the Golden State. The pandemic had other ideas. The roll out has been put on hold indefinitely, replaced by on-the-fly stability strategies. I wish I could say I handled this information with unbiased journalistic integrity, but screw that. As a California resident who’s spent months jonesing for their bottles to be on the shelves of my local independent liquor store, the news makes my lower lip quiver for a beat. This expression of sadness doesn’t just happen because Tattersall’s spirits are excellent. Their forced recalibration is a perfect example of passionate people making wonderful products and having their dreams dashed by an invisible predator that doesn’t give a damn about anybody’s hope. Before the coronavirus began its relentless sweep, Tattersall was building an internship program that focused on working with individuals from Minneapolis’ inner city. “We wanted to figure out ways that we could be more diverse, but we also wanted to provide access to people that may not otherwise have the opportunity to get involved with the industry,” Kreidler said. “We weren’t looking for something superficial like a pat on the back. This just felt like an
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especially important thing for us to do.” Tattersall paused this plan due to the coronavirus. While they and other distilleries sought shelter from the viral maelstrom, the killing of George Floyd boomed a thunderclap that shook Minneapolis to its foundations. Several days of intense civil unrest ensued, and it had a visceral impact on the Twin Cities’ distilling scene, most notably Du Nord Craft Spirits, a Black-owned distillery whose Minneapolis warehouse was set ablaze by rioters (see sidebar). A sense of being overwhelmed beyond the virus’ parameters threatened to take hold. Rather than sinking into despair, Tattersall and the rest of the Twin Cities’ distilling community rallied around each other, not just to keep everyone afloat during 2020’s hellscape but to also make sure they’re able to be part of the Twin Cities’ post-pandemic, socially conscious evolution. “The best way we can help tell the story of Minneapolis and St. Paul is to keep supporting each other as much as possible,” Kreidler stated. “Serious situations reveal character, so it’s been great to see that so many people have each other’s back.” The word “survival” comes up a few times during my phone conversation with Kreidler. This would be weird if it
Trying to find a silver lining to 2020 can seem more futile than trying to locate a corner in a circle, especially in the Twin Cities. But take heart: There is one, and the wonderful souls within the city’s distilling industry are adding the gleaming streaks of promise to the otherwise gloomy landscape. TWIN SPIRITS DISTILLING By her own admission, Twin Spirits Owner/Distiller Michelle Winchester is “a little mouthy on social issues.” Her advocacy on social justice issues like the Black Lives Matter movement comes from a desire to embrace the entire Twin Cities community. This unabashed appreciation for the community isn’t a one-sided affair. “As soon as we started offering cocktail kits to go, there was a line across the street,” Winchester said. “I had so many people tell me, ‘We don’t want you to disappear!’” While there’s been a need for constant pivoting and flexibility to combat the coronavirus, there’s no chance of Twin Spirits pulling a vanishing act. They mean too much to too many people. Besides, Winchester’s a lifer. “We’re already in the business,” she said. “You may as well do what you can to keep going.” DU NORD CRAFT SPIRITS On May 29, Du Nord became the face of the Twin Cities distilling scene in the worst way possible. The act of arson that burned down the distillery’s warehouse may have defeated the average individual. Not Du Nord owner Chris Montana. Instead, he did something remarkable. He turned the remnants of his space into a food bank, established a fundraising effort to support fellow entrepreneurs of color whose businesses were damaged in their neighborhood, and provided help to other Twin Cities distilleries. “Chris has lent his support to us during this time, even as he’s dealing with what he’s going through,” explained Winchester. “That’s what makes this industry so great. Nobody ever looks at each other as competitors. We always have each other’s back.” A GoFundMe page set up by the American Craft Spirits Association blew by its original goal within hours of setup and has raised over $750,000 as of this writing. As a Black-owned distillery, Du Nord’s return to production sends a powerful message of resiliency that needs to be heard, both inside and outside the industry.
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