What Does Terroir in Whiskey Mean? Colorado and Wyoming Are Leading the Charge to Forge the Answer
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n February 2021, the results of The Whiskey Terroir Project, the scientific study led by Oregon State University and Ireland’s Waterford Distillery, were published. After several years of scrutiny, it confirmed what was already assumed for years in some distilling circles: Terroir in whiskey existed. Two years later, the word terroir is increasingly infiltrating the whiskey world. As more distilleries outside the usual suspects of Kentucky and Tennessee crop up and produce brown spirits that highlight their place of origin, the word seems poised to further embed itself in the whiskey distiller’s lexicon. But as the term’s usage proliferates, it is important to answer one simple, yet critical question: What the hell is terroir in whiskey, anyway? It's an answer being prominently explored by the distilling scenes in Colorado and Wyoming, two states geographically defined by Rocky Mountain ruggedness and flat, high
plains. The unique environmental elements enveloping the areas where grains grow — high elevation, dramatic diurnal temperatures, dry weather patterns — make it logical for the states’ craft distillers to take the lead on this conversation. These elements do play a role in defining the term from a regional perspective. At the same time, producers and distillers in the respective states could potentially broaden the word’s application when it comes to distilling brown spirits.
Building the Term Terroir is a French term that, when loosely translated, means “a sense of place” traditionally applied to fine wine by oenophiles. This causes reluctance for some producers in the Colorado/Wyoming region to fully embrace the term. “I’m not a fan of the term ‘terroir,’ to be honest,” said David DeFazio, co-founder and owner of Wyoming Whiskey in Kirby, Wyoming. “It’s too pretentious of a word for whiskey.” All protestations about pretense aside, the term works based on its typical definition. In the wine world, terroir chiefly applies to the conditions surrounding grape growth — the soil, the weather, the temperature, and the elevation. These elements are present in
High elevation, dramatic diurnal temperatures, and dry weather patterns make Colorado and Wyoming logical for the states’ craft distillers to take the lead on this conversation.
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WRITTEN BY RICH MANNING
whiskey terroir, as they interactto influence grain growth, providing the grain, and ultimately the whiskey, that “sense of place.” “All whiskey comes from somewhere, just like wine,” explained Al Laws, founder and president of Laws Whiskey House in Denver. “This origin goes right down to the grain. When we talk about terroir, we’re “When we talk not trying to sell about terroir, you Colorado. We’re trying to show the we’re not effects of Colorado trying to sell grain on whiskey." The distillers aryou Colorado. en’t alone in this We’re trying mission. In the eastern Colorado town to show the of Burlington, the effects of grain brokerage firm Whiskey Sisters Colorado grain Supply helps curate on whiskey.” this sense of place by growing grain for — AL LAWS some of Colorado’s Laws Whiskey House in Denver, Colorado top distilleries. Laws is one of their partners, as are prominent brands like 291 and Breckenridge Distillery. Stephanie and Felicia Ohnmacht — the whiskey sisters behind the company — see the increased use of the term as a way for whiskey fans to connect even more deeply. “As nerdy grain advocates, we love grain,” Stephanie said. “When it comes to terroir, we want to lead and enable
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