EDITORS’ CHOICE AWARDS
Even by our standards, we had an extraordinary 12 months of globe-trotting, aided by the ongoing strength of the dollar. We stayed incognito at 86 hotels, resorts and lodges, spanning 17 countries on six continents (perhaps we’ll return to Antarctica in 2025). Italy and Spain earned multiple editorial visits. By my count,
we wrote full reviews of 81 restaurants, plus evaluations of luxury cruise ships, Venetian wine bars, Patagonian hikes, Hawaiian coffee farms, Santa Barbara boutiques and private dinners with Bhutanese notables. The richness of our experiences made our debates about who deserved awards especially fun and spirited. Congratulations to the winners!
Best New Cruise Ship, Explora I
The one-bedroom River House, &Beyond Punakha River Lodge, our 2024 Hideaway of the Year
HIDEAWAY OF THE YEAR
&BEYOND PUNAKHA RIVER LODGE, BHUTAN
Opened in 2023, this extraordinary eight-suite resort counts among those rare properties that have it all: stylish décor with a strong sense of place, a tranquil but convenient location, accommodations with every modern comfort, stupendous views — in this case up a valley to the snowcapped Gasa Mountains — and, not least, service that’s highly professional, goodhumored and intuitive (see sidebar).
Our canvas-walled room wasn’t the largest we had in Bhutan, but I appreciated the wellconsidered eclecticism of its decor. Each morning, when the sky over the mountains was clearest, we made coffee in the French press to sip at our terrace’s table. One evening, we relaxed there with sundowners made from the complimentary fixings in our minibar. Inside, the ample bath looked particularly striking: at its center was a tub clad in black marble and illuminated by a skylight, like some sort of sacred plinth.
The local and international cuisine was unfailingly delicious — vital in a lodge that’s not near any restaurants of note. I especially liked the gracious alfresco breakfasts, in which a little buffet came to our table, supplemented by wellpresented à la carte dishes. Dinners ranged from a delectable thali-style Bhutanese spread in the intimate dining room to a barbecue served at linen-draped tables around a bonfire.
The range of amenities was also quite large for a resort so small. We took a well-led yoga class, relaxed by the mountain-view infinity pool and sipped cocktails in the lounge amid handicrafts and sapphire-toned sofas. If Bhutan weren’t so far away, I’d make a stay at &Beyond Punakha River Lodge an annual tradition. Maybe I will anyway.
+ STAFF OF THE YEAR
Our Hideaway of the Year award winner, has, as you might expect, an extraordinary staff, and the property won this award as well. The service managed to be personable but professional and attentive without being overbearing — tricky to achieve. Sometimes the employees seemed positively psychic. Whenever we left our suite, we returned to find it tidied, yet we never once interrupted a housekeeper. Following an afternoon hike, we discovered our bathtub filled with warm water and bestrewn with fragrant artemisia leaves. Elsewhere, the staff proved adept at creating memorable moments, like riverside sundowners by a fire. The level of service here would be a credit to any hotel.
EXPLORA EL CHALTÉN
PATAGONIA, ARGENTINA
As you drive toward the Andes’ sharptoothed summits with the land endlessly unfolding before you, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by Patagonia’s vast scale. Which is why our stay here was so exceptional: The personable guides made it accessible. Within minutes of arriving at the 20-room ecolodge, they escorted us on our first hike, which began like all the others,
at the hotel’s doorstep. Explora makes the most of its location within a picturesque reserve adjacent to Los Glaciares National Park. On hikes, we sipped water from streams, watched torrent ducks play on the river and ate at the foot of the Marconi Glacier. And in the evenings, we’d enjoy inventive cocktails, gourmet meals and views of the valley as the winds howled, making our lodge feel like the perfect refuge.
KONA VILLAGE, A ROSEWOOD RESORT
BIG ISLAND, HAWAII
There is an undeniable positive energy at this property, a landscaped paradise of lush native floras. It boasts a remarkably proactive and friendly staff, commendable dining venues and a wide array of well-organized land and sea activities. Destroyed in 2011 by a tsunami, this beachfront hotel was rebuilt from the ground up by Rosewood and reopened in July 2023. All 150 rooms are stand-alone hales (houses), a rarity on the Kohala Coast. From the outsize lanai of our sumptuous lodging, we had a prime position to spot whales. It was a delight to wake up and sip local coffee while looking out at the expanse of blue, with rainbows often brightening the horizon. But I was happy, too, to gaze at the Hualālai volcano from the spa, creatively built into a black lava flow.
All 150 rooms are stand-alone hales.
BEAVERBROOK
SURREY, ENGLAND
Nestled on a bucolic woodland estate in Surrey Hills, this 56-room hideaway is utterly irresistible. Homey rather than glamorous, our tastefully appointed room had a deep sofa that proved the ideal space for lounging on rainy days. In the art deco bar decorated with Victorian artist Marianne North’s magnificent paintings of exotic plants and flowers from around
the world, we traveled through the jungles of South America to the gardens of the Taj Mahal without budging from a topaz-blue velvet sofa. Given the gorgeous spa, the excellent dining options and the general atmosphere of feeling far removed from the hectic pace of the present, I understand why so many Londoners drive the 90 minutes from the capital to Beaverbrook for a weekend getaway.
LE GRAND MAZARIN
PARIS, FRANCE
Situated in the historic Marais neighborhood where many hotels stick to traditional French styles, this 61-room property is a breath of fresh air. Swedish designer Martin Brudnizki has created a lavish world of playful exuberance. The cheeky interior flaunts whimsical works of art and mismatched patterns and textiles — the intricate Aubusson-like tapestry draped over our canopy bed was especially eye-catching. An innovative Eastern European menu is served in a main dining room decorated with folk-art-like motifs or on a bright winter-garden adorned with trompe l’oeil frescoes. The highly professional staff snagged us hard-to-get seats at Paris’ newest cabaret and last-minute reservations at starred restaurants. And the clincher is the subterranean pool, which features a beautiful handpainted ceiling with a dreamlike botanical mural that spans the entire room.
The subterranean pool features a handpainted ceiling.
PALAZZO VENART
VENICE, ITALY
Venice has no shortage of glamorous hotels, but Palazzo Venart stole the show on our recent trip to the City of Bridges. Nothing here is done in half measures. Tucked away in the less touristy Santa Croce neighborhood, the converted palace combines sumptuous glamour with warm hospitality in an intimate setting. With just 17 rooms, the property remains somewhat of a secret, offering a sense of privacy and exclusivity that’s often
missing from the famous properties close to St. Mark’s Square. A Michelin two-star restaurant and a private art-filled garden on the Grand Canal — amenities you won’t find elsewhere — add to the allure. Rooms here exude luxury, with velvet trimmings and polished wood. Suites may not have the sweeping canal views of some of the city’s iconic hotels, but the Venart is a romantic and history-filled hideaway where guests can escape the crowds.
HOTEL MIRLO
BARCELONA, SPAIN
This prestigious mansion in the upscale residential neighborhood of Sarrià-Sant Gervasi is as chic as it is welcoming and cozy. From the start, the Old World warmth and professionalism of the service made us feel more like residents than tourists. Our elegant suite included not only a massive hydromassage Jacuzzi tub in the bedroom but also a sauna and a steam shower in the bath. Our room was so enticing that we were generally disinclined to leave at all. But the swimming pool set within a pretty garden and the first-rate restaurant drew us out. This luxurious 16-room spa retreat is designed to lure you “home” at the end of a busy day exploring the city, and we quickly fell under its spell.
Our suite's bath had a sauna and steam shower.
CAPELLA UBUD
BALI, INDONESIA
Thirty minutes outside Ubud, Capella is an out-of-this-world safari-style hotel that combines friendly Balinese hospitality with stunningly creative design by Bill Bensley. I was immediately smitten. The open-air lobby leads to a gorgeous jungle hideaway dotted with 23 tented villas, each with an original theme, mismatched antique art and furnishings, an animalhide minibar and a private plunge pool. The property
is a village of delights, containing treasures like a chevron-painted pool under towering palm trees and the Officers Tent, where guests gather for cocktail hour. My time here was filled with memorable experiences: a soul purification ritual in the hotel’s ancient riverside temple, a trek through nearby terraced rice paddies to visit an artist’s studio and a theatrical multicourse meal at the intimate omakase restaurant. I’ll spend the foreseeable future dreaming up excuses to return.
THE LANA
DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
Unlike many other luxury hotel companies, the Dorchester Collection hasn’t raced to grow its portfolio. When a new one opens, like The Lana, it’s newsworthy. And indeed, this 225-room urban resort is a game changer even in luxury-saturated Dubai. I appreciated how our suite had a strong sense of both character and permanence, which are qualities usually absent from skyscraper accommodations. Floor-to-ceiling windows led outside to a wraparound terrace with glittering, mesmerizing views. Relaxing in the Dior Spa and lounging on the extraordinary pool terrace were sybaritic pleasures, as was feasting on huge Arabian breakfasts and the wood-fired cuisine of Basque chef Martín Berasategui. A beach club is in the works, accessible by private boat, but it seems almost superfluous. Stepping outside The Lana was the last thing I wanted to do.
+ BEST ROOFTOP
The vertiginous 20th-floor infinity pool of The Lana was a serious contender for our Best Pool award, but we realized that the entire roof terrace deserved an accolade. Its terrace offers spellbinding views of Dubai, including of the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa. The people-watching is just as compelling as the panoramas. One sunbed neighbor was a woman ready for her close-up, wearing giant sunglasses, a triple-strand pearl necklace and a huge, black straw sun hat. Near the pool, the aptly named High Society restaurant serves recipes developed by star chef Jean Imbert. The terrace is reason alone to stay at The Lana.
THE PENINSULA ISTANBUL
ISTANBUL, TURKEY
The Peninsula Istanbul raises the bar for city hotels everywhere. It’s a supremely luxurious urban resort complete with a massive underground spa, a waterside pool, a restaurant by Michelin-starred chef Fatih Tutak and a peaceful setting on the banks of the Bosphorus. The 177 rooms with a luxe Ottoman-inspired design are divided between historic structures and a splashy new building. I could happily have spent a weekend here without once departing the property, but Istanbul beckoned. The hotel is within a short walk of Galata Tower, the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art and some of the city’s best dining and shopping, while nearby Galata Bridge provides easy access to the ancient treasures of Sultanahmet. If you haven’t been to Istanbul yet, the nearly flawless Peninsula makes a persuasive case to go.
+ BEST SPA
In addition to its ideal location, fine restaurants and plush guest rooms, The Peninsula Istanbul boasts a massive subterranean spa with an 82-foot-long pool surrounded by marble columns. This palace of wellness proved to be our favorite spa of the year. Guests need not book a treatment to enjoy the facilities — we happily whiled away an afternoon luxuriating in the steam room and sauna, and cooling down with an experiential shower meant to mimic a tropical rainstorm. But you’d be remiss to skip a hammam treatment, during which you’ll get scrubbed and massaged atop a heated marble plinth, feeling like an Ottoman emperor.
EMRE DORTER
&BEYOND TENGILE RIVER LODGE
SABI SANDS GAME RESERVE, SOUTH AFRICA
Iam fortunate to have stayed in numerous superlative safari lodges, and it takes a lot to impress me. But precious few properties offer this combination of striking design, sweeping views, lavish amenities, flawless service and animal-packed excursions. Our suite, one of nine, was the size of a small house. Walls of windows in the living room, bedroom and bath faced a furnished river-view terrace and a lengthy infinity pool. Room-service lunches created the dilemma of whether to open a full-size bottle of fine local wine or mix a couple of cocktails from the included minibar. We had beautifully presented breakfasts overlooking a lawn where antelopes and warthogs gamboled, and dinners were superb, whether multicourse tasting menus or convivial lantern-lit barbecues. This lodge even gives Singita a run for the money.
+ MOST GLAMOROUS SUITE
I had high expectations for our stand-alone suite, but they were exceeded and then some. Rough-hewn wood ceilings and exposed stone walls warmed the fashionably furnished spaces, done in a sort of midcentury-safari style. Everything was both beautiful and comfortable, notably in the airy bath, which had a wall of windows overlooking our infinity pool. But modern conveniences were everywhere, like USB ports in the base of the sofa. We opened bottles of wine from our amply stocked bar to drink on our furnished terrace while watching for animals by the river below. After dinner, we’d return to find our gas fireplace aglow. I can think of precious few ways that our suite could have been improved.
RESTAURANTS OF THE YEAR
Unbiased hotel reviews are Andrew Harper’s foundation, but we also take pride (and pleasure) in reviewing restaurants. When we dine, we follow our usual protocol of paying full price and not declaring our identity. It’s especially satisfying to see a new restaurant that we’ve endorsed subsequently become a hit. See full reviews of the restaurants below, plus our Hotel Restaurants of the Year, at AndrewHarper.com.
BAR LE CÔTE
LOS OLIVOS, CALIFORNIA
A lively scene of tables packed with revelers, and a kitchen serving a compelling (and affordable) Basqueinspired menu.
COMMON THREAD
SAVANNAH, GEORGIA
Romantic dining rooms in a converted 19th-century mansion, an audacious wine list and superb Lowcountry cuisine — our new favorite in a great food city.
LA COCINA DE HUMO
OAXACA, MEXICO
An offshoot of Michelin-starred Levadura de Olla (see Chef of the Year above), but here, cooks prepare multicourse feasts using only a wood-fired clay oven.
CANTON BLUE
LONDON, ENGLAND
A Cantonese venue in The Peninsula London with silk-paneled dining rooms and
+ CHEF OF THE YEAR: THALIA BARRIOS GARCÍA, LA COCINA DE HUMO
Chef Thalia Barrios García is the mastermind behind two of Oaxaca city’s best restaurants. Michelin-starred Levadura de Olla serves creative dishes inspired by traditional recipes. At La Cocina de Humo, chefs whip up a tasting menu of Oaxacan specialties using only a clay oven. Though she’s not yet 30 years old, Barrios García has been cooking for two decades, learning from her grandmother in the village of San Mateo Yucutindoo. She is a rising star, and her restaurants alone are worth the trip to one of Mexico’s most exciting food cities.
a sublime dim sum tasting menu — one of Belgravia's best restaurants of any kind.
OGATA
PARIS, FRANCE
An elegant hidden gem in the Marais, with counter seating around an open kitchen preparing exquisite Japanese dishes.
VENISSA
VENICE, ITALY
On the lagoon island of Mazzorbo, serving a seven-course menu focused on finding creative ways to present local seafood.
CASA SAN GIACOMO
PUGLIA, ITALY
A family-run cavernlike restaurant, tucked away in an alley in Ostuni, presenting delicious, unpretentious Pugliese cuisine.
PIER
CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA
Tasting menus with visual fireworks that remain grounded with deep and complex flavors, plus an engaging staff and views of the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront.
AVATĀRA
DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
The first Michelin-starred Indianvegetarian restaurant, where each of the 16 courses takes aim at one of the seven chakras (energy points) in the human body.
FICO
HOBART, AUSTRALIA
Our top pick in the restaurant-rich capital of Tasmania, offering Italian-inflected ninecourse, seasonal menus in a relaxed, artfilled storefront.
ORLADO
A dessert, Avatāra
ADDITIONAL WINNERS
+ BEST NEW CRUISE SHIP: EXPLORA I
This Italian-built ship, which feels rather like a chic Four Seasons or Belmond hotel at sea, hits a sweet spot in terms of size. Its 461 ocean-facing suites (starting at a spacious 377 square feet) keep the guest count at less than 1,000, while also allowing the vessel to offer numerous amenities. Instead of a large signature restaurant, six smaller dining venues specialize in different cuisines. Four heated pools — one indoors with a retractable roof — are among the most enticing you’ll find on any ship, notably the Astern infinity pool on Deck 5 (on this issue's cover). And service was generally top-notch. This first effort by the Explora brand has truly made a splash.
+ BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURE: PERITO MORENO GLACIER
With great anticipation, we drove from our resort in Argentine Patagonia, Pristine El Calafate, to one of the largest ice fields in the world: the Perito Moreno Glacier
in Los Glaciares National Park. After strolling the boardwalk and learning fascinating facts about this UNESCO World Heritage site, we boarded a boat to navigate Lago Argentino in front of the impressive ice sheet. Only when we saw a cluster of kayakers paddling past the 200-foot-high walls did we truly grasp the glacier’s immense scale. The experience became even more dramatic when this living glacier calved a chunk of ice into the water, creating a thunderous spectacle.
+ BEST ITINERARY: BARCELONA/CATALONIA
The inviting countryside of Catalonia is often overlooked, as many travelers focus only on Barcelona. We never tire of getting lost in this vibrantly colorful capital city, but this autonomous region has so much more to see. A stint in Barcelona paired with jaunts through the rest of Catalonia — the high-altitude Pyrenees, the Priorat wine-growing area and the breathtaking Costa Brava —
+ FIND MORE ACCOLADES AT ANDREWHARPER.COM
made for a captivating 12-day itinerary. This journey took us through the best of the widely varied and exceptionally beautiful region.
+ BEST POOL: KATEKA, SOUTH AFRICA
Just eight cushioned loungers flank the pool at Kateka in Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. But since this safari lodge has only six accommodations, all with their own private pools, you’re unlikely to find the seating filled. The three-part main pool (including a jetted tub section) juts out into the bush, pointing at a nearby water hole frequented by elephants, zebras and wildebeests. Turquoise- and lapis-hued tiles contrast with the canaryyellow umbrellas and the muted earth tones of the dry-season landscape. Not least important, a bar mixing delicious complimentary cocktails stands nearby. It was bliss to recline poolside, cold drink in hand, watching wild game drawn to the water hole.
+ BEST BEACH: GRAND ANSE
Although Grenada’s beaches are public, they’re far from crowded. During our June stay at Spice Island Beach Resort, Grand Anse — the island’s most popular and scenic beach — was wonderfully serene. Even with the high concentration of hotels, restaurants and bars along its shore, the area’s pristine white sands felt almost private in shoulder season. Shaded by palms and almond trees, the 2-mile stretch bordered warm, turquoise waters, where we spent the day dipping in and out, just steps from our suite at Spice Island Beach Resort.
Additional awards are in our digital edition, including the Most Remarkable Revisits , Most Unconventional Indulgences , Most Memorable Tastings and Best Amenities , like Most Glamorous Bath , Best Hotel Bar and Minibar, plus our always popular roundup of Disappointments of the Year
Pool and jetted tub facing a water hole, Kateka, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, South Africa
Priorat vineyards, Catalonia, Spain
CARLOS
EXTRAORDINARY COMEBACKS
On rare occasions, we’re distressed to learn that a natural disaster has devastated a recommended hotel, forcing its closure, and we regrettably remove it from the Harper Collection. But this year, we’ve had the pleasure to add three resorts that have reopened after experiencing terrible damage. The properties below suffered near or total destruction due to a wildfire, a tsunami and a mudslide, respectively. We returned to evaluate their new incarnations and discovered that they’re better than ever.
SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE
KANGAROO ISLAND, AUSTRALIA
In 2020, bushfires destroyed this remote cliffside resort, a former Hideaway of the Year. The owners, along with innkeepers John Hird and Alison Heath, vowed to rebuild. They managed to make it even better, upgrading the spa and realigning the architecture to improve the views of the windswept beach through the 25 guest rooms’ floor-to-ceiling windows. Our 657-square-foot Flinders Suite
was spectacular, but we were drawn to the open lobby and dining room for the convivial happy hour and locavore meals, supplemented by the self-serve bar and wine cellar. We might have spent all of our time on-property were it not for excursions to view wildlife and explore Flinders Chase National Park. Before its destruction, this hotel was reason alone to make the trip to Australia. And so it is once again.
KONA VILLAGE, A ROSEWOOD RESORT
BIG ISLAND, HAWAII
The original Kona Village Resort, built in the 1960s on the grounds of a former fishing village, was beloved for its homey atmosphere where repeat guests (like Steve Jobs) could unwind without the distractions of Wi-Fi and television. Destroyed in 2011 by a devastating tsunami, the property sat dormant for a decade before Rosewood stepped in. The company developed the thoughtful rebuild and sustainable redesign in partnership with a cultural committee composed of lineal descendants of the original villagers, plus community members and former
employees. Today, solar energy powers this magnificently rethought 150-room resort, which is beautifully landscaped with newly planted palms and lush native vegetation. The spa, facing the Hualālai volcano, is a highlight, as are the on-site petroglyph fields.
SAN YSIDRO RANCH MONTECITO, CALIFORNIA
In 2018, a mudslide caused catastrophic damage to San Ysidro Ranch, tucked into the hills above Montecito. The 38-key hotel reopened a year later, and I finally had a chance to visit this summer. It looked just as I remembered, if not better — the lemon grove and rose garden are thriving, and the accommodations manage to feel fresh yet timeless. It’s a bit like staying in the guesthouse of a tasteful billionaire. Floral fabrics, antique furnishings and claw-foot tubs give the cottages a vintage sensibility, and private hot tubs and gas fireplaces enhance their coziness. Our return to San Ysidro Ranch might have been one of our most expensive stays of the year (cottages start at nearly $3,000 per night), but it was worth every penny.
The two-bedroom Baillie Pavilion West, Southern Ocean Lodge
GEORGE APOSTOLIDIS