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AMERICAN TECHNICAL PUBLISHERS Orland Park, Illinois 60467-5756

Daniel M. Pliska

Pastry & Dessert Techniques contains procedures commonly practiced in the foodservice industry. For maximum safety, always refer to specific manufacturer recommendations, insurance regulations, specific job site procedures, applicable federal, state, and local regulations, and any authority having jurisdiction. The material contained is intended to be an educational resource for the user. American Technical Publishers, Inc. assumes no responsibility or liability in connection with this material or its use by any individual or organization.

American Technical Publishers, Inc., Editorial Staff Editor in Chief: Jonathan F. Gosse Vice President — Production: Peter A. Zurlis Director of Product Development: Cathy A. Scruggs Digital Media Manager: Carl R. Hansen Technical Editor: Cathy A. Scruggs

Copy Editor: Dane K. Hamann Cover Design: Melanie G. Doornbos Illustration/Layout: Melanie G. Doornbos Digital Resources: Robert E. Stickley Kathleen A. Moster Daniel Kundrat

Cover Photo Credits: Thad Allton (top), Rebecca Allen Photography (left), Bobby McRee Watson (upper right) The author and publisher would like to thank the following companies, organizations, and individuals for providing photos. All-Clad Metalcrafters American Metalcraft, Inc. Beth Snyder Bobby McRee Watson Browne Foodservice California Fresh Apricot Council Carlisle FoodService Products Charlie Trotter’s Cooper-Atkins Corporation Daniel NYC Detecto, A Division of Cardinal Scale Manufacturing Co. Dexter-Russell, Inc.

Ed Pfueller Emmi Weiner Florida Tomato Committee Frieda’s Specialty Produce Hobart Indian Harvest Specialtifoods, Inc./Rob Yuretich Irinox USA Lauren Frisch Lincoln Foodservice Matfer Bourgeat USA Messermeister National Cancer Institute National Cherry Growers and Industries Foundation

National Honey Board National Turkey Federation Paderno World Cuisine Rebecca Allen Photography Sara Trikenskas Seth Jayson Sullivan University Thad Allton Viking Commercial The Vollrath Company, LLC Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, Inc.

Baileys is a registered trademark of R & A Bailey and Co. Boursin is a registered trademark of Societe de la Fromagerie Boursin. Chambord is a registered trademark of Brown-Forman Corporation. Cointreau is a registered trademark of Cointreau Corporation. Frangelico is a registered trademark of T.J. Carolan & Son Limited. Grand Marnier is a registered trademark of Societe des Produits Marnier Lapostolle. Hobart is a registered trademark of Hobart Corporation. Kahlúa is a registered trademark of The Kahlúa Company. KitchenAid and Whirlpool are registered trademarks of Whirlpool Properties, Inc. Myers’s is a registered trademark of Diageo North America, Inc. Robot Coupe is a registered trademark of Robot Coupe USA. Splenda is a registered trademark of McNeil Nutritionals, LLC.

© 2014 by American Technical Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 –  14 –  9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in the United States of America    ISBN 978-0-8269-4267-8

This book is printed on recycled paper.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS At times, innovations in pastry arts seem to outpace the cooking world by leaps and bounds. However, the standard operating budget of many of today’s professional kitchens does not include a highly skilled pastry chef. For this reason, seasoned veterans of the professional kitchen as well as student apprentices and novice cooks can benefit from the foundational knowledge and skills being shared by the author of Pastry & Dessert Techniques. Author Daniel M. Pliska, CEC, AAC, is Executive Chef and Assistant Manager of the University Club at the University of Missouri where he directs four certified sous chefs and 35 kitchen staff for The University Club, University Catering and Event Services, and dining rooms at several fraternity houses. Chef Daniel trained and worked in first-class hotels, restaurants, and pastry shops in Washington, DC, Düsseldorf, Germany, and New Orleans before coming to Missouri. His 35-year career includes more than 20 years as an executive chef in private clubs and hotels. Chef Daniel has been an American Culinary Federation (ACF) certified executive chef for more than 15 years and was inducted into the American Academy of Chefs (AAC) in 2013. He is a supervising chef for the Johnson County ACF Chef Apprenticeship Program, is active on three culinary school advisory boards, judges many local, regional, and national culinary events, and is a current member of the ACF National Education Committee. He has received 10 ACF awards in cooking and pastry, including two grand prizes and a gold medal in cold food. Chef Daniel also gives cooking and pastry demonstrations at regional and national conferences and organizes and hosts culinary summits featuring master chefs, pastry chefs, and other experts on topics such as “Chocolate and Champagne,” “Farm to Table,” “Latin Food and Asian Food,” and the “Art of Food: Culinary Arts and the Media.” Chef Daniel has authored numerous articles for The National Culinary Review; Pastry Art & Design; Club & Resort Business; Club Management, The Official Publication of the Club Managers Association of America; and Columbia Home. He was also a contributing author of the “Baking & Pastry Station” in the National Apprenticeship Training Program for Cooks textbook released in 2012. Chef Daniel is currently president of the ACF Central Missouri Chapter and a member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP), the Chefs Collaborative, and Slow Food.

The author and publisher would like to thank the following experts for reviewing this book. J. Kevin Storm, CEC, AAC, CCA Executive Chef, Bellerive Country Club

Felix Sturmer, Hospitality Professor Johnson County Community College

Nathaniel Reid, Executive Pastry Chef The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, St. Louis






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WHIPPED CREAM Technique: Making Chocolate Whipped Cream Technique Recipe: Crème Chantilly (Sweetened Whipped Cream)

PASTRY CREAM Technique Recipe: Pastry Cream (Crème Pâtissière)

CRÈME ANGLAISE Technique: Making Crème Anglaise Technique Recipe: Crème Anglaise (English Cream)

BAVARIAN CREAM Technique: Making Bavarian Cream Technique Recipe: Bavarian Cream (Bavarois)

CRÈME CARAMEL Technique: Cooking a Sugar Solution to the Caramel Stage Technique Recipe: Crème Caramel (Flan)

BUTTERCREAMS Technique: Masking a Layer Cake with Buttercream Technique Recipe: French Buttercream Technique Recipe: Italian Buttercream Technique Recipe: German Buttercream

GANACHE Technique Recipe: Chocolate Truffles Made with Firm Ganache



pastry doughs

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PIE DOUGHS Technique: Using the Cutting-In Method of Mixing Flaky Pie Dough Technique: Using the Well Method of Mixing Flaky Pie Dough Technique: Mixing Flaky Pie Dough in a Mixing Machine Technique: Mixing Mealy Pie Dough in a Food Processor Technique: Lining a Sheet Pan with Pie Dough Technique Recipe: Pie Dough Made with Shortening and Butter Technique Recipe: Pie Dough Made with Butter and Egg Yolks

SWEET PASTRY DOUGH Technique: Making Tartlet Shells Technique Recipe: Sweet Pastry Dough (Pâte Sucrée)




Technique Recipe: Cream Puff Paste (Pâte à Choux) Technique: Making Gnocchi Parisienne

egg foams_____________________________________________________________________ SPONGE CAKE Technique: Making Génoise Technique Recipe: Génoise (French Sponge Cake)

SPONGE CAKE VARIATIONS Technique Recipe: Plain Biscuit Technique: Rolling Sponge Cake Technique Recipe: Biscuit Joconde (Almond Sponge Cake)

MERINGUES Technique Recipe: Meringue



PART II: savory pastry basics




Crêpes & Tarts

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CRÊPES Technique: Making Crêpes Recipe: Basic Crêpes Recipe: Smoked Salmon and Chive Crêpe Roulade with Watercress Lemon Mousseline Recipe: Scrambled Egg, Swiss Cheese, and Mushroom Crêpes with Champagne Cream Sauce

TARTS Technique: Making Filled and Baked Tarts Recipe: Goat Cheese Tarts with Sun-Dried Tomato Roasted Garlic Purée Recipe: Grilled Shrimp and Asparagus Tarts Recipe: Vegetable Boursin® Cheese Custard Tartlets



Convenience Pastry Doughs

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LAMINATED DOUGHS PHYLLO DOUGH Technique: Making Phyllo Logs Recipe: Oriental Portobello Mushroom Strudels Technique: Making Phyllo Triangles Recipe: Spanakopita (Greek Spinach Pie) Technique: Making Phyllo Purses Recipe: Tenderloin, Wild Mushroom, and Blue Cheese Purses




Puff Pastries

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TYPES OF PUFF PASTRY Recipe: Classic Puff Pastry (Pâte Feuilletée) Technique: Making Blitz Puff Pastry Recipe: Blitz Puff Pastry (Pâte Feuilletée Rapide) Recipe: Spinach, Prosciutto, and Whole-Grain Mustard Palmiers Recipe: Petite Bouchées Filled with Tuna Salad Niçoise Technique: Making Savory Puff Pastry Strudel Recipe: Ham, Swiss Cheese, and Cabbage Strudels


CONTENTS PART III: plate presentation Chapter



Dessert Sauces

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MAKING DESSERT SAUCES TYPES OF DESSERT SAUCES Recipe: Raspberry Chambord® Sauce Recipe: Kiln-Dried Cherry Beaujolais Wine Sauce Recipe: Fig and Blackberry Port Wine Sauce Recipe: Chocolate Sauce Recipe: Caramel Sauce Recipe: Crème Anglaise Recipe: Grand Marnier® Orange Sabayon Sauce Recipe: Champagne Lemon Sabayon Sauce

SIMPLE SYRUPS Recipe: Strawberry Lavender Syrup

FLAVOR PAIRING OPTIONS SAUCE PAINTING Technique: Painting with Sauces Technique: Making Paper Cornets Technique: Piping Chocolate Designs




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THE ORIGINS OF CHOCOLATE MELTING CHOCOLATE TEMPERING CHOCOLATE GANACHE Technique: Enrobing a Chocolate Truffle Torte Recipe: Liquid (coating) Ganache Technique: Making Chocolate Truffles Recipe: Chocolate Truffles Technique: Making Hazelnut Gianduja Bonbons Recipe: Hazelnut Gianduja Bonbons Recipe: White Chocolate Amaretto Spitz Bonbons

CHOCOLATE DECORATIONS Technique: Making Chocolate Shavings Technique: Making Chocolate Butterfly Filigrees Technique: Making Chocolate Curls



Plating & Displays

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PLATING STYLES GARNISHING Technique: Making Spoon-Shaped Tuile Cookie Garnishes Recipe: Basic Tuile Paste

TRAYS, PLATTERS, AND TABLE DISPLAYS SHOWPIECES Technique: Making Two-Toned Chocolate Spheres Technique: Making Chocolate Flower Stems


PART IV: classics & signatures




Classic Pastries & Desserts

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FRENCH CLASSICS Recipe: Tartes au Citron (Lemon Meringue Tarts) Recipe: Tarte aux Pommes Alsacienne (Alsatian Apple Tart) Recipe: Chocolate Soufflés Recipe: Crème Brûlée Recipe: Crêpes Suzette


GERMAN CLASSICS AUSTRIAN CLASSICS Technique: Making Viennese Apple Strudel Recipe: Wiener Apfelstrudel (Viennese Apple Strudel) Recipe: Linzertorten (Linzer Tortes) Recipe: Sachertorten (Sacher Tortes)

AMERICAN CLASSICS FROZEN CLASSICS Recipe: Lemon Champagne Granité Recipe: Frozen Grand Marnier® Parfaits Recipe: Frozen Raspberry Soufflés



Signature Pastries & Desserts

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DEFINING SIGNATURE DISHES CREATING SIGNATURE DISHES Signature Recipe: A Taste of Gold Signature Recipe: Almond Frangipane-Stuffed French Toast Signature Recipe: Gâteaux Monica Signature Recipe: Strawberry Napoleons Signature Recipe: Key Lime Mousse

SIGNATURE TORTES Signature Recipe: White Chocolate Mousse Tortes Signature Recipe: Orange Charlottes Royale Signature Recipe: Baileys® Irish Cream Mousse Tortes Technique: Making Biscuit Joconde Embossed with Cocoa Decorating Paste

Appendix Glossary Index

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273 279 291

introduction Pastry & Dessert Techniques explains how learning to use foundational techniques and recipes enables the creation of sweet and savory pastries and desserts. Large step-by-step photos showcase 35 techniques that are used to create 65 pastry and dessert recipes, many of which include variations or subcomponent recipes using simple ingredients. Ingredient amounts are listed in customary measurements, with weights denoted in parentheses. This book also showcases how combining artistic expression with mastered techniques can lead to a possible career as a pastry chef or even a savory chef. Part I: Foundational Pastry Techniques explains foundational pastry techniques and includes technique recipes that use foundational techniques. Mastering these time-honored techniques and recipes helps build the skills needed to make both sweet and savory pastries and desserts and to learn more complex recipes that can be used to create even more elegant pastries and desserts. Part II: Savory Pastry Basics explains the pastry techniques that are frequently used in savory applications. Both pastry cooks and savory staff alike can expand their repertoire of skills by learning to use the crêpe, tart, convenience pastry dough, and puff pastry recipes to create savory pastries that exceed guests’ expectations. Food costs can also be decreased by using these pastry techniques to combine creamy fillings and vegetables with various proteins to create hors d’oeuvres, starters, small plates, and entrée accompaniments. Part III: Plate Presentation showcases the importance of using artistic techniques to elevate the visual appeal of pastries and desserts both on the plate and on displays. Dessert sauces and chocolate can be used to create beautiful plated and garnished pastries and desserts that look as good as they taste and yield higher profits. These plate presentation techniques also form the foundation for learning more complex presentation skills which can take many years to master. Part IV: Classics & Signatures showcases classic pastries and desserts from France, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, and the United States. It also explains how to combine foundational techniques and recipes to create spectacular signature pastries and desserts that have gained critical acclaim. Classics have stood the test of time and are repeatedly served in many venues, whereas signatures are original creations that one day may become classics in their own right.

Pastry & Dessert Techniques also includes access to digital resources that reinforce and enhance learning. The digital Pastry & Dessert Techniques Learner Resources for this book can be accessed by either: • keying ATPeResources.com/QuickLinks into a web browser and entering the QuickLink™ code: 738210 • using a Quick Response (QR) reader app to scan the QR code on a mobile device

Note to Educators: An individual access code is given to each purchaser of the Pastry & Dessert Techniques Instructor Resources, available at atplearning.com.

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