Samuel De Champlain brought Jerusalem artichokes, or topinambours as they became known in French, back to Europe. Many farmers found that they grew well in the temperate climates of central Europe, and it quickly became a valuable cash crop.1 Unfortunately, the Jerusalem artichoke’s popularity was short-lived, as another native North American crop, potatoes, which have a much higher yield per acre, soon began to replace it. Faced with declining profits, Jerusalem artichoke farmers quickly began finding novel ways to utilize the tuber.3 This was especially true in the south-western German state of Baden-Württemberg, where the peasants of the area learned that Jerusalem artichokes could be easily fermented and distilled into an enjoyable drink that they named simply Topinambur.5 Since this time, Topinambur, which is also sometimes called Rossler or Topi for short, has become a regional specialty of Baden-Württemberg.3,4 Many locals consider it to be the best digestive schnapps available, and there are many individual brands produced by local distilleries.5 Production of Topinambur is very straightforward. However, there are some unique differences between it and other tuber-based alcohols. Jerusalem artichokes are incredibly rich in carbohydrates, making up roughly 76 percent of their mass. However, unlike many other tubers, Jerusalem artichokes store their carbohydrates as inulin, which is a water-soluble polymer of fructose, rather than starch.4,6 This means that in order to access the sugars needed for fermentation, then enzyme inulase is needed. Luckily, Jerusalem artichokes produce their own inulase when exposed to stress. For this reason, it is traditional to harvest Jerusalem artichokes after a period of cold weather, so that the tubers will have enough endogenous inulase to break down the carbohydrates on their own. However, some producers who do not wish to wait use commercial enzymes to speed up the breakdown. This can be advantageous as they can also include a pectinase enzyme to help break down the cellular material.4 Once the Jerusalem artichokes are ready, the stalks are cut down and the tubers are removed from the soil. The tubers must be cleaned of dirt and other foreign material before being ground up with water and having yeast added to begin fermentation. Fermentation times for Topinambur vary depending on the producer and the process used. However, once the fermentation is complete, it is immediately transferred to the still.4 Standard double-pot stills are most commonly used when producing Topinambur, though it can be produced using almost any type of still. Jerusalem artichokes have a very delicate aroma and flavor, so it’s important that the distiller be very careful not to apply too much heat during
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the distillation process, otherwise they risk scorching the wash and losing the desired flavor. Topinambur is almost never aged and is usually proofed and bottled almost immediately after distillation is complete. As mentioned previously, the minimum strength that Topinambur can be bottled at is 38 percent ABV and, although producers are permitted to add caramel coloring, it is very rarely done.2,4 Currently, almost 90 percent of the Jerusalem artichokes grown in Baden-Württemberg are used to make Topinambur.5 However, there are no major brands of Topinambur, and its production is almost exclusively carried out by small scale craft producers. This means that there is high variability between producers, and each distiller’s Topinambur can vary wildly in terms of taste. That said, most consumers describe all Topinambur as being slightly fruity with distinct earthy notes, making it a fantastic after-dinner drink.5 Recently, public interest in Jerusalem artichokes has reignited. The modern back-to-the-land and slow-food movements have begun to tout Jerusalem artichokes as a tastier and healthier alternative to potatoes. This has become especially true in diabetic communities, as Jerusalem artichokes contain a high inulin content that makes them more tolerable than other starch-heavy foods.7 Bio-energy companies have also become interested in Jerusalem artichokes because their fast growth may make them a cheaper and cleaner source for fuel ethanol. This has led to more Jerusalem artichokes being grown in their native North America.6 Indeed, Koval Distillery, which is based in Chicago and is known for their experimental spirits, has already begun production of a Jerusalem Artichoke spirit.8 Perhaps it is only a matter of time until more craft-distillers recognize the potential that Jerusalem Artichokes have and begin making their own American style Topinambur.
Reade A. Huddleston is Head of Production at Headframe Spirits in Butte, Montana. He received his Masters Degree in Brewing and Distilling Sciences from Heriot-Watt University, and is fascinated with all things drinkable. If you would like to contact him about any strange and forgotten spirit, please email him at ReadeHuddleston@gmail.com.
References 1) Cosgrove, D.R., et. al. 1991. Jerusalem Artichoke. Alternative Field Crops Manual. Available from < https://hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/afcm/jerusart.html> [ May 4th, 2020] 2) Council Regulation, 1989. Council Regulation (EEC) No. 1576/80. Available from < http://www.wipo.int/wipolex/en/text.jsp?file_id=126926#JD_EU030_15> [May 1, 2018] 3) Energy4Farms, 2017. Jersusalem Artichoke. Available from < https://energy4farms.eu/jerusalem-artichoke/> [May 1, 2020] 4) Bordiga, M., 2018. Post Fermentation and Distillation Technology: Stabilization, Aging, and Spoilage, CRC Press. Pp. 71 5) Huber Brennerei, 2020. Topinambur. Available from <http://www.brennerei-huber.de/html/topinambur.html> [May 2, 2020] 6) Sachs, R.M., 1981. Fuel Alcohol from Jerusalem Artichoke. California Agriculture. Available from < https://www.hudsonvalleybiofuel.org/index.php/Jerusalem-artichokes/ fuel-alcohol-from-jerusalem-artichoke.html> [May 2, 2020] 7) NC State Extension, 2020. Growing Jerusalem Artichokes. Available from < https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/growing-jerusalem-artichokes> [May 3, 2020] 8) Koval Distillery, 2020. Sunchoke Spirit. Available from < https://www.koval-distillery.com/ newsite/119-english/spirits/sunchoke-brandy/104-sunchoke-spirit> [May 26, 2020]
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