Trendforecastingmagazine

DEC 16 ISSUE NO. 01

FORECAST

SEX, GENDER BODY TREND INFLUENCES ON FASHION

TEXTILES

FINE

&

HISTORICAL

ART

Z ANA BAYNE

Is pushing boundaries -Designer to watch

REVOLUTIONTHE NEW WORLD OF BARBIE

S U S AN N E VEN B RU X

Interview about 'Fragile - don't drop' .

N ICO LA PEPELET T ERE

Meet the artist in his London-studio.

TEXTILES

All about skins and surfaces seen in modern art.

COLOURS

STYLE

&

FASHION

SEX, GENDER AND BODY TREND INFLUENCES ON FASHION

FORECAST CONTENTS

by Anika Umhey

INTRODUCTION

,

Sex

.3

Gender and Body Trend influences on fashion

p

SEX, GENDER AND BODY TREND-CONEMPORARY SUBJECTS Style phenomenon

,

Accessories

-

The new sexiness in cities night life

trims and embellishment

Design inspiration

Textiles report

Colour report

-

-

- "Fragile-

,

Gender

Zana Bayne

don't drop" by Susanne Venbrux

Staying neutral by being nude

-

-

&

V

:

A Undressed

Body shape Revolution

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.7

p

.9

p

.13

p

.17

p

Meet the artist Nicola Peppelettere

Historical Art Exhibition

,

,

Designer to watch

All about skins and surfaces seen in modern art

Fine Art Exhibition

Sex

-

.5

p

.19

p

A Brief History of Underwear

The new world of Barbie

.23

p

.25

p

REFLECTIVE SUMMARY The impact on fashion and future perspective

BIBLIOGRAPHY

p

.27

.29

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(Titel photo, Nina Raasch Photoexhibition, Berlin 2016)

Introduction SEX, GENDER AND BODY TREND INFLUENCES ON FASHION Aesthetically pleasing beauty was considered critical for the fashion industry.

Anti-fashion, anti-beauty, the downfall of ‘beauty’ is a big issue fashion houses face today.

“Beauty is diverse and you don’t have to be a certain stereotype to be beautiful” – British Model, Joan Smalls

What defines beauty? Is “ugliness” the only way to stand out?

In fact, the rise of “anti-beauty” could be seen as a reaction against the existing over-retouched images of perfection, the world of Instagram that overwhelm consumers from everywhere in culture, from the 'Kardashians' and lactose-free living to perfect 'Scandihomes', and retouching 'selfie apps'. (Eror, 2016) Why does ‘ugliness’/ ‘diversity’ still not have a leading impact in fashion, while it can be found everywhere in real life?

This Trend forecast focuses on attraction and activism, the encouragement of female diversity and individuality in times of standardised definitions of sex, gender and body shape.

Stereotypes that are promoted via social media. It proves that courageousness to ‘be ugly’ isn’t the only way to be different, it reveals female aesthetics that have always been around, but were banned in advertising and the glamorous fashion scene in order to keep its glamorous appearances.

“The new Trend is ‘noveau moche’ (engl. new ugliness)” - Martin Margiela (Ugelvig, 2016)

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(AU, Berlin 2016)

“BEAUTY IS DIVERSE AND YOU DON’T HAVE TO BE A CERTAIN STEREOTYPE TO BE BEAUTIFUL” BRITISH MODEL-JOAN SMALLS

(Bon Mag-Issue 71, 2016)

(AU, Weißensee Berlin, 2016)

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(AU, Berghain Berlin,2016)

Style phenomenon The new sexiness in cities night life SEX,

GENDER

AND

BODY

TREND

INFLUENCES

ON

FASHION

Clubs like Berghain in Berlin and Nyx in Amsterdam attract a vanguard group of young people who enjoy partying and dress sexy, in a way never seen before. Magical places that offer space-to-be to people of all walks and talks, no matter whether straight or gay.

Dress code being different, being weird is okay.

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The style is a rebellion against the stereotype club crowd in high heels, short tight dresses and perfect contouring make-up.

Although sharing this philosophy, the main distinction is that people in Berghain dress exclusively black, while people in Nyx dress colourful.

Key factors for getting into Berghain, known for the strictest door policy in Europe are. no smiling, (pretending) being on drugs and looking bored – appear cool.

Once youngsters get into the mysterious underworld of Berghain

(AU, Nyx Amsterdam,2016)

mobile phone lenses will be covered by a sticker, no picture taking and no phones are allowed on the dance floor. A measure Berghain takes to keep up their mysterious reputation, banish Instagram, Hashtags and Co. So called darkrooms, having sex in bathrooms and people dancing naked are no rarity. It is a world with no social, no sexual boundaries, 24 hours, Friday to Monday. Berghain even provides food for clubbers to dive into this surreal world for up to three days.

The style of the ‘Berghainers’ is inspired by sadomasochism.

(Czienskowski, 2014) While in Nyx craziness is rather less defined by drugs, goth-fetish and darkness, but by glitter, coloured wigs and paradisiac but fetish creations. (Nyx, 2016)

(AU, before Berghain Berlin,2016)

Both extravagant club scenes have one thing in common, a message to the socially adequate society -

FEELING CONFIDENT AND HAPPY IN YOUR OWN SKIN IS REGARDED THE MOST SEXY AND SUGGEST FREEDOM IN EVERY RESPECT. BEING DIFFERENT WITH A TOUCH OF FETISH IS COOL.

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(AU, Party Berlin,2016)

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Accessories, trims and embellishment Designer to watch, Zana Bayne SEX,

GENDER

AND

BODY

TREND

INFLUENCES

ON

FASHION

These new club scenes redefine BDSM (Bondage, Discipline/ Dominance, Submission/Sadism, Masochism) accessories, trims and embellishment. (Roffey, 2011) Necklaces made of genuine leather and metal rings, body leather straps, lace, net and latex bodices – eroticism that reflects sensuousness, which BDSM accessories provide for the female body and compliment their personality.

To create the mysterious look, feathers, leather fringes and metal chains in any possible variation are used as embellishments.

The post-fetish NYC based Designer Zana Bayne designs high quality and inventive SM-punk inspired accessories created to layer over any wardrobe. Bayne has collaborated with Marc Jacobs, Comme de Garçons and recently with high street giant & other stories. In her collections and collaborations Bayne pushes boundaries while creating something completely new. SMinspired, fashionable day-to-day wear. (Bayne, 2016) This unconventional scene gains attraction through her designs and finds a new acceptance in society.

"LEATHER IS ALWAYS GOING TO HAVE A BONDAGE CONNOTATION, BUT I'M FINDING DIFFERENT WAYS TO PLAY WITH IT." Z A N A B A Y N E - I D M A G A Z I N E

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(AU, &otherstories London 2016)

(AU, Daluma Berlin, 2016)

(AU, &otherstories London, 2016)

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(AU, 'Fragile' Backstage Arnhem, 2014)

Design inspiration 'Fragile - don't drop'

by Susanne Venbrux SEX,

GENDER

AND

BODY

TREND

INFLUENCES

ON

FASHION

Susanne Venbrux, a graduate Fashion Design student of ArtEZ Hogeschool voor de Kunsten. Her graduate collection “Fragile- don’t drop” was presented in June 2014 in Arnhem, Netherlands. Her design and theme was very powerful, impressive and remained in today’s mind.

In a personal interview Susanne talks about inspiration for her designs.

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Umhey: “What has inspired you to create “Fragile- don’t drop?”

Venbrux: “The first vision of “Fragile” developed with a series of tragic family situations. While I was looking for inspiration my cousin died in a car accident and my mum got diagnosed with breast cancer. These two painful events were difficult to come to terms with, while I was trying to create something beautiful. This dilemma developed into my theme, combining fragility and beauty.

One morning I saw an elegant woman trying to catch a train.

While running for it, her bracelet tore off and all the pearls spilled on the platform. Her obvious pain of losing something

(AU, 'Fragile' Backstage Arnhem, 2014)

she loves in combination with her elegant appearance, was exactly the kind of fragility I wanted to express in my designs.”

Umhey: “Your designs mainly include draping around women's bodies. How much of a role does body shape and sexiness play?”

Venbrux: “Commercial sexiness wasn’t my intension at all.

I started draping with sheer, luxurious silk chiffons and pongees, which represented the fragility of humans' vulnerable shell -our skin.

The draping supports the agility of feminine curves and flatter the elegant movements of women in a very authentic way. When my designs were in the final phase an extraordinary aura of sexiness shined through.

(AU, 'Fragile' Backstage Arnhem, 2014)

An indirect sexiness which developed through authenticity and personality.” (Venbrux, 2016a) Susanne Venbrux, captured the female beauty in a very special and elegant way by showing female nudity; the fragility of human beings. Her designs show, that sexiness does not only have to be low cut necklines and heavy makeup. It presents that authentic, natural women with personality and individuality are attractive-sexy in themselves.

Follow Susanne Venbrux: http://www.susannevenbrux.com

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(AU, 'Fragile' Backstage Arnhem, 2014)

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(Susanne Venbrux, 'Fragile' Arnhem, 2014)

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(Susanne Venbrux, 'Fragile' Arnhem, 2014)

(Susanne Venbrux, 'Fragile' Arnhem, 2014)

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(AU, TateModern London, 2016)

Textiles report all about skins and textured surfaces seen in modern Art SEX,

GENDER

AND

BODY

TREND

INFLUENCES

ON

FASHION

The current Exhibition in London’s Tate Modern (Boiler House Level 4) presents abstract paintings, fascinating photography and artworks of diverse surfaces created by different artists.

Guy Bourdin experiments with thick cracked layers of colour, which remind of human fragility. A broken shell showing a vulnerable inside.

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The clotty pigmentation tempts to associate deep human skin structure in an artistic way.

The artwork “White Field” by Gunther Uecker shows nails cover with white paint on canvas. Different patterns are being created reflecting light depending on the angle of observation, reminding of bristly hair. (Tate, 2016) Italian painter Eduarda Emilia Maino, known as Dadamaino shows in “Volume of displaced Modules” (1960) two overlapping layers of holey, semi-transparent foils. “I wanted to create holes that were arranged in a perspective, translating volume through three or four layers of plastic. I

(AU, "White Field" TateModern London, 2016)

found a semi-transparent material that is normally used for shower curtains which came closest to the idea of transparency. “(Maino, 1960) Maino who is known for creating unique art by using unconventional materials such as plastic foils and PVC inspire the process of innovative semi-transparent 3D- woven and knitted textiles for e.g. jumpers, dresses and coats.

Sex- skin on skin, leather on leather.

Fish skin such as Salmon is getting more and more popular.

An alternative to typical exotic skin such as snake and crocodile which are endangered species. Fish skins are very soft, flexible and similarly structured to snake skin, while being even more tear-resistant than cow hide. The skin is a mere by-product of the edible fish industry. After the filleting process, leftover skin is often tossed back into the sea with a

(AU, "Volume of displaced Modules" Tate Modern, 2016)

potential to pollute the water. That’s why fish skin is considered eco-friendly, reducing waste to a minimum and suggesting to replace conventional leather. (FishLeather, 2016) Perforated sheep and pig leather, defined through its deep pores creates interesting shades across its surface, and gives each skin a unique structure. The leathers can be used for a vast variety of items such as accessories, jackets, skirts and also be used for product details.

A combination of 3D-structured textiles, unique leather surfaces and transparent silks emphasises all aspects of femininity.

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(AU, Salmon skin London, 2016)

(AU, Guy Bourdin- Tate Modern London, 2016)

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(AU, Burberry Makers House London, 2016)

(AU, Tube Station Glass Northwick Park, 2016)

(AU, Textile Forum London, 2016)

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(AU, Tate Modern London, 2016)

Colour report

For decades the baby boomers and their descendants rebel against these stereotypes, reducing mankind to

staying neutral by being nude

outdated gender norms.

A huge rise of gender-neutral colours and unisex

SEX,

GENDER

AND

BODY

TREND

INFLUENCES

ON

FASHION

clothing can be noticed (Dua, 2016), while finding a strong presence of intense and dense natural tones such

When entering a fashion store for children’s clothing it is clearly

as plant based dyes, stones and sky shades, paired with

differentiated that pink is for girls and blue for boys. Colour

warm golds and cold silvery metallic surfaces. A touch of

stereotypes which haven’t always been gender specific. Until the

soft rose tones that remind of nudity, emphasise sexual

40’s children’s clothing had been gender neutral. Through

attraction.

growth of retailers and the baby boomers, pink and blue have been introduced as gender specified colours. (DailyMail, 2013)

The colour inspiration evolved from visiting art exhibitions such as Tate Modern, Photography

Recent analysis have shown that colours do influence behaviour

Exhibition of Nina Raasch, Susanne Venbrux Collection

and personal identity. (BBC and Hammond, 2014)

and day-to-day experience.

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(AU, Tate Modern London, 2016)

(Susanne Venbrux, 'Fragile' Arnhem,2014)

(AU, Nina Raasch Photography Exhibition Berlin, 2016)

(AU,British Museum London,2016)

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(AU, Studio of Peppelettere London,2016)

Fine Art Exhibition Meet the artist Nicola Peppelettere SEX,

GENDER

AND

BODY

TREND

INFLUENCES

ON

FASHION

The Someth1ng Gallery in Southeast London exhibits different local artists. (Someth1ng, 2016) Nicola Peppelettere is one of them. The Italian artist draws Nudes ever since his first painting lesson in 2001. When talking to him about his art, his passion and love for female silhouettes becomes apparent.

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The exhibited painting “untitled” an expressionist art piece shows a graceful young woman full of sensuality by being mysterious and dark at the same time.

Being curious about his work, process and thoughts he invites into his London studio for an exclusive look behind the scenes.

In the studio he shows “Psyche No1” another painting of the same woman captured a couple of years later on a life-size realistic oil-paint canvas. ‘Psyche’ symbolic for a Greek goddess; the two paintings could not be more opposing.

Peppelettere explains, that by using different light effects and

(AU, Moodboard of Peppelettere London,2016)

colour, the drama and expression can easily be ‘manipulated’- the external appearance of the woman changes, the internal values stay.

His Muses are defined by harmonious curvy body proportions, authenticity and individuality – natural women with personality. His fascination for female Nudes was generated by an artistic point of view, feminine-elegance, dynamics and sensuality. True eroticism while ignoring perfect artificial stereotypes. (Peppelettere, 2016) “Taste may be subjective but there are objective underpinnings that shape it: qualities such as proportion and ratio. Classical architecture feels innately satisfying because its construction is shaped by the proportions of the human body. It's pleasing to look at because of the way that it fits

(AU, 'untitled' Someth1ng London,2016)

within our line of vision.” (Eror, 2016)

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(AU, 'Psyche no1' Peppelettere London,2016)

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(AU, Peppeletteres' studio London, 2016)

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(AU, Peppeletteres' studio London, 2016)

(AU, Peppeletteres' studio London, 2016)

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(Davenport, V&A Undressed Exhibition London, 2016)

Historical Art Exhibition

V&A Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear SEX,

GENDER

AND

BODY

TREND

INFLUENCES

ON

FASHION

The exhibition ‘Undressed’ reveals an intimate relationship between fashion and underwear that commenced in the eighteenth century to more recent times. It shows the controversial path of women moulding their body shape to any current fashion ideal. (V&A and Museum, 2016)

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The exhibition shows 200 samples of under garments and in adaptation to each era in terms of cut, use of fabric and embellishment. This clearly proves how the fit changes reflecting cultural and social attitude towards sex, gender and morality. (V&A and Museum, 2016) The exhibition also discusses health issues as a result of wearing corsets and contemporary shape wear, always utilised to achieve perfect silhouettes. Shocking X-ray images reveal deformed organs and bone structure as an after effect of a lifetime of wearing tight laced corsets, that have even proven fatal for some women.

How far must women go to fit into fashionable, body type parameters?

Hubert de Givenchy once said, “the dress must adjust to the body of a

(AU, V&A Undressed Exhibition London, 2016)

woman, not the body adjust to the shape of the dress”. (Lindig, 2014) Nevertheless, it is terrifying to see current body-shape trend developments – e.g. the revival of the wasp waist, an extreme hourglass silhouette. Kim Kardashian and Co promote modern waist trainer corsets via Instagram and Twitter. The idea is, to use these corsets every day for a certain period of time to eventually change your silhouette. (Thapoung, 2016) Exhibited items by designers like Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Dolce&Gabbana, Stella McCartney and John Galliano (for Givenchy) show underwear inspired fashion. The designs reach from romantic delicate lace haute couture dresses by Givenchy, provocative leggings by Vivienne Westwood to a sheer silk dress with wicker crinoline by Dolce & Gabbana... (Ehrmann and Victoria and Albert Museum, 2015) (AU, V&A Undressed Exhibition London, 2016)

Book tickets here: https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/whatson/index/view/id/2233/event/Undress ed--A-Brief-History-of-Underwear/dt/2016-10-26/free/2

"THE DRESS MUST ADJUST TO THE BODY OF A WOMAN, NOT THE BODY ADJUST TO THE SHAPE OF THE DRESS" D E S I G N E R , H U B E R T G I V E N C H Y

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(AU, V&A Undressed Exhibition London, 2016)

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(AU, The new world of Barbie London, 2016)

Revolution

Ever since the launch of Barbie the outfits and styles have been adjusted to current fashion trends and society’s

The new world of Barbie SEX,

GENDER

AND

BODY

TREND

INFLUENCES

ON

FASHION

zeitgeist but never changed the original body shape and gender stereotypes. (Duncan, 2016) Barbie has been heavily criticised for many years, with scientists claiming that Barbie dolls exhibit and create

“Barbie finally becomes a real woman with a more realistic

distinct body and gender images that negatively condition

figure” - The Guardian

young girls playing with them.

“Barbie’s new shapes – Tall, petite and curvy” – USA today

It’s a revolution and an explicit statement to today’s society, as the dolls have never evolved this much. (Ellis-

These headlines were covered by the Newspapers in January this

Petersen, 2016) This trend does not only have an impact on

year. Mattel has launched a new line of Barbie dolls “The Doll

the $22 billion worth toy industry, forcing them to change

evolves”, that includes petite, tall and curvy body shapes. Since

their product marketing strategies and abandon gender

1967 the Barbie doll is an integral part of nurseries worldwide and

stereotypes. Fast-Fashion giant Zara recently launched its

a classic toy to every little girl.

first gender neutral line. (Dua, 2016)

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"BARBIE FINALLY BECOMES A REAL WOMAN WITH MORE REALISTIC FIGURE" THE GUARDIAN

(AU, The new world of Barbie London, 2016)

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Reflective Summary The impact on fashion and future perspective SEX,

GENDER

AND

BODY

TREND

INFLUENCES

ON

FASHION

The trend forecast indicates a macro trend, a revolution against classical sex, gender and body shape stereotypes in respect of female identity. The art-reviews and the reactions of merchandise toy industry giants and the fashion industry predict an authentic response to the current zeitgeist.

(AU, Graham Vogue Cover London, 2016)

Around the globe style phenomena in club environment break sexual taboo themes and provoke with fetish inspired styles. Zana Bayne elevating SM accessories to a different more commercial level definitely proves a design vision and micro trend that has to be watched. This demands a more openminded approach and outspoken debate about sex education in the 21th century.

The fashion world must respond to the outrage over promoting the perfect body shape that the average female consumer cannot identify with any longer. The industry faces the challenge to create fashion items suiting the diverse female body shape, reconsidering size prejudices and shape evolution. For the first time in January 2017 British Vogue covers Ashley Graham, a plus-size model who helped to diminish body-issue insecurities and stereotypes of women. (Conlon, 2016) A trend is noticeable breaking gender related colour stereotype, leading

(AU, Graham Cosmo Cover London, 2016)

towards the use of intense and dense natural tones found in plant based dyes, stones, sky shades and soft nude-rose tones. The colours applied on 3D structured fabrics, unique leather surfaces and transparent silk are reflecting modern female strengths.

Two weeks ago in Paris, looking at the latest Victoria Secret show, IconMagazine finds that in times of Instagram, our society is saturated with beautiful perfect images of models, bodies and lifestyles. Looking at the slick and similarly shaped ‘Angels’ again and again is getting boring. (Hackober, 2016) Pioneer John Galliano already presented at his fashion show “EVERYTHING is beautiful” in 2005, real people in real clothes, clothes matching their individual character and body shape.

Authors final remark: There are certainly other intriguing influences on the trend topic “Sex, Gender and Body”, i.e. transgender, plastic surgery,

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(AU, Fetish Accessories in London, 2016)

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cultural differences caused by religion and the expansion of migration in western countries.

"I HOPE MY WORK HELPS TO BUILD SELF-CONFIDENCE IN MORE YOUNG WOMEN," T E D - X , A S H L E Y G R A H A M

(AU, Body shape doodle London, 2016)

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Bibliography SEX, GENDER AND BODY TREND INFLUENCES ON FASHION

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Bayne, Z. (2016) Zana Bayne & other stories. Available at: http://zanabayne.com/zana-bayne-and-other-stories (Accessed: 4 December 2016).

BBC and Hammond, C. (2014) The ‘pink vs blue’ gender myth. Available at: http://www.bbc.com/future/story/20141117-thepink-vs-blue-gender-myth (Accessed: 7 December 2016). Berghain (2016) Berghain Berlin. Available at: http://www.berghain.de (Accessed: 3 December 2016).

Bouteba, M. (2016) Undressed: A brief history of underwear. Available at: http://www.timeout.com/london/things-todo/undressed-a-brief-history-of-underwear (Accessed: 7 December 2016).

Conlon, S. (2016) Why Ashley’s Our Girl. Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/ashley-graham-january-vogue-coverstar-interview-preview (Accessed: 8 December 2016).

Czienskowski, P. (2014) So kommen Sie garantiert in den legendären Berliner Nachtklub „Berghain“ rein. Available at: https://www.welt.de/vermischtes/article131251964/So-kommen-Sie-garantiert-ins-Berghain-rein.html (Accessed: 3 December 2016).

DailyMail, R. by (2013) The death of gender-neutral clothing: New book details the history of when blue and pink became gender synonymous. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2337814/The-death-gender-neutral-clothing-Newbook-details-history-blue-pink-gender-synonymous.html (Accessed: 7 December 2016).

Dua, T. (2016) From coca-cola to Barbie: The fierce rise of gender-neutral advertising. Available at: http://digiday.com/brands/theyre-just-fierce-rise-gender-fluid-advertising/ (Accessed: 7 December 2016).

Duncan, J. (2016) Barbie just got real with its new line of dolls. Available at: http://www.zimbio.com/For+The+Win/articles/DqBHRL5MMf5/Barbie+Just+Got+Real+New+Line+Dolls (Accessed: 7 December 2016).

Ehrman, E. and Victoria and Albert Museum, (2015) Undressed: A brief history of underwear. 1st edn. London: V&A Puplishing.

Ellis-Petersen, H. (2016) Barbie finally becomes a real woman – with a more realistic figure. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2016/jan/28/barbie-finally-becomes-a-real-girl-with-more-realistic-figure-andskin-colours (Accessed: 7 December 2016).

Eror, A. (2016) ​the rise of the anti-beauty aesthetic | read. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/the-rise-of-the-antibeauty-aesthetic (Accessed: 3 December 2016).

FishLeather (2016) What is fish leather? - the fish leather company. Available at: http://thefishleather.co/what-is-fish-leather/ (Accessed: 6 December 2016).

Hackober, J. (2016) Ist Victoria’s Secret wirklich noch sexy? Available at: http://www.welt.de/icon/mode/article159876313/IstVictorias-Secret-wirklich-noch-sexy.html (Accessed: 3 December 2016).

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Lindig, S. (2014) Famous quotes from fashion’s greatest designers. Available at: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a1576/50-famous-fashion-quotes/ (Accessed: 4 December 2016).

LLC, V.M. (2016) Sex is fashion | VICE | United States. Available at: http://www.vice.com/video/sex-is-fashion (Accessed: 3 December 2016).

Maino, E. (1960) Volume of displaced modules, Dadamaino 1960 | Tate Available at: http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/dadamaino-volume-of-displaced-modules-t13288 (Accessed: 6 December 2016).

Nyx (2016) ABOUT US - club NYX Amsterdam. Available at: http://clubnyx.nl/about/ (Accessed: 3 December 2016).

Peppelettere, N. (2016) ‘Meet the artist: Nicola Peppelettere’. Interview with Anika Umhey for 5 December, .

Roffey, M. (2011) With Kisses of his Mouth. Available at: http://www.oed.com/view/Entry/14168#eid289098363 (Accessed: 3 December 2016).

Someth1ng (2014) Artists. Available at: http://someth1ng.com (Accessed: 7 December 2016).

Tate, E. (2016) Tate modern. Available at: http://www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-modern (Accessed: 25 November 2016).

Thapoung, K. (2016) The dangerous side of waist training. Available at: http://www.marieclaire.com/healthfitness/a13489/celebrities-swear-by-it-but-is-waist-training-actually-healthy/ (Accessed: 7 December 2016).

Ugelvig, J. (2016) ‘Wreaking havoc’, Dansk, (36). V&A and Museum, V. (2016) V&A · undressed: A brief history of underwear.

Available at: https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/undressed-a-brief-history-of-underwear (Accessed: 7 December 2016).

Venbrux, S. (2016a) ‘Fragile- don’t drop’. Interview with Anika Umhey for 5 December, .skype interview Venbrux, S. (2016b) Susanne Venbrux. Available at: http://www.susannevenbrux.com (Accessed: 6 December 2016).

Citations, Quotes & Annotations Peppelettere, N. (2016) ‘Meet the artist: Nicola Peppelettere’. Interview with Anika Umhey for 5 December, . "Personal talk in someth1ng gallery and his studio" (Peppelettere, 2016) Tate, E. (2016) Tate modern. Available at: http://www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-modern (Accessed: 25 November 2016). "Exhibition visit" (Tate, 2016)

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Photos AU= Anika Umhey (Authors own) Titelpage: AU, photo seen at Raasch, N. (2016) Photography Exhibition Berlin [Photography]. Available at: http://ninaraasch.de (Accessed: 15 December 2016). (Taken: September 2016) Page 3: AU, Berlin roof terrace glass, (Taken: August 2016) Page 4: BON MAGAZINE (2016) ‘Eckhaus Latte’, Risk, AW 16(71), p. 131.

AU, forest in Berlin Weißensee, (Taken August 2016) Page 5: AU, Berghain Berlin, (Taken: November 2016) Page 6: AU, Nyx Amsterdam, (Taken: February 2016) AU, before Berghain night out in Berlin, (Taken: June 2016) AU, Party in Berlin, (Taken: July 2016) Page 7: AU, Bayne for &otherstories London Regent Street, (Taken: September 2016) Page 8: AU, Feathers decoration in Daluma Café Berlin, (Taken: May 2016) AU, Bayne for &otherstories London Regent Street, (Taken: September 2016) Page 9: AU, Backstage at Venbrux Fashion Show ‚Fragile’ in Arnhem, (Taken:June 2014) Page 10: AU, Backstage at Venbrux Fashion Show ‚Fragile’ in Arnhem, (Taken: June 2014) Page 11/12: Venbrux, S. (2016) Fragile Available at: http://www.susannevenbrux.com (Accessed: 15 December 2016). (official pictures of the catwalk - given to the author by Susanne Venbrux) Page 13: AU, clotty pigments seen in Tate Modern London, (Taken: November, 2016) Page 14: AU, ‚white field’ by Gunther Uecker seen in Tate Modern London, (Taken: November, 2016) AU, ‚Volume of displaced Modules’ by Maino seen in Tate Modern London, (Taken: November, 2016) AU, Salmon skin in Acton London, (Taken: December 2016) Page 15: AU, cracked surface by Guy Bourdin seen in Tate Modern London, (Taken: November 2016) AU, fabric seen at the Burberry Makers House London, (Taken: November, 2016)

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Page 16: AU, glass seen at tube Station Northwick Park London, (Taken: December,2016) AU, fabric seen at Textile Forum London, (Taken: October, 2016) Page 17: AU, art seen in Tate Modern London, (Taken: November, 2016) Page 18: AU, art piece – metal pads seen in Tate Modern London, (Taken: Novemver 2016) Venbrux, S. (2016) Fragile Available at: http://www.susannevenbrux.com (Accessed: 15 December 2016). (official pictures of the catwalk - given to the author by Susanne Venbrux) AU, photo seen at Raasch, N. (2016) Photography Exhibition Berlin [Photography]. Available at: http://ninaraasch.de (Accessed: 15 December 2016). (Taken: September 2016) AU, Egyptian stone art seen at British Museum London, (Taken: October, 2016) Page 19: AU, visit at Peppeletteres’ studio in London, (Taken: December 2016) Page 20: AU, ‘Moodboard’ visit at Peppeletteres’ studio in London, (Taken: December 2016) AU, ‘untitled’ seen in Someth1ng gallery in London, (Taken: December 2016) AU, ‘psyche no1’ visit at Peppeletteres’ studio in London, (Taken: December 2016) Page 21: AU, ‘sketches’ visit at Peppeletteres’ studio in London, (Taken: December 2016) Page 22: AU, visit at Peppeletteres’ studio in London, (Taken: December 2016) Page 23: Davenport (2016) V&A Undressed Available at: http://www.wornthrough.com/2016/05/review-undressed-a-briefhistory-of-underwear-va-museum/ (Accessed: 15 December 2016).

Page 24: AU, V&A Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear, (Taken: November: 2016) Page 25/26: AU, the new world of Barbie’s seen in London, (Taken: December 2016) Page 27: AU, Ashley Graham- British Vogue Cover for January 2017, (Taken: December 2016) AU, Ashley Graham -Cosmopolitan Cover for January 2017, (Taken: December 2016) AU, Fetish Accessories seen in London, (Taken: December 2016) Page 28: AU, doodles showing different body shapes (drawn by AU December 2016)

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University of Westminster BA (Hons) Fashion Merchandise Management Module: 4FAMN008W Fashion Trends and Consumer Culture Module Leader: Stephen Myers Assessment 2: The Essay Subject: Sex, gender and the body trend influences on fashion.

Student: Anika Umhey Submission date: 15th December 2016 (6pm)

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BY ANIKA UMHEY