1900-1909
The early 1900s can be described as a time of contradiction. We see a change of technology, the existence of motorcars and female independence and on the other hand we see romance blossom, and greed take over by the leisured classes. The Belle Époque, which in English is called “The Beautiful Era”, was a time of luxury for the wealthy upper class. The lifestyle of the upper class reflected truly on the fashion of this era especially in footwear. Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon, in her memoirs described the era perfectly; “ Society tottered through the last of the preWarm waved tiny lace handkerchiefs, and carried elaborate parasols until the War came with its sweeping changes”.
1900 Metropolitain museum
From 1900 1909, boots were the most fashionable amongst men and woman. They were worn mostly in the day for working and were often edged in fur to keep their feet warm from the cold winter weather. Wearing narrow shoes was very common. Men and woman often wore shoes that were one size smaller that had a pointed toe and a medium height heel. Evening shoes were more complex. The style of evening shoe for woman was a court
shoe with a small Louis heel. The heel was 2 or 3 inches high. They were often embellished with embroidery or metallic thread.
http://oldrags.tumblr.com/post/13104196286/boots-ca1900-13-poland-shoe-icons
Around the end of the decade, “Cuban” heels became popular. Evening boots were made with soft kid or satin with rows of beaded straps. The colors of the shoes were mostly neutral colors such as black and brown or metallic colors. The closure methods of shoes were laces or buttons. The materials used were leather or metal. Throughout this decade, there were many fashion designers that influenced and changed clothing and footwear. There was Paul Poiret and Pietro Yantorny who were very popular at the time. Their clients were high class and very wealthy people.
http://www.advertisingarchives.co.uk/ index.php? service=search&action=do_quick_se arch&language=en&q=1900+shoes
http://social.popsugar.com/HistoryFashion-1900---1910-1535251 http://www.centuryinshoes.com/deca des/1900/1900_02.html http://hillaryinheels.blogspot.ca/2011/ 07/shoe-timeline-part-3-19001910.html
1910-1919
https://www.pinterest.c om/pocketmuseum/19 10s-footwear/
Over the pass decade, the world changed and so did fashion. With the beginning of war came the change in clothing especially footwear. This decade was quite eventful. Events like the roots of Prohibition, The great Influenza epidemic and of course the Titanic changed society in every way. Orientalism, also, had a
major influence on fashion. Bright colors, bold prints and oriental embroidery were all signs of the Orientalism. Towards the end of the decade, Art deco started to peak through. All these styles contrasted the frou-frou style of the Belle Époque. Since the beginning of war, clothing became more realistic and practical rather than fashionable. With the shortening of skirts, shoes were exposed more and everyone was able to see what shoes you were wearing. Stockings also,
became more popular because of the shortening of the skirts. Boots were still worn for practical use for men and woman. They were usually buttoned or laced up and made of leather, suede and metal. The colors were typically dark colors such as brown or black. Since the dance style, Tango, became popular, heels are still fashionable and the women loved to wear them to go dancing.
http://oldrags.tumblr.co m/post/15970509061/s hoes-ca-1918-parislacma
Some had a crisscrossing straps or a gold buckle at the end. Corded silk and satin were the most used for heels during that time. Brighter colors were used for the heels because of the influence of orientalism. Sportswear was also a new fashion trend that begun and was incorporated in everyday styles. This was when the first running shoe was born. Keds were the first sneaker made with the rubber sole.
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Interviewing: Pietro Yantorny (1874-1936) Pietro Yantorny was the selfproclaimed “most expensive shoe maker in the world�. He made the most expensive shoes in that time period. He was more than just a shoemaker, he was a designer and artist. Questions: 1- What made you want to pursue a carreer in shoe designin g? I did not go to school when I was younger but
started shoe making. I started shoema king in Calabria , Italy and later opened my first shop in Paris. I could push the envelop e of shoema king to leave somethi ng to a museu m of the shoe that future generati ons can admire. 2- Where did you find inspirati on for your designs ?
I find inspirati on everywh ere I go. But its not only about making shoes. I am making art. I want my art to be in museu ms when I die. 3- What made you decide to put a sign outside your shop that said “The most expensi ve shoe designe r in the world”? I did it to attract wealthy clients and it definitel y was a
great idea. 4- Who is your most loyal custome r? My most loyal custome r was Rita de Acosta. She was a new york socialite and bought hundred s of pairs of shoes from me. She loved dramati c footwear . She loved vintage styles with a pointy toe.
http://www. metmuseum .org/toah/wo rks-ofart/C.I.53.76 .1a,b-12a,b
5- How long does it take you to make a pair of shoes? It is more than just shoema king to me. I take it very seriousl y and I want it to be perfect. Every detail counts. The longest it has ever taken me to make a
pair of shoes was 3 years. It seems long but as I said detail is everythi ng and you can’t rush art. 6- Would you have done anything different ly if you could? Never. Shoe designin g is somethi ng I was born to do. I love it. I love somethi ng doing somethi ng so creative that makes me have to think long
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and hard.
Art Deco Movement Beginni ng in the early 1920s, Art deco also known as style modern originat ed and develop ed into a huge style in Western Europe and the United States. It name cam from the exhibitio n of Internati onal Expositi on of Decorati ve Art and Modern Industry held in Paris,
which was where the style was first exhibite d. Art deco showed moderni sm turned into fashion. The style symboli zed wealth and sophisti cation
http://books.goo gle.ca/books? id=gv0_DQWfw GwC&printsec=f rontcover&dq=s hoes: +what+every+w oman+should+k now+about+sho
and created look eleganc e, which was so untraditi onal at that time. The style feature a lot of simple, clean geometr ic shapes or stylized forms. Some material s used in Art deco include manmade substan ces such as plastic and vitaglass and natural
substan ces such as jade, silver, ivory and chrome. Other arts that influenc es Art deco were cubism, futurism and vorticis m
http://books.goo gle.ca/books? id=gv0_DQWfw GwC&printsec=f rontcover&dq=s hoes: +what+every+w oman+should+k now+about+sho es&hl=en&sa=X &ei=_9RFU5LB FIWT2QXfhYCI Ag&ved=0CDoQ 6AEwAA#v=one page&q=shoes %3A%20what %20every %20woman %20should %20know %20about%20s
In footwea r, shoe designe rs were quick to
incorpor ate this new elegant style in their designs. Salvator e Ferraga mo was one of the first to be inspired by the Art deco style. He experim ented with many different types of shoes such as wedges, heels and platform s.
http://books.goo gle.ca/books? id=gv0_DQWfw GwC&printsec=f rontcover&dq=s hoes: +what+every+w oman+should+k now+about+sho es&hl=en&sa=X &ei=_9RFU5LB FIWT2QXfhYCI Ag&ved=0CDoQ 6AEwAA#v=one page&q=shoes
%3A%20what %20every %20woman %20should %20know %20about%20s
FASHION COLUMN:
BIBLIOGRAPH Y: • http://w ww.brita nnica.co m/EBch ecked/to pic/3650 5/ArtDeco •
http://w ww.rich east.org /htwm/a rtists/AC /artdeco .html
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n&sa=X &ei=_9 RFU5L BFIWT2 QXfhYC IAg&ved =0CDo Q6AEw AA#v=o nepage &q=sho es%3A %20wh at %20eve ry %20wo man %20sho uld %20kno w %20abo ut%20s http://so uthernth readsvin tage.wo rdpress. com/20 13/08/0 2/history -offashion-
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