GREEK SPIRITS WRITTEN BY DEVON TREVATHAN
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reece is known for a multitude of delicious dishes, but equally appealing spirits are made there. Though exportation is limited, many products are available for purchase in the United States. Regardless of specific distillation techniques and final flavor profiles, one thing is consistent about Greek beverages: They are meant to be enjoyed with friends.
TSIPOURO
Similar to other Mediterranean spirits like grappa from Italy or Portuguese bagaceira, tsipouro is made by distilling fermented grape pomace. Pomace, or marc, is the solid waste obtained following the extraction of grape juice during winemaking, consisting mostly of skins and seeds, and to a varying degree stalks. Pomace may also contain residual sugar (unfermented marc) or ethanol from fermentation (fermented marc). Traditionally, grape pomace would be stored in closed containers, possibly in anaerobic conditions, following pressing for juice and prior to distillation; this promotes spontaneous fermentation of any residual sugars. In this environment yeast metabolizes sugars mainly into ethanol and secondary fermentations produce volatile by-products. Key during this stage is to ensure that the time between pressing and distillation is not too long, on average three days, so as not to allow spoilage. Following this process, pomace is traditionally distilled in alembic copper pot stills in a fractional distillation style, retaining
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the hearts and discarding the rest. Cuts are done based on the distiller’s tastes and experience, and they are crucial in creating the character of the final spirit. Following distillation, spirits made from marc or pomace are typically blended and proofed down; maturation in oak or other types of containers is not necessary, though market demand has made the practice more popular. Once proofed down, tsipouro is ready to be bottled and shipped out to stores and restaurants or bars. Consumption of tsipouro is as important as its production — it’s traditional for tsipouro to be consumed with a selection of small dishes called ‘meze’ or ‘mezze’ as well as conversation. The spirit itself is usually taken unadulterated with the exception of some water or ice, but the use of tsipouro in a cocktail is a modern twist. The key element, however, to most native Greeks is that the process of drinking tsipouro is a long one, it’s not done in a shot or even an hour, but as part of a greater experience. The pleasure of the company is as important as the quality of the spirits, sometimes more so. The informal rule is 1:1:1 — one bite of food, one sip of tsipouro, and one more opportunity to talk with whoever you’re out with.
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