Travel Close to Home

By Mary Bremner Huddling around your heater and dreaming of campfires in the Kimberley? Still smarting over those cancelled travel plans? When COVID-19 restrictions on local travel are eased, there’s no better time to get out and explore our own region.

You won’t have to elbow out any international tourists and our local operators will welcome you. Many of these activities come at no cost.

With this in mind, my interest was piqued when the Anglesea Historical Society advertised their July excursion, in the footsteps of William Buckley. I had long been fascinated by the story of the escaped convict who lived with the local Wathaurong people for 32 years. In the window between periods of Stage 3 restrictions, I jumped at the opportunity. Our group of history buffs used their own vehicles, in order to comply with guidelines for social distancing. Tour organiser, Jan Morris, furnished us with a map and information about each of the scheduled stops. The Buckley Falls in Highton provided a scenic backdrop for our introduction to the life and times of this fascinating character. Historical Society member, Karl Jacklin, had researched his subject thoroughly and we learned about Buckley’s life prior to being transported to the new convict settlement of Port Phillip for being in possession of some rolls of stolen cloth.

We heard about Buckley’s escape from custody at Sullivan Bay (now Sorrento) in 1803. Joined by two other convicts, he had the intention of making for Sydney. The futility of this soon dawned on Buckley’s companions, but made of sterner stuff he set off on foot along the coast, eventually reaching present day Lorne. He turned back and at this point met up with the Wathaurong people. Buckley was greeted warmly by the tribespeople, who took him for the returned spirit of a departed kinsman. In the following decades, Buckley learned the native language, became skilled in the use of the tools and weapons and found female companionship. He was revered by the tribe and had a role in settling intertribal disputes. Our tour was organised for convenience, rather than a chronology of events, and motoring on to Indented Head at the tip of the Bellarine Peninsula, we found ourselves at the location of Buckley’s return to white society in 1835. This occurred out of a desire to protect his adopted people, with a dispute brewing between some members of the Wathaurong and an exploration party led by John Batman. Batman had been dispatched from Van Dieman’s Land (Tasmania) to scout a suitable location in the Port Phillip area for a settlement.

We pictured the vision that William Buckley must have been, all 6-foot 6-

inches (198cm) of him, clad in animal skins and carrying aboriginal weapons. He could barely speak English, but the offer of some bread triggered something and words started to come back to him.

We continued; stopping at Saint Leonards, Point Londsdale, Barwon Heads and Breamlea, all places laying claim to a connection with the Buckley story. The banks of the Bream Creek

Historical Society member Ed Tame talks with Mary Bremner at Buckley Falls on the Barwon River. William Buckley worked as a guide for new residents to Geelong after his return to white society.

Historical Society members Betty Butterworth and Harry Wendt stand on the pedestrian bridge at Barwon Heads, named in honour of William Buckley.

would have been a location with abundant eels, fish and duck and a likely spot for the Wathaurong people to set up camp. It is widely believed that Buckley built himself a hut there. Time didn’t allow for further exploration of the places that Buckley would have traversed between present day Torquay and Lorne. Jan finished the day with a story, perhaps apocryphal, that nevertheless was very entertaining –especially for the Aireys Inlet members of the party. Following the coast, Buckley crossed a river –he had lost his fire stick so was looking out for some smouldering timber. When he got to Kuarka Dorla (now Anglesea) it was a scorching January day. He didn’t find any fire and nor could he find any shade, as there were no big trees. None of the shrubs had edible berries and he couldn’t find any drinkable water, as the river was too salty. He tried unsuccessfully to catch fish in the river. He left exhausted, calling it a ‘God-forsaken place’. Buckley followed the beach around to Mangowak (now Aireys Inlet). There he found a cool cave, shrubs with edible berries, fresh natural spring water, and a stump of hot coals, where he cooked the fish he was able to catch at the mouth of the creek. He referred to this place as ‘The Garden of Eden’. It was a most enjoyable day. For some years, I’ve had a tourist brochure outlining the self-guided William Buckley trail, languishing in a drawer. It took being kept at home for the winter to motivate me to get out and explore the places associated with this fascinating part of our local history. There are many other wonderful destinations in our own area that may well be overlooked by local residents. How many of us have been up the Split Point Lighthouse? Its story is part of our maritime history and the views are awesome.

The Anglesea River and the Painkalac Creek are both beautiful waterways for canoeing and the upper reaches are well worth exploring. You might have hiked the Camino or some of Tasmania’s famous walks, but there are some world-class treks in our own back yard –consider the Surf Coast Walk and the Great Ocean Walk. I recently reacquainted myself with the

Zoe Morton-Cartwright enjoys the views from Split Point Lighthouse in Aireys Inlet—one of the many activities locals can enjoy in their own backyard.

beautiful loop walk up the Iron Bark Gorge –two hours return from my front door in Aireys. Further afield, Lake Elizabeth near Forest, formed in 1952 as the result of a landslide on the East Barwon River, is flanked with glorious fern groves, and at dawn or dusk you have the chance to spot a platypus. Who needs to go to France? You can source black truffles just down the road at Wongarra Farm, near Skenes Creek, and create gourmet meals in your own kitchen. Truffles in hand, travel home via the ‘USA’, with a deviation to admire the forest of 85-year-old Californian Redwoods (Sequoia sempervirens) at Beech Forest. We all love our local wines, but may not have actually visited the wineries right on our doorstep. Bellbrae Estate is only 12 minutes down the road from Anglesea, and Brown Magpie a 20- minute drive away. Dinny Goonan, Pondalowie, and Blakes Estate are all less than an hour from home. (Check their websites for opening hours.) Footnote: For more information about the Anglesea and District Historical Society, go to their Facebook page. Excursions are held on the odd months -COVID restrictions allowing. The society loans out books on William Buckley if you’d like to learn more.