Who's on the Camino? 101 Pilgrim experiences on the way to Santiago - Sample

Also by Danielle Aird The Fishermen of Progreso Short Stories for the Long Flight The Camino is not just for Walking

Copyright © 2023 Danielle Aird DESIGN by Anthony CARRICK Aird | PHOTO of shell by AARON BURDEN OUTSIDE BACK COVER ART SABINE IRWIN PHOTO OF DANIELLE BY CHLOE AIRD-TOUSIGNANT www.danielleaird.com ISBN: 979-8-8541-0856-0 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 SECOND EDITION All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without written permission from the author except by reviewers who may quote brief passages in a review. However, the individual contributors may use their stories and photos for publication in other books or magazines or online publications.

Pilgrims S a b in e Irw in , NOVA SCOTIA 1 B e th A n d e rso n , 25, ENGLAND 5 Te resa Pe a rso n , MINNEAPOLIS 7 E l isa b e th H e rm a n sso n , SWEDEN 9 A n n e -S o ph ie Me h e ust 12 C a ro l B row n , CANADA 14 Pä ivi K a l l io , FINLAND 17 L u i s S á n c h e z B r avo , V. ALCÁNTARA, SPAIN 21 Ia n C o rroye r a n d Ste ph e n Buxton 24 L o u i se N ic ko l in n e S a ffi B ruun n, DENMARK 27 Ph il , U.S. 29 La ga n Mic h e l a B atte l lo , ITALY 31 E va a n d Fritz , GERMANY 36 L u ca s G a s c o , COLMENAR VIEJO, (MADRID) SPAIN 38 H él è n e A upie d , BRETAGNE, FRANCE 39 A d è l e C h e d e vil l e , BRETAGNE, FRANCE 44 A l e x a n d e r a n d Pie rre Luc o uw, SOUTH AFRICA 48 B r u ce F i th ia n a n d Kue Jo h n Lo r , GORHAM, MAINE 50 A n ita a n d A ud ur , ICELAND 54 Ra l sto n , ONTARIO, CANADA 57 P i e r re Pa ra d is, ONTARIO, CANADA 60 S a r a Wa lte r 62 Mic h e l l e Le e , U.S. 65 V e n ec ia Ja c o b s a n d D e b b ie Kane- Nolan 67 Lisa Vo e lte r , GERMANY 70 D a n ie l e , ITALY 72 S e r gio Osun a , MESA, ARIZONA 75 Lyn d a l l Iro n , AUSTRALIA 77 K r istýn a B e d n ář ová (Ki ki ) 80 K arin Pe e te rs, THE NETHERLANDS 82 M o n i k a , BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG, GERMANY 84 Ka ro l in e B e rg, MAINZ, GERMANY 87 Je a n -C l aud e C a b a n n e , FRANCE 91 N o r a Ga r d il c ic , CHILE 95 J es s i ca , A n d ré a n d B a by Ja ko b (8 mont hs), BERLIN 97 S e b a stia n Ro st, DORTMUND, GERMANY 100 Lia n e , HAMBURG, GERMANY 101 N ic k Ve rste eg, CANADA 104 A n n ic k C h a rto n , TURIN, ITALIE 106 Ma rtin Lo b o , SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA 111 K ati e R o se a n d Ma ire a d K ie r n a n , CALIFORNIA 113 L luc A n to n i B ib ilo n i, MALLORCA 115 C a m in o l a Pe regrin a , SPAIN 119

A n dr e a S aute r , KINGSTON, ONTARIO 122 C ath y Mc N utt, CANADA 124 Ra n d a l l Yates, KAUAI, HAWAII 127 J a n in e Lie b e rm a n , PHILADELPHIA 129 A n o n ym o us, U.S. 131 Gitte Pe r c h , DENMARK 134 S a ra h C ath e rin e Go r d o n 136 Berta Ma rtin e z , BARCELONA 138 M i k e S m i th (a k a Mik e -w h o -l ik es-to -h ike), ATLANTA 140 Wiktoria an d Ja re k , POLAND 142 R i a n n e L ove tt, NEVADA CITY, CALIFORNIA 144 S a c h a B row n , BROOKLYN 146 J e a n n e tte Fr e ib e rg, CALIFORNIA 148 L e vi W in k e l m a n , NETHERLANDS 151 Te r ry Taylo r , CALIFORNIA 155 C r a ig B e rn th a l 157 L .A . W il sh aw 160 Ol e 164 B ria n Mil l e r 166 Ste ve Po ul in , MONTRÉAL 168 B ir git Ro se n h a ge n , GERMANY 170 D a ph n e Me n n e l l , WHITEHORSE, YUKON 172 D a l e H . Rub e r , HAWAII 174 S u za n n e, KINGSTON, ONTARIO, CANADA 177 V i ck i Murph y, BRISBANE, AUSTRALIA 181 C esa r Pic h a ra , SANTIAGO DE CHILE 183 D e n is D um a is, QUÉBEC 187 C o n n i e Jo h n m e ye r, COLUMBIA, MISSOURI 192 L a r ry a n d C aro lyn H atc h , BOWLING GREEN, OHIO 195 G u y Ma rc otte , TROIS-RIVIÈRES, QUÉBEC 198 R o n a l d T re m b l ay, c .m ., EDMONTON, ALBERTA 201 Na n H u ds o n a n d E l iz a b e th Ma c d o n a l d , KINGSTON, ONTARIO 204 W i l l i a m H ayes, BOW RIVER VALLEY, ALBERTA 206 S h a ron W e l l a n d , SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA 208 J u l i a S a r ge a n t, EDMONTON, ALBERTA 211 Kurt Ko b lowsk i, GERMANY 214 C o l l e e n Ko c h e r , CANADA 217 Er i c So u k e a k a R iko u th e A dve n tur e r, BESANÇON, FRANCE 220 Di a n n a Ku ype r s, LONDON, ONTARIO, CANADA 223 D i a n e Ric a rd , CLERMONT, QUÉBEC 226 Ele a n o r R i vo i r e a n d B a r b a ra L a n gm uir , KINGSTON, ONTARIO, CANADA 228 Ol ivie r A m ir i, LARRASOAÑA 230 Paul Ga r l a n d 235 B r e n t H o pk in s, VICTORIA, B.C. 237 L i o n e l d e C o m po ste l l e , CAHORS, FRANCE 239

Rita A l b in a , HAWAII 243 C h lo e Air d -To usign a n t, KINGSTON, ONTARIO 245 J a cq ues Me n a rd , KINGSTON, ONTARIO 247 Ja n C h ristil aw, WHITE ROCK, BC 251 Tra cy S aun d e r s, MUXIA, SPAIN 253 K e n n e th Stra n ge Jr ., CALIFORNIA 255 Е л е н а Л о жкина [E l e n a Lo z h k in a ], YEKATERINBURG, RUSSIA 259 Liz i, INDIA 262 Ja m es B row n , ENGLAND 265 C a ro ly n Ma rtin d a l e , RED DEER, ALBERTA, CANADA 267 L ise Th o m pso n , ONTARIO 270 W e n a n d Ro sc o e , SCOTLAND 272 E d ua r d o , CANADA 277 E l a d , TEL AVIV 279 B ra d B atte n , ONTARIO 282 Ma rc o s Go n z a l e z , BARCELONA, SPAIN 285

Introduction If you are holding this book in your hands, it is likely that you have been to Santiago de Compostela or are hoping to go. Or maybe you are walking the Camino vicariously because it is not possible for you due to time constraint, budget, health or some other personal reason.

While walking several parts of the Camino Francés starting in 2018, I had gathered some of the stories fallen like pebbles over centuries along the path to Santiago. I related some of them in my previous book The Camino is not just for Walking – Pilgrims, hosts and ghosts along the Way. As I was planning my next Camino, I thought it would be interesting to collect more of those stories, but in the pilgrims’ own words. I was also fully aware that it would be a Herculean task to keep a record of them while trying to get from one village to another.

One thing I was certain of: almost everyone along the way is keen to talk about his or her experience. After sharing a table with other pilgrims or perhaps just falling into step with some along the way, I would talk about my project and note names and contact information. Only one or two did not express enthusiasm.

Later, from home, I reached out to them for a story and photo. Sadly a few did not respond: either my email disappeared into space or they got cold feet... I have met most of the pilgrims whose anecdotes you are about to read, broken bread with them, shared a dorm space or walked a length of the Camino with them. A few participants were friends of my original contacts. Some, like Rikou le Baroudeur were pilgrims who touched me by their postings on Facebook. Most are not writers, and there are a few, like Elad of Tel Aviv, who had to be coaxed, and just made it by the deadline (many times extended). I am glad I insisted: their stories are sincere and touching.

Occasionally you will come upon a passage in French or Spanish or Russian.

The translation follows.

Please DO NOT read this book like a mystery novel. Although the stories are compelling and you might not want to put it down, RESIST! After a few anecdotes, put it aside for the next day. Savour each one like a good chocolate and its surprise inside. Sit with the narrator of the story. Invite them into your life for a moment. You will be in excellent company ranging from a couple of giggly young French students, professors emeriti, artists, musicians, prize-winning authors, executives, a recipient of the Order of Canada, vagabonds, a six-month pregnant filmmaker, fathers-and-sons, young people looking for love (and finding

love), others not looking for love, and finding love, grandmothers innocently and reluctantly propelled onto the Camino by their children (and becoming Camino addicts), people dealing with scary medical diagnoses, others walking to Santiago in a bid to recover from PTSD... Every single pilgrim on the Camino has a story to tell. Every story is different and inspiring in one way or another. In my pilgrimages along the Camino, I met a man with only one leg, another was missing one arm, a pilgrim was pulling a cart with his belongings, a couple walked with a baby, another with two small children... And I came across all colours of the rainbow.

The nationalities in this book straddle the planet. Some pilgrims were not fluent in English. With the exception of Denis Dumais whose writing was translated by his friend, when the authors wrote in a different language, I translated their essay (from French, Spanish, Italian, or Russian) sometimes using a translator app. (I only know three words of Russian!). Often I printed the original before my translation. For those who wrote in English, but whose main language is not English, I usually left their writing in their own words, as you would hear them if you met them along the Camino.

If there is one leitmotiv to the book, it is the desire to return time and again.

Very few pilgrims are satisfied with one pilgrimage. And most will already be planning to return before they have even reached Santiago. Some will walk the same path over and over while others will choose another starting point, be it from Lisbon, or all the way from Le Puy en Velay in the centre of France, or from Andalucía... or they will walk the Camino del Norte, or any one of the many paths leading to Santiago. Some will tackle a pilgrimage to Rome... As this book goes to print, many, including Connie, Rikou le Baroudeur, Suzanne, Jan, Ralston, Paul and Monika are back on the Camino.

Some stories will make you laugh, Others will warm your heart, and even bring you close to tears. Many of the contributors wished to thank me within their testimony for giving them the opportunity to feature in this book. Since the stories are not about me, it was a dilemma, but I have decided to leave their comments in their essays. I am very touched and much indebted to them for kindly agreeing to participate, sometimes exposing their inner thoughts and feelings to readers all over the world. I thank each and every one of them sincerely for succumbing to my request, (sometimes after being probed insistently... “Of course you can write. If you can talk, you can write...”)

I had originally asked each pilgrim to contribute a photo and a passage of about 750 words. Many adhered to my request. Others found it difficult to write their testimony in so few words. Eventually, I gave in and accepted longer stories.

For example, after my repeated requests to Cathy to shorten hers, I realized that it was a story of sheer doggedness in the face of adversity, and just could not be told in one-and-a-half pages.

A note about spelling etc: Since some words are spelled differently in different English-speaking countries, I have honoured the writer’s original choice. I have also left distances as quoted by the writer, be they in miles or kilometres. Some names of towns or villages such as Finisterre (Fisterra in Gallego) have multiple spellings; I have kept the spelling used by the writer. Some Spanish words

(albergue, hostal, hospitalero, hospitalera, camino, etc) have become part of the pilgrim’s language. For that reason, I have chosen not to italicize them.

I wish to thank sincerely all participants, also my long-suffering husband Neil for putting up with my requests to review, print, touch-up photos, and comment. I am very much indebted to my son Anthony for his excellent artwork, patience and ability to turn these stories into a beautiful object. A special thank you goes to Sabine Irwin whom I met in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and who never ceases to amaze me with her wonderful artwork; her Camino-inspired rug hooking figures on the back cover.

And as always, I wish to thank you, my readers. Without readers, there can be no writers.

Buen Camino de la Vida.

In the summer of 2023, Pilgrims lost a precious member. Without John ​ Brierley’s dedication to the Camino and his excellent guidebooks, many of us would never have ventured onto the famous path.

RIP Mr. Brierley

Who’s on the Camino?

Sabine Irwin, NOVA SCOTIA

I had no idea what I was getting into 1

Who’s on the Camino?

Just thinking about the Camino puts a huge smile on my face.

Our Camino was my highlight of 2022. After a few dark years, first losing my Mom to cancer and then being locked down with COVID.... planning our route through the north of Spain gave us some light at the end of the tunnel.

I can only say, it was the most amazing and incredible journey I have ever been on and the best part of it all, I got to share it with my brother Stefan who lives in Germany, (and whom I don’t often see since I moved to Canada) and a handful of most interesting and loving people met on the way. What a time we had... Now I can understand why people do it more than once.

The daily walking, through little villages, gravel roads, flat and hilly, forever long....a Food truck showing up in the middle of nowhere just when you need it....a burning sun, flying dust, fog as white as a wall... sometimes getting caught in a rain storm....having your first café con leche and a croissant before you start your day.....a pilgrim’s meal and a delicious glass of red at the end of our day....putting on super thin paper sheets on your bunky, the list goes on and on....

I was not prepared and had no idea what I was getting into, but at the end of our 42-day journey, I was the happiest and most fulfilled ....What I’ve learned from our pilgrimage? Nothing scares me anymore, I feel like I can tackle anything.... and my next Camino is in the plans....

Had it not been for my brother Stefan, I would have never experienced this amazing and life-changing walk/hike... forever grateful...

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