The Island Key 2nd Edition by Anna Cinense

bali • lombok • the gilis • nusa lembongan • ceningan • penida edition two

October - April 2010

IDR 100.000

SGD 15.00 AUD 12.00

all new updated information for 2009/2010 2nd edition of the best selling pocket guide detailed street & island maps

your guide to unlocking the islands resor t s • t ra n s p o r t • c u l t u re • s p or ts • shopping • dining • bars • clubs • k ids

www.theislandkey.com

your guide to unlocking the islands

www.theislandkey.com

lcome to the second edition of The Island Key the most up to date, funky and fun pocket guide to the Indonesian vacation islands, produced in conjunction with the Indonesian Ministry of Culture and Tourism. This second edition has been expanded to a huge 332 pages covering the very best of Bali, essential travel information for the Gili islands, Lombok and Nusa Lembongan, not to mention the lesser-visited islands of Nusa Ceningan and Penida. Our mission statement when we launched the first edition of The Island Key six months ago was quite simply to give visitors to Bali and Lombok the very best advice on where to go, what to see and what to do. We were overwhelmed with the positive response to the first edition and have spent many a happy hour trawling through your emails and making notes on what you want to see more of in the second edition. This feedback has been tremendously helpful in tailoring The Island Key even more accurately to the needs of the modern visitor to Indonesia and we’ve expanded both the Seminyak and Ubud areas of the Bali section to feature far more listings for shopping, including some really unusual boutiques that don’t make it into other guides or publications. As times change and tourism in Indonesia embraces more foreign arrivals than ever, the average visitor is travelling further to experience more of the archipelago. With this in mind we’ve journeyed over to Lombok to give you a more thorough guide to the place many people describe as being ‘what Bali was thirty years ago’. Lombok is blossoming as a tourist destination in its own right and once the international airport throws its gates open in the not too distant future the island will literally take off. For the time being it’s virgin white sand beaches and stunning flora that literally cascades down

to the shoreline, not to mention the pounding surf of world-class waves and dreamy vistas afforded to hikers that take on the might of a trek up to the summit of Mount Rinjani. Time may stand still in Lombok for now (it certainly does compared to the hustle and bustle of neighbouring Bali) but there are three little islands just off the north west of the island that are booming, and really need no introduction. The Gili islands are now a very firm fixture on the schedule for many visitors to Bali, with their clear waters, Robinson Crusoe style beaches and incredible diversity of marine life open to snorkellers and divers alike. Gili Meno and Air, traditionally the two lesser visited islands, are in the midst of a renaissance of development whilst Trawangan is fast becoming an offshore extension of Seminyak with luxury villas and resorts springing up all over the island. Throughout our travels weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve stuck to the guiding principles of The Island Key - to bring you the very best of what is on offer across the board: from culture to nightspots, diving to fine dining, surfing to spa treatments and so much more, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all inside The Island Key and out there waiting for you to discover this trip. Unlock the true potential of this vacation with The Island Key and let our team of writers guide you around this truly incredible part of the world. Have fun, safe travels and be sure to keep the feedback coming on your journeys so we can continually improve our future editions. The team at The Island Key info@theislandkey.com

keycontent 08 - key user guide p.10 - key contributors p.13 - key island info p.26 - kuta & tuban p.48 - legian & seminyak p.82 - canggu p.94 - the west p.100 - ubud p.122 - out of town p.128 - north coast p.136 - amed & tulamben p.144 - padang bai & candidasa p.

154 - sanur p.160 - nusa dua p.168 - tanjung benoa p.174 - bukit & jimbaran p.184 - lombok p.208 - gili trawangan p.238 - gili meno p.244 - gili air p.250 - lembongan p.262 - ceningan & penida p.269 - directory of services p.322 - key health p.326 - key steps to property p.

contents

investment

www.theislandkey.com

keyuser guid

The Island Key is the simplest and most user friendly guide to exploring the best of the Indonesian vacation islands. The book is divided into colour coded areas covering Bali, Lombok, the Gilis, Nusa Lembongan, Ceningan and Penida - making it as uncomplicated as possible to experience the islands in a timely and fuss-free manner. Both the print version of the guide and the website has up-to-date and accurate information, detailed street and island maps, insider tips and key advice. Be sure to log onto the online version of The Island Key at www.theislandkey.com for up-to-the-minute information on special offers, calendar of events and direct online bookings - all at the click of a button. The Island Key truly is your guide to unlocking the islandsâ&#x20AC;Ś

keysymbols Key sponsors of The Island Key are highlighted on all the street maps, island maps and in the Services Directory in bold pink, and spotlighted in the information text for each area making it easy to see exactly where to head for the best vacation experience. All prices quoted in the guide are in Indonesian Rupiah (IDR) but are subject to change.

accommodation

wellbeing/spa

temple

gallery/museum

shopping

post office

restaurant

activities

hospital

bar/club

bank/ATM

communications

key user guide

www.theislandkey.com

keycontributor

Philip fell in love with the islands of Indonesia whilst travelling the world seven years ago and has since been instrumental in the tourism industry with Island Promotions travel agency. After answering thousands of enquiries from tourists about Bali and the outer islands he felt it was time to contribute to the definitive guidebook!

PHILIPSMITH Gemma Ash has lived in Bali for three years, and in that time has explored almost every little corner of the magical, beautiful and seductive islands. Every now and then she attempts to escape to some other tropical paradise, but is ultimately persuaded to return to Bali as it’s the only place known where people regularly arrive later than her.

GEMMAASH

James stumbled across the Indonesian Archipelago quite by accident in 2002 and hasn’t looked back since. He has worked professionally on numerous national and international guidebooks and magazines. His knowledge of the island will lead you to the very best of what Bali has to offer.

JAMESWATLING Foued has been a long term resident of Gili Trawangan and Bali. Having studied art and photography in Paris he then travelled through Africa and Asia before settling in Indonesia. His passion for diving and photography combine to create a fusion of light and water as a central theme to his images. www.foued.biz

FOUEDKADACHI David has been living in Bali for three years, but his love affair with Indonesia began long before that. His daily wanderings to track down that elusive shot rarely exclude a quick surf check and he’s always heading offshore to some of the more remote islands in search of new imagery and waves.

DAVIDBURDEN 10

key contributors

www.theislandkey.com

keyisland info As the tourist face of Indonesia, Bali has come a long way in the last thirty years since its discovery by modern tourism. The island maintains a dual approach to dealing with the large numbers of foreign tourists that are drawn by its spiritual allure and the pull of good value tropical vacationing; As development continues and Western influences make an indelible mark, the Balinese continue to adapt to the changes whilst remaining protective of their unique cultural identity. It is becoming more and more of a challenge to scratch beneath the real surface of Bali during a two-week vacation and many visitors donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t venture too far from the easygoing lifestyle and hospitality of the more popular tourist areas. For those who possess the spirit of adventure, who want to cross the line of generic tourism and strike a more uncharted path around the island then the rewards are still there to be enjoyed and treasured. Bali is split into eight regencies: Jembrana, Buleleng, Bangli, Tabanan, Badung, Gianyar, Klungkung and Karangasem. Predominantly Hindu, the island remains a province of the Republic of Indonesia but does not subscribe to Islam as adopted by the majority of the archipelago. Balinese society is based around the Pura, or temple, which is the core of religious, civil, family and social life with the Banjar (local meeting hall) being the cohesive centre of each community, much as it has been for thousands of years.

P MA DS AN SL YI KE

Sunset service at The Samaya, Seminyak (courtesy image)

BALI SEA

Menjangan Island

to java

Pengametan Bay

Mt. Prapt Agung 324 Gilimanuk Harbour Gilimanuk

Pulaki Banyu Wedang

Terima Bay

Pemuteran

Pulaki Temple

Jayaprana Grave

Gondol Beach Gondol

GILIMANUK

Seririt Mt. Kelatakan Mt. Sangiang 698 978 Palasari

Palasari Resevoir

Celukan Bawang Mt. Merbuk 1366

Munduk Mt. Mesehe 1195

Mt. Patas 1402

JEMBRANA Makepung (Bull Race)

BALI STRAIT

NEGARA

Bunut Bolon Rambut Siwi

Pengembangan Fishing Port

Asah Duren

Perancak Rambut Siwi Temple Perancak Temple

Pekutatan Medewi Beach

Balian Beach

Soka B

LEGEND Hindu Temple Point of Interest Waterfall Harbour Diving Surfing Swimming Beach

Scale 1 : 20.000

2,5

7,5 10km

Kubutambahan

Airsanih Ponjok Batu Temple

SINGARAJA Lovina Beach Lovina Singsing Banjar Waterfall

Pupuan

Yeh Mempeh Gitgit Waterfall

Gitgit

BULELENG

Mt. Ngandang 1407 Mt. Penulisan 1748 Batur Mt. Batur Temple 1717 Toya Bungkah Kintamani Traditional Village Batur Lake Trunyan Mountain View Penelokan Mt. Abang 2172 Mt. Agung 3142

Buyan Mt. Penggilingan Lake 2058 Pancasari Tamblingan Ulun Danu Temple Tamblingan Lake Botanical Beratan Lake Garden Bedugul Blahmantung Waterfall Mt. Batukaru 2276

ng Luhur Batukaru Temple

bali

Baturiti

Rice Terrace Jatiluwih

Tirta Empul Holy Spring Penebel

TABANAN

Tegalalang Butterfly Park

GIANYAR Kedewatan Sangeh UBUD

Antosari

Beach

Alas Kedaton

Soka

TABANAN

Monkey Forest Pejeng Sayan Bedulu Pengosekan Goa Gajah GIANYAR Mambal Temple Gong Making Blahbatuh Lebih Sukawati Singapadu Art Market Bird Park Silversmith Keramas

Tanah Lot Temple

BADUNG

Seseh Beach Canggu Beach

Canggu

Petitenget Temple Legian Beach Kuta Beach

DENPASAR

Ketewel

Sanur

Sanur Beach

Seminyak Legian Kuta

Sakenan Temple Tuban Serangan Benoa Kedonganan Harbour Tanjung Benoa Jimbaran Mumbul Dreamland Padang Padang Nusa Dua Suluban Uluwatu Geger Beach Temple Ungasan Pecatu Nyang Nyang

Abang Royal Pool

Muncan Selat

Temple

Taman Ayun Mengwi

Kerambitan

Penglipuran

BANGLI Gunung Kawi KLUNGKUNG

Seraya S

KARANGASEM

Besakih Pasar Agung Temple

Traditional Village

USAT Liberty W Tulamben Beach Tulamben

Amed Bea Amed

Besakih Temple

Tampaksiring

Tianyar

Pujung

Mt. Seraya Lempuyang 1175 Temple

Tirtagangga

AMLAPURA

Puri Agung Kang

Ujung Andakasa Tenganan Temple Traditional Village

Candidasa Beach Padang Bai Kertagosa Kusamba Harbour Goa Lawah Temple (batcave) Batu Klotok Temple

SEMARAPURA

Candidasa Biaha Island

BADUNG STRAIT Dalem Ped Temple

NUSA LEMBONGAN Lembongan

Toyapakeh

NUSA CENINGAN

Ped

Klumpu

NUSA PENIDA Sebuluh

Batumadeng

Taman Ujun

Karangsari

Sel Akar akar

GONDANG

Wreck

LOMBOK STRAIT

Slope

GILI ISLANDS

Rinjan

Gili Trawangan Gili Meno

TANJUNG

Gili Air

ach

Sire Beach Bangsal Harbour

Klui

Monkey Forest Mangsit

ginan

Mt. Tampole 1080 m

Pemenang

Malimbu Gili Selang

Mt. Punikan 1490 m

Sidemen Pusuk Palm Sugar Production

Krandang

Tluteja Waterfall

Tiu Pupas Waterfall Golf Kosaido

KR,Bayan

SENGGIGI

is e gil ilis he g to t

to th

Batu Bolong Ampenan

Nyur Gunung Sari

Endut

Suranad

lom

Lingsar Cakranegara

MATARAM

Sedau

Narmada

Mantan

Sweta Kediri

to lom

bok

Banyumulek

Puyung

Sukarara Gili Layar Gili Asahan

Gili Ringgit Gili Nangu

LEMBAR

Batujai

Gili Genting

Bangko Bangko

P Sekotong Barat Mt. Jageg 356 m

Sekotong Tengah Labuan

Pelangan

Mt. Tukdaponggod 418 m

Sepi

Scenen Selong Blanak Pengantar

Mawun

LB Carik

Gili Lawang

langan Tepeloang

Bayan

Obel obel

Batu kok Sludang Waterfall

DS. Kembar

ni Trek Center

Mt. Prigi Mt. Patujang 1632 m 1924 m

Mt. Daya 2914 m

LB Pandan

Sembalun Bumbung

Mt. RInjani 3726 m

Lemor

Mt. Pusuk 2330 m Mt. Kondo 2947 m

Gili Pentangan Sapit

Mt. Limanuk

Lacuhan Lombok

Timbanuh Jeruk Manis Waterfall

Pohgading

Tetebatu

rbaya

Aik Bukak

Kopang

Pringgasela Aikmel Lenek

Kotaraja

mbok

Sikur

Wanasaba

Anyan

Lonyok

Rempung Masgabik

SELONG

Terara

Tanjuk Teros Pancor Sakra

RAYA

Beleke

Labuhan Haji

Mantong Meong Rambang

Mujur

Keruak Ganti

Tanjung Luar Jerowana

Penunjak Pujut

Mangkung

Sambelia Sembalun Lawang

Lake Segara Anak

esaot

Gili Sulat

Belating Sandongan

Sludang Gile

Rambitan Sengkol

KUTA

Batu Nampar T. Aan

Tanjung Runggit

Bumbang Ekas Bay

ALAS STRAIT

key island info contd. Even in the face of adversity and the onset of modern globalisation, Bali remains an island that is accepting, peaceful and tolerant to all. With an area of 5700 square kilometres and an estimated population approaching four million the island can be a bustling, busy place. Most locals live and work in the urbanised capital city of Denpasar that links to the outskirts of Sanur, with tourism the industry of choice for many young Balinese. Outside the popular resort areas of Kuta, Seminyak, Sanur and Nusa Dua, Bali is an agricultural island with stunning rice fields and centuries old `subak’ irrigation systems. It’s almost impossible to experience all of Bali in just one vacation; from the incredible diving in the northeast to the world class surfing on The Bukit down south and the cultural attractions of Ubud, there’s simply so much to see and do, you will return time and time again. The seaweed growing island of Nusa Lembongan, neighbouring Nusa Ceningan and Nusa Penida fall officially under Bali and are often visited for a day trip on any number of boats that operate out of Benoa harbour and Sanur. The main attraction on Nusa Lembongan is the reef surfing and slow pace of life, whilst divers can expect challenging conditions and the opportunity to spot the seasonal Mola Mola sunfish and giant Manta rays. The Lombok Strait marks the passage between the Indomalayan ecozone and the fauna and flora associated with Australasia and subsequently is referred to as `The Wallace Line’ after the British naturalist Sir Alfred Russel Wallace, who first remarked upon the alternate habitats. Lombok is now entering a dramatic period in its history with the advent of tourist development in the south, catering to the emerging luxury market from the Middle East.

key island info contd. In stark contrast to Bali the majority religion on Lombok is staunchly Muslim. The island’s inhabitants (totalling around 2,500,000) are 85% Sasak people related to the Balinese but who practice Islam - whilst 10 to 15% of the population are Balinese with a minority of Chinese, Arab, Javanese and Sumbawanese occupants. Tourism in Lombok has been through turbulent times in the last two decades but the once popular seaside resort of Senggigi is now officially back on the tourist visitor map. The south of the island is gaining popularity at an astounding rate and is a must visit destination before the five star resorts mark their arrival. The island is dominated by the stratovolcano Mount Rinjani - the third highest in Indonesia. Still active, the volcano continues to attract hikers and volcanologists alike. Next to the scenic and unspoilt beaches, surfing, diving and textile and pottery industries, Mount Rinjani is the main visitor attraction on the island. Just offshore from the northwestern coast of Lombok are the Gili islands of Air, Meno and Trawangan. Long popular with western tourists looking to escape the excesses of neighbouring Bali, all three Gilis have a ban on motorised vehicles - leaving tourists the option of a local pony cart (cidomo) or traversing the white sands by bicycle or on foot. Each of the islands is charming in its own right with Trawangan being the most popular by far. There’s an abundance of marine life on the doorstep of each islet making the diving fantastic and it’s for this reason that the Gilis are so popular as a destination in their own right. Whatever your preference, budget or taste, the islands have something for everyone. It’s all there waiting for you to discover... 22

info

www.theislandkey.com

bedugul p.122

north coast p.128

BALI SEA

Menjangan Island Pengametan Bay

Mt. Prapt Agung 324

to java

Gilimanuk Harbour Gilimanuk

Terima Bay

SIN

Pulaki Banyu Wedang

Pemuteran Gondol Beach

Pulaki Temple Gondol

Jayaprana Grave

Lovina Beach Lovina Seririt

Mt. Kelatakan Mt. Sangiang 698 978 Palasari

Banjar

Celukan Bawang Mt. Merbuk 1366

Palasari Resevoir

BULELE

Munduk Mt. Mesehe 1195

Tamblingan Tamblin Lak

Mt. Patas 1402

JEMBRANA Makepung (Bull Race)

Gitg Water

Singsing Waterfall

Pupuan

NEGARA

Blahmantung Waterfall

Bunut Bolong Rambut Siwi

Pengembangan Fishing Port

BALI STRAIT

Luhur Batukaru Temple

Clove Plantation Asah Duren

Perancak Rambut Siwi Temple Perancak Temple

Pekutatan Medewi Beach

TABANAN

Butter

ubud p.100

Antosari Balian Beach Soka Beach

Soka

TA Kerambitan

the west p.94 Tanah Lot Temple Seseh Beach

canggu p.82

Canggu Be

legian & seminyak p.48

kuta & tuban p.26

bukit & jimbaran p.174

Dreamla Padang Padang Uluwatu Temple

Nyan

Scale 1 : 20.000

2.5

7.5 10km

north coast p.128

Kubutambahan

LOMBOK STRAIT

Airsanih Ponjok Batu Temple

NGARAJA

amed p.136 Yeh Mempeh

git rfall

tulamben p.136

Gitgit

ENG

Mt. Ngandang 1407

Buyan Lake

Mt. Penulisan 1748 Batur Mt. Batur Tianyar Temple 1717 Toya Bungkah Kintamani Traditional Village USAT Liberty Wreck Mountain View Batur Lake Trunyan Tulamben Beach Penelokan Mt. Abang Tulamben 2172 Mt. Agung Seraya Slope BANGLI 3142

Mt. Penggilingan 2058 Pancasari

ngan ke Botanical Garden

t. Batukaru 2276

Ulun Danu Temple Beratan Lake Bedugul

Baturiti

Rice Terrace Jatiluwih

Tirta Empul Holy Spring Penebel Tegalalang

rfly Park

Besakih Traditional Village

Tampaksiring

GIANYAR Kedewatan Sangeh UBUD

Gunung Kawi Temple

Monkey Forest Pejeng Sayan Bedulu Monkey Forest Pengosekan Goa Gajah GIANYAR Mengwi Mambal Temple Taman Ayun Gong Making Blahbatuh Lebih Sukawati Singapadu Art Market Bird Park Silversmith Keramas BADUNG

Alas Kedaton

ABANAN

each

Canggu

Petitenget Temple Legian Beach Kuta Beach

Jimbaran

and g Suluban

DENPASAR

Ketewel

Sanur

Sanur Beach

Seminyak

Penglipuran

Royal Pool

Selat

Pujung

Andakasa Temple

KLUNGKUNG

Mt. Seraya Lempuyang 1175 Temple

Abang

Pasar Agung Temple

Gili Selang Tirtagangga

AMLAPURA

Puri Agung Kanginan

Ujung Tenganan Traditional Village

Candidasa Beach Padang Bai Kertagosa Kusamba Harbour Goa Lawah Temple (batcave) Batu Klotok Temple

SEMARAPURA

Taman Ujung

Dalem Ped Temple

NUSA LEMBONGAN

Toyapakeh

NUSA CENINGAN

Ped

Klumpu

e gil

to th

Candidasa Biaha Island

gil the

padang bai & candidasa p.144

BADUNG STRAIT

to lom

bok

nusa lembongan p.250 nusa ceningan p.262 Karangsari

NUSA PENIDA

Sakenan Temple Serangan

Tuban Benoa Harbour Tanjung Benoa

KARANGASEM

Muncan

BANGLI

Lembongan

Legian Kuta

Kedonganan

Amed Beach Amed

Besakih Temple

Sebuluh

Batumadeng

Mumbul Nusa Dua Geger Beach Ungasan

sanur p.154

Pecatu

nusa penida p.262

ng Nyang

tanjung benoa p.168 nusa dua p.160 25

Hard Rock Hotel (courtesy image)

www.theislandkey.com introduction Only half a century ago Kuta was little more than a sleepy Balinese fishing village with a single dirt track connecting South Kuta to Legian and Seminyak; nothing like the built-up urban vision that greets the modern visitor to arguably the most famous tropical beachside town in South East Asia, if not the world. After being `discovered’ in the 1960s by travellers on the hippy trail through Asia and wandering surfers from nearby Australia, Kuta became the victim of years of unplanned development and rampant investment turning it into a jumble of closely-packed homestays, pubs, cheap and cheerful restaurants, raucous nightclubs, souvenir shops, juice bars, money changers, beauty parlours, surf emporiums and second-hand bookstores. Nevertheless, this chaotic epicentre of South Bali, with its beach-party atmosphere and maze of narrow alleys has got a certain alluring charm all of its own. Kuta attracts a fun-loving younger crowd, many of whom are happy to save cash and stay in 26

kuta & tuban

keyshortcuts Catch the world famous Kuta sunset (see page 28 for beach life recommendations) Stock up on beach and surfwear (see page 32 for shopping recommendations) Pamper your senses in Kuta’s finest spas (see page 36 for wellbeing recommendations) Hit the dancefloors til sunrise in Kuta’s club scene (see page 36 for bar & club recommendations) Eat for less in Kuta and Tuban’s restaurants and cafés (see page 42 for dining recommendations)

C to sem

Rip Curl S

Mini Mart

Melas

ijay

ti to denpasar

Leba

Pa t i h J e l a n t i k

e kB

B Red Square

Sriw

inyak

Jungle Surf S

Mini Mart

STO/SUP Surf A S

DaLa Spa

hi t

kuta

H Villa De Daun

apa

R The Balcony H Unâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hotel

Maj

esari

Pa t

a imur

Ben

Legi

B Kama Sutra

Mini Mart The Curl S

Horas S

Raya

Mini Mart Mojos R R Dog Dragon Grill Island Promotions A The Island Key Office Suka Beach Hotel H Mini Mart Warung 96 R B Eikon Bounty Hotel H Po p p i e s Mini Mart R Kori B M Bar Go Lane 2 B Ocean Beach H Maxi Hotel & Spa R B ESC/Sky Garden/61 Legian Club Mini Mart B Bounty Maccaroni R B Paddys Reloaded Mini Mart S Extreme Toys R Rosso Vivo S Blue Groove S Jungle Surf S Surfer Girl / The Sandpit Uluwatu S R Mc Donalds Mini Mart H Po p TJâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Poppies A pie Aston Bali Kuta Resort s La R Restaurant Odyssey ne R Surf School 1 Island Promotions A Warung H Travel Agent Made Poppies Centerstage B S Volcom R Cottages Hard Rock Hotel & Cafe H Bemo R a y a K u t a R ay a P a n t a i K u t a S Extreme Toys Corner S Jungle Surf S Rusty Surfer Girl S Extreme Toys S Mini Mart Rip Curl S W Times Book Stores S Te g a l a n gi H Harris Hotel

ian

to t i k a tub P an l a z

Kafe Batan Waru R Ryoshi R Surfer Girl S Discovery Shopping Mall S A Paradiso SOGO S Mini Mart Rip Curl S

Kaliange

Raya Kuta

Singosari

H Ramayana B Stadium cafe

to nusa dua

Mini Mart

Blambangan

Leg

ta ai Ku

Ma ta r a m

Pa n t

budget accommodation leaving them with more to spend on shopping and clubbing. Just when Kuta was struggling to expand (both physically and creatively) in any new direction, an unthinkable act of terrorism struck at its very heart. The Bali bombings of 2002 and 2005 led to a shift in visitor trends with more and more families now basing themselves in and around Kuta. Southern Kuta is known as Tuban. Presided over by the modern Discovery Shopping Mall the atmosphere here is less frantic with a lot of large family-oriented three star hotels, of which nearly all have direct access to the beach. The main shopping areas of Kuta Square, Poppies Lanes 1 and 2 up to Jl Legian, and on in the direction of Seminyak are all within walking distance of one another. There’s so much to see and do in and around the immediate area that many never venture outside the `town limits’ and get sucked into the Kuta vortex of surf, sun, spa, shop and a sinful amount of partying! getting there Tuban is the first part of Kuta that you are likely to come through on the way from the airport. It’s a busy street scene that is likely to challenge the first time visitor’s notion that Bali is a tropical castaway paradise. 28

kuta & tuban

Taxis from the airport to Tuban are fixed at IDR 40,000 from the booking counter and are only marginally more expensive than a metered cab from outside the airport grounds. It’s a ten minute ride to the Discovery Mall from the airport and another five minutes until you hit Kuta Beach in front of the Hard Rock Hotel, but this is also the one part of town where traffic can reach serious gridlock. The Poppies Lanes (or `Gangs’ as they are referred to) are perilously narrow in places and certainly not suited to easy access by vehicles; although many drivers persist, it’s much better to save the taxi drivers some trouble (and yourself some money and hassle) and jump out either on Jl Legian at the top or on Jl Pantai at the beach end of Poppies then walk to your destination chances are it won’t be far. Taxi fares from the airport to the furthest end of Kuta (where Legian begins) are in the region of IDR 50,000. Try to walk or jump on a local motorcycle taxi (Ojek) when it’s sunset or you could find yourself sitting in traffic for a fair amount of time. beach life It’s the beaches, waves and sunsets of Kuta that make this place so famous and continue to draw in the www.theislandkey.com

Warung Island Promotions e 1 Made Centerstage B S Volcom R Travel Agent Hard Rock Hotel & Cafe H Raya Kuta ta S Extreme Toys R ay a P a n t a i K u S Jungle Surf Surfer Girl S S Rusty Extreme Toys S S Times Book Stores Rip Curl S Te g a l w a n gi

Singosari

H Ramayana B Stadium cafe

Kalianget

a Raya Kut

Pe Pito

Kubu Any ar

art

ika

S R Kediri

Mini Mart

Kem

Tu b a n

a Raya Kut

B R BuGils

ayoran

Harris Hotel H

Prani H

Aston Tuban Inn H

Kedir

tuban

a Byp h Rai

S amu d ra

Risata Holiday Inn H H B Aston Kuta H W a n a W R Hotel & Residence Sega Envy R B ra

Ngura

R Ma Joly

rti

to s a

nur

Blambangan

Kafe Batan Waru R Ryoshi R A Paradiso Surfer Girl S Discovery Shopping Mall S Mini Mart Oceans 27 B R Periplus S Rip Curl S A Waterbom Dynasty Hotel H Gracie Kellys B Manik Salon W R W Queenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of India R Kin Khao Theta Spa H by the Sea Ramada Bintang Bali Resort

Blambangan

Mini Mart

Po p pie s L A an

to legian

Rip Curl S

to nusa dua

S Periplus

Ngurah Rai International Airport

7 A

crowds year after year. Kuta Beach is at its finest during the dry season months from April/May through to September/October as the wet season brings with it onshore winds and cross currents from neighbouring Java that can make the beaches less attractive. During the rainy months head to the white sand beaches of Nusa Dua for better conditions. Once the tradewinds swing to offshore and the dry season sets in, Kuta beach comes gloriously to life. Unfortunately the hawkers can be very persistent and no amount of patient refusals seem to deter their pushy sales pitches. Pack a pair of dark sunglasses to reduce the threat of being `targeted’, but be fair and hire a sun lounger for around IDR 30,000 a day (be prepared to bargain and fix the price first). There are designated lifeguard posts along the beach but it makes sense to pay attention to where you are swimming; swim between the red flags but do watch out for beginner surfers who may not be fully in control of their boards. Whatever you do forget about a post clubbing swim, it could be your last. the surf Contrary to popular belief, Kuta beach actually has really average surf and not the world-class waves that many guidebooks claim. There’s 30

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plenty of swell that sweeps into the bay itself but the sand banks are too straight to really provide any quality workable waves. Instead what surfers get is four-foot closeouts, unless you’re very lucky and find a peak that is working well. The best chance for scoring some better waves is at mid to high tide. Kuta Beach is a good place for beginners to practice though, and pretty much the only safe spot in Bali to learn from scratch, though the sheer number of boards in the water can be hazardous to say the least. Intermediates and advanced surfers are well catered for by the outer reefs of Kuta, accessible by the boat taxis in front of the resorts in Tuban. Airport Lefts (Tuban) is further out the back past Middles and is a bowling left hand reef that occasionally delivers a good ride. It’s a mid to high tide spot and is consistently crowded. IDR 70,000 on the boat return. Intermediates to advanced. Airport Rights (by the runway) can be a boxy, barrelling beast of a wave that comes to life when there’s over six foot of swell hitting the reefs, only surfable (safely) on mid to high tide. Right out the back of Jimbaran Bay, it’s wind affected so surf early mornings only. Huge take off into standup barrel opportunities with a guaranteed reef flogging if you bail. Sit on the boat and watch the sets www.theislandkey.com

before paddling out. IDR 100,000 on the boat. Advanced. Halfway (Jl Pantai Kuta) is regarded as the best beachbreak in the Kuta area. As the name suggests, halfway along the beach. Dead easy to find, usually a couple of feet bigger than McD’s but crowded beyond belief. Variable quality, better on an incoming tide around the mid mark. Holds up to around three foot then closes. Beginners to intermediates. Insides (Tuban) is a reform right, inside of Airport Rights proper. Fat and fun right that is very popular with the Japanese and can provide some long rides. Excellent fun when Airport Rights maxes out. Four to six foot, mid tide wave, can get wind affected easily. IDR 100,000 on the boat. Intermediate. Kuta Reef (in front of Theta Spa) is a boat ride from the front of the Bintang Ramada Resort, around IDR 50,000 return, just tell the guys how long you want to surf for. Hard to miss, picture perfect left reef break that peaks nicely and can offer long rides and very workable shoulders. Can deliver some fun barrels but don’t paddle too far into the first peak, you won’t make the section. Drop ins and crowds can be horrendous. Tempers fray quickly so come with a smile and show respect. Mid tide spot, excellent up to six foot, anything bigger and it doubles up on the takeoff and can be quite 32

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heavy. Intermediate to advanced. Not for learners. McD’s (Jl Pantai Kuta) the banks outside the front of McDonalds down to The Hard Rock Hotel are fat but sometimes workable on a mid to high tide. Longboards do well here, super crowded left, very occasional rights; Kuta locals dominate these peaks but are happy to share waves, lots of accidents and collisions. Best on the incoming tide up to three feet, get up early to beat the masses. All levels. Middles (Tuban) is a low tide only left hand reef break five minutes towards the airport runway from Kuta Reef that throws up big walls well suited to carving manoeuvres. Doesn’t really barrel but does hold up to about eight foot. Kick off before the end section or you’ll never get round the back again. Sometimes crowded, clean up sets can be ferocious here. Intermediate to advanced. shopping & style If Seminyak is the home to the `hip’ boutique-shopping scene in Bali then Kuta is the youth shopping capital of South East Asia. Jl Legian and Kuta Square present a hotchpotch of trendy brand name outlets, souvenir shops and fashion boutiques, together with gargantuan surf wear stores. www.theislandkey.com

For a shopping mall excursion, you might want to visit The Discovery Mall in Tuban, the biggest and the most complete one-stop shopping mall in Bali. Mal Bali Galeria, at Simpang Siur, boasts covered walkways set around attractive garden courtyards. Outlets include international and local stores, a department store, supermarket, and food courts. Poppies Lanes have stall after stall offering sunglasses, boardshorts and t-shirts - almost all are copies but are of a reasonable quality. Designs are similar shop to shop but prices vary enormously so be prepared to bargain hard. l Blue Groove (Jl Legian 138, T: 0361 752 693) has recently reopened and stocks a comprehensive selection of clothing and accessories from all the major surf and lifestyle brands. Its location next to sister store Surfer Girl makes it ideal for a his `n’ hers shopping spree. (P:27, ref:C5) l Extreme Toys (Kuta Square, T: 0361 756 291, Jl Legian T: 0361 752 693) operates with the slogan `hardcore toys and other cool stuff’ and can be relied upon to stock things that no-one else does, since they import goods by lesser-known brands. Extreme sports gear is the main focus, with equipment for surfing, skateboarding, kite surfing, and more, though they also stock watches, shoes and other accessories.

l Rip Curl (Kuta Square, T: 0361 756 305, www.ripcurl.com) are the ultimate surfing company in Bali for quality surf wear, boards, hardware and beach kit with locations throughout Kuta, Tuban, Seminyak and a massive flagship store newly opened on Jl Sunset. Rip Curl are also active supporters of the professional and local Indonesian surfing scene. (P:27,

(P:27, ref:B6, P:29, ref:B1,C1)

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l The Sandpit (Jl Legian 138, T: 0361 752 693) is a branch of Surfer Girl specifically for the 2-6 age range. As always at Surfer Girl, there is a wide selection of brands including their own brand, major surf labels and smaller labels Karusel and Wanabe. (P:27, ref:C5) l Surfer Girl (Flagship Store Jl Legian 138, T: 0361 752 693, www.surfer-girl.com) is the leading all girls surf shop and is a beach babe’s wonderland with clothing and accessories from all the major surf brands, arranged in groups in the maze-like megastore. They also have their own range of products in eyepopping candy colours. (P:27, ref:C5) l Surf Travel Online (Jl Benesari, T: 0361 750 550) has a large selection of epoxy boards and quality brand surf hardware. They are now leading the way for stand-up board riding. Also a good place to book surf trips. (P:27,

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wellbeing Affordable, high quality wellbeing treatments are there for the taking in Tuban and Kuta whilst some mid range spas offer therapies that are amongst the best available in Bali. If you’ve never experienced a spa treatment before then here’s the perfect place to start, and the good news is it won’t bankrupt you when you get hooked - at least for as long as you’re staying in Kuta! Cozy (Jl Sunset, T: 0361 766 762) is dedicated to the masses with a wide variety of treatments, juice bar on site and affordable prices all round. DaLa Spa (Jl Legian, T: 0361 756 276, www.villadedaun. com) is the standout spa in the Legian area offering a varied selection of uniquely interesting and competitively priced treatments for men and women. The spa has continually received premier industry awards since its opening in 2007 and remains the wellbeing highlight of any Legian daytrip. Complimentary pick ups in the south of Bali. (P:27, ref:C3) l Manik (Tuban, inside The Dynasty Hotel, T: 0361 752 403, also on Jl Legian) is an Australian owned and run hair and beauty salon also specialising in acrylic and gel nails courtesy of a professional nail technician, cosmetic tattoos and high quality European hair extensions. 36

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Excellent service at sensible prices make Manik a cut above the rest. (P:29, ref:B3)

Theta Spa By The Sea (Ramada Bintang Bali Resort, Jl Kartika Plaza, T: 0361 755 726, www.thetaspa.com) enjoys probably the best spa location in the Kuta area; right on the beach with treatment rooms directly overlooking the ocean. A cool and very chic spa setup is renowned for being Bali’s first wellbeing centre to combine an allnatural holistic approach to balancing the body and mind. The result is a very unique and enjoyable wellbeing experience for both sexes in a super stylish environment. The newly opened salon is a must visit with a wide range of treatments and a staff of Japanese stylists to look after your requirements. (P:29, ref:A3)

the bar & club scene The Kuta night scene is mainly focused around Jl Legian and Jl Pantai running along the beach at Kuta towards Seminyak. The highest concentration of bars and clubs can be found on Jl Legian from the top of Poppies Lane 2 towards Bemo Corner. Kuta tends to start earlier than Seminyak but has a younger crowd. Most regular bars empty out by midnight and that’s when the clubs and live music bars kick into action some keep going until dawn. www.theislandkey.com

(i) keyinfo

bargaining

Most of the modern, glass-fronted shops sell their merchandise at a fixed price, but there is no harm in asking for a discount, especially if you buy more than one item. In the traditional markets, street stalls and small art shops, where no price is indicated, you are expected to haggle. Bargaining is highly entertaining with lots of theatrical gestures, `morning pricesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, `raining pricesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, and laughter. It is best not to treat this process as a confrontation, but more as a game. Begin your offer at a third of the asking price, then try to be patient and good natured and you may find yourself paying only a fraction of the quoted figure. If you think the final price is still too expensive, try walking away; the vendor may call you back and accept your price. When haggling, bear in mind that a few thousand rupiah may not be a great deal of money to you, but it is a lot to people living and working in Bali and Lombok. kuta & tuban

l Bounty Hotel (Poppies Lane 2, T: 0361 753 030, www. bountyhotel.com) throws a wild Rasa Sayang pool party every Friday night with all you can eat and drink, DJs, competitions and Balinese dancers. (P:27, ref:B4) BuGils (Jl Dewi Sartika 1BB, T: 0361 758 322, www.bugilsbali. com) houses a horseshoe shaped bar where the all-female staff serve up cold beers to a crowd of friendly regulars. Chill out on the outside terrace or enjoy the cosy atmosphere of the wooden interior. (P:29, ref:B5) Centerstage at Hard Rock Hotel (Jl Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 761 869) is Kuta’s premier live music venue with local cover bands performing nightly. Fun, but not cheap compared to the other bars in the area. (P:27, ref:B5) Eikon (Jl Legian 178, T: 0361 750 701) is right in the heart of Kuta action and attracts a young crowd with regular drinks promotions and music from hip hop to rock and everywhere between. (P:27, ref:C4) Gracie Kelly’s (Bali Dynasty Resort, Jl Kartika, T: 0361 752 403) is Bali’s first Irish pub and fulfils the role down to a fine art. Hearty Guinness pie, Storm ales, Irish bands, pool, darts and a big screen for live sports set the scene, while charity quiz nights every Tuesday and Thursday kick your brain into gear. (P:29, ref:B3)

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M-Bar-Go (Jl Legian, T: 0361 756 280) is two floors with a chic industrial theme, minimal lighting, dark décor and an underground vibe. Glass doors at the front open into a vast, air-conditioned interior space where resident DJs play a mix of hip hop and soul to a younger audience. (P:27, ref:C4) Maccaroni (Jl Legian, T: 0361 754 662) is a popular wine and dine spot and is perfect for a slower start to a late Kuta evening. (P:27, ref:C4)

Oceans 27 (Discovery Esplanade, T: 0361 765 027, www.oceans27.net) offers a place to lounge by day and party by night, right on the beach. Daily chill out sunset sessions give way to pumping tunes from local and international DJs. (P:29, ref:B2) Paddys Reloaded (Jl Legian, T: 0361 758 555) is always a popular stop off point for revellers either on the way out or the way home from the Kuta bars and clubs. An easy place to find a dancing partner for the night. (P:27, ref:C5) Red Square (Pullman Legian Nirwana, Jl Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 767 540 www.redsquarebali.com) is all about the vodka, whether it’s infused or flavoured, in a shot or a cocktail. Expect to be impressed by the bottle spinning antics and special fire effects performed by the bar staff. (P:27, ref:A2)

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Rosso Vivo (Jl Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 751 961) promises good times aplenty with a large cocktail list, fine food and resident DJs. Sunday evenings feature live Latin music by Chalwanka. (P:27, ref:B5) l Sky Garden Lounge (Jl Legian, T: 0361 756 362)has expanded upwards and outwards since its initial opening and now houses a myriad of dancefloors, chill out areas, bars and a VIP area which draw a mixed crowd every night of the week. Post party munchies can be found downstairs at ESC. (P:27, ref:C4)

dining out There are heaps of very reasonably priced places to eat in Kuta. You can easily live for three days on a Kuta menu for the price of a single meal in Seminyak and the standards of cuisine have improved dramatically of recent, especially in the Tuban area. The Balcony (Jl Benesari, T: 0361 750 655) is the surfers’ hangout of choice. Large selection of Asian and Western cuisine, friendly vibe and a good chance of some pro surfer spottings in the evenings. (P:27, ref:B3) Dog Dragon Grill (Jl Benesari, T: 0361 923 2628) is a great place for dinner and drinks before you hit the clubs. Choose a

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grill cut, sauce and side orders from the mix and match grill menu, and enjoy some friendly banter over a beer or two. (P:27, ref:C3) l Envy (Jl Wana Segara 33, T: 0361 752 527, www.envy-bali.com) chill out, order some snacks and watch the world go by from the comfort of a lounger at this chic modern venue casual beachfront dining at its best in the heart of Kuta Tuban. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the à la carte menu features international cuisine and freshly grilled meats. (P:29, ref:A4)

l ESC Urban Food Station (Jl Legian, T: 0361 756 362)is heaven for the hungry - sandwiches and snacks jostle against steaks, tapas and yet more tasty morsels on a menu that is positively bulging with temptation. Right below Sky Garden Lounge, it’s the perfect refuelling stop after a night on the tiles. Open 24 hours - delivery also available. (P:27, ref:C4)

Kafe Batan Waru (in front of Bali Garden Hotel, Tuban, T: 0361 766 303) is very popular for their Indonesian menu. Try the Bebek Goreng (fried crispy duck) for a lunchtime snack or the Nasi Campur (mixed rice, vegetables and meat) for an authentic taste of Balinese cuisine. (P:29, ref:B2)

Ma Joly (Kupu Kupu Barong Beach Resort, Jl Pantai Segara, T: 0361 753 780) is a classy www.theislandkey.com

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beachfront venue with a variety of informal dining areas. The light and fresh French cuisine is perfect for the relaxed location and it’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. (P:29, ref:A4)

Mojos Burritos (Jl Benesari, T: 0361 764 930, www. mojosflyingburritos.com) is the place to go for a Mexican hit - burritos, tacos, quesadillas and all the usual suspects are available, and there’s even a Naked Burrito, served in a bowl, for those watching the waistline. Delivery available. (P:27, ref:B3)

Poppies (Poppies Lane 1, T: 0361 751 059) lays claim to being the original restaurant on Poppies Lane 1. So good the lane was named after it, they serve quality Western cuisine in a tropical garden setting. (P:27, ref:C5) l Queen’s of India (Tuban, T: 0361 765 988, www. queenstandoor.com) is the sister restaurant to Queen’s Tandoor on Jl Legian. Contemporary interior, funky bar and nouveau Indian cuisine make this the Indian restaurant of choice in Tuban. Functions and parties catered to on the first floor. Delivery service available. (P:29, ref:B3) l Ryoshi (Tuban, T: 0361 766 302) is the Kuta branch of Bali’s Japanese restaurant chain. Quality affordable Japanese dining at its best. (P:29, ref:B2) 44

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accommodation Kuta is best known for its narrow lanes offering budget accommodation galore. Families prefer the three and four star resorts lining the more peaceful Tuban beachfront. l Aston Bali Kuta Resort (Jl Majapahit No. 18, T: 762 818, www.balikutaresort.com) offers 4 star hospitality with five different interior design concepts featuring Modern Classic, Modern Minimalist, Modern Retro, Modern Ethnic and Modern Exclusive styles. The 267 rooms all feature LCD TV with satellite channels, balcony, IDD telephone, Internet broadband connection and en suite bathroom facilities that adhere to Aston’s commitment to top quality. (P:27, ref:D5)

l Aston Inn Tuban (Jl Kediri No. 5, T: 0361 762 828, www. astoninntuban.com) is an imaginative new three star concept hotel located in the Tuban area of Kuta. Here Aston redefines the minimalist business hotel with an elegant style, offering soothing colours, chic resort ambience and award winning service standards. Hula’s Café & Pool Bar is a 24 hour kitchen by the pool with a ‘grab and go’ style menu, the entire restaurant area is WiFi enabled.The Lomi Lomi Spa features a seamless fusion between

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International amenities and local ambience - a place where serenity and spirituality, rather than all-out luxury, are emphasized. Therapies include Asian-based scrubs, sauna, steam rooms, baths, masks and massages with Western Jacuzzis. (P:29, ref:D5)

l Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence (Jl Wana Segara, T: 0361 754 999 www.astonkuta. com) is a contemporary sanctuary just a short stroll from the world renowned Kuta Beach, the Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence provides a stylish and comfortable atmosphere as your home away from home. With itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trend setting restaurants, roof top

lounge and luxurious guest rooms designs, each guest will have a truly remarkable experience. The property has over 209 guest rooms with gym facilities, Spassion spa from Martha Tilaar and The Lighthouse Roof top family lounge. (P:29, ref:B4) l Bounty Hotel (Poppies Lane 2, T: 0361 753 030, www. bountyhotel.com) is party central lodgings for the younger crowd staying in Kuta. Wild parties and competitive room rates make this a firm favourite in the area. (P:27, ref:B4)

l Holiday Inn Resort Baruna Bali (Jl Wana Segara 33, T: 0361 755 577, www.holidayinnresorts.

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com) is set on a quiet part of the beachfront in Tuban, minutes from the dizzying delights of downtown Kuta. The resort blends traditional features with funky contemporary interiors and is complete with all the facilities you might expect. (P:29, ref:A4) Hard Rock Hotel (Jl Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 761 869, www. hardrockbeachclub.com) is not a place for quiet relaxation; instead it is a fun, high-energy family destination with live entertainment daily, a large free-form pool and a radio station. (P:27, ref:B5)

Maxi Hotel & Spa (Jl Legian 83A, T: 0361 754 082, www.maxihotel.com) is located in the heart of the shopping and night life centre that is Kuta. The property offers an ideal base for visitors who wish to explore Bali while keeping all the island’s best shops, bars, restaurants and beaches within easy walking distance. Quality, affordable accommodation with spa, restaurant and new meeting room facilities. (P:27, ref:C4)

Poppies Cottages (Poppies Lane 1, T: 0361 751 059) is the mid range option in this part of town. Poppies Cottages feature a small collection of cosy bungalows in a sunken tropical garden that is both central to the busiest part of South Kuta yet suprisingly private and quiet. Very popular so book well in advance. (P:27, ref:C5) 46

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activities If the beach, spas, shops and clubs aren’t enough to occupy your time, try getting a little more adventurous whilst you’re in the Kuta and Tuban area. Harley Davidson (Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass, T: 0361 764 272, www. harley-davidson-bali.com) provides some high power equipment to propel you around the island. Good selection of bikes and friendly, helpful staff, there’s no better way to see Bali. Odyssey Surf School (Jl Pantai Kuta, T: 0361 742 0763) run daily classes on Kuta beach with experienced instructors and custom beginner’s boards. They even guarantee they’ll have learners up and riding waves in next to no time. (P:27, ref:B5)

Paradiso (Kuta Centre, Tuban, T: 0361 761 414) has a large number of American pool tables and is one of the only places in Bali that has a full size snooker table. Ten pin bowling lanes make for a fun outing. (P:29, ref:B2)

l Waterbom (Jl Kartika, Tuban, T: 0361 755 676, www.waterbombali.com) is Bali’s only water park with a great selection of water slides for the young and young at heart. Lots of fun for the family and extremely popular all year round; head in early to beat the queues. (P:29, ref:B3)

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Sunset at The Samaya (courtesy image)

www.theislandkey.com introduction Immediately north-west of Kuta, directly adjoining the Kerobokan suburbs and a stones throw from the rustic charms of the Canggu countryside, lie the neighbourhoods of Legian and Seminyak. Originally separate areas, these two beachside villages have merged together and the similarities, such as the cheap and cheerful eateries, pubs, souvenir shops and market stalls, make it hard to distinguish the boundaries that now hardly exist. Interestingly, Legian was initially developed as an upmarket alternative to Kuta, and the now-hip-and-vibrant Seminyak, which has long been the lure of bohemians and jetsetters, was promoted as the peaceful option. Jl Arjuna (aka Jl Double Six) and Jl Nakula mark the official boundary of Legian and Seminyak. As tourism escalated during the 1980s and 1990s, business opportunities coupled with a laid-back lifestyle attracted entrepreneurs, fashion designers and globetrotters, many of whom built their dream houses beside the Seminyak rice fields. 48

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keyshortcuts Shop hop your way along some of the best boutiques in Bali (see page 52 for shopping recommendations) Take full advantage of top quality spa therapies in Seminyakâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest spas (see page 60 for wellbeing recommendations) Dine like royalty at the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hottest eateries (see page 66 for dining recommendations) Take a break in some of the best villas and resorts on the island (see page 74 for accommodation recommendations) Learn to surf with the pros (see page 80 for activities)

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Seminyak is Bali’s late-night party land, laying claim to the highest concentration of independent finedining restaurants on the island, together with a wide choice of chic cocktail bars, nightclubs, lavish spas, elegant boutiques, prestigious hotels and private villas. The sweeping beach is renowned for its surf breaks and panoramic coastline views, and is the place where the local and expat communities gather every evening at sunset. A playground of the rich, the famous and the bon vivants, the vibrant nightlife and luxurious accommodation of Seminyak draws a sophisticated crowd of `beautiful people’, especially from Europe. getting there The days of the bemo (or public minibus) in Legian and Seminyak are pretty much over. Motorcycles, private car and driver and taxis are the preferred means of transport nowadays. Automatic scooters in Legian and Seminyak are available to rent for IDR 40,000 (negotiable) per day. From the airport a pre-paid taxi from the counter will cost IDR 75,000 depending on which part of Legian or Seminyak you’re heading to. Walk outside the airport and flag down a passing cab and the metered fare will set you back closer to IDR 50,000. Travelling from Kuta 50

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to Seminyak requires a bit of effort on the one-way streets along the beach. Instead ask the taxi driver to go via Sunset Road and the travel time will be cut drastically. Entering into Seminyak from Canggu or from the Sunset Road Seminyak exit is a straightforward affair but can become easily clogged with traffic around the close of business (5pm) and especially during the height of the wet season where sections of the ring road are prone to severe flooding. beach life The sweeping Legian and Seminyak Beach is an extension of Kuta Beach proper, stretching the length of the southwestern side of Bali. This is one of the busiest stretches of beach on the island and there are many hawkers that can be a challenge to dodge. A paved boulevard (inaccessible to traffic) runs along a large stretch of the Legian beach from the corner of The Legian Beach Hotel all the way to the Jayakarta resort and the bars, restaurants and clubs on Jl Double Six. Be cautious when swimming; the rip currents here can be strong and dangerous and do claim lives each year - don’t even think about a post club swim at night. Sun loungers can be hired for around IDR 50,000 for the day but be prepared to negotiate down from a higher price. The semi www.theislandkey.com

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private beach area in front of The Samaya resort is a good spot to escape the unwelcome attention of the beach sellers. The Samaya beach is adjacent to the holy temple site of Petitenget and temple officials there strictly disallow business activities on this stretch of the Seminyak sand. the surf Often a couple of feet larger than Kuta, Legian and Seminyak pick up an extra boost of swell making the shifting sandbanks a perfect playground for visiting rippers. Learners should stick to the Kuta breaks, as Legian and Seminyak can get crowded with more proficient surfers. Surfboards can be rented on the beach but most surfers arrive with their own boards. Dodge the traffic and pull up by the beach to easily access the following beach breaks. Ku De Ta (Jl Laksmana, Seminyak) is a perfect long boarding wave that breaks way out the back and reforms on the way up to the beach; left and right peaks can handle up to 3ft then start closing out. A good beginners spot if the size isn’t too much of a challenge. Post surf martinis at Ku De Ta a must, but ditch the board before hitting the bar. All levels. 52

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Legian (opposite The Legian Beach Hotel) occasionally throws up some good banks towards a higher tide. 2-3ft is best here lots of peaks can spread out the crowds some but there’s still a large local presence claiming the best waves. Good spot for a surf check in the morning - if there’s reasonable swell here and the banks are handling the size then a trip to Canggu is on the cards. All levels. Padma (Jl Padma, Legian) is a left right left combo wave that can be great one day and the next a total mess. Head here on the incoming tide, high tide closes out the channel whilst outgoing tides can provide some fun waves. Lots of reform action from both peaks, perfect for cutbacks, airs and the occasional short barrel section. Waves right up to the beach but be prepared to deal with the crowd factor. Good at 2-3ft, closes out at 4ft plus. All levels. shopping & style If you’re a shopaholic, you’re in the right place. Over the last few years there has been a flood of new designer boutiques to the Seminyak area. Jl Laksmana, otherwise known as `Eat Street’, is now the street to `shop between courses’ with Jl Kunti gaining ground fast, home to a mix of boutique couture and some very www.theislandkey.com

endearing spas on the same stretch. Seminyak is best regarded as serving up some glam tropical panache collections featuring ethnic chic designs executed in richly garnished silks, diaphanous chiffons and strong, deep colours - perfect for Bali’s glamorous night scene. The shopping experience starts on the corner of Jl Legian and runs all the way to Jl Laksmana. Spend a day going in one direction and the next hitting the other side of the street - there’s simply too much to see in one Legian and Seminyak shopping session. 69Slam (Jl Laksmana 30, T: 0361 960 4170, www.69slam. com) has its roots firmly in the Bali surf culture, and is famous for its boldly printed, form-fitted underwear and swimwear for guys and girls. (P:51, ref:C1)

Bamboo Blonde (Jl Laksmana 61, T: 0361 742 5290) features unique, flirty styles for day-wear and sexy evening wear. Fresh and distinctive, it is taking the island by storm with new stores popping up regularly - the latest on Jl Legian in Kuta. (P:49, ref:C4) Biasa (Jl Raya Seminyak, T: 0361 730 308, www.biasabali. com) stocks quality, easy to breathe linens and cotton designs for him and her. Not cheap but perfectly suited to the tropical climate. Biasa also run a contemporary art gallery next door that’s worth investigating. (P:51, ref:C3) 54

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l Body & Soul (Flagship Store Jl Raya Seminyak 11, T: 0361 733 564 www.bodyandsoulclothing. com) stocks everything from cool casuals, summer essentials and swimwear, to hip club wear and unique accessories at prices to please the masses. The teens and baby ranges also have some cute and cool pieces. Stores also in Legian, Kuta Square, Discovery Mall and Nusa Dua. (P:51, ref:C3) Casa Gourmet (Seminyak Square, Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 738 026) has general groceries as well as gourmet products in its deli counters: mouthwatering cakes, fresh meat cuts and a large cheese selection. There is also an indoor cafe area where you can sit and take a break. (P:49, ref:A4) Dandelion (Jl Raya Seminyak, T: 0361 730 375, www. dandelionkid.com) stocks clothing, gifts and accessories for kids aged 3 to 12 years. The soft and comfortable fabrics are perfect for play or lazy days, while cute prints and classic styles make perfect partywear. (P:51, ref:C1) Dejong (Jl Dhyana Pura 10, Jl Seminyak 35, T: 0361 732 969/ 732 107, www.dejongfashion.com) is a men’s fashion boutique offering a modern casual collection in linen, cotton and other light fibres ideal for tropical climates. Belts, bags and other masculine accessories are also in stock. (P:51, ref:C2, C3)

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Dinda Rella (Jl Laksmana 45, Jl Raya Seminyak 44, T: 0361 736 953/ 730 444, www.dindarella. com) creates veritable fashion masterpieces in luxurious fabrics and glamorous styles, all complemented by exotic accessories - stop in to find your ‘dream in dresses’. Then all you need to find is a ball to attend. (P:51, ref:C3) Dragonfly Blue Swimwear (Jl Raya Seminyak 34X, T: 0361 739 372, www.dflyswimwear. com) uses the best Italian fabrics to produce swimwear that makes you look and feel great. Their products are designed, worn and tested by surfers and sold separately to ensure practicality and comfort. Kendra Gallery (Jl Drupadi, T: 0361 736 628, www. kendragallery.com) is a sleek, open space devoted to the exposure of the burgeoning local contemporary art scene. Revolving exhibitions keep this centre for alternative arts at the forefront of the Balinese and Indonesian art scene. (P:49, ref:D5) Léollé (Jl Kerobokan 11, T: 0361 732 234, www.leollebali. com) has a large selection of Asian inspired homewares, gift ideas, seasonal decorations and storage solutions, as well as some furniture items and sculptures. (P:49, ref:D2) l Lily Jean (Jl Raya Seminyak 58, Jl Laksmana 102, T: 0361 847 5872, www.lily-jean.com) offers women a selection of day and evening wear that 56

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includes everything from soft, stylish casuals to glamorous party frocks, all in stunning fabrics and unique prints. The beautiful pieces strike a balance between comfort, allure and sensuality to create an ultimately wearable range. Super stylish, timeless designs perfect for balmy Bali and glamorous nights out back home. (P:49, ref:C4, P:51, ref:C2) Lucy’s Batik (Jl Raya Seminyak 88, T: 0361 795 1275, www.lucysbatik.com) is dedicated to showcasing items decorated with Indonesia’s famous Batik designs, from wall hangings and placemats, to clothing such as scarves and sarongs. The collection includes batik on cotton, silk and pineapple skin. l Niluh Djelantik (Jl Raya Kerobokan 144, T: 0361 733 074) is synonymous with shoes galore and is the place to go for expertly made footwear of almost any type you can imagine. The stunning designs, high quality materials used and classic style have attracted celebrity customers such as Cameron Diaz and Gisele Bündchen, lending a certain star status to this chic Bali boutique. In the event that you don’t see what you want, staff can help to create personalised designs. (P:49, ref:D4) l Paul’s Place (Jl Laksmana & Jl Raya Petitenget, T: 0361 736 910/733 886) is for taste conscious ladies and gentlemen. This boutique carries collections with contemporary chic and strong Asian www.theislandkey.com

influences. Cotton and rayon fabrics are light, comfortable and casual perfect for the tropical Bali climate. Paul’s Place caters to all with sizes from small to XXXL. (P:49, ref:B2, B5) Paul Ropp (Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 734 208, www.paulropp. com) is Bali’s originator of `hippy chic’. Top dollar bright and bold outfits for all ages; belts, bags and jewellery selections are highly original if not a little on the pricey side. (P:51, ref:C3) Puravida (Jl Raya Seminyak, T: 0361 743 1914) are the kings of retro 60s and 70s cool. Expect plenty of funky, afro-inspired dresses, skirts, sandals and platforms - young, hip and lots of fun for ladies. (P:51, ref:C3) Religion (Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 731 916)is now in Bali with a brand new store, chock-full of their studded, distressed and vintage-themed pieces. Funky tees and cool accessories are the order of the day here. (P:49, ref:C4) Sabbatha (Jl Raya Seminyak, T: 0361 731 756, www.sabbathabali. com) produces incredibly stylish and decorative handbags, belts and accessories. Perfection comes at a price but the investment is worthwhile. (P:51, ref:C1) l Simplekonsepstore (Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 730 393 www. simplekonsepstore.com) is the place where top drawer Italian design combines with antique tradition to produce an eclectic range of accessories, unique clothing and

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exclusive homewares, lighting and furniture in this chic Seminyak boutique. Exclusive jewellery by Vivienne Westwood makes a bold statement and complements the essence of SKS throughout. Expect to find cool and cutting edge designs and products you can’t find anywhere else in Bali in this one of a kind store in the heart of Seminyak. (P:49, ref:C4) Sourcing Bali (Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 744 8025, www.sourcingbali.com) provides a one-stop product sourcing service for a range of Indonesian products for both private and corporate buyers. They can arrange personalised shopping programmes, giving access to high quality products at the best prices. Partner company Rim Cargo professionally handles door to door shipping of your purchases. (P:49, ref:C4) Spicy (Jl Raya Seminyak 34, T: 0361 703 477, www.spicyclothing. com) has a collection featuring earthy colours and natural textiles, in timeless, funky styles. Unique trimmings and careful hand-crafting lend an individual feel to the pieces. Store also in Kuta. (P:51, ref:C3) Wrkshp 13 (Jl Petitenget) is the brainchild of designer Johnny Ramli and stocks a selection of his unique pieces. Distinctive bags and shoes come close to being classified as works of art in their own right. (P:49, ref:A3)

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wellbeing Just the antidote to the busy shopping scene, the spas of Seminyak offer five star therapies at a fraction of the cost charged overseas. There’s no excuse not to indulge in a rejuvenating Balinese massage or push the boat out and truly indulge in some startlingly creative signature treatments. Amo Beauty & Spa (Jl Petitenget 100x, T: 0361 275 3338) is the newest addition to the wellbeing fraternity in Seminyak and has already garnered a loyal following. A full range of import products and attentive, welltrained and talented staff provide almost every hair treatment under the setting Bali sun as well as a wide array of manicures and pedicures. (P:49, ref:A3) l Ayur Spa (Jl Petitenget, T: 0361 8476 628, www. thekayana.com) is an oasis of tranquility set in the grounds of The Kayana. Traditional massage and indulgent body treatments are order of the day here. (P:49, ref:A3)

l Chill (Jl Kunti, T: 0361 730

840, www.thevillas.net) is situated next door to Prana Spa and The Villas and provides visitors with a stylish interior and uncomplicated, affordable treatments by male and female therapists. (P:51, ref:D1) 60

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l Luxe Lounge (Sentosa Private Villas & Spa, Jl Petitenget, T: 0361 730 333, www.balisentosa.com) offer a number of creative and indulgent signature treatments such as `Chocolate Fondue’, `Citrus Zing’ and `Exotic Spice’ amongst a myriad of other options including traditional massage, reflexology, facial, nail and hair care all in the recently refurbished and stylish Sentosa surroundings. Check for special packages and other offers. (P:49, ref:B3)

l Manik (Jl Legian, T: 0361 761 147) is an Australian owned and run hair and beauty salon also specialising in acrylic and gel nails courtesy of a professional nail technician, cosmetic tattoos and high quality European hair extensions. A new Manik salon can also be found in Tuban, Kuta. (P:51, ref:D6) l MSpa (Jl Laksmana & Jl Petitenget, T: 0361 736 910) caters to ladies and gentlemen and has exclusively male therapists. There are plenty of massages, reflexology, body masks and scrubs on offer as well as manicure and skin treatments. (P:49, ref:B2, B5)

l Prana (Jl Kunti, T: 0361 730 840, www.thevillas.net) can lay claim to being the largest and most impressive spa in the Seminyak locale. Styled like a chic Indian fortress the spa features some of Bali’s best treatments, expertly

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executed by a bank of highly experienced therapists. Treatments are almost limitless with the `Ayurvedic Rejuvenation’ and `Spirit of Bali’ being two notable signature therapies. Men are equally well catered to with a ninety-minute Male Indulgence package and the healthy restaurant downstairs serves some of the best Chai on the island making Prana a very highly recommended spa stop for any Seminyak excursion. (P:51, ref:D1)

l Spa @ The Samaya (Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 731 149, www.thesamayabali.com) comes recommended for those requiring a scenic backdrop to their spa treatment. The beachside spa overlooking the ocean is sublimely located, offering luscious massages, yoga and therapies. The newly opened studio next door to the spa has a full selection of manicures, pedicures and a staff of trained hairstylists. (P:49, ref:A4) l Spa @ Uma Sapna (Jl Drupadi 20XX, T: 0361 736 628 www.coconuthomes.com) has a list of unique treatments, including a slimming massage and warm stone aromatherapy massage, and yoga programmes of one, three and six days duration, combining yoga practice, meditation and pranayama. Take a break from the everyday and indulge in the signature Love Eternity Asmaradana 62

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package, specially designed for couples and accompanied by the aroma of love. (P:49, ref:D5) l Spa Venus Bali (Villa Kubu Gang Plawa 33F, T: 0361 731 129 www.spavenusbali.com) hosts an array of pampering treatments and holistic therapies in this upmarket Seminyak spa that features a selection of more specialist programs: a session in the far infrared sauna reputedly eliminates eight times more toxins than a regular sauna, while pressure point massage and breathing techniques form an allergy elimination treatment. (P:51, ref:D3)

the bar & club scene There is no shortage of nightclubs, dance-bars, pubs, and bars with live music in the Seminyak and Legian areas. Visitors will find nightclubs in Seminyak where you can party until the very early hours, but they don’t start pumping until about 2am. Drinks vary in price from one place to the next but expect to pay more in the real `buzz spots’ and big name bars in this world famous party destination. l Bacio (Jl Double Six, T: 0361 802 7174, www.bacioclub.com) is the hippest club on the strip of Double Six. Split onto two floors the music policy veers between funky/ soulful and harder edged electrowww.theislandkey.com

tinged 4/4. Expect the crowd here to always be out for a good time. Arrive around 1am and dress smarter than you would normally in Bali - Bacio attracts a more upmarket clientele. (P:51, ref:A3)

Black Dog (Jl Legian) is arguably Bali’s most happening night spot. Owned and run by some of the island’s surf elite this low key joint erupts on Friday and Saturday nights only. Expect an underground gathering of cool kids and surfer types. Cheap beers and honest cocktails rule the night at The Dog. (P:51, ref:C3) Déjà Vu (Jl Double Six, T: 0361 732 777) hosts some of the funkiest House DJs on the island with regular special parties and one-off events. Loud, proud and very in your face it can be lots of fun but arrive late around 2am to catch the place in full swing. (P:51, ref:B4) Double Six Club (Jl Double Six, T: 0361 734 300) is pretty much Bali’s only `superclub’. Inside and outdoor areas, huge sound rigs and one of the only places on the island to attract big name international DJ talent, this place remains busy year after year. (P:51, ref:B3)

Hu’u (Jl Petitenget, T: 0361 736 443) pioneered the art of the great Lychee Martini in cosy garden surrounds. Weekends see the bar come to life with a variety of DJ talent. Very popular with the Jakarta 64

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weekend crowd, Hu’u also hosts high season parties with big name Indonesian DJs gracing the turntables. (P:49, ref:A4)

Hypnotique (Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 732 202, www.hypnotiquebali. com) is Seminyak’s latest offering to the clubbing world. Already attracting good word of mouth in town this brand new bar and club has adopted an urban soul and rare groove music policy ramping things up a notch at the weekend. Great drinks too. (P:49, ref:B4)

l Ku De Ta (Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 736 969, www.kudeta.net) is the kingpin of the Seminyak bar scene. The famous ocean facing red umbrellas front the newly refurbished bars and restaurant areas. A must visit for sunset Ku De Ta is also popular with those in the know for good value breakfasts and brunches. Now with Theta Spa therapies by the beach. (P:49, ref:A5)

The Living Room (Jl Petitenget, T: 0361 735 735) transforms from a magical dining setting to a chic bar/club at the stroke of midnight and attracts all the local expatriate playboys. A slinky house and garage soundtrack accompanies well mixed cocktails well into the early hours. (P:49, ref:A4)

Mixwell (Jl Dhyana Pura, T: 0361 736 846) is a newcomer to the `alternative’ Bali party scene. Very popular with flirty boys, girly www.theislandkey.com

girls and everyone in-between. Visit with an open mind and a friendly attitude. (P:51, ref:B2) l SOS Beach (Anantara, Jl Dhyana Pura, T: 0361 737 773) affords visitors a sweeping view of the beaches and some of the most inventive cocktail concoctions on the island. By day, enjoy freshly squeezed tropical fruit medleys before catching the famous Seminyak sunset as SOS ushers in a cast of international DJs playing a mix of chilled beats to match the evocative sunsets. Open 4pm to 11pm. (P:49, ref:B7) dining out There is a virtually endless range of dining choices in Legian and Seminyak, especially on Jl Laksmana. The diversity of styles, settings, ambience and cuisine is huge. Fabulous dining is on the menu and with a large expatriate population in Seminyak plus so much competition, standards are high and there is something to suit absolutely everybodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s budget. Bali Catering Company (Jl Petitenget, T: 0361 737 324, www. balicateringcompany.com) is a onestop solution for gourmet needs. A great selection of homemade sandwiches, cookies and cakes to takeaway and an extensive menu of items for private catering 66

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of events and parties. (P:49, ref:A3) Biku (Jl Petitenget 888, T: 0361 8570 888, www.bikubali.com) has a selection of teas on a list as long as your arm â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and the high tea to go with it. Scones, sandwiches, quiche, cakes, cookies and your choice of tea are all yours for a steal. Live music Sundays from 5.00. (P:49, ref:A3) l Blossom (Sentosa Private Villas & Spa, Jl Petitenget, T: 0361 730 333, www.balisentosa.com) continues to be a popular dining venue with Seminyak visitors. Blossom presents a mix of Global and Asian style cuisines helmed by Executive Chef Chris Patzold who serves a mix of chic and delectable dishes in a refined urban tropical setting. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Dinner reservations are necessary. (P:49, ref:B4)

l Breeze (The Samaya, Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 731 149, www. thesamayabali.com) is beachfront dining par excellence at a truly spellbinding sunset location. Check out the wide selection of wine and whiskies for a refined sunset experience. (P:49, ref:A4) Chandi (Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 731 060, www.chandibali.com) is the place to head on Eat Street for reasonably priced gastronomic pan Asian cuisine using only locally grown organic produce. Al fresco seating, air-conditioned interior and rooftop dining available. Chandi also

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has some of the best DJs in town on rotation, so hang around after dinner. (P:49, ref:B4)

Dahana (Jl Petitenget 90, T: 0361 730 131) offers a range of flavoursome Japanese dishes in splendid villa surroundings. Great service, low prices and quality food make this hidden gem a local favourite. (P:49, ref:B2) Flying Fish Restaurant @ O-CE-N (Jl Double Six 88x, T: 0361 737 400, www.o-ce-n. com) perches on the upper deck of the seafront resort, and specialises in seafood from the pick-your-own market. Grab a cocktail for the perfect sunset sea view. (P:51, ref:B4) l Gado Gado (Jl Dhyana Pura, T: 0361 736 966, www. gadogadorestaurant.com) has secured its throne as one of the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best fine dining venues. New chef, new menu and a return to `Classic Europeanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cuisine make this beachside restaurant a firm favourite with return visitors to Bali and newcomers alike. Highly recommended for signature Gado Gado sunset cocktails and an intimate early dinner or for larger groups. Reservations necessary. (P:51, ref:A3)

l Grocer & Grind (Jl Kayu Jati 3x T: 0361 730 418 www. grocerandgrind.com) serves up simple and stylish breakfast and brunch dishes, light lunches and 68

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grazing plates and comfort food by night. Stop by for a coffee and take advantage of the free WiFi; enjoy a glass of quality wine; stock up on goodies from the gourmet delicatessen; or let the urban bistro come to you: pantry service, gourmet hampers, villa service menu and outside catering also available. (P:49, ref:B4) Warung Gossip (Jl Pengubengan Kauh, Kerobokan) has a large selection of good quality Indonesian, Asian and European food at very reasonable prices, and has a lovely outdoor seating area in an enclosed garden. Warung Italia (Jl Kunti 2, T: 0361 737 437) lets diners choose from pastas and pizzas on the menu, or from a selection of ready-made dishes in the display. Cheap and tasty, but service is slow. (P:51, ref:C1) l K2 (Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 747 2324) links to neighbouring Kaizan but strikes a very different path with street style Izakaya dining brought to Bali. Some of the most unique Japanese dishes are to be found at K2. Open from lunch to 2am everyday this spot is always popular with a mix of international diners and for good reason. (P:49, ref:B4) l Kaizan (Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 747 2324) is a hybrid Japanese/ Korean offshoot of sister restaurant chain Ryoshi, set on two floors. The upstairs restaurant area is cavernous

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and the perfect spot to sit and people watch from the low slung cushioned tables. Set back from the upstairs space is the sushi bar whilst downstairs is the fully air-conditioned dining room adjoining K2. Try the imported Japanese plum wine here coupled with the `Kaizan Carpaccio’ of tuna for a real treat. (P:49, ref:B4) Kembang Goela (Jl Petitenget 27C, T: 0361 738 076) is known for its authentic Indonesian cuisine, including many lesser-known dishes. The original Jakarta restaurant is now legendary with the Bali branch rapidly becoming a firm favourite with visitors keen to sample some really authentic fine Indonesian dining. (P:49, ref:B2) Warung Kolega (Jl Petitenget, T: 0361 732 480) needs no fancy décor - the food speaks for itself. Cheap and tasty, the predominantly Indonesian food is a hit with locals and expats alike, and the tables are packed with happy eaters day after day. (P:49, ref:B2) l Ku De Ta (Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 736 969, www.kudeta. net) serves a modern Australian menu in a semi formal environment, grazing style fusion dishes at the bars and probably the best breakfast/ brunch deal on the island. The newly renovated bar area also serves a selection of gourmet pizzas whilst upstairs the VIP bar KuVé offers premium drinks and canapés for the truly discerning. (P:49, ref:A5) 70

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La Cantina ( J l Pe n g u b e n g a n Ka u h, Kero b o ka n, T: 036 1 73 1 840 ) has a tempting menu that includes Asian and European dishes. Set in distinctly Balinese ricefield surroundings, it’s a pretty place to stop for lunch. l La Sal (Jl Drupadi, T: 0361 738 321) can lay claim to the title of Bali’s leading Spanish restaurant and for good reason. The tapas menu is outstanding and consistently top quality. The Iberico ham and `Creamy Ibiza Potatoes’ are two reasons to visit La Sal, as is the home-style Paella. The garden transforms to host the nightly Argentinian barbeque whilst the bar serves fine martinis and a wide selection of wines. Open daily for lunch and dinner; La Sal also caters to private parties and in- villa dining. Dinner reservations are necessary. Look out for the new La Sal opening soon in Echo Beach, Canggu. (P:49, ref:D5)

l Mannekepis (Jl Raya Seminyak, T: 0361 847 5784, www. mannekepis-bistro.com) has crashed the Seminyak dining party and pretty much stolen the Seminyak show for decently prepared steaks with outstanding à la minute sauces, fresh seafood and European beers galore in a casual Belgian `Brown Café’ style. An all round favourite for lunch and dinner with live blues bands and acoustic sets on the weekends. (P:51, ref:C2)

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Marzano (Jl Double Six, T: 0361 874 4438) is an unmistakably Italian café which serves up great pasta and wood-fired pizza and has a large selection of antipasti. The food is cheap and good and the atmosphere is lively. (P:51, ref:B4)

Métis (Jl Petitenget 6, T: 0361 737 888, www.metisbali.com) is the latest entry in Seminyak’s dining annals. From the same people that brought you Kafe Warisan comes an entirely sensory experience with a menu of fresh, sumptuous French and Moroccan inspired cuisine and a setting that overlooks tranquil rice fields much like the original Warisan sported all those years ago. Work off your meal with a wander round the gallery and two boutiques. Private dining and live DJ’s over dinner make Metis the restaurant to watch in 2010. (P:49, ref:C1) l Queen’s Tandoor (Jl Raya Seminyak , T: 0361 732 770, www. queenstandoor.com) has been an Indian institution in Seminyak (newly opened branch also in Tuban, Kuta) since the birth of the international dining scene in Bali. Always good value for money with efficient service and extremely tasty fare. Delivery service available. Reservations recommended. (P:51, ref:C2) Rumours (Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 747 5868) is possibly the most social restaurant in Seminyak owing to the fact that it is almost permanently full from early evening to the early hours. Reasonably priced, good quality fare 72

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and a fun drinks menu ensure a big crowd, nightly. (P:49, ref:C4) Sardine (Jl Petitenget 21, T: 0361 738 202, www.sardinebali. com) is a new casual and stylish seafood restaurant with tasty and original dishes. The dining room is housed in a spectacular bamboo room with modern nautical décor. (P:49, ref:C1)

l Sarong (Jl Petitenget, T: 0361 737 809, www.sarongbali.com) is extremely popular with Bali expatriates and visitors alike. Affordably priced by Seminyak standards this easygoing and warmly decorated bar and restaurant serves truly top drawer Thai and Asian cuisines by celebrated chef Will Meyrick. Tapas style dishes are served to be shared with friends and encourage some culinary adventure across the Asian regions. An extensive wine menu is part of the Sarong experience as is a selection of expertly mixed cocktails and long drinks at the bar. A highly recommended Seminyak eatery, Sarong never fails to delight. Reservations necessary. (P:49, ref:A3) l Wild Orchid (Anantara, Jl Dhyana Pura, T: 0361 737 773, www.bali.anantara.com) is nestled in a very romantic atmosphere in front of the beach of Anantara and presents neo authentic Thai cuisine with a gentleness, elegance and refinement. The mix of traditional and contemporary dishes and incredible setting is delightful. (P:51, ref:A2)

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legian & seminyak

accommodation Unlike the Kuta area, Legian and Seminyak have less backpacker style accommodation and more choice in the mid range to luxury class league. Staying in Seminyak means enjoying stunning villas, world-class resorts and hotel rooms with convenient access to the shops, bars, spas and restaurants. l 100 Sunset Boutique Hotel (Jl Sunset Road 100, T: 0361 766 500, www.100Sunset.com) is a modern minimalist boutique hotel located at the crossroads of Bali, connecting Seminyak with Nusa Dua and Kuta with Sanur. Clean lines, open layouts, and cool colours accent the design of this brand new hotel built for the discerning leisure or business travellers. With a unique blend of hotel rooms, one bedroom suites and two bedroom serviced apartments, both short term and long term guests will find something to match their needs. l The Amala (Jl Kunti, T: 0361 738 866, www.theamala.com) is a perfectly located wellness retreat quietly tucked away in the midst of Seminyak. The intimate villas are perfect for couples and their spa focuses on Asian medicines and Western holistic philosophies. (P:51, ref:C1) l Anantara (Jl Dhyana Pura, T: 0361 737 773, www.bali. anantara.com) boasts fifty nine 74

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expansive and hi-tech suites, a Thai restaurant offering both poolside and indoor dining, spa, gym, and an ocean facing swimming pool. This is top-level accommodation in the Seminyak area. (P:49, ref:B7) l Aston Bhavana Private Villas (Jl Pangkung Sari, T: 0361 730 533, www.astonbhavana. com) Each villa is entirely selfcontained, with its own swimming pool, air-conditioned bedrooms (with ensuites), indoor / outdoor bathroom and a separate living pavilion and self-contained kitchen. With cable TV, DVD players and stereos, every modern convenience is at your disposal including in-villa spa treatments and private in-villa dining from the personal bank of chefs. Free broadband internet connection in the lobby area. (P:49, ref:C4)

l The Elysian (Jl Sari Dewi 18, T: 0361 730 999, www.theelysian. com) is a romantic haven where literally your every whim is taken care of by attentive staff. Right in the heart of Bali’s most cosmopolitan area, there is no shortage of things to do although it’s possible that you won’t want to leave this contemporary sanctuary anyway. (P:49, ref:B6) l Kamuela Villas Seminyak (Jl Kunti 88, T: 0361 780 0535, www.kamuelavillas.com) all nine villas are well appointed with wonderful contemporary design

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influences offering an intimate retreat experience and their own signature blend of romance, rejuvenation and exotic sensuality. The living and dining areas have a gourmet fitted kitchen and open into the pool area while each beautifully appointed bedroom with LCD TV, cable television and IDD telephone features its own en-suite bathroom with spa bath menu and luxurious amenities. (P:51, ref:D1)

l The Kayana (Jl Petitenget, T: 0361 8476 628, www.thekayana. com) is a collection of twenty-four contemporary and very private one and two bedroom villas perfectly situated in the heart of Seminyak. Excellent mid range accommodation thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very popular with vacationing younger couples. (P:49, ref:A3) l The Samaya (Jl Laksmana, T: 0361 731 149, www.thesamayabali. com) lies right on its own semi-private beach in Seminyak. Stunning location, gracious and friendly staff, a great bar, decent food and a well appointed spa make The Samaya a very popular luxury resort and an award winner in its own right. (P:49, ref:A4) l Sentosa Private Villas & Spa (Jl Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget, T: 0361 730 333, www.balisentosa. com) is contemporary luxury living at its finest. A collection of one to five bedroom residences, all with private pool and sundeck, generous sunken baths and fully equipped gourmet 76

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kitchens; fully serviced, private and perfect for style conscious Seminyak visitors. (P:49, ref:B3) l The Seri Villas (Gang Telaga Waja, T: 0361 801 3577, www. theserivillas.com) is a tranquil boutique resort in the heart of Petitenget. The nine two- and three-bedroom luxury villas all have private pools, are fully serviced and are within walking distance to the beach and boutiques in Seminyak. Contact The Seri Villas directly for Island Key exclusive villa offers. (P:49, ref:B3) l Uma Sapna (Jl Drupadi 20xx T: 0361 736 628 www. coconuthomes.com) boasts an enviable location in central Seminyak, minutes from the best shopping, dining and entertainment options around. Contemporary design is reminiscent of Balinese creativity, while excellent comfort and service showcases local hospitality at its best. The attached spa is open to guests and non-guests alike. (P:49, ref:D5) Villa Coco (Jl Double Six, T: 0361 730 736, www.villacoco. com) has private one- and twobedroom villas, each with individual entrance, garden and lawn, and a four-bedroom luxury villa with private pool. Beach, shops and restaurants are just a short stroll away and the villas are remarkably quiet and private considering their central location to the bustling street life in central Legian and Double Six beach. (P:51, ref:B3) www.theislandkey.com

l Villa Karisa (Jl Drupadi 100x T: 0361 739 395 www. villakarisabali.com) the spacious surroundings of Villa Karisa are exotically landscaped, alluding to a paradise rarely found in central Seminyak. Bohemian chic and global contemporary meet to create a unique style of low-key luxury, giving rise to a great atmosphere. Villa Karisa is perfect for the casual traveller and is a perennial favourite for Baliphiles who appreciate a warm, homely atmosphere perfectly hosted by a caring owner and team. (P:49, ref:D5) l Villa Kubu (Gang Plawa 33F T: 0361 731 129 www.villakubu. com) strikes the perfect balance between elegant luxury, harmony

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with nature and the magical beauty of Bali - and all within a stone’s throw of Seminyak’s smartest bars and boutiques. Exquisite private villas feature furnishings from across Indonesia, bringing together luxury and tradition, and are designed to integrate seamlessly with the outdoors. (P:51, ref:D3)

l The Villas (Jl Kunti, T: 0361 730 840, www.thevillas.net) is located conveniently in the heart of Seminyak with options for one, two and three bedroom villas. Very popular with honeymooners and romantic couples, The Villas is next door to Prana Spa and Chill Reflexology and a short walk from some of the best boutique shopping in town. (P:51, ref:D1)

money changing

Foreign currency, in banknotes and travellers’ cheques, is best exchanged at major banks or authorised money changers. Bring only new and crisp paper currency, especially US dollar bills, as many places will not accept old and faded ones. Smaller US dollar denominations and travellers cheques usually get a slightly lower exchange rate. Money-changers are quicker than banks when it comes to changing travellers cheques. Make sure you bring along your passport for identity and signature verification. If you choose to deal with a moneychanger, be very careful, they are renowned for their quick fingers and rigged calculators; regrettably, a huge number of people get cheated. Beware of moneychangers who offer a higher rate, this is merely a ploy to attract your custom. Verify the exchange calculation (ask to use the calculator or even better bring your own) and count your change before you leave the window. One recommended money changer in Kuta is Wahana Khrisna Dana (Jl Kuta Raya, T: 0361 766 811). 78

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activities If the dining, shopping and spas of Legian and Seminyak don’t manage to fill your day then maybe you need some adventure. The beach around the Double Six locale is where most of the Seminyak action goes down, the surf is less crowded, but caution needs to be taken as the currents here are strong, certainly not the area to go for a postclub swim. AJ Hackett (Jl Double Six, T: 0361 731 144, www.ajhackett. com/bali) provide the bungy jump thrills on Bali with a 45 metre high tower overlooking the Seminyak beach stretch. Day and night jumps, solo and tandem options, 100%

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safety record - sunset jumps are spectacular. Check with the team for special discounts and any offers. (P:51, ref:B3)

l AquaMarine Diving (Seminyak, T: 0361 730 107/0361 738 020, www.aquamarinediving.com) offer trips to all destinations in Bali including all transportation, equipment and highly organised `door to ocean floor’ services. (P:49, ref:C1) Rip Curl School of Surf (Jl Double Six, T: 0361 735 858, www.schoolofsurf.com) offer a selection of adrenalin fuelled water pursuits including wake boarding, kite boarding, stand up paddle boarding, windsurfing and the one true ocean pursuit - surfing. (P:49, ref:A3)

road rules

If you are thinking of renting a self-drive car or motorbike, bear in mind that driving in Bali and Lombok can be dangerous. Indonesians drive on the left side of the road, but international traffic regulations and driving conventions are not adhered to. Generally speaking, drivers do not drive defensively; the roads can be narrow, poorly maintained and motorbikes overtake on either side as drivers pull out without looking. It is recommended to sound your horn briefly before overtaking and this is considered polite practice. Right of way belongs to whoever is bigger and if a driver flashes his headlights, it means `get out of my way’. At intersections, hazardwarning lights indicate the intention to go straight ahead. Beware of open storm drains, gaping pot holes, and piles of black building sand dumped on the street. Indonesians are normally willing to help anyone in trouble on the road, and it is customary to offer some small compensation in return. 80

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legian & seminyak

Canggu kite festival frolics (Paul Brooks)

www.theislandkey.com introduction Just a short drive from Seminyak, the traditional village of Canggu is peaceful and quiet; set within emerald rice fields beside rugged surf beaches, this is the first taste of the `other sideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; of Bali, away from the urbanised Seminyak street scene but close enough to take advantage of the best of both worlds. Many expatriates have settled in Canggu and the neighbouring Umalas area forcing the price of land through the roof. The area is now being developed thanks to a wealth of prime real estate but the rustic charm of the west coast survives. Driving through the Canggu villages at daybreak for an early morning surf, dodging the roosters as the sun rises over the east and the moon descends over the ocean is a defining Bali moment. Chancing upon holy ceremonies in the country lanes or meandering through the rice fields by foot or on horseback will occupy your day before sunset transforms the beachfront restaurants into a must dine location. 82

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keyshortcuts Luxuriate in rustic charm in some stunning countryside spas (see page 86 for wellbeing recommendations) Dine on the freshest grilled seafood as the sun sets over the Canggu skyline (see page 88 for dining recommendations) Immerse yourself in the rich culture of Indonesia at Hotel Tugu Bali (see page 90 for accommodation recommendations) Explore the area on horseback or by horse-drawn cart or learn the art of stand up paddling on some of the best waves on the west coast (see page 92 for activities)

B to t

D 1

lot

, ta

Ra ya

ng gu

to kerobokan

Villa Tugu H

Bo lon g

Ba tu

Pondok Batu H H Villa Manggis

Kampung Bali H Spring Villa H Villa Tepikali H Villa Dar Al Arie H Villa Olesha H Bali Kubu H Rama

to ech B a t u Me ob eac jan h

canggu 6

7 A

to berawa

RW A H

Tugu Hotel

R Sticky Fingers R Dian Cafe B R The Beach House

B o lo n g

H Villa Alumbrera

Ra ya

prerenan padang linjong

Pura Batu Bolong

to batu belig & seminyak

The Seri Suites

getting there There’s one easy way and one complicated passage to Canggu and the centre of activity that is Echo Beach. Most people choose the straightforward route through Seminyak and Kerobokan and follow the signs to Hotel Tugu Bali or to The Beach House before turning left towards the ocean. By taxi this route will take approximately twenty minutes from Seminyak for IDR 60,000, thirty or forty from Kuta if the traffic is easygoing (IDR 100,000). It’s best to hire a car for the morning or day but a transport service is available by the beach entrance. If you’re feeling adventurous jump on a rental motorbike and take the back roads through Batu Belig, past Desa Seni and The Canggu Club and head towards Berawa villagethen start asking for directions to Echo Beach! This really handy shortcut takes you past Batu Bolong and through the rice paddy fields, and is better on two wheels as the country lanes are very narrow in places. beach life It’s all about the beach at Canggu. Made famous for the quality surf on hand during the dry season, the majority of business is centred on the cafés and restaurants at Echo Beach. The consistent surf and windswept beach setting is the main draw and 84

canggu

you won’t find the crowds lapping up the rays that you would in Kuta or Seminyak. There are no sun loungers on hand so pack your beach towel and supplies; one major attraction to the beaches of Canggu is the distinct lack of hawkers peddling their wares on the sands. the surf As with all of the west coast, March/April through to September are the months to claim the best swells and conditions. The more exposed nature of the beaches means bigger waves more suited to confident surfers. Beginners are catered for at Berawa on the softer peaks but the reefs at Canggu should be left for the intermediate and advanced crew as they frequently get very crowded and aggression in the water is sadly not unheard of. Have a good investigation of the nearby beaches to Canggu to see what you can find. Berawa (Pantai Berawa) offers an exposed reef break with consistent surf at low tide half way down the beach. Further up towards the Legong Keraton hotel surfers can find good waves on the building tide that sometimes line up perfectly. Beginners can practice in the central section of the beach on the sandbanks but should be wary of the strong rip currents. Beginner to intermediate. www.theislandkey.com

Canggu Left (Echo Beach) is a bowling left hander in front of the cafés of Echo Beach. It can be awesome on its day with a tube section, floater section and opportunities galore for cutbacks. It gets very big very quickly, and attracts a solid crew of skilled locals who have the place wired. Good on the mid tide, sometimes barrels on the outgoing. Four to six foot. Intermediates to advanced. Main Peak (Echo Beach) is a classy right at the river mouth, easy to spot from the cafés. Super crowded and packed with highly competent surfers this quality right hander is something of a rarity in the land of the lefts. Can throw up some good barrels. Mid tide spot, high tide left nearby. Advanced owing to the crowd factor. Old Man’s (Jl Batu Bolong) is a mellow reefbreak right out the back between Tugu and Echo Beach. A right and left setup that is well suited to longboarders and the new wave of stand up boardriders. Intermediates. Tugu’s (Jl Batu Bolong) provides reform beachbreaks and occasionally a good left hander can be found in front of the beach carpark at the end of Jl Batu Bolong. Named after the boutique hotel next door, the waves here are very user friendly and well suited to beginner’s needs. Rising tides up to three feet. Beginner to intermediates. 86

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wellbeing The Canggu area may not boast the same quantity of spas as other parts of the south of Bali, but the natural surroundings and slower pace of life lends itself to a very relaxing environment in which to enjoy some of the best wellbeing therapies on the island. Desa Seni (Jl Kayu Putih, T: 0361 844 6393) provide yoga and traditional Balinese massages as well as detox packages for guests to the resort and outside visitors. Outside guests are welcome to stop by and sample some healthy organic dining and use the swimming pool. l Hotel Tugu Bali (Jl Batu Bolong, T: 0361 731 701, www. tuguhotels.com) offer an incredible variety of treatments based on the blending of exotic spices, roots and herbs. The setting is breathtaking with each treatment area themed to suit a signature therapy. The `Mantra’ room is unique in Bali, combining a deep tissue massage with coconut oils as therapists chant ancient Sanskrit mantras to calm the body, soul and mind. The Gubug Nglamun LehaLeha `daydream’ hut offers a breezy setting near the beach for a traditional Javanese style massage to the sound of the crashing waves. Special spa experiences in an incredibly beautiful location make the spa rooms at Tugu a must visit. (P:83, ref:A7) www.theislandkey.com

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Canggu road-trippinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (David Burden)

dining out The Canggu dining scene is still in the early days of developing but already has some hidden delights that many people don’t know about. l The Beach House (Echo Beach, T: 0361 747 4604) is the place where the local community gathers in the evenings to watch the legendary sunsets. A variety of eating areas and tables spill out onto a beachside buff; there is a comprehensive international menu, together with a daily barbeque of fresh fish, lobster, giant prawns, clams, steaks and kebabs. Live music, performed by accomplished local bands, takes place on Friday and Sunday evenings, starting at around sunset. This is a great social scene; it can get very busy and lively, and the smaller local warungs beside The Beach House accommodate the overflow of customers. (P:83, ref:A6) The Loop (Jl Kayu Putih, T: 0361 803 9005) has a full menu from breakfast to dinner with a wood fire pizza oven. Canggu Deli is right next door with a reasonable selection of import and local produce that is slightly more expensive than their counterparts in Seminyak. Café Moka (Jl Raya Banjar Semer, T: 0361 844 5933) has 88

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fresh pastries and Italian coffees and is a popular spot for expatriates. Sticky Fingers (Echo Beach, T: 0361 809 0903) serves breakfast, lunch and dinner on the two-tiered rooftop lounge and in the cool interior downstairs. The Italian cuisine is a cut above the jaffle and pancake grub served in the neighbouring warungs, although the drinks prices are just as sensible. (P:83, ref:A6)

Sukertis (Jl Pantai Berawa, T: 0361 855 0056) is a hidden gem, behind the Legong Keraton hotel. The restaurant has recently changed hands and now offers a mix of affordable European and Indonesian dishes. Excellent value and open from early til late every day, there’s a small surf shop onsite with shower facilities for the early morning Berawa boardriders. l Hotel Tugu Bali (Jl Batu Bolong, T: 0361 731 701, www. tuguhotels.com) has dining facilities at the hotel including the atmospheric Bale Sutra (a 300-year-old Kang Xi period temple) or a stunning private bed on the private beach, Waroeng Tugu for traditional Indonesian village style cuisine and the very unique option of dining anywhere in the hotel grounds. An open-air barbeque can also be arranged on the private stretch of hotel beach. A unique fine dining experience when in Bali. (P:83, ref:A7) www.theislandkey.com

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dos & don’ts

Do show your respect by wearing a sarong and a sash when entering temples and holy places Do guard against the intense equatorial sun by wearing a hat and using waterproof sunscreen Do drink plenty of bottled water Do be careful with your belongings Do respect the slow pace of Balinese ceremony processions Don’t use your left hand to give or receive things, the Balinese consider the left hand to be unclean and may be offended Don’t touch anyone, even a child, on the head; a person’s head is considered to be the most sacred part of the body Don’t enter temples during menstruation Don’t do drugs Don’t walk in front of people when they are praying at temples canggu

accommodation Lovers of the great outdoors will rejoice in the accommodation to be found in and around the Canggu area. Surfers visit the warungs at Echo Beach for tips on cheap local lodgings in the area close to the waves. Private villas are available to rent whilst existing hotels and resorts are dotted along the coastline. l Alumbrera Villa (Kuta Poleng Arcade D-5, Kuta T: 0361 759 609 www.divinevillasbali.com) capitalises on the gentle pace of life in traditional Canggu: luxurious, stylish, villas are surrounded by distinctly Balinese views of working rice fields. The cafĂŠs of Echo Beach are a mere skip away, although each villa has a kitchen for budding chefs and a terrace for al fresco entertaining. (P:83, ref:A6) Desa Seni (Jl Kayu Putih 13, T: 0361 844 6392, www.desaseni. com) is an eco-friendly village resort made up of antique wooden homes from around Indonesia. The resort offers all modern amenities, as well as yoga retreats, fitness classes, art exhibits, cooking classes, spa treatments and much more. The organic gardens provide fresh ingredients for the Indonesian-inspired European meals on the restaurant menu, while the resort itself acts as a museum, showcasing artefacts that have been lovingly collected 90

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to represent the cultural legacy of Indonesia. Legong Keraton (Jl Pantai Berawa, T: 0361 730 280, www. legongkeratonhotel.com) is situated on a tranquil part of Berawa beach and has a good selection of midrange rooms and cottages. There is an on-site spa with a good selection of massages and Balinese herbal treatments, and the resort also offers a full service. Pantai Lima (Jl Srikandi, T: 0361 844 4555, www.pantailima. com) has five luxury villas, each one architecturally unique and right on the beachfront. Each villa is completely private and has spacious gardens and large pools, and at least five bedrooms. With sweeping beach views, vast grounds and living areas, the estate is ideal for weddings and events. l The Seri Suites (Jl Umalas Kauh, T: 0361 730 262, www. theserisuitesbali.com) is a semi-hidden treat in the middle of the Umalas rice paddies that affords staying guests easy access to Petitenget and Jl Laksmana whilst experiencing a more tradtional side of Balinese village life in the peace of the countryside. The fifteen beautifully appointed Bali apartment style suites can be configured into 1,2 or 3 bedroom suites. Fully serviced with all modern conveniences, The Seri Suites is happy to offer Island Key readers a www.theislandkey.com

pick up and drop off service to and from the airport and Benoa harbour. (P:83, ref:D7)

l Hotel Tugu Bali (Jl Batu Bolong, T: 0361 731701, www. tuguhotels.com) is a living breathing museum of antiques and rare cultural artefacts from around the archipelago. Two suites contain replica studios of famous painters who discovered Bali in the 1930s (the Le Mayeur Suite has won numerous awards from international magazines and guides) whilst the collection of suites set deep in a sunken tropical garden are a treat for the senses. The private beach and romantic nature of Tugu is perfect for wedding ceremonies and receptions. Private Tugu villa also available for larger groups and events. (P:83, ref:A7, C3)

Villa Elanora (Pantai Berawa,www.villaelanora.com) is a private home, complete with a large bean-shaped swimming pool, vast manicured gardens, the latest hitech gadgetry with glorious sunsets from its terraces. Villa Elanora is suited to families and groups and caters perfectly to weddings and gatherings. activities Mostly visited for its surf, Canggu also boasts some appealing landbased activities and an Indonesian cooking class in a league of its own. 92

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The Canggu Club (Jl Pantai Berawa, T: 0361 844 6385) is Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first and only international private membersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; club. It offers sports, social and leisure facilities, including a state-of-the art gym, a 25-metre swimming pool and a tennis & squash centre. l Hotel Tugu Bali (Jl Batu Bolong, T: 0361 731 701, www. tuguhotels.com) offers the chance for budding chefs to learn the art of traditional Indonesian cuisine from master chef Iboe Soelastri. Starting with a trip to the local market in the morning the class runs through the day ending with a sumptuous dinner in the stunning waroeng. Dancing and Gamelan (traditional Balinese orchestral instruments) classes, bike and horse-drawn cart tours of the local area are also available at the hotel. (P:83, ref:A7) l SUP (Jl Benesari, Kuta, T: 0361 750 550) gives the chance to join the stand up paddling revolution sweeping the surfing world. Canggu and Berawa are perfect spots for lessons available from Surf Travel Online in Kuta (transport and all equipment provided). Umalas Stables (Jl Lestari, T: 0361 731 402) is an equestrianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s delight providing boutique accommodation within the grounds of the stables. Explore the beaches and rice fields with experienced local guides. www.theislandkey.com

Horsing around (Foued Kadachi)

Tanah Lot (Jason Wolcott)

www.theislandkey.com introduction Bali’s `Wild West’ incorporates the ruggedly beautiful coast from Canggu to Gilimanuk, the regencies of Tabanan and Jembrana, and 77,000 hectares of national parkland. Not so many visitors make it this far, but those who are bold enough to venture away from the humid and crowded southern plains, the late nights and the excesses of hedonistic Kuta and Seminyak will discover another world. From Canggu, the west coast road will take you past rice terraces reminiscent of amphitheatres and along the sweeping coastline and spectacular surf beaches of Soka, Balian and Medewi. Jembrana, or `Jimbarwana’ meaning the great forest, is Bali’s least populated regency and is characterised by the impenetrable highlands, wooded slopes, savannah, rainforest, and monsoon forest of The National Park. This is the only remaining natural habitat of the endangered jalak putih, the Bali Starling, and is also home to 200 species of plant, rusa deer, kancil, barking deer, long-tailed 94

the west

keyshortcuts Navigate your way west safely and quickly (see page 96 for getting there recommendations) Escape the crowds and explore some remote surfing spots (see page 96 for surf recommendations) Get back to basics in rustic West Bali style (see page 96 for accommodation recommendations) Check out the amazing Makepung bull races and explore Bali’s national park (see page 98 for activities)

1 Gilimanuk

BALI STRAIT 2

Palasari Pengembangan

Palasari Reservoir

Makepung (Bull Race)

Perancak Temple

negara

Perancak

Mt. Sangiang 978

3 Mt. Merbuk 1366

Rambut Siwi Temple

Rambut Siwi

Mt. Mesehe 1195

jembrana medewi

Medewi Beach

Mt. Patas 1402

Pekutatan

Mt. Lesung 1054 Mt. Salak 873 H Gajah Mina

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Balian Beach Soka Beach

Soka to the north coast

H Waka Gangga

Tanah Lot Temple Seseh Beach

tabanan

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Tamblingan Lake Mt. Batukaru Buyan 2276 Lake Botanical Garden Pancasari

Luhur Batukaru Temple

7 Penebel

macaques, civets, monkeys, wild boars, and the last of the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wild banteng from which the deer-like Balinese cattle are descended. Also within the boundaries of the reserve are 7,000 hectares of mangrove swamps, coastal flats, and coral reefs with several sanctuary islands for seabirds. getting there A car or minivan with driver is the best form of transport for getting to West Bali, especially if you plan to make stopovers and side-trips. Alternatively, public buses travel daily from Ubung terminal in Denpasar to Tabanan and Jembrana. Be forewarned that many of the vehicles are not air-conditioned, smoking is the norm, and onboard video entertainment is very loud. Fares vary depending on the level of comfort you require. Expect a slow and maybe hair-raising journey, as you will be sharing the winding main road with convoys of heavy trucks, plying the route to and from Java via the ferry port of Gilimanuk. At selected stops, the buses are boarded by would-be rock stars playing the guitar, as well as vendors selling anything from pink plastic sunglasses to canned drinks, fresh grapes, and stuffed tofu. The cheapest, slowest and least comfortable travel option is bemo from Ubung terminal. 96

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the surf Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plenty of potential on the west coast for surf exploration away from the more popular crowded southern breaks. Early mornings in the dry season are the best bet but be sure to leave before sunrise to beat the traffic and hire a private car rather than a motorcycle - the roads west are notorious for being extremely dangerous. Balian is fifteen minutes from Medewi and offers the righthand version of the Medewi lefts. All levels. Medewi is the longest point break in Bali, a lefthander offering rides of up 400 metres in length. The waves here are ideal for beginners and amateur surfers, and it is a good spot for more advanced surfers to practice tricks, without worrying about getting lacerated on sharp reefs. All levels. Pulukan Rivermouth presents a thrilling fast breaking righthander. Intermediates. accommodation Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nowhere near the variety of choice in the West of Bali as visitors can find in the more popular southern regions. Lots of surfers congregate around the Balian beach area and Medewi and there are plenty of home stays to suit their needs. Other accommodation options are waiting to be discovered. www.theislandkey.com

97 Gone Fishing (David Burden)

Gajah Mina Resort (Balian, T: 081 2381 1630, www. gajahminaresort.com) at Balian Beach is romantic and serene, with individual Balinese style villas, a superb restaurant and a swimming pool spread across a dazzling headland above a private beach. (P:95, ref:B6) Waka Gangga (Tanah Lot, T: 0361 416 257 / 757 3075, www. wakaganggaresort-bali.com) is a backto-nature resort set amidst cascading rice fields, between a sacred river and the crashing surf of the Indian Ocean, under the gaze of Mt Batukaru and only a few kilometres north of the dramatic sea temple of Tanah Lot. (P:95, ref:A6) Waka Shorea (T: 0362 946 66, www.wakashorearesort-bali. com) is located in the Buleleng Regency within the boundaries of the National Park, is an environmental sanctuary offering activities such as sea kayaking, sailing, diving, snorkelling and nature trekking.

activities Negara is where the famous bull races are staged during the dry season. Set against a backdrop of mountains, the contest features Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleekest, most handsome water buffaloes. Each race is comprised of two pairs of bulls running against each other at speeds of up to 60 kilometres per hour around an erratic two-kilometre track. The National Park offers exceptional walking and magnificent panoramas. Visitors must have a permit, and must be accompanied by a guide. Arrangements for one-day permits and guides can be made at the park headquarters in Cekik, the ranger station at Labuhan Lalang, and the Department of Forestry office in Denpasar. The excellent coral reefs surrounding Menjangan Island offer superb snorkelling and diving. This area teems with a spectacular marine life.

(i) keyphrases hello please thank you how are you how much where is what is that what time is it how far is goodbye 98

the west

: om swastiastu : tolong : terima kasih : apa kabar : berapa : dimana : apa itu : jam berapa : berapa lama : selamat jalan

talk it up good help watch out local cafĂŠ excuse me i am sick hot cold beach no problem

: bagus : tolong : awas : warung : permisi : saya sakit : panas : dingin : pantai : tidak apa-apa

www.theislandkey.com

99 Palmed Off (James Watling)

Temple smiles (Paul Brooks)

www.theislandkey.com introduction Bali is justifiably proud of Ubud, a remarkable inland town that has become the island’s centre for fine arts and cultural performances. Ever since the German painter, Walter Spies, settled here in the 1930’s, the town has been a haven for both local and European artists and writers, and is now a magnet for art collectors, connoisseurs, mystics, and people who are actively involved in art, anthropology, music, dance, architecture, environmentalism and alternative healing. It wasn’t until the 1970s and a visit from Queen Elizabeth II that the flow of visitors increased to the levels you can expect to find in Ubud today. It is no great surprise therefore, that it hosts the annual Ubud Writers & Readers Festival, presenting workshops, seminars, book launches, discussions, and lively literary lunches every autumn. It is the cultural entertainment that continues to attract so many visitors to this once quaint rural village. Expect to witness some incredible dance 100

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keyshortcuts Explore the unique boutiques of Ubud and take home a piece of Bali (see page 102 for shopping recommendations) Delve into the creative side of Bali at Ubud’s best galleries and museums (see page 106 for gallery and museum recommendations) Dine at some of the best restaurants Bali has to offer (see page 112 for dining recommendations) Take a break in Ubud’s finest resorts (see page 116 for accommodation recommendations)

atan

R Ryoshi

Casa Luna R Ibu Oka R Ary’s Warung R Ga

Di U

Terazo R

dew

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performances nightly, dine in some exquisite world-class restaurants or simply savour the cooler climate of this hillside retreat 300 metres above sea level and a world apart from the bustling beaches to the south of Bali. getting there It is easy to get around the town without the need of a car, but you will need transport if you want to visit the surrounding villages. There are very few taxis in Ubud; the only ones you will see are those that have brought passengers from other tourist areas and are hoping for a fare back. You can arrange private transport with your hotel or negotiate a fare with one of the many young Balinese men offering transport on the street but prepare to bargain hard. The average cost of a metered taxi from Kuta/Seminyak is in the region of IDR 120,000. You can hire a car and driver for the day in the region of IDR 500,000 or for a private return journey from Ubud to the south the cost falls to around IDR 100,000. culture The rich fabric of Balinese culture permeates every street corner and facet of everyday life in Ubud. Ubud Palace and Puri Saren Agung are at the very heart of Ubud with the compound being built after the 102

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1917 earthquake. Ubud is very much under the control of the local royal family who still reside there, but the palace and temple are accessible to visitors. North of Ubud Palace lies the Marajan Agung Temple with a stunning decorative entrance leading to the private temple area designated for the use of the royal family. Taman Saraswati Temple (also known as the Ubud Water Palace) is nearby and transforms into a centre of activity every evening for local dance performances. Ubud has long been the focal point for artisans from every walk of life. shopping & style There are quite literally thousands of jewellery manufacturers in Bali and most of them are based in the village of Celuk, which boasts three kilometres of main road bordered by a maze of backstreets full of silver workshops, galleries and outlets. The village of Mas is famous for woodcarving, and the road through it is solidly lined with craft shops where visitors can see the carvers live at work. The villages surrounding Ubud are home to the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most accomplished painters, dancers, musicians and practising artisans. The village of Batubulan is famous for its stone carvings, which are exhibited all along the main road. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also possible to commission pieces. www.theislandkey.com

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Asialine (Jl Hanoman 9, T: 0361 972 135, www.asialinebali. com) specialises in high quality handcrafted batik products, such as picture frames, and candles, lamps, aromatherapy supplies, dolls and just about anything else you might want to decorate your house with. (P:101, ref:C2)

Dekâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Studio (Jl Hanoman 44, T: 0361 973 361, www.tegun. com) uses old carved house panels, plow handles, ship planks and other hardwood in their recycled furniture. Choose from a selection of stylish tables, cupboards and the like for an environmentally friendly Bali souvenir. (P:101, ref:C6) Ganesha Bookshop (Jl Raya Ubud, T: 0361 970 320) stocks a comprehensive selection of books, both new and second-hand, including books about Indonesian language, literature, cuisine and culture. Gemala Silver Jewelry (Jl Raya Pengosekan, T: 0361 976 084, www.gemalabalisilver.com) has a unique collection of jewellery made from various precious metals and gems, in a variety of traditional and contemporary styles. l Horizon Glassworks (Jl Raya Kengetan, T: 0361 780 4014, www.horizonglassworks. com) is on the main road from Batubulan north to Sayan, just west of Ubud. Hot Glass artist Ron 104

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Seivertson creates unique hand blown and hand sculpted works 9 to 5, Monday to Saturday. Watch Ron and his personally trained team in action and visit the gallery. These collectable works can be safely packed to travel as luggage or shipped. Horizon regularly works on a commission and custom order basis for collectors and business buyers worldwide. (P:103, ref:A5) Indigo (Jl Monkey Forest, T: 0361 7810 631) has a range of batik and ikat textiles, handcrafted clothing, jewellery and more. All textiles are locally produced using natural, earth friendly methods and dyes and traditional techniques in order to support the work of local artisans. Kupu Kupu (Jl Raya Ubud) is the outlet shop for the KupuKupu Foundation, a non-profit NGO working to improve the lives of physically and mentally handicapped people in Bali by selling their artworks and handicrafts and by offering them employment. On sale are handicrafts, paintings, kites, coconut and bamboo crafts and much more. Namaste â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Spiritual Shop (Jl Hanoman 64, T: 0361 7969 178) stocks a selection of spiritual and new age materials, including books, music Cds, DVDs, crystals, candles, clothing, yoga equipment and much more. www.theislandkey.com

Organic Farmers’ Market (Jl Raya Pengosekan) springs up every Saturday from 9.30 until 2.00 outside Pizza Bagus to tempt you with home grown and home made produce such as fruit, tofu, preserves, incense and skin care products. Sari Api (Jl Suweta, T: 0361 977 917) gives you a chance to explore your own creativity with workshops working with clay, including hand building and wheel throwing techniques. Surrounding rice fields provide a burst of natural inspiration. Studio Perak (Jl Hanoman, T: 0361 7801 879, www.studioperak. com) offers half-day courses in silver jewellery making which are especially popular with kids over 8 years old. Be inspired by their own designs in their shops on Jl Dewi Sita and Jl Raya Ubud. Taal (Jl Dewi Sita, T: 0361 780 6087) is a concept store with an eclectic mix of stylish fashion and lifestyle products. Stop by for funky dresses in graphic prints and bold colours, and some of the most unique silver jewellery to be found in the area. (P:101, ref:B3) Tegun Folk Art Galeri (Jl Hanoman 44, T: 0361 973 361, www.tegun.com) is a shop and gallery rolled into one, with everything from primitive carvings to highly refined woodwork and handicrafts. Knowledgeable staff are 106

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on hand to help with wholesale and retail purchases. (P:101, ref:C6) Threads of Life (Jl Kajeng 24, T: 0361 972 187, www. threadsoflife.com) works directly with weavers across Indonesia who produce naturally-dyed, handmade ceremonial textiles at impeccably high standards. A member of the International Fair Trade Association, they ensure that workers receive a fair wage for their products. Ubud Market (Jl Raya Ubud) is worth visiting in the early morning for a taste of Ubud life. Expect to find an incredible variety of handicrafts at bargain prices but bargain hard to get the best price. (P:101, ref:B2) galleries & museums Ubud’s galleries and museums house some of the most diverse collections of work, both traditional and contemporary, in the whole of Bali and are well worth visiting - a perfect distraction on a rainy day in the hills. Antonio Blanco (Jl Raya Campuhan, T: 0361 975 502, www.blancomuseum.com) is set in the artist’s original studio, gardens and family temple, overlooking the Campuhan River. Possibly the most famous and successful artist to ever live in Bali, his flamboyant house contains an interesting collection of works from throughout his career. (P:103, ref:C4) www.theislandkey.com

Market forces (David Burden)

Café des Artistes (Jl Bisma 9x, T: 0361 972 706, www. cafedesartistesbali.com) presents a new exhibition every six weeks on the restaurant walls surrounding the dining area. Young local and expatriate artists showcase innovative art works, paintings and photographs which are all for sale. Gaya Art Space (Jl Raya Sayan, T: 0361 979 252, www.gayafusion. com) is a non-profit gallery with an emphasis on cultural programming. They support contemporary avantgarde works, and host cultural events such as the Tuesday Night Art Film showings, and Funday Sundays, designed to encourage children to take an interest in art. (P:103, ref:B3) Genta Fine Art Gallery (Jl Raya Lodtunduh, T: 0361 978 272, www.museumrudana.com) is unique in its tranquil and very traditional setting representing the peaceful and harmonious nature of the Balinese. Komaneka (Jl Monkey Forest, T: 0361 976 090 http:// gallery.komaneka.com/) presents predominantly contemporary works by young Balinese and Javanese artists. The ground floor is home to more traditional landscapes, Balinese portraits and religious motifs, while upstairs is reserved for more esoteric works. (P:101, ref:A4) Museum Rudana (Peliatan, T: 0361 975 779, www.museumrudana. com) has a fine collection of works by 108

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high-profile local artists and renowned expatriates such as Antonio Blanco - a long time Bali resident. The first and second floors have modern works while the third floor is home to Balinese fine arts, from classical styles to the Ubud and Batuan styles. Seniwati Gallery (Jl Sriwidari 2B, T: 0361 975 485, www. seniwatigallery.com) supports local female artists through a wide range of activities, and shows and sells works in a variety of styles and technique from Java, Kalimantan and overseas. There is a permanent collection of important works, but other pieces are on sale, including some created by the girls from Seniwati Sanggar Muda – the art school they run with help from sponsors who fund individual students. Tony Raka Art Gallery (Jl Raya Mas, T: 0361 781 6785, www.tonyrakaartgallery.com) is one of Ubud’s most beloved galleries exhibiting works from young and old Bali-based artists and is a pivotal establishment in the promotion of Indonesian art. wellbeing The soothing, healing nature of the Ubud hills lends itself perfectly to a spa treatment in majestic natural surrounds. There is a never ending selection of spas and wellbeing centres lining the streets, the sheer scope of which is almost exhausting! www.theislandkey.com

Two Legong Dancers by Nyoman Gunarsa (Museum Rudana)

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Bali Botanica Spa (Jl Raya Sanggingan, T: 0361 976 739, www.balibotanica.com) is a mid range spa located peacefully besides a tranquil river setting. A homely feel lends itself perfectly to the wide range of therapies on offer here. (P:103, ref:C2) Como Shambhala (T: 0361 978 888, www.cse.como.bz) offers a comprehensive range of treatments complementary to their holistic ethos. They have a number of specialist treatments, such as pre-natal massage and Ayurvedic treatments, and also a resident psychologist who offers private counselling sessions and emotional health lectures. Fresh (Jl Dewi Sita, T: 081 7472 0428) is an eco-friendly beauty salon with a range of nature-inspired treatments, including caramel waxing, organic facials and organic oil massages. They are also one of the few places to have a far infrared sauna -great for fast and safe toxin removal. (P:101, ref:B3) Kamandalu Spa (Jl Tegallalang, T: 0361 975 825, www.kamandaluresort.com) is set right at the edge of a mountain forest and offers visitors a good choice of traditional Indonesian therapies as well as reflexology, facial treatments and body scrubs. The signature `Kamandalu Duo Massage’ with two therapists is recommended. 110

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Kirana Spa (Kedewatan, T: 0361 976 333) is one of the best places to come for a luxurious spa treatment: beautiful architecture blends seamlessly with the stunning jungle surroundings; well-trained therapists deliver extraordinary treatments using high quality Shiseido products; and best of all, guests can stay and relax in the spa garden and pool after their treatment. For the most extravagant experience take your treatment in the Presidential Villa. (P:103, ref:B1) Mango Tree Spa by L’Occitane (Kupu Kupu Barong, Kedewatan, T: 0361 975 478) is unique in that it has two upmarket, gilded bamboo tree houses perched in and around the upper branches of several very old mango trees. The impeccable service, authentic French products, charming surroundings, and wellchosen treatments make this an enticing option. (P:103, ref:B1) Spa At Maya (KMaya Ubud Resort and Spa, Jl Gunung Sari, T: 0361 977 888, www.mayaubud. com) is reached by elevator, which takes you thirty metres down the cliff face to a cluster of thatched pavilions by the water’s edge. A range of pampering treatments is on offer to invigorate the senses and seduce the soul, but for the more activity focused guest, some packages include local cultural trips. (P:101, ref:B2) www.theislandkey.com

the bar & club scene Nightlife in Ubud is limited with most places closing around 11pm. Many people decide to make the trip down the hill to Kuta or Seminyak to carry on the fun but that’s not to say Ubud doesn’t have its own share of the bar and club scene. Art Kafe Bar (Jl Monkey Forest, T: 0361 970 910) delivers a cozy atmosphere in the heart of Monkey Forest with a hearty selection of cappuccinos, organic salads and fully loaded burritos. Live music is a spontaneous occurrence on some evenings with local maestros dropping by to entertain diners. High-speed wireless Internet is available free of charge. Mozaic The Lounge (Jl Sanggingan, T: 0361 975 768, www.mozaic-bali.com) a recent addition to Mozaic is The Lounge that completes the Mozaic experience by offering a pre-dinner lounging area or an evening of upscale live Jazz music and renowned signature cocktails. Featuring upscale Asian influenced canapés true to Mozaic, an array of small plates from the famed restaurant’s kitchen include samples of a number of delightful bites, as teasers are served tapas-style. The art of alcohol is on full display by an attentive staff. With a sip of one of the signature cocktails such as the `Mozaic Crush’ or `Spice Breeze’ you might just let your inner sinner out 112

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to play! A refreshing addition to the natural serenity of Ubud. (P:102, ref:C2) Ozigo (Jl Raya Sanggingan, T: 0361 980 358) this lively bar presents live music and DJs nightly. Ozigo is one of the only licensed places in Ubud that remains open after 10.30pm. (P:101, ref:C2) dining out There’s almost too much choice when it comes to dining on any budget in Ubud. Jalan Raya Ubud and Jalan Monkey forest are home to the highest concentration of restaurants but it’s worth checking out Jalan Sanggingan and also the Sayan area for some real dining treats. Ary’s Warung (Jl Raya Ubud, T: 0361 975 053) is constantly popular with its chic lounge style bar and dining area. A creative menu serving contemporary Asian tasting dishes and adjoining wine and cigar lounge make this a very popular lunch and dinner spot. (P:101, ref:B1) Bar Luna (Jl Gaotama, www. casalunabali.com) is the latest stylish addition to the Casa Luna group. Tucked away in a quiet backstreet, it is a peaceful place to stop for a coffee or meal. (P:101, ref:B2) Casa Luna (Raya Ubud, T: 0361 977 409, www.casalunabali. com) has a menu spanning traditional Balinese dishes and a selection of Mediterranean meals, all lovingly www.theislandkey.com

Ogoh Ogoh Ubud nightlife (David Burden) ubud 113

prepared and beautifully served. The relaxed atmosphere and beautiful interior make it a popular choice and live Brazilian jazz on Wednesdays proves to be a big draw. (P:101, ref:A1) Café Des Artistes (Bisma 9x, T: 0361 972 706, www. cafedesartistesbali.com) has an expansive menu featuring Belgian specials, grills and western cuisine and some Indonesian dishes too: the four-course set menu is great value and changes every month. Parties and outside catering are also available. Fly Café (Raya Lungsiakan, T: 0361 975 440)is well known for serving up huge portions of comfort food, including tasty ribs, burgers and pizzas, and a good range of drinks. Open all day, it’s a good place to escape the crowds of central Ubud - except on Friday nights when the weekly quiz pulls a crowd of expats. (P:103, ref:C1) Glow @ Como Shambhala (T: 0361 978 888, www.cse.como. bz) has a revamped menu courtesy of executive chef Chris Miller, and it’s full of healthy and nutritious dishes. Watch the team prepare your meal in the open kitchen of this contemporary restaurant. Ibu Oka (Jl Tegal Sari, T: 0361 976 343) has an international reputation for serving the best roast suckling pig in Bali, 114

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possibly the world. Authentic Balinese dining at its best! (P:101, ref:B1)

Indus (Jl raya Sanggingan, T: 0361 977 684, www.casalunabali. com) has been an Ubud favourite for years, thanks to the river views, tempting menu and eclectic gallery. They also have special jazz and feast evenings every full moon, and Latino music on Mondays and Fridays. Free shuttle service to Casa Luna and Honeymoon Guesthouses available. (P:103, ref:C2)

Lamak (Jl Monkey Forest, T: 0361 974 668, www.lamakbali. com) is a two-tiered eatery serving Asian cuisine with a Mediterranean twist. The relaxed dining environment makes this an ideal spot for a romantic dining experience. (P:101, ref:A4) Mojos Burritos (Jl Raya Ubud, T: 0361 920 9422, www. mojosflyingburritos.com) is the place to go for a Mexican hit - burritos, tacos, quesadillas and all the usual suspects are available, and there’s even a Naked Burrito, served in a bowl, for those watching the waistline. Delivery available. Mozaic (Jl Sanggingan, T: 0361 975 768, www.mozaicbali.com) is a fresh oasis of ingenuity in the world of gastronomy. It is the uniqueness of the experience that has become the hallmark of its reputation, encompassing the quality of the ingredients, the perfect execution, the www.theislandkey.com

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multitude of flavours and the quality of the service, all to be enjoyed in its lush tropical setting. Chef Chris Salans’ ever-changing menu at Mozaic consists of à la minute creations that constantly evolve and delight visiting gourmands. Experience fine dining at its best with perfectly matched wine pairings in the main restaurant area, or enjoy a unique culinary experience with friends and family in the exclusive dining room. (P:103, ref:C2)

Nacho Mama (Jl Sanggingan, T: 0361 977 547) is Naughty Nuri’s Mexican alternative just down the road from its famous counterpart. You can still get those famous Nuri’s ribs and martinis here but also a selection of tacos, enchiladas and quesadillas. Lots of comfortable seating makes Nacho Mama a firm family favourite. (P:103, ref:C2)

Naughty Nuri’s Warung (Jl Sanggingan, T: 0361 977 547, www.naughty-nuris.com) is an Ubud institution in its own right, primarily for two reasons - the awesome barbeque pork ribs and the fiercely potent martinis, the latter of which celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain proclaimed the best he’s encountered this side of Manhattan. Expect to encounter a heady mix of expatriate types, tourist visitors by the busload and all manner of Balibased eccentrics. Heaps of fun, and 116

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enormously popular all hours of the day and night. Table reservations recommended. (P:103, ref:C2) l River Café (Maya Ubud Resort and Spa, Jl Gunung Sari T: 0361 977 888, www.mayaubud. com) sits on the banks of the Petanu River, in a serene part of tropical rain forest. The casual ambience is complimented by the well-balanced healthy fusion and spa cuisine served - heavy on organic produce and light on calories, but decidedly rich in taste. (P:101, ref:D3) Siam Sally (Jl Hanoman, T: 0361 980 777) prepares home style Thai food in a venue that combines a Thai shop house interior with Balinese architecture. A variety of dining areas make it a good choice for any occasion. (P:101, ref:C7) accommodation There is an incredible variety of accommodation in and around Ubud that caters to every desire and budget. Visitors to Ubud will find that they don’t have to spend mega bucks to get a millionaire’s view of the incredible Ubud countryside. Amandari (Sayan, T: 0361 975 333, www.amandari.com). This hotel overlooking the spectacular Ayung River gorge is top class, in terms of both beauty and price. The large swimming pool is modelled on a Balinese rice terrace, the far edge www.theislandkey.com

appearing to drop off into space. This recently refurbished property is a must visit for a weekend of Ubud luxury. (P:103, ref:B2)

Gaya Villas (Jl Raya Sayan, T: 0361 979 252, www.gayafusion. com) started out as bungalows for the artists of the neighbouring art space, but now are a luxurious trio of villas on the edge of a jungle gorge. Shared living spaces and a large pool add to the homely atmosphere. (P:103, ref:B3) Honeymoon Guesthouse (Jl Bisma, T: 0361 977 409, www. casalunabali.com/honeymoon guesthouses)has a selection of rooms, each with its own character and special features: some have pool and mountain views, some have a private terrace, and others are interconnecting for families or groups. Breakfasts are delivered fresh from the onsite bakery and guests can order meals from sister restaurant Casa Luna. (P:101, ref:B3) l Maya Ubud Resort and Spa (Jl Gunung Sari T: 0361 977 888, www.mayaubud.com) is perched between river valley and rice terrace, creating a peaceful tranquility in which to escape. Luxurious facilities and personalised service define this landmark resort while the nearby artists’ village of Ubud provides a cultural injection that should not be missed. (P:101, ref:D3) Oka Wati’s Sunset Bungalows (Jl Monkey Forest, T: 0361 973 386, www.

okawatihotel.com) are to be found down a quiet lane set in the rice fields, with cosy rooms, and a small swimming pool. Ibu Oka is one of Ubud’s legends who also runs the famous Babi Guling warung near the palace. (P: 101, ref:B4) Uma Ubud (Jalan Raya Sanggingan T: 0361 972 448, www.theumaubud.com) on the fringe of culture capital Ubud and overlooking the Campuhan valley and River Oos, reflects the COMO philosophy of peaceful comfort alongside rich culture. The minimalist-style rooms provide a cool haven in countryside that is pure heaven. (P:103, ref:C1) The Ubud Village Resort & Spa (Jl Nyuh Kuning, Pengosekan, T: 0361 978 444, www.theubudvillage.com) is located on the verdant hillsides of Ubud and is a perfect Balinese hideaway for romantic couples, honeymooners and families alike. Surrounded by picturesque rice paddy terraces and set within luxuriant landscaped tropical gardens, Ubud Village Resort & Spa is a retreat style boutique resort designed for relaxation, invigoration and peaceful contemplation. There are plenty of in-house activities for those of a more adventurous nature including trekking, cycling and rafting as well as heritage tours and cultural pursuits. ubud

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activities Ubud is not short on activities for those with plenty of energy and a desire for adventure, or for those who simply want to delve into the heart of Balinese culture. Bali Birdwalks (Tjampuhan, T: 0361 975 009, www.balibirdwalk. com) invites bird-watchers and aspiring naturalists to join ornithologist Victor Mason on a ramble through the Ubud countryside. A great day out. (P:103, ref:C4)

Bali Botanical Gardens (Kutuh Kaja, T: 0361 970 951, www. botanicgardenbali.com) is a maze of beautiful pathways in the village of Kutuh Kaja. Meander through five hectares of natural ravines, featuring both endemic and imported plant species. Elephant Safari Park Taro (Bali Adventure Tours, T: 0361 721 480, www.baliadventuretours.com) is set in more than two hectares of eco-tourism landscaped botanical gardens and surrounded by forest at Taro, north of Ubud. The park is not only a sanctuary for the protected and endangered Sumatran species, but also a total elephant experience. l Horizon Glassworks (Jl Raya Kengetan, T: 0361 780 4014, www.horizonglassworks.com) invites visitors into the workshop to watch the exciting live action of `Off Hand’ Hot Glasswork. Witness everything from 118

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the metamorphic sculpting of human figures to the excitement of huge `Rondel’ plates spun out on iron pipes. Glass artist Ron Seivertson creates this difficult and daring work with his team of personally trained assistants. Watching the team at Horizon live is one of the island’s most fascinating modern attractions. 9 to 5 Monday to Saturday. (P:103, ref:A5) Mozaic The Workshop (Jl Sanggingan, T: 0361 975 768, www.mozaic-bali.com) is in a dazzling locale, designed for cooking and teaching and is equipped with cutting edge kitchen technology from Miele. The Workshop is a platform for the exchange of ideas and to learn more about Indonesian and Mozaic-style cooking. Guest chefs feature regularly and culinary themed classes revolve constantly so it’s best to check ahead with the restaurant for schedules. (P:103, ref:C2) Waka Di Ume (Jl Suweta, T: 0361 973 178, www.wakadiume. com) takes visitors on a culinary journey into the rice fields of Ubud to learn about local ingredients and the intricate art of Indonesian cooking. (P:101, ref:B1)

Waka Namya (Jl Raya Penestanan, T: 0361 975 719, www. wakanamya.com) runs daily activities to learn Balinese Gamelan, create traditional palm offerings and paint in a variety of Balinese styles. Children’s activities also provided. (P:103, ref:C4)

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Scene from a Bali birdwalk (James Watling)

(i) keyinfo

temple etiquette

Anyone visiting a temple must tie a sash around the waist. Many temples require exposed legs to be covered with a sarong, especially if a ceremony is taking place. Men may also be required to wear a head-cloth and sarong at important temple festivals. Visitors (especially women) with bare shoulders or exposed midriffs may be denied entrance, so be sure to dress appropriately. Unless there is a set admission fee, it is common to give a small contribution when visiting a temple; this is used to help towards maintenance. Women who are menstruating must not enter temples as the Balinese consider this unclean. Visitors should not remain standing when people are praying, so move to the back and wait quietly until the blessing is finished. If the Balinese kneel in veneration as a procession goes by, be polite and do the same or move out of the way. These events are sacred rituals, not for the benefit of tourist cameras and due respect should be given. ubud

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dance schedule Dances and performances are held nightly (with the exception of Sundays) with special events staged for every full and new moon. The Kecak Rina dance is held every full and new moon at the Arma Museum starting at 19:00. Every 1st and 15th of the month the Gambuh Dance is performed at Pura Desa Batuan also starting at 19:00. Entrance fees vary at each

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location but are generally between IDR 50,000 to IDR 100,000. Tickets for these performance can be obtained at the Ubud Tourist Information Bureau, Jalan Raya Ubud, T: 0361 973 285. A key tip for all performances being held at Pura Dalem (the Water Palace) is to reserve a table for dinner at the neighbouring Café Lotus, which affords diners an almost uninterrupted view of each evening’s dance performance next door.

day

dance

place

time

Monday

Legong Dance Kecak Dance

Ubud Palace Pura Dalem Ubud

19:30 19:30

Tuesday

Ramayana Dance Legong Dance Women’s Gamelan

Ubud Palace Ubud Palace Lotus Café

19:30 19:30 19:30

Wednesday

Legong & Barong Dance Topeng Jimat Dance

Ubud Palace Arma Museum

19:30 19:30

Thursday

Legong Trance & Paradise Dance Kecak (Monkey Chant Dance) Legong Dance The Barong & Keris Dance Barong & Child Dance

Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan Pura Desa Kutuh Pura Dalem Ubud Ubud Water Palace

19:30 19:30 19:30 19:30 19:30

Friday

Kecak & Fire Dance Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Barong & Keris Dance Women’s Gamelan

Pura Padang Kerta Pura Dalem Ubud Arma Museum Bale Banjar Klod

19:30 19:30 18:00 19:30

Saturday

Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Frog Dance Kecak & Fire Dance

Monkey Forest Bale Banjar Padang Tegal

20:00 19:30 19:00

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A royal dance performance (Foued Kadachi)

Batur lake view (David Burden)

www.theislandkey.com introduction One of the most immediately accessible cool mountain areas in Bali is worth a day trip to as a diversion but few visitors make it this far inland. The Eka Karya Botanical Gardens flanked by Lake Beratan, Lake Tamblingan, Lake Buyan and the surrounding natural forest is a point of interest but many visit the area to play 18 holes on the renowned Handara Golf Course, maybe spend one night then return to the sunnier southern climes of Bali. As with the rest of the island, development is in progress with a number of wellbeing retreats and resorts in planning for the surrounding areas. Bedugul is the organic heart of Bali with many fruit and vegetable plantations, markets and private farms lining the roads. The hillside town enjoys mild mountain weather due to its location at an altitude of about 1500 metres above sea level and can get very chilly at night. Heavy rain is a daily occurrence during the wet season months and can make the roads difficult to navigate. 122

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keyshortcuts Climb the hills north to this lesser visited part of Bali (see page 123 for getting there recommendations) Sample some of the best organic dining on the island (see page 123 for dining recommendations) Spend a very unique night in the hills (see page 124 for accommodation recommendations) Play 18 holes at Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous golf course or defy gravity in the treetops (see page 124 for activities)

Gitgit

C to singara

A Bali Handara Kosaido Country Club

Lake

Pancasari

Tamblingan

Ulun Danu Temple

Tamblingan Bedugul Market S

Bali Treetop A

Botanical Gardens

Mt. Batukaru

Beratan Lake

bedugul Baturiti

2276

Pacung Mountain Resort H

Rice Terrace

to denpasar

Lake

Jatiluwih

Luhur Batukaru Temple

2058

Buyan

1 Mt. Pe

Mt. Penggilingan

getting there To reach the mountain range, drive west from Denpasar through Mengwi. Most visitors hire a private car and driver for the journey that takes around two hours from the south of the island. The fixed price for a taxi is in the region of IDR 250,000 one way so it makes more sense to arrange private transport for around IDR 500,000 for the day. The landscape rises majestically on the ascent to Bedugul with floating tiers of rice fields and patches of onion, cabbage and papaya grown in the cool climate of the highlands. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t consider riding a motorbike to Bedugul as

Tirta Em Holy Spr

the precipitous climate makes twowheeled exploration especially hazardous. dining out For those of an adventurous culinary persuasion, Bedugul has a remarkable array of warung eateries and kaki limas (foodstalls) selling mountain fresh, ready to eat meals. The Lombok style Ayam Taliwang in Bedugal is a regional classic and worth seeking out. Ngiring Ngewedang (T: 0812 380 7010, www. ngiringngewedang.com) is an enchanting, family-run, hilltop restaurant and coffee house, out of town

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perched way up above the road with spectacular views of palm trees, deep valleys and jungle, stretching as far as the northwest coast and volcanoes of East Java. Robusta and Arabica coffee beans from the neighbouring coffee plantations are processed and sold here. Simple and delicious local cuisine includes reputedly the best-fried noodles and banana fritters on the island. accommodation Most visitors opt for a one or two night stay up in the hills as a break from the hotter climate of the southern shores of Bali. The golf course and organic farms are the main reasons people visit this part of the island. Bali Handara Kosaido Country Club (T: 0362 226 46, www.balihandarakosaido.com) offers hotel rooms and villas reminiscent of wooden mountain chalets, with open log fires and awe-inspiring panoramic views. The facilities also include a convention centre, restaurant, tennis courts, and a spa. (P:123, ref:C1)

Pacung Mountain Resort (Baturiti, T: 0368 21038) is blessed with a beautiful vista of the valley and Mt Batukaru. Accommodation comprises of rooms, or charming thatched cottages with balconies and rice field views. A gondola transports guests from their rooms 124

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to the pool and there is also a restaurant. (P:123, ref:C3) activities The recreation park on the southern shores of Lake Beratan offers parasailing, speedboat rental, jet skiing and water skiing. On the far side of the lake are three twentyfive metre caves, constructed by Indonesian slave labourers at the time of the Japanese occupation during World War II. For a close to nature experience, visitors can trek through the tropical, almost primeval, rainforest that borders Lakes Buyan and Tamblingan. Hidden temples lie in clearings within the trees, revered places where the Balinese pay homage to their gods. The area is abundant in bird life and popular with birdwatchers. Expect to spot babblers, woodpeckers, ground thrushes and malkohas. The pathways lead to a clearing beside Lake Tamblingan, next to Pura Tahun. From here, under the gaze of Mt Lesong, visitors are able to arrange for one of the local villagers to row them across the tranquil waters in a `pedau akitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, a traditional, and simple, double canoe. Close to Lake Tamblingan, set between orange groves, tobacco fields and hedges of pink bougainvillea, is the pretty village of Munduk. Here, a short track www.theislandkey.com

Bedugul viewpoint (David Burden)

lined with sweet smelling clove trees leads to a mighty waterfall. Bali Handara Kosaido Country Club (Bedugul, T: 0362 226 46, www.balihandarakosaido. com) lays claim to being the only golf course in the world that nestles inside the caldera of an ancient volcano. It is also gazetted among the world’s top fifty most beautiful courses, and is a `must-see’ even for non-golfers. The perfectly manicured fairways are complemented by colourful azalea, hibiscus and gladioli flowers and lined with shady mature trees, with a dramatic backdrop of towering mountains, primeval rainforest, and the peaceful Lake Buyan. The greens

will trick even the best golfer. Located at 1,142 metres above sea level, the refreshing temperature at this high altitude averages 16-20°C ten degrees below the coastal regions of Bali, and therefore the perfect climate for golfing. (P:123, ref:C1) Bali Treetop (Bedugul Botanical Gardens, Candikuning, T: 0361 852 0680, www. balitreetop.com) is a fun way to get close to nature whilst swinging and flying around the treetop canopies and features sixty-five challenges for all ages. Demonstration classes are given prior to every treetop adventure and all safety equipment is of the highest quality. (P:123, ref:B2) out of town

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kintamani At Kintamani, you can see another inland lake alongside one of Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most photographed and active volcanoes. Here, visitors gravitate towards an Indonesian buffet lunch in one of many restaurants, including Lakeview Hotel (T: 0366 513 94), offering panoramic views of Lake Batur and the 1717 metre Mt Batur, which has erupted more than twenty times during the last two centuries. The lakeside fishing village of Toya Bungkah is the main starting point for trekking up Mt Batur; visitors can arrange a guide at Hotel Puri Bening Hayato (T: 0366 512 34). Here, rooms and bungalows enjoy water drawn from the hot springs, fuelled by the volcano. Pura Puncak Penulisan is about five kilometres north of Kintamani in the village of Sukawana. It is the highest temple on Bali and one of the most ancient, being referred to in ninth century inscriptions dedicated to Sanghyang Grinatha, the manifestation of Siwa and the god of the mountains. There are 333 steps to the top of the temple so pack some comfortable hiking boots and some serious stamina. The Perama shuttle bus fare from Kuta/Ubud to Kintamani is IDR 150,000, minimum two people. 126

out of town

besakih Besakih is the biggest and oldest temple in Bali is thus held in great respect by the Balinese. Situated on the western slopes of Mt Agung the temple complex can be visited between 8am and 5pm daily (entrance is IDR 10,000). To enter the sacred site visitors must wear a sarong and sash (which can either be rented or purchased from the vendors) but may not enter inside the inner sanctum of Besakih temple as this is reserved for some of the holiest ceremonies conducted on the island. There are twenty temples inside Besakih that all have timetabled ceremonies; however, the most important annual ceremony is the Bhatar Turun Kabeh (The Gods Descend Together) that takes place in March/April every year and lasts a full month. Guides and vendors can be intrusive so be prepared for some degree of hassle factor when visiting Besakih and employ diplomatic negotiating skills. Organised tours are the best way to approach a visit to Besakih with almost all information centres in the more popular tourist areas of the island offering daily excursions. Tour operators will deal with all formalities and ensure the experience is pleasurable. www.theislandkey.com

Besakih (David Burden) out Temple of town

127

The road north of Matahari Beach Resort (courtesy image)

www.theislandkey.com introduction North Bali lies in the rain shadow of the central range of volcanic mountains, isolating it from the south and making it drier and less humid. Swimming is safer here and the snorkelling and diving locations rate among some of the best in Bali. This district is famous for its artistic heritage and dance tradition. The style of the gold and silver work, together with the weaving, pottery and instrument making are all very distinctive and unique to the area. For hundreds of years this was the part of the island that was most open to foreign influence as Chinese and Muslim traders brought their products, religion and culture through the port of Singaraja. The best known destination on the north coast is Lovina, which is actually a long string of coastal villages to the west of Singaraja. It is a popular tourist destination, especially with backpackers, and is famous for its early morning dolphin-watching trips. The incredible variety of the countryside, magnificent sunsets, local traditions and artistic culture, together 128

north coast

keyshortcuts Hit the road north to this lesser visited part of Bali (see page 130 for getting there recommendations) Escape the crowds to the quiet northern beaches (see page 130 for beach life recommendations) Dive The National Park (see page 132 for diving recommendations) Seek out some hidden dining treasures in the north (see page 134 for dining recommendations)

Munduk

Lumbung Bali H Cottages

Bunut Bolong

Lovina Beach

Pupuan

Kubutambahan

SINGARAJA

Airsanih

Ulun Danu Temple Beratan Lake Bedugul

Gitgit Waterfall

A Perama buleleng Lovina

Blahmantung Waterfall

Luhur Batukaru Temple

Baturiti Rice Terrace Jatiluwih

Mt. Batukaru 2276

Buddhist Monastery Hot Springs Buyan Mt. Penggilingan Lake 2058 Pancasari Tamblingan Tamblingan Lake Botanical Garden

Sunari Villas & Spa Resort H Zen Lifestyle Energy Resort H Aditya Hotel Seririt H W Singsing R H Damai Banjar Waterfall

BALI SEA

Celukan Bawang

Mt. Patas 1402

Bali Panorama Viewpoint R

Matahari Beach Resort

H Pemuteran

Reef Seen Dive

Pengametan Bay

Bali Puri Diving Academy Ganesha (Taman Sari Resort) Mt. Merbuk 1366 Mt. Mesehe 1195

Rambut Siwi

jembrana negara

Ponjok Batu Temple

Yeh Mempeh

Besakih Temple

Mt. Ngandang 1407 Mt. Penulisan 1748 Batur Mt. Batur Tianyar Temple 1717 Toya Bungkah Kintamani Traditional Village Batur Lake Trunyan Mountain View Penelokan Mt. Abang 2172 Mt. Agung 3142

BANGLI

Palasari Resevoir

Makepung (Bull Race)

engembangan

4 4

5 5

3 3

2 2

1 1

D C B A

with the slower pace of life, make this historical area diverse, interesting and delightful; a real contrast to the other parts of the island and well worth a visit. getting there Shuttle services operate daily between Kuta, Ubud, Sanur and Lovina and Candidasa. Although they cost a bit more than buses or bemo, they are faster and more comfortable. The price for the Perama shuttle service from Kuta or the airport to Lovina is IDR 125,000. Tickets are available from most hotels and tourist agencies, or you can go direct to Perama (Jl Legian No. 39, Kuta, T: 0361 751 551, 751 875, www.peramatour. com). It takes around three hours to cut across Bali from the south to the north coast through some of the most spellbinding scenery the island has to offer. The trip north presents visitors with the perfect opportunity to break their journey in the `real’ Bali. Munduk is around two hours north, an hour after Bedugul and is a charming village famous for its strong traditional Balinese feel, culture and absence of tourism. This is a real secret waiting to be discovered by the outside world. The waterfalls are an attraction in their own right but it’s well recommended to spend 130

north coast

the night at Lumbung Bali Cottages (Munduk, T: 0362 92 818, www. lumbungbali.com) located amongst the fruit trees, clove plantations and stunning vistas overlooking the valleys to Lovina Beach. Just outside Munduk in the village of Mayong is the Bali Panaroma Viewpoint Restaurant (T: 0813 3863 0449) where the owner conducts free spiritual consultations as guests indulge in two types of the most revered sweets in all of Bali. The `Dodol’ is made from palm sugar, black rice, chocolate and peanuts whilst the `Dadar’ sweet is a form of thin crepe with a generous helping of coconut and palm sugar. beach life Lovina Bay presents a pretty black volcanic sand beach fringed by coconut palms against a backdrop of verdant hills. The narrow beach strip incorporates the villages of Pemaron, Tukadmungga. Anturan, Kalibukbuk, Kaliasem and Temukus; it starts about six kilometres west of Singaraja and extends to about five kilometres past Kaliasem. The bay with its docile sea is great for swimming and the reef offers good snorkelling. The beach hawkers can be rather annoying and unfortunately there’s no evading their persistent sales pitches. www.theislandkey.com

Seriritnorth hot springs (David Burden) coast 131

diving Pemuteran offers superb diving, with over a dozen reef sites, including some great drop-offs only one kilometre from the shore, dominated by soft corals, sponges and sea fans, with numerous fish including silver fusiliers, blue dancers, damsel fish, and occasional manta rays. Sites include Pertemuan Dekat or `Close Encounters’, where mantas, eagle rays, whale sharks, reef sharks, schools of tuna, jacks, fusiliers and snappers can be sighted. Napoleon Reef displays good corals and large numbers of reef fish. Pura Tembok or `Temple Wall’ is a favourite for night dives; the steep wall is covered with large fans, sponges, and soft corals, and is also the habitat of the rare Flaming scallop. Tangkad Dalam or `Deep Reef’ has an amazing assortment of corals and invertebrates, including table corals, giant leather corals, sponges, and nudibranchs galore. Bali Diving Academy (Pemuteran, Taman Sari Resort, T: 0361 270 252, www.scubali. com) is the gateway to the vertical walls of Menjangan Island National Park and Pemuteran sites. They have the full outfit for visiting divers including use of accommodation, PADI dive courses and a boat for fun dives. Other Bali Diving Academy centres can also be found in Sanur, 132

north coast

Nusa Lembongan, Padang Bai, Tulamben and Gili Trawangan. (P:129, ref:B1)

Reef Seen Aquatics Dive Centre (Pemuteran, T: 0362 923 39, www.reefseenbali.com) is the home of the `Reef Seen Turtle Hatchery’, `Reef Seen Dancers’ and the `Reef Gardeners of Pemuteran’. Chris Brown, founder of Reef Seen works with the local community in an effort to enhance their lives through eco-friendly practices and education. (P:129, ref:B1)

wellbeing Although there are less spa options on the north coast compared to the south, the peacefulness of the area lures those in search of yoga, meditation and spa retreats. Parwathi Spa (Pemuteran, Matahari Beach Resort, T: 0362 92 312, www.matahari-beach-resort. com) offers exclusively designed Sthira and Sukha massages and treatments, as well as deluxe packages and sun repair treatments. (P:129, ref:B2) Zen Lifestyle Energy Resort (Seririt, T: 0362 93 578) is a simple, enchanting spa retreat with unpretentious Balinese architecture offering all-inclusive packages consisting of transportation from the airport, accommodation, wellprepared meals and spa treatments. (P:129, ref:B3)

www.theislandkey.com

Gitgit falls (David Burden)

dining out The north has some superb restaurants that utilise the organic produce of Bali, together with an abundance of fresh fish. Dewi Ramona Restaurant (Pemuteran, Matahari Beach Resort, T: 0362 92 312, www.matahari-beachresort.com) serves European and Indonesian specialties accompanied by fine international wines. (P:129, ref:B2)

Puri Ganesha (Pemuteran, T: 0362 94 766, www. puriganeshabali.com) displays a specials board with an ever-changing menu and an alternative `living foodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; menu. The cuisine is healthy as vegetables are grown in the garden and aromatic curries are enhanced with local spices. (P:129, ref:B1) The Restaurant (Lovina, Damai Villas, T: 0362 41 008, www.damai.com) is nestled upon the side of a mountain with a boundless view extending to the ocean. The fivecourse set dinner menu changes every day. (P:129, ref:B4) accommodation Accommodation ranges from backpacker homestays to exclusive boutique villa-style hotel luxury. Travelling visitors wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find any huge, internationally branded resorts in this area but can expect a very 134

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hospitable and warm reception from the locals. Damai (Lovina, T: 0362 41 008, www.damai.com) is a Danish-owned gourmet retreat with self-contained bungalows complete with bubbling jacuzzis in outdoor bathrooms. (P:129, ref:B4) Matahari Beach Resort (Pemuteran, T: 0362 92 312, www. matahari-beach-resort.com) offers four categories of accommodation, comprised of a collection of two-room bungalows with balconies, outdoor showers, and four-poster beds. Some have garden views and others have ocean views. (P:129, ref:B2) Puri Ganesha Villas (Pemuteran, T: 0362 94 766, www. puriganeshabali.com) presents four enchanting, thatched, beachside villas, each with two bedrooms, an open-plan living area, a garden bathroom, indoor and outdoor dining areas, kitchen, private saltwater swimming pool, and personal butler service. (P:129, ref:B1) Sunari Villas & Spa Resort (Lovina, T: 0362 417 75, www. sunari.com) has a variety of bungalows leisurely spread throughout a lush garden. Some boast private plunge pools, others have jacuzzis, although the `standardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; accommodation is much cheaper. (P:129, ref:B4) Taman Sari Bali (Pemuteran, T: 0362 93 264, www.balitamansari. com) has on-site diving facilities, and www.theislandkey.com

offers a choice of rooms and suites ranging from simple to luxurious surrounded by gardens and ponds. (P:129, ref:B1)

activities Despite the remoteness of the area, there is still plenty to do. Visitors can go horse riding at Pemuteran or view dolphins off the coast of Lovina. Every morning at sunrise, the dolphins gather and play in large pods just beyond the coral reefs. For a nominal fee you can go out with the fishermen in a tiny, traditional `jukungâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fishing

(i) keyinfo Babi Guling A slow-cooked spit roasted pig stuffed with aromatic leaves, onion and garlic and brushed with crushed turmeric. Bebek Betutu Duck stuffed with spices, wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in a coconut-husk-fuelled earth-oven. Mie Goreng Fried noodles with vegetables or meat. Nasi Campur An everyday meal comprised of rice and a selection of vegetables, meat or fish.

boat. Occasionally no dolphins are sighted, but about eighty percent of the time dolphin-watchers are treated to the breathtaking spectacle of these graceful mammals vaulting out of the water in a remarkable aerial display. There are some fabulously carved temples to the east of Singaraja, while to the west of Lovina, the small town of Banjar is home to the only Buddhist monastery on Bali. The monastery, a blend of Balinese and mainland Southeast Asian architecture, offers a stunning panorama down to the sea. Banjar also offers hot springs, popular with both locals and tourists. local cuisine Nasi Goreng Fried rice containing vegetables, meat or fish. Pepes Ikan A dish of fragrant spiced fish, steamed in banana leaf packages and baked on a fire of coconut husks. Sate Small kebabs of fish, chicken or pork, barbequed on hot coals and served on a bamboo stick with peanut sauce. Sate Lilit Satay of spiced, minced meat or fish with an infusion of coconut, pressed onto a lemongrass skewer. north coast

135

Gunung Agung from Amed (David Burden)

www.theislandkey.com introduction Both Tulamben and Amed are to be found on the arid far northeastern shoreline of Bali in the Karangasem region. Tulamben is home to the stunning USAT Liberty wreck dive that is famously accessible from the pebbled beach whilst Amed is the collective name given to a string of villages stretching along Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s east coast. The dramatic coastline winds around steep headlands and sheltered coves strewn with traditional jukung fishing boats. Resting in the shadow of the mighty volcano, Gunung Agung, this laid-back stretch of coastline boasts some of the best coral reefs and dive sites on the island, all of which are habitat to numerous underwater species. Meanwhile, black tip reef sharks, dolphins and whales bask in the nearby waters. If diving and snorkelling isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t of interest, Amed and Tulamben are both great start-points for trekking up the slopes of Gunung Seraya to some of the rarely visited villages. Alternatively, visitors can opt to just chill out and relax as there are very few distractions in this 136

amed & tulamben

keyshortcuts Head to a truly unexplored region of Bali (see page 138 for getting there recommendations) Dive some of the best reefs on the island (see page 138 for diving recommendations) Indulge one of Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best views in some of the most affordable resorts (see page 141 for accommodation recommendations) Master the art of traditional eastern Balinese cuisine (see page 142 for activities)

Desa Dukuh s to

ara

ing

tulamben

Puri Mada H Tulamben Wreck Divers A Bali Diving Academy A Paradise Beach H

Datah to denpasar

Puri Aris H

Buayang Culik Laba Sari

H Mimpi

H Tulamben Bali

WW II Liberty Wreck The Wall

H Agung Beach Cottages H Saya

Purwa Kerthi

amed Uyah Amed H R Three Brothers Amed H Geria Giri Santi

H Bamboo Bali H Diver Cafe Bungalow

Bunutan House Reef

Eco Dive A Alang alang R

H Kusumajaya Indah Bungalow H Santai H Apa Kabar Village

H Dah Arta

Gecle R

H Udayana

H Anda Amed H Hidden Paradise H Coral View Village B Wawa Wewe Gede R Gili Selang H Bayu Cottages H Viena Beach

7 A

underdeveloped corner of Bali. There is a great choice of accommodation in the area and numerous rustic beach cafĂŠs serving fresh fish galore and the locals are amongst the most genuine and friendly people one could wish to meet. getting there Now that the Sanur to Gianyar toll road is in operation the travel time from the south has been reduced from five hours to only three. A metered taxi from the airport will cost in the region of IDR 450,000 so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s better to hire a private driver and car for the trip. The best way to see this very special part of Bali is by motorbike as the winding roads north of Gianyar are a dream to navigate on two wheels. beach life The beaches and small coves in this area are characterised by dark sand, gravel and pebbles, but they are safe for swimming and perfect for snorkelling. There is a small Japanese shipwreck at Banyuning, not to be confused with the famous dive site wreck at nearby Tulamben. diving Tulamben and Amed have dive sites perfectly suited to those who have never dived before and now 138

amed & tulamben

have the opportunity in Bali, all the way through to the most enthusiastic macro photographer. Amed Wall is a famed wall dive spot in the area; expect to see giant sponges, soft coral and schools of Red tooth trigger-fish and Sergeant Majors. Alternatively snorkellers can explore the coral gardens from topside. Gili Selang is an adrenalin junkieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dive spot with pristine reefs and the chance to see pelagics such as Manta rays, dolphins and Moray eels. The strong currents form a whirlpool that eventually spits divers back to the safety stop area. Perhaps the most famous (and therefore popular) site is the USAT Liberty shipwreck in Tulamben. Suitable for all levels this site is unique as it is one of the only wrecks in the world that is to be found in shallow waters. Torpedoed in World War II, the US cargo ship was beached until the eruption of Mount Agung in 1963 whereupon the boat was washed to its eventual resting ground. The dive commences with a unique shore entry with the looming bow of the ship at five metres. Proficient and experienced divers can then explore to thirty metres around the massive propellers and back to a safety stop at the bow where schooling Bigeye trevally cocoon ascending parties. Seraya Slope is five minutes from Tulamben and is a relatively recent discovery. www.theislandkey.com

Statuesque Tirta Gangga (David Burden)

The spot is a proper muck dive and is a macro photographerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dream. Yellow sea horses, Pygmy sea horses and Mimic octopi are amongst the unique species to be spotted here. There are numerous dive centres lining the coast of Tulamben and Amed, most offering PADI certified courses and a full selection of fun and specialist dives. l AquaMarine Diving (Seminyak, T: 0361 730 107/738 020, www. aquamarinediving.com) are based in the south of Bali and offer trips to all destinations in the north east including all transportation, equipment and highly organised `door to ocean floorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; services. (P:49, ref:C1) l Bali Diving Academy (Tulamben/Jl Danau Tamblingan, Sanur head office, T: 0361 270 252, www.scubali.com) are located a few kilometres south of Tulamben in the shadow of Mount Agung with reefs such as Seraya Secrets and Noisy Reef literally on the doorstep. Other Bali Diving Academy centres can also be found in Sanur, Nusa Lembongan, Pemuteran and Gili Trawangan. (P:137, ref:D3) Eco Dive (Jemeluk Beach, Amed, T: 0363 234 82, www. ecodivebali.com) are perfectly situated for easy access to all of the dive sites in the Amed region. The knowledgeable and friendly guides will lead you to the best spots depending on conditions. Basic 140

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accommodation onsite and a very chilled atmosphere in the dive centre make this a popular meeting place for visiting divers. (P:137, ref:B5) l Geko Dive (Padang Bai, T: 0363 415 16, www.gekodive.com) is based in Padang Bai but make the short drive round the north eastern headland to Tulamben and Amed giving divers staying in Padang Bai more dive site options. (P:145, ref:D2) Tulamben Wreck Divers (T: 0363 234 00, www. tulambenwreckdivers.com) is located literally on the beach opposite the USAT Liberty wreck and offers full dive centre facilities. The centre features a large swimming pool for general use and training plus mid to luxury beachfront villas. Very popular with photographers, TWD has an immense amount of experience that benefits all levels of visiting divers. (P:137, ref:D3)

the bar & club scene Nightlife in Amed is limited but lively. What the area lacks in variety it more than makes up for in spirit, the local variety being Arak (a potent distilled rice wine) that is particularly popular with the fisherman of the Amed villages. Most liquid entertainment seems to be centered around the dive schools with only one bar consistently pulling in a nightly crowd. www.theislandkey.com

Wawa Wewe I (Lipah, T: 0363 235 22) continues to be extremely popular as punters can enjoy live music twice a week and an `anything goes’ atmosphere prevails. Here, the dance floor quickly fills up with local young men and visiting tourists, and the food is good too. (P:137, ref:A6) dining out The local `Satay Lilit’ (barbequed minced fish sate sticks) is the best in Bali and can be bought roadside on the way to Tulamben and into Amed. The fresh seafood is also the best this side of Jimbaran Bay. Restaurant Gede (Lipah Beach, T: 0363 235 17) boasts a menu dominated by fresh seafood, with a blackboard highlighting the catch of the day. On the hill overlooking Lipah Beach surrounded by flowers, this rustic café-style restaurant is a firm favourite with return visitors. (P:137, ref:A7) accommodation Don’t head to Tulamben and Amed expecting five star resorts - they haven’t arrived yet! The Amankila and Alila resorts in Manggis mark the point where luxury tourist influences cease to exist and a more adventurous path begins. Mid range accommodation with many smaller

guesthouse operations catering to visiting divers. Anda Amed (Bunutan Bay, T: 0363 234 98, www. andaamedresort.com) are a clutch of cool villas lining the side of the hill overlooking the ocean. Honeymoon and spa packages are popular and the restaurant towards the front of the complex serves a good mix of Indonesian and European dishes throughout the day and night. (P:137, ref:A6)

Good Karma (Selang, T: 0812 3689 090) presents simple beachside bungalows, shaded by banyan trees and owned by a colourful character called Baba who sings to his guests and promotes ecological awareness. There is a good restaurant here and a backpacker atmosphere. Life in Amed (Lean Village, T: 0813 385 0155, www.lifebali. com) is an English owned and operated resort on the beach in the small fishing village of Lean, with cottages, landscaped gardens, a swimming pool, and a restaurant. Mimpi Bungalows (Tulamben, T: 0363 219 39, www.mimpi.com) are perfectly positioned to walk along the beach and snorkel the USAT Liberty wreck. For land lovers there are spa facilities and a restaurant amidst the tropical bungalows and rooms. (P:137, ref:C3) Santai Hotel (Bunutan, T: 0363 23 487, www.santaibali. amed & tulamben

141

com) has six individual Indonesian style bungalows and four rooms, with either garden or ocean views. The beach location is ideal for exploring the famous marine life, while beautiful surroundings, boutique facilities and helpful staff make this a place to truly relax. (P:137, ref:B6) Seraya Shores (Amlapura, T: 0813 3874 9108, www. serayashores.com) occupies a gorgeous setting right on the coast just past Amed and is a mid range mix of loft rooms, beach bungalows and seaview cottages. The dining is organic eastern Balinese cuisine. activities The village of Desa Bangle, situated five kilometres inland on the slopes of Gunung Seraya, is the startpoint of a trek to Toye Masem - five sacred springs. They are all within close proximity of one another, yet each spouts a different taste. You will need a guide (contact Ketut Bagus on 0852 3814 1433) for this gentle hike, which leads along a narrow track past simple houses known as ‘gubuk’, with woven walls and grass roofs. Here, the villagers eke out a living from the dry farmland and the neighbouring sea, maintaining an ancient lifestyle that hasn’t changed with the onslaught of technology or Western influence. 142

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Trekking visitors will be able to observe groves of giant bamboo bordering fields of cassava, sweetcorn, soybeans, bananas, peanuts and red-hot chilli peppers. After about one kilometre walkers will reach the first holy spring. A bit further along the track there’s a reserve of thick grey clay, which serves as a nourishing facial and skin masque. A shrine guards each spring, and each spring yields water of varying degrees of sweet, sour and bitter tastes. Even though the travel time to the south of Bali is only three hours, it is worth breaking the journey on the to experience one of the island’s best cooking schools set in the rural lowlands of Manggis, around an hour from the north east coastline. Alila (Manggis, T: 0363 410 11, www.alilahotels.com) host an organic cooking class not to be missed if you are interested in the fundamental techniques, ingredients and flvours of traditional East Balinese cuisine. Chef Penny Williams leads groups by bicycle to the quiet foothills of Manggis to a private allotment of organic herbs and spices where guests can learn the art of eastern Balinese cuisine amongst the glorious paddy fields and natural backdrop of the rolling hills. Lunch is provided in the private bales right in the midst of the ricefields before returning back to the resort. www.theislandkey.com

Porcelain crab (courtesy of Geko Dive)

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transport tips

If you rent a self-drive car, bear in mind that if you collide with anything, you are responsible for all costs. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s safer to hire a driver while you relax and enjoy the sights. Drivers must have a valid Indonesian or international driving licence. It is also advisable to pay the extra costs to ensure that you have full insurance coverage. Motorcycles are a convenient and inexpensive way to get around the island, but there are risks due to heavy traffic and poor roads. Helmets are required by law. You will need an international driving permit valid for motorcycles, or else you will need to go to the Denpasar Police Station to obtain a temporary permit, valid for three months in Bali only. When you are riding a motorbike or driving a car, it is not uncommon to be flagged down by the police at a spot checkpoint. You will be asked to show your driving licence and vehicle registration papers. If you do not have these documents with you, you will be expected to pay a `fineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, actually a negotiable settlement! amed & tulamben

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`Bai baiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Foued Kadachi)

www.theislandkey.com

padang bai candidas

introduction The islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s magnificent eastern regency of Karangasem is an exotic royal Balinese kingdom of forests and mighty mountains, emerald rice terraces, ancient temples, mystical water palaces and gorgeous beaches. Named after an old temple on a nearby hillside, Candidasa is a quiet seaside destination and a great base from which to visit the many attractions. Notable features include the sacred lotus lagoon just beside the beach, and a number of offshore islets and coral reefs, which make for ideal diving and snorkelling. There is also a good choice of restaurants and accommodation. The best beach is Pasir Putih, a crescent of white sand bordered by coconut groves and cliffs, five kilometres east of Candidasa. The tranquil ambience of this beach, with its simple grass roofed warungs and fishing boats is reminiscent of Bali as it was thirty years ago. Padang Bai is a major harbour for ferries to Lombok as well as for smaller boats to Nusa Penida. It is a very picturesque village, with semi144

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keyshortcuts Snorkel and dive the eastern waters (see page 148 for diving recommendations) Reserve a table with an ocean view in the finest restaurants and cafĂŠs (see page 150 for dining recommendations) Find a bed for the night to suit all budgets (see page 151 for accommodation recommendations) Discover the origin of Bali in the Aga villages (see page 152 for activities)

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circular hills surrounding a sparkling blue bay with a white sand beach fringed by small restaurants. It is also home to a famous temple - Pura Silayukti, where the Buddhist sage Mpu Kuturan is said to have lived in the 11th century. This area lies in the rain shadow of Bali’s most sacred and revered landmark, Mt Agung which, at just over 3000 metres high, is Bali’s tallest volcano. getting there Shuttle services operate daily between Kuta, Ubud, Sanur, Lovina and Candidasa. The price for the Perama (Jl Legian 39, Kuta, T: 0361 751 551/751 875 www. peramatour.com) shuttle service from Kuta or the airport to Padang Bai or Candidasa is IDR 60,000. Chartering a car or minivan with driver can be done by the half-day or full day, and rates are cheaper if negotiated on the street. Prices vary according to the kind of vehicle, its condition, actual travel time, and total number of hours. Daily rates are generally around IDR 500,000. Half a day costs around IDR 300,000. Alternatively you can rent a car and pay about IDR 180,000 extra per day for the services of an Englishspeaking driver. Padang Bai is the gateway to northeastern Bali with boats docking from Lombok, the Gili Islands and Nusa Penida. 146

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beach life The large majority of the eastern shorelines of Bali are home to some of the most dramatic volcanic black sand beaches on the island but there are some white sand gems in the area worth seeking out. For an Indonesian seaport, Padang Bai is remarkably undamaged but the noisy roads into town and bustling street life will lead visitors to seek out a quieter beach location in the bay. Blue Lagoon is a short trip over the eastern headland to a pristine sandy cove with basic warungs on the beach. Construction is underway and it’s only a matter of time before the beach becomes `private’ and off limits to daytrippers. Pantai Kecil to the west is also suffering the same five star treatment but is accessible with sun loungers and massages available from the local kiosks. the surf Swell still reaches the far eastern point of Bali with a short right hand point inside Padang Bai that breaks only during massive southerly swells in the dry season - but offers hardly any crowd problems at all. Amlapura has some hidden surf treasure of its own as does the exposed bay around the corner to the north in front of The Water Palace. Go seek out the rewards for yourself. www.theislandkey.com

Cove cruisinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (courtesy image)

diving Geographically Padang Bai and Candidasa share almost the same space on the map but the diving topography is vastly different. Candidasa has a wealth of muck dive sites, perfect for macro photography, and also features gentle slopes and walls suitable for all levels, offering many types of corals and resident marine life. Padang Bai has its fair share of accessible dive sites for all levels but leans towards divers who have some degree of prior experience. Blue Lagoon to the far right of Padang Bai has a fantastic diversity of marine life including Rhinopias, cuttlefish, Wobbegong sharks and a huge garden of Staghorn coral. Mimpang comprises three rocky pinnacles that break the surface and at the southern end leads to Shark Point. This dive offers a spectacular wall with colourful corals, many types of marine life and the opportunity to see pelagics. Tepekong is suited to experienced divers and is a long three-hundred metre rock with steep walls, cold water and strong currents. Expect to find huge schools of sweetlips and the occasional Mola Mola. Biaha to the north offers some of Bali’s most stunning diving with great visibility. There’s an abundance of sharks and pelagic visitors against 148

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a backdrop of black walls and bright corals. There are a number of dive centres in Padang Bai that service the immediate area, as well as Nusa Lembongan, Ceningan and Penida. l Absolute Scuba Bali (Padang Bai, T: 0363 420 88, www.balidive.com) Absolute Scuba Bali is an SSI Platinum Instructor Training Centre based in Padang Bai and is owned and operated by a team with more than 14 years experience of dive operations in and around Bali and all of Indonesia. (P:145, ref:D2) l AquaMarine Diving (Seminyak, T: 0361 730 107/738 020, www. aquamarinediving.com) are based in the south of Bali and offer trips to all destinations in the north east including all transportation, equipment and highly organised `door to ocean floor’ services. (P:49, ref:C1) l Bali Diving Academy (Jl Danau Tamblingan, Sanur head office, T: 0361 270 252, www. scubali.com) provide day trips to all the dive sites in the Candidasa and Padang Bai areas linking their other Bali Diving Academy centres in Sanur, Nusa Lembongan, Pemuteran and Gili Trawangan. (P:155, ref:D4) Crystal Divers (Sanur, T: 0361 286 737, www.crystal-divers.com) are a five star PADI instructor development centre who also provide day trips to the north of Bali including all hotel transfers, dive guides and equipment. (P:155, ref:C5)

www.theislandkey.com

149 Soft coral diving (James White)

l Geko Dive (Padang Bai, T: 0363 415 16, www.gekodive.com) have a very popular dive centre that provides PADI courses and fun dives around the north eastern tip of Bali and across to Nusa Lembongan, Ceningan and Penida with their speedboat. Recently appointed the PADI Eco aware status for their conservation efforts. (P:145, ref:C2)

the bar & club scene Unsurprisingly there’s not a wide array of bars and clubs to fill an evening out in either Padang Bai or Candidasa, but that’s the reason most visitors travel to these quiet, sleepy towns in the first place. However, there are some bars that are worth visiting on your way through. Out of the two areas Padang Bai has a slightly livelier nightlife scene and many tourists staying in Candidasa make the trip to the bay for a late night out. Babylon Reggae Bar (Padang Bai) is an expatriate and visitors’ favourite and is a small, unpretentious place with a laidback vibe and music policy as the name may suggest. (P:145, ref:C1) Mr Grumpy’s (Candidasa) is another low key bar and café setup that shows live sports broadcasts and movies late into the night. Omang Omang (Padang Bai) has regular live music and draws a respectable crowd most evenings. 150

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Raja’s (Candidasa) shows nightly movies in a cosy bar setting; if there’s not a crowd at Raja’s then Candidasa doesn’t have that many visitors in town. Zen Bar (Padang Bai) has friendly staff, a large sports screen and a seemingly infinite choice of music and videos all set in attractive surroundings. dining out There is a great choice of simple eateries on the beach front at Padang Bai. It’s a short stroll around the bay to peruse each menu then simply take a seat, no fuss. Candidasa has more of a variety of cafés and restaurants lining the main road and beachfront. Bamboo Cafe (Padang Bai, T: 0815 5821 4925) is located near the beautiful white sand Bias Tugel Beach of Padang Bai. Join the family atmosphere and enjoy holiday life at a relaxing place here. Rooms have AC, hot water, TV DVD and fridge and the kitchen serves international food and specialities from their grill. Acoustic live music accompanies dinner every night and the cafe throws open the doors to all musicians who are welcome to join for a jam sesson. (P:113, ref:B3) Lotus Seaview Restaurant (Candidasa, T: 0363 412 57) is a sea front restaurant offering fresh www.theislandkey.com

lobster, a selection from the daily catch plus a mix of Asian and international cuisines. (P:145, ref:B3) Ozone (Padang Bai, T: 0363 415 01) is quite literally the alternative to everything else, just about the only place that can get very lively after dark. (P:145, ref:C1) Pantai Ayu (Padang Bai, T: 0363 413 96) is right on the beach and is always full serving Chinese style seafood dishes. The very pleasant and friendly lbu Komang presents guests with small gifts - a krupuk udang for a welcome and an out rigger souvenir to take home, a touch of hospitality! Sea Salt Restaurant (Alila Manggis, T: 0363 410 11, www. alilahotels.com) offers fine dining including some incredibly unique traditional Balinese dishes. Toke CafĂŠ (Candidasa, T: 0363 419 91) is an eatery from the same owners as Vincentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. They do a great Indian curry that is very popular with tourists. (P:145, ref:B3)

Vincentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (Candidasa, T: 0363 413 68) has a great ambience, quality international cuisine, artwork and downtempo jazz for long lazy afternoons beachside. (P:145, ref:C2) Watergarden (Candidasa, T: 0363 415 40, www. watergardenhotel.com) is a hotel with an onsite restaurant serving

international and Indonesian dishes. The food is always reliably good and the service friendly and attentive. (P:145, ref:A3) accommodation There is plenty of accommodation in Candidasa and Padang Bai and two luxury resorts nearby in Manggis. Most visitors stay only for a couple of days to break their journey from the south to the northeast of Bali and vice versa but for divers the area teems with marine life and the relaxed pace of life can be extremely seductive. Amankila (Manggis, T: 0363 41 333, www.amankila. com) is the ultimate in luxury on the east coast. Private villas and exquisite Aman service are de rigeur; be sure to visit the mountainside Aman bale for sundown cocktails high above the rolling Amlapura regency. Bloo Lagoon (Padang Bai, T: 0363 41 211, www.bloolagoon. com) is a shared resort overlooking the pristine northeastern Bali ocean. Ecological sensitivity is high on its list of priorities at Blooo Lagoon, with a lot of land set aside for community use, although unrivalled facilities and unique villas mean that there is no compromise on comfort. (P:145, ref:D3)

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Candi Beach Cottage (Candidasa, T: 0363 41 234, www.candibeachbali.com) is a four star resort, set within a coconut grove garden beside a white sand beach and is popular with couples. The restaurant serves a choice of European and Indonesian dishes plus the usual daily fresh seafood straight from the fishing boats. Dharma Homestay (Candidasa, T: 0363 413 94) is a clean, family set-up in the village; upstairs rooms are big and have good sitting areas outside. Centrally located 50 metres in from the beach. AC/hot water. Hotel Puri Rai (Padang Bai, T: 0363 41 385), is a mid range hotel with a swimming pool right beside the beach at Padang Bai and is popular with visiting divers. Kerti Beach Inn (Padang Bai, T: 0363 413 91, www. kertibeachinn.com) located near the main stretch of the beach is a comfortable resort with a unique style has a cluster of unfussy bungalows and thatched cottages. (P:145, ref:D2)

Marco Inn (Padang Bai, T: 081 2466 0996 ) has eight clean but basic rooms with a dedicated kitchen area and TV lounge for guests, all set within a pretty and well-maintained tropical garden that is ripe for relaxing in! (P:145, ref:C2)

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Watergarden (Candidasa, T: 0363 41 540, www. watergardenhotel.com) features affordable bungalows scattered among lush gardens and water ponds. (P:145, ref:A3) activities Tenganan is a unique 700 year-old walled village hidden within the hills three kilometres north of Candidasa. Here, the resident Bali Aga people conduct a timehonoured lifestyle based around ritual and ceremony, bound by strict `adatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (customary law) practices to maintain purity. Tenganan is one of Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original pre-Hindu settlements and a stronghold of native traditions. The fortress-like village has become a living museum, and many of the houses also function as shops and workshops where expert craftsmen and women perform centuriesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; old skills. Alila Manggis Organic Cooking School (Manggis, T: 0363 410 11, www.alilahotels. com/manggis) is a true one of its kind cooking experience. Bike down the hill from the resort to the breezy foothills of the Manggis mountains and venture into the organic gardens where Chef Penny Williams and her team of culinary experts have the outdoor cooking setup, with a view to dine for! www.theislandkey.com

Alila Manggis organic cooking school (courtesy image)

Learn the basics behind East Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specialist regional cuisine and go hands on in the rustic kitchens to prepare lunch, then kick back and relax in the shade to sample your traditional Balinese culinary creations. Bali Safari and Marine Park (Padang Bai, T: 0361 950 000, www.balisafarimarinepark. com) gives visitors a very different experience and a unique combination of natural wildlife with a strong Balinese cultural influence. This 40-hectare park provides the special safari vehicles to interact with 400 animals from 3 regions including Indonesia, India, and

Africa. It costs approx. US$35/ person to get a walk in ticket, and your ride on a safari bus (which takes about half an hour or so) and a photo with an animal is included in the cost. Harley Davidson (Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass, T: 0361 764 272, www. harley-davidson-bali.com) provides some high power equipment to propel you around the northeastern vicinity - amazingly this area in Bali has some of the best roads - perfect for cruising! A lot of the organised bike rides from Kuta head up to this part of Bali just for the smooth riding, lack of traffic and stunning scenery with almost unlimited views. padang bai & candidasa

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Beach living at The Grand Hyatt (courtesy image)

www.theislandkey.com introduction A historical village on the southeast coast, Sanur was Bali’s original tourist enclave. It is characterised by shady lanes, vine-draped coral walls, sedate leafy compounds, majestic trees and a five-kilometre shoreline within a gentle reef-sheltered lagoon. The island’s first simple guest rooms were constructed here in the 1940s, heralding the age of modern tourism. The ambience is mellow, restful and cosmopolitan. Foreign visitors rub shoulders with the locals, chic traditional markets border fashionable boutiques, and a plethora of hidden temples can be found squeezed in between art galleries and highly touted restaurants. Sailing boats dot the horizon, and old men in conical hats linger on the stone jetties with their fishing rods while contemplating the aquatic aerobatics of the kite surfers. A paved esplanade runs the length of the sandy beach, recently saved from erosion by an impressive landscaping and conservation project that has also safeguarded the coral reef. 154

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keyshortcuts The white sand beaches and lagoons in Sanur are amongst the best in Bali (see page 156 for beach life recommendations) Spend the day shopping along Sanur’s tourist friendly streets (see page 156 for shopping recommendations) Check out the café culture of Sanur and dine out at the best restaurants (see page 157 for dining recommendations) Explore the oceanfloor, learn to kite surf then visit the home of one of Bali’s most famous expatriate artists (see page 158 for activities recommendations)

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getting there Sanur is a twenty-five minute taxi ride from the airport or twenty from Kuta at around IDR 50,000 to 75,000. Jl Danau Tamblingan stretches from the north of Sanur all the way through to the south end where the highest concentration of activity is to be found. In stark contrast to the potholed Seminyak roads, Sanur is well maintained and relatively congestion free meaning Tamblingan is perfect for a lazy stroll and is one of the few places in Bali where a Bemo (minibus) ride can be considered comfortable transportation.

north of Sanur towards Keramas for more uncrowded waves that can be fantastic. Padang Galak (Pantai Padang Galak) is also known as `Secretsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rare that the sandbanks are any real quality at all. Friendly locals and a good spot to gauge the Sanur Reef lineup. All levels. Sanur Reef is a semi sheltered right hand reef break that only occasionally delivers the goods during the wet season period Nov to Apr. Best on a rising mid tide, the submerged rocks and reef and localism can be hazardous. Advanced.

beach life The white sand beach at Sanur is excellent for watching the sunrise, strolling, jogging or cycling along the path beside the shoreline. The waves are gentle, great for swimming and safe for children, all of which contributes to Sanur being a family destination. the surf Wet season right and lefts dominate the Sanur area. All are reef breaks best suited to intermediate and advanced level surfers but up the road in Padang Galak there are some sandbanks that can occasionally get very good. Head 156

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shopping & style There are no shopping malls in Sanur, but there are some interesting artshops on the bypass and a fair selection of boutiques lining Jl Danau Tamblingan down to the local tourist shops in the south. Cahaya (Jl ByPass I Gusti Ngurah Rai, T: 0361 286 177) is a treasure trove of antique artefacts and some not-so-old curios, from all around the Indonesian archipelago. Here, you will find primitive stone heads from Sumba, decorative 100year-old house panels from Sulawesi, wooden sculptures from Timor, and hefty stone water containers from Central Java. www.theislandkey.com

Carlo (Jl Danau Poso, T: 0361 285 211, www.carloshowroom. com) offers unique designer furniture, furnishings and accessories typified by an innovative fusion of natural materials, incisive design, reliability and an uncompromising commitment to quality. (P:155, ref:B6) Suarti Maestro (Jl ByPass I Gusti Ngurah Rai, T: 0361 282 290, www.suartimaestro.com) showcases the work of one of the island’s premier Balinese jewellery designers. Dubbed `wearable art’, Suarti’s creations are distinctive, elegant, and flamboyant, inspired by ancient Indonesian traditions. (P:155, ref:C6) the bar & club scene Nightlife in Sanur is a bit subdued, with most places closing at midnight. Kuta is only twenty minutes away and many jump in a taxi to continue the party either there or in Seminyak. However, there are two Sanur hotspots worth checking out. Arena (Jl ByPass I Gusti Ngurah Rai, T: 0361 287 255) is a pub and Austrian/German restaurant where expats love to hang out and enjoy televised sporting events, trivia quizzes, a pool table and live music. The steaks and ribs here are top class. (P:155, ref:C2) Sector Bar & Club (Jl ByPass I Gusti Ngurah Rai, T: 0361 236 260) is the clubhouse restaurant of

the Bali Beach Golf Course. The target is not just the golfing fraternity; this stylish restaurant is also a bar and nightclub, complete with DJs, live music and dancers. (P:155, ref:C1) dining out There’s no shortage of dining options in the Sanur area but the quality varies greatly from one establishment to the next. Most visitors seem to return to the same restaurant time and time again but there are other options worth exploring. Café Batu Jimbar (Jl Danau Tamblingan, T: 0361 287 374, www.cafebatujimbar.com) is a funky casual café serving excellent international cuisine, cakes and fresh juices. Wireless throughout and a cosy atmosphere make this place incredibly popular. (P:155, ref:D4) The Cat and Fiddle (Jl Cemara, T: 0361 282 218) can be found at the southern end of Sanur and serves very tasty breakfasts, classic English and Irish food throughout the day and hosts live music in the evenings. Cold Guinness in a pub environment makes this place a winner. (P:155, ref:C6) The Village (Jl Danau Tamblingan, T: 0361 285 025) serves tasty home-style Italian cuisine al fresco. Live music and an airconditioned dining room make this restaurant a dinner favourite. (P:155, ref:D4)

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Wicked Parrot (Jl Danau Tamblingan, T: 0361 281 814) is the sister restaurant to The Cat and Fiddle serving Western and Indonesian cuisines. Live Jazz and acoustic performances nightly with Irish bands every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. (P:155, ref:D4)

activities

Besakih Resort (Jl Tamblingan, T: 0361 288 423, www.besakihresortbali.com) offers bungalows with air conditioning and hot water, two swimming pools and a restaurant. (P:155, ref:D4) l Crystal Santai Hotel (Jl Danau Tamblingan 168, T: 0361 286 737, www.crystal-divers.com) have ten rooms, a large swimming pool and restaurant and bar. The central location make this the perfect accommodation for divers in Sanur.

The beach tends to get busy, as numerous water-sports activities are available. The maze of streets and lanes around Sanur have some hidden treasures worth seeking out. l Bali Diving Academy (Jl Danau Tamblingan, Sanur head office, T: 0361 270 252, www. scubali.com) offer diving trips to all island destinations including their other Bali Diving Academy centres that can also be found in Tulamben, Nusa Lembongan, Pemuteran and Gili Trawangan. (P:155, ref:D4) l Crystal Divers (Jl Danau Tamblingan 168, T: 0361 286 737, www.crystal-divers.com) are the highest ranking five star PADI career development centre in Asia, who provide all levels of dive courses and fun dive trips around the islands. Full facilities include huge classroom, training pool, restaurant, bar and accommodation. (P:155, ref:C5) Museum Le Mayeur (Jl Hang Tuah, T: 0361 286 201) exhibits the artwork of Belgian impressionist painter, Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur, who lived in Bali from 1932 until shortly before his death in 1958. Sometimes described as Indonesiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gaugin, most of Le Mayeurâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paintings depict his Balinese wife, Ni Pollok, a star Legong dancer. The museum is the house where they lived. (P:155,

(P:155, ref:C5)

ref:D1)

accommodation There is a good choice of accommodation in Sanur, most within walking distance to the beach and attractions on Jl Danau Tamblingan. Sanur traditionally attracts a European crowd and families but caters to all needs and budgets. Bali Hyatt (T: 0361 281 234, www.balihyatt.com) although old, is remarkably well maintained, with lotus ponds and fabulous gardens all the way to the private beach. (P:119, ref:D5)

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art shopping tips

Art is omnipresent in Bali. Inseparable from the cultural and religious life of the communities, it plays an intense role in daily life, and can be seen everywhere from elaborately-carved doorways, stone statues and wood sculptures to temple architecture, fabulous paintings, masks, textiles, jewellery, and beautifully-crafted offerings to the gods. Stone carvings can be found in the villages of Batubulan and Singapadu, where statues are exhibited all along the main road. Swirling stone friezes and mythological statuary are created mainly from soft volcanic stone, paras river rock, or the pale, creamy Yogyakarta stone. Handcrafted jewellery is produced in Celuk by master craftsmen, whose intricate skills and trade secrets have been passed down through generations of families. If you are looking to buy paintings, browse the galleries and check out some exhibitions to get a feel for your taste. Meet the artist and commission a painting! Prices may not be negotiable in the fine art galleries, but commercial artwork figures are always `open to discussionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. sanur

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Walkway service (courtesy of The Balé)

www.theislandkey.com introduction Meaning `two islands’ and named after the coastline’s twin islets, Nusa Dua boasts an elite tourist enclave of wide paved lanes and manicured gardens, restaurants, a shopping mall, conference centre and golf course to support its five-star resorts. In 1973, this sparsely-populated, flat terrain with its gorgeous beaches, dry climate and proximity to the airport was chosen as the location of the most ambitious resort project in Indonesia’s history. Progress was stalled many times, but by 1993, the project had achieved the provincial government’s goal of nine up-market hotels with a total of 2700 rooms. The area has preserved some of its original roots; small temples, many established by the 16th century Hindu reformist priest, Danghyang Nirartha, are found in the outer villages and on hotel grounds. Nusa Dua has emerged as an incredibly popular destination for Russian tourists, who visit Bali in great numbers each January, and the Japanese who favour the high-end resort lifestyle. 160

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keyshortcuts Explore the picture postcard white sand beaches of Nusa Dua (see page 162 for beach life recommendations) Enjoy a leisurely shopping experience in Bali’s only open air mall (see page 162 for shopping recommendations) Experience world-class service at some of Bali’s most exclusive hotels and resorts (see page 166 for accommodation recommendations) Tee-off on the flawless fairways of the Bali Golf & Country Club (see page 166 for activities recommendations)

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H Conrad Bali Resort & Spa

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H Nusa Dua Beach Hotel

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H Melia Bali Resort

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H Melia Bali S Bali Collection S Surfer Girl S The Sandpit H Grand Hyatt Bali

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getting there Few taxis cruise the streets for passengers in the Nusa Dua area, but hotel concierges are always happy to assist and will call to order from the outside taxi ranks. The fixed fare from the airport to Nusa Dua is around IDR 95,000 and the trip takes about twenty minutes. There is a transport facility in front of the Bali Collection outdoor shopping precinct with rates to every location on the island. Negotiate a discount here and the prices can be fairly competitive. beach life The beaches of Nusa Dua are maintained by the resorts and are amongst the best (and cleanest) on the island. A paved walkway runs the length of the beach linking the resorts together. Some stretches of beach have facilities that only cater to hotel guests but day visitors will always be able to find a patch of sand to occupy without any bother. Sawangan beach near The Balé resort is an excellent white sand beach but take your own supplies, as it’s quite secluded. the surf Nusa Dua is a prime wet season surf destination with the same southerly exposure as Uluwatu meaning that the swells that pound the outer reefs can produce some 162

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Hawaiian size waves both in terms of height and power. Scope out the area and you may even find some semi hidden surprises. Nusa Dua (Geger Beach) is the jump off point to get to the outer reefs. The beach is clearly signposted to the left just past the Amanusa resort. This right hand wet season wave is a thirty-minute paddle from the shore but the currents can be ferocious and the peaks continually shift. Better to hitch a boat ride out from in front of the warungs and reserve energy. Advanced. Sri Lanka (Club Med Beach) Can be found in front of the Club Med resort. A short paddle out through the lagoon leads to a bowling right-hander that can barrel when over six feet. Sri Lanka is more protected than the Nusa Dua outer reefs and has a picture postcard beach. All levels. shopping & style There’s not too much in the way of traditional high street style shopping to be found in Nusa Dua, so many visitors staying in the area head to Seminyak and the boutiques for shopping needs. One area reserved for shopping in Nusa Dua is Bali Collection towards the southern side of the grounds. Look for the hot air balloon that hovers www.theislandkey.com

above the outdoor shopping precinct. For some no frills clothing, check out Nusa Dua’s two tourist markets: one is situated on Jl Pantai Mengiat (near Mengiat Beach) and the other is close to Melia Bali Resort. l The Sandpit (Bali Collection, T: 0361 775 698, www.surfergirl.com) is a branch of Surfer Girl specifically for the 2-6 age range. As always at Surfer Girl, there is a wide selection of brands including their own brand, major surf labels and smaller labels Karusel and Wanabe. (P:161, ref:C4)

l Surfer Girl (Bali Collection, T: 0361 775 698, www.surfer-girl. com) is the leading all girls surf shop. is a beach babe’s wonderland with clothing and accessories from all the major surf brands, arranged in groups in the maze-like megastore. They also have their own range of products in eye-popping candy colours. (P:161, ref:C4)

wellbeing Each resort has a signature spa with some of the best therapists and selection of treatments on the island. Five star services come at five star prices but some of the resort spas are an essential wellbeing visit. Kriya (Grand Hyatt Bali, T: 0361 771 234) is inspired 164

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by the architecture of an ancient Balinese water palace and offers some sublime Ayurvedic therapies and healing rituals. (P:161, ref:D4) l The Spa (The Balé, Jl Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, T: 0361 775 111, www.thebale.com) has an excellent choice of therapies set in sleek, contemporary surroundings. Two highlights are the `Zen Ritual’ for body and mind and the `Tropical Romantic’ ritual - perfect for couples. (P:161, ref:B5) dining out There is no shortage of restaurants in Nusa Dua from beachside cafés to world class fine dining in the resorts. There’s a restaurant to suit almost every occasion and budget. l Faces (The Balé, Jl Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, T: 0361 775 111, www.thebale.com) is a fantastic dining location for a romantic dinner. Chef Brandon Huisman serves `fine soulfood’ using only the freshest of local produce. The outdoor Fluid Bar and Lounge transforms into a magical setting at dusk for poolside cocktails in the private cabanas. (P:161, ref:B5)

Nusa Dua Beach Grill (Pantai Geger, T: 0361 743 4779) offers International dishes, including pastas, sandwiches and snacks, together with Indonesian favourites. (P:161, ref:C5)

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Nusa Dua sunrise (courtesy of The Laguna)

Terrace (Amanusa, T: 0361 772 333) commands a sweeping 270º view of the golf course and the ocean. The menu specializes in delectable Thai and Indonesian cuisine, with the additional choice of Western dishes served at lunchtime.

activities

Grand Hyatt Bali (T: 0361 771 234, www.hyatt.com) has spacious rooms set in no less than four Balinese-style villages with six swimming pools, a fitness centre and gym, kids’ club and five restaurants.

Nusa Dua caters just as well to land activities as the waves do to visiting surfers. The big draw is the stunning golf course set just inland adjacent to The Balé and Amanusa. Dance performances take place daily at Bali Collection with free admission and during dinner at most of the major resorts. The Bali Eye (adjacent to Bali Collection, T: 0361 770 101) gives visitors a bird’s eye view of Bali at an altitude of 100 metres in a tethered, helium gas balloon. The flight duration is 10–12 minutes. (P:161, ref:C4) Bali Golf & Country Club (Kawasan Wisata, T: 0361 771 791, www.baligolfandcountryclub. com) has been voted one of Asia’s top five golf courses. The views of Nusa Dua, the Indian Ocean and Mount Agung provide plenty of contrast. Play takes place past creeks, canyons and waterfalls, through a mature coconut grove to the beach and back to the clubhouse alongside a lake. (P:161, ref:B5) Pasifika Art Museum (Block P, T: 0361 774 935) showcases the artwork and paintings of Bali and Indonesia, Indochina, Polynesia, Melanesia, China and Asia. The museum also displays 250 objects of Pacific premier art and unique `tapas’, paintings on wood bark of Oceania.

(P:161, ref:D4)

(P:161, ref:C3)

(P:161, ref:A5)

accommodation Accommodation in and around the Nusa Dua area is predominantly five star boasting some of the most luxurious resorts on the island. For those in need of a dose of luxury living, Nusa Dua is the place to head to. l The Balé (The Balé, Jl Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, T: 0361 775 111, www.thebale.com) is a retreat dedicated to relaxing the mind and revitalizing the body. Twenty-nine luxury pavilions with private swimming pools offer designer living in Bali at its best. Charming staff, a great restaurant and bar, attention to every detail and proximity to the golf course and beach makes The Balé a very popular choice for discerning visitors. (P:161, ref:B5)

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Romantic dinner at Conrad Resort & Spa (Courtesy image)

www.theislandkey.com introduction The cape of Tanjung Benoa presents history, colour and a busy vibe. This slender peninsula juts out into the Badung Strait north of Nusa Dua and points like a finger towards Benoa Harbour. Large family resorts, restaurants and water sport operators line the five kilometre long sandy beach and, on a clear day, the views of the towering sea cliffs of Nusa Penida and the mighty volcano, Gunung Agung, are quite spectacular. The village of Benoa on the tip of the peninsula was once a bustling trading port, the mercantile hub for the southern Bukit Badung and the eastern islands, and many Chinese and Bugis descendants of these traders still live in the area. This is the place to explore local life, but it’s best early or late in the day when the heat and dust are less riled by the traffic lumbering along the main road. The backstreets are a rabbit warren of alleys pocketed with small shops. Here, you can watch the fish-drying activities of the villagers, combined 168

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keyshortcuts Dive into Bali’s premier Thalasso spa (see page 170 for wellbeing recommendations) Dine like royalty on traditional Balinese cuisine in the celebrated Raja’s (see page 170 for dining recommendations) Lead a jet-set lifestyle in Tanjung Benoa’s five star resorts (see page 172 for accommodation recommendations) Learn the basics of Balinese cuisine at one of the island’s most famous restaurants (see page 172 for activities)

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with the sights and sounds of Benoa Harbour, across a short stretch of water. Nestled within the narrow lanes of the village you will find Balinese temples crafted from carved limestone, a mosque, and a traditional open-air market. getting there The fixed taxi fare from the airport to Tanjung Benoa is IDR 105,000 and the journey takes about half an hour. From the Kuta and Seminyak area the price is closer to IDR 120,000 depending on the traffic. Almost all resorts in Tanjung Benoa offer staying guests a pick up and drop off service. beach life The fabled white sands of Nusa Dua stretch up the peninsula past the hotels lining the Tanjung Benoa waterfront. The beachfront walkway runs into the Nusa Dua grounds so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an easy task to find a secluded beach spot away from the crowds. For an energetic start to the day the walkway doubles as a great jogging circuit. wellbeing The spas in Tanjung Benoa are to be found within the confines of the resorts and hotels in the area, some of which are highly unique. 170

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Jiwa (Conrad Bali Resort & Spa, T: 0361 778 788) provide aromatherapy treatments that awaken the five basic human senses plus reflexology and a full range of beauty treatments in the award-winning spa. (P:171, ref:B5)

Thalasso Bali (Grand Mirage Hotel, Jl Pratama, T: 0361 773 883, www.thalassobali.com) uses the curative properties of seawater in their Aquamedic seawater pool to provide a unique head-to-toe Thalasso massage experience. A full range of oceanic products is available. (P:171, ref:B3)

dining out Nightlife and fine dining in Tanjung Benoa can be found in the hotels. There are not very many independent international restaurants in the area but this is sure to change given time. The five star resorts all offer some phenomenal cuisine that is worth travelling to sample from other parts of the island. Bumbu Bali (Jl Pratama, T: 0361 774 502) is the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first authentic Balinese restaurant. Designed in accordance with the principles of a traditional Balinese home compound, each small dining area faces out onto a common courtyard, presenting performances of Balinese music and dance. (P:171, ref:B5)

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Exterior view of Conrad Resort & Spa (courtesy image)

The Tao Bali (Jl Pratama, T: 0361 773 730) offers guests an Asian fine dining alfresco experience or within the exotic interior, heralded by a serene Buddha against a rich backdrop of crimson and gold decorations. The menu offers superb Thai cuisine, plus some Chinese, Vietnamese and Indonesian specialties. (P:171, ref:B4)

Conrad Resort & Spa (Jl Pratama, T: 0361 778 788) is a sleek, contemporary resort with most of the rooms and suites sporting ocean views. The restaurants are of the highest possible standard in keeping with the resort’s five star rating and there is a complete range of facilities including the luxurious Jiwa Spa. (P:171, ref:B5)

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activities

The Tanjung Benoa area is largely populated with mid to top end hotels and resorts with a scattering of smaller homestay operations to be found on Jl Pratama. Staying guests tend to lean towards the ocean-facing resorts whilst day visitors make the trip to the area to enjoy the beaches and facilities the resorts provide. Benoa Quay Harbourside Villas (Tanjung Benoa Harbourside, T: 0811 873 442, www.liveinbali. com) consists of nine beautifully designed luxury three bedroom and bathroom villas built to Western standards and includes a private tropical pool. The villas are situated on a 4300 square metre site boasting harbour frontage with fantastic port and ocean views. All of the villas are fully managed with amenities including reception, restaurant, bar and a boardwalk to the beach. (P:171,

Tanjung Benoa is full of watersport operators offering everything from wakeboarding, kite surfing and wave running to knee boarding. There’s also waterskiing, jet skiing, windsurfing, para sailing, power boats, banana boats and glass bottomed boats. Bumbu Bali Cooking School (Jl Pratama, T: 0361 771 256) is hosted by celebrated chef Heinz von Holzen. The experience includes a tour of Jimbaran’s busy market before beginning a stimulating, four hour, hands on cooking programme in which students learn how to blend the aromatic ingredients that make up Balinese cuisine, before going on to cook and relish a complete Balinese feast. Bumbu Bali is also actively involved in a turtle release programme, with a mission to re-populate Bali’s coastline with endangered marine turtles. (P:171,

ref:A2)

ref:B4)

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Suku at Conrad Resort & Spa (courtesy image)

(i) keyinfo

festivals & events

Nyepi marks the Balinese Saka New Year. It occurs on the day that follows the dark moon of the spring equinox. This is when the island retreats into silence for 24 hours. On this darkest of nights the Balinese Hindus will not cook, work or travel. There will be no flights in or out of Bali, all streets will be deserted and no lights will be switched on. The night before Nyepi, exciting street carnival processions take place as the evil spirits are driven away with gongs, drums, cymbals, firecrackers and huge, scary, highly creative papier-mâché monsters known as `ogohogoh’, with fangs, bulging eyes and wild hair. The Bali Kite Festival takes place near Sanur in July when the winds are strong. Traditional giant kites, up to 4x10 metres in size, are made and flown competitively by teams from different villages. The Commonwealth Bank Tennis Classic, the largest women’s tennis tournament in Southeast Asia, is held every September in Nusa Dua, on the courts of The Grand Hyatt Bali. tanjung benoa

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Monkey business at Uluwatu (Foued Kadachi)

www.theislandkey.com introduction The Bukit Peninsula is a 140 square kilometre, lemon-shaped, limestone tableland that dangles like a pendant upon a chain at the southernmost extremity of the island. The dry, rocky landscape is dotted with wild flowers, stunted bush, cassava, prickly pear, spectacular scarlet flowering flamboyants and fascinating kapok trees. Bukit is the Indonesian word for hill and, until recently, this dry-land outcrop was home only to seaweed farmers, fishermen, cassava farmers and a few ardent surfers. Since the millennium, however, this up-and-coming region has reinvented itself to become one of the most upmarket destinations on the island. Jimbaran lies on the western side of Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s narrow isthmus, a sweeping bay that curves for four kilometres from the southern side of the airport to the start of the Bukit Peninsula. The village is renowned for the Barong Dance, and a holy banyan tree towers above the 11th century temple known as Puri Ulun Siwi, dedicated to the spirits 174

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keyshortcuts Get photographed on the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous surf breaks (see page 176 for surf recommendations) Break the bank and splash out on a supreme spa treatment (see page 176 for wellbeing recommendations) Spend the night by the beach in some of The Bukitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best accommodation (see page 180 for accommodation recommendations) A sunset Kecak Dance performance at Puri Luhur Uluwatu is a must (see page 182 for activities)

Benoa Harbour

Bali Strait

Ngurah Rai International Airport

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The Four Seasons

Bingin Surfing Impossibles Surfing Padang Padang Suluban Beach

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that inhabit the ricefields. Across the road is a thriving fruit and vegetable market, but what makes Jimbaran really famous is its fresh fish. Every morning, the fishermen return to the shore in their gaily painted vessels to trade their marine harvest at the bustling Kedonganan fish market. getting there Jimbaran is fifteen minutes from the airport and the fixed taxi fare, to the vicinity of the Intercontinental Resort, is IDR 60,000. To the Four Seasons Resort or the seafood warungs (eateries) on the beach in the same area, it will cost closer to IDR 75,000. Fixed taxi fares from the

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airport to the more remote areas of the Bukit start at IDR 95,000, with the fare to Uluwatu, for example, costing IDR 135,000. Take a metered taxi and save around a third on these prices. beach life The Bukit presents some of the most idyllic beaches in Bali; hidden coves that are great for both surfers and non-surfers alike. Jimbaran Beach is also very tranquil, with soft golden sand and calm water, making it a safe haven for swimming. Padang Padang is suitable for swimming at high tide as is Balangan, right next door to Dreamland and far more natural in its beauty. bukit & jimbaran

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the surf Hang around surfers and you will hear mention of Uluwatu, Padang Padang, Impossibles, Bingin, Dreamland, Balangan, Nyang-Nyang and Green Ball - poetically named waves that break on shallow reefs creating long long tubes. All of these world-class reefbreaks are located on The Bukit. Bingin is another lefthander, providing some of the most intense small wave tubes. Can get crowded. Advanced. Green Ball is a longer right that sucks up all available swell and can produce quality waves. Experienced. Impossibles offers a series of long winding lefthanders, which can either be your best friend or your worst enemy as the closeouts are unpredictable. Advanced. Nyang-Nyang is a bowly righthander over shallow reef. Can get big fast. Strong rips. Experienced. Padang Padang is one of the best and heaviest lefthanders in the world, solid barrel sections need a six foot plus swell to start working. Experts only. Uluwatu and its famous entry cave, is the island’s first `discovered’ break, featuring the most consistent waves. Uluwatu, or Ulu’s, as it is affectionately known, offers peeling lefts over three sections with Outside Corner holding serious size. Advanced. 176

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l Rapture Surf Camp (Jl Labuhan Sait, Pantai Bingin, T: 0813 375 78261, www.rapturecamps. com) provide guided tours, lessons and water photography at all breaks on The Bukit. (P:175, ref:B2)

wellbeing The spas at Jimbaran and on the Bukit are among the most sumptuous and expensive on the island but remain very popular with day visitors to the five star resorts where they can be found. The Four Seasons (Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010) uses sea-salt crystals, seaweed and aromatics with pure water in its all-natural treatments, while the holistic health activity programme incorporates a tailored combination of alternative therapies. The treatments for couples are also higly recommended here including an Ayurvedic seduction of the senses inspired package lasting over three hours. (P:177, ref:A6) l Spa on the Rocks (Ayana Resort & Spa, Jimbaran, T: 0361 702 222) appears to defy nature. Private, tranquil, romantic and sensuous, two dreamy pavilions are perched atop a pair of glistening offshore rocks, linked by steps and bridged by a timber walkway surrounded by the crystalline waters it offers exclusively-designed and luxurious face and body-soothing treatments. (P:175, ref:B2) www.theislandkey.com

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dining out The seafood cafes at Jimbaran Bay are a favourite destination for visitors. Here, the air is thick with the aromatic smoke of the burning coconut husks used to fuel the barbeque grills. Alternatively you can check out some of the gourmand five star dining experiences in Jimbaran’s fleet of top-class resorts. l Dava (Ayana Resort and Spa, Jl Karang Mas Sejahtera, T: 0361 702 222, www.ayanaresort. com) is one of Ayana’s ultra chic restaurants, and serves an innovative array of modern Asian cuisine. Choose from the two sleek dining rooms or the outdoor terrace, and soak up the stunning Indian Ocean views. For classy pre-dinner aperitifs, try the Martini & Oyster Bar next door. (P:175, ref:B2) Il Ristorante (T: 0361 847 1000, www.bulgarihotels.com) is the romantic, Italian fine dining restaurant at Bulgari Resort. (P:175, ref:B3)

l Padi (Resort and Spa, Jl Karang Mas Sejahtera, T: 0361 702 222, www.ayanaresort.com) previously the resort’s Thai restaurant, has been completely renovated and expanded, and its dinner menu re-launched with an ‘Asian Spice’ concept offering Indian, Indonesian and Thai cuisine. (P:175, ref:B2) 178

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l Rock Bar (Ayana Resort and Spa, Jl Karang Mas Sejahtera, T: 0361 702 222, www.ayanaresort. com) previously the resort’s Thai restaurant, boasts one of the most impressive locations of any bar, sitting on and carved out of natural rocks fourteen metres above the ocean - see if you can spot the DJ booth tucked away in the cliff face. Get out your glad rags and go! (P:175, ref:B2)

The Restaurant @ Alila Villas Uluwatu (Jl Belimbing Sari, T: 0361 848 2166, www. alilahotels.com/uluwatu) is a spectacular place to enjoy a meal with its unrestricted panoramic views of the sea and clifftop Sunset Cabana. The contemporary western menu features a selection of fine gourmet dishes, made with the best regional produce and the chefs are always happy to accommodate individual requests. (P:175, ref:C3) The Warung @ Alila Villas Uluwatu (Jl Belimbing Sari, T: 0361 848 2166, www. alilahotels.com/uluwatu) serves wholesome Indonesian and Balinese dishes in casual yet sophisticated surroundings. There are indoor and outdoor seating areas, including communal tables for those of a sociable nature, and private tables for those who want a more intimate experience. (P:175, ref:C3)

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accommodation The Bukit boasts some of Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most glamorous villas and internationally-branded boutique hotels but there are budget places to be found mostly around the surf spots. Alila Villas Uluwatu (Belimbing Sari, T: 0361 848 2166, www.alilahotels.com/uluwatu) adhere to an environmentally sustainable framework, so that guests can enjoy luxury with a conscience. The natureinspired villas are bursting with luxurious features, and the 24-hour butler service takes care of any other guest needs. (P:175, ref:C3)

l Ayana Resort and Spa (Jl Karang Mas Sejahtera, T: 0361 702 222, www.ayanaresort.com) ) is designed to ensure maximum seclusion for every guest, with 78 freestanding luxury cliff-top villas set in tropical gardens. There is a variety of beautifully appointed accommodation, including one and two-bedroom cliff top villas and a lavish three-bedroom villa, ideal for wedding celebrations or guests on honeymoon. (P:175, ref:B2) Bale @ Bingin & Herawati (Bingin Beach, T: 081 2394 9822, www.surfbalibingin.com) are two places under the same ownership: Bale @ Bingin offers luxury living right on the beach in beautiful Balinese style rooms, while Herawati offers cheap, comfortable rooms for those on a budget. (P:175, ref:B2) 180

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The Calyx (Jl Bingin, T: 0361 847 0958, www.thecalyx.com) is an elegant complex, characterised by artistic masterpieces and a minimalist flair. Each of the four two-bedroom villas have open plan living and dining areas and comprehensive entertainment systems. (P:175, ref:B2) Four Seasons (Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010, www. fourseasons.com) presents private villas and residences with pools all with a majestic view over Jimbaran Bay. The restaurants are of the very best quality and the private beach club is the perfect spot for a lazy Sunday brunch. (P:177, ref:A6) Intercontinental Resort Bali (Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 888, www.baliintercontimental. com) is a beachfront family resort with spacious grounds and excellent restaurants. The Club Suites are a firm favourite amongst jet-set travellers. (P:177, ref:B6) l Rapture Surf Camp (Jl Labuhan Sait, Pantai Bingin, T: 0813 3757 8261, www. rapturecamps.com) are perfectly situated right in the middle of Bingin, Padang Padang and Uluwatu, with waves ranging from beginners to intermediates and pro levels. Guided lessons are available to all levels and the funky surf camp huts are clean and well maintained. (P:175, ref:B2)

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181 Pool with a view at The Ayana Resort & Spa (courtesy image)

activities Jimbaran and the Bukit don’t offer much in the way of nightlife, shopping or activities, but it is a great place for relaxing during the day and close enough to Kuta for its party scene. Alila Uluwatu Journey of Enlightenment (Jl Belimbing Sari, T: 0361 848 2166, www. alilahotels.com/uluwatu) is an informative and magical sevenhour opportunity to follow in the footsteps of Dang Hyang Nirartha, an important Hindu priest in the 15th century. Guests are provided with full Balinese dress, transport and refreshments, and the privilege of access to five of the holiest and lesservisited temples on the island, some of which do not normally open their gates to regular tourist visitors and are usually reserved for only very holy ceremonies and festivals. The journey culminates at Balangan Beach with a sunset picnic. An excellent cultural excursion. (P:175, ref:C3) Exofly (Timbis Beach, T: 0811 393 919, www.exofly. com) offer paragliding from the cliff, 80 metres above the beach. Tandem flights can be arranged with professional instructors. (P:175, ref:C3) Ganesha Gallery (Four Seasons Resort Bali, Jimbaran Bay, T: 0361 701 010) holds regular exhibitions by different local and 182

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international artists, based on the artist’s vision of Bali. (P:177, ref:A7) Jenggala Keramik (Jimbaran, T: 0361 703 310) encourages adults and children to explore their creativity in ceramic handpainting sessions. A two-session course offers an introduction to the pleasures of handling clay and creating your very own unique ceramic piece to take home. Classes are held daily and advance bookings recommended. (P:177, ref:B7)

Pura Luhur Uluwatu is spectacular at sunset. This 11th century temple is balanced on the edge of a narrow rocky cape, 70 metres above the crashing surf. A Kecak Dance performance takes place daily at 6pm. Tickets can be purchased at the entrance to the temple or from your tour operator. (P:175, ref:A3)

l Rapture Surf Camp (Jl Labuhan Sait, Pantai Bingin, T: 0813 3757 8261, www.rapturecamps. com) offer guided lessons for all levels in the nearby surf of Bingin, Impossibles, Dreamland, Balangan and Padang Padang (if you’re game!) - excellent, safe fun. (P:175, ref:B2) Xante Gallery is a charming little gallery showcasing the work of figurative painter Xante Gabriela. The works have mainly spiritual and natural themes and include oil on canvas and mono-prints. (P:177, ref:A7)

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Fanning a Bingin lip in style (courtesy of Rapture Surf Camp)

(i) keyinfo

traditional dances

The Legong Dance is the most refined of all the temple dances, a quintessential display of Balinese grace and femininity performed by three pre-pubescent girls. The Kecak Dance is a spectacular performance that involves a chorus of bare-chested men wearing lengths of black and white poleng cloth around their waists. Sitting in a circle, the actors play the role of both the acappella choir and the props as they provide a nonstop musical accompaniment, in the form of hypnotic vocal chants. A Barong Dance portrays the eternal fight between good and evil. Serving as an exorcism of black magic, the Balinese hold this dance sacred to their religion and culture. The players are the Barong Keket, a shaggy lion-like creature propelled by two men; and Rangda, the hideous and evil widow-witch. The Joged Bumbung is an exclusively secular dance, in which a brightly dressed female dancer invites men from the audience to dance with her in the pretence of seduction.

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Mighty Mount Rinjani (Foued Kadachi)

www.theislandkey.com introduction Lombok, Bali’s beautiful next-door neighbour, rarely receives the attention it deserves. Although there are only thirty five kilometres of sea between these two islands, the physical and cultural distinctions are considerable. Towering mountains, mighty waterfalls, pristine white-sand beaches, magnificent coral reefs, pearl encrusted shores, a unique Sasak culture and tranquility are among Lombok’s many charms. In general, Lombok entices the more adventurous travellers who have, perhaps, already explored Bali and are hungry to journey further afield. The island is also a haven for those who are in search of peace and quiet. If this image appeals, you are advised to go there soon. Land development, especially in the south, is happening fast; a Dubai-based business group has pledged a USD 800 million tourism investment, and construction of an international airport, capable of handling wide-bodied aircraft, is planned to be finished in 2009, with the aim to be fully operational by 2010. With this new airport 184

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keyshortcuts Get to Lombok quickly and safely by boat and air (see page 185 for getting there recommendations) Tropical beach paradise is a stone’s throw from Bali, find out where (see page 188 for beach life recommendations) Catch some uncrowded breaks at Lombok’s best waves (see page 188 for surfing recommendations) There’s a host of accommodation for everyone (see page 198 for accommodation recommendations) Trek the famous Mt Rinjani or tee off in paradise (see page 202 for activities)

planes will be able to land directly from Europe, Australia or other Asian countries. New roads are being built, old roads are being widened, one-way systems and roundabouts are being implemented, street lighting is being installed and water mains are being extended. A visit to Lombok is still an opportunity to explore a natural paradise, trek the Rinjani National Park, enjoy some fantastic diving, and encounter a traditional, rural way of life exposing a fascinating integration of Muslim and Hindu cultures. It is a misconception to view Lombok as the Bali of twenty years ago; comparisons are inevitable but contrasts are marked and the two islands differ in almost every respect. getting there There are about five flights per day from Bali; to Mataram, Lombok, with Trans Nusa (0361 847 7395, 0370 624 555), Merpati airlines ( 0370 621 111) Garuda Indonesia (080 4180 7807) and Indonesia Air Transport (0361 759 768). The return airfare ranges from IDR 798,000 to IDR 1,350,000, and the flight takes just twenty-five minutes. There are also regular daily services from Jakarta, Surabaya and Singapore. l Blue Water Express (Pelabuhan Benoa Marina, T: 0361

723 479, www.bwsbali.com), operated by Blue Water Safaris, is another daily fast boat facility departing from Benoa Harbour (15 minutes from Kuta) to Gili Trawangan and Teluk Kodek, also via Nusa Lembongan. A hotel pick up service is also provided. Total travel time is less than three hours and is priced at IDR 690,000 oneway. l Gili Cat Island Express (T: 0361 271 680, www.gilicat.com) operates daily from Padang Bai to Gili Trawangan and Teluk Kodek. The Padang Bai start is great for people travelling from Ubud, and while it may be a little bit further for visitors travelling from the south, the journey includes road transport to and from the Kuta area. The crossing takes an estimated eighty minutes. The price is IDR 660,000 one-way. l The Island Getaway service (T: 0361 878 5892, www.islandgetaway.com) also operates from Benoaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Indo Nusa facility and is the only boat with individual seating and that serves Gili Air direct. l The Mahi Mahi fun fast boat (T: 0361 877 6599, m a h i m a h i fu n b o a t @ g m a i l. c o m ) also runs daily from Benoaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Indo Nusa facility with a slightly later departure and is the only purpose built aluminium boat with a spacious saloon and cushioned fly deck. lombok

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air p.244 meno p.238

Akar

trawangan p.208 GONDANG GILI ISLANDS

LOMBOK STRAIT

Gili Trawangan Gili Meno

TANJUNG

Gili Air Sire Beach WR H Bangsal Harbour

Teluk Kodek

Hotel Tugu Lombok A Golf Kosaido Pemenang

Malimbu Klui

noa

e to b

Sidemen Pusuk

Mt. Tampole 1080 m

Palm Sugar Production

Krandang

ali

ai b

ng b

ada

to p

Monkey Forest Mangsit

n ba

ga eran

Tlutej Waterf

Tiu Pupas Waterfall

H The Oberoi

Mt. Pun 1490

KR,Bayan

SENGGIGI

senggigi p.189

Gunung Sari

Batu Bolong

Endut

Lingsar Ampenan

Cakranegara

MATARAM

Sedau

Narmada Sweta

to pad

Kediri

ang b

ai bali

Puyung

Banyumulek

Gili Pom Gili Nangu Gili Anyaran Gili Sudak Gili Lontar Gili Tangkong Gili Genting

Gili Rengit Gili Layar

Gili Gede

Gili Asahan

A Dive Zone

Suk

LEMBAR

H Sundancer

H Secret Island Resort

Sekotong Barat

Bangko Bangko

Mt. Jageg 356 m

Sekotong Tengah Labuan

Pelangan

Mt. Tukdaponggod 418 m

Scale 1 : 20.000

2,5

7,5 10km

Sepi

Scenen

Selong Bla Pengantar

LB Carik

Gili Lawang

Selangan Tepeloang

Bayan

r akar

Obel obel Batu kok

Sludang Waterfall

DS. Kembar

Sandongan Mt. Prigi 1632 m

Mt. Daya 2914 m

Mt. Patujang 1924 m

Sambelia

Rinjani A Trek Center

ja fall

Gili Sulat

Belating

Sludang Gile

LB Pandan

Sembalun Lawang Sembalun Bumbung

Mt. RInjani 3726 m

Lake Segara Anak

Lemor

Mt. Pusuk 2330 m Mt. Kondo 2947 m

Gili Pentangan Sapit

lombok

Mt. Limanuk

Gili Pasaran Labuhan Lombok

Gili Lampu

Timbanuh

nikan 0m

Jeruk Manis Waterfall

Sesaot

Pohgading Tetebatu

Nyurbaya Suranadi

Aik Bukak

Pringgasela

to la

Aikmel Wanasaba

Lenek

Kotaraja

Anyan Lonyok

Mantang

ba wa

Rempung Masgabik

Sikur

Kopang Terara

SELONG Tanjuk Teros Pancor Sakra

PRAYA

Beleke

Labuhan Haji Mantong Meong Rambang

karara Mujur

Keruak Ganti

Batujai

Tanjung Luar Jerowana

Penunjak

Batu Nampar

Pujut

T. Aan

Mangkung

Tanjung Runggit Bumbang

Rambitan Grupuk

Sengkol

KUTA

anak

Mawun

Ekas Bay

H Ocean Heaven H Heaven on the Planet

H Novotel

Lombok Surf Camp

ALAS STRAIT

l The Black Pearl operated by Blue Water Cruises (T: 0817 343 168, www.bluewatercruises. com) is another fast boat service from Serangan harbour in south Bali to Gili Trawangan and Teluk Kodek on mainland Lombok with personalised door to beach boat transfers (IDR 680,000). The Blue Water Cruises fleet and the Phinisi schooner Jaya live aboard. Both offer day trips and charters to Sumbawa, Moyo, the Sunda islands and Komodo and Flores. There is also the public ferry that departs daily from Padang Bai in Bali to Lembar in Lombok and vice versa. The service departs every hour on the hour, and the journey takes approximately five hours.

beach life The beaches in Lombok are beautiful. The spectacular Senggigi coast presents sweeping bays and towering headlands. Cape Senggigi is a spur of land bordered by a broad white ribbon of beach with eye-boggling views that extend all the way over to Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sacred Mt Agung. To the south of Senggigi is the Balinese Batu Bolong Temple, meaning hollow rock. It juts out to sea, straddling an archway in the rock where, according to legend, 188

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beautiful virgins were once thrown to their fate. Pantai Sire, in the northwest, is the longest white-sand beach on the island and a snorkeling destination, complete with tall, swaying palm trees and crystal waters. Some of Lombokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most spectacular coastal scenery can be found on the southern shores of the island around Kuta - a small fishing village that presents a very different picture to its celebrated namesake in Bali. Headlands and awesome rocky outcrops separate windswept sandy beaches and picturesque bays. The glorious crescent-shaped beaches of Kuta and Tanjung Aan are famous for their surf breaks. When the tide is out, the bays turn into shallow pools of turquoise water. the surf Surfers will discover Lombok to be rewarding beyond all expectations. It is far less crowded than Bali and it offers a great variety of waves that work on all swell and wind conditions. Although best from May to October, Lombok has surf all year round. Air Guling is a right hand reef break located on the west side of Kuta. A left hander on the other side of the bay is surfable, but only when it is small. Air Guling can hold 8-10ft when perfect, but it is best at 4-6ft. Intermediates. www.theislandkey.com

C to bangsal

B Windy Beach Resort H Holiday Resort Lombok H Blue Marlin Dive A Verve Villas H Qunci Villas H Qunci Pool Villas H Puri Mas Beach Resort H Alang-Alang Resort A H & Blue Marlin Dive

D 1

Puri Mas Village

senggigi

Coco Beach Waroeng R

Puri Saron Hotel H Pacific Beach Cottages H

Sheraton Resort H Lotus Bayview R De Quake R B The Office R B

B Tropicana Club

H Puri Bunga Beach Cottages R Asmara S Supermarket $ BNI ATM

Santosa VIllas & Resort H Lombok Property S

R Square Restaurant

Taman R

4 R Papaya Restaurant S Supermarket S Ciokolata Bar “U” B A Bidy Tour & Dive Zone Lombok Biking Tour A Dream Divers A

House of Pearls S

Happy Cafe B

B Sahara Club

Senggigi Bay

H Maskot Cottages H Pool Villa Club H Senggigi Beach hotel A & Blue Marlin Dive

Lina Cottages H

A Perama Tour & Travel H Hotel Ray B Marina Club

Senggigi Beach

6 $

Cafe Alberto R

to ampenan

Flicker Water Sport A The Beach CLub R Sunset House H Jo-Je Boutique S The Jayakarta H

Desert Point (also known as Bangko Bangko) is located on the southwest coast, offering what is regarded to be the best left hand wave in the world. Long walled and incredibly hollow, it can break up to 300 metres. Barrels of twenty seconds have been filmed here and ten-second tube rides are common. Full or new moon low tides, a southeast wind and a big swell are needed. Suitable for experienced surfers only. Ekas Bay east of Kuta is home to two spots. Outside Ekas is a left-hander that starts working over 5ft and holds up to 10ft, offering huge drops and an open face to carve. Further inside the bay is a fun, walling peak; with a big swell and southeast winds it can offer very long rides and barrels. Intermediates to advanced. Grupuk Bay is seven kilometres east of Kuta and is home to five different surf spots that work on various tide, wind and swell combinations. Waves can only be accessed by boat. All levels. Mawi offers a nice peak with short hollow rights and lefts twenty minutes west of Kuta. The reef breaks at 6ft plus, Mawi transforms into a heaving left barrel, with elevator drops and heavy hold-downs. Advanced. Seger Beach is a right hand reef break, with the occasional 190

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left off the peak located just two kilometres from Kuta. It is a good place when the swell drops, and on mid tides with offshore winds this can be a great spot, with short tubes and bowly walls. Intermediates. diving Dive sites on mainland Lombok are to be found in three main areas - on the very south coast at Kuta, Belongas Bay and Sekotong to the southwest - and are predominantly suitable for enthusiastic and experienced adrenalin fuelled divers. Batu Mandi and Batu Gendang (Sekotong) at `the drum stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; advanced divers will descend to about twenty-five metres and find massive blocks which give the impression of diving in a labyrinth. This is home to white tip reef sharks, Napoleon fish, tunas, jacks and barracudas. Gili Medas (Kuta) is a reef just out front of Kuta bay that starts at thirteen metres and bottoms out at thirty-four metres, offering a great variety of reef fish such as sweetlips, surgeon fish, eagle rays and colourful nudibranchs. The Magnet (Belongas Bay) is for experienced divers only as the down currents are both unpredictable and fierce. The descent starts at twelve metres at a pinnacle that rises www.theislandkey.com

191 Sunset journeyman (David Burden)

from the ocean floor some eighty metres in depth. Adventurous divers can expect to see big fish action all around with schools of mackerel, rainbow runners, tuna and, in season, hundreds of schooling hammerhead sharks. Sunken Island (Sekotong) is very popular for relaxed and colourful diving on this soft slope. Around the deeper coral blocks divers can expect to find groupers, batfish, trumpet fish and the bearded scorpion fish. dive centres Dive centres are limited on mainland Lombok and are to be found only in Kuta, Belongas Bay and Senggigi. Each centre has its own boats to access the offshore dive sites and all have English-speaking staff who are all knowledgeable and experienced. Blue Marlin Dive (Senggigi, T: 0370 693 719, www.bluemarlindive. com) and also located at the Holiday resort, Alang Alang hotel and the Sengigi beach resort, is the Lombok sister branch to the centres on the Gilis and offers trips to all the popular mainland dive spots as well as all the dive sites in and around the Gili islands. (P:189, ref:B2, B5) Divezone (Belongas Bay, T: 0370 660 3205, www.divezonelombok.com) are the only dive operator situated in the south of Lombok with 192

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access to the dive sites in the local region. Dream Divers (Senggigi, T: 0370 693 738, www.dreamdivers. com) is located on the main street and offers daily transport services from local hotels to the dive sites both on mainland Lombok and the Gilis. (P:189, ref:C5)

shopping & style If you want to go shopping, don’t look for modern malls and designer clothing because there is very little on offer. Instead seek out the local products - arts, handicrafts, basketry, pottery, Sasak sarongs, textiles and pearls. If you must visit a shopping mall, go to the air-conditioned Mataram Mall, but don’t get excited; it is only suitable for standard shopping and groceries. There are two international fast food outlets - KFC and McDonald’s (the only ones in Lombok), a Tiara department store, and Hero’s supermarket as well as ATM machines. High quality South Sea pearls are harvested in farms within Lombok’s clean coastal waters. Specialist retail outlets on Sultan Kaharudin Street in Sekarbela, near Mataram, stock a huge selection of beautiful loose pearls, strands, hanks and strings of many colours, together with pearl clustered pieces of gold jewellery. Sweta’s `Bertais www.theislandkey.com

Finding Nemo (James White)

Marketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; sells everything that is made or produced on the island, including the intricate basket ware for which Lombok is renowned. Fashioned from rattan, cane, banana leaf, coconut palm leaf, ata grass, bamboo and lontar palm, the products range from huge flat disks and large urns, to smaller pot-shaped receptacles, box handbags, sachets, cartons, envelopes, shopping bags, and bulbous baskets, garnished with beads, shells and hand-carved wooden lids. Banyumulek, six kilometres south of Mataram is one of the three main pottery centres on the island. The distinctive pots, plates, saucers, bowls and goblets are decorated and engraved in unique, traditional designs with paints and textiles. wellbeing There are far fewer spas in Lombok than in Bali (for the timebeing) and the choice is limited to the often sumptuous hotel spas, or the much more humble spas and salons where the local women come for their beauty treatments, traditional remedies and healing therapies. l Puri Mas Boutique Resort â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Spa (Mangsit Beach, T: 0370 693 831, www.purimas-lombok. com) is nestled between the hills of the valley. In a park-like setting of lush tropical plants, fragrant flowers 194

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and swaying palm trees you will find the luxury spa. Here guests can completely relax surrounded by large butterflies and song birds completely immersed in this tropical paradise. The experienced Puri Mas spa staff will share their knowledge of local traditions in massage and body care, using traditional herbs, spices and quality oils of the region. (P:189, ref:B1)

l The Spa (Hotel Tugu Lombok, Sire Beach, T: 0370 620 111, www.tuguhotels.com) incorporates indoor and outdoor massage areas, a meditation room showcasing ancient Buddhist artefacts, a Jacuzzi and a fresh water pool guarded by the four statues of the God Bhairawa. Overlooking the ocean and Mt Rinjani, the spa utilises organic herbs and spices from the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interior. Special spa trips are often arranged to the nearby waterfalls. Yoga and meditation is also available. Spa (The Oberoi, Sire Beach T: 0370 638 444, www.oberoihotels. com) offers a wide range of massages, facials, herbal baths and body treatments including scrubs and wraps in private pavilions. There is also a gym, beauty salon, sauna and steam rooms. Yoga takes place beside the ocean terrace with a stunning view out across the ocean towards the Gili islands and further to Mount Agung in Bali, an incredible spa experience.

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the bar & club scene Nightlife on mainland Lombok is very limited and if you’re really looking to party you should visit the nearby island of Gili Trawangan. Nevertheless, there is a social scene in Senggigi, which presents a few bars, pubs, clubs and live music. Gossip (Senggigi, T: 0370 693 432) is one of the area’s more popular nightclubs with pricey drinks, and a cover charge to enter. Marina Pub (Senggigi, T: 0370 693 136) presents live music performed by local bands and is popular with the hometown boys. (P:189, ref:D6) The Office (T: 0370 693 842) offers Indonesian, Western and Indian food at reasonable prices and has a billiards table right on the beachfront. (P:189, ref:B3) Papaya (Senggigi, T: 0370 693 616) is a popular bar serving cheap drinks with commercial music and some live bands. (P:189, ref:C4) l Puri Mas Lounge Bar (Mangsit Beach, T: 0370 693 831, www.purimas-lombok.com) the Sunset Beach Restaurant and lounge bar is open to hotel guests and outside guests who wish to get away from the hustle and bustle of the Senggigi beach area and chill out besides the ocean. Here you can enjoy some fine dining close to 196

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town as you gaze across the Lombok Strait, to a perfect sunset beside Mount Agung in Bali. (P:189, ref:C1) Square Restaurant and Lounge (Senggigi, T: 0370 6645 999) has a chill-out lounge upstairs with a red décor, subdued lighting, great music and a sophisticated ambience. (P:189, ref:C4) dining out Lombok visitors won’t find much in the way of independent international restaurants on the island, apart from in the Senggigi area where there is plentiful choice to suit most budgets. Asmara (Senggigi, T: 0370 693 619) serves a mix of international cuisines and is very popular with return tourists to Lombok. The restaurant runs a pick up and drop off service in the Senggigi area. (P:189, ref:B3) Cafe Alberto (Senggigi, T: 0370 693 039, www.cafealberto. com) offers an Italian beachside restaurant experience serving deliciously fresh seafood, an oriental selection, wood oven pizzas and a barbeque on the beach. (P:189, ref:D6)

De Quake (Senggigi art market, T: 0370 693 694) is a very well appointed open air lounge and restaurant with great views over the Senggigi bay offering unmatched sunset views. The restaurant serves www.theislandkey.com

Indonesian and Asian cuisine with fresh seafood and meats alongside a wide variety of local produce and locally grown herbs and spices. The service is pleasant and the place is often referred to as `a hidden secretâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. (P:189, ref:B3)

The Empat Ikan (Novotel Lombok, Kuta, T: 0370 653 333) is set romantically by the shoreline and offers French cordon bleu cuisine. Square Restaurant and Lounge (Senggigi, T: 0370 6645 999) is a little bit expensive compared to other restaurants in the area, but the service and food is generally good. (P:189, ref:C4) Sheraton Senggigi Beach Resort (Senggigi, T: 0370 693 333) offers themed buffet and beachfront barbeques, delicious fare prepared with skill accompanied by traditional entertainment in a relaxed and casual environment. (P:189, ref:B3)

l Hotel Tugu Lombok (Sire Beach, T: 0370 620 111, www. tuguhotels.com) offers an incredible setting where guests can dine anywhere they like including the beach and the gardens. Instead of presenting restaurants, the hotel itself becomes a choice of unique and authentic dining experiences, each following a historical theme, complemented by the ambience, venue, cuisine, costumes, tableware and traditional rituals.

accommodation In Lombok, simple accommodation mingles with large family hotels, mainly in the Senggigi area. The Tanjung and Sire Beach areas on the northwest coast are home to two stunning boutique hotels: The Oberoi Lombok, and Tugu Lombok, while Kuta, in the south, offers surfer accommodation and the funky Novotel Lombok. The Beach Club Senggigi (Senggigi, T: 0370 693 637, www. thebeachclublombok.com) has backpacker to mid range beachfront bungalows with air conditioning, TV and DVD facilities. Relax on the traditional Berugak with Sheesha for company and enjoy the free WiFi Internet connection. Ebano R&R Bungalows (Senggigi, T: 0370 693 898, ebano.r.r@telkom.net) is around seven and a half kilometres north of Senggigi and is home to 26 bungalows set in 2.5ha of natural space. The bungalows are a nature loversâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; dream and are also for sale for those interested in making an investment in Lombok before the tourism starts to really take off. Heaven on the Planet (Ekas Bay, T: 0812 375 1103, www. heavenontheplanet.co.nz) is a special eco resort in a world class setting. The resort operates on a package basis including transport, accommodation lombok

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and all meals and is conveniently situated in proximity to the surf, kiting, snorkelling and diving spots for which the south of Lombok is famous. Staying guests can participate in voluntary conservation and community development programs; divers and snorkellers can help save the coral reefs in the offshore artificial reef project and also improve drinking water through solar desalination and the replanting of saplings for sustainable logging in the future. Hotel Crocodile River Cottage (Senggigi, T: 0370 662 9000, www.lombok-cottages.com) is located only ten minutes from the airport on the shore of the river Meninting, and features unique twostorey wooden bungalows, each with a terrace and private balcony. l The Jayakarta (Senggigi, T: 0370 693 045, lombok@ jayakartahotelsresorts.com) is located right on Meninting Beach at Senggigi. The hotel is just a ten minute drive from the capital Mataramâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Selaparang airport and fortry fiveminutes from Lembar harbour for the ferry to Bali. Altogether the resort has 171 rooms in their expanded 4 storey new wing, plus an additional 95 rooms including 12 Junior Suites, which overlook the pool and ocean with private balcony, wooden floor, living room and kitchenette. On the other side of the resort is a small collection of two storey cottages with 198

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four Jayakarta Suites, which feature private balconies and living room facilities. The family friendly nature of this resort makes it very popular with visiting Europeans and Australians as well as the domestic guests. (P:189, ref:D7)

Novotel Lombok (Kuta, T: 0370 653 333, www.novotellombok.com) is decorated in faded desert colours with a range of designer cottages and regular rooms. The eccentric fairytale architecture draws its inspiration from a traditional Sasak village. The Oberoi Lombok (The Oberoi, T: 0370 638 444, www. oberoihotels.com) is one of the pioneering luxury hotel resorts in Lombok and is still an incredibly popular destination for visitors to the mainland. A hideaway with acres of tropical gardens, shimmering ocean and golden sands along a private beach. Lush rainforests, sparkling blue ocean views and beautiful beaches accompany visitors as they arrive at this idyllic garden resort. The Oberoi, Lombok, has an intimate ambience, with thatched-roof villas and terraced pavilions dotting 24 acres of tropical gardens. A variety of accommodation options range from Luxury Pavillions to the Royal Villa with pool. The Oberoi Lombok boasts a top level spa, three restaurants and The Tokek Bar that promises visitors dreamy cocktail creations as the sun slips over distant Bali. www.theislandkey.com

Lombok tobacco plantations (David Burden)

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Ocean Heaven (Ekas Bay, T: 0812 375 1103, www. heavenontheplanet.co.nz) sits amongst the palm trees at the entrance to Ekas Bay in a remote and pristine location with five chalets for up to fifteen guests. The white sand beach, fossil cliffs and pristine reefs are untouched by modern development whilst the rich red sunsets of Ekas Bay are stunning. Puri Bunga (Senggigi, 0370 693 013, www.puribungalombok. com) have a collection of rustic cottages, each offering beautiful views over the Lombok Straits. (P:189, ref:B3)

l Puri Mas Boutique Resort (Senggigi, T: 0370 693 831, www. purimas-lombok.com) is situated on the beautiful Lombok coastline among the traditional homes of the local people, it is hard to imagine you are just thirty minutes away from Lombok Airport and only a short car ride or walk from the beautiful Puri Mas Boutique Beach Resort and tourist centre of Senggigi. To reach the Puri Mas Village & Spa visitors are driven through the local villages and greeted by the smiling faces of the gentle local people along the way. The hotel comprises of a small collection of thatched bungalows, rooms and suites set on the beach. Puri Mas Boutique Resorts & Spa have recently opened their one bedroom Private Pool Villas. These luxury one bedroom villas are 200

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situated in Puri Mas Ocean Villa on the unspoilt beach in Mangsit Bay Lombok. (P:189, ref:B1) l Puri Mas Village & Spa (Mangsit, T: 0370 693 596, www. purimas-lombok.com) is a small collection of diverse villas, furnished with antiques, and grouped around an exotic swimming pool. This unique property is set against a dramatic backdrop of jungle-clad hills and features a wellness retreat that incorporates traditional therapies and natural remedies. (P:189, ref:C1) Quinci Villas (Mangsit Beach, T: 0370 693 800, www. quincivillas,com) is a small resort with charming rooms and bungalows set in a tropical sunken garden. A swimming pool faces out onto the ocean and the restaurant serves good international and Indonesian cuisine. (P:189, ref:B1)

Secret Island Resort (Gili Gede, T: 0818 0376 2001, secretislandresort@xl.blackberry. com) have cottages, a private two bedroom villa and bungalows on the hillside connecting to a private dock especially good for yacht owners. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a well-stocked bar, hot tub, billiards table and a wealth of water based activities including kayaking and snorkelling to keep guests occupied on this idyllic islet. Sheraton Senggigi Beach Resort (Senggigi, T: 0370 693 333, www.sheraton.com/senggigi) offers www.theislandkey.com

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a great range of facilities for adults and children, with rooms, suites and villas, including beachfront villas with private pools. The resort also hosts two outdoor tennis courts as well as two well-appointed restaurants and bars. (P:189, ref:B3) l Hotel Tugu Lombok (Sire Beach, T: 0370 620 111, www. tuguhotels.com) is luxurious, romantic and atmospheric; the hotel is a living, breathing museum, showcasing Indonesian antiques and beautiful artworks. Stunning international and local Indonesian cuisines are served in the two dining areas, a beautiful spa temple and exquisite service make Tugu Lombok a must visit. activities Things to do in Lombok include outdoor activities such as surfing, snorkelling, diving, golf, hiking, visiting majestic waterfalls and trekking Mt Rinjani. The island also offers the chance to witness the traditional artisans at work, including potters and weavers, as well as experiencing the colourful local cultures, which can be found in the markets, villages, and at the Sasak and Hindu ceremonies and celebrations. Central Lombok is dominated by the towering Mt Rinjani. At 3726 metres high, this mighty volcano boasts the second 202

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highest peak in Indonesia and was believed to be dormant until late 1994 when Gunung Baru, in the crater, erupted. It is one of the most revered and feared summits in the country, yet the challenge of trekking up its arduous slopes to Segara Anak, the breathtaking crater lake, is one of the main reasons why visitors come to Lombok. The pretty mountain village of Senaru, gateway to the Gunung Rinjani National Park, offers a gentle walk along the river valley to two beautiful waterfalls, the forty metre, tiered waterfall and natural spring known as Sindang Gila, and the breathtaking Tiu Kelep, a magnificent double waterfall dominated by a projectile jet of pure white energy, its backdrop a broad curtain of tumbling, foaming water lined with saturated moss and green vines. At the base of the falls is a deep pool. If you feel like having a dip in the refreshingly cool water, you should allow yourself to drift in a circle behind the main waterfall. It is believed to be blessed with youthenhancing properties and, according to local legend, each time you encircle it, you will emerge one year younger! A trip to Lombok wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be complete without visiting one of the traditional weaving villages to witness the production of the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s striking hand-woven textiles. The fabrics are www.theislandkey.com

made on manually operated back strap looms, with the loom being supported by the weaver as she leans back to maintain the tension of the threads. In the villages visitors can watch the entire process of cloth making. Fabrics are produced for sarongs, fringed scarves, tablecloths and cushion covers, with motifs, textures and patterns often woven into the cloth. Villages specialising in cloth-weaving are Sukarara, Pringgasela, Rambitan/Sade and Sembalun. Likewise, Penujak, Banyumulek and Masbagik are the three main pottery villages in Lombok, each with their own distinct styles and methods. Lombok Biking Tour (Jl Senggigi, T: 0370 692 164, www. lombokbiking.com) arranges a number of guided tours to fit your individual interests and needs. All are guaranteed to provide you with a fun and easy-going way to discover the beauty of `Hidden Lombokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. (P:189, ref:C5)

Lombok Golf Kosaido Country Club (Sire Beach, T: 0370 640 137) offers a unique, challenging and world-class golf experience. The course design gracefully complements the natural contours of the land down to the beach where golfers arriving by boat can pull up to hole four then take a buggy up to the country club to tee 204

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off. The course is rarely busy so enjoy taking your time around the fairways without the pressure of having lots of players waiting behind. l Lombok Surf Camp (Grupuk bay, www.surfcamp.se/ en) offers professional tuition for the total beginner with a recomended two week all inclusive course that will teach you the skills of paddling, water safety, weather forecasts, catching the waves, standing up and turning, wave knowledge and surf ethics. Courses are conducted in the classroom and on the consistent waves in the bay directly accessible by the campâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fleet of boats. Experienced surfers will also find this an excellent base, with amazing traditional accommodation, three luxury villas, breakfast, lunch and dinners included. All lessons are with certified instructors, all equipment is new, all at very reasonable prices and also a lot of fun! Rinjani Trek Ecotourism Programme (Mataram. T: 081 139 0047 or 632 305 ext 1407) is located in Senaru-Bayan, this is where all programmes start. Trekking includes porters and guides and depending on your goal, in two days you can reach the rim or 3/4 days hiking will take you to the amazing inner lake - weather permitting. The hike is quite demanding and trekkers should be confident of their fitness levels before making the ascent. www.theislandkey.com

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In Lombok, especially away from the Gili islands and outside of the tourist areas, conservative dress is a sign of courtesy. Visitors should take off their shoes before going into a mosque, and cover up shoulders, arms and legs. Women should cover their heads with a scarf, and must not enter a mosque when menstruating. Open consumption of alcohol is generally frowned upon and even a beer (at room temperature) is impossible to find in the more remote parts of the island. Those who are fond of a drink will find plenty of alcohol openly available in the bars and clubs of Senggigi. Flagrant displays of romance are considered distasteful. Do be sensitive to where you are travelling at all times. Lombok is a beautiful place to visit but as with any remote `off the beaten trackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; destination, common sense and a basic understanding of your hostâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cultural sensibilities will stand you in good stead for a safe and enjoyable experience. lombok

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introduction Just a short two hour boat trip from Bali are the Gili Islands of Trawangan, Meno and Air. The largest of the three islands, Gili Trawangan, is around thirty minutes boat ride from the northwest mainland of Lombok and attracts the majority of visitors. The beaches of the Gilis are still powdery white, the water a beautiful clear blue and they are positioned perfectly for sunsets over Bali’s Mt Agung and sunrise over Lombok’s Mt Rinjani. Thirty years ago the islands were uninhabited and only discovered by the seafaring Bugis people from Sulawesi. It was only a matter of time before the more adventurous backpacker types discovered the islands and developed Trawangan into a hippy party paradise. Gili Trawangan now identifies itself as a great destination suitable for families of all ages. Various new hotels, luxury villas, and boutique bungalows now cater to children and offer good value. Some have baby-sitting services, and with lots of activities 208

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keyshortcuts Discover that the Gilis really are next door (see page 210 for getting there recommendations) Dive the pristine waters surrounding Gili Trawangan (see page 212 for diving recommendations) Join the party at the island’s most popular bars (see page 220 for bar & club recommendations) Crash out in the pick of the island’s accommodation (see page 226 for accommodation recommendations)

Halik Reef

1 Goodheart

Melati Store S Coral Beach R H

Shark Point Baruna Villas H Trawa ngan Oasis Kelap a Villa s Luce D’alm a

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R H Villa Alamrik H Goodheart Bungalows H Balé Sampan H Samba Villas H Dream Village A R Dino Cafe / turtle hatchery H Ozzy Homestay A R H Trawangan Dive H Kelapa Kecil R Cafe Wayan B R H Horizontal A Island Getaway S Hazy Days R Rechi Living Room Kepala Desa R Wrap A Snapper Office H Snapper Bungalows R Juku Harbour A Blue Water Offfice A Harbour Ticket Offfice R Manta Cafe A H Manta Dive H Sama - Sama Bungalows R Coco Cafe A Perama Office A Tara Internet A Gili Cat Island Express H H A Creative Internet H H

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A R H Dream Divers R H Pesona Resort H Sandy Beach A H Big Bubble

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Malino H Alex H Eky H Iwan H Edy H Melati H Black Sands H

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on the islands families are sure to enjoy their holidays to the full. Unique to the Gilis all forms of motorised transport are still not allowed - meaning the only way to get around is on foot, by bicycle and in pony carts known as Cidomos. One sign of change is the recent introduction of the only ATM machine on the three Gili islands to be found at Hotel Vila Ombak. getting there Regular daily fast boats depart Bali directly to The Gili islands and all boats stop off at Teluk Nare on mainland Lombok as part of the return journey back to Bali. l Bluewater Express (Pelabuhan Benoa Marina, T: 0361 723 479, www.bwsbali.com) operates a fleet of boats from Benoa in south Bali and is the only service to link Nusa Lembongan with Bali and the Gilis. Get 2 islands for the price of one at IDR 690,000. (P:209, ref:C3) l Gili Cat Island Express (T: 0361 271 680, www. gilicat.com) has 2 boats and departs from Padang Bai in the east of Bali and is the only boat to operate twice daily with an afternoon crossing also, priced at IDR 660,000. (P:209, ref:C4) l Island Getaway (Nusa Indah Benoa, T: 0361 878 5892, www. island-getaway.com) is a 24 seater vessel with a reliable service and is the only fast boat which has a direct 210

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service that also stops directly at Gili Air, price IDR 680,000. (P:209, ref:C2) l Mahi Mahi (T: 0361 877 6599, mahimahifunboat@gmail. com) is a purpose built aluminium vessel with 24 passenger capacity with inside large spacious saloon area and cushioned fly deck, price IDR 650,000. l The Black Pearl is operated by Blue Water Cruises (T: 0817 343 168, www.bluewatercruises. com) and has a fast boat from Serangan harbour in South Bali, priced at IDR 680,000 offering a luxurious crossing, which also services their Lombok fleet of Phinisi liveaboards. (P:209, ref:D6) All boat operators provide a `door to beach’ service, including hotel pick up, offer return fare discounts and are efficient and reliable. For those who don’t possess sea legs, a short twenty-minute domestic flight is recommended. Flights leave daily in the morning and afternoon to Mataram, Lombok and can be booked directly through Island Promotions travel agency who specialise in Gili tourism (Gang Poppies One, T: 0361 753 241, www.giliparadise.com). Perama (Jl Legian, T: 0361 751 551, www.peramatour.com) offer a shuttle bus from all major tourist locations in Bali and a traditional `Phinisi’ wooden schooner www.theislandkey.com

for the crossing from Padang Bai to The Gilis, priced at IDR 350,000. Total travel time is around eight hours. (P:209, ref:C3) Public boats leave from Bangsal in Lombok to Trawangan from 07.00am to 16.30pm and have a fixed price of IDR 12,000, boats leave when they are full. If there are empty seats you can buy the remaining tickets and the boat will leave. Don’t be surprised if a few locals jump on for free though! Alternatively you can just simply charter a boat for IDR 195,000. Please make sure to buy your tickets in the official concrete ‘Koperasi Karya Bahari’ building located on the beachfront on the left. Do not buy tickets from along the stalls in the street, do not leave your belongings unattended and if someone offers to carry your bag, they expect a fee for doing so! beach life It’s possible to follow the beach around the perimeter of the island in around two hours on foot. The most popular stretches of beach are `Goodheart’ (the main stretch) and `North Beach’ where the best snorkelling is to be found. All dive centres and many shack operations lining the beaches rent snorkelling equipment for around IDR 50,000 for half a day. Hawkers are not so 212

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much of an issue on Gili Trawangan as in Bali; you’re likely to attract a friendly conversation from the locals rather than a hardcore sales pitch. Sarongs, flip-flops and swimwear are all available along the paved beach road and beach `survival’ kits can be purchased from the Hazy Days shop. Beware of strong currents and do not attempt to swim between any of the islands. A good way to round off a beach day is to catch sunset at Karma Kayak on `North Beach’ with jugs of Sangria and fresh Tapas on hand. diving With over twenty-five dive sites surrounding all three islands there are opportunities to dive any of the Gilis regardless of where you base yourself. Most visitors stay on Gili Trawangan for the facilities and make the short hop out to the dive sites. Each dive school has its own fleet of traditional outrigger boats that ferry divers offshore to the walls and reefs where the best diving is to be found. There’s a high standard of multilingual PADI, SSI and TDI certified (both local and foreign) dive instructors and guides working in the centres who have a vast knowledge of the region and know exactly where and when to take visitors to maximise their Gili scuba experience. www.theislandkey.com

Visibility is consistently good all year round with an average distance of thirty metres. Divers can expect to see a range of topography, a large variety of hard and soft corals and a spectacular diversity of marine life unique to Indonesia. The two most popular dive sites are Shark Point and Manta Point where divers can expect to spot black and white tip reef sharks, varieties of turtles, rays and hundreds of indigenous species. There are currently thirty-three biorock structure projects around the Gili islands. Their aim is to create a coral reef and generate marine life around it. Two electrodes are supplied with a low voltage direct current and power the artificial man made steel frame. Electrolytic reactions at the cathode cause minerals naturally present in sea water to build up, in term fuelling the growth of a new natural habitat. At the same time a wide range of organisms on or near the growing substrate are affected by electrochemically-changed conditions, shifting their growth rate dramatically. Stray or loose living corals are carefully collected from nearby destroyed reefs and transplanted onto the structures. They are attached with wires or wedged between steel bars. These coral pieces are quickly cemented into place by growing minerals forming over the structureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 214

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surface. The reefs remain electrically charged to grow and are quite safe to dive. The reef restoration project is only one phase of a bigger overall plan. The timescale of the project is many years as coral grows slowly and releases spores only once a year to repopulate other areas. One of the many benefits of the reef restoration project is that reef fish, schooling fish and many other marine life forms gravitate to the area. It is a fish nursery as well as a coral nursery and therefore becomes an excellent snorkelling and dive site. The locations of the new artificial reefs on Gili Trawangan start in front of Villa Ombak Hotel and are positioned all along the beach front up until Trawangan Dive. They are all in water that is 8 to 16 metres deep, all vary in shape and size from tunnels to domes and swim throughs. Halik Reef is a steep slope on the north side of Gili Trawangan from five metres down to twenty-four metres with a series of gullies at the bottom. A fine site to multi level dive, the large selection of soft corals in the deeper section gives way to hard corals as divers ascend. Every full moon Halik becomes a favourite hangout for a school of gigantic bumphead parrot fish. Manta Point (as the name may suggest) is a gentle sloping reef on the south side of Gili Trawangan www.theislandkey.com

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with a good variety of hard and soft corals, interspersed with bombies and large table corals that shelter the fish. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rarely any current here, and is therefore an excellent site to get close up with reef sharks, stingrays, cuttlefish, octopi and seasonal Manta rays. Shark Point located on the north west of Gili Trawangan is suitable for all levels and is an excellent site for viewing larger marine life. A flat sandy bottom turns into a series of progressively deeper canyons that run parallel to the shore. This is probably the most popular site owing to the sheer variety of marine life that can be seen here on a single dive. Reef sharks are to be found basking in the canyons along with tons of turtles feeding on the coral in the shallows. Cuttlefish, stingrays, lionfish and stonefish also make regular appearances. dive centres There are five recommended dive centres lining the main beachfront on Gili Trawangan, all offering either PADI or SSI certified courses from entry level to the most experienced and specialist programs at fixed prices. All dive centres provide accommodation onsite and are a great place to meet some of the expatriates who are lucky enough to call Gili Trawangan home. 218

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l Bali Diving Academy (located at Vila Ombak, T: 0361 270 252, www.scubali.com) offers fun dives in and around the three islands and courses in a fun, family oriented five star beachfront resort. Other Bali Diving Academy centres can also be found in Sanur, Nusa Lembongan, Tulamben and Pemuteran (North Bali). (P:209, ref:D6)

l Big Bubble Diving (T: 0370 625 020, www.bigbubblediving. com) has a team of French speaking instructors but caters to all visitors. Good value mid range accommodation is available behind the dive centre with a large communal swimming pool and volleyball court out front. (P:209, ref:D5) l Blue Marlin Dive (T: 0370 632 424, www.bluemarlindive. com) is the original centre for all their sister branches and is a PADI 5 Star IDC centre and offers courses from the very beginner through to the most advanced technical diving programs available. Good facilities here as well as accommodation, a funky cafĂŠ and nightly barbeques. Party night is Mondays. Blue Marlin also operate live aboard dive trips on the Ikan Baru Phinisi. (P:209, ref:D4)

l Manta Dive (T: 0370 643 649, www.manta-dive.com) has traditional Sasak rice barn bungalows to the rear of the dive

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school that present excellent value in a central location. Eight friendly multi lingual instructors are onsite to lead any level of diver through a wide choice of courses. Manta is a great place to hang out before and after dives, chill out in the hammocks or cool off in the pool. (P:209, ref:C3) l Trawangan Dive (T: 0370 649 220, www.trawangandive. com) sports eight top quality new contemporary villa style chalets at mid range prices. The newly refitted school and restaurant with swimming pool and sunken bar are extremely popular with divers and non-divers alike. (P:209, ref:C2) the bar & club scene Although the original pioneers of the free party scene on Trawangan may well have moved on, the island still retains a lot of bars that transform into mini clubs. The highest concentration of bars can be found in downtown `Central’ and these hot spots host parties on a rotation most nights of the week. l Blue Marlin (T: 0370 632 424, www.bluemarlindive.com) hosts the Monday night `Rave Party’ in their upstairs function room with open air balcony overlooking the pool and beachfront. Resident and international guest DJs spin funky techno and house to an up-for-it crowd all the way through to sunrise. (P:209, ref:D4) 220

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Horizontal (T: 0813 3971 0451) can best be described as a slice of Seminyak relocated to the least expected location on Trawangan. Right amongst the beach shacks sits this sleek bar/restaurant that plays soulful house throughout the day and well into the night. Sunset trips available to it’s sister bar on Meno.(P:209, ref:C2) Rudy’s (located in `Central’) is almost the last remaining bastion of ‘hippy-dom’ surviving on the island. Day glo décor, entertaining bar staff and an eclectic soundtrack mix ruling the airwaves. Just be aware that the cocktails served here are of an `alternative’ nature. (P:209, ref:D5) Sama Sama (T: 0812 3763 650, www.thesamasama.com) is currently the only bar on the island that has nightly live bands and mini Reggae fests making it extremely popular for those reasons alone. There is no cover charge but the drinks prices reflect the cost of hiring live entertainment. (P:209, ref:C3)

l Tir Na Nog/The Irish Bar (T: 0812 3754 778, www. tirnanogbar.com) is all action on Wednesday nights when the Shipwrecked Bar stages their weekly party with an eclectic music policy to suit all tastes. All major sporting events are shown in the inside bar on the big screen. Smaller barugas outside are mini cinemas where guests can watch movies from a choice of over 1000 titles. (P:209, ref:D6)

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dining out Dining on Trawangan used to be fairly limited in selection and quality with many visitors existing on a diet of locally caught fish and Indonesian dishes from the Warung beach cafés. This scene still exists but the advent of Western influences has brought with it an International presence in restaurants across the island. It’s now possible to dine on a variety of cuisines every night of the week. l The Beach House (T: 0370 642 352, www.beachhousegilit. com) is a beachfront bar and restaurant serving hearty breakfasts, gourmet specials and a large variety of freshly grilled seafood. The upstairs sun lounge deck is the perfect spot to enjoy a glass of chilled wine from their large selection in the wine cellar. (P:209,

Juku (located near the jetty) is a laid-back Balinese restaurant where diners can feast in their own private draped baruga. Serves good quality Indonesian and Western dishes. (P:209, ref:C3) l Karma Kayak (T: 0818 0364 0538, www.karmakayak. com) has a great Tapas style restaurant offering a selection of fusion bites, fresh milkshakes and cocktails. A great sunset spot to head to for a jug of freshly made Sangria and a personal barbeque at your table or on the beach leaving guests to cook their dinner exactly the way they like. (P:209, ref:A2)

l Blue Marlin Café (T: 0370 632 424, www.bluemarlindive. com) presents a varied International menu during the day and some of the best selections of grilled seafood on the island in the evenings. Try the salads and Grilled Trevally with one of their fresh juices. (P:209, ref:D4) Coco’s (T:0813 3988 2153) are best known for their illy Italian coffees, delicious home made cakes and freshly filled baguettes. (P:209,

l ko-ko-mo Resort (T: 0370 644 169, www.kokomogilit.com) sample some of Asia’s finest foods and wines under the guidance of well-known Sydney chef and restaurateur, Matthew Blundell, the talented local kitchen team have created delicious delectable feasts of freshly-shucked oysters, beef carpaccio, Australian `Harvey Beef’ tenderloin, Peking duck, Medallions of bamboo lobster, and much more. For dessert, choose from creations including a strawberry dacquoise or their decadent fallen chocolate cake. Specially selected imported fine wines and liqueurs complement your meal and are available from the temperature controlled humidor.

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The Living Room (located near the jetty) is by far no relation to the identically named restaurant in Seminyak. Good honest soul food is on the menu here. Try the rice table Indonesian selection of dishes - perfect for a group of friends, but be sure to order a day in advance. (P:209, ref:C3)

Pesona (T: 0370 623 521, www.pesonaresort.com) have hookah pipes on the Thai-cushioned beachfront with flavoured Indian tobaccos and authentic dishes from all regions of India. Try the rogan josh and the lamb korma here with the full set of condiments and ice cold beers to match! (P:209, ref:D4) l Ryoshi (next to Tir Na Nog, T: 0812 3754 778) is the island’s Japanese restaurant and a must try if you are a sushi or teriyaki fan. The fish is flown in on ice daily from Bali to ensure freshness and quality. Try the naso miso soup, chicken teriyaki and tuna carpaccio. Being the only Japanese restaurant on the island the place fills up very quickly indeed. It’s worth dining early at Ryoshi then heading ten steps next door to The Shipwrecked Bar for post-dinner drinks with one of the island’s liveliest crowds. (P:209, ref:D6) l Scallywags (T: 0370 631 945, www.scallywagsresort.com) presents food from Northern Spain’s Basque region made with fresh organic, locally sourced ingredients. 224

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Check out the pan-seared coral trout with manchego salad and the signature Scallywags tempura sardines drizzled with apple sauce. Scallywags is the only place to find a nightly ‘meat feast’ barbeque with heaps of choice and a help-yourself buffet of side dishes. Pop next door to The Wag Club for a culinary trip to the Far East and some Asian specialities. (P:209, ref:D6) l Tir Na Nog (T: 0812 3754 778, www.tirnanogbar.com) is very popular with everyone and for good reason. The Irish Bar and Restaurant is centred in the hub of the strip in `Central’ serving the famous `Irish Fry’ all day breakfast as well as beef and guinness pies with mash and gravy and some tasty pizzas. (P:209, ref:D6)

l Vila Ombak Restaurant (T: 0370 642 336, www.hotelombak. com) is great for special occasions or a romantic dinner, the International chef will have diners’ mouths watering in no time. Try the Seafood Wrap starter followed by the Chicken Tikka Masala either in the restaurant or at a table on the beach. (P:209, ref:D6) l Wrap A Snapper (T: 0370 624 217) is Gili Trawangan’s famous fish and chip shop, and the best burgers on the island can be found just seconds away at Wrap A Snapper. Dine in, take away or ask for room service delivery. (P:209, ref:B6)

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accommodation The choice of lodging on Gili Trawangan is virtually endless with a wide range of rooms, villas and resorts spread across the island. There’s quite literally something for everybody, whether it be a guesthouse room with a local family, staying onsite at the dive centres or a state of the art villa with every conceivable modern convenience. It’s recommended to book accommodation in advance and essential during the peak summer and winter months as the island’s popularity continues to grow. Alam Gili (T: 0361 974 629, www.alamindahbali.com) from the beach in front of Alam Gili you can see the sun rise over Lombok’s Mt. Rinjani and set behind Bali’s Mt. Agung. A little salt-water jungle pool invites you to cool off after a day in the sun. And under the shade of a tamarind tree, or by quiet candelight by the beach, you can now enjoy the food of Café Wayan while feeling gentle sea breezes at Alam Gili. All of eight rooms have fresh hot and cold water showers and ceiling fan. The deluxe two level bungalow called ‘Suite Fish’ has air-conditioning and is elegantly appointed with ornate carved doors. (P:209, ref:B2) l Balé Sampan (T: 0812 3702 4048, www.balesampanbungalows. com) have six air-conditioned 226

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bungalow villas located on the main beach area. Facilities include hot and cold water, freshwater swimming pool and healthy breakfasts that are worth spending the night for. (P:209, ref:C2)

l The Beach House (T: 0370 642 352, www.beachhousegilit. com) is an innovative and contemporary resort set amidst tropical gardens, facing the sparkling turquoise waters of the Lombok Strait. The resort’s accommodation comprises a four-bedroom private villa with fresh water pool and a pair of two-bedroom private villas with their own freshwater pools. Two pool suites sharing a fresh water plungle pool, and twelve bungalows set in tropical gardens. Additionally, The Beach House provides a range of facilities, including a beachfront resort pool and bar, and a waterfront bar and restaurant serving international cuisine. (P:209, ref:D6) Desa Dunia Beda (T: 0370 641 575, www.desaduniabeda. com ) is remotely located right on the northwest tip of the island far removed from the bar and club scene of Trawangan. The resort is a small collection of exclusively styled wooden stilted Joglos surrounding a spectacular swimming pool. Catering to the luxury visitor many come here to escape the fuss of the more commercial Central strip. (P:209, ref:A3)

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Gili Exotic Villas (T: 0813 3950 9023, www.giliexotic.com) features one of the most unique styles of villa on Gili Trawangan. The villas have been built to a top standard of quality using timber from old phinisi boats, traditional Sasak wooden houses and recycled, centuries old antique wood. Gili Exotic Villas consists of five bedrooms complete with all modern facilities and environmentally-friendly living area and lounge, kitchen, Internet accessibility and onsite staff to cater to guestsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; needs. (P:209, ref:C4) l Gili Villas (T: 0812 3764 780, www.gilivillasindonesia.com) are four luxury two-bedroom villas nestled less than a hundred metres from the beach and nightlife. Each villa has a large plunge pool, fully equipped kitchen, large dining and living areas with satellite television channels, ipod docking station and wireless internet throughout. (P:209, ref:C4) Good Heart Bungalows (T: 0370 630 255) is located directly opposite the beach and is just a short walk from all the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s activities, restaurants and best snorkelling area. Good value for money as the accommodation offers both air-conditioned and fan rooms. Each Lumbung room has an openair bathroom featuring natural stone and the largest of the three Lumbungs has a bathtub and terrace. Rooms

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house a king-size bed, television, mini-bar, safety box and westernstandard toilet. Lighting is soft at this small and intimate resort where guest satisfaction is a priority. (P:209, ref:C1) l Karma Kayak (T: 0818 0364 0538, www.karmakayak.com) has six air-conditioned bungalow rooms with individual themes incorporating the art and culture of Lombok, the Carribean, the Orient, Africa, China and India. Each bungalow has a large private verandah with comfy sofas perfect for relaxing on. (P:209, ref:A2)

l Kelapa Kecil (T: 0370 632 424, www.bluemarlindive.com) has three ultra modern villa style rooms with beach views over the communal plunge pool right on the main beach. (P:209, ref:A2)

l Kelapa Villas (T: 0812 3756 003, www.kelapavillas.com) are hidden in a coconut plantation on the northwest corner of the island offering guests the ultimate luxury in paradise. This idyllic private tropical retreat is just minutes from `North Beachâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; with each villa residency featuring a private lap pool, private chef, babysitting service and onsite wellbeing therapists. Almost any visitor request is catered to at Kelapa Villas. (P:209, ref:B3) l ko-ko-mo Resort (T: 0370 644 169, www.kokomogilit. com) is situated directly opposite the beach, facing the beautiful

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highlands of Lombok. The resort has eleven one, two and three bedroom private villas, each with their own freshwater swimming pools that provide an exclusive retreat from the noise and bustle of hectic city life. A fine dining restaurant caters to modern culinary tastes and guests can relax on ko-ko-mo beach in the evening while sipping on delicious cocktails and enjoying an eclectic mix of music and spectacular views. (P:209, ref:D6)

Luce D’Alma Resort & Spa (T: 0370 621 777, www. lucedalmaresort.com) recently opened near `North Beach’ with the aim of satisfying visitors who demand sheer luxury and relaxation with a total commitment to quality. Managed by the Italian brothers Lucio e Antonio Sodano this stylish collection of sixteen ethnic contemporary cottages open directly onto an eighty-metre lap pool. Spa and fitness centre facilities also available. (P:209, ref:B2) l Pondok Lita (T: 0361 766 220, www.gili-hotels.com) is one of the original and most well-known budget home stays on the island. Recently refurbished, this modest place is a traveller’s pick in the international guidebooks for its clean, safe and warm hospitality. The friendly staff will also assist in arranging transport back to Bali or mainland Lombok. (P:209, ref:C5) 230

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Rumah Saga (T: 0818 0571 4315,www.rumahsaga.com) has personalised service and peaceful garden rooms around a pool, two hundred metres from the beach. All rooms feature either fan cooling or air conditioning with minibar and television facilities. This mid range accommodation attracts many families to the four rooms so it’s essential to book well in advance. (P:209, ref:B4)

Savana Beach (T: 0815 58540) is situated on the North Beach with fourteen rooms of a variety of sizes. Rooms have a garden and beach views suitable for families as some rooms have connecting doors. Rooms have choice of air conditioning or fan. The two-bedroom villa comes with a fully equipped kitchen, outdoor dining and living area perfect for family gatherings and groups of friends. The sizeable communal pool is newly installed and the private beach is expansive and well positioned for sunsets over Mt Agung in Bali. (P:209, ref:D2) l Scallywags (T: 0370 631 945, www.scallywagsresort.com) have a mid range collection of rooms, some of which have adjoining doors for families and groups. Small private gardens, large LCD televisions and every mod con is provided as is a large shared swimming pool attractively concealed behind the

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beachfront

restaurant

operation.

(P:209, ref:D6)

l Snapper Bungalows (T: 0370 624 217, www. beachhousegilit.com) has recently come under management by The Beach House and has five newly renovated budget bungalows in a small private garden, only steps away from Main Beach with excellent snorkelling and beach setting. Each room has its own bathroom, a spacious bedroom and outdoor terrace. (P:209, ref:D3) l Tir Na Nog (T: 0812 3754 778, www.tirnanogbar.com) offers ten deluxe and popular mid range rooms right in the centre of the bar scene, but just far enough away from the action to guarantee some privacy. Located at the rear of the complex is a modern two-bedroom villa ideal for families. There’s a full range of games on hand including table football and even a Nintendo Wii console. Expect a friendly and efficient service from the staff and proprietors. (P:209, ref:D6) Trawangan Oasis (T: 0361 766 220, www.gili-hotels. com) is located in a coconut plantation on the northern end of the island about 800m inland from the beach. Each bungalow is air conditioned with a semi outside bathroom with hot water shower. Room facilities include a television and DVD player, mini bar fridge 232

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and in room safe. There are also two complimentary bicycles for use per bungalow so guests can enjoy the island to the full. There is also a new twelve metre pool with kid’s pool attached surrounded by a paved sunbathing area. (P:209, ref:B6)

Villa Almarik (T: 0370 638 520, www.almarik-lombok.com) are to be found right at the far end of the main stretch of beach and are a collection of twentyfour large bungalow rooms very popular with visiting families and the Italian crowds in August. With full amenities and resort facilities there’s also a good restaurant onsite serving Mediterranean and Indonesian cuisines. (P:209, ref:C1) Villa Baruna (T: 0361 766 220, www.gili-hotels .com) is set 250 metres back from the main beach and is a very large threebedroom villa with en suite facilities and air conditioning throughout. Perfect for families with children and large groups the villa also boasts a fitted kitchen, private staff and a sizeable swimming pool with wooden decking surrounds perfect for sun worshipping. (P:209, ref:C2) Villa Grasia Resort & Spa (T: 0370 629 977,www.villagrasialombok.com) each of Villa Grasia’s twenty-three elegantly furnished deluxe cottages has an open-air terrace, a spacious bedroom, and

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a well-appointed bathroom with a private courtyard. This beautiful resort brings together an enticing blend of spacious cottages, excellent standard of dining outlets, bar, spa, and ocean recreational facilities. (P:209, ref:B2) Villa Julius (T: 0819 3675 4186, www.villajulius.com) here the philosophy is to combine design and innovation to create a small bohemian chic hotel for today’s traveller. All seven rooms are indvidually and personally decorated, king size bedrooms with air conditioning are set under traditional Balinese style roofing with en-suite bathrooms and openair showers. Multiple living and dining areas provide additional relaxation and entertainment options. (P:209, ref:A4) l Vila Ombak (T: 0370 642 336, www.hotelombak.com) is the only five star resort on all the Gili islands with seven different room types. The Superior Lumbung Terrace Bungalows and the new Lumbung Seaside Rooms both have a blend of modern island inspired natural interiors, the latter of which has grand ocean views. The three tier swimming pool, Demada Spa, restaurant and two hundred metres of beach make Vila Ombak a destination in its own right and popular for all types of visitor to the island. (P:209 ref:D6) 234

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activities Aside from the obvious lure of snorkelling and diving, sunbathing and bar-hopping, Gili Trawangan has a fair amount of distractions to keep visitors both amused and entertained throughout the course of their stay. l The Beach House (T: 0370 642 352, www.beachhousegilit. com) offers line fishing and trawling that can be arranged through their office by booking 24 hours in advance. Fishing trips and charters can be made with local fishing boats or with their own `Catch-aSnapper’ outrigger. All boats have experienced captains and fishermen with built in fish finders! (P:209, ref:D6)

Bio Rock (contact Delphine at Big Bubble Diving, T: 0370 625 020, www.bigbubblediving.com) is an environmental initiative set up by the Gili Eco Trust that over the last six years has hosted an annual Bio Rock workshop on Gili Trawangan. The artificial metal reef cages are fed a constant voltage of electricity to encourage coral regeneration and are a natural attraction for all forms of marine life. There are now thirtythree individual projects in the Gilis and it’s possible to snorkel or dive around them and there’s even a PADI specialty course tailored to educate and involve a wider community. www.theislandkey.com

(i) keyinfo

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Concerns about the conservation of the Gili Islandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; beaches, corals and ecology has led to the creation of the Gili Eco Trust, now in its seventh year. All dive centres operating in the Gili islands have a fixed price agreement and have all agreed to charge a one time `reef taxâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; of IDR 40,000 to every visiting diver and IDR 20,000 for snorkellers. This money is then used to pay for beach cleaning initiatives, recycling, beach regeneration and reef conservation projects. There are currently thirty-three artificial Biorock reef structures around the Gili islands attracting shelter for fish and marine life. The reefs are a variety of shapes and sizes, all at depths between 8 metres and 18 metres and are suitable for both snorkelling and diving. Visitors can learn about the Biorock techniques and help measure the coral growth and improvement to the natural habitat with a PADI Specialty Course with any of the local dive centres.

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Golf Trips (bookings through Island Promotions, T: 0361 753 241, www.gili-paradise.com) to mainland Lombok and the very picturesque Lombok Kosaido Golf and Country Club are highly recommended. Suitable for all abilities this trip is a must as golfers arrive at hole four by speedboat where they are collected by a buggy and driven to the clubhouse prior to tee off. The course structure and landscaping makes for a relaxed golfing experience, neither too challenging nor too demanding. Next door to the golf course is Hotel Tugu Lombok, perfect for a post-golf round of drinks before heading back to the islands by boat. Horse Riding (Stud Stables, T: 0878 6179 1565) is a great way to see the whole of the island. Daily walks take in the perimeter of Gili Trawangan along the beach and Stud have experienced and professional guides. Even though the routes are very relaxed and not at all challenging the horse rides are best suited to more practiced riders. (P:209, ref:C7) l Karma Kayak (T: 0818 0364 0538 / 0818 0559 3710, www.karmakayak.com) is the perfect way to combine sports with nature. Full training and a practice session with a qualified NKB/BCU instructor is given prior to embarking on a paddle across the channel 236

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to neighbouring Gili Meno for a picnic lunch. (P:209, ref:A2) Surfing (Gili Surf Shop at the art market, T: 0812 3727 615) is extremely popular at the southern tip of the island. This fast right hand reefbreak is only to be ridden by experienced surfers as the sharp coral lurks only centimetres below the surface. On big swells the beach breaks at `Goodheart’ can be a fun distraction for all ages and abilities. Turtle Sanctuary (in front of Dino Café, main beach) is involved in the preservation of one of Indonesia’s most endangered natural species. The turtle eggs are purchased from collectors and put in secure incubation areas until hatching, whereupon they are placed in holding tanks. When the turtles are large and healthy enough they are released. (P:209, ref:C2)

There are now a number of live aboard traditional phinisi boats running regular scheduled trips to the islands of Sumbawa, Komodo and Flores from the Gilis. These live aboards cater to both divers and non-divers and offer cultural pursuits en-route as well the incredible experience of sailing the ancient trading routes of the 16th century spice traders. For more information on liveaboard boats and availability turn to page 286. www.theislandkey.com

Local taxi service (Foued Kadachi)

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introduction Only a kilometre from Gili Trawangan and set in the middle of the three islets lies the real Robinson Crusoe experience of the Gilis with some of the best beaches to be found. Only two kilometres long and one in width, Gili Meno is the smallest of the three islands and by far the most tranquil. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s possible to walk the circumference of Gili Meno in under two hours at a leisurely pace, which is the most common pastime for visitors to this island. Most visitors are drawn to Meno for the lure of total escapism and it is therefore very popular with honeymooning couples and adventurous castaway types. The dining scene is predominantly warung fare with grilled fish on the beach once dusk approaches. Lazing around in a hammock, reading books and playing chess with the friendly locals (who are always willing to strike up a conversation) also ranks very highly on the daily Meno agenda. For divers and snorkellers, the island boasts the infamous Gili Meno Wall where during the day turtles freely swim by and 238

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keyshortcuts Get back to basics Crusoe-style on a real life desert island (see page 240 for getting there recommendations) Menoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s white sands are a beachcomberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s delight (see page 240 for beach life recommendations) Huts on the beach are order of the night (see page 241 for accommodation recommendations) One of the biggest bird parks in Indonesia is on Gili Meno (see page 242 for activities)

Simonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Reef

Light House

Kura-kura H

H Shack 58 & 59

Maya Cafe R

R Blue Coral

Good Heart H

R Balenta H Pondok Santay

Sunset Gecko H

H Pondok Sri

Diana Cafe R H Amber House

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Meno Wall

R Tris H Zoraya Pavillion

Lake H Cassablanca H Amigos

R Balu Cafe

Wartel Communications Kepala Desa Office

Meno Slope

R Yaya Cafe R H Royal Reef R H Jali Cafe

Ko Uchi H Bird Park A R H

A Ticket Office

Family Cafe R

Bird Park Villa H

R Family Cafe

H Pajri

R H Rust Bungalow

Fantastik H Kamri Cafe R

A Blue Marlin Dive

Rawa Indah H Biru Meno H

R H Villa Nautilus

Lumba-lumba R

R H Malias Child R H Gazebo R H Kontiki

Bagen Vile H

Jubblies

R H Tao Kombo B Jungle Bar

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giant gorgonian fans hang amongst the colourful corals. At night divers can witness huge Moray Eels and the entertaining Spanish Dancers. getting there Most visitors arrive via Gili Trawangan then jump on a connecting island hopper boat for the fifteenminute trip over the channel. Boats depart from Gili Trawangan at 9.30am and 4.00pm daily (approximately IDR 23,000) and from Gili Air at 8.30am and 3.00pm (a twenty minute ride, IDR 25,000). Visitors from mainland Lombok leave from Bangsal harbour in public boats for the twenty-five minute crossing (IDR 25,000). Purchase tickets only from the concrete Koperassi Karya Bahari building and not from the touts that line the roads into Bangsal. There are no set timings for the crossing from Lombok to Gili Meno, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s up to the captain once the boat is full but it is possible to charter your own public boat for a fixed price of IDR 190,000 or buy up remaining available tickets for a speedier departure. beach life The most popular stretch of sand on Gili Meno is to be found to the left of where the boats pull up on the beach. This southern beach strip is where the majority of accommodation 240

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on the island is to be found. There are no hawkers to disrupt a dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sunbathing and the beach huts lining the sand offer a perfect respite from the heat where visitors can buy drinks and snacks from the neighbouring warungs. Snorkelling equipment can be hired from Blue Marlin Dive or from any of the local operators. Swimming is perfectly safe in the calm waters here but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t venture too far out from the shoreline. diving Blue Marlin Dive is the only dive centre on Gili Meno offering PADI courses and daily fun dives to sites all around the islands. Popular dive spots include Gili Meno Wall and Meno Slope, suitable for all levels of proficiency. As with Trawangan, visibility is constantly good year round. Expect to see Hawksbill and Leatherback turtles, schools of Batfish, Blue-spotted stingrays and many varieties of hard and soft corals. If you look hard enough you could be lucky enough to find rare and unusual nudibranchs amongst other lesser-spotted micro critters. Blue Marlin (T: 0370 639 979, www.bluemarlindive.com) are the only resident dive operator on Gili Meno and offer the same service as other Blue Marlin operations on the Gilis and mainland Lombok. Daily fun dives and PADI courses available all year round. (P:179, ref:D5) www.theislandkey.com

dining out Although it may not appear so at a first glance there are actually a fair number of places to eat along the beachfront all with spectacular views over to Lombok or Gili Trawangan. Balenta is on the north of the island and specialises in local Sasak cuisine with Mount Rinjani and mainland Lombok as a dramatic backdrop. (P:239, ref:D2) Bibi’s Café is part of Villa Nautilus and has the usual mix of Western and Indonesian dishes with reputedly the best pizzas on the island. (P:239, ref:C5) The Jungle Bar is to be found inside the Tao’ Kombo bamboo huts set up literally in the bush! A quiet and secluded spot on the far southern tip of the island. (P:239, ref:C6) Malia’s Child is a popular gathering spot for budget travellers and serves a heady mix of Indonesian and European cuisines. (P:239, ref:C6) The Rust Bar and Restaurant right at the harbour front is street side in a central location with cool music and plenty of punters hanging around for after dinner drinks. (P:239, ref:D5) accommodation Don’t come to Gili Meno expecting to find the top level of accommodation as on Trawangan.

The charming Thai style huts on the main beach are very popular as they are the only rooms on all three islands that are situated actually at the water’s edge. Mid range bungalows are generally situated slightly back from the main path whilst budget rooms can be found dotted throughout the whole of the island. Amber House (T: 0813 3757 9728) is to be found just along the main strip. The thatched bungalows and rooms are situated in a shady tropical garden on the northern part of the island. There’s a mix of cheaper rooms and better-appointed bungalows with freshwater shower facilities and fan. The beach out front is quiet and charming in its own right and visitors will find few distractions or disturbances. (P:239, ref:D3) Biru Meno (T: 0813 3975 8968, www.birumeno.com) is a tenminute walk from the harbour at the southern end of the beach. Good quality bungalow setup with sizeable verandahs and freshwater bathing facilities. (P:239, ref:C6) Gazebo Meno (T: 0370 635 795, www.gili-hotels.com) has ten bungalows set back from the beach in and amongst the shady palms. All rooms come with either AC or fan, but without hot water. A small communal swimming pool is onsite near the beach. (P:239, ref:C6) Good Heart (T: 0361 766 220, www.gili-hotels.com) have well gili meno

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built, well furnished traditional Sasak rice barn huts in an isolated northern part of the island. All huts have garden views and private outdoor bathrooms. (P:239, ref:A2) Malia’s Child (T: 0370 622 007, www.gilimeno-malias.com) is recognised as being probably the first tourist accommodation on the island and have a most charming location right on the water’s edge. Fan cooled traditional style huts with amazing ocean views on one of the best beaches on Meno. The airplane shaped Biorock directly out the front is excellent for snorkelling or diving. (P:239, ref:C6)

Shack 58 and 59 (T: 0361 766 220, www.gili-hotels.com) are two highly original private properties available to rent on the north east coast of Meno. The bedrooms are all air conditioned with adjoining outside bathrooms, whilst at the front of each `shack’ is a separate lounge/ living area leading to a small private baruga on the beach. Live in staff are there to attend to guests’ needs and will prepare meals as and when required. (P:239, ref:C2) Villa Nautilus (T: 0370 642 143, www.villanautilus.com) has the most light and stylish airy rooms on Gili Meno. There are five modern villas each equipped with AC, hot water and a spacious verandah, within walking distance of the beach and harbour. (P:239, ref:C5) 242

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activities There are not too many activities to be found on Gili Meno, which is part of its appeal. Those who simply cannot refrain from some form of activity will find the Bird Park in the centre of the village an entertaining distraction for a morning or afternoon. The park houses over three hundred birds in a natural and free environment. Peafowls, Pheasants, Hornbills, Eagles, Pelicans, Macaws and parrots galore are amongst the feathered citizens and ambassadors gathered from all over the world. Accommodation is also to be found onsite but most make the trip for the guided tour of the park. The Turtle Sanctuary plays an important role in protecting and hatching baby turtles for release into the Gili waters. Small donations are very welcome to this worthwhile cause. Apart from these two pursuits it’s back to tropical beach-combing and book reading activities to whittle away the Gili Meno hours unless you are a surfer as the southeast corner of the island boasts the surf break `Secrets’ that sucks up an incredible amount of swell when it’s on. A hollow right up to six foot the wave can wall and provide barrel sections over a frighteningly shallow reef. The mellow surfing crew will show visiting surfers the ropes. www.theislandkey.com

Meno beach life (Foued Kadachi)

Backwater Air (James Watling)

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introduction Although Gili Air is closest to the Lombok mainland it is the most overlooked of the three islands in terms of development. However, that is all set to change as the market here is geared very much towards the budget traveller and tropical island explorer. A lot of visitors actually prefer the grass roots atmosphere of Gili Air and the feeling of really being part of a close knit local community. The circumference of the island is traversable by foot in around two and a half hours but be sure to pack some supplies as you’re heading well off the beaten track. As with Gili Meno the pace of life is slow and endearing to those who really want to escape the hustle and bustle of the outside world. More accommodation, cafés and bars are slowly starting to spring up to complement the three dive centres on the main beach strip. There are internet facilities at the Ozzy Shop (who also rent bicycles) and in a tiny wartel (phone shop) behind Villa Karang but 244

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keyshortcuts Boat hop the islands (see page 246 for getting there recommendations) Make the most of the incredible diving on the Gilis (see page 246 for diving recommendations) Beers on the beach and cocktails in hidden jungle bars (see page 246 for bar & club recommendations) Find out why backpackers and budget tourists call Gili Air ‘home’ (see page 249 for accommodation options)

1 Haanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Reef

Secret Reef

R H Gili Air Hotel

Lombok Indah H

Legend Bar B Harmony B Mirage B Nusa Indah H Bunga H Matahari H Pondok Pantai H

R H Sandy H Gusung Indah A R Blue Marlin Dive

B Star Bar R Ichenk Cafe S Pantas

Kira-kira H

H Abdi Fantastik

H Coconut R Frangipani

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S Ozzyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shop

R H Sejuk Cottages

H Gili Air Santay

H Island View

Kepala Desa Office

R Sasak Warung

Gili Air Slope

H Gita Gili

Salabose H

H A Manta Dive

Lucky H

B Corner Bar

Safari H

H Sun Rise

Sunset H

B Chill Out Bar

Nusa Tiga H Resota H H Gogo

Light House

B Zipp Bar A Dream Divers

H Bupati Bungalow

Pondok Gili air H Wartel Communications

H Ticket Gili Indah Office Hotel

R Tami Cafe H Paradiso

Sussi Shop S

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the connection is far from reliable. For its size Gili Air actually has a wide range of accommodation to suit every taste and budget either on the beach or set back in the coconut groves. Be advised to change enough cash for your entire stay as the nearest moneychanger and ATM is on Gili Trawangan. getting there Island hopper boats are the preferred mode of transport to Gili Air from Gili Trawangan, neighbouring Gili Meno and mainland Lombok. Gili Air is a thirty minute ride from Gili Trawangan with boats leaving from Trawangan harbour at 9.30am and 4.00pm (IDR 25,000) and stopping at Gili Meno first before continuing onto Gili Air at approximately 9.45am and 4.15pm (IDR 23,000). Boats from the Lombok mainland leave from Bangsal at irregular intervals when the outriggers are full with a maximum carriage of twenty people. Rather than waiting for the boats to fill it’s possible to purchase the remaining tickets (IDR 8,000 each) and effectively speed up your departure; the option for a full charter boat is IDR 200,000 fixed price. Avoid the Bangsal touts and head to the Koperassi Karya Bahari building to purchase tickets where prices are fixed. 246

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beach life Much the same as Gili Trawangan and Gili Meno, Air has picturesque white sand beaches but unfortunately is prone to the effects of long shore drift with the northern shoreline suffering the worst of the erosion. The swimming is shallow along the east coast with the sand giving way to a coral reef table and is perfectly safe provided you don’t venture into the channel beyond the shelf. Snorkelling gear is available from the local operators and dive centres will point you in the right direction for some marine adventure. diving There are three dive centres currently operating on Gili Air that all have training pools, restaurant facilities and most provide accommodation onsite. The dive centre boats whisk visitors out to the two most popular spots Haan’s Reef and Gili Air Wall. Haan’s boasts some specialist muck diving just off the east coast of Gili Air and is largely frequented by photographers seeking to capture a glimpse of stranger creatures like Flying gunard, frogfish and many varieties of pipefish. Gili Air Wall (as the name suggests) to the west is a twenty-four metre vertical drop with plenty of lionfish, Leaf www.theislandkey.com

scorpionfish and the occasional seahorse spotting. Blue Marlin (T: 0370 634 387, www.bluemarlindive.com) has a spacious and open dive operation with a sizeable swimming pool that accesses directly onto the boats on the beach. A great little restaurant and bar round off the Blue Marlin dive centre. Instructor Development Courses are periodically conducted here - check with the centre for more information. (P:245, ref:C2) Dream Divers (T: 0370 634 547. www.dreamdivers.com) is located near the harbour providing daily fun dives and PADI certified courses to all levels. (P:245, ref:D6)

Manta Dive (T: 0813 5305 0462, www.manta-dive-giliair.com) is the new sister operation to the already hugely successful Gili Trawangan dive setup. The centre has five Sasak style air-conditioned huts with hot water and funky outside bathrooms with communal swimming pool. PADI and SSI courses from beginner to instructor level are conducted onsite and also cater to the fun diver with a variety of packages to suit all abilities and demands. (P:245, ref:D5) the bar & club scene Gili Air doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have the full on party vibe of bigger brother gili air

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Gili Trawangan but still has enough entertainment to keep the average reveller smiling. In high season (May through to December) expect to stumble across the occasional psychedelic fluro `Goa style’ beach party with raging techno beats that sometimes don’t let up for the best part of two full days! Very popular with the older Bali expatriates, the events are a throw back to the acid house revolution of yesteryear and are no less tame than their late 1980’s counterparts. For those of a less excitable persuasion there’s plenty of social drinking fun to be had. Chill Out Bar is pretty similar to Corner Bar but further up the beach towards Zipp’s. More beachfront beverages in unpretentious surroundings, closes early around 11pm. (P:245, ref:D5) Corner Bar is the closest to the harbour and is little more than the name suggests, a set of barugas and tables and chairs on the beach. (P:245, ref:D5)

Legend Bar has the weekend Wednesday party night during the high season months with lots of reggae and house music vibes and is also the location for the infamous Full and Black Moon beach parties. (P:245, ref:B2)

Star (next to Blue Marlin Dive) is a popular post dive drinking spot for the expatriate dive community 248

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and visiting scuba heads. Imported spirits available. (P:245, ref:C2) Zipp’s (next to Manta Dive) serves food and drinks for the Manta Dive operation and is a popular meeting spot for late afternoon beers. Imported spirits available. (P:245, ref:D5)

dining out There’s a reasonable amount of restaurants on Gili Air offering good value varieties of Indonesian, Western and European food. Mostly located along the main strip of beach on the east coast, each café and restaurant shares the same stunning view across to Mount Rinjani in the distance. Frangipani Garden Restaurant is situated at Coconut Cottages about half way up the beach strip and is setback in the coconut plantations serving appetising local and Western cuisines. The Sasak inspired `Rice Table’ needs to be ordered at least one day in advance and is a perfect feast for small and medium size groups. (P:245, ref:C3) Gili Air Santay (T: 0818 0375 8695) is renowned for their Thai dishes although it’s only one example of their wide selection of cuisines from around the world. (P:245, ref:D4) Mirage Coffee Bar and Bakery is the place to head to for a full English breakfast. Although situated on the quieter far northen www.theislandkey.com

side of the island the trip is well worth the effort for tasty homemade sandwiches and Mezze plates and is an ideal spot for a sunset tipple. (P:245, ref:B2)

accommodation Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fair cross section of accommodation options on Gili Air sure to appeal to all budgets. The `contemporary villa sceneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; has yet to arrive on the fair Air shores so instead expect to find a wealth of rustic and very natural bungalows, huts and rooms set in the charming groves and along the sandy beach strip. Coconut Cottages (T:0370 635 365, www.coconuts-giliair. com) is a collection of attractive fan and air-conditioned bungalows set in a huge garden haven set back from the beach. All with hot water and a friendly bank of staff. (P:245, ref:C3) Gili Air Santay (T: 0818 0375 8695, www.giliair-santay.com) are traditional cottages, a hundred or so metres back from the beach in a shady garden environment. Well suited to the budget traveller these fan cooled huts on stilts are a good option. (P:245, ref:D4) Hotel Gili Air (T: 0370 634 435, www.hotelgiliair.com) has chalet style accommodation for the mid range visitor. It has fan and airconditioned rooms, swimming pool

and restaurant on the beach and is extremely popular with the Italian crowd during the month of August. (P:245, ref:C2)

Sejuk Cottages (T: 0370 636 461, www.gili-hotels.com) is a really cool group of Sasak style lodgings, each with its own design identity. Two of the superior huts have an accessible upstairs chill out lounge with hammocks. Recommended for families. (P:245, ref:D3) Villa Karang (T: 0370 637 328, www.villakarang.com) has a pool, restaurant and a mix of inland and ocean facing bungalows. There is a really good range of rooms here to appeal to the middle market. (P:245, ref:B7)

activities Most come for the diving and the opportunity to just kick back and experience Sasak hospitality in a very alluring setting. What Gili Air is less known for is the fickle but sometimes quality surf. The right hand break to the south west known as `Playgiliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is far from a playground as the wave jacks up for a speed run over the jagged coral heads and rocks providing solid barrelling sections and cutback opportunities galore. For advanced surfers only as the nearest medical clinic is a good hour away from the island. gili air

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Dawn over Lembongan (David Burden)

www.theislandkey.com

lembonga

introduction Off the southeast coast of mainland Bali, just across the Badung Strait lie the three islands of Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Ceningan and Nusa Penida. The islands are the closest respite from the busy scene on Bali at just over thirty minutes on a fast boat service from Pelabuhan Benoa and Sanur, or just over an hour on the public service from Sanur. Only four kilometres long and less than three kilometres in width, Nusa Lembongan has a population in the region of 7,000 people, following Hindu, Buddhist and indigenous religious customs. The island villagers still maintain a very traditional Hindu way of life with religion being the primary focus and seaweed farming having been the predominant industry for centuries. The villagers are teetering on the edge of welcoming mass tourism to the islands but for the immediate future are concentrating their time and energies to harvesting the lucrative crops of red and green seaweed around the Jungutbatu Beach area. The seaweed is then 250

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keyshortcuts Sun, sea and surf, find out where (see page 254 for surf recommendations) Adrenalin dive some of Indonesiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wildest dive sites (see page 256 for diving recommendations) Book a table under the stars with a view to dine for (see page 258 for dining recommendations) Head deep underground or out to sea on a makeshift boating bar (see page 260 for activities)

D Sakenan Reef

R Made Warung R Mangroves Warung

Blue Corner

Sakenan Temple

R Nyoman Warung

Mangrove Forest Light House

Mimpi Resort R H Warung Keribik R Puri Nusa Indah H Shipwrecks H Linda`s R H Tarci Bungalows H Agung Bungalows R H Mainski Resort R H Ketut Losmen H Suka Nusa H Puseh Nusa Indah Surfers Bar B Temple Perama Office A Scooby Doo Bar B Pondok Baruna R H World Diving A Segara Lembongan Reef Secret Garden H Temple 99 Meal House A R Kaja Dua Minami Bungalows H Big Fish Diving A Kangin Dua R Ibu Candra Tourist Info A No 7 Bungalows R H Kelod Dua Bali Diving Accademy A to b ali & Dalem Scoot Fast Cruises A gilis Temple Lembongan Island H Beach Villas R A Island Time / The Surf Shack R HV R H H H HB illa H Le Ok Wa m P A atu m la a re Ka an ygro bongNo 7 War ran e un an g ds Re ef R H Coconuts Lembongan Kaja Bu ng H Mutiara alo A R H Bali Hai Tide Hut ws H Waka Nusa H Tanis Villa

Jungut Batu

Mushroom Beach

nusa lembongan

Devil`s Tear

Lembongan Kawan

Lembongan Kangin

Underground House Lembongan Kelod

Dream Beach

nusa ceningan

7 A

exported to Hong Kong, Japan and Asia as an emulsifying agent in the manufacture of products such as ice cream, cheese and cosmetics. For foreign visitors, the seaweed farming of Nusa Lembongan is an interesting cultural spectacle in its own right but most come for the allure of the offshore island lifestyle and attractions. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diving the world class sites and maybe catching a glimpse of the famously shy Mola Mola sunfish, snorkelling, catching waves on the famed Lembongan reef breaks, big game fishing, touring the island with camera in hand or just lazing on white sandy beaches, Nusa Lembongan offers something for just about everyone. getting there The quickest way to get from Bali to Jungut Batu Beach or Mushroom Beach on Nusa Lembongan is by a scheduled boat operator. l Blue Water Express (Pelabuhan Benoa Marina, T: 0813 3841 8988, www.bluewater-express.com) have a high speed direct service from south Bali to Mushroom Beach in less than thirty minutes and is the only provider to link Nusa Lembongan to the Gili islands and run a two island ticket for the price of one to Nusa Lembongan then onto the Gili islands direct. l Scoot Cruises (Sanur, T: 0361 285 522, www.scootcruise.com) 252

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provides hotel pick up in the popular tourist destinations on Bali and has two daily services in the low season and three in the high to Jungut Batu. The boats leave daily from the beach opposite the Grand Bali Beach Hotel in Sanur at 9.30am, 1.30pm and 4.00pm returning 8.30am, 11.30am and 3.00pm. The crossing takes little more than thirty minutes and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recommended that travellers book a return ticket with Scoot prior to departure from Bali as one way return only transfers are not provided from Nusa Lembongan. Tickets are priced at USD 27 one way to Nusa Lembongan and USD 47 return. Perama (Legian, T: 0361 751 551, www.peramatour.com) offer a shuttle bus from all major tourist locations in Bali costing only IDR 125,000 one way with boats departing from Sanur at 10.30am daily. The Waka Sailing Catamaran (T: 0361 484 085, www.wakaexperience.com) can be chartered for up to thirty-five people and is a luxurious way to cruise the Badung Straits to Nusa Lembongan. The crossing takes around two hours with refreshments. The public outrigger boats to Nusa Lembongan leave at 8.30am only and return from Nusa Lembongan to Bali at the same time. A single ticket costs around IDR 75,000 and the crossing takes just over an hour. www.theislandkey.com

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beach life The white beaches of Nusa Lembongan are the main attraction for visitors. There’s not too much bother from beach sellers and there are plenty of small luxury resorts lining Mushroom Beach that will welcome outside guests to use their facilities. Jungutbatu Beach is the main docking point for all boats to and from the island, is where the seaweed farming takes place and has the largest choice of restaurants, accommodation and dive shops. To escape the more popular beaches, take a motorbike (IDR 100,000 per day) and head around Nusa Lembongan to the mangroves for clear waters, stunning white sand and a very unusual floating lounge at Mangroves Warung, `aka’ Louis’. Sunset Beach and Dream Beach are the next coves around from Mushroom Beach and are perfect for those seeking isolation. The entire stretch of the east coast of Nusa Lembongan is positioned perfectly for the stunning sunsets over distant Bali and is where the surf breaks are to be found. the surf The surf on Nusa Lembongan is world class with two of the best right hand waves in Indonesia situated right in front of Jungutbatu beach. Small boats ferry visiting surfers out to 254

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the breaks but it’s perfectly possible to walk out over the reef at low tide. All the surf spots are seriously dependent on the tide, one minute the waters can be flat and half an hour later the swell sweeping into the bay will be pumping. The waters in Nusa Lembongan are noticeably cooler than in Bali and all the breaks are suited to intermediates and advanced surfers only. Lacerations is a sleeping giant that awakes to produce mechanically flawless right hand barrels when over six feet. The take off is perilous and the inside tube wraps around on itself making a safe exit seem practically impossible. Hold your line and you’ll be spat out gloriously into the channel nearby the moored pontoon. Wear a lot of protective gear to avoid the sharp and very shallow reef. Advanced only. Mushroom Beach sometimes produces a left-hander at higher tides depending on the swell direction. Make a journey around here when Shipwrecks is starting to get out of control. Intermediates. Playgrounds is a left and right A-frame setup at the southernmost point of Jungutbatu. Don’t be fooled by the name; Playgrounds is a shallow, fast and unforgivable wave that breaks over a beautifully coloured reef. Intermediates plus. Shipwrecks is at the top end of Jungutbatu and is a fun hot www.theislandkey.com

(i) keyinfo

sports safety

If you are planning on taking part in any adventure sports or extreme sports in Bali, it is best to stick with the larger, more accredited companies, as their staff are well trained and well qualified to deal with any emergency situations should they occur. Smaller operations can be a bit lax on these points so be sure that you are getting the full service and safety standards you are happy to pay for. It goes without saying that anyone who visits Bali to enjoy the amazing variety of sports (both on land and in the water) needs to have fully paid up comprehensive insurance cover that includes the option for emergency evacuation. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worry - the majority of accidents that do happen in Bali and Lombok are road related and not from sporting activities! It is of upmost importance that all sports enthusiasts are confident of their skill level, experience and ability before undertaking any extreme activities. lembongan

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dogging wave that can occasionally produce a fine barrel section. The exposed take off point sucks up all available swell and can produce some genuinely frightening clean up sets. On bigger days surfers who fail to make the first section will find themselves in all manner of trouble as the crosscurrents turn a speedy exit from the impact zone into a major feat of escapism. The hull of the rusted shipwreck can still be seen on lower tides but the real peril is the shallow reef and seaweed fence that regularly claims both boards and flesh. Advanced. diving Nusa Lembonganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crystal clear waters and thriving coral reefs play host to one of Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most prolific and diverse marine communities. The diving is considered world class with excellent coral growth and abundant fish life. Manta rays can be seen year round and seasonal migrations of the rare Mola Mola sunfish occur from August to October. Water temperature can vary considerably and ranges from 16 to 29 degrees Celsius. The currents around the three islands are notoriously challenging and must be treated with extreme caution. The strong cross currents are unpredictable and can quickly develop into vicious down currents. Only dive with experienced operators. 256

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Blue Corner is a very popular drift dive, the highlight being a wall that is usually full of fish, sharks, big Napolean wrasse and sometimes Eagle rays plus the seasonal sightings of Mola Mola. dive centres There are three recommended dive operators all along Jungutbatu Beach that operate boats to the dive sites in and around the three islands. l Bali Diving Academy (Bungalow No. 7, Jungutbatu Beach, T: 0361 270 252, www.scubali.com) offer fun dives and PADI courses in and around the three islands. Other Bali Diving Academy centres can also be found in Sanur, the Gili islands, Tulamben and Pemuteran (North Bali). (P:251, ref:B5)

l Big Fish (Jungutbatu Beach, T: 0813 5313 6861, www. bigfishdiving.com) is to be found mid way along Jungutbatu Beach. The English dive centre owners are always onsite to make sure that visitors are well looked after and can safely experience the best diving. PADI courses, fun dives and a speed boat complete the Big Fish dive experience. (P:251, ref:B4) World Diving (Pondok Baruna, Jungutbatu Beach, T: 0812 3900 686) offer PADI courses from Discover Scuba Diver to Assistant Instructor and run daily dive tours around the islands. (P:251, ref:B4)

www.theislandkey.com

257 Schooling Trevally (Foued Kadachi)

the bar & club scene Nusa Lembongan doesn’t have a bar and club scene as such, and this is one of the main attractions for people visiting the island. There are a couple of restaurants that are popular hangouts after dinner and the bar will stay open until the early hours. Mainski Resort (Jungutbatu Beach) has a pool table, table tennis table and beachfront bar that is very popular with expatriates and visitors. (P:251, ref:B3)

Mangroves Warung, aka Louis’ (Northern point, past the lighthouse) is a driftwood bar assembled from a variety of flotsam and jetsam. Expect a rustic atmosphere to compliment the bar’s design, good international cuisine and cold beers. (P:251, ref:C1)

Scooby Doo Bar and Restaurant (Jungutbatu Beach) shows live sports broadcasts via satellite and has reasonably priced food and cheap drinks. (P:251, ref:B4) dining out There’s a lot of variety on Nusa Lembongan when it comes to dining out, from local warung fare to a broad range of European cuisine and nightly barbeques on the beach. 99 Meal House (behind Jungutbatu Beach) is a cheap and cheerful lunch spot mostly frequented 258

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by locals - but it is a real taste of Lembongan! (P:251, ref:B4) Batu Karang (The Ridge, T: 0366 24 880, www. batukaranglembongan.com) has an exclusive menu focusing on modern Asian fusion. International quality cuisine in a great setting. (P:251, ref:A5)

Linda’s (north Jungutbatu Beach, T: 0812 3600 867) has an excellent mix of Australian influenced Western dishes and Thai dishes with a revolving daily specials board. (P:251, ref:B3)

Mainski Resort (Jungutbatu Beach, T: 0366 244 81) plays host to a nightly beachfront barbeque with salad buffet and daily fresh fish. (P:251, ref:B3)

Nyoman Warung (after the lighthouse, T: 0852 3786 8588) serves great Balinese dishes and very fresh seafood. It’s best to call in advance to reserve one of the two tables. (P:251, ref:B2) Playgrounds (The Ridge, T: 0366 245 24) has a mix of Italian and European cuisine. Playgrounds is also a popular hangout at sunset for surfers and `Ridge dwellers’. (P:251, ref:B5)

Pondok Baruna (Jungutbatu Beach, T: 0812 390 0686) serves good Indonesian food and a healthy mix of Western cuisine of reliable quality. Popular with resident divers and has friendly staff. (P:251, ref:B4) www.theislandkey.com

accommodation Accommodation on the island is vast and varied but generally cheap and good value. It is imperative to book all accommodation in advance for the months of June, July and August. The standard of accommodation increases in quality (and price) the further south you head towards `The Ridge’ and Mushroom Beach. The more affordable backpacker hotels and `losmen’ rooms are located towards the northern stretch of Jungutbatu Beach, situated within close proximity to the surf breaks and dive sites. Batu Karang (The Ridge, T: 0366 24 880, www. batukaranglembongan.com) is one of the most upmarket villa operations in Nusa Lembongan. Very funky architecture in contemporary settings make Batu Karang a favourite for Lembongan jetsetters. The sophisticated spa and great restaurant are open to non residents. (P:251, ref:A5)

Hai Tide Huts (Mushroom Beach, T: 0361 720 331, www. balihaicruises.com) is five star resort accommodation on the beach. The unique Balinese style thatched huts are all air-conditioned and have upstairs lounge areas facing towards the ocean. The two storey huts are the height of romance for visiting couples. (P:251, ref:A6)

Lembongan Island Beach Villas (The Ridge, T: 0366 24 119, www.lembonganbeachvillas.com) has a great cliffside location with villas scaling the side of the ridge. Spacious sundecks, a communal pool as well as private plunge pools and all modern hi tech conveniences make this very popular with visiting families and groups. (P:251, ref:B5) Mainski Resort (Jungutbatu Beach, T: 0366 244 81) is a wellvisited place for younger travellers and surfers. Centrally located with easy access to the surf breaks, great evening barbeques and friendly owners keep guests coming back. (P:251, ref:B3) l Secret Garden Bungalows (Jungutbatu Beach, T: 0813 5313 6861, www.bigfishdiving.com) are a collection of cosy brick bungalows in a shady garden setting. Very spacious accommodation with communal chillout area and Big Fish dive operators onsite. (P:251, ref:B4) Shipwrecks Beach Villa (Jungutbatu Beach, T: 0813 3803 2900, www.nusalembongan.com. au) have a garden setting thirty metres from the beach. Bali carpenter style wooden chalets interconnect with a fully equipped kitchen and separate TV room. (P:251, ref:B3) Waka Nusa (Mushroom Beach, T: 0361 484 085, www. wakaexperience.com) has a selection of well appointed beach huts right by the water’s edge. A small boat runs lembongan

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surfers and visitors to other parts of the island and the large restaurant caters to day visitors with a healthy mix of freshly prepared Indonesian cuisine. (P:251, ref:A6)

activities The main draw at Nusa Lembongan is the wide variety of water sports from surfing to diving and snorkelling. There are several big cruises that leave Bali daily to Nusa Lembongan and provide packages incorporating all manner of oceanic excitement. Others prefer to strike their own path and may discover some really unique attractions and experiences native to the island. Bali Hai Cruises (Pelabuhan Benoa, T: 0361 720 331, www. balihaicruises.com) operate a huge two hundred - plus seater catamaran from Bali to a private pontoon in the waters of Jungutbatu Beach. All manner of tourist style watersports are provided for including snorkelling, banana boats, scuba diving and day trips to more remote beaches around the island. Visitors staying overnight can book into Hai Tide Huts run in partnership with the cruise operator. Devil’s Tear (southern point) is a blowhole cast in the rocky outcrop to the very south of Nusa Lembongan. Geyser like flumes of ocean spray erupt from the blowhole 260

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as the waves crash against the cliffs making Devil’s Tear a very photogenic location. Accessible by motorbike around fifteen minutes from Jungutbatu. (P:253, ref:A6) Mangrove Tour (ask at Mangroves Warung) is a personal tour through the mangroves of Nusa Lembongan in a local punter’s boat. It may not quite be as romantic as a punting trip through the waterways of Venice but is nevertheless an unusual way to see the remote northern tip of the island. Priced at IDR 75,000 to IDR 100,000 for an hour’s journey. (P:251, ref:C1)

Seaweed History Tour (99 Meal House) is run by an enterprising ex-seaweed worker who resides near the 99 Meal House and charts the history of seaweed farming in the area and the importance it has for the sustainability of the local Lembongan economy. There isn’t a set price for the tour so tip the guide as you feel fit. (P:251, ref:B4) Underground House (open on request) is a phenomenal labyrinth of underground chambers and corridors inspired in part by the Mahabarata and painstakingly hand dug by Made Byasa between 1961 and 1976. The carving of the caves became a life’s work for its creator and is an incredible feat of dedication. A small donation is appreciated to access the underground rooms. (P:251, ref:B6) www.theislandkey.com

Towering Mount Agung from Lembongan (David Burden)

Shapeshifters (David Burden)

www.theislandkey.com introduction Adjacent to Nusa Lembongan and adjoined by a yellow rickety steel suspension bridge, is Nusa Ceningan, towered over by the barren looming spectacle that is Nusa Penida. Compared to Nusa Lembongan both Ceningan and Penida are vastly underdeveloped but have massive potential to become a luxury tourist destination in their own rights. The sheer limestone cliffs of Nusa Penida are equal amounts foreboding and magnificence. The island is widely regarded by the Balinese as the `angkerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; or a place of evil spirits and home to the mythic figure of Jero Gede Macaling, who is believed to periodically send over his invisible henchmen to the shores of Bali to wreak havoc with plagues, famines, droughts and rats. Many Balinese make the annual pilgrimage to Pura Dalem Penataran Ped, Toyapakeh, in fleets of jukung to present offerings to the deities and appease the evil spirits. The best way to see Nusa Penida is by motorbike and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perfectly possible to 262

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keyshortcuts Steer off the beaten track to a part of Bali hardly anyone knows about (see page 264 for getting there recommendations) Witness the marvellous Mola Mola Sunfish (see page 264 for diving recommendations) Spend the night in a Balinese family household (see page 266 for accommodation recommendations) Bird spot in the serenity of the mangroves or game fish the rugged coastline (see page 266 for activities)

Lembongan Kaja Lembongan Kawan

Lembongan Kelod

Kelod Dua

nusa lembongan

1 H R The Landing

Lembongan Kangin

Toyapakeh

Bay View H

nusa ceningan Ceningan Channel A Swallow House

Ceningan Cove H

Crystal Bay

A to p a

dan

D Sental

g ba

Toyapakeh

Ped

Sampelan

H Garden Bungalows

Toyapakeh

Kutampi Crystal Bay

Malibu Point

Puncak Mundi

Suana

Batukandik

Bungamekar

Batu Medan

2 Batumadeg

nusa penida

Batu Kuring

Pejukutan

Manta Point

Tanglad Sekartaji

Batu Abah

3 A

circumnavigate the seventy-kilometre coastline in only one day. Most visitors don’t even set foot on the islands as they are interested in either surfing or diving and arrive by boat from Bali and Nusa Lembongan, which is appropriate as there’s currently limited accommodation on both Nusa Ceningan and Penida. getting there To get to Nusa Ceningan from Lembongan is easy by foot or on bike as the bridge connects one islet to the other and means that accessing some really remote private bays is easy. A popular passage of entry to Nusa Penida is by boat to Toyapakeh where good roads weave north to the main town of Sampelan on the northeast coast. the surf Nusa Ceningan has only one consistent surf break and Nusa Penida has no known rideable waves. Ceningan’s is a heaving left hand wall that catches the bulk of the southerly swell and is a longboarder’s dream. Long and cruisy, Ceningan’s is rumoured to have a giant tiger shark patrolling the waters but there have been no reported attacks. Advanced due to remoteness. 264

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diving There are no dive centres on either Nusa Ceningan or Penida so all trips will have to be pre-booked in either Bali or Nusa Lembongan. There are plenty more dive sites than centres, with some incredible pelagic marine life and challenging currents to entice the more experienced diver. Crystal Bay is a remote and beautiful beach with an underwater cavern accessible at the start of the dive before descending down a deep wall. Expect to encounter a family of bats inside the cave, a multitude of Eagle rays and if you’re really lucky a few Leopard sharks. Manta Point is on Nusa Penida’s southwest coast and features dramatic sheer limestone cliffs that drop off straight into the swirling ocean hundreds of feet below. The consistent swell and surge is huge and the sheer volume of water moving around means very strong currents. The Mantas seen here can grow up to five metres in length and there’s also common sightings of tuna and tiger mackerel. Toyapakeh is Nusa Penida’s most frequented dive site with excellent visibility and rich and impressive coral formations that provide excellent cover for trumpetfish and puffers. This is one of the few sites on the island suitable for divers of all levels. www.theislandkey.com

Puntersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; delight (James Watling)

accommodation There is currently limited accommodation on Nusa Ceningan, but land has been secured and development is already underway for the building of luxury lodgings. A restaurant, tavern, dive and tour centre will be located at the entry point to the island in the channel between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan. One of the few accommodation options on Nusa Penida (unless you are invited to stay with a family) is to be found in the main town of Sampelan. Nusa Garden Bungalows (Sampelan, T: 0813 3855 7595) are simple fan cooled rooms on the main tree lined street that is the centre for activity for traders and merchants. Bemo (local minivans) and ojek (motorcycle taxis) are the preferred means of transport around the island. activities Ceningan is most visited by beach lovers but offers an insight into untouched rural village life as visitors traverse the yellow suspension bridge from Nusa Lembongan. The landscape and scale of Nusa Penida warrants exploration but provides very little in the way of activities beyond soaking in the stunning landscapes, diving, fishing or snorkelling in the surrounding waters. The best way to see Nusa Penida is by motorbike but 266

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be sure youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a proficient rider as the steep inclines and declines on the island make it a potentially hazardous endeavour. Bukit Mundi is the highest point on Nusa Penida and affords the intrepid traveller an astonishing view across the island. It is said that Dewi Rohini (the female manifestation of Siwa) resides here. Pejukutan is six kilometres from Sewana and is a strange sight to behold as giant concrete dishes line the fields to catch rainwater that is then stored in massive underground tanks. Just further up the road is Tanglad with an ancient carved throne to the sun god Surya and some beautiful local weavings. Game Fishing is a popular sport off the shores and cliffs of Nusa Penida where giant tuna and jacks can be found. Several game fishing operators are based in Bali and are represented by Island Promotions (Kuta, T: 0361 735 241, www. island-promotions.com). Goa Karangsari is a short trek ten kilometres south from Sampalan. After a climb the tunnels open into a huge cave. Guides are available who will lead you to the 300 metre ledge offering spectacular views over the hillsides. The Galungan festival is celebrated inside the cave with a great procession and ceremony. The Swallow House on Nusa Ceningan is a good spot to birdwatch and is close to some incredibly beautiful beaches worth exploring. www.theislandkey.com

(i) keyinfo

tipping etiquette

Most hotels and restaurants will add at least a ten percent government tax on top of your bill. Many places also charge an extra eleven percent service charge, which can add up to a maximum of twenty one percent for tax and service to the bill total. Tips for attentive staff are appreciated in the smaller and quieter places without a set service charge. If you hired a car and driver, and liked your driverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s information and driving skills, then a tip of 10 to l5 percent is more than sufficient. Make sure you carry lots of small banknotes with you, as taxi drivers always claim to be short of change! Rounding up the fare to the nearest IDR 5,000 is customary and a tip of ten to fifteen percent is fair for a speedy (and safe) journey. An airport or hotel porter expects around IDR 5,000 per bag, depending on its size and weight, and this is actually a set tariff at the airport. ceningan & penida

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your guide to unlocking the islands

EDITORATLARGE gemma ash

SALES THE ISLAND KEY

MARKETING ISLAND PROMOTIONS

GRAPHICDESIGN YK2000

WEBDESIGN KOMANG ADNYANA

CONTRIBUTORS Rachel Greaves James Watling Foued Kadachi David Burden Jason Wolcott Tim Hain Tim @ Inwater Paul Brooks tim @ big fish

CIRCULATION THE ISLAND KEY

BALIOFFICE

jl benesari poppies lane two kuta, bali, indonesia tel: (0361) 766 220 web: www.theislandkey.com email: info@theislandkey.com

ÂŠ All rights reserved The Island Key 2009 No part of this publication may be reproduced without the prior consent of The Publisher. The Island Key does not accept responsibility for any information provided by advertising parties or for opinions of our contributors. All trademarks, logos and rights to The Island Key are represented by Island Promotions and protected by UKCS registration and copyright law.

268

index

www.theislandkey.com

directory of services

www.theislandkey.com

keyshopping 3rd Born Jl. Raya Seminyak X Seminyak T: 0361 733 760 69 Slam Jl. Raya Seminyak Seminyak T: 0361 731 096 Alabaster Lighting Istana Kuta Galleria Block Valet 1 No. 9 - Kuta T: 0361 769 007 Ali Charisma Jl. Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 416 536 Allegra Jl. Kunti Shop 6 Seminyak T: 0361 734 019 Animale Kuta Square - Kuta T: 0361 753 830 Asialine Jl. Hanoman 9 T: 0361 972 135 Atlas South Sea Pearl Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai - Sanur T: 0361 284 455 Bali Collection BTDC Complex Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 662 270

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Bali Deli Jl. Kunti - Seminyak T: 0361 738 686 Bali Prestige Developments Poppies Lane 1 - Pasar Agung T: 0811 873 442 Bamboo Blonde Jl. Laksmana 61 T: 0361 742 5290 Biasa Jl. Raya Seminyak Seminyak T: 0361 730 308 Bintang Supermarket Jl. Raya Seminyak 17 Seminyak T: 0361 730 552 Jl. Raya Sanggingan 45 - Ubud T: 0361 972 972 Body & Soul Flagship Store Jl. Raya Seminyak 11 T: 0361 733 564 Legian Jl. Legian 162 Kuta T: 0361 767 169 Pertokoan Kuta Square 27D Kuta T: 0361 761 559 Discovery Shopping Mall Blok D33-33A Kuta T: 0361 769 751 Mall Bali Galeria Lt. 1A - 39 Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai Kuta

T: 0361 767 065 Seminyak Square Unit A no 7-8 Seminyak T: 0361 736 439 Bali Collection Blok B6 Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 451 Sale Shop Seminyak Jl. Raya Seminyak 16C Seminyak T: 0361 733 011 Sale Shop Legian Jl. Legian 160 Kuta T: 0361 750 541 Body & Soul Bambini Jl. Legian - Kuta T: 0361 771 451 By The Sea Jl. Legian 186 - Kuta T: 0361 757 775 Cahaya Jl. ByPass Ngurah Rai Sanur T: 0361 286 177 Camper Shoes Jl. Pantai Kuta 1 Kuta T: 0361 760 095 Carlo Jl l. Danau Poso Sanur T: 0361 285 211 Carrefour Jl. Sunset Road Kuta T: 0361 847 7222

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Casa Gourmet Jl. Laksmana Seminyak Square T: 0361 738 026

Fashion Point Jl. Raya Seminyak 21 Seminyak T: 0361 734 2092

Cotton Crew Jl. Pantai Kuta 14 Kuta T: 0361 752 755

Funky Princess Kunti Plaza shop 3 Seminyak T: 0361 734 179

D Sign Jl. Laksmana Oberoi Seminyak T: 0361 743 7771

Funky Princess Glam Store Jl. Raya Seminyak 42 Seminyak T: 0361 766 537

Dandelion Jl. Raya Basangkasa 28 Seminyak T: 0361 730 375

Ganesha Bookshop Jl. Raya Ubud T: 0361 970 320

Decollage Jl. Legian - Kuta T: 0361 758 501

Gemala Silver Jewelry Jl. Raya Pengosekan T: 0361 976 084

Dejong Jl. Raya Seminyak Seminyak T: 0361 732 969

Hippie Chick London Jl. Raya Legian 396 Kuta T: 0361 763 563

Didu Jl. Sunset Road T: 0361 781 7717

Hishem Furniture Jl. Sunset Road 86 C-E - Seminyak T: 0361 737 441

Dinda Rella Jl. Laksmana 45 Seminyak T: 0361 736 953 Discovery Shopping Mall Jl. Kartika Plaza - Kuta T: 0361 755 522 Dragonfly Blue Jl. Raya Seminyak 34x Seminyak T: 0361 766 550 272

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Horizon Glassworks Jl. Raya Kengetan Ubud T: 0361 780 4014

Jemme Jl. Raya Seminyak Seminyak T: 0361 737 085 Jl. Raya Petitenget Kerobokan T: 0361 733 508 Kerry Grima Jl. Seminyak 27 Seminyak T: 0361 736 403 KMO Jewel Jl. Seminyak Seminyak T: 0361 847 5809 Leolle Jl. Raya Kerobokan 11 Kerobokan T: 0361 732 234 Lilla Lane Jl. Raya Seminyak 8 Seminyak T: 0361 736 180 Lily Jean Jl. Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 847 5872 Lio Collection Jl. Kerobokan 2 Kerobokan T: 0361 780 0942

Innuendo Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 742 8814

Long John Silver Jl. Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 856 3192

Istana Kuta Galeria Jl. Raya Patih Jelantik Kuta T: 0361 769 369

Lucyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Batik Jl. Raya Basangkasa 88x Seminyak T: 0361 736 098

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Lulu Boutique Jl. Raya Seminyak Seminyak T: 0361 732 711 Magali Pascal Jl. Raya Seminyak Seminyak T: 0361 732 132 Michael Harcourt Boutique Jl. Raya Seminyak Seminyak T: 0361 731 964 Milo’s Kuta Square Complex Kuta T: 0361 754 081 Mod Jl. Benesari - Legian T: 0361 758 683 Morena Jl. Laksmana - Seminyak T: 0361 734 313 Murni’s Warung Shop Jl. Raya Campuhan - Ubud T: 0361 972 146 Niluh Djelantik Jl. Kerobokan 144 Kerobokan T: 0361 733 074 Onyx Boutique Jl. Double Six 50 Seminyak T: 0361 746 1595 Paul’s Place Jl Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 736 910 274

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Jl. Petitenget Seminyak T: 0361 736 910 Paul Ropp Jl. Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 734 208 Jl. Uluwatu - Jimbaran T: 0361 701 202 Ubud T: 0361 975 655 Periplus Bali Galleria Mall 1st floor Jl. Simpang Siur Kuta T: 0361 752 670 Carrefour Kuta Sunset Ground floor No. 6-7 Jl. Sunset Road, Kuta T: 0361 8477 336 Discovery Shopping Mall Kuta Discovery Mall 1st floor Jl. Kartika Plaza T: 0361 769 757 Hardy’s Sanur Jl Danau Tamblingan 136 T: 0361 282 790 Bali Collection Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua. Nusa Dua 80363 T: 0361 771 662 Bali Deli Seminyak Jl. Kunti No. 117 T: 0361 734 578 Seminyak Square Jl. Kayu Jati No. 1 Seminyak Jl. Laksamana Pertokoan Seminyak Square. Kav. 9 T: 0361 736 851 Made’s Warung Seminyak Jl. Seminyak T: 0361 734 843 Bintang Ubud

Campuhan Bintang Jl. Sanggingan Ubud T: 0361 976 149 Monkey Forest Jl. Monkey Forest Ubud T: 0361 975 178 Tino / Ubud Main Road Jl. Raya Ubud (Opposite Lotus Restaurant) - Ubud T: 0361 971 803 Gate 1-2 Ngurah Rai International Airport T: 0361 751 011 # 5578 Gate 5-6 Ngurah Rai International Airport T: 0361 768 372 Gate 15 Ngurah Rai Domestic Airport T: 0361 763 490 Gate 17 Ngurah Rai Domestic Airport T: 0361 751 011 # 5322 Pipit One Jl. Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 736 696 Prasada Jl. Kunti - Seminyak T: 0361 735 805 Puravida Jl. Raya Seminyak 38B Seminyak T: 0361 743 1914 Rabia Jl. Raya Seminyak 10 T: 0361 731 035

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Fluro stylinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Foued Kadachi)

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Religion Jl. Laksmana T: 0361 731 916 Sabbatha Jl. Raya Seminyak Seminyak T: 0361 731 756 The Sandpit Jl. Legian 138 T: 0361 752 693 Bali Collection Nusa Dua T: 0361 775 698 Serba Antik Istana Kuta Galeria entrance 1-2 - Kuta T: 0361 769 400 Shellbella’s Jl. Raya Seminyak 60 T: 0361 747 2973 Simplekonsepstore Jl. Laksmana T: 0361 730 393 Skin Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 733 588 Sô Shop Jl. Raya Seminyak 57 T: 0361 732 834

Surfer Girl Jl. Legian 138 Legian T: 0361 752 693 Kuta Square D 15 Kuta T: 0361 753 885 Discovery Mall Jalan Kartika Plaza 1st Floor T: 0361 769 528 Pertokoan Bali Collection Blok 4, Kawasan BTDC Nusa Dua T: 0361 775 698 All Season resort Legian Jl. padma utara T: 0361 767 688 Hotel Mercure Jl. Pantai Kuta T: 0361 2748 785 Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman T: 0361 7801 879 Suarti Maestro Jl. ByPass I Gusti Ngurah Rai T: 0361 282 290 Taal Jl. Dewi Sita T: 0361 780 6087

Sogo Discovery Mall T: 0361 755 522

Tegun Folk Art Galeri Jl. Hanoman 44 T: 0361 973 361

Spicy Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 744 5663

Times Bookstores Matahari Kuta T: 021 5421 3020

Sun Island Jl. Raya Seminyak 188 T: 0361 733 779

Threads of Life Jl. Kajeng 24 T: 0361 972 187

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UC Silver Jl. WR. Supratman Batubulan Gianyar T: 0361 461 511 Uluwatu Jl. Legian Kuta T: 0361 751 933 Jl. Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 735 973 Jl. Danau Tondano 59 Sanur T: 0361 2876 38 Jl. Legian Kuta T: 0361 763 499 Vidi Accessories Jl. Werkudara Legian Kuta T: 0361 768 234 Vince & Clare Jl. Kunti - Seminyak T: 0361 780 3636 Vinoti Living Mall Bali Galeria Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai Kuta T: 0361 752 723 Xclusive Property Main Office Jl. Sunset Seminyak Jl. By Pass Sanur T: 0361 847 5955 Zenergy Jl. Basangkasa 28A Seminyak T: 0361 731 489

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Uptown Artgirl of glass (Puravida (Horizon courtesy Glassworks) image)

keysurf info

Wavelength (Jason Wolcott)

The Balcony Jl. Benesari - Kuta T: 0361 750 655

The Curl Jl. Legian - Legian T: 0361 754 455

Bali Barrel Jl. Legian - Legian T: 0361 767 238

The Depot Jl. Kunti 100 X Seminyak T: 0361 744 9864

Billabong Jl. Legian - Legian T: 0361 758 286 Blue Groove Jl. Legian Kuta T: 0361 752 693 Bobbyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Surf Camp Jl. Pantai Kuta T: 0361 755 588 278

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Dreamland Surf Kuta Square Complex T: 0361 755 159 Extreme Toys Jl. By Pass I Gusti Ngurah Rai No. 774 Nusa Dua Bali T: 0361 848 0471

Jl. Legian Kuta Bali T: 0361 764 467 Jl. Kuta Square D 28 T: 0361 756 291 Jl. Pantai Kuta No. 1 Kuta T: 0361 764 355 Jl. Legian 138 Kuta T: 0361 752 693 Gili Surf Shop Gili Trawangan The art market T: 0812 3727 615

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G Land Jungle Surf Camp Poppies Lane 2 T: 0361 772 870 In Water Entertainment Jl. Poppies Lane 1 Kuta T: 0813 3871 2119 Jungle Surf Jl. Pantai Kuta Kuta T: 0361 750 096 Lombok Surf Camp Grupuk Bay T: 0361 750 096 Odyssey Surf School Jl. Pantai Kuta T: 0361 742 0763 Quiksilver Kuta Square Complex Kuta T: 0361 757 838 Rapture Surf Camp Jl. Labuhan Sait Pantai Bingin T: 0813 3757 8261 Rip Curl Jl. Sunset Road 69 Kuta T: 0361 754 455 Kuta Square T: 0361 756 305 Jl. Legian Seminyak T: 0361 765 889 Jl. Kartika Plaza SOGO 280

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T: 0361 769 555 The Curl Jl. Melasti Kuta T: 0361 753 694 Indonesia Surf Factory Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai T: 0361 766 646 Surf Travel Online Jl. Benesari Legian T: 0361 750 550 Rip Curl School of Surf Jl. Double Six Seminyak T: 0361 735 858 Rusty Jl. Legian Kuta T: 0361 752 238 The Sandpit Pertokoan Bali Collection Blok 4, Kawasan BTDC Nusa Dua T: 0361 775 698 Sixthsense Poppies Lane 2 Kuta T: 0361 750 152 Stussy Jl. Legian Kuta T: 0361 763 463

Surf Travel Online/ SUP Jl. Benesari - Kuta T: 0361 750 550 Surfer Girl Jl. Legian 138 - Legian T: 0361 752 693 Kuta Square D 15 Kuta T: 0361 753 885 Discovery Mall Jalan Kartika Plaza 1st Floor T: 0361 769 528 Pertokoan Bali Collection Blok 4, Kawasan BTDC Nusa Dua T: 0361 775 698 All Season resort Legian Jl. padma utara T: 0361 767 688 Hotel Mercure Jl. Pantai Kuta T: 0361 2748 785 Surfer’s Inn Lombok T: 0370 655 582 Surfer’s Paradise Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai Jimbaran T: 0361 705 385 Swell Restaurant Jl. Uluwatu Dreamland T: 0361 703 068 Yoyo’s Sumbawa T: 0868 1210 4433

Star Surf Jl. Legian Kuta T: 0361 756 251

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keydive info

Trawangan Turtle (James White)

AquaMarine Diving Jl. Petitenget No.2A Seminyak T: 0361 730 107 T: 0361 738 020 Bali Diving Academy Jl. Danau Tamblingan Sanur head office T: 0361 270 252 Gili Trawangan located at Vila Ombak T: 0361 270 252 Nusa Lembongan Bungalow No. 7 Jungutbatu Beach T: 0361 270 252 Pemuteran Taman Sari Resort 282

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T: 0361 270 252 Tulamben T: 0361 270 252 BIDP Jl. Danau Poso 26 Sanur T: 0361 285 065 Big Bubble Diving Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0370 625 020 Big Fish Diving Jungutbatu Beach Nusa Lembongan T: 0813 5313 6861

Blue Marlin Dive Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0370 632 424 Gili Meno T: 0370 639 979 Gili Air T: 0370 634 387 Senggigi T: 0370 693 719 Blue Water Cruises Jl. Pantai Balangan Jimbaran T: 0817 343 168 Blue Season Bali Jl. Danau Tamblingan T: 0361 270 852

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Ten pin bulbs (Foued Kadachi)

Crystal Divers Jl. Danau Tamblingan T: 0361 286 737

Eco Dive Jemeluk Beach T: 0363 234 82

Divezone Belongas Bay Lombok T: 0370 660 3205

Geko Dive Padang Bai T: 0363 415 16

Dive Komodo Labuan Bajo Komodo T: 0385 413 54 Selamat Liveaboard T: 08155 701 393 Dream Divers Senggigi Lombok T: 0370 693 738 Gili Air Lombok T: 0370 634 547 284

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Jaya Jl. Petitenget T: 0361 732 760 Manta Dive Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0370 643 649 Gili Air Lombok T: 0813 5305 0462 Reef Seekers Labuan Bajo T: 0385 414 43

Reef Seen Aquatics Dive Centre Pemuteran T: 0362 923 39 Trawangan Dive Gili Trawangan T: 0370 649 220 Tulamben Wreck Divers Tulamben T: 0363 234 00 World Diving Nusa Lembongan Jungutbatu Beach T: 0812 3900 686 Water Worx Dive Centre Padang Bai T: 0363 412 20

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keyliveaboards introduction Relive the journeys of our ancestors through the uncharted waters of Indonesia that took the 16th century spice traders to islands such as Pulau Rinca and Pulau Run in the far-east of the archipelago. Volcanoes, dragons, pristine diving and megalithic tribes, you can trace their expeditions in considerably more luxurious modern conditions with a number of live aboard operators. Travel some of Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most amazing dive sites, through the calm waters of the Moyo National Marine Park of Sumbawa and the Sunda islands, to the raging currents of the Komodo strait and the crystal clear waters of Flores. l Jaya Live Aboard (Jl Petitenget 15xx Kerobokan, T: 0361 732 760 / 0361 734 654, 0812 1988 6931 or 0812 3678 9911, www.explorekomodo.com) is an Indonesian Phinisi built by a mixture of traditional and modern techniques and especially customized for Asian waters. She was built in 1999 as a dive exploration vessel and has since then sailed, dived and surfed through the waters of Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand discovering new destinations and fully exploring the more well known ports of call. 286

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The Jaya has full dive live aboard facilities with two compressors, two dinghies and charging stations for guestsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cameras. The cabins are divided into comfortable double berths with twin and double bunks, all cabins have running marine fans day and night. Maximum 12 guests. l Blue Water Cruises (Jl Pantai Balangan, Jimbaran / Gili Trawangan, T: 0817 343 168, www.bluewatercruises. com) has been operating in Indonesia since 1996. The German management have built and lived on the same boats that are now offered to guests for charter trips. The fleet of five mid range to luxury Phinisi boats sails the archipelago all year round, with the season being busiest from March until December. The design of the fleet combines the beauty and romance of traditional wooden pirate ships with modern safety equipment in total comfort and offer different travel programs and routes with the possibility to also design your own dream trip. Blue Water Cruises makes it possible to reach the most remote dive and surf locations for a reasonable price. The trips are designed for people who want to enjoy the adventures of the high seas and the un-spoilt landscapes above and below the waters of Indonesia. www.theislandkey.com

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keyactivities AJ Hackett Jl. Arjuna - Legian T: 0361 731 144 Alila Cooking School Manggis T: 0363 410 11 Ayung River Rafting Jl. Diponegoro - Denpasar T: 0361 238 759 Bali Adventure Tour Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai Pesanggaran - Sanur T: 0361 721 480 Bali Beach Golf Course Jl. Hang Tuah 58 Sanur T: 0361 287 733

Bali Day Trip (parasailing, banana boat ride, fly fishing) Jl. Pratama Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 747 3655

Bali Safari Marine Park Jl. Bypass Prof Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra Gianyar T: 0361 950 000

Bali Eye Balloon BTDC Complex Nusa Dua T: 0361 770 101

Bali Sightseeing Jl. Kartika Plaza Kuta T: 0361 853 5274

Bali Golf & Country Club BTDC Complex Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 791

Bali Sling Shot Jl. Kartika Plaza Kuta T: 0361 757 845

Bali Hai Cruises Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai Sanur T: 0361 720 331

Bali Bird Park Jl. Cok Ngurah Gambir Singapadu Gianyar T: 0361 299 352

Bali Handara Kosaido Golf Desa Pancasari Bedugul T: 0362 226 46

Bali Bird Walks Tjampuhan Ubud T: 0361 975 009

Bali Marine Walk Jl. By[ass Ngurah Rai Sanur T: 0361 808 0282

Bali Boot Camp Pura Petitenget Seminyak T: 0361 862 9372

Bali Paragliders Club Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai Sanur T: 0361 704 769

Bali Botanical Gardens Kutuh Kaja - Ubud T: 0361 970 951

Bali Quad & Tubing Jl. Wirastya VI Denpasar T: 0361 726 766

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Bali Tennis Academy at Nikko Bali Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan T: 0361 773 377 Bali Tree Top Botanical Garden Bedugul T: 0361 852 0680 Bali Zoo Jl Raya Singapadu Nusa Dua T: 0 361 294 357 Batara Water Sport Jl. Pratama 89 Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 776 322 Blue Oasis Beach Club Sanur Beach Hotel Sanur T: 0361 288 011

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Splashdown at Waterbomindex (courtesy image) 289

Bounty Cruises Benoa Harbour Nusa Dua T: 0361 726 666 Bumbu Bali Cooking School Jl Pratama Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 774 502 The Canggu Club Jl. Pantai Berawa Canggu T: 0361 844 6385

Island Explorer Cruises Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai Suwung T: 0361 728 088 Jenggala Keramik Jl. Raya Uluwatu - Jimbaran T: 0361 703 310 Karma Kayak Gili Trawangan Karma Kayak T: 0818 0364 0538

Elephant Safari Park Taro - Ubud T: 0361 721 480

Lombok Golf Kosaido Country Club Sire Beach - Lombok T: 0370 640 137

Exofly Paragliding Timbis Beach T: 0811 393 919

Mozaic The Workshop Jl. Sanggingan - Ubud T: 0361 975 768

Grand Bali Beach Hotel Golf Course Sanur T: 0361 288 511

Nirwana Bali Golf Club Jl. Raya Tanah Lot T: 0361 815 960

Harley Davidson Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai T: 0361 764 272

Odyssey Surf School Jl. Pantai Kuta T: 0361 742 0763

Horizon Glassworks Jl. Raya Kengetan Ubud T: 0361 780 4014

Paddy Adventure ATV Ride Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai Denpasar T: 0361 467 948

Horse Riding Gili Trawangan - Stud Stables T: 0878 6179 1565 The Island Adventure Jl. Pura Telaga Waja Petitenget - Seminyak T: 0361 730 333 290

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Rip Curl School of Surf Jl. Arjuna Seminyak T: 0361 735 858 Seawalker Club Aqua - Sanur T: 0361 281 408 Silolona Sailing Cruises Jl. Pengembak - Sanur T: 0361 287 326 Sobek Rafting Jl. Tirta Ening 9 Sanur T 0361 287 059 Tugu Cooking School Jl. Batu Bolong Canngu T: 0361 731 701 Umalas Stable Jl. Lestari 9X - Umalas, T: 0361 731 402 Waka Land Cruise & Catamaran Jl. Imam Bonjol Denpasar T: 0361 484 085 Waka Namya Cultural Activities Jl. Raya Penestanan - Ubud T: 0361 975 719

Paint Ball Jl. Karang Putih Ungasan T: 0361 770 300

Waka Di Ume Cooking School Jl. Suweta - Ubud T: 0361 973 178

Paradiso Bowling Kuta Centre - Tuban T: 0361 761 414

Waterbom Jl. Kartika Plaza - Kuta T: 0361 755 676

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Fairway to heaven (Marcus Stevens)

keykidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; activities Bali Tree Tops Bali Treetop Adventure Park is suitable for all ages of children whatever their level of agility or experience. There are specific courses carefully designed for small children from 4 to 12 years old. Bedugul Botanical Garden - Bedugul T: 0361 852 0680 Bali Bird Park Activities in this park are accessible for all ages and include educational and fun experiences such as bird feeding, 4D movies and bird flight shows. Jl. Cok Ngurah Gambir Singapadu - Gianyar T: 0361 299 352 Bali Safari Marine Park Holiday adventures should be fun, which Bali Safari and Marine Park provides in full measure, as well as its more profound and enduring mission of conservation. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perfectly suited to children of all ages and is a fun family day out. Jl. Bypass Prof Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra - Gianyar T: 0361 950 000 Bali Zoo This wildlife conservatory provides activities such us feeding the wide array of 292

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animals, live shows and displays, pony horse back riding and also features a kiddy park. Jl Raya Singapadu Gianyar T: 0 361 294 357 The Canggu Club The club provides facilities for kids such as a splash park, library, playground, paddling pools and sport academies. Jl. Pantai Berawa Canggu T: 0361 844 6385

crafts of the island. Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan Nusa Dua T: 0361 773 377 Paintball Paintball Bali stocks all the latest imported equipment from the US in 3-hectare compound for all visitors from age12. Jl. Karang Putih - Ungasan T: 0361 770 300

Elephant Safari Park The 3.5 hectare park is open to everyone of all ages and is especially recommended for younger children as an incredible opportunity to witness the Sumatran elephants in a natural habitat. Taro - Ubud T: 0361 721 480

Waterbom This is a sprawling 3.8 hectare tropical adventure park of world class water rides in the heart of Kuta. High speed slides, dizzying trails and cardiac-pounding rides carefully designed for children and adults alike from 2 years old upwards. Features rides especially for younger visitors. Jl. Kartika Plaza - Kuta T: 0361 755 676

Nikko Resort Jungle camp tailored to children aged 4 to12. The camp is made from natural materials and equipped with tree houses, climbing rock facilities, trampolines and a wide variety of day long explorative activities. The camp also enhances Balinese culture, as children can learn phrases, dances, and the unique arts and

Waka Namya Rice paddy trekking, Balinese language lessons Gamelan music classes and Rindik traditional painting lessons are on offer as well as cultural displays and the opportunity to learn about the religious culture of the Balinese people. Especially for kids but adults are also welcome. Jl. Penestanan - Ubud T: 0361 975 719

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keyart Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima Pengosekan Ubud T: 0361 974 228 Alila Ubud Gallery Desa Melinggih Kelod Payangan - Ubud T: 0361 975 963 Antonio Blanco Jl. Raya Campuan - Ubud T: 0361 975 502 Bamboo Gallery Jl. Nyuh Kuning Pengosekan - Ubud T: 0361 975 037 Biasa Gallery Jl. Seminyak No. 34 Seminyak T: 0361 730 308 Gajah Mas Gallery Jl. Pengosekan Ubud T: 0361 976 283 Ganesha Gallery Four Seasons - Jimbaran T: 0361 701 010

Horizon Glassworks Jl. Raya Kengetan Ubud T: 0361 780 4014

Natural Fibre Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan Ubud T: 0361 742 1960

Jenggala Gallery Jl. Uluwatu II - Jimbaran T: 0361 703 311

Pasifika Art Museum Block P - Nusa Dua T: 0361 774 935

Kendra Gallery Jl Drupadi Seminyak T: 0361 736 628

Raka Fine Art Gallery Jl. Raya Mas No. 86 Mas - Ubud T: 0361 974 538

Komaneka Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest Ubud T: 0361 976 090

Richard Meyer Culture Jl. Petitenget No. 2000x Kerobokan T: 0361 744 5179

Low Art Gallery Jl. Raya Ubud T: 081 338 565 962

Sembilan Gallery Jl. A.A Gd Rai Lodtunduh Ubud T: 0361 981 587

Museum Antonio Blanco Jl. Campuhan - Ubud T: 0361 975 502 Museum Puri Lukisan Jl. Raya Ubud T: 0361 975 136

Gaya Fusion of Senses Jl. Raya Sayan - Ubud T: 0361 979 252

Museum Neka and Painting Gallery Jl. Sanggingan Ubud T: 0361 975 034

Genta Fine Art Gallery Jl Raya Lodtunduh - Ubud T: 0361 978 272

Museum Rudana Peliatan Teges Ubud T: 0361 975 779

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Seniwati Gallery Jl. Sriwidari 2B - Ubud T: 0361 975 485 Sika Contemporary Art Gallery Jl. Raya Campuhan - Ubud T: 0361 975 727 Tony Raka Jl. Raya Mas No. 86 Mas Ubud T: 0361 781 6785 Widuri & Sena Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan Ubud T: 0361 978 008

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Art of glass (Horizon Glassworks)

keyaccommodation 100 Sunset Boutique Hotel Jl. Sunset Road No. 100 T: 0361 766 500 Alila Resorts Desa Manggis Karangasem T: 0363 410 11 Desa Melinggih Kelod - Payangan T: 0361 915 963 All Seasons Legian Jl. Padma Utara T: 0361 767 688 Alam Gili Gili Trawangan T: 0361 974 629 Alumbrera Villa Jl. Kuta Poleng Arcade D-5, Kuta T: 0361 759 609 Amandari Jl. Raya Kedewataan T: 0361 975 333 Amankila Jl. Buitan Manggis Karangasem T: 0363 413 33 The Amala Jl. Kunti T: 0361 738 866 Amanusa BTDC Complex Nusa Dua T: 0361 772 333 296

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Amber House Gili Meno T: 0813 3757 9728 Anantara Jl. Dhyana Pura T: 0361 737 773 Anda Amed Bunutan - Amed T: 0363 234 98 Aston Bali Beach Resort & Spa Jl. Pratama 68x Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 773 577 Aston Bali Kuta Resort & Convention Center Jl. Majapahit No. 18 Kuta T: 0361 762 818 Aston Bhavana Private Villas Seminyak Jl. Pangkung Sari Banjar Taman Seminyak T: 0361 730 533

Aston Inn Tuban Jl. Kediri No. 5 Tuban T: 0361 762 828 Aston Kamuela Villas Seminyak Jl. Bali Deli No. 88 Seminyak T: 0361 780 0535 Aston Kuta Hotel & Residence Jl. Wana Segara T: 0361 754 999 Aston Legend Villas Sanur Jl. Cemara 33 Sanur T: 0361 270 567 Ayana Resort & Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera Jimbaran T: 0361 702 222 Ayodya Resort Bali BTDC Complex Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 102

Aston Denpasar Hotel & Convention Centre Jl. Gatot Subroto Barat No. 283 T: 0361 411 999

Arma Resort Jl. Raya Pengosekan Teges Sekawan Ubud T: 0361 973 495

Aston Favehotel Denpasar Jl. Teuku Umar 175-179 T: 0361 232 894

Bagus Jati Villa Banjar Jati Tegallalang Ubud T: 0361 978 885

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297

The BalĂŠ Jl. Nusa Dua Selatan Nusa Dua T: 0361 775 111

Barong Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest Ubud T: 0361 971 759

Bulgari Jl. Goa Lempeh Uluwatu T: 0361 847 1000

Bale @ Bingin & Herawati Bingin Beach T: 081 2394 9822

Batu Karang Nusa Lembongan T: 0366 24 880

The Calyx Jl Tamblingan T: 0361 288 423

BalĂŠ Sampan Gili Trawangan T: 0812 3702 4048

The Beach Club Senggigi Senggigi T: 0370 693 637

Candi Beach Cottage Candidasa T: 0363 41 234

Bali Dynasty Resort Jl. Kartika Plaza - Kuta T: 0361 752 403

The Beach House Gili Trawangan - Lombok T: 0370 642 352

Bali Handara Kosaido Club Bedugul T: 0362 226 46

Benoa Quay Harbourside Villas Tanjung Benoa Harbourside T: 0811 873 442

Bali Hyatt Jl. Danau Tamblingan Sanur T: 0361 281 234 Bali Intercontinental Jl. Uluwatu 45 Jimbaran T: 0361 701 888 Bali Mystique Hotel Jl. Petitenget 2000 Kerobokan T: 0361 730 465 Bali Niksoma Jl. Padma Utara Legian T: 0361 751 946 Bali Padma Hotel Jl. Padma 1 - Legian T: 0361 752 111

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Besakih Resort Jl. Danau Tamblingan Sanur T: 0361 288 423 Biru Meno Gili Meno T: 0813 3975 8968

Casa Indigo Seminyak T: 0361 847 5470 The Chedi Club Jl. Goa Gajah Ubud T: 0361 975 685 Club Med Bali Jl. Lot 6 Nusa Dua Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 521 Coconut Cottages Gili Air - Lombok T: 0370 635 365

Bloo Lagoon Padang Bai T: 0363 41 211

Como Shambhala Estate Banjar Begawan Desa Melinggih Ubud T: 0361 978 888

Blue Marlin Accommodation Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0370 634 387

Conrad Bali Resort & Spa Jl. Pratama 168 Tanjuung Benoa T: 0361 778 788

Bounty Hotel Jl. Segara Batu Bolong Gg. Poppies II Kuta T: 0361 753 030

Crystal Santai Hotel Jl. Danau Tamblingan Sanur T: 0361 286 737

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Damai Villa Kayu Putih - Lovina T: 0362 410 08

The Gangsa Tirta Akasa No. 28 - Sanur T: 0361 270 260

Desa Dunia Beda Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0370 641 575

Gazebo Meno Gili Meno - Lombok T: 0370 635 795

Desa Seni Jl. Kayu Putih - Canggu T: 0361 844 6393 Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel Jl. Kartika Plaza - Kuta T: 0361 751 067

Gending Kedis Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera 100Y Jimbaran T: 0361 708 906 Gili Exotic Villas Gili Trawangan T: 0813 3950 9023

Downtown Villas Jl. Pura Dalem 9D Seminyak T: 0361 736 464

Gili Villas Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0812 3764 780

Dyana Villas Jl. Dhyana Pura Seminyak T: 0361 734 775

Good Heart Gili Meno - Lombok T: 0813 3955 6976

Ebano R&R Bungalows Senggigi T: 0370 693 898 The Elysian Jl. Sari Dewi 18 Seminyak T: 0361 730 999 The Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay T: 0361 701 010 Banjar Kedewataan Sayan - Ubud T: 0361 977 577 Gajah Mina Resort Suraberata - Tabanan T: 0812 381 1630

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Good Heart Bungalows Gili Trawangan T: 0370 630 255 Good Karma Amed T: 0812 3689 090 Grand Bali Beach Jl. Hang Tuah 58 - Sanur T: 0361 288 511

Hai Tide Huts Mushroom Beach Nusa Lembongan T: 0361 720 331 Hard Rock Hotel Jl. Pantai Kuta - Kuta T: 0361 761 869 Harris Resort Jl. Pantai Kuta - Kuta T: 0361 753 868 Heaven on the Planet Ekas Bay - Lombok T: 0812 375 1103 Holiday Resort Lombok Senggigi Beach - Lombok T: 0370 693 444 Hotel Crocodile River Cottage Senggigi - Lombok T: 0370 662 9000 Hotel Gili Air Gili Air - Lombok T: 0370 643 580 Hotel Santika Beach Jl. Kartika Plaza Kuta T: 0361 751 267 Hotel Puri Rai Padang Bai T: 0363 41 385

Grand Hyatt Bali BTDC Complex - Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 234

Inna Grand Bali Beach Jl. Hang Tuah Sanur T: 0361 288 511

Grand Mirage Jl. Pratama - Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 771 888

Inna Kuta Beach Jl. Pantai Kuta 1 - Kuta T: 0361 751 361

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Jayakarta Hotel Jl. Werkudara - Legian T: 0361 751 433 Jayakarta Lombok Senggigi T: 0370 693 045 Kamandalu Resort Jl. Tegallalang Banjar Nagi - Ubud T: 0361 975 825 Karma Kayak Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0818 0364 0538 The Kayana Jl. Raya Petitenget Kerobokan T: 0361 847 6628 Kayumanis Jimbaran Jl. Yoga Perkanti Jimbaran T: 0361 705 777 BTDC Complex Nusa Dua T: 0361 770 777 Banjar Baung Desa Sayan - Ubud T: 0361 972 777 Kelapa Kecil Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0370 632 424 Kelapa Villas Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0812 3756 003 ko-ko-mo Resort Gili Trawangan T: 0370 644 169 300

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Komaneka Tanggayuda Banjar Tanggayuda Kedewataan - Ubud T: 0361 978 123 Kori Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan Campuhan - Ubud T: 0361 972 487 Kupu-Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewataan - Ubud T: 0361 975 478 Kuta Paradiso Hotel Jl. Kartika Plaza - Kuta T: 0361 761 414 The Laguna Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 327 The Legian Jl. Laksmana - Seminyak T: 0361 730 622 Legian Beach Hotel Jl. Melasti - Legian T: 0361 755 460 Legong Keraton Beach Jl. Pantai Berawa Canggu T: 0361 730 280 Le Meridien Nirwana Golf & Spa Resort Jl. Raya Tanah Lot T: 0361 815 900 Lembongan Island Beach Villas The Ridge Nusa Lembongan T: 0366 24 119

Life in Amed Lean Village - Amed T: 0813 385 0155 Luce Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Alma Resort & Spa Gili Trawangan T: 0370 621 777 Mainski Resort Nusa Lembongan T: 0366 244 81 Maliaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Child Gili Meno - Lombok T: 0370 622 007 Manta Dive Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0370 643 649 Gili Air - Lombok T: 0813 5305 0462 Marco Inn Padangbai T: 0859 3537 9066 Matahari Beach Resort Pemuteran - Singaraja T: 0362 923 12 Maxi Hotel & Spa Jl Legian 83A - Kuta T: 0361 754 082 Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sari Ubud T: 0361 977 888 Melia Bali Villas & Spa Resort Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 510

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Suite imperialism (The Laguna Resort & Spa courtesy image)

Menjangan Jungle Beach Resort Jl. Raya Gilimanuk Singaraja T: 0362 947 00 Mercure Hotel Jl. Pantai Kuta - Kuta T: 0361 767 411 Mercure Resort Jl. Mertasari - Sanur T: 0361 288 833 Mimpi Bungalows Tulamben T: 0363 216 42 MU Jl Pantai Bingin T: 0361 742 8249 Natura Resort & Spa Banjar Laplapan Ubud T: 0361 978 666 Nikko Bali Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan T: 0361 773 377 Novotel Jl. Pratama -Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 772 239 BTDC Complex Nusa Dua T: 0361 848 0555 Pantai Putri Nyale Lombok T: 0370 653 333 Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa BTDC Complex Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 210 302

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The Oberoi Medana Beach West Lombok T: 0370 638 444 Ocean Heavan Ekas Bay - Lombok T: 0812 375 1103 Oka Watiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sunset Bungalows Jl Monkey Forest - Ubud T: 0361 973 386 Outrigger O-CE-N Bali Jl. Arjuna 88x Legian T: 0361 737 400 Pacung Mountain Resort Baturiti - Bedugul T: 0368 210 38 Pantai Lima Jl. Srikandi T: 0361 844 4555

Puri Bunga Senggigi - Lombok T: 0370 693 013 Puri Ganesha Villas Pemuteran T: 0362 94 766 Puri Mas Boutique Resort Jl. Raya Senggigi Lombok T: 0370 693 831 Puri Mas Village Senggigi - Mangsit Lombok T: 0370 692 000 Puri Santrian Jl. Danau Tamblingan 63 T: 0361 288 009 Qunci Villas Jl. Raya Mangsit Senggigi - Lombok T: 0370 693 800

Pool Villa Club Senggigi Lombok T: 0370 622 321

Ramada Bintang Bali Resort Jl. Kartika Plaza Kuta T: 0361 753 292

Pondok Baruna Jungut Batu Beach Nusa Lembongan T: 0812 390 0686

Ramayana Resort & Spa Jl. Singosari - Kuta T: 0361 751 864

Pondok Lita Gili Trawangan T: 0361 766 220

Rapture Surf Camp Jl. Labuhan Sait - Bingin T: 0813 375 78261

Poppies Cottages Poppies Lane One No. 19 - Legian T: 0361 751 059

Royal Pitamaha Jl. Raya Kedewataan Ubud T: 0361 980 022

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The Samaya Jl. Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 731 149 Santai Resort Bunutan - Amed T: 0363 234 87 Santika Beach Hotel Jl. Kartika Plaza Kuta T: 0361 751 267 Sanur Beach Hotel Jl. Danau Tamblingan Sanur T: 0361 288 011 Sanur Paradise Plaza Hotel & Suites Jl. Hang Tuah 46 - Sanur T: 0361 281 781 Savana Beach Gili Trawangan T: 0815 585 40 Scallywags Resort Gili Trawangan - Lombok T: 0370 631 945 Secret Garden Bungalows Jungutbatu Beach T: 0813 5313 6861 Sekuta Condo Suites Jl. Sekuta - Sanur T: 0361 289 263 Senggigi Beach Resort Jl. Pantai Senggigi Lombok T: 0370 693 210

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Sentosa Private Villas & Spa Jl. Pura Telaga Waja Petitenget Kerobokan T: 0361 730 333 Seraya Shores Amlapura T: 0813 3874 9108 Serene Villas Jl. Drupadi 22 Seminyak T: 0361 730 899 The Seri Suites Jl. Umalas Kauh T: 0361 730 262 The Seri Villas Jl. Gang Telaga Waja T: 0361 801 3577 Sheraton Senggigi Beach Resort Senggigi T: 0370 693 333 Shack 58/59 Gili Meno Lombok T: 0361 766 220 Shipwrecks Beach Villa Jungutbatu Beach T: 0813 3803 2900 Snapper Bungalows Gili Trawangan T: 0370 624 217 St. Regis BTDC Complex Nusa Dua T: 0361 847 8111

Sunari Villas & Spa Resort Lovina T: 0362 41 658 Taman Sari Bali Pemuteran T: 0362 93 264 Tandjung Sari Hotel Jl. Danau Tamblingan T: 0361 288 441 Tir Na Nog Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0812 3754 778 Tjampuhan Hotel Ubud T: 0361 975 368 Trawangan Dive Gili Trawangan - Lombok T: 0370 649 220 Hotel Tugu Bali Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong Canggu T: 0361 731 701 Hotel Tugu Lombok Sire Beach - Lombok T: 0370 620 111 Ubud Hanging Gardens Desa Buahan - Ubud T: 0361 982 700 Uluwatu Resort Uluwatu T: 0361 769 856 Uma Sapna Jl. Drupadi - Seminyak T: 0361 736 628

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303

Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan T: 0361 972 448

Villa De Daun Jl. Raya Legian 131 T: 0361 756 276

Umalas Resort Jl. Lestari 9X Umalas Kerobokan T: 0361 731 402

Villa Des Indes Jl. Astina Pura 3 Seminyak T: 0361 737 799

The Viceroy Jl. Lanyahan Banjar Nagi - Ubud T: 0361 971 777

Villa Julius Gili Trawangan T: 0819 3675 4186

Waka Gangga Tanah Lot T: 0361 416 257

Villa Karang Gili Air - Lombok T: 0370 637 328

Waka Namya Jl Raya Penestanan Ubud T: 0361 975 719

The Villas Jl Kunti T: 0361 730 840 Villa Air Bali Jl. Lebak Sari Petitenget T: 0361 737 378 Villa Almarik Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0370 638 520 The Villas Bali Hotel & Spa Jl. Kunti Seminyak T: 0361 730 840 Villa Balquisse Jl. Uluwatu Jimbaran T: 0361 737 441 Villa Baruna Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0361 766 220 Villa Coco Jl Double Six T: 0361 730 736 304

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Villa Grasia Resort & Spa Gili Trawangan T: 0370 629 977

Vivalavi Villas & Spa Jl. Mertasari Seminyak T: 0361 847 6028 Waka Di Ume Jl Suweta - Ubud T: 0361 973 178

Waka Nusa Nusa Lembongan T: 0361 723 629

Villa Karisa Jl. Drupadi 100x T: 0361 739 395

Waka Shorea Menjangan T: 0362 946 66

Villa Kubu Jl. Raya Seminyak T: 0361 731 129

Watergarden Candidasa T: 0363 41 540

Villa Lumbung Jl. Raya Petitenget Kerobokan T: 0361 730 204

Wawa Wewe Bunutan - Amed T: 0363 235 22

Villa Nalina Jl. Sari Dewi 27B T: 0361 737 515

The Westin BTDC Complex Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 906

Villa Nautilus Gili Meno T: 0370 642 143

Xanadu Villas Kunti Plaza - Seminyak T: 0361 731 732

Villa Ombak Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0370 642 336

Zen Villas Jl. Kesari 11 Sanur T: 0361 286 129

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Vibrant Gili Villas (courtesy images)

keydining Alcedo @ Gending Kedis Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera 100Y Jimbaran T: 0361 708 906 Arena Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai Sanur T: 0361 287 255 Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud - Ubud T: 0361 975 053 The Balcony Jl Benesari - Kuta T: 0361 750 655 Bali Catering Company Jl. Petitenget Seminyak T: 0361 737 324 Barandi Jl. Hanoman - Ubud T: 0361 975 894 Batan Waru Jl. Dewi Sita Ubud T: 0361 977 528 The Beach House Echo Beach Canggu T: 0361 747 4604 The Beach House Gili Trawangan - Lombok T: 0370 642 352 306

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Beduur Restaurant @ Ubud Hanging Gardens Desa Buahan - Ubud T: 0361 982 700 Bella Rosa @ Padma Hotel Jl. Legian - Legian T: 0361 752 111 Blossom Jl. Pura Telaga Waja Kerobokan T: 0361 730 333 Blue Ocean Jl. Double Six Legian T: 0361 747 2308 Breeze @ The Samaya Jl. Laksmana - Seminyak T: 0361 731 149 Bumbu Bali Jl. Pratama Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 774 502 Café Bali Jl. Laksmana - Seminyak T: 0361 736 484 Café Batu Jimbar Jl. Danau Tamblingan Sanur T: 0361 287 374 Café Moka Jl Raya Banjar Semer Umalas T: 0361 844 5933

Casa Luna Jl. Raya Ubud - Ubud T: 0361 973 283 Cascades Restaurant Jl. Lanyahan Banjar Nagi Ubud T: 0361 971 777 The Cat and Fiddle Jl Cemara - Sanur T: 0361 282 218 Coco’s Gili Trawangan - Lombok T: 0813 3988 2153 Dauh Restaurant @ The Kayana Jl. Petitenget - Seminyak T: 0361 847 6628 Damai Desa Kayu Putih Lovina T: 0362 410 08 Dava @ The Ayana Resort & Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera Jimbaran T: 0361 702 222 Eight Degrees South @ Conrad Bali Jl. Pratama 168 Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 778 788 ESC Jl. Legian 61 - Legian T: 0361 756 362

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Faces @ The Bale Jl. Nusa Dua Selatan Nusa Dua T: 0361 775 111

Indus Jl. Raya Sanggingan Ubud T: 0361 977 684

Fresh Jl. Laksmana - Seminyak T: 0361 736 834

Jazz Café Jl. Sukma - Ubud T: 0361 976 594

Gado Gado Jl. Dhyana Pura 99 Seminyak T: 0361 736 966

The Junction Jl. Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 735 610

Gateway of India Jl. Pantai Kuta 11 - Legian T: 0361 754 463

K2 Jl. Laksmana - Seminyak T: 0361 747 2324

La Lucciola Jl. Kayu Ayu Petitenget Kerobokan T: 0361 730 838

Gili Air Santay Gili Air - Lombok T: 0818 0375 8695

Kafe Batan Waru Jl. Kartika Plaza - Kuta T: 0361 766 303

Lamak Jl. Monkey Forest - Ubud T: 0361 974 668

Gong @ The Gangsa Jl. Yoga Perkanti - Sanur T: 0361 270 260

Kafe Warisan Jl. Raya Kerobokan 38 Kerobokan T: 0361 731 175

La Sal Jl. Drupadi II Seminyak T: 0361 738 321

Kaizan Jl. Laksmana 33 Seminyak T: 0361 747 2324

Lazumba Café Jl. Laksmana 12 Seminyak T: 0361 730 070

Karma Kayak Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0818 0364 0538

Lemon Grass Jl. Raya Seminyak Seminyak T: 0361 736 149

Khaima Jl. Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 742 3925

L’Ermitage & Gypsy Jazz Club Bali Collection Nusa Dua T: 0361 807 1177

Grocer & Grind Jl. Kayu Jati 3X Petitenget Kerobokan, T: 0361 730 418 Hard Rock Café Jl Pantai Kuta - Kuta T: 0361 755 661 Husk @ Sofitel Bali Jl. Dhyana Pura T: 0361 730 730 Ibu Oka Jl Tegal Sari - Ubud T: 0361 976 343) Il Ristorante @ Bulgari Jl. Goa Lempeh - Uluwatu T: 0361 847 1000

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KO @ Intercontinental Bali Resort Jl. Uluwatu - Jimbaran T: 0361 701 888

Kori Restaurant Poppies Lane 2 - Kuta T: 0361 758 605 Ku De Ta Jl. Laksmana 9 Seminyak T: 0361 736 969 ko-ko-mo Gili Trawangan T: 0370 644 169

The Living Room Jl. Petitenget 2000x Kerobokan T: 0361 735 735

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307

Lotus Seaview Restaurant Candidasa T: 0363 412 57

Nomad Jl. Raya Ubud 35 Ubud T: 0361 977 169

Made’s Warung Jl. Raya Seminyak Seminyak T: 0361 732 130

Nusa Dua Beach Grill Pantai Geger - Nusa Dua T: 0361 7434 779

Ma Joly Jl. Wana Segara - Tuban T: 0361 753 780

Nutmegs Jl. Oberoi - Seminyak T: 0361 736 443

Mannekepis Jl. Raya Seminyak 2 Seminyak T: 0361 847 5784

Nyoman Warung Nusa Lembongan T: 0852 3786 8588

Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan Ubud T: 0361 975 768 Murni’s Warung Campuhan - Ubud T: 0361 975 233 Mykonos Jl. Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 733 253 Nacho Mama Jl Sanggingan - Ubud T: 0361 977 547 Naugthy Nuri’s Warung & Grill Jl. Sanggingan Ubud T: 0361 977 547 Nero Restaurant Jl. Legian Kelod 384 Legian T: 0361 750 756 308

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Ocean Terrace @ The Laguna BTDC Complex Lot N2 Nusa Dua, T: 0361 771 327 O’India Jl. Sunset Road Barat 3 - Kuta T: 0361 744 4222 Osteria Telese Jl. Laksmana 14 T: 0361 734 566 Padi @ The Ayana Resort & Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera Jimbaran T: 0361 702 222 Pesona Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0818 0549 4876 PJ’s @ Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay T: 0361 701 010

Playgrounds Nusa Lembongan T: 0366 245 24 Poppies Poppies Lane one Kuta T: 0361 751 059 Queen’s of India Jl. Kartika Plaza Tuban T: 0361 765 988 Queen’s Tandoor Jl. Raya Seminyak 73 Seminyak T: 0361 732 770 Raja’s @ Nusa Dua Beach Hotel BTDC Complex Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 120 River Café @ Maya Ubud Jl. Peliatan - Ubud T: 0361 977 888 Rumours Jl. Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 747 5868 Ryoshi Jl. Raya Seminyak 15 Seminyak T: 0361 731 152 Jl. Raya Tuban Kuta T: 0361 766 302 Jl. Raya Ubud - Ubud T: 0361 972 192 Jl. Danau Tamblingan Sanur T: 0361 288 473

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Sarong Jl. Petitenget 19X Kerobokan T: 0361 737 809 Sea Salt Restaurant Alila Manggis T: 0363 410 11 Scallywags Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0370 631 945 Spice @ Conrad Bali Jl. Pratama 168 Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 778 788 Sticky Fingers Echo Beach T: 0361 809 0903 Suku @ Conrad Bali Jl. Pratama 168 T: 0361 778 788 The Tao Bali Jl. Pratama 96 Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 772 902 Tapis Restaurant @ Kayumanis BTDC Complex Nusa Dua T: 0361 770 777

Thai Kitchen @ Paulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Place Jl. Petitenget Seminyak T: 0361 733 886 The Three Monkeys Jl. Hanoman Ubud T: 0361 975 554 Tir Na Nog Gili Trawangan T: 0812 3754 778 TJâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Poppies Lane I Kuta T: 0361 751 093 Tuesday Night Pizza Club Jl. Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 730 614 Tugu Dining @ Hotel Tugu Bali Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong Canggu T: 0361 731 701

Terazzo Jl. Suweta - Ubud T: 0361 978 941

Tugu Dining @ Hotel Tugu Lombok Sire Beach - Lombok T: 0370 620 111 Ultimo Jl. Laksmana 104x Seminyak T: 0361 738 720

The Terrace @ Amanusa BTDC Complex Nusa Dua, T: 0361 772 333

Vila Ombak Restaurant Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0370 642 336

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The Village Jl. Danau Tamblingan 47 - Sanur T: 0361 285 025 Warung Bale Bali Jl. Kunti 4B Seminyak T: 0361 732 731 Warung Enak Jl. Pengosekan - Ubud T: 0361 972 911 Warung Italia Jl. Kunti Seminyak T: 0361 737 437 Warung Rakuan Asia Bingin T: 0813 3753 2663 Warung Sobat Jl. Batu Belig Kerobokan T: 0361 738 922 Watergarden Candidasa T: 0363 415 40 Wicked Parrot Jl. Danau Tamblingan Sanur T: 0361 281 814 Wild Orchid @ Anantara Jl. Abimanyu Seminyak T: 0361 737 773 Wrap a Snapper Gili Trawangan - Lombok T: 0370 642 352

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309

keybars & clubs Apache Reggae Bar Jl. Legian 146 - Kuta T: 0361 761 213 Arena Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai Sanur T: 0361 287 255 Bacio Jl. Double Six Seminyak T: 0361 802 7174 Bahiana Jl. Dhyana Pura Seminyak T: 0361 738 662 The Beach House Echo Beach Canggu T: 0361 747 4604 The Bounty Jl. Legian - Kuta T: 0361 752 529 BuGils Bali Jl. Dewi Sartika Tuban T: 0361 738 662 Cat & Fiddle Jl. Cemara 29 Sanur T: 0361 282 218 Centrestage @ Hard Rock Hotel Jl. Pantai Kuta Kuta T: 0361 761 869 310

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De Ja Vu Jl. Double Six Seminyak T: 0361 732 777

Hu’u Bar Jl. Oberoi Petitenget Seminyak T: 0361 736 443

Deejay Club Jl. Kartika Plaza - Kuta T: 0361 753 188

Hypnotique Jl. Laksmana Seminyak T: 0361 732 202

Double Six Club Jl. Double Six - Seminyak T: 0361 734 300 Eikon Jl. Legian 178 - Kuta T: 0361 750 701 Espresso Bar Jl. Legian 83 - Kuta T: 0361 752 576 Gossip Senggigi - Lombok T: 0370 693 432 Gracie Kelly’s Jl. Kartika Plaza Kuta T: 0361 752 403 Hard Rock Café Jl. Pantai Kuta - Kuta T: 0361 755 661 Home Jl. Oberoi 3 Seminyak T: 0361 862 0455 Horizontal Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0813 3971 0451

Jati Bar @ Four Season Jl. Raya Sayan - Ubud T: 0361 977 577 Jazz Café Jl. Sukma - Ubud T: 0361 976 594 Kamasutra Jl. Pantai Kuta - Kuta T: 0361 761 999 Ku De Ta Jl. Laksmana 9 Seminyak T: 0361 736 969 KuVé Jl. Laksmana 9 Seminyak T: 0361 736 969 The Living Room Jl. Petitenget Seminyak T: 0361 735 735 The Lounge at Contiki Jl. Dhyana Pura 66 Seminyak T: 0361 730 573

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311

M Bar Go Jl. Legian - Kuta T: 0361 756 280 Maccaroni Club Jl. Legian Kuta T: 0361 754 662 Marina Pub Senggigi Lombok T: 0370 693 136 Mix Well Jl. Dhyana Pura 6 Seminyak T: 0361 736 846 Mozaic Lounge Jl. Sanggingan Ubud T: 0361 975 768 Musro Jl. Kartika Plaza Kuta T: 0361 764 582 My Room Jl. Legian 60 - Kuta T: 0361 750 412 Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Sanggingan Ubud T: 0361 977 547 Obsesion Jl. Dhyana Pura Seminyak T: 0361 730 269 The Office Senggigi Lombok T: 0370 693 842 312

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Ozigo Jl. Raya Sanggingan Ubud T: 0361 974 724

Sky Garden Jl. Legian 61 Kuta T: 0361 756 362

Paddy’s Jl. Legian 166 Kuta T: 0361 758 555

SOS Beach @ Anantara Jl. Dhyana Pura - Seminyak T: 0361 737 773

Padi-Padi Jl. Sunset Road 88 Kuta T: 0361 764 788

Square Lounge Senggigi - Lombok T: 0370 664 5999

Planet Hollywood Bali Galeria Mall, Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai Kuta T: 0361 757 827 Red Square Bali @ The Legian Nirwana Jl. Pantai Kuta T: 0361 238 781 Rock Bar @ The Ayana Resort & Spa Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera Jimbaran T: 0361 702 222 Santa Fe Jl. Dhyana Pura Seminyak T: 0361 731 147 Scallywags Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0370 631 945 Sector Bar & Restaurant Jl. Hang Tuah 58 Sanur T: 0361 287 733

Stadium Café Jl. Kartika Plaza Kuta T: 0361 763 100 Stadium Padma Jl. Padma Legian Kuta T: 0361 751 864 Syndicate Jl. Double Six Seminyak T: 0361 756 666 Tir Na Nog Gili Trawangan Lombok T: 0812 3754 778 The Wave Jl. Pantai Kuta 1 Kuta T: 0361 760 068 Wawa Wewe Amed T: 0363 235 22 Zappas Jl. Laksmana 54B Seminyak T: 0361 742 5534

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Shaken not stirred (Sky Garden courtesy image)

keywellbeing Ayur Spa @ The Kayana Jl. Petitenget - Seminyak T: 0361 847 6628

Kriya @ The Grand Hyatt Bali BTDC Complex - Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 234

Spa @ The Samaya Jl. Laksmana - Seminyak T: 0361 731 149

Chill Reflexology @ The Villas Jl. Kunti 118X - Seminyak T: 0361 730 840

Luxe Lounge Spa @ Sentosa Private Villas & Spa Jl. Pura Telaga Waja Petitenget - Kerobokan T: 0361 730 333

Spa Alila @ Alila Ubud Payangan - Ubud T: 0361 974 963

Cozy Jl. Sunset Road - Kuta T: 0361 766 762 DaLa Spa @ Villa De Daun Jl. Raya Legian Kuta T: 0361 756 276 Espace Spa Jl. Raya Seminyak Seminyak T: 0361 730 828 Jiwa Spa @ Conrad Bali Jl. Pratama 168 Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 778 788 Kamandalu Spa @ Kamandalu Resort Jl. Tegallalang Banjar Nagi Ubud T: 0361 975 285 Kayumanis Spa @ Kayumanis Villas Ubud Desa Sayan - Ubud T: 0361 972 777 314

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M’Spa @ Paul’s Place Jl. Laksmana - Seminyak T: 0361 736 910 Jl. Petitenget - Seminyak T: 0361 733 886 Jl. Raya Pengosekan Ubud T: 0361 971 220 Manik Jl. Raya Legian T: 0361 761 147 Dynasty Resort T: 0361 752 403 Nusa Dua Spa @ Nusa Dua Beach Hotel BTDC Complex Nusa Dua T: 0361 771 210

Spa Alila @ Alila Manggis Desa Buitan Manggis Karangasem T: 0363 410 11 Spa On The Rocks Ayana Resort & Spa Jimbaran T: 0361 702 222 Spa Venus Gang Plawa 33F Seminyak T: 0361 731 129 The Spa @ The Balé Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan T: 0361 775 111

Puri Mas Spa Senggigi - Mangsit T: 0370 693 831

The Spa @ Hotel Tugu Bali Jl. Batu Bolong Canggu T: 0361 731 701

Prana Spa @ The Villas Jl. Kunti 118x Seminyak T: 0361 730 840

The Spa @ Hotel Tugu Lombok Hotel Tugu Lombok Sire Beach T: 0370 620 111

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315 Turkish delight (Prana Spa at The Villas courtesy image)

keyconsulates Australia (Including Canada & New Zealand) Jl. Tantular 32 Renon Denpasar T: 0361 241 118 Austria Jl. Pura Bagus Teruna Legian T: 0361 751 735 Brazil (Honorary Consulate) By The Sea Store Jl. Legian 186 2nd Fl Kuta T: 0361 757 775 Chile (Honorary Consulate) Jl. Pengembak Gg. 1/3 T: 0361 756 781 Czech Republic (Honorary Consulate) Jl. Pengembak 17 Sanur T: 0361 286 465 Denmark & Norway (Honorary Consulate) Mimpi Resort Kawasan Bukit Permai Jimbaran T: 0361 701 070 France (Consular Agency) Jl. Mertasari Gg. II No. 8 Sanur T: 0361 285 485 316

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Germany Jl. Pantai Karang 17 Sanur T: 0361 288 535

Singapore Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said Jakarta T: 021 520 1489

Hungary (Honorary Consulate) Marintur, Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 219 Sanur T: 0361 287 701

Spain (Honorary Consulate) Jl. Raya Sanggingan Br. Lungsiakan Ubud T: 0361 975 736

Italy (Vice Consulato) Lotus Enterprise Building Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai T: 0361 701 005 Japan Jl. Raya Puputan 170 Renon - Denpasar T: 0361 227 628 Malaysia Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said Jakarta T: 021 522 4947 Mexico (Honorary Consulate) Jl. Prof. Moh. Yamin 1 A Renon T: 0361 223 266 Netherlands (Honorary Consulate) Jl. Raya Kuta 127 T: 0361 761 506 Russia Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said Jakarta T: 021 522 2912

Sweden & Finland (Honorary Consulate) Jl. Segara Ayu Sanur T: 0361 288 407 Switzerland & Austria (Consulate) Jl. Patih Jelantik Kompleks Istana Kuta Galeria Blok Velvet 2 No. 12 - Kuta T: 0361 751 735 United Kingdom (Honorary Consulate) Jl. Tirta Nadi 20 Sanur T: 0361 270 601 USA (Consular Agency) Jl. Hayam Wuruk 188 Tanjung Bungkak Denpasar T: 0361 233 605

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Working weekend (James Watling)

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keytransport Air Bali Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai 100x T: 0361 767 466 Bagus Car Rentals Jl. Duyung 1 Sanur T: 0361 287 794 Bali Car Hire Jl. Raya Petitenget 76C - Kerobokan T: 0361 746 0022 Bali Happy Rent Car Jl. Raya Kuta 72X Kuta T: 0361 411 499 Bali Hai Cruises Benoa Harbour T: 0361 720 331 Bali Limousine Jl. Gatot Subroto Barat T: 0361 744 7877 Bali Trip Car Rental Jl. Raya Sayan 1X Ubud, T: 0361 974 923 Blue Bird Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai Jimbaran T: 0361 701 111 Blue Water Cruises Benoa Harbour T: 0817 343 168

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Blue Water Express Benoa Marina T: 0361 281 756

Island Promotions Poppies Lane One T: 0361753 241

Bounty Cruises Benoa Harbour T: 0361 726 666

Mahi Mahi Fun Fast Boat Nusa Indah T: 0361 877 6599

Dewata Karya Jl. Danau Beratan Gg. X/3 C Sanur T: 0361 745 6003 Garuda Indonesia Ngurah Rai Air Port T: 0804 180 7807 Gilicat Island Express Jl. Danau Tamblingan T: 0361 271 680 Garlic Jl. Sunset Road T: 0361 736 899 Golden Bird Bali Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai Nusa Dua 4 T: 0361 702 000

Manacika Bali Jl. Penestanan T: 0361 979 131 Pamala Catamaran Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai T: 0361 780 0293 Perama Tours Jl. Legian - Kuta T: 0361 751 551 Ombak Putih Jl. Kuta Poleng D7 Setiabudi T: 0361 766 269 Sea Trek Jl. By Pass Ngurah Rai T: 0361 283 358

J.A. Rent Car Perum Jadi Pesona T: 0361 744 0152

Surya Bali Car Rentals Jl. Nakula Gg. Baik-Baik 10x T: 0361 733 199

Jaya Jl. Petitenget T: 0361 732 760

Trans Nusa Jl. Sunset T: 0361 847 7395

Island Getaway Nusa Indah T: 0361 878 5892

Wayan Rent Car Canggu T: 0361 780 2743

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Hot air high jinks (BTDC courtesy image)

keyairlines Air France Jl. Hang Tuah Sanur T: 0361 287 734 Air New Zealand Ngurah Rai International Airport Tuban T: 0361 756 170 Air Asia Ngurah Rai International Airport Tuban T: 0361 755 799 British Airways Grand Bali Beach Hotel - Sanur T: 0361 288 511 Cathay Pacific Wisti Sabha Bld, 2nd fl. Ngurah Rai International Airport Tuban T: 0361 766 931 China Airlines Ngurah Rai International Airport Tuban T: 0361 754 856 Continental Airlines Ngurah Rai International Airport Tuban T: 768 358, 768 360

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Garuda Indonesia Ngurah Rai International Airport Tuban T: 0361 751 011

Merpati Nusantara Airlines Jl. Melati 51 Denpasar T: 0361 263 918

Indonesia Air Tansport Ngurah Rai Domestic Airport Tuban T: 0361 759 768

Orient Thai Airlines Bali Gardenia Resort Nusa Dua T: 0361 773 808

Japan Airline & Japan Asia Airways Grand Bali Beach Hotel Sanur T: 0361 287 577 KLM Royal Dutch Airlines Ngurah Rai International Airport Tuban T: 0361 756 126 Lion Air Beo Kompleks Burung Tuban T: 0361 765 183

Qantas Grand Bali Beach Hotel Jl. Danau Tamblingan Sanur T: 0361 288 331 Qatar Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel Tuban Kuta T: 0361 752 222 Royal Brunei Airlines Ngurah Rai International Airport Tuban T: 0361 757 292

Malaysian Airlines Grand Bali Beach Hotel - Sanur T: 0361 288 716

Singapore Airlines Ngurah Rai International Airport Kuta T: 0361 768 388

Mandala Airlines Jl. Diponegoro Denpasar T: 0361 222 751

Trans Nusa Airlines Jl. Sunset Road Kuta T: 0361 760 218

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Boarding all gates to Bali (Air Asia courtesy image)

Under sail (Jaya courtesy image)

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keyhealth Visiting a new country can present some challenges to tourists, so doing a few simple things to protect your health will ensure that you enjoy your vacation. Most importantly though, have a safe and happy holiday in Bali. food hygiene

It is a good idea to have some alcohol based hand wash with you for places where soap and water may not be available. It is best to choose freshly cooked foods rather than foods that have been standing for some time. Interestingly, one of the most common causes of food poisoning can be rice, as it is often cooked early in the day and then left sitting in a pot for hours on end and bacteria love it. Avoid raw meat and fish and ensure that meat is cooked thoroughly, especially chicken. Salads are tasty but make sure the leaves are washed thoroughly in clean bottled water or boiled water before eating and aim to have your fruit and vegetables peeled before eating. The tap water is not safe for drinking.

dehydration

The weather is hot and steamy which means that you will lose a lot of fluid and salt through sweat when you are outside. Air conditioning can also dehydrate the skin and the delicate lining of the nose and the respiratory system. Make sure you drink enough to compensate for this fluid loss. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget that while you sweat you also lose salt from your body so you need to replace this your diet will provide some salt replacement but also you can also buy isotonic drinks in the shops. These drinks are the local

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equivalent of Lucozade or Gatorade so it is good to add this to your fluid replacement. The sun is very strong in Indonesia and so, even when there is cloud cover, you can easily get sunburned. Make sure you use sun cream before you leave your room and also reapply regularly during the day and particularly after swimming. the traffic

Although in some parts of the island cars do not drive very fast due to the narrow roads and traffic, motorbikes are everywhere and will use every available space to force their way through. Pavement space is limited and where it is available it is not limited to use by pedestrians. Be alert at all times if you are walking because the road users may not be paying careful attention. Many tourists in Bali hire motorbikes; helmets are required by law in Indonesia and should be worn at all times whilst riding. A valid international or Indonesian licence should also be held if you are hiring or riding a motorbike. There are many motorbike accidents in Bali frequently resulting in serious injury, so if you have travel insurance the insurance company will want to know if you hold a valid driving licence for the country, and if you were wearing a helmet before providing any medical expenses coverage.

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In brief, there is a number of mosquito borne diseases in Indonesia, although in Bali the disease most seen is Dengue Fever. With all mosquito borne diseases the only guaranteed protection is not to be bitten. Wear a good mosquito repellent, use mosquito coils and pay attention to exposed areas of skin such as ankles and lower legs.

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keymedical BIMC Hospitals Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 100x Kuta T: 0361 761 263

International SOS Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 505X Kuta T: 0361 710 505

Nusa Dua Dental Clinic Jl. Pratama 81 A Tanjung Benoa T: 0361 771 324

Global Chiropractic Istana Kuta Galeria Valet 2 No. 16 Kuta T: 0361 769 279

Kasih Ibu Hospital Jl. Teuku Umar 120 Denpasar T: 0361 233 036

Sanglah Public Hospital Denpasar T: 0361 227 911

Kuta Clinic Jl. Raya Kuta Kuta T: 0361 753 268

Ubud Clinic Jl. Raya Campuhan 36 Ubud T: 0361 974 911

Graha Asih Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai T: 0361 764 860

A turn for the worse (Inwater courtesy image)

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keysteps to property investment Love Bali? Who doesn’t? Serious about buying into a lifestyle that many already enjoy? Want to capitalize on investment opportunities that yield ever increasing dividends? Well then you need to learn the steps of successfully acquiring property or land in this very special part of the world. Here at The Island Key we’ve worked with leading figures in the property industry in Bali to bring you the steps you need to buy with confidence and in the knowledge that your investment is safe, secure and most importantly - right for you.

step 1

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The first stage of investing is down to you as the buyer - be sure of your budget and know the maximum upper limit you are comfortable in investing; a little flexibility doesn’t hurt but be realistic and most importantly honest with your financial standing. Finding a reputable and established estate agent is as simple as following your instincts and using common sense. Don’t rush the process, enjoy the experience and take the time to check out as many of the companies operating in Bali as you can. You’ll soon get a good feel for the market and with whom you would wish to do business. Trust your judgement when it comes to selecting a company that is professionally run. The more established companies are easily recognisable and there’s a reason why they are in business - a long list of satisfied clients. Ask questions, find out how long the company has been in business, how many clients they have assisted, run some research on the internet to get some background on who you’re dealing with. Staff and agents should be knowledgeable, relaxed and friendly and should be able to take the time to sit and listen to you. Only www.theislandkey.com

deal with agents who display a confident and detailed knowledge of the current opportunities on the market, offer impartial and relevant information that matches your needs and aren’t interested in promoting only their interest. Building this relationship with your agent is key to forging a successful working relationship. step 2

step 3

step 4

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There’s a lot of glitz, glamour and hype in the villa buying scene in Bali and you’re not interested in buying into that; you want the facts, presented clearly and honestly to suit your needs. Meet more than once or twice, build a gradual relationship over time and the right agent for you will respect you as a cautious and careful investor and will be there to support you every step of the way. It’s a buyer’s market in Bali and the best agent is always the best listener. There’s nothing more important than what you, the client, need. Make sure both the company and the representative fully understand your needs and are able to present you with a variety of options for every taste and budget. Make sure the agent researches your needs as a buyer, as both parties need to be comfortable with what the other can provide. Are you buying as a financial investment or as a lifestyle investment? How often do you want to stay in Bali, if at all? Are you buying to live here for a large proportion of your time or as an investment with a realistic return on your investment? Get out there! Learn as much about each property as possible by visiting sites and villas - this is absolutely paramount for investing with peace of mind. The right company and your agent should be there to accompany you on all site visits and be happy to spend www.theislandkey.com

considerable time answering all your queries. Your agent should be able to explain all the amenities and facilities available in the area in which you want to invest with a great degree of knowledge - this is one way to ascertain the experience the company and the agent has in their field of business. If you’re looking for a Bali lifestyle with all the restaurants, bars and shops right on your doorstep look no further than Seminyak and the surrounding areas out towards Canggu. For a more rapid growth potential in an investment scenario look further afield, research the island properly and if possible spend some time in your chosen location. Bali is changing every day and development is booming, so make sure that the area you wish to invest in today will still retain the characteristics that attracted you in the first place five years from now. How do you do this? Easy - ask your agent! Research the internet, compare your findings and if you’re 100% satisfied you’re on the right track move on to the next step. step 5

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Don’t settle for second best - ever. Make a wish list for your property and check each facility at every location. Don’t compromise on your requirements; keep looking if you’re not satisfied with the specifications or potential of one option - there is always a property that is perfect for every type of buyer. If you are buying off plan many developers will accommodate a degree of personalisation into the design of the property, so get creative. Bali has a wonderful wealth of artisans producing an incredible variety of work that will define the personalised style of your investment at prices that are almost embarrassingly affordable. Follow the lead of the export community in Bali and go to the source for your purchases - that means heading to the stonemasons and woodcarvers of Gianyar for the best deals and to the hills and tiny galleries of Ubud for some of the most competitively priced artwork to kit out your investment in affordable style. www.theislandkey.com

step 6

step 7

step 8

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Negotiate. Never be afraid to ask your agent to push for a more competitive price. If you’ve done your research (which you have) you’ll have a really good feel for the market at this stage and be confident enough to start making some savings. You’re well on your way now, but don’t get ahead of yourself - check the small print in your contract. Legal matters. The company and agent should recommend the best legal advice available and make introductions. Have all the ownership laws explained by the lawyer, build a relationship with your lawyer (there are Western lawyers here in Bali who specialise exclusively in property and land matters and know the intricate ins and outs of an ever changing ownership climate). Never rush into anything without really investing your time in understanding the legalities of property and land ownership in Indonesia. If you’re making a lifestyle investment and wish to spend time living on the island then check the legality of mid to longterm stay visas and the options available for you if you’re wishing to run or start a business. Your agent will be able to refer you to companies operating on the island that arrange all visa documentation for almost any need. Pay a little extra and don’t try to save a buck with visa agents, you need to know that you are 100% legal in Bali and not find yourself on the wrong side of the immigration laws. Check into your insurance policies and make sure those are up to date and maintained. You’ve done it. Congratulations and welcome to the Bali lifestyle. Relax and enjoy your new villa investment.