w
hile the craft market of spirit distillation has seen an exponential boom in the last decade, brandy is a spirit whose popularity
has not mirrored the heights of bourbon or vodka. Yet Brandy has a long history in craft distilling reaching back further than the recent craft boom itself. It is versatile and complex, and producing it is expensive, with challenges unique among spirits in the artisan craft market. We spoke with Daniel Farber from Osocalis Distillery in Soquel, California and Scott Harris from Catoctin Creek Distilling in Purcellville, Virginia, two distillers who have dedicated themselves to the art of brandy making with the hope that we could explore the complex, seldom discussed spirit.
the basics Brandy is distilled from fermented fruit (i.e. wine). Grape is the most common base, but brandy can be made from any fruits. Plum brandy is likely the most common across Europe. Grape varieties are usually aged a minimum of two years in oak casks,
which the wine-maker isn’t able to sell otherwise. Farber of Osocalis warns that bad wine is going to result in bad brandy. “In general, it’s worse than garbage in, garbage out. It’s
garbage in, concentrated garbage out.”
So while he appreciates the thought, he will always politely
but brandies from other fruits (typically called eau de vie) are decline an offer for someone else’s leftover wine. He does aged for less time, and most commonly not in wood casks.
mention that by using rectification it is possible to take generic
Brandy is typically produced on specialized stills but eau wines and produce a neutral spirit. However, according to Farber, de vie is commonly produced on the same equipment (steam “neutrality is exactly what we don’t want.” heated column stills) as other spirits. Traditional methods utilize
Don’t be dissuaded from buying a brandy if you don’t see
pot stills (Cognac) but brandy can be made with continuous the traditional age/rating system on its label. We’ve all seen stills (Armagnac), as well. According to Harris of Catoctin them: A.C, V.S, V.S.O.P, but their use is unregulated in brandies Creek, “the process for making brandy is remarkably similar produced in the United states. For the varieties of brandy made to making whisky, except that there is no need for mashing (or in Europe under stricter rules, like Cognac or Armagnac, the saccharification) because the fruit will already have available age statement should be valid. But brandies made in America sugars for fermentation upon pressing.” Fruit is made into a base don’t have any regulations regarding the system, so it could wine, which is then distilled into brandy.
be dishonest. Harris, who makes several varieties of brandy,
One of the most important things to know is that the wine said that his distillery doesn’t use the rating system because it you start with is key. Farber says he is sometimes asked by wine remains unregulated, and thus unreliable for a consumer to base makers if he is interested in old wine that has sat for ages and their purchasing decision on.
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