a huge smorgasbord of child-appropriate in-flight entertainment, extra services for unaccompanied minors and accessibility for families with neurodivergent children.
Singapore Airlines took home the Most Family Friendly Airline in Asia award.
The world’s largest Legoland has opened in China. Legoland Shanghai Resort, aimed at families with children aged two to 12 years, is the first Legoland park to open in China.
The park boasts more than 75 interactive rides, shows and attractions, families can ride a roller coaster, obtain a driving license at the Lego Driving School and experience firefighting missions at the Lego Fire Academy. The resort also features a 250-room Legoland hotel.
Another star attraction looks set to be ‘Miniland’, a miniature replica of Shanghai’s Lujiazui financial district featuring the worldfamous Bund promenade and modern-day skyscrapers. Miniland took 168,000 hours to complete using a massive 20 million tiny plastic LEGO bricks.
According to officials, it’s hoped the US$550 million resort, located in the southwestern Jinshan district, will attract up to 2.4 million
visitors a year.
Two more China-based Legoland theme parks are currently under construction, one in Shenzhen in Guangdong province and another in Sichuan's Chengdu city.
Legoland Shanghai Resort joins other major family attractions to recently open in China, including Shanghai Disney Resort and Universal Studios Beijing. A Harry Potter Studio Tour is set to open in Shanghai in 2027.
According to research by travel association ABTA, trading up is on trend. Increasingly, travellers are treating themselves to a little bit of luxury with five-star stays on the rise. Data from 2024 shows that of those surveyed, 35% stayed in five-star accommodation when travelling overseas, up from 30% the year before. Interestingly, Gen Z was more likely than any other demographic to splash out. It starts young these days…
Destinations that regularly pop-up on social media are fading in popularity as travellers seek unique and off-thebeaten-track experiences. Real and more authentic experiences are being prized more highly when sharing online, rather than picture-perfect, staged shots in fashionable locations. Over-crowded is ‘out’, while ‘boutique’, ‘adventure’ and ‘wellness’ is ‘in’.
Not every trip has to be branded to mark a life event. While the traditional honeymoon is without doubt to be celebrated, do we really want to spend the rest of our lives mooning all over the world? (Baby, mini, pet and even new-job moons have been spotted online). There’s really nothing wrong with a good old fashioned getaway.
Asia’s first adventure-based wildlife park opened in Singapore this year, boasting a one-of-a-kind, forest-themed experience.
Rainforest Wild Asia is home to 36 animal species which are housed in ‘dynamic’ habitats and featured at different times of the day. As well as viewing the animals, visitors can enjoy forest trails, trekking routes and eight zones demonstrating the various habitats, including karst formations and cavern chambers.
“We live in one of the world’s most biodiverse regions, but many species are under threat due to the loss of wild habitats and the negative impact of pollution,” Mandai Wildlife Group’s Mike Barclay told Asia Family Traveller. “We want to raise awareness of the region’s incredible wildlife by shining a spotlight on them in this park.”
Exhibits include the Francois langur, one of the rarest monkeys in the world, the elusive Malayan sun bear and Malayan tigers.
The park is connected by a network of walkways and forest trails; visitors
can explore a rainforest up in the tree canopy or on the forest floor and head into reconstructed cave chambers inspired by the Mulu Caves of Sarawak. There are also guided tours of various levels of difficulty and kids - or kids at heart - can enjoy a suspended, nature-immersive net playground at the AIA Vitality Bounce experience.
A world première art exhibition has opened in Macau. Picasso: Beauty and Drama is hosted by SJM Resorts and Museo Casa Natal Picasso as part of Art Macao: Macao International Art Biennale 2025.
The exhibition takes place at Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau and showcases more than 140 original works by Pablo Picasso, including paintings, prints, ceramics, manuscripts and illustrations. The exhibition explores the artist’s interpretations of beauty and the emotional drama in his personal life.
The event aims to reflect on Art Macau 2025’s ‘Hey, what brings you here?” theme, charting the artist’s creative evolution through various stages of his career and his deep connection with his native Anadalusia.
Visitors can explore the exhibition through its themed galleries, including Beauty, Myths, Bulls, Women, Ceramics, Techniques and Top Ten (ten works that represent Picasso’s artistic genius, familial devotion, love for tradition and irreverent wit).
The exhibition culminates with an interactive zone that invites visitors to return to the theme of ‘Hey, what brings you here?’,
For harder core adrenaline seekers, Adventure Plus and Black Adventure activities include a 13 or 20m free fall Canopy Jump, a Critter Crawl through a 60m cave and twoand three-hour harness tours.
Refueling points include the Cavern Restaurant, Singapore’s first and only restaurant in a cave.
including a Mirror Room to “awaken selfawareness”.
Grand Lisboa Palace will also host a series of family-friendly workshops combining creativity and play. They include collage, clay craft and more. Children aged 12 and under must be accompanied by an adult. Sessions cost MOP150 per person and reservations can be made by calling +853 8881 0720.
SJM Resorts owns a number of integrated resorts and hotels in Macau, including Grand Lisboa Palace Macau, The Karl Lagerfeld, Palazzo Versace Macau, Grand Lisboa and Hotel Lisboa.
Picasso: Beauty and Drama, Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau, July 20 to October 26, guided tours available in Cantonese and English. The exhibition runs until October
The hotly anticipated Raffles Sentosa Singapore opened this spring. Gayatri Bhaumik checked in for the weekend
AVIP greeter meets me as soon as I step off the jet bridge at Singapore’s Changi airport; within minutes, I’m clearing immigration, picking up my luggage, and stepping into a gleaming Mercedes-Benz van. So far, so slick. This is exactly the level of service I would expect from the all-new Raffles Sentosa Singapore.
The Lion City’s first all-villa resort quietly began welcoming guests in March, although it was the grand opening in May that officially signalled new beginnings on Sentosa, better known as Singapore’s leisure island.
Design firm Yabu Pushelberg created the new hotel, which cascades down a hillside, covering 100,000sqm of pristine nature. At first glance, it’s impressive, with abundant use of natural materials and contrasting textures that allow the resort to blend into its surroundings.
But something feels slightly off. The resort, while beautiful, feels a little anonymous, lacking the curated personality of other Raffles hotels, such as the Philippe Starck-designed
the charming
Singapore’s original Raffles.
There are also some interesting design choices. Signs around the resort contain tiny silver lettering set against grey stone, rendering them almost unreadable; the layout is such that even staff get lost while ferrying guests about in buggies; and at the Royal China restaurant, diners enter through
grand doors to find an empty space as the - otherwise lavish - restaurant is situated downstairs.
Still, the designers have worked hard to - ever so subtly – remind guests of Sentosa’s wild side. There’s a majestic, century-old ficus tree by the grand Arrival Hall; peacocks strut around the resort’s main pool and there are perfectly framed peeks at the lush tropical rainforest beyond. Elsewhere, there’s local art inspired by the island’s nature and on my nightstand is a cloth-bound copy of The Jungle Book. And the welcome drink at check-in?
A freshly-made Sentosa Sling packed with locally-sourced botanicals.
The Raffles brand is synonymous
with luxury and my signature onebedroom pool villa - one of the 62 villas that make up the resort - certainly lives up to this. The living room pavilion is a haven of comfort with a massive, nature-inspired mural, an oversized sofa, plush armchairs, and an opulent minibar, while the private terrace, which features a pool and canopied daybed, lends itself to casual work afternoons. Then there’s the neutraltoned bedroom pavilion, a cornucopia of luxe textures that includes highthread-count linens, neutral-toned latticed wood, thick carpeting and, surprisingly, copper drinking vessels on the nightstands - a nod to Ayurveda tradition and the hotel’s casual focus on wellness.
Through sliding doors, the spacious marble bathroom is fitted with a grand double vanity, a standalone tub and opulent Ortigia amenities from Sicily.
A note for families, the villas have lots of floor-to-ceiling glass, heavy sliding doors and the outdoor terrace has a door leading straight into the bathroom which could lead to mishaps when entering directly from the pool.
While there’s no kids club, several
families seemed to be enjoying very comfortable stays.
For adults, this is a place to kick back and relax. The main pool, flanked by sunloungers and overlooking the rainforest, is, rather perfectly, almost always deserted. And there’s plenty of dining. The Cantonese weekend set lunch at Royal China is a treat, as is the semi-buffet breakfast at Empire Grill (dinner here wasn’t quite up to scratch, though it was the staff’s first night managing a full service). But my favourite spot was the intimate Chairman’s Room bar, which serves excellent negronis.
Accommodation aside, the highlight of my visit was the afternoon I spent touring the island with Raffles Sentosa Singapore’s concierge and
wellbeing manager, Ali Alsagoff. Ensconced in a chauffeured Rolls-Royce, we embarked on a journey through Sentosa’s past and present. Our first stop was Fort Siloso, the former British base which played a pivotal role during World War Two; later, we visited Sentosa Sensoryscape, an immersive augmented reality experience that showcases the island’s hyper-modern side. To complete the experience, we drove through some of Sentosa’s private residential areas. It’s a scene straight out of Crazy Rich Asians (rumour has it that Facebook co-founder Eduardo Saverin lives here) with Lamborghinis and Ferraris parked nonchalantly outside designer homes. Overall, my stay at Raffles
Sentosa Singapore is enjoyable. Staff are friendly and helpful, there’s always plenty to eat and drink and there’s lots of space in which to stretch out and relax. As sometimes happens during a hotel’s early months, though, there were some service slip-ups which meant that the property doesn’t feel
like it quite lives up to the Raffles standards yet. While checking out, I got chatting with some industry professionals who had been brought in for training. Without doubt they’ll have things ship-shape in no time.
Asia Family Traveller was a guest of Raffles Sentosa Singapore.
With a raft of recent hotel openings and a deluge of dining accolades, the Big Mango is ripe for the picking, writes Carolynne Dear
The luxurious Aman Nai Lert Bangkok opened its doors in the Thai capital this month, the latest in a long line of ritzy hotels keen to call Bangkok home.
Despite hitting the headlines recently when an earthquake sent tremors through the city, Bangkok is fast becoming the destination of the moment, with Michelin-starred restaurants, high end hotels and glittering new skyscrapers springing up apace.
Aman’s new property is the brand’s third ‘urban sanctuary’, a departure from its luxury resort-style offerings. The hotel is located in the leafy environs of Nai Lert Park and marks something of a homecoming for Aman as it joins the original Aman, Amanpuri, which opened its doors in Phuket 37 years ago.
The 36-storey all-suite hotel also offers branded residences, as well as an Aman Club, a stunning three-floor Aman spa and wellness centre (which also includes a medical centre) and various dining spaces. Meanwhile, the pool has been shaped around a century-old ‘sompong’ tree for shady afternoon swims.
Aman Nai Lert follows hot on the heels of the André Fu-designed Dusit Thani property at nearby Lumpini Park that opened last autumn.
Fu was tasked with reimagining the original flagship hotel that boasted a 50-year heritage and the holder of happy memories for locals and travellers alike. The goal was to reaffirm the hotel’s status, with its ubiquitous golden spire, as one of the city’s most recognised landmarks but bring it into the modern era. According to Fu, along with Dusit’s creative team he dug deep into the history and heritage of the property that originally opened in 1970 and was demolished in 2019 to be replaced with a contemporary skyscraper.
“The original Dusit Thani Bangkok was an
integral part of the city’s identity,” explains Natapa Srijyuksiri, managing director of Dusit Estate. “We sought a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, echoing the spirit of the original hotel and reinterpreting its classic qualities through a modern lens. André Fu Studio’s meticulous attention to detail has brought this vision to life, from the bespoke furniture and lighting to the delicate embellishments that subtly reference the original property.”
The new-look, triple-height lobby recreates the grand arrival experience of the original property, with a waterfall garden featuring trees that were first planted at the original hotel. Artwork commissioned locally from Thai artist Sakon Malee is prominently displayed alongside pottery from Koh Kret, a small island on the Chao Phraya river.
Cantilevered windows in the rooms ensure
guests have uninterrupted views over Lumpini Park. “The four-metre wide window bay in a singular glass sheet is the most distinctive feature of the guest rooms,” says Fu. “Framing views of the park, we have recreated the spirit of Thailand’s traditional sala asai, a place for travellers to rest and reflect, with elegant day beds that stretch the entire length of the cantilevered windows, allowing guests to savour the unrivalled views.”
Further facilities include an ‘urban wellness concept’ that features a 25m infinity pool, also overlooking the park, as well as a gym, yoga studio and spa.
And don’t miss the retro glam 1970 Bar on the 39th Floor. Described as a ‘tropical boudoir’ set against the city skyline, the cocktail bar channels the hotel's early days in the 1970s with a ‘1970 Martini’ as homage to legendary ‘70s jewellery designer Elsa Peretti and a Tina Turner-inspired ‘Acid Queen’ gin-based mix.
Indeed when it comes to dining, Bangkok is no slouch. No fewer than 45 Bib Gourmand awards were handed out, many to street food stalls, at the recent Michelin Guide Thailand 2025 awards. The event saw Bangkok’s Sorn become the country’s first three-Michelin-star dining room, while Cote by Mauro Colagreco stepped up as a two-Michelin-star destination and Coda and Goat became the city’s newest one-Michelin-star holders.
Another major new addition to Bangkok’s skyline is the One Bangkok building. With food and beverage destinations, retail podiums, serviced apartments and art galleries, the
“NO FEWER THAN 45 BIB GOURMAND AWARDS WERE HANDED OUT - MANY TO STREET FOOD STALLS - AT THE MICHELIN GUIDE THAILAND 2025 AWARDS”
multi-billion dollar development will host two luxury hotels by the end of this year, the first of which, The Ritz-Carlton Bangkok, opened in December. The building’s facade maximises The Ritz-Carlton's views, also over Lumpini Park, with ascending open-air terraces. Inside the rooms, floor-to-ceiling windows frame the views and many of the rooms offer private loggias and terraces.
There are three restaurants, including Duet by David Toutain, the Michelin-starred chef of Parisian dining space, Restaurant David Toutain; the dining space showcases meticulously sourced ingredients and artisanal produce. The hotel’s Ritz-Carlton Spa offers treatment rooms, a spa suite for couples, a relaxing pod and two pools, including, in a nod to visiting families, a dedicated kids’ pool. Youngsters can also head to the Ritz Kids Club.
Bangkok of course is currently host to
the best hotel in the world, following Capella Bangkok’s winning streak at last year’s World’s 50 Best Properties awards. The decadent property on the Chao Phraya River opened in 2020 with lush gardens, elegant architecture and riverside suites.
But it is Bangkok’s ‘grande dame’ that currently captures the zeitgeist. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok was the only hotel in the city to be used in the filming of series three of HBO's hugely popular The White Lotus. The legendary riverside property, which originally opened in 1876 as The Oriental, welcomed both show creator Mike White as well as cast and crew for footage that eventually appeared in episode five of the drama.
“For nearly 150 years we have welcomed luminaries, writers like Somerset Maugham, Joseph Conrad and John Le Carre, as well as visionaries from around the world,” said general manager Anthony Tyler. White now has his own portrait on the wall of the hotel’s fabled Author’s Lounge.
And there's still more to come. The Langham is slated to open next year in Bangkok’s elegant 1888-built Customs House on the Chao Phraya river. The project is a restoration of the historic old building, which features teak floors and a four-storey entrance hallway. And later this year, Hyatt plans to open Andaz One Bangkok (also in One Bangkok), its first Andaz property in Thailand.
So whether you plan to eat your way around the capital, or can't wait to try one of the new hotels, it's safe to say that Bangkok is having a moment.
Bali’s SAKA Museum has been named one of the World’s Most Beautiful Museums 2025 by Prix Versailles. Prix Versailles is a French award that champions cultural expression, architectural excellence and intelligent sustainability.
The museum opened last year in the grounds of AYANA Bali in Jimbaran and has already established itself as one of Indonesia’s foremost cultural institutions. The museum hopes to encourage cultural engagement through exhibitions and permanent collections in its vast open-air and indoor settings that spotlight Bali’s traditions, beliefs, arts and culture.
The museum offers complimentary visits to schools with the hope of fostering a deeper understanding of Balinese heritage in generations to come.
You don’t have to head off into the wilds of Asia to discover the native wildlife. One of Vietnam’s foremost beachside properties, InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort, is home to a haven of creatures, including the last remaining populations of red-shanked douc langurs.
These cheeky monkeys thrive in the forests of Son Tra Peninsula, where the resort covers 39 lush acres. Local naturalist and former national park guide Trung Quân leads a raft of environmental projects at the resort to help protect this critically-endangered species. Guests can get involved too, taking part in a Wildlife Expedition around the property or helping to build ‘monkey bridges’ to allow the monkeys to cross safely between their treetop homes without exposure to predators on the ground.
Macau’s popular aquatic show, ‘House of Dancing Water’, is back in the City of Dreams. The show was cancelled in 2020 due to the Covid pandemic but relaunched earlier this spring with new sequences and audience participation.
House of Dancing Water premiered in 2010 using a 270-degree amphitheatrestyle setting with hydraulic platforms, state-of-the-art lighting and advanced water systems for a fun family event.
According to artistic director Giuliano Peparini, the reimagined performance contains “innovative scenes, more characters, special performances and surprises”. There's also a degree of pre-show build-up with cast members interacting with the audience. The acrobatics, dances and water stunts are performed by a cast and crew of 300 people from more than 30 countries.
It’s hoped the return of ‘House of Dancing Water’ will promote the development of arts and culture in Macau.
Update your bucket list with these exciting new family-friendly resorts and hotels
Barefoot living is the order of the day at Cambodia’s latest beach resort. Located on the sandy shores of the secluded Koh Rong peninsula, JATI is an all-villa resort on a private island (but a manageable ten-minute boat ride from the port of Sihanoukville).
Stylish accommodation at the resort runs to one- and two-bedroom Khmer-inspired villas, some with private pools and located on the sand.
Facilities at this delectable destination include a gym, spa and the Seahorse Kids Club, welcoming youngsters with beach adventures and games.
Recreation facilities are being introduced in phases over the frst few months of operation and will eventually include tennis and pickleball, as well as basketball, mini golf, Thai boxing, paddle boarding, kayaking and snorkelling, plus there's bike riding along island trails.
According to the resort owners, JATI has plenty for active families - but also welcomes those wishing simply to relax under a shady tree. The bliss.
Regent Bali Canggu is a new addition to Bali's resort portfolio and sits right on Canggu Beach on the island's southwestern coast.
The sophisticated all-suites and villas beachfront resort boasts fve dining spots, no fewer than nine pools and a Regent Club. Regent Kids, with an indoor and outdoor playground, is slated to open later in the year.
Accommodation has sea or garden views and direct lagoon access. Entry-level studio suites feature oasis bathrooms with hand-
carved teak bathtubs and rain showers.
Meanwhile, the two-bedroom penthouse Oceanfront includes a private infnity pool, fully equipped kitchen and terrace overlooking the Indian Ocean.
The frst-ever Regent-branded spa will also open at the property later this year. The space includes seven treatment rooms, a sauna, plunge pool and a ‘Beauty Hub’ with services for hands, feet and face. The Health Club features a mat-based studio for yoga and a spacious gym.
Rosewood Miyakojima’s managing director is particularly looking forward to introducing guests to the local turtle population. The resort's environmental scientist, Noriko Nakayama, is a turtle expert.
‘I’m especially excited to invite our guests to explore Miyakojima’s ecology and gain a deeper understanding of these creatures that call the island home,” he says.
The glamorous resort sits on a remote peninsula to the south of mainland Japan. Known as the ‘Island of Prayers’, Miyakojima belongs to the Ryukyu archipelago.
The family-friendly resort offers the Rosewood’s signature Rose Buds programme, which caters for newborns and toddlers up to the age of three years with baby care essentials and a babysitting service. For children aged four to 12 years, the Rosewood Explorers Club offers myriad activities themed to the local environment; they can try their hand at crafts like origami, sea glass art and temporary tattoos inspired by ‘hajichi’, Okinawa’s traditional skin art.
Activities take advantage of the stunning location. Swim with turtles on the coral reefs, learn the ancient art of spearfshing, try your hand at ‘togei’, Japanese pottery and ‘adan’, weaving with leaves, or a host of other traditional Japanese arts.
Far from the madding crowds in the Gulf of Siam
Where to go, what to do, where to stay in Vietnam (pictured)
Full steam ahead in Thailand's oldest national park
Escape the crowds on Cambodia’s dreamy Koh Rong peninsula. Carolynne Dear relaxes into (private) island life
I’m foating in the Gulf of Thailand, snorkel mask pushed aside, the sun creating a million sparkling diamonds around me on a sea that swells gently in the breeze. The serenity would be absolute were it not for the busy buzz of cicadas coming from the nearby island off which our lonely dive boat is moored. The driver appears to have nodded off in the morning sunshine.
Cambodia’s Koh Rong peninsula is a world away from the busy dive sites I’ve been used to in the tourist hotspots of Southeast Asia. Where multiple boats vie for position in bays flled with bobbing snorkelers, the whiff of two-stroke heavy in the air, today’s snorkel spot is blissfully deserted. After a while, I clamber aboard and we putt-putt our way to another
empty bay. The marine life is abundant; sergeant majors and angelfsh fit between rainbow wrasse and parrot fsh, as tiny ‘nemos’ delicately dance through anemone. Much later, we pull up on a stunning white sand beach where tiffn tins of salad and skewers and curry and rice are conjured up from the depths of our small boat. After lunch there’s time for one more swim in the crystal waters before clambering back on the boat and heading for home.
I’m staying on the stunning Song Saa Private Island, an eco-resort in the Koh Rong archipelago and a 50-minute speedboat ride from Sihanoukville on Cambodia’s compact coastline. Gliding into the resort is a little akin to arriving on a Maldivian atoll, from the welcoming staff proffering welcome drinks, to the palm trees leaning picturesquely over the tiny white sand beach. The resort is the last word
in luxury. My accommodation on the sandy island is a beautifully designed wooden villa overlooking the ocean. The generous villa features a huge four-poster bed and a relaxing lounge area that leads through bi-fold doors to a plunge pool and terrace and loungers overlooking the sea on a tiny section of private beach. There are indoor and outdoor rain showers as well as a huge tub overlooking the sea. The luxe factor is amped up further still with a free-fow drinks and snacks fridge flled with bubbles, beers, savoury bites and homemade biscuits.
Song Saa is the brainchild of Melita Koulmandas, an Australian stylist turned Cambodia-based resort owner. After moving to Phnom Penh in the early 2000s, a friend regaled her with stories of a string of untouched islands off the coast. Unable to locate them on a map, she decided nevertheless to check them out, and after a long drive from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville (this was in the days before the Phnom PenhSihanoukille expressway) and an equally long journey in a hired fshing boat helmed by a skeptical boat driver, she fnally reached the Koh Rong archipelago and the tiny, junglecovered heart-shaped islands of Koh Oeng and Koh Bong.
"THERE ARE PLENTY OF FUN ACTIVITIES FOR CHILDREN TO JOIN IN WITH, FROM CRAFT AND TREASURE HUNTS, TO DIVING, WAKEBOARDING, SAILING AND KAYAKING"
“It was such an adventure,” she recalls. “We slept on beaches, went fshing and met the fve little communities living out there.” However, all was not as paradisical as it seemed. Dynamite fshing had destroyed the reefs. Overfshing had led to the clearing of the islands’ rainforests to create lands for crops and livestock grazing. The coral was
clogged from the fshing boats emptying their bilge tanks. Plastic rubbish was knee-deep in places as there were no means of disposing of it. In a word, the eco-system was a mess and many locals wanted to move back to the mainland.
But Koulmandas was smitten by these two tiny islands and decided to buy them from the government. What followed was years of hard work. The plastic was cleared, bagged up and taken to the mainland for disposal, a solid waste system was installed and the country’s frst marine protection zone was established and amazingly within just 18 months fsh stocks were back. The resort now employs a full-time marine biologist to monitor marine life and report back to the government within the two mile fshing exclusion zone around the islands.
At frst, the clean-up was privately funded by Koulmandas, but in 2005 she took the decision to establish a tourist resort on the islands and set up the Song Saa Foundation. Her goal was to establish a high-end, low room-count resort in harmony with the natural surroundings. Conservation experts were drafted in to advise on construction methods that wouldn’t harm the local ecology and marine life and Koulmandas designed
"WE MOOR OFF A STUNNING WHITE SAND BEACH WHERE TIFFIN TINS OF CURRY AND RICE ARE CONJURED UP FROM THE DEPTHS OF OUR DIVE BOAT"
absolutely everything herself, from the sustainable material villa buildings to the rugs on the foor.
Today, the resort offers 27 ocean, jungle and overwater villas, all with private pools. The villas are sustainably constructed, from the energy effcient thatched roofng and furniture made from driftwood collected on local beaches, to the locally made, hand-crafted furniture and the wooden foors laid with timber salvaged from factories and warehouses around Cambodia and Thailand.
The staff are endlessly creative with their presentation of facilities on the far-fung islands. Each morning a paper
scroll is left on the bed letting me know where dinner will be served that evening. On the frst night I pad barefoot along the overwater boardwalk to the resort’s main restaurant, an open air dining space with a candlelit table ready to greet me. On my second night I dined at the resort pool, my table set up in shallow, ankle-deep water. On my fnal night, I enjoyed a sunset meal on the sand by the Driftwood Bar. I feast on Khmerinfuenced dishes, with breads baked on-site, fsh locally caught in the surrounding waters and veggies grown on the islands. Each evening as the inky night descends I am led back to my villa along sandy paths by a torchbearing member of staff.
The days drift away, either cooling off in the stunning resort infnity pool, lazing on the tiny resort beaches or simply reading on my lounger back at the villa. One day is spent snorkelling the bays of Koh Rong island and on another I kayak through mangroves forests.
Families are warmly welcomed at Song Saa. Children are invited to enjoy the ‘Children’s Corner’ housed in a little hut in the jungle. There are plenty of fun activities for older children to join in with, from diving and snorkelling to wakeboarding, sailing, kayaking and tubing. Little ones can take part in island treasure hunts organised by the staff and the main pool has
I few to Phnom Penh with Cathay Pacifc. Song Saa Private Island arranged a driver to meet me at my Phnom Penh hotel and took the new and extremely effcient Phnom PenhSihanoukville expressway (approximately two-and-a-half hours) to Sihanoukville. At the Sihanoukville port I waited in the private Song Saa welcome lounge until it was time to transfer to the speedboat and the 50-minute journey to Song Saa.
shallow areas for youngsters to splash in. The restaurants cater to families with childfriendly menus and babysitting is available on request.
On my last afternoon I’m taken over to the main island of Koh Rong for an introduction to the Song Saa Foundation’s work supporting the local stilted fshing village of Prek Svay with healthcare initiatives and education programmes.
The foundation’s work is divided broadly into three categories, water, people and land. Medical missions, education programmes and organic farming support are lent to local communities. In 2013, the foundation launched a ‘Boat of Hope’ which travels around communities providing medical care. On land, restoration and conservation initiatives support mangrove and rainforest systems in the archipelago and a solid waste management programme
at Prek Svay village.
So far, the foundation has launched 68 Boat of Hope missions, reaching more than 5,500 people and distributing just short of 10,000 educational materials, such as stationery, vitamins, toothbrushes and solar lamps. Much of the foundation’s funding comes from donations and sponsorships.
Visiting Prek Svay village is a must during a visit to Song Saa to better understand what the foundation is trying to achieve and is a fascinating peak into Cambodian coastal life. It’s also a great way of introducing your own children to a very different way of life to their own.
Unfortunately all good things had to come to an end and soon I was back on the speedboat surging its way to Sihanoukville.
Asia Family Traveller was a guest of Song Saa Private Island.
The stunning Southeast Asian country boasts heaps of culture as well as beautiful beaches and knock-out hotels and resorts (not to mention delicious food and coffee!). Get the best out of your next family trip with our exclusive guide, says Carolynne Dear
Vietnam’s busy capital will keep you on your toes. There’s plenty to see and do - just watching the never-ending stream of cyclos, motorbikes and mopeds pour down the city streets is mesmerising enough.
The century-old Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel Hanoi sits in the heart of Hanoi’s old city and is a recognised heritage landmark.
It first opened its doors in 1901 as the Grand Metropole Hotel when Hanoi was the most important city in French Indochina, a colony that covered Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Historic moments include it becoming the first hotel in Hanoi to boast street lighting and the property was generally regarded as a luxurious, if expensive, place to stay. Notable guests include film stars, celebrities, ambassadors and royalty; Charlie Chaplin spent his honeymoon here and Francois Mitterand, Jacques Chirac, Catherine Deneuve and Angelina Jolie have all stayed. In 2019 it served as the venue for a second meeting between US president Donald Trump and North Korea’s Kim Jong Un.
Ensuring its glamorous legacy continues, the Metropole has recently emerged from an extensive refurbishment. The meticulous renovation of the Heritage Wing was part of a 21-month construction project. Original fixtures
Hanoi has a rich history; it has been the capital of Vietnam for almost a thousand years, with most Vietnamese dynasties leaving their mark. The name ‘Hanoi’ means ‘inside the river’ and the city is indeed
bordered by the Red and Black Rivers.
When the French took control of Vietnam in 1888, Hanoi became the capital of all of French Indochina and one of the most important cities in the region. As a result of this abundant heritage, the city hosts more cultural sites than any other in Vietnam.
To this day it retains a strong French influence which is evident in both its architecture and cuisine. Head to the French Quarter for elegant French buildings and wide, leafy boulevards. The Hanoi Opera House and the Presidential Palace are both prime examples of French colonial architecture in the city.
Hanoi underwent rapid development after the Vietnam war but favourably for the city, the government implemented a low-rise policy around Hoàn Kiem Lake in the heart of the city. Take a stroll around the lake, or plunge into the labyrinth of laneways that make up the Old Quarter, with traditional shops and landmarks that date back to the 14th century.
and fittings have been carefully retained whilst 21st technology has been incorporated into the dynamic. The hotel’s design ethic elegantly melds romantic French Indochina with Asian elegance; guests are welcomed by staff in chic, velvet ao dai beneath whirring wooden fans, while Vietnamese coffees and French pastries are served in the hotel’s Parisian-style street cafe (also the location of that historic street lamp).
This family-friendly hotel offers connecting rooms, babysitting services and child-friendly menus. The outdoor pool is also suitable for children. Perhaps the most memorable family experience is the historic tour of the underground bunker, whereby guests are led through a warren of bomb shelters and tunnels complete with hard hats. A remnant of the Vietnam War, the bunker lay forgotten until 2011, when it was rediscovered, hidden beneath the Bamboo Bar.
Three hours from Hanoi is Halong Bay, a must-visit destination on any northern Vietnamese holiday itinerary. The area is made up of towering limestone formations that rise from the emerald waters of the bay. Book a cruise - you can sail for a half or full day or head out for a longer stay, sleeping onboard - and explore the magnificent karsts dotted throughout the bay. Discover ancient grottos, view floating fishing villages, snorkel, dive, hike, kayak and even rockclimb. The area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and takes its name from Vietnamese legend. Ha Long means ‘the descending
The brand new InterContinental Halong Bay Resort opens this summer and is positioned as an ideal stay option pre- or post-cruise. The hotel takes its watery design cues from the surrounding area; the lobby is inspired by Vietnam’s traditional bamboo basket boats and rooms featuring turquoise blue
Take a cruise and stay at the new InterContinental Halong Bay
dragon’ and according to myth, a mother dragon and her children soared across the sky releasing jewels and emeralds into
the sea which are said to have shaped the towering limestone karsts that make the area so popular today.
upholstery and textures and hues that replicate rippling water and iridescent pearls. Facilities at the glamorous InterContinental Halong Bay Resort include six dining spaces; signature restaurants feature Roku & Sky Bar on the hotel’s rooftop serving Japanese cuisine, handcrafted cocktails and a sake
Water puppet show
Enjoy this traditional form of Vietnamese theatre that dates all the way back to the 11th century. The Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre is one of the most famous venues in town and shows last around an hour.
Cyclo tour of the Old Quarter
Picking your way around the 36 streets that make up the Old Quarter can be a challenge. For a more relaxed experience (and to give little legs a rest) hire a local cyclo driver - check prices with your hotel concierge before bartering.
Museum of Ethnology
library, and Yulong Mansion, a two-storey venue specialising in modern Cantonese cuisine.
There’s also a spa and ‘recreational programming’, with beach volleyball and archery, a Planet Trekkers kids’ club, a games room with a cinema and three outdoor pools.
There are 54 ethnic groups that make up the Vietnamese population, find out more at this fun and engaging destination with traditional Vietnamese stilt houses to explore and displays highlighting cultural ways of life.
Food tour
Combining walking and eating is a popular way of exploring Hanoi. Book a guide and weave through the city streets, stopping to try Vietnamese delicacies like bun cha (grilled pork and noodles), banh mi (meat and herb-stuffed baguette) and ca phe trung (sweet coffee with egg yolks).
Train Street
A perennial favourite on social media, Hanoi’s Train Street is tucked away in a narrow alleyway of the Old Quarter, not far from Hanoi Railway Station. The railway tracks run through the street, squeezing past houses and cafés, and trains cause quite a stir when they pass through.
Pretty Hoi An is an incredibly well-preserved example of a 15th century Southeast Asian trading port. Its Old Town is UNESCO World Heritage Site-listed and is a fusion of Japanese, Chinese and European influences. It’s particularly renowned for its meandering, bougainvillea-filled laneways and delicious restaurants. The town really comes alive after dark as diners spill onto terraces and lanterns float ethereally along the Thu Bon River.
Explore the Old Town with its pastelhued timber frame houses, pagodas and markets. The surviving wooden structures and street plan remain intact, showcasing a traditional hundreds-year-old townscape. The town continues to function as a trading port and centre of commerce. There is a ban on vehicles in the Old Quarter making it particularly conducive to exploring with children.
Away from the town, families can head to An Bang or Cua Dai beaches, or take a basket boat tour of the canals of the Bay Mau coconut forest. Older children will enjoy the many foodie bicycle tours on offer which take you across town and out to the paddy fields, organic farms and riverside eateries. Many restaurants in Hoi An also offer traditional Vietnamese cooking classes which are a fun way of introducing kids to the local cuisine.
the
lantern-strewn
History-rich Hue sits on the banks of the idyllic-sounding Perfume River. It was the capital of unified Vietnam from 1802 and was the political, cultural and religious centre of the country under the Nguyen Dynasty, Vietnam’s last royal dynasty, which lasted from 1802 until 1945. As such, the city is strewn with UNESCO-designated imperial palaces, temples and tombs.
Visitors head to the Imperial City, a sprawling citadel of the Nguyen Dynasty with a moat, fortified city walls, palaces and shrines. Other sites to see include Thien Mu Pagoda perched on a hill overlooking the river, Dong Ba Market with local crafts and food and Thanh Toan Bridge, a charmingly tile-roofed historic bridge. Boat trips are also available on the Perfume River, known for its fragrant flowers and beautiful scenery. Another highlight is the Incense Village where visitors can view the incense-making process. Hue is 100kms from Danang, a journey of around two-and-a-half hours.
While Hoi An does offer hotel accommodation, the kids might prefer the seaside city of Danang which is no more than an hour from historic Hoi An and offers a plethora of sandy beaches and international resort options.
Marriott Resort & Spa Non Nuoc Beach Villas is an all-villa resort on Danang’s beautiful Non Nuoc beach and just 20 minutes from Danang International Airport. The resort boasts five dining and social venues plus a wide range of leisure activities, including a beachfront pool, spa, kids’ club and two tennis courts.
Accommodation configurations include one-level three-bedroom villas (great for families with young toddlers or elderly grandparents), and two-, three- and four-bedroom duplex villas. The villas are generously-sized and come with sitting and dining areas and a kitchen. Private pool villas are also available. The resort team can prepare fun tent set-ups for kids in the living room.
There’s no shortage of activities to keep the whole family entertained. Apart from the infinity and dedicated family pool, the resort
offers a range of recreational options, from volleyball and water sports on the private beach, as well as cultural experiences such as Vietnamese cooking classes. Little ones can also join the kids’ club, where they can keep busy with fun, supervised activities and make new friends in a safe environment.
As a Marriott property, families can also enjoy the experiences included under the M Passport programme, such as in-villa picnics, beach dancing, coconut leaf art, flower making, fish feeding, and Vietnamese folk games. For each activity, kids can collect a stamp and earn fun treats along the way.
Buzzing Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon, is named for a Vietnamese Communist revolutionary who served as the president of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam from 1945 to 1969. Ho Chi Minh is predominantly known for leading the country’s fight for independence from French colonial rule and against the US in the Vietnam War.
This populous city (it has more inhabitants than Hanoi) offers a wide range of attractions, including many historical landmarks, markets and dining experiences. It’s particularly well known for great coffee stops.
Sites worth the trip include the War Remnants Museum, the Cu Chi Tunnels, Ben Thanh Market and the Independence Palace, formerly the Presidential Palace. Head to Ben Nghe Street Food Market for a smorgasbord of affordable casual dishes. Or for a dose of French Colonial architecture, the Saigon Opera House is a must-see.
One of the best hotels in the city, Park Hyatt Saigon, sits in the heart of the action and is walking distance from
many attractions. This French colonialstyle property was built in the 1950s and served as a US military base during the war. Notable occupants include DJ Adrian Cronauer, who was the inspiration for the
film ‘Good Morning, Vietnam’. The building was renovated and opened as the Park Hyatt Saigon in 2005. The hotel’s al fresco courtyard pool is particularly lovely after a hot day’s sightseeing.
The 75mile-long network of tunnels at Cu Chi is today a war memorial park with two tunnel display sites. The tunnels were the location of several military campaigns during the Vietnam War and were the Viet Cong’s operations’ base for the Tet Offensive in 1968. The tunnels were used by Viet Cong soldiers as hiding spots during combat and also as food and weapon stores, makeshift hospitals and living quarters for North Vietnamese fighters. Today, some tunnels have been enlarged for visitors to explore and low-power lighting has been installed. Various types of booby traps that were used are also on display. The Cu Chi Tunnels are located on the outskirts of Ho Chi Minh City and around 70kms from the city centre.
Cam Ranh, Nha Trang and Phu Quoc Island are all popular beach destinations in Southern Vietnam.
Nha Trang is a good destination if snorkelling and beach days are your family’s thing, with plenty of sand and turquoise waters. Nha Trang was recently voted one of Asia’s most exciting upcoming dive destinations, with plenty of colourful marine life and conservation spaces. The Hon Mun Marine Protected Area boasts clear waters and abundant reef life for divers to explore. For beaches, .Nha Trang city beach is popular, but other sandy strips to explore include Doc Let, Bai Dai, Hong Chong and Robinson beaches. The nearby islands of Hon Lan and Hon Tre are also worth the trip.
Just south of Nha Trang lies Cam Ranh, once a US military base and now opened for tourism. The quaint city is considered an upscale alternative to Nha Trang with golden
sands and family-friendly resorts dotted along a peninsula that faces the South China Sea. Top spots for lazing beside the balmy waters include Bai Dai beach and Binh Lap and Binh La islands.
Fringed with picture postcard white-sand beaches and covered in tropical jungle, Phu Quoc Island in the Gulf of Thailand is quickly becoming the Southeast Asian destination
The Vietage is a luxury train journey between Danang and the small coastal town of Quy Nhon, something of a hidden gem that lies about halfway between Hoi An and Nha Trang.
The Vietage connects Anantara Hoi An Resort with Anantara Quy Nhon Villas and passengers are hosted on the six-hour railway journey in an elegant 12-guest
carriage. The sleek, custom-designed carriage features large picture windows to soak up the Vietnamese views and a sit-up bar. Travellers can enjoy meals, drinks and even a quick massage as they travel along the coast.
This summer, travellers between Danang and Quy Nhon can enjoy a freshly launched three-course menu featuring a Cham Islands
of choice for families seeking an easy fly ‘n’ flop island option. Similar in size to Phuket, Phu Quoc is much less developed but has no shortage of quality accommodation. Once a sleepy backwater, nowadays the island is host to myriad luxury international hotels and dining experiences. JW Marriott Emerald Bay Phu Quoc promises a quirky beachside stay at its Bill Bensley-designed resort.
seafood salad, Quy Nhon sundried beef salad, pan-fried Magret duck breast, braised wagyu beef cheek and Hoi An chicken rice. Then tuck into succulent Dalat strawberries or mango and coconut tiramisu for pud.
Children are welcome onboard and youngsters under four years sharing a seat and a meal with an accompanying adult can travel for free.
InterContinental Khao Yai is a great nature break for families. Carolynne Dear heads to northern Thailand for a trip on the wild side
The glamourous suites are imaginatively created from upcycled train carriages
Acouple of hours outside of Bangkok and the concrete
finally begins to give way to green hills, jungle and fruit farms. Another half-hour and we’re pulling up at InterContinental Khao Yai, a recently-opened lakeside resort in Thailand’s verdant Nakhon Ratchasima province and a stone’s throw from the country’s oldest national park.
It’s a fair distance from the capital and for many visitors, a slightly unusual direction to be heading in given most tourists make a beeline south for Thailand’s beaches when they tire of Bangkok’s pacy city life.
The area’s pull is Khao Yai, the country’s third largest national park with dramatic scenery and myriad hiking, rafting and wildlife spotting opportunities. It’s home to around 350 rare and endangered species; during my short visit I encountered wild elephants as well as monkeys, deer, birds and clouds of shimmering butterflies. An unexpected but entirely welcome attraction is the awardwinning GranMonte vineyard in the lee of
Khao Yai’s rolling hills, but more about that later.
These days an additional reason, or perhaps the reason, for making the journey north is the stunning InterContinental property itself.
Opened in 2023, Bangkok-based designer Bill Bensley has drawn on the local area’s history as a gateway for rail transportation and taken inspiration from the 19th century Pak Chong station nearby to create an unusual, idiosyncratic resort where upcycled vintage rail cars serve as hotel suite accommodation. A plush hotel car is offered for airport pickups but if you want to fully embrace the railway vibe, it’s possible to catch a train from Bangkok’s Don Mueang station to Pak Chong.
Stepping out of the hotel Merc, I’m ushered into the ticket booth-styled reception and invited to ring the large brass bell hanging outside to mark my arrival.
A golf buggy transports me to my suite, a smart lakeside railcar with all mod cons. There are 64 suites and villas dotted across the 100-acre property, the accommodation
“THE HIGHLIGHT OF COURSE IS SLEEPING IN A ‘TRAIN HOTEL’, GREAT BRAGGING RIGHTS FOR KIDS WHEN THEY’RE BACK AT SCHOOL”
picturesquely set around five lakes amongst more than 30,000 trees. My suite features a cute lounge area with sofa, a neatly accommodated bathroom with separate loo and shower and a snowy white bed in the snug bedroom. Outside is a junglefringed balcony with a desk and couch and a luxurious roll top tub under the trees.
Some villas come with a private pool and kids will be enchanted with the railcar bunk rooms.
Bensley admits that upgrading what were
abandoned train carriages into hotel suites has made for uniquely sized guest rooms. The train carriages were unearthed from all over Thailand. Some were found, abandoned in a field for more than half a century, ficus trees taking root on the roofs and twisting their way into the carriages. Others were obtained at public auction.
“The Presidential carriage is the strangest proportioned suite anywhere in the world,” he explains. “It’s two 33m carriages placed backto-back, so it’s 66m long and two-and-a-half metres wide. The ends are the bedrooms but everything else is a walkthrough space.”
My own suite is narrow but cosy. The confines of the carriage have been incredibly well thought-out, with plenty of storage and hanging space and a comfortable lounge area with a coffee table, useful for pre-dinner drinks when the mosquitoes start to nibble outside at dusk. The balcony is spacious and the alfresco tub a decadent touch.
My days begin with a bike ride around the largest of the lakes, soaking up the serenity before heading to Somying’s Kitchen, the all-day, canteen-style restaurant, for a filling
breakfast. The help-yourself buffet table is a generous spread of enticing dishes, from Thai hot and cold options to western bacon, eggs, waffles, pancakes, breads and granolas, and pretty much everything in between.
Hot a la carte options, including customprepared omelettes and eggs benedict, are
“KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK IS HOME TO HUNDREDS OF RARE AND ENDANGERED SPECIES; I SPOTTED MONKEYS, BIRDS, DEER, CLOUDS OF COLOURFUL BUTTERFLIES - AND, INCREDIBLY, A WILD ELEPHANT”
also available. Children will particularly enjoy toasting their breakfast rolls over the mini countertop charcoal barbecues.
For the rest of the day, the local chef serves an inviting menu of northern-Thai influenced dishes, including spicy curries and plantbased and larb salads.
If you’re travelling as a family, there’s lots to entertain children at the resort. The biggest drawcard is of course staying in a ‘train hotel’ (great show-and-tell material for when they’re back at school). The kids’ club, Planet Trekkers, is also located in a rail car and is an Aladdin’s Cave of Lego, games, books and toys. Outside, the club has its own little garden and a rabbit house. The kids’ club organises a heap of fun activities, such as lakeside treasure hunts, model painting and Thai dancing classes. And of course there are the lovely lakes with swans to see and fish to feed. The spa also offers a dinky treatment menu for youngsters.
On my second night I’m invited to join general manager Sandy Liw for dinner at Poirot, the French fine dining rail carriage. We enjoy cocktails in Papillon, an interconnecting Afternoon tea at Papillon
rail car that has been beautifully decked out as a jazz bar, and then head over to Poirot for our meal. The weather is so lovely and cool at this time of year that we opt to eat on the lake-view terrace, enjoying oysters and Iberico pork as the fairy lights twinkle in the trees.
Liw tells me that the hotel has been enormously popular with Bangkok-based weekenders looking to escape the city hustle. Its distance from the capital makes it ideal for a long weekend mini-break. For those travelling from overseas, it’s a tantalising addition to a Bangkok break, offering the opportunity to experience something a little different from Thailand.
The following day I’m booked in for a tour of Khao Yai National Park. The first stop, before we reach the park gates, is the intriguing GranMonte vineyard. I’m shown around by Mimi Lohitnavy who heads up the marketing team at the family-run business. Lohitnavy’s parents bought the 12-acre vineyard in the 1990s and her sister, Nikki, went on to study oenology and viticulture at the University of Adelaide, becoming Thailand’s
first (and only) fully-qualified winemaker. After much hard work and trial and error adapting vines to the tropical climate, the award-winning vineyard now produces syrah (their bestseller), cabernet sauvignon, grenache, chenin blanc, viognier, verdelho and sauvignon blanc, with bubbly offerings including a very good cremant and a sparkling rose. Stop for lunch or a tour and tasting.
Khao Yai National Park itself covers more than 2,000km sq, but in the limited time available, my guided tour took in waterfalls, dramatic views from clifftop precipices, chattering gangs of macaque monkeys, pretty sambar deer and (the highlight of the day) a wild elephant who came lumbering through the refreshment area we’d stopped at mid-afternoon for a drink.
Back at the resort, there’s plenty to keep me busy on my last day. I have a swim in the ‘Tin Can’ pool, enjoy a massage at the Back on Track spa and indulge with afternoon tea at Papillon.
InterContinental Khao Yai is an absolute joy and I fly back to Hong Kong relaxed and refreshed.
Khao Yai is renowned for its stunning natural beauty, from forests and mountains to cascading waterfalls and sweeping views. The UNESCO World Heritage site covers more than 2,000 square kilometres and was established in 1962 as Thailand’s frst national park. It offers a blend of tropical rainforests, grasslands and mountain ranges and is home to more than 350 rare and endangered species. Expect to see sambar and barking deer, gibbons, macaques, porcupines, otters and even the occasional wild Asian elephant.
RXV Wellness Village in Thailand embraces mum, dad, the kids and even the grandparents. Stacey Marcelo relaxes into a four-night programme
Wellness escapes are booming and multi-generational travel is hotter than ever. The dream? A getaway that revitalises parents, engages kids, pampers grandparents and builds happy memories.
But finding a wellness destination that caters to everyone felt like searching for a unicorn. My quest across the region led me to the outskirts of Bangkok and RXV Wellness Village, a transformative haven proving that wellness isn’t just for solo travellers or couples, it’s the new family adventure.
Located in the lush 50-acre Suan Sampran estate, just an hour from Bangkok’s traffic jams, RXV is the sister property to award-winning luxury wellness
retreat RAKxa. Both properties integrate medicine and wellness with a focus on preventive healthcare. Guests can expect a seamless wellness journey that includes health diagnostics, assessments, medical treatments, alternative therapies, energy healing, art therapy and spa services.
While RAKsa has a strict over 16 years policy, the owners went on to create RXV because their guests wanted a place to bring their families along. After four days at RXV, I discovered this is a place where families can escape and reconnect in a setting that blends tailored wellness activities, treatments and experiences with nature.
I arrive in the evening and am greeted with a refreshing welcome drink by attentive and friendly staff. As I step out onto the terrace, a deep relaxation washes over me. My
THE FAMILY WELLNESS PROGRAMME IS A STANDOUT, OFFERING AN INSPIRING GATEWAY TO HEALTH AND MINDFULNESS FOR YOUNGSTERS, TEENS AND THEIR PARENTS
first glimpse of the moonlit Tha Chine, with river plants drifting softly downstream, instantly unlocks a deep-seated calm.
Although RXV opened in 2023, the property has been around for decades, formerly known as The Rose Garden Hotel. According to the staff, it was a popular weekend getaway for Bangkok residents, and I can see why. There is an enduring magic here derived from nature, a sense of peace woven from the gently flowing river, century-old shade and meticulously tended gardens.
After renovations, the property reopened as RXV Wellness Village, complete with
83 rooms, clinics, gyms and treatment rooms alongside workshop spaces.
I am hosted in a generouslysized corner suite with sliding doors opening onto a large wraparound balcony with breathtaking views of the Tha Chin River. Rooms feature interiors inspired by Thai heritage and nature and spacious bathrooms with sunken tubs.
In terms of treatments, RXV truly redefines the family wellness retreat. Moving
far beyond the typical solo/ couple model, RXV Wellness Village offers personalised wellness programmes for every single family member, from grandparents to grandchildren (and not forgetting parents!). Your journey begins with expert guidance from doctors and wellness advisors. Through personalised consultations, the RXV team crafts the perfect blend of treatments, mindful activities, and nutrition for everyone, all underpinned by the philosophy
of ‘Wellness in Harmony’ and aligning mind, body, and lifestyle.
My four-night wellness program kicks off with a prearrival zoom call to discuss my health concerns and goals. Upon my arrival, a wellness advisor runs through a bespoke itinerary which includes daily yoga or stretch classes, a consultation with the resident TCM doctor, a spine analysis, breathwork, facial, crystal mandala workshop and the invigorating Bor Naam hydrotherapy treatment. I tell the
team I’m feeling run-down in the lead up to the trip. They quickly tweak the itinerary to include an immunity boosting IV, acupuncture and the kitchen team makes sure my meals and drinks are not only nourishing but also packed with healing ingredients.
Pro tip: Don’t miss the signature Belly & Gut Massage which aims to soothe digestion while nurturing skin vitality. This is a good treatment to have before a colon hydrotherapy session to maximise the benefits.
When it comes to dining, forget sad kale salads. RXV’s Rainbow Food philosophy turns nutrition into art. Their cuisine celebrates vibrant, locally sourced ingredients, transformed into nutrient-rich dishes that are so delicious, you tend to forget how healthy they are.
On my second day I join Chef Bansani Nawisamphan, affectionately known as Chef Ban, on a visit to the weekend organic market adjacent to the resort where we pick out fresh, seasonal ingredients for lunch. Mealtimes were something I looked forward to, not only for their exquisite presentation, but also for the rich Thai flavours that sparked so much joy.
Rest assured, RXV embraces flexibility. Unlike stricter retreats, indulgences like wine, desserts, and coffee are thoughtfully offered,
Today’s teens face unprecedented pressures – digital overload, academic stress, and constant connectivity leading to anxiety and burnout. Recognising this quiet crisis, RXV Wellness Village has launched the ‘Personalised Teen Wellness Programme’, designed to restore balance and emotional well-being.
A dedicated wellness advisor tailors each journey, addressing specific concerns like exam stress, digital fatigue, sleep issues, or emotional grounding. The programme blends evidence-based and holistic therapies including:
• Thai Pure Nutrient Massage: Herbal compresses to ease head tension and overstimulation.
• Sound therapy and movement: Crystal healing to help regulate the nervous system and Tai Chi/Pilates sharpen mental clarity.
• Hormone and gut support: Gentle Thai/Ayurvedic therapies and treatments to balance gut-brain health.
• Mindful connection: Group meditation, nature walks and flower mandala workshops to encourage digital detox and genuine bonds.
ensuring your wellness journey feels tailored, not deprived. Whatever stage your family is at, RXV’s offering is allencompassing. In line with their principle to care for families at all stages of life, the team has curated women’s wellness journeys. Expectant mothers, those navigating postpartum and women experiencing menopause will find dedicated therapies designed to support their unique transitions. The Family Wellness programme is a standout, offering an inspiring gateway to health and mindfulness for children, teens, and their parents. Kids might be mastering coordination and balance through fun junior neuromuscular exercise (think plyometrics and agility games), experiencing their first crystal healing session, or learning calming techniques. Teens can take a functional strength assessment
EVEN CHILDREN CAN EXPERIENCE THE BLISS OF SPECIALLY TAILORED MASSAGES LIKE THAI, AYURVEDIC, OR A SOOTHING GOOD NIGHT SLEEP MASSAGE
to understand their physical potential. Engaging cultural workshops are also on offer, like Thai handicraft san pla-ta-pien weaving or natural clay moulding. And yes, even children (aged nine years and over) can experience the bliss of specially tailored massages like Thai, Ayurvedic, or a soothing Good Night Sleep massage.
So is RXV Village a cureall? Maybe not. But for families craving connection over screens and joy over schedules, RXV isn’t just a retreat, it’s a reset button.
A three-night package at RXV Wellness Village Sampran costs from 54,900 THB including full board accommodation, a personalised treatment plan and access to all wellness classes and hydrotherapy facilities.
Asia Family Traveller was a guest of RXV Wellness Village.
The cases are packed, the rental contract is signed - but now the hard work really begins. Carolynne Dear explores how to choose an international school when moving to a new city
Selecting a school can be one of the most stressful parts of an international move. Where the kids spend their time every weekday in a new city is perhaps the most important decision you will make, other than opting to move in the first place.
Big Asian cities like Hong Kong and Singapore offer a huge range of international school options and curricula, which is a positive in that there’s plenty of choice, but the myriad options can be overwhelming.
In Hong Kong, there are currently 54 international schools officially listed by the Education Bureau, although the total number of schools offering an international curriculum is estimated to be nearer to 80, a figure that includes formally designated international schools as well as private independent schools offering an international-style curriculum.
In Singapore, there are around 80 international schools catering to a diverse student population, with British, International Baccalaureate, American, Indian and more curricula offered. Singapore’s international schools are renowned for their high academic standards which often exceed the global average.
International schools differ from local educational institutions in that they cater to the needs of international and expat families based away from home. An international school education can provide many benefits.
Dominique McNeill is director of Admissions at Kellett School, the British International School in Hong Kong.
“Like other international schools in Hong Kong, we adhere to a quota on the number of children we can offer places to and so primarily we cater to the needs of international and expat families,” she explains. “We currently have more than 40 different nationalities represented across the school. Given the international makeup of
our families, students are exposed to global issues and multi-cultural learning, as well as different languages, values and beliefs.”
So how do you start the search?
Educational professionals emphasise the need to thoroughly investigate schools based on the educational needs and preferences of your child. Think about curriculum type, is it important to you that your child is educated in an American or British system? Then look at the learning style of the school and what sort of extracurricular activities they offer. Perhaps there’s a particular sport your child is interested in, for example. Is this offered by the school?
Location and transport options are your next important considerations. In Hong Kong,
many schools are served by a school bus network, but is there a school bus stop near to your accommodation? How long does the journey take and where does your bus stop fall on the timetable? If you’re living on Hong Kong Island and the school is in Kowloon, it’s worth considering traffic times as jams can occur crossing the harbour. Some parents admit to having caught the school bus themselves to assess the viability of the journey.
Once you know you’re moving to a new city, start researching schools straight away, advises Pauline Dear, head of Admissions at the Australian International School Hong Kong
(AISHK).
“After shortlisting a few options, reach out to the school directly to ask about admissions procedures, available places and waitlists,” she says. “Whenever possible, arrange to visit the school in person to get a sense of the environment and community. This can be invaluable in making the right choice,” she says.
Asia’s international schools can have extremely long waiting lists. McNeill recommends reaching out to the school before submitting the application to check on place availability for the year groups you are
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Every school operates a slightly different waitlist system; Kellett School accepts applications for entry into the Prep School from birth and from two years in advance for Senior School. Waitlists are arranged by priority, starting with sibling preference, corporate debenture holders and children of alumni, and then all other applications by date of application. AISHK meanwhile gives priority to Australian and New Zealand passport
holders, as well as siblings of current students and children of alumni. “We value strong community connections and aim to support families with existing ties to the school wherever possible,” adds Dear.
When you’ve narrowed things down and arranged a visit, usually through the admissions department, it’s often a good idea to bring your child along to get a feel for the school, although this may not always be possible if the application is being made from overseas.
“Some families may choose to visit Hong Kong prior to their relocation,” says Dear. “We warmly encourage and welcome school visits
during this initial ‘look-see’ trip as visiting in person can provide valuable insight into the school environment and help families feel more confident in their decision.”
She adds that AISHK hosts regular campus tours to showcase the school in action. Such tours provide prospective families with an insight into daily life at the school and parents also have the opportunity to speak with the head of primary and head of secondary.
McNeill also recommends an in person visit where possible. “The application and any assessments can be conducted from overseas and online videos are available for those not already based in Hong Kong. But in
person visits are always recommended where possible,” she says.
Registration at Kellett School opens when the school returns from summer break in late August, with open evenings on September 24 at the Pok Fu Lam campus and September 25 at the Kowloon Bay campus. “It’s worth noting that these evenings do get oversubscribed,” adds McNeill.
Removing your child from a home environment into an international setting can seem daunting, but remember that school staff are professionals and have welcomed vast numbers of overseas students.
“Both our students and teachers are used to new children joining the school,” says McNeill. “We arrange an induction session for all new students before they start so they can meet their new teacher and familiarise themselves with the new school. We also arrange a class ‘buddy’ for all new students.”
At the end of the day, as McNeill points out, it’s worth explaining to your child they’re joining a very diverse community where many children are not in their home country. “Generally, students are very open to forging new friendships.”
Australian International School Hong Kong, 3A Norfolk Road, Kowloon Tong, Hong Kong; Kellett School, 2 Wah Lok Path, Wah Fu, Pok Fu Lam and 7 Lam Hing Street, Kowloon Bay, Hong Kong.
French chef Christian Le Squer reveals the challenges behind serving up Michelin-starred restaurants on opposite sides of the planet. By Carolynne Dear
Celebrated French chef Christian Le Squer is dressed down in tee-shirt and running shorts when I sit down to meet him in Danang, Vietnam. He tells me he’s off for a gym session once our interview is concluded. Commuting regularly between Paris and Vietnam, he has developed a strict routine to manage the time difference and the jet-lag and keep him at the top of his game.
“Physically, it’s a demanding profession,” he tells me through a translator (he speaks little English and my French is not quite fluent enough to decipher the intricacies of Michelin-level cuisine). “Keeping fit enables me to do my job to the best of my ability.”
Discipline is important for Le Squer, who has maintained an impressive three-
Michelin-star status at Le Cinq at Paris’ Four Seasons George V Hotel for more than two decades, and has now branched out to become consultant chef at La Maison 1888, the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Danang.
La Maison is set within the grounds of the sprawling five-star InterContinental Sun Peninsula Danang property, a grand dining spot commanding stellar views from its terrace over the Gulf of Thailand. This is the first time Le Squer has ventured beyond his Parisian kitchens. He travels out to Vietnam around once a month, spending a week overseeing the restaurant and liaising with chef de cuisine, Florian Stein, who worked under Le Squer’s predecessor, Pierre Gagnaire. He is fastidious with detail, from kitchen to dining room.
“On my first evening, I dine at La Maison,” he says. “I check on everything, the service, the set-up, the wines. The next day, I start work.”
Recipes are created in Paris and then it’s up to Stein and the team to source local ingredients and pull the dishes together in Vietnam.
“On my first day, Florian and I head to the local market together, we have lunch in whichever restaurant is currently popular, then we return to La Maison.”
Maintaining Michelin-level cuisine requires an unending attention to detail and Le Squer compares his role to that of a haute couturier or perfumier. Intense research goes into every ingredient, some Vietnamese equivalents work, some don’t.
“At the end of the day, diners come to La Maison expecting French Parisian cuisine and that is what they must get,” he explains. Vietnamese asparagus, for example, is much too small and so French plants are used.
When he first took over at La Maison, he and his team spent the first month reproducing what they knew from Paris. But once he’d accustomed himself to the new environment, he started to experiment with local produce
and the La Maison team was afforded a freer reign.
“The produce in Vietnam is incredible, particularly the quality of the seafood and the sheer abundance of vegetables and herbs,” he says. “In terms of ingredients, it’s an incredibly interesting country.
“I have a great team here. Sometimes they come to me with ideas and then it’s up to me to analyse and figure out how to make them work,” he says.
For Le Squer, it’s important that the cuisine is continually moving.
“The seasonal element is interesting. Obviously heavier, winter dishes from Paris don’t work so well here.”
Further challenges have arrived in the form of humidity levels, particularly with regards yeast with the bread baking.
The previous evening when I’d dined at La Maison there had apparently been issues with the flaxseed for the rolls. Le Squer admits it’s also difficult to source high quality bread flour in Vietnam.
He has also had to reduce the salt content in his dishes to match Asian tastes (“apparently we oversalt in France”) and there has been a degree of experimentation with recipes.
Vietnamese watercress turned out to be too strong and wild in flavour, so spinach was added to maintain the taste of the Paris dish. Vietnamese basil, too, was found to be much stronger than the French equivalent.
“There’s a degree of tinkering and sourcing of replacement ingredients to reproduce the taste as precisely as possible,” he says.
Dining at La Maison is a sublime experience. Each course is delivered to my crisply naped and draped table on gorgeous porcelain and glassware, with explanations from Stein. I’m invited to enjoy the Michelin Dinner Set Menu, starting with amuse bouches, moving
onto Perigord black truffle and gnocchi, a gleaming plate of foie gras en galets, Parisianstyle gratinee d’oignons, lamb with vegetable ravioli and Vietnamese ‘ot sung xanh’ sauce and a malt whisky and chocolate ice cream in a hazelnut crisp. As Stein conjures up delectable dish after delectable dish, Le Squer works the room, conversing courteously with the (predominantly French-speaking) clientele.
Back in France, Le Squer’s timetable is equally rigorous. He lands, he says, at 7.30am having not eaten at all on the flight. By 9.30 he is home and immediately heads out to the gym. And then he’s back at work. Both destinations have their charms and from the main dining room at La Maison we watch a monkey swing through the trees outside as we finish our coffees and end the interview.
“It’s a rare opportunity to work in a place like this,” Le Squer admits.
InterContinental Sun Peninsula Danang is certainly a special place and ranks among the best resorts in Southeast Asia, but add-in a Michelinstarred restaurant, and you’ve created something very special indeed.
The bistro is booming as the city’s Gallic gastronomes seek sustenance in classic French fare. Carolynne Dear and Gayatri Bhaumic tuck in
Hong Kong’s plush Mandarin Oriental hotel recently unveiled plans for a new dining spot. Given the city’s recent classic French dining swerve, it is perhaps no surprise that the much sought-after space on the 25th level of the LANDMARK PRINCE’s building in Central is to be… a French bistro.
Terrace Boulud is slated to open in January next year under the watch of chef Daniel Boulud, who also helms the eponymous New York Michelin-starred restaurant, Daniel. Terrace Boulud will see him reinterpret classic French bistro favourites with a contemporary twist and complemented by Asian-inspired creations.
Marmo Bistro at Rosewood Hong Kong
Hong Kong is in fact home to Asia’s largest French community, with an estimated 25,000 French citizens living in the city. And this year has seen something of a tidal wave of new French dining options.
As with most of the rest of the world, French fare has always fared well in Hong Kong. Dining institutions can be found throughout the city, from the legendary three-Michelinstarred Caprice at Four Seasons Hotel, to Michelin-starred Gaddi’s at The Peninsula and one-Michelin-starred Louise in Sheung Wan.
The new Mandarin spot is part of the hotel’s million-dollar revamp which will see public spaces, guest rooms, spa and dining facilities all receiving a major upgrade. Terrace Boulud’s sky-high location, renowned for its killer city views, was formerly home to the popular dining and cocktail destination SEVVA, operated for more than a decade by Hong Kong celebrity and entrepreneur, Bonnae Gokson.
Also causing waves is the rapid expansion of Black Sheep Restaurants’ popular French
steak frites joint, La Vache. The concept here is simplicity - think straight forward French salad (leaves, walnuts, vinaigrette dressing), steak to your liking and bottomless frites. Simple, but a sellout. Black Sheep recently
opened a fourth venue on Victoria Peak and a ffth space is rumoured to be launching in Central later this year.
Black Sheep has stretched its bistro credentials further still with the recent launch of art deco-style French bistro, Jean-Pierre.
The Sheung Wan restaurant takes the place of another Hong Kong stalwart, this time Oolaa on Bridges Street, a popular dining and party spot opened in 2009 by the late great Wayne Parftt, founder of the city’s Castelo Concepts restaurant group. Oolaa closed its doors for the fnal time in 2018 and the location has been vacant ever since.
Again, big boots to fll but Jean-Pierre appears to be managing it with aplomb. The menu here is a little more involved than La Vache and is crammed with bistro classics. Guests are invited to tuck into indulgent renditions of steak tartare, escargots de Bourgogne, pâté de foie de volaille, steak frites and sole meunière, with accompaniments like haricots verts and gratin dauphinois. On the pud menu there’s crème caramel, profteroles,
mousse au chocolat and a tarte de Saint-Tropez. The vibe is a buzzy rendition of Paris in the 1920s and 30s, the golden age of bistro dining.
LALA Hong Kong opened late last year in the city’s popular SoHo district, again serving bistro dishes. Founders Franckelie Laloum and Michael Larkin have created a menu that draws on Laloum’s years of experience in France whilst giving dishes light Asian twists. LALA’s point of difference is its Vol au Vent Lala. Last seen on a 1980s party buffet, the vol au vent has been deliciously resurrected by the LALA team as a generous round of crisp pastry flled with tasty morel mushrooms foating in a thick, rich gravy. This, along with the praline pastry on the dessert platter, makes LALA more than worth the trip.
And the bistro hotspots keep on coming; A Poêle opened in Quarry Bay earlier this year, offering “honest French cooking”; think French onion soup, escargots, beef tartare, steamed mussels, beef cheek bourguignon and steak frites. Pear tarte tatin, crème brûlée and an assiette de
fromages top the pudding menu. And Hong Kong’s Rosewood hotel launched Marmo Bistro at the beginning of the year. The focus is - again - simple, authentic cooking using fresh ingredients in modern renderings of classic French plates. For that reason, the menu is short, with just 18 dishes and fve sides. Our tasting included an oozing gratinée à l’oignon, sole meunière, côte Ibérique and a
THIS YEAR HAS SEEN SOMETHING OF A TIDAL WAVE OF NEW FRENCH DINING OPTIONS
very good tarte tropézienne.
A slight twist on the French bistro theme comes with recently opened Le Colvert in Sai Ying Pun. The restaurant is making its name serving a classic - but hard to fnd - French duck dish, canard à la presse. Normally the preserve
of fne-dining institutions, pressed duck is something of a culinary spectacle - which is why it is so diffcult to come by - where the duck’s juices are pressed out tableside and added to a rich sauce which is served with the meat. Le Colvert imports meaty, free-range ducks from Challans in western France. The dish can be eye-wateringly expensive given the expertise required synchronising the theatrics at the table with the meat still roasting in the kitchen, but Le Colvert aims to make the famous dish more approachable by serving it in a relaxed, bistro setting.
Rounding things off is French
cheese specialist, Roucou, a French/Japanese hybrid bistro that opened this spring in SoHo. Fromager Jeremy Evrard showcases cheeses in inventive formats from a convivial bar with an eight-seat omakasestyle counter. As well as cheese boards, Evrard serves hot plates like melted open artichoke sandwiches with a puff pastry base and a gooey Brie de Meaux and mushroom dip. Diners can pair bites with Japanese-inspired cocktails.
It seems you can’t keep a great gastronomic nation down. Vive la France - and vive le French bistro.
• La Vache, 48 Peel Street, Central; 12 Hart Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui; Shop 007 LG1, Pacifc Place; and Shop 2, 1/F, The Peak Tower, The Peak.
• Jean-Pierre, 9 Bridges Street, Central.
• LALA Hong Kong, 29 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central.
• A Pôele, Shop G514, G/F, Hing On Mansion, 5 Tai Yue Avenue, Tai Koo Shing.
• Marmo Bistro, Rosewood, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.
• Le Colvert, Shop 3, 321 Des Voeux Road West, Sai Ying Pun.
• Roucou, 28 Aberdeen Street, Central.
There aren’t many vineyards in the world that have to repair their vines after a visit from wandering elephants.
However, GranMonte, in northern Thailand, can make just such a claim.
“There’s not much you can do to stop them,” admits Mimi Lohitnavy, daughter of the wine label’s founders. “I mean, look at the size of them. They did once have a munch on the grapes, but I don’t think they liked them very much.” Fortunately elephants trampling the vines isn’t a common occurrence, although a herd did turn up during the flming of the vineyard’s promotional video, which has resulted in some dramatic footage for visitors.
Lohitnavy heads up GranMonte’s marketing
team at the award-winning vineyard on the edges of Thailand’s two thousand square kilometre Khao Yai National Park. Traditionally this might be thought of as an unlikely location for a vineyard, but it turns out socalled ‘new latitude’ wines are making quite a splash these days.
A true family affair, Lohinavy’s older sister, Nikki, is responsible for making the wine. Nikki graduated in oenology in 2008 at the University of Adelaide, Australia, before returning to the family vineyard in northern Thailand as the country’s only fully-qualifed winemaker. She is the oenologist, winemaker and general manager at the family estate and a world-leading expert on tropical viticulture.
Grapes were frst introduced into Thailand during the reign of King Narai in the 17th
century when Louis XIV of France sent vine specimens. However, the grapes were used as fruit until the 20th century, when a wine industry began to develop.
Creating the GranMonte wines has been an experimental affair. Although technically the vineyard is in a hot and humid area of the world not considered conducive to vine cultivation, the local microclimate is actually cool and dry owing to the sloping hills of the Asoke Valley that cradles the GranMonte estate. The vineyard sits around 350m above sea level and, as it turns out, is perfectly located for growing high-quality grapes for winemaking.
Nevertheless, establishing a vineyard in the tropics was a bold move, agrees Mimi. The land, originally used for corn and cashew crops, was bought by Mimi’s parents, Visooth and Sakuna, in the 1990s and work immediately began transforming it into one of
Thailand’s frst vineyards. It took a lot of trial and error and hard work studying vines and soil types and then crossing their fngers and importing the vines from around the world.
The vineyard was offcially opened in 2009 and today produces around 120,000 bottles a year with a view to raising that fgure to 300,000 over the next few years. GranMonte has won hundreds of awards (including Best Wine From South East Asia at the Hong Kong International Wine and Spirit Competition 2023) and has been named Best National Producer - Thailand at Europe’s foremost international wine competition, AWC Vienna, no fewer than four times.
Estate-cultivated grape varieties include syrah (their best-seller), cabernet sauvignon, chenin blanc, viognier, semillon, verdelho and grenache. The estate also produces a crement, a rose, a sparkling rose and a housemade grappa.
The wines from GranMonte are technically
referred to as ‘New Latitude Wines’, in that they are made from grapes grown in areas of the world previously believed to be unfavourable for wine production. These areas are above the 50 degree latitude and below the 30 degree latitude (this measurement refers to either hemisphere). And wine growers in these areas are proving that vines are more adaptable than previously thought; if you plant vines in a new environment, chances are they will conform to the changed conditions.
Visitors are shown round the boutique estate by electric buggy. We pass meticulously maintained and labelled rows of vines including the oldest, 24-year-old chenin blanc vines and the more recently planted experimental rows of Portuguese alvarinho grapes. Roses decorate the beginning of each vine row, not for their aesthetics, but
as a frst indicator of disease. The estate even has its own weather station for Nikki to keep a careful eye on humidity, rain and temperature.
Tour over, we’re led into the Asoke Valley Winery to see where the magic happens; Mimi carefully walks us through the winemaking process, from fermentation to oak barrel-ageing.
Finally, we’re taken to the Montino Cellar Door tasting room where we have the opportunity to taste four premium GranMonte wines paired with cheese and crackers.
Visitors can also have lunch at the onsite restaurant, VinCotto, and the estate also offers cottages in the vineyards if you fancy an overnight stay. At harvest time in February guests are invited to get involved picking the grapes and joining in with the harvest events and festivities. Winter has been chosen as the optimum time of year to harvest the grapes as it avoids the rainy season and the heat. The grapes are picked at night when it’s cooler.
After 25 years of hard work, GranMonte is these days exporting its wines to the fnest dining tables. One-Michelin-starred Potong and Michelin Guide Restaurant Nusara, who ranked at 17 and six respectively at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024, are just two Bangkok-based restaurants that have GranMonte on their wine lists.
GranMonte is a fascinating insight into the world of Thai wine and a must if you’re visiting the Khao Yai region of Thailand.
Asia Family Traveller was a guest of GranMonte vineyard.
Bill Bensley is the American architect, artist and creative force behind more than 200 hotels in 50 countries. He reveals his best ever breaks
Most memorable childhood holiday?
When I was about ten years old, we drove for a month with a small trailer that my father had made, from southern California to Yellowstone National Park. We made a big loop through Arizona, Nevada, Utah and Idaho and then returned through Washington State, Oregon and Yosemite. That was an amazing trip. Not many people visited the parks in the ‘60s.
What’s your favourite city break and where do you stay?
We love Kyoto in the off-season staying at Hoshinoya.
Where do you head to relax?
I can relax when I'm dead. What I enjoy most is discovery. And the places I enjoy most are almost always the wilderness. Mongolia has captured my heart and we have been several times with groups of friends and design staff from Bangkok. This totally off-grid experience allows my brain to reboot. I also love going to places I’ve never been before.
Which item do you never travel without?
My sketch book.
Where’s your favourite restaurant and what do you order?
It’s a tiny shophouse near Hang Dong in Chiang Mai that serves ONLY smoked kuay teow with vegetables. It’s divine, Michelin quality, but only 50 baht a plate.
Stainless steel tables and stools. Dogs welcome. Closed on Sundays.
What’s your perfect holiday?
My perfect holiday is all about stringing together a great number of interesting places we’ve never been to. Besides the wilderness (Congo is my favourite), we enjoy ancient tiny towns and settlements. Once, we spent three weeks in Bolivia where we concentrated solely on visiting the Jesuit missions of the 16th and 17th centuries. I am fascinated by the way the indigenous people use these significant buildings today. Last year we visited all five Stans by train. This year we’ll see the ancient cities and missions of Belize, Chiapas and Guatemala. Having now visited 105 countries, research is critical (and enjoyable) to finding next year’s adventure.
What does luxury mean to you?
The traditional idea of hotel luxury,
like Frette sheets and a lobby full of flowers changed every two-and-a-half minutes, is just not enough anymore. For me, luxury is comfortably enjoying the wilderness in solitude. Luxury is being awakened by the clammer of bird calls in the morning. Luxury is swimming naked under a waterfall. Luxury is being capable of helping the less fortunate.
Relaxing spa massage or a day exploring?
Exploring, hands down.
How did you end up in Thailand?
I got started in design and architecture with a deep love for art and a fascination for different cultures. After earning my landscape architecture degree from Cal Poly Pomona and my Master’s degree in architecture from Harvard I moved to Asia in 1984. I found my niche in designing hotels that blend cultural authenticity with modern luxury. In
1989, I founded BENSLEY in Bangkok and it just went from there, and here we are 35 years and more than 200 hotels later.
What triggers your design inspiration?
Design, for me, has never been about just making something pretty. That’s boring. If it doesn’t serve the planet or its people, then why bother? Every project I do has to earn its keep; protect a forest, create jobs, tell a story that matters. Otherwise, I’m out. At Shinta Mani Wild, we didn’t just build tents in a jungle, we built a conservation army. The whole camp funds anti-poaching patrols and supports the local community. That’s what I mean when I say ‘luxury with a heart’. You can still sip your gin and tonic, but know it’s helping save an elephant’s life. I believe in conservation through commerce. Tourism can be a dirty word, or it can be a force for good. Design should have guts. It should fight for something. And if I can do that with a bit of flair, maybe a brass bathtub in the treetops or a zipline entrance, well then, even better.
What’s in the pipeline workwise?
There’s a lot on the drawing boards, hotel projects in Africa, The Maldives, Turkey, Saudi Arabia and Thailand, and both hotel and residential projects in India, plus other design concepts still under wraps. And more art, of course, to raise much needed funds for humanity and conservation projects in Cambodia by the Shinta Mani Foundation.
Asia Family Traveller - luxury travel & lifestyle for families living in Asia
Look out for our Autumn issue!
* Exploring the Indian Ocean
* Where to dive with the kids in Asia
* More Macau! Family adventures on the Pearl River PLUS - Resort reviews, dining, schools and more
