Issuu

ANDREW HARPER’S

APRIL 2025 SINCE 1979

TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES

Extraordinary ISLANDS

IN THIS ISSUE There’s a reason fantasies like “The Lord of the Rings” and “The Chronicles of Narnia” have filmed in New Zealand. An inordinate number of landscapes across that fortunate island nation have an awe-inspiring beauty well suited to stories imbued with magic. New hideaways on the South Island drew us back, as well as promising hotels and restaurants in the

underrated city of Auckland. On the other side of the world, another stupendously scenic island beckoned, and we checked in on two longtime recommendations in Ireland. In addition, because the Travel Office has noticed an increase in requests for multigenerational vacations, we were inspired to assemble a list of our favorite family-friendly hotels and resorts.

View from Flockhill Homestead, Lake Pearson, New Zealand

AUCKLAND HAS ARRIVED

The City of Sails has the wind at its back

In Maori, Auckland is known as “Tamaki Makaurau,” meaning “desired by many,” and it’s an apt description. On this trip, I spent extended time here, staying at two hotels near the downtown waterfront. This area boasts what’s said to be the largest marina in the Southern Hemisphere. And where yachts gather, glamour inevitably follows, bringing with it a vibrant food scene and high-end shops. The city also offers ample natural appeal, with sandy beaches, verdant volcanic cones and urban green spaces. Yet Auckland, where most international flights arrive, plays second fiddle to many other New Zealand destinations. Perhaps because the

country is blessed with such awe-inspiring landscapes, people give its largest city short shrift. Plus, it has long lacked a good luxury hotel — but that’s no longer the case.

Park Hyatt Auckland

The city’s class act is the 195-room Park Hyatt Auckland, which opened in 2020 in the Wynyard Quarter, a former industrial wharf that has been transformed into a mixed-use residential and entertainment area. Despite the numerous bars and restaurants, it remains the quieter side of the busy waterfront area.

The hotel’s soaring seven-story atrium lobby, adorned with striking Maori artwork, left quite an impression, as did Beau, the black Labrador “concierge” who dozed at the front desk in adorable fashion. Check-in was predictably busy — most flights from the U.S. arrive in the morning — but we felt a twinge of annoyance after multiple employees apologized for the delay but failed to alleviate it. At last, they handed us keys to the second-floor day spa, where we relaxed while waiting for our accommodation. A hot shower and a cold plunge in the hydrotherapy room, followed by my prebooked deep-tissue massage, made for a restorative start to the day, as did a subsequent hit of caffeine from the hotel’s popular café, the Pantry.

My mood much improved, we settled into our 500-square-foot open-plan room, a 1 King Bed Harbour View With Balcony, which was reminiscent of a spacious ship’s cabin. Past the bed, a built-in sofa faced a television, and sliding glass doors opened to an expansive balcony overlooking gleaming yachts bobbing in the marina against a backdrop of the Auckland skyline. Other touches, like manuka-honey protein snacks and a handwoven Tukutuku fabric wall, designed by a local Maori artist, provided a sense of place. Our bath stretched the length of the bedroom, and another set of sliding glass doors by the tub also led to the balcony. We appreciated the room’s separate half bath and walk-in closet, but the scratched, low-quality dining table at its center felt out of place.

Auckland skyline

“ Where yachts gather, glamour inevitably follows.

The Park Hyatt has four restaurants and bars, and we spent time at each of them. Besides coffees at the Pantry, we enjoyed New Zealand-inspired cuisine at Onemata and fireside cocktails at the Captain’s Bar and the Living Room. The latter is billed as “the perfect place to unwind and relax,” which it is until 9 p.m., the unusually early closing time.

Quibbles aside, only one thing truly detracted from our stay: The palpably stressed staff. Whether that was due to stern management, a labor shortage or just too many flat whites from the café, their tension left us feeling uneasy. Nevertheless, the Park Hyatt Auckland, offering a full suite of amenities and a prime location, is highly comfortable and a great value overall.

The Hotel Britomart

The Britomart district is a 20-minute walk from the Park Hyatt through bustling Viaduct Harbour, a pedestrian-friendly precinct along the waterfront that has numerous fashionable restaurants and shops lining its cobblestone streets. At its heart is the 99-room, five-suite Hotel Britomart.

The property’s brick-walled ground floor consists of a pass-through front desk area that leads to a small lounge and the buzzy Kingi restaurant. As casual as the standing check-in was, the orientation to our Te

Puna Suite, one of the five exclusive Landing Suites, was quite formal and thorough (with detailed explanations on how to use the technologically advanced but inevitably vexing light switches).

At $1,500 a night, the 10th-floor suite was similar in size but three times more expensive than the one at the Park Hyatt. The ample living room, with an L-shaped sofa, was inviting, but the bedroom was awkwardly arranged: If I opened one of the two closet doors at the foot of our bed, it blocked access to the bath. And despite all the instructions, we experienced frustrating technical issues: The coffee machine needed descaling, the bedroom TV had to be rebooted and reprogrammed, and one rogue recessed light refused to turn off. Maintenance was responsive, but it felt as though we were the suite’s first occupants to work out its bugs. One saving grace was that the electric blinds blocked every ray of light and left the room pitch-black, lulling us into a deep sleep.

I liked a great deal about The Hotel Britomart, notably its proximity to shops and cafés, especially along the plant-filled Te Ara Tahuhu Walkway. The staff were friendly and accommodating, and the hotel was lively and hip. But with a mediocre restaurant, no spa and a private bar (the Libraries) that closed too early, there just weren’t enough high points for it to score a recommendation. H

NEWLY RECOMMENDED

Park Hyatt Auckland RATING 92

Our room’s spacious deck and views; the elaborate breakfasts; the canine “concierge,” Beau; the variety of restaurants and bars in the hotel and surrounding neighborhood.

DISLIKE

The harried staff; the wait to check in; the inconsistent drinks at the Captain’s Bar; the Living Room’s early closing hour.

GOOD TO KNOW

The spa’s hydrotherapy room is coed; the pedestrian bridge between the Wynyard Quarter and Viaduct Harbour recently reopened.

ROOM TO BOOK

All suites have water views, but the high-level Harbour Suite showcases the skyline as well.

BENEFITS

A $100 hotel credit; daily breakfast for two; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.

$; Wynyard

The Hotel Britomart RATING 89

The complimentary airport transfer; the light-blocking blinds; the lightning-fast in-room dining.

DISLIKE

The lack of a cover on our room-service food; the unimpressive Kingi restaurant; the technical difficulties; the lack of amenities; our suite’s awkward layout.

GOOD TO KNOW Private dining is available at the Libraries bar.

ROOM TO BOOK

The Wairoa Suite, for its terrace and separate living space.

$$$; Britomart

Harbour Suite bath, Park Hyatt Auckland

NEW LUXURY IN NEW ZEALAND

A string of plush hideaways enticed us back to the South Island

The archipelago of New Zealand finds its way onto countless bucket lists, and it’s become a popular destination for expats. While debates rage over whether the North or South Island is better, I’m happy to visit either at any opportunity. The South Island has long drawn adventure-seekers — it is, after all, the place that popularized bungee jumping. Travelers come to experience the skiing, climbing, rafting, jet boating and fly-fishing.

But its extreme beauty is just as exhilarating. The South Island is home to eight of the country’s Great Walks, the beech forests and tussock grasslands of the Southern Alps and New Zealand’s largest national park, featuring dramatic fjords and waterfalls. Contrastingly manicured vineyards famously produce fine Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, among other justly acclaimed wines. The region’s luxury lodges provide exceedingly comfortable and scenic bases for exploring all the island has to offer. My traveling companion and I strung several together, beginning our journey in Southland and making our way north to Canterbury.

Cabot Lodge

Southwest of Queenstown is Fiordland National Park, where travelers venture to explore the fjords of Milford and Doubtful sounds, see the glowworm caves, fish the trout-rich Waiau River and traverse Great Walks, like the 37-mile Kepler Track.

Just outside the park, intimate Cabot Lodge sits atop Cathedral Peaks Station, a 2,000-acre working farm with uninterrupted views of mountains and Lake Manapouri. Husband-and-wife team Brad and Breidi Alexander run the lodge while also managing the extensive farm with Breidi’s parents, who have been its stewards for almost 50 years. In 1999, Frank and Anne Cabot, the worldrenowned horticulturists from New York, stopped by unannounced after hearing of the beautiful gardens there. A partnership quickly formed, the farm was greatly expanded, and the Cabots built a residence on its highest peak, Freestone Hill. Today, that home is Cabot Lodge, the four-room retreat that the Alexanders have lovingly refurbished.

We arrived just in time for evening canapés in the lounge, where Brad mixed our complimentary cocktails and chatted with each couple — two sets of honeymooners and a sophisticated older pair. Brad’s sincere hospitality exemplified the warm service we’d experience throughout our stay.

Each of the lodge’s four accommodations occupies its own stand-alone building, all connected by a covered walkway. The complex encircles a central courtyard whose landscaping would make the Cabots proud.

Our recently renovated three-room Deluxe Takatimu Suite was fresh and immaculate, with beechwood ceilings, jewel-toned velvet furnishings, framed botanical and bird prints and vases of puffy pink peonies. I particularly loved the TV nook, which was backed by a whimsical forest-print wallpaper. Like those in the other suites, sizable windows showcased the sheep-dotted hillsides cascading down to

NEWLY RECOMMENDED

Cabot Lodge

RATING 94

The excellent location and views; the warm hospitality; the complimentary laundry service; the free minibar; the farm tour; the nightly canapés and cocktails; the chef’s dinners with local ingredients; their two miniature horses, Al Capony and Pony Soprano.

DISLIKE

The bed’s uncovered box springs; the stark-white LED lights in the living room lamps; the lack of privacy in our bedroom overlooking the parking lot; the small bath.

GOOD TO KNOW

The property can be booked for exclusive use for four or eight people; the famous Two Wee Bookshops is just around the corner, and you can buy the owner’s memoir at the lodge.

ROOM TO BOOK

Either the Deluxe Suite (with a fireplace) or Premier Suite (with a kitchen), both of which have high ceilings and larger baths.

$$$; Manapouri

Entrance (opposite) and terrace, Cabot Lodge, Manapouri

Deluxe Suite, Cabot Lodge

REVISITED

Fiordland Lodge RATING 89

The view from the lodge; the game room; the convenience to the town of Te Anau; the proximity to Doubtful and Milford sounds and the Kepler Track.

DISLIKE

The high nightly rate that didn’t include any excursions or alcohol; the lack of on-property activities or walking trails; the misleading Lodge Room image on the website.

GOOD TO KNOW

There is no spa, but there are two reservable Jacuzzis with views. All experiences are booked through external operators. A new fivebedroom modern Lake House, 3 miles from the lodge, has been added. On-property helicopter services are available.

ROOM TO BOOK

Deluxe Lodge Room for its privacy, views and high ceilings.

$$$; Te Anau

the lake. Unfortunately, we had to draw the drapes in our bedroom, which felt exposed to the parking lot. If I could have improved anything else, it would have been the bath, which had only one sink and no convenient counter space.

But the many positives outweighed those quibbles. The owners and staff seemed to know what we wanted before we did. Brief asides led to bookings being made and itineraries being drawn up, detailing not only when to be where but how to dress and what to pack. Highlights of our visit were the informative farm tour, guided by the charming Breidi, and the phenomenal food. After cocktails each evening, we relished dishes like hearty venison-sweet-potato shepherd’s pie, succulent beef over potato fondant and pan-fried cod with roasted cauliflower and green apple with red-wine fish jus.

Somehow, the Alexanders make raising two toddlers, managing 7,000 head of livestock and running a luxury lodge look effortless. During our stay, they extended that same sense of ease to us.

Fiordland Lodge

Just 15 minutes north is Cabot Lodge’s closest competitor, the family-owned Fiordland Lodge. Built in 2002, it has been part of the Andrew Harper Collection for years. The property sits in a breathtakingly beautiful

corner of the South Island, also at the gateway of Fiordland National Park. The location is impeccable, but negative feedback from members prompted us to give the hotel another look ourselves.

The commanding views are the property’s standout feature. In the central lounge, giant timbers support vaulted wooden ceilings and frame 36-foot windows that capture the glistening Lake Te Anau and the mountains of the park. Every evening there, we enjoyed complimentary canapés — but non-gratis cocktails — in front of a crackling fire and felt privileged to witness whatever atmospheric show Mother Nature had in store for us. Afterward, guests would repair to the adjoining restaurant for a threecourse dinner. We appreciated local fare like Fiordland venison, West Coast gurnard (a whitefish) and Lumina lamb, but the dishes were unimaginative.

Our second-floor Deluxe Lodge Room was undeniably comfortable, with exceptional views and high ceilings, but the nubby wool carpet, textured walls and small, basic bath looked dated and homely. However, I came to appreciate our space more after I got a look at a Lodge Room on the first floor. It was darker, with low ceilings, and not at all what was pictured online.

Given that outdoor activities are such a draw here — upward of 20 experiences are listed on the website — it was unfortunate that

Milford Sound, Fiordland National Park

“ Returning this year, we were excited to try out the winery’s latest addition: a lodge and spa.

none were included in the price of our stay. More disappointing was that no one asked us what we planned to do, not until they saw us leaving for the day (consultations would have been welcome). For a hotel with a maximum of 27 guests — in 10 rooms, two cabins and one new owner’s residence — we expected more-personalized service. If Fiordland Lodge were the only luxury option in the area, we might continue to recommend it, but Cabot Lodge was better in all respects.

Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa

In the 1980s, Gibbston Valley Winery, located near Queenstown, was the first to plant commercial vines in Central Otago. Its success led other producers to follow suit, and today, the area is filled with wineries along the Gibbston River. We visited a few years ago and loved its Pinot Noirs and sparkling rosés so much that I signed up for its wine club on the spot. Returning this year, we were excited to try out the winery’s latest addition: the

Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa, which joined the complex’s cellar door (tasting room), wine cave, deli and lunch-only restaurant in 2019.

The hotel’s 24 villas line the driveway that leads to a gray-stone lodge containing the lobby, lounge and restaurant. We had heard from locals that this hotel wouldn’t be as “hosted” as others on our trip, and we realized what they meant at check-in, where we were handed the keys to our accommodation and pointed in its general direction. The landscaping of red-leaf maples and blooming lavender bordering the walkways provided some distraction from the annoyance of wheeling our own bags to our lodging.

I found the interior of our One Bedroom Villa tasteful if somewhat bland, awash in taupe and greige. But what it lacked in character, it made up for in size. The 700-square-foot unit seemed brand-new, with vaulted ceilings, wood floors, a gas fireplace, a wet bar and sliding glass doors that opened to a small terrace overlooking the

NEWLY RECOMMENDED

Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa RATING 91

The setting on the Gibbston River Trail; the spacious accommodations; the e-bikes for rent; the excursion to nearby wineries.

DISLIKE

Our villa’s proximity to the road and its lack of personality; the early 10 a.m. checkout.

GOOD TO KNOW

The Gibbston Valley Lodge shouldn’t be confused for the Gibbston Valley Resort, a planned residential community just down the highway; the winery restaurant is open for lunch only; there is a private helipad and cinema.

ROOM TO BOOK

All villas are the same, but Nos. 8 and 9 offer more privacy.

$$; Gibbston

Villas and vineyard, Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa, Gibbston

vines. If not for the highway, which could be heard but thankfully not seen, it would have been a perfect place to relax. Back inside, a carpeted bedroom was two steps up from the living room, closets flanked the steps, and barn doors could be pushed together to divide the two rooms. Our inviting bath contained a deep tub, a sizable shower, double sinks and a countertop that spanned the length of the space. Finally, we could spread out.

Wine, of course, is the focus here. We sampled Gibbston’s iconic Central Otago Pinots during the complimentary on-site tasting and rented e-bikes on the property to ride the wine trail. Time ran out to visit the small spa and outdoor hot tubs, but we relaxed instead in leather club chairs facing the cylindrical fireplace in the lodge, where we also took our breakfast and dinner.

Gibbston Valley Lodge & Spa is a place you come to enjoy the surrounding vineyards rather than bask in over-the-top service, but you’ll find everything you need for a rewarding stay.

The Lindis

Taking a high-mountain road through the scenic Lindis Pass, we discovered that our December timing was perfect: Pretty pink and purple lupines blanketed riverbanks at the base of undulant alpine terrain. Our goal was The Lindis, a remote lodge in the Ahuriri Valley. We had been forewarned that the last road to the hotel would be gravel for several miles, and we were grateful that we drove it during the day.

At the heart of the property’s 6,500 acres, the nearly hidden lodge emerged. Its graceful wooden roofline suggested a bird in flight, or perhaps a weathered spaceship that had skimmed the valley floor and landed next to a braided river, seamlessly blending with the terrain. As the wind gusted, staff members took our car, ushered us inside and offered Champagne. From the lounge, we admired the full scope of the setting through a curved wall of windows. A manager oriented us to the area with a map, asked for signatures on indemnity waivers and gave us radios to use in case we got lost on a hike. This is, after all, an unforgiving and sometimes tempestuous environment.

Accommodations comprise two Master Suites and three Lodge Suites in the main building and three stand-alone pods, reflecting the landscape from mirrored exterior walls. The design of our lavish “Ribbonwood” Lodge Suite employed an appealing mix of shapes and textures: wood paneling, bluestone masonry, metallic finishes and velvet armchairs and drapes. But it was the sweeping view of the glacial valley captured in the floor-to-ceiling windows that really grabbed my attention.

Though well appointed, our open-plan room had a few drawbacks, most notably the bath, elements of which were dispersed around the room. The single sink was on a wall behind the bed, and the tub sat beside the fireplace. In the opposite corner, a clearglass shower door offered similarly scant privacy, and the swinging doors of the WC were unwieldy. Our bed was extremely comfortable, and at first, the light of the full moon shining through the undraped tops of the windows felt quite romantic. But it was so bright as to keep us awake! (The Lindis borders a Dark Sky reserve.)

Our days were defined by contrasts. We greatly enjoyed exploring the farthest reaches of the rugged property via 4WD and

NEWLY RECOMMENDED

The Lindis RATING 93

The views of the valley; the food and music in the dining room; the thoughtful service; the solid Wi-Fi despite being in the middle of nowhere; the comfortable bed.

DISLIKE

The room temperature is not adjustable; the lights can be tricky; the curtains don’t completely cover the curved windows.

GOOD TO KNOW

The Te Araroa Trail cuts right through the middle of the valley; no children under 12 unless for an exclusive buyout.

ROOM TO BOOK

Any of the five suites in the lodge.

$$$$; Ahuriri Valley

Clockwise from top: The lodge, cocktail and appetizers in the bar, a stand-alone pod and Master Suite, The Lindis, Ahuriri Valley; New Zealand sheep striking a pose

“ Three stand-alone pods reflect the landscape from mirrored exterior walls.

getting blown sideways during a hike in the valley, knowing that sumptuous surroundings, complimentary cocktails and canapés, and divine New Zealand food and wine awaited us back at the hotel. The Lindis compellingly juxtaposes untamed nature and civilized luxury.

Flockhill

Our final hotel on the South Island blended the best features of the previous properties while leaving out their flaws: stunning scenery, abundant on-site activities, exceptional (included) food, warm and attentive staff and a master mixologist. It was, in short, the apotheosis of a luxury lodge in New Zealand. Even more impressive was that it had just opened.

Situated just 75 minutes from Christchurch, Flockhill is set on a historic sheep station nestled in a picturesque valley near Arthur’s Pass. This extraordinary 36,000-acre plot is notable as a filming location for “The Chronicles of Narnia” and for its exclusive ranch-style Homestead, featuring four bedrooms, a private chef and all the amenities you’d expect for five figures a night. Now a wider audience can experience Flockhill for themselves. In December, it unveiled seven Villas and a restaurant, Sugarloaf, within a stylish new lodge. As two of the hotel’s first guests, we braced ourselves for occasional

NEWLY RECOMMENDED

Flockhill RATING 95

The kindness of the staff; the fantastic bartender; the superb food at Sugarloaf restaurant; seeing the sheepdogs work; the horseback riding; the two complimentary on-site activities per day.

DISLIKE

The Villas’ somewhat institutional-feeling baths.

GOOD TO KNOW

The property is near the limestone formations of Castle Hill, called “the spiritual centre of the universe” by the Dalai Lama, and the Te Ana Maori Rock Art Centre. Time permitting, take the Tranzalpine train to nearby Arthur’s Pass.

ROOM TO BOOK

A Deluxe Suite, for the separate lounge.

BENEFITS

Homestead guests receive a guided boulder hike and picnic lunch.

$$$$; Lake Pearson

“ This extraordinary 36,000-acre plot is notable as a filming location for ‘The Chronicles of Narnia’ and for its exclusive Homestead.

hiccups but experienced just one, when we arrived in the rain. While our luggage was delivered by buggy, we had to walk to our suite under umbrellas. For the rest of our stay, a golf cart was always standing at the ready at the lodge.

Each of the Villas is divided into three sections. Guests can book a Junior Suite, as we did; add a central lounge to make it a Deluxe Suite; or book an entire Villa. Our 550-square-foot room had high pitched ceilings, a fireplace and a massive window surveying the Southern Alps. Blackout blinds fabricated to Flockhill’s exact specifications proved that oddly shaped windows don’t have to ruin a night’s sleep. The sleek gray-stone bath was spacious but would have benefited from organic touches like flowers, wooden shelves or woven rugs.

The rewarding experiences at Flockhill were seemingly endless. Horseback riding

amid bleating sheep on a high-country plain, surrounded by mountains dusted with late-season snow, was unforgettable. And watching the station’s talented shepherd work with her dogs was an absolute delight. At the end of an active day, we sat down to chef Taylor Cullen’s wonderful dishes — all fresh from the garden, greenhouses, rivers and paddocks — and the creations of the personable bartender, Théo.

Each staff member exuded a generosity of spirit, and it stems from the top. Flockhill tapped the jovial Andrew Cullen as its GM, who comes with experience managing Aman resorts in Indonesia and the longrecommended Treetops Lodge & Estate in Rotorua. And he comes well supported — his wife, Sandra, works the front desk and his son is the acclaimed chef. For a few days at Flockhill, they all made us feel not only at home but like a part of the family. H

A bath in the Homestead and bedroom of a Villa, Flockhill, Lake Pearson

MY FAVORITE EXCURSIONS

Encompassing almost 3 million acres in the southwestern part of New Zealand’s South Island, Fiordland National Park is home to three of the country’s Great Walks (the Milford, Kepler and Routeburn tracks), three sounds (Milford, Doubtful and Dusky) and an abundance of fjords, waterfalls, rainforests and lakes.

Two towns serve as gateways to the park: Te Anau and Manapouri, which are about 20 minutes apart. We stayed in the area for five days to reacquaint ourselves with the region. Our Travel Office can arrange all the activities and excursions below (visit AndrewHarper .com for more extensive descriptions).

Te Anau

This small, laid-back town sits at the south end of the lake that shares its name. It’s a great base for many of the activities on this list, but it’s also worth exploring on its own. Outfitters, cafés and restaurants line the main street, making it a delightful place to wander.

Fiordland Cinema

To better appreciate Fiordland National Park, head to the 52-seat Fiordland Cinema, in the heart of Te Anau, to view “Ata Whenua — Shadowland.” This 32-minute documentary is screened daily and offers viewers a breathtaking aerial perspective of the vast park.

Doubtful Sound

Rudyard Kipling deemed Milford Sound the eighth wonder of the world, and I highly recommend visiting, whether by flight, cruise or a combination of both. But just 64 miles south lies Doubtful Sound, which is 10 times larger than Milford Sound. It is less accessible, meaning that you can expect fewer tourists, less noise and a landscape that remains mostly untouched.

To reach Doubtful Sound, you must board a ferry in Manapouri for a one-hour

ride across Lake Manapouri, then take a bus through the rainforest of Wilmot Pass before embarking another boat to begin the cruise in the sound. This is a full-day experience, but seeing Doubtful Sound and the waterfalls up close is well worth your time.

Glowworm Caves

In Te Anau, we took a boat across Lake Te Anau to the Murchison Mountains, where we entered a 12,000-year-old cave. As we navigated the 650-foot path inside, the low ceiling forced us to duck to pass through. A powerful underground river rushed beneath and around us.

At the Glowworm Grotto, we boarded a small dinghy in the darkness to explore the last 150 feet of the cave. In silence, we glided through the water as our boat bumped against the walls. Surrounding us, bioluminescent worms glowed green in the darkness.

Bird Sanctuary

The Te Anau Bird Sanctuary on the shore of Lake Te Anau offers the opportunity to see birds that are difficult to spot in the wild. Self-guided tours are

free, while guided tours are $10 per adult. Closed for walk-ins on Wednesday and Sunday.

Two Wee Bookshops

At the corner of Home Street and HillsideManapouri Road in Manapouri sits the brightly colored Two Wee Bookshops. It is owned by the remarkable Ruth Shaw, who has led an adventurous life that she chronicles in her delightful memoir, “The Bookseller at the End of the World.” Stop in, and you may get to meet the inimitable Shaw yourself.

Find these additional stories in the Hideaway Report online edition at AndrewHarper.com

 A New Zealand Itinerary

 Auckland Restaurants

 Things to Do in Auckland

 New Zealand Bookshelf

 Plus videos of our stays

Clockwise from top: An endangered Kea, Doubtful Sound and Fiordland penguins

CLASSIC IRISH RETREATS

We took advantage of a Shannon layover to reevaluate two longtime recommendations

Recent luxury hotel openings get most of the spotlight in the Hideaway Report, but it’s also our happy duty to check on properties that we’ve endorsed for years. In western Ireland, Ashford Castle and Sheen Falls Lodge have been recommended for decades. The former, a 13th-century fortification with rambling later additions, stands on a lake about 45 minutes north of Galway. We continue to get good reports from members about Ashford Castle, but we haven’t seen it ourselves since 2017, following a major renovation. A re-review of Sheen Falls Lodge, set farther south, near the Ring of Kerry, was similarly overdue, considering that new owners took over in 2018.

Ashford Castle

An evergreen-lined road from the front gate winds through the golf course before dramatically revealing the impressive 83-room castle and lake. After we drove over the drawbridge, a formal but friendly doorman greeted us

and whisked away our luggage. Although several other guests were ahead of us, more staff appeared right on cue, including one with welcome drinks. We received a quick tour, completed the check-in formalities and headed to the suite to which we had been upgraded (the rate the Travel Office booked included an upgrade on arrival if available).

Our spacious Suite with views over Lough Corrib had teal silk walls adorned with antique paintings. A remote control operated the heavy curtains. The cushions on the couch looked a bit saggy, but the king bed in the next room was wonderfully comfortable, and the large marble bath with a double vanity and heated floors gleamed. Although the shower-tub combo didn’t dazzle, our second full bath made it feel churlish to complain.

On our last stay, we had an excellent dinner in the baronial George V Dining Room, which combines classic French techniques with local ingredients. This time, we opted for the more casual thatch-roofed Cullen’s at the Cottage, near the golf course. Waitstaff were welcoming, and I particularly enjoyed the creative dukkah-crusted Irish trout with clams and sorrel-butter sauce. Another night, we ate hearty Guinness bread and Martin Jennings’ Irish beef rib-eye at the Dungeon,

REVISITED

Ashford Castle RATING 96

Our magnificent Suite; the attentive staff; the delicious food; the sense of place; all the various activities.

DISLIKE

The lack of an in-room coffee maker; our saggy couch.

GOOD TO KNOW

Guests of The Lodge at Ashford Castle don’t have access to the castle’s spa without a booked treatment, but castle guests can use the new Éalú wellness center at The Lodge.

ROOM TO BOOK

A standard Suite is superb, but the Kennedy Suite is especially extravagant.

BENEFITS

Private historical tour of the castle; $100 hotel credit; daily breakfast for two; and early checkin, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.

$$$; Cong, County Mayo

Motorboat on Lough Corrib, with Ashford Castle in the background, Cong

decorated in a heavy medieval style. More incongruous is Stanley’s, which resembles a small 1950s diner (it serves delicious breakfasts).

We had only booked two nights at the castle, and we packed our time full of adventures. On an hourlong walk with a private guide through a dense forest, trained Harris hawks flew on and off our outstretched arms. We played a round of golf on the resort’s challenging 9-hole course and strolled into nearby Cong to visit a pub. On a scenic boat ride on the lake, we had the same charismatic captain as on our last visit in 2017! We also fit in a workout and swim at the fabulous new wellness center at The Lodge at Ashford Castle, a more casual sister hotel that’s a short walk from the main building.

Our splendid stay reconfirmed our high rating of the hotel. To make a compelling itinerary, combine Ashford Castle with a spell in the unspoiled Connemara region to the west at Ballynahinch Castle or Cashel House, plus stops to the south at Gregans Castle Hotel and then Adare Manor, which is less than an hour from the Shannon Airport.

Sheen Falls Lodge

Those interested in also circumnavigating the magnificent Ring of Kerry, south of Shannon, should add in a stay at the 77-room Sheen Falls Lodge. This long-recommended manor sits on 300 acres of woodlands outside the charming town of Kenmare, with views of Kenmare Bay and the Sheen Falls themselves (which are more like large rapids). After the property changed hands in 2018, it underwent a major refurbishment. The architecture of Sheen Falls is essentially contemporary, but interiors still have a classic country-house inspired design.

Although the bellman was welcoming, check-in was lukewarm, and our Superior Deluxe Room was a mixed bag. Its best feature was a lovely alcove with two comfy armchairs facing the falls. A roomy closet hid a minibar with a Nespresso machine, and the spacious marble bath had a large separate soaking tub. But the sizable water stain on the carpet and the worn baseboards throughout were rather less pleasing.

Dinner at the Stables Brasserie, with large glass windows and Pop Art-style paintings of

sheep, lifted our spirits. We enjoyed a complex salad of beet, St. Tola goat cheese, quinoa, pomegranate and smoked almonds, as well as the flavorful pan-seared Chilean sea bass. Our romantic dinner at the Falls, where the chef blends Irish and French cuisines to great effect, was even better.

One day, after a full Irish breakfast, we made a short drive to the Ring of Kerry Golf Club, owned and managed by the lodge. A torrential downpour, well timed after the ninth hole, caused us to seek shelter in the new Nua Vista restaurant above the clubhouse. We relaxed by a fire and had a light lunch. We felt so cozy that when the sun returned, it was tempting to stay inside rather than complete our round. Even if you’re not a golfer, I recommend making a reservation here to enjoy the sunset views over Kenmare Bay. Besides golf, activities at Sheen Falls include falconry, fishing and clay-pigeon shooting. On one of the many scenic walks on the property, we were happily startled when a sika buck pranced right past us. We swam in the beautiful glass-enclosed pool at the Easanna Spa. And it was a pleasure to simply relax in the beautifully renovated public spaces (my favorite was the library).

Despite a few annoyances and maintenance issues, Sheen Falls Lodge continues to be a worthwhile stop. It offers excellent cuisine and fun on-site diversions, and it’s a fine base for excursions into the sensationally scenic landscapes nearby. H

REVISITED

Sheen Falls Lodge RATING 90

Our meals at the Falls, Stables Brasserie and Nua Vista restaurants; the relaxing public areas; the splendid surrounding scenery.

DISLIKE

The stain on our room’s carpet; the nonchalant front desk personnel; the tiny locker rooms by the pool.

GOOD TO KNOW

Attractive four-bedroom Bay Villas are ideal for larger groups. Hotel guests receive half off greens fees at the Ring of Kerry Golf Club.

ROOM TO BOOK

The Oscars Suite, for its terrace overlooking the falls.

BENEFITS

A $100 hotel credit; daily breakfast for two; welcome bottle of wine or Champagne; and early check-in, late checkout and upgrade at time of arrival, subject to availability.

$$; Kenmare, County Kerry

Afternoon tea, Sheen Falls Lodge, Kenmare

TOP RESORTS FOR FAMILIES

Exploring the world creates bonds that last a lifetime

One of best things parents and grandparents can give to children is the gift of memories, and vacationing together is an ideal way to make them. This list includes some of the most exceptional properties around the world that do a particularly noteworthy job of catering to families, offering enriching activities for kids while ensuring that parents can indulge in well-deserved relaxation.

One&Only Mandarina Mexico

About an hour north of Punta Mita along the Riviera Nayarit, the glamorous 150-room One&Only Mandarina eco-resort has some of the best children’s facilities and programs in the country. In addition to an impressive 42,000-square-foot multilevel “Swiss Family Robinson”-style kids’ club, the hotel features separate family and adults-only swimming pools cantilevered over the Pacific, plus a childfriendly pool at the beach. The gentle surf makes it easy for little ones to wade and swim in the ocean, too. Families can also enjoy activities like cooking classes, horseback riding and exploring the on-site butterfly farm.

Hotel Bareiss Germany

In Germany’s Black Forest, the luxurious Hotel Bareiss presents beautifully landscaped gardens, indoor and outdoor swimming pools and an outstanding spa. Multibedroom Family Apartments accommodate three to four guests. Weekly changing programs for “Minis, Maxis and Teens” will keep younger ones entertained. On-site kids’ amenities include a petting zoo and water playground, and geocaching,

paddleboarding, pony rides, kayaking excursions and torch-lit night hikes are available. Meanwhile, parents can savor gourmet meals at the Michelin three-star restaurant and relax in pastoral serenity.

Alisal Ranch California

On a 10,500-acre estate in the Santa Ynez Valley, a 50-minute drive west of Santa Barbara, Alisal Ranch has the authentic feel of the Western frontier. The 73-room resort is intended for multigenerational family vacations, and a wide array of activities are available for children of all ages, like guided horseback rides, fishing in a springfed lake, tennis and roping lessons. The Breakfast Ride on horseback or aboard a hay wagon, rodeos (offered Memorial Day to Labor Day), and the summer seafood barbecues at the lake are especially popular.

Domaine des Etangs France

Acquired by Auberge Resorts in 2023, Domaine des Etangs is located in the little-known Charente region northeast of Bordeaux. Scattered across the estate’s 2,500 acres, 17 lodgings are located in a 13th-century château, a farmhouse and one- to five-bedroom stone cottages with full kitchens, gardens and living and dining areas. This sumptuous property is deliberately family-friendly, offering horseback riding, farm tours and rowboats on several of the ponds that give the estate its name. There is also a playroom stocked with children’s books, board games, costumes and puppets, and a floating tennis court, a 50-foot zip line and three in-ground trampolines and a giant chessboard are located nearby.

Cottar’s 1920s Camp Kenya

While many safari lodges require children to be a certain age, the vintagestyle Cottar’s 1920s Camp, located adjacent to the Maasai Mara, welcomes all little ones. In fact, those 5 and under stay for free. Of the property’s 11 luxury tents, four are two-bedroom family tents with a shared living area. Perfect for those traveling with multiple children is the five-bedroom Bush Villa, which has its own pool. In addition to game drives and school visits, Cottar’s offers a fascinating range of kid-oriented activities, including a junior entomologist program and a Warrior School, in which children are taught

Clockwise from top left: Estelle Manor, England; Four Seasons Resort Lanai, Hawaii; Cottar’s 1920s Camp, Kenya; and Galapagos Safari Camp, Ecuador

local traditions including fire making, spear throwing and Maasai jumping.

Eden Roc Cap Cana

Dominican Republic

On the east end of the island, Eden Roc Cap Cana encompasses 68 suites housed within brightly painted cottages surrounding a lagoonlike pool. Lodgings each sit on their own plots for privacy, with back terraces and small pools and spas, making them selfcontained worlds perfect for families. While parents play a round on the Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course or enjoy a treatment at the spa, children can roam free in dedicated spaces: a super-

vised kids’ pool, an enclosed sandy “beach” staffed with lifeguards and, beside an artificial lagoon, a tree housestyle club. Child-size kayaks and adventure camping tents are also available.

Four Seasons Resort Lanai

Hawaii

The Four Seasons brand is known for its family-friendliness, and the Four Seasons Resort Lanai is no exception. Highlights specific to this island retreat include a two-tiered adventure tower with an obstacle course and a zip line, an on-site observatory offering stargazing lessons and a cultural center where children can participate in hula

and ukulele classes, bracelet weaving, lei making and poi preparation. A rancher experience is also offered for those age 9 and up.

Acqualina Resort & Residences Florida

On Miami’s Sunny Isles Beach, the lavish Mediterranean-style Acqualina Resort & Residences sits on 4.5 acres fronted by 400 feet of white sand. AcquaMarine, a marine biology program, is a complimentary service offered Friday through Sunday for ages 4 to 12. Activities may include engaging seashell-themed artsand-crafts classes, animal-protection lessons, beach yoga and even cultural immersion through Spanish-language classes. Midweek sessions can be arranged upon advance reservation.

Estelle Manor England

On an expansive parkland estate in Oxfordshire, the stately Estelle Manor hotel and country club sounds perhaps too genteel for little ones, but the property offers proper family adventures. Kids can take the wheel of scaleddown Land Rovers and enjoy supervised den building, archery, falconry and bird-watching. Parents can unwind at the Roman-inspired spa, while the heated outdoor pool and game room offer more opportunities for fun. Though children under the age of 13 are not permitted in Manor House lodgings, the two-bedroom Woodland Cabins and three- to six-bedroom houses are ideal for those traveling with youngsters.

Galapagos Safari Camp

Ecuador

The original upscale land base in this famous archipelago is the Galapagos Safari Camp on the island of Santa Cruz. The three-bedroom Family Suite is the very same home in which husband-andwife founders Stephanie Bonham Carter and Michael Mesdag raised their children. Activities like fishing adventures, day cruises to uninhabited islands, hands-on biodiversity classes and giant tortoise visits provide kids with a deep understanding of the wildlife and unique ecosystems of the Galápagos.

Visit the online version of the Hideaway Report to view more of our favorite family resorts, at AndrewHarper.com

ADVISORS’ EXPLORATIONS

The editorial team has worked with our Travel Office advisors on countless undercover trips of our own, because it’s quite possible that they’ve been to a destination more recently than we have. They always come back with valuable information about notable hotels. Plus, since they make local contacts who can provide insider experiences, we count on our advisors to arrange captivating excursions with top guides. Relying on them saves a lot of time and results in much more interesting itineraries. Here are updates about some of our advisors’ recent and upcoming travels.

Portugal

truly stood out. The chef and his team chatted with guests, a fun and informative guide led our waterfall hike, and a friendly yoga instructor helped kick-start my day. Origins is working on a new building, which will feature larger accommodations and a range of kids’ activities. — Susan Blechschmidt, 40-plus years’ experience

Vietnam

TRAVEL GOALS

I“ I began my memorable journey through Portugal in Lisbon, where our private gastronomic tour was a real highlight. We can also organize this chef-led experience for you, of course. And the fado singing at the main restaurant of the Valverde Hotel in Lisbon, where we stayed, was delightful. In the Douro Valley, we had an excellent time at the Six Senses property after a day of wine tasting. I highly recommend a cruise down the Douro River and can help you select the best boat to suit your preferences. Our last stop was Porto and The Yeatman hotel. While I loved a fascinating guided walking tour, exploring the city’s many shops and restaurants on my own was also great fun! — Cindy Nelson, 35-plus years’ experience

Costa Rica

“ My itinerary through Vietnam was filled with exceptional experiences. In Hanoi, I can arrange unique activities such as bicycling outings around West Lake, craft beer tastings and an exclusive guided tour of the Old Quarter that explores specialized streets. I also took a cruise to Lan Ha Bay, an alternative to crowded Ha Long Bay. A must in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) is a speedboat ride along the river to the Cu Chi Tunnels. As the north and south of this beautiful country have distinct weather patterns, I am happy to strategize about timing and itineraries in order to make the best trip possible for you and your family. — Laura Triebe, 30-plus years’ experience

Southern Africa

“ On past visits to Costa Rica, I have always loved the adults-only Nayara Springs retreat, but this was my first time checking out its exclusive tented camp. I thoroughly enjoyed the sloth walk and boat ride on Lake Arenal, and the area offers an abundance of additional excursions. At Origins hotel, it was the amazing staff that

“ I’ll soon be doing another safari, this time in southern Africa. I’ll start at one of the top safari lodges there, Wilderness Mombo Camp in Botswana’s Okavango Delta, and then head to magnificent Victoria Falls. I’ll transition to city life in Cape Town, staying at Fairmont’s newly renovated Cape Grace hotel before visiting the rugged coastline of Hermanus at Birkenhead House. There’s something uniquely soul-stirring about safari. I’m excited to return with the tools to provide Harper members with first-hand feedback, helping to elevate your future journeys to this magnificent part of the world. — Marianne McNulty, 40-plus years’ experience

f aliens were to arrive today to study why earthlings travel, they might conclude that our primary goal is to get envy-inducing content for social media. Now, I love making people envious as much as the next guy (not for nothing am I editor-in-chief of a luxury travel publication). But what I really want are memorable experiences that I can tell compelling stories about, and I want to reminisce with the people who accompany me. Most often, I like to remember something unexpected, or a truly exclusive or insider activity. But with more people globe-trotting than ever before, finding the exclusive and the insider has become increasingly difficult. I find I rely more and more on local partners introduced to me by advisors at our Travel Office. They have the contacts and the top guides who know how to make extraordinary things happen. Just as important, they work with my travel advisor to make my longer itineraries seamless and stress-free. I used to turn to hotel concierges for help, but too often, “concierges” are just front desk clerks with OpenTable accounts. Seeing a Clefs d’Or pin has become all too rare. For trips in which I want easy planning and top guides, I put my trust in the local experts the Travel Office trusts.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Since the launch of the Hideaway Report in 1979, featured hotels and restaurants have been selected on a completely independent basis. Unless otherwise noted, editors travel undercover as Andrew Harper members and pay for all lodging, meals and related expenses.