define intensity and retention time, and some allow the test subject to use descriptors that are recorded in real-time as the compounds elute. That leads me to the subject of descriptors and how that can be your best friend or your greatest enemy. A detailed lexicon is only as effective as how it is executed. If someone says something is smooth you can probably stop listening. What the hell does that mean, anyway? What a lazy descriptor. I’ll save that for another rant. What I will say is the power of suggestion is stronger than one might think. If before you indulge in a particular beverage I tell you it smells like sweet strawberries, the likelihood of you smelling sweet strawberries is pretty high. That is why I like to S.T.F.U. and let myself or others absorb what they earnestly detect. Without the use of tech, how can we have any sort of confidence in simple nosing or tasting? Magic, of course. No, not really, but statistics help. Depending on the panel size and if you are nosing for defects or a particular attribute, there are a variety of tests that prove to be statistically significant and useful. If nothing else, it may rule a test subject out because they lack the sensitivity to recognize a particular compound. If you happen to be this subject, do not take it personally. It is science and repetition. Tetrad and triangle tests are particularly useful with smaller panels. I have personally used or been part of these at small and massive distilleries alike. There are other tests of this variety, like the duo-trio and paired comparison, that have their strengths and weaknesses depending on your needs. It may behoove you to do a little research and choose one that suits your scenario. None are flawless or should be taken as the sensory gospel, but at least it might help to dilute some of the mystery, mystique, and magic out of the whole thing. Always remember the old saying, “There are lies, damned lies, and statistics.” I should give credit where credit is due. There are plenty of skilled and experienced sensory folks out there. These people have trained over significant amounts of time and crafted their ever-evolving recognition and lexicon through repetition and validation. You don’t have to be a master sommelier to effectively analyze your own thoughts and experiences. Sure, formal training helps, but it is just that, training. Someone might appear to have the sensitivity that you find remarkable. I assure you that this is due to a combination of genetics, exposure, and practice. The great ones practice a level of humility and can communicate efficiently to both their peers and those approaching the subject for the first time. So go craft your abilities and leave the arrogant golden-nosed magic to those who stand tall on their soapbox with their fancy suits, stupid hats, and ornate scarves. I’m off to organize my scarves and tell someone they are smelling wrong.
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Jason Zeno is director of operations at Porchjam Distillery in New Orleans, Louisiana. Visit www.porch-jam.com for more info. WWW.ART ISANSP IRITMAG.COM
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