Issue 139

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can cost almost five times as much as non-organic ones. But according to Tania, savvy consumers can get away with paying only 15 percent more. To keep costs down, she buys some of her supplies directly from the distributor. She and Eddy buy produce by the case; carrots, apples and beans, for example, can keep for months in their garage. Fruits that are perishable, like bananas, are only bought in bulk if she can split cases with others. And whatever isn’t consumed is frozen to be made into smoothies. As a working mother with limited time, Tania cooks healthy foods that don’t require a lot of effort. “I buy seasonal produce and go for simplicity. Most palates are used to processed food, which means additional sugar. If you’re used to eating sugared almonds or glazed peanuts, you’ll obviously prefer them over uncooked, unsalted, raw peanuts. But if you allow yourself to develop a taste for them, you’ll realize they’re sweet.” How do her children take to all this? “My kids were raised on it, though they do enjoy an occasional Coke or piece of candy. I educate them about the importance of reading food labels and give them articles occasionally to read. In class, the teacher once asked the children what they eat for breakfast. My son answered oatmeal. His classmates wanted to know what flavor. Why does oatmeal have to have a flavor? My children are proud that they eat natural, healthy food. David will sometimes slice a banana and add raspberry syrup if he wants to create a beautiful and healthy snack. Lately he’s been experimenting with drinks, so he’ll brew a cup of green tea, and add a little cherry juice and a few frozen raspberries. He looks for real fruit flavors rather than sugar. We keep coconut sugar and honey in the house, so it’s easy to create a variety of flavors without adding chemical ones.” For Tania, it’s also about setting financial priorities and organizing her week. Since she doesn’t have time to patronize numerous stores, she takes advantage of the local co-op, which caters to like-minded organic enthusiasts.

My Next Stop

The Cooperative de la Maison Verte, which I visited next, is located in the heart of Notre-Dame-de-Grâce, one of Montreal’s most culturally diverse boroughs. The co-op is an environmentalist’s dream. The look is starkly functional. The floor’s wooden planks are seriously distressed, while the overhead lighting is dim; most of the illumination streams in from two large picture windows overlooking Sherbrooke Street, a main thoroughfare. Plain wooden shelves carry a variety of household products that are, of course, environmentally friendly, biodegradable and GMO-free. There are delicious-smelling soaps, shampoos, laundry detergents and household cleansers as well nontoxic markers and eco-friendly glues. I’m surprised to find disposable cutlery that looks like plastic but is actually derived from celery and corn, and even disposable, fragrance-free diapers made from unbleached cotton.

To keep costs down and for recycling purposes, customers bring their own bottles or make use of empty ones that the coop provides. Many of these products are sold by weight. Steel shelving holds the standard organic fare: nuts, beans, pasta and processed foods, as well as today’s health-food darlings: Goji berries, chia seeds and wild rice pasta for those on gluten-free diets. Most of these products are locally grown or produced, although some are imported from Europe, India and South America. Many are kosher and are available in bulk. An annual fee of $10 entitles members to certain discounts. Tania comes here once a month to stock up on detergent and other necessities, and brings her own bottles. She finds the prices unbeatable. It’s a relaxing environment. Soft electronic music creates a tranquil mood as patrons seated on barstools sip organic lattes or chat with the interesting and informed salespeople. The customers are of all ages and walks of life, from 20-something professionals to young mothers with newborns to the elderly. What they all share is an intense interest in health and what they call a social and environmental consciousness. Not everybody, though, buys into the organic vision in every regard. Most of the people I spoke with were reasoned advocates. Claudia, a 25-yearold web designer, whispered to me that she eats everything, both organic and non-organic. She shares some of the co-op’s environmental concerns but believes that going organic is only part of the solution. “If you’re buying organic celery from California, you’re paying for the gas to transport it thousands of miles to get here. You have to combine the advantages of going organic with common sense.” Dominique, an engineer in her 30s, agrees. One of her favorite beverages is kombucha, a strong-smelling fermented tea that is filled with “good bacteria.” She and Tania discuss its benefits and Tania offers advice on how to make it yourself. “I’m from Russia,” she tells her. “We had jars of it in the house. I even wash my hair with it.” I sniff the kombucha and nearly gag. It is, apparently, an acquired taste. “I feel more energetic when I drink it,” Dominique says. “A lot of things affect our health, like going to sleep on time and not eating too much. Foods like kombucha are not a cure-all, just an added boost.” Blonde-haired Matteo has been working in the co-op since January. He loves his job because of its noncorporate mentality (everyone is treated equally, regardless of position), but mostly because of its mission. “The goal isn’t to beef up our profits, but to increase social and environmental awareness. Before we place orders we research the producers’ level of responsible production, like whether or not they adhere to organic standards, fair trade, and how they treat animals bred for meat.” The majority of their products come from local farmers and artisans; it’s a way of supporting their community. This is tremendously important, especially now that the 1 2 C H E S H VA N 5 7 7 4

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