ISSUE 3 | DECEMBER 2017
WANDERER EXPLORE THE WORLD WITH PEREGRINE AND TRAILFINDERS
Joanna Booth’s
Croatian Voyage One travel writer cruises along the dramatic Dalmatian coast
See inside for details of an exclusive offer
Dear Trailfinder, Looking for your next holiday? Perhaps we can inspire you to discover somewhere new, travel in a way you’ve never considered, or with people you’ve never met… When I founded Trailfinders in 1970, we were an overland touring company willing to take anyone with an open mind and adventurous spirit to farflung places, rarely touched by the western world. Of course, Trailfinders and the world itself has changed immeasurably in those 47 years, but the lust to strike out and explore is deeply ingrained in our nature, and our enthusiasm for showing you the world has never waned. It’s this passion for travel that makes Peregrine a perfect partner for the Trailfinders traveller. On a Peregrine tour you’ll see the world differently – not through a coach window or with a crowd of strangers, but intimately, authentically and memorably. Enjoy premium adventures and look forward to a truly cultural journey with hand-picked accommodation, small groups, local guides, interesting activities and a more considered pace. Adding Trailfinders’ awardwinning service and expertise into the equation makes for an unbeatable combination. Better still, book any Peregrine tour worldwide with Trailfinders before 31 January 2018 and enjoy an exclusive 20% discount using promo code 53291*. All that’s left to do is leaf through the following selection of articles and interviews, draw inspiration and let Trailfinders and Peregrine turn your vision into a memorable holiday. Wishing you the happiest of travels. Mike Gooley CBE
Chairman – Trailfinders * For full terms and conditions please go to peregrineadventures.com/en-gb/magazine-offers
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A Croatian Voyage
Talking Japanese with Tim Anderson
One travel writer cruises along the dramatic Dalmatian coast.
Plus, an exclusive recipe from his new cookbook, Japaneasy.
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Close-up: tracing the Great Silk Road in Uzbekistan
The road less travelled
Exploring a piece of history in photographs.
Little-known destinations to think about for 2018.
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Tailors, tea and the time of our lives: tales from a fortnight in Sri Lanka
Travel Insider: Ashleigh Fitt
A detailed account of the beautiful teardrop island.
A Trailfinder’s Borneo experience with Peregrine.
24 Journeys through a magical kingdom Discovering Bhutan’s unmistakable beauty.
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Photo by: Ben McNamara
A Croatian Voyage By Joanna Booth
Well, this is a first. Usually, the crew do everything in their power to stop you jumping overboard. But this isn’t your average cruise. Our Peregrine guides, Milan and Dinko, aren’t encouraging us to go man overboard off a 10-storey floating tower block, moored in the gridlocked waters of a crowded port.
And one by one, we do – diving headfirst, jumping with arms outstretched, or slipping gently down the steps at the back of the swimming deck. With not a cloud in the sky, the light penetrates through the cool, crystalline water right down to the sea floor. We splash lazily, spotting fish, the sun warm on our faces. We seem to have stumbled into heaven on earth, somewhere in the middle of the Adriatic.
They’ve anchored our small but elegant ship in an almost deserted bay off the Croatian island of Vis. Forested slopes, unmarked by human habitation, rise on three sides. But for the moment, all eyes are focused on the water. Clear as gin and just as tempting, we don’t need the siren call of a mermaid to take the plunge.
Our seven-night trip, cruising gently down the Dalmatian coast from Split to Dubrovnik, is a heady 5
mix of hidden gems like our swimming spot and bigticket highlights. Days have an easy pace, with relaxed sightseeing combined with wild swimming, lazy sailing and long lunches.
the vividly coloured waterfalls before most of the other tourists arrive. On the island of Hvar, we visit the pretty – but busy – town, taking time out to eat ice cream and climb up to the fortress on the hill. But we also head inland to visit an organic lavender farm, where the only other traffic on the road is a donkey and the silence is broken solely by bees buzzing around the flowers.
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Visiting with our local guide, Milan, gives us the chance to see beneath the immediate beauty of its honey-coloured stones.
In Split, we wander the narrow, cobbled streets in the early evening, when many of the day-trippers have already headed home. Visiting with our local guide, Milan, gives us the chance to see beneath the immediate beauty of its honey-coloured stones. We hear not only about its ancient history, as a Roman retirement home for the Emperor Diocletian, but also its recent past. We see where Milan played five-a-side football inside the palace gatehouse with his schoolmates and hear his memories of its time as a theatre of war, during the Balkan conflict.
I’m amazed how quickly I adjust to the pace of life on board. My frazzled, city-smogged brain usually takes a day or two to decompress, but the motion of the boat – and the feeling that while I’m doing nothing, I’m getting somewhere – rocks me into relaxation. With just 16 cabins, the Royal Eleganza never feels crowded, despite its boutique size. There’s always a spot on a sunlounger, or a shady sofa to retire to, while you pretend to read a book and stare idly at the horizon. Our inattention pays off, when one morning we spot a pod of dolphins tracking our wake, curving joyfully through the waves.
It’s when we head over the border into Bosnia that the realities of war are most evident. The city of Mostar, under siege for large periods, was badly damaged as the predominantly Christian west clashed with the Muslim east. But rebuilding has been extensive, with the iconic Stari Most bridge the poster child of this reconciliation. The perfect curve of the span arches 24m above the water, with daredevil locals sometimes diving
The dolphins aren’t the only ones who have noticed how much Croatia resembles paradise, but our itinerary keeps us away from the worst of the tourist crowds. We head to the Krka National Park early in the morning, swimming in the natural pools and walking alongside 6
Photo by: Ben McNamara Photo by: Ben McNamara
Photo by: Ben McNamara
from the top. It’s said to take three seconds to splash into the river, and I’m happy to take their word for it.
When our ship moors up in the small town of Opuzen, we realise how far we’ve strayed from the well-trodden tourist trail. A welcoming committee is there to meet us, armed with accordions and yet more rakia. Kids stop their bicycles to stare, and a group of old ladies settles on a nearby bench to keep watch. Tourists are a novelty here.
It’s hard to reconcile the military action of the past with the peaceful Croatia we find today. On the Pelješac peninsula, we visit a family-run winery brought painstakingly back-to-life by the owners after falling into disrepair during the communist period. Under a vinedraped pergola, we gaze out over the tranquil landscape, sipping wines produced in batches too small for export. My favourite – typically – is the most expensive. The almost-purple dingač is made from grapes grown on only the steepest slopes with the very highest sun exposure, making them worth seven times as much as their closest varieties.
It feels a world away from Split and Dubrovnik, where vast cruise liners funnel thousands of passengers a day into pretty, old towns that seem smaller than their floating bulks. I wouldn’t miss those highlights for the world – their beauty and their fascination are undimmed by the odd crowd – but when I look back on this trip, my fondest memory is of Opuzen. Following the sound of music to the town square, we sit with locals in a bar and listen to a band. Back at the ship, a group of kids has gathered, keen to use the swim deck as a diving board into the river, so we join them, giggling and splashing like children ourselves. This water, colder and darker than the Adriatic, may not be the stuff the guidebooks rave about, but I wouldn’t change a thing about it. •
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Kids stop their bicycles to stare, and a group of old ladies settles on a nearby bench to keep watch. Tourists are a novelty here. Unlike the larger cruise ships, whose captains have to stick to deeper channels, Royal Eleganza can steer into shallower waters. This doesn’t only mean quiet bays for swimming – we even take a turn away from the ocean and head up river. The Neretva River forms a large delta, and we head into the reed-lined channels in small wooden boats. There’s not a soul in sight as, armed with snacks and shots of rakia, the local firewater, we explore the tranquil waterways.
Discover a new style of travel with Peregrine’s Adventure Cruises, from £1,080pp. Call Trailfinders today on 020 7408 9021 and enjoy 20% off when you book before 31 January 2018.
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Talking Japanese with Tim Anderson American chef and ramen enthusiast, Tim Anderson, became MasterChef’s youngest winner back in 2011. Now living in Lewisham with his wife and their cat, Baloo, he’s been keeping himself very busy. Firstly, launching his cookbook, Nanban, and then opening his much-loved restaurant of the same name. We chatted to him about his passion for all things Japanese, why food is always a big part of any trip he takes, and quizzed him on his favourite recipe from his newly released book, Japaneasy.
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What sparked your interest in Japanese cuisine?
If you had to pick a favourite recipe from your new book, Japaneasy, which would it be and why?
I was a nerd as a teenager (I’m a nerd now too, but I was especially nerdy back then) and I was into all sorts of Japanese things – video games, anime, J-pop, stuff like that. I was also into cooking shows, and when I was about 14 I started watching a TV competition called Iron Chef, which combined both interests. It was incredible and served as a very exciting introduction to the world of Japanese food. I was immediately hooked.
I really like gyudon, the beef and onion sweet soy rice bowl. It’s a wonderfully simple, extremely comforting and moreish recipe. It’s always surprised me that you don’t find it on more Japanese restaurant menus because it is such a crowd pleaser. (Turn the page to discover Tim’s Gyudon recipe.)
Do you have any top tips for tracking down the best local food when you travel?
Which are your favourite areas of Japan? Kumamoto and Kagoshima are amazing – particularly for their hot springs, but also for their cities and excellent food and booze. I’m also a big fan of Sapporo, one of Japan’s most modern cities with a surprising mix of foods from different cultures, it incorporates influences from the indigenous Ainu as well as American and European agriculturalists.
Food is always a big part of our travels. I start with specific foods I want to try and then try to find the best or most convenient places to get them. For example, in Honolulu there’s a road called Kapahulu Avenue where you can get excellent poke from Ono Seafood, loco moco from Rainbow Drive-In and malasadas from Leonard’s. I don’t know if these are the best places in Hawaii for these dishes, but to me they were fantastic and they’re all within a mile of each other.
You lived in Japan for a while, what was that like? I lived in Kitakyushu, a city in South Japan and loved it. It’s rougher than Tokyo – lots of yakuza gangsters – but it also has fantastic food and nightlife. It’s often overshadowed by its slightly larger neighbour, Fukuoka, but it’s still a great city and a perfect gateway to the rest of Kyushu because so many trains stop there.
Does having a local to show you round make a difference? Yes, and especially where the language barrier is an issue. When I was in Hong Kong I stayed with a friend of mine who grew up there, and she took me everywhere. I honestly had no idea where I was going and couldn’t even name a single restaurant or street stall we went to, but everything was delicious. Similarly, in Shanghai, I went to a little brewpub called Jackie’s, and it turned out that Jackie himself was behind the bar and spoke excellent English. He told us where to eat and wrote down a food order on a piece of paper to give the staff there. It was brilliant, as it would have been extremely difficult to find that restaurant, much less order food there without his help.
How is the relationship with food in Japan different to the UK? There’s an emphasis on quality in Japan, even for the cheapest, most casual kinds of food. A lot of fuss is made over the quality of high-end Japanese food like kaiseki or sushi, but that level of cookery is excellent no matter what country you’re in. To me, what sets Japan apart is that you can get really good food at inexpensive noodle shops, dive bars, or even convenience stores. I think this is partially a cultural difference, but it’s also pure capitalism – there are a lot of options for eating out, so competition is fierce.
If you were going to take a group tour, where would you go? My wife and I have always wanted to go to Peru, and for places like that where many of the big must-see sites like Machu Picchu are difficult to get to on your own, I think a group tour is a good option. My first trip to Japan was on a group tour, which was good, because at that point I couldn’t speak Japanese; it allowed us to see most of Japan’s “greatest hits” without any stress, but still gave us enough free time so that we could do a lot of our own exploring.
What’s was the inspiration behind your restaurant, Nanban? I felt there was a gap in the London market for regional Japanese food, so I wanted to showcase dishes specifically from Kyushu and Okinawa. That’s mainly what I served at the Nanban pop-ups, and that’s also what the Nanban cookbook is all about. But, when we found a site in Brixton I decided to incorporate ingredients and influences from Brixton Market too, which is a fascinating and inspiring place. The restaurant itself is a kind of Japanese-Brixton fusion, with dishes like curry goat ramen and daily changing tempura using whatever market produce looks good that day.
Enjoy a taste of Japan on a premium Peregrine tour, from £3,645pp. Call Trailfinders on 020 7408 9021 to find out more and save 20% if you book by 31 January 2018.
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Gyudon Beef, Onion And Sweet Soy Rice Bowl Serves 4 Gyudon – a humble bowl of beef on rice – is kind of like the Japanese equivalent of a burger. It’s fine for lunch, decent for dinner, but where it really shines is well into a night of heavy drinking. Sweet and beefy and savoury and satisfying (and almost impossibly cheap in Japan), it’s something I could eat for just about every meal, just about every day. 400 g (14 oz) skirt/hanger/flank steak
METHOD
2 tablespoons oil
Place the beef in the freezer for about 30 minutes to firm up, then slice it against the grain into very thin strips.
4 onions, thinly sliced
Heat the oil in a large frying pan (skillet) and add the onions. Cook over a medium heat until they are soft and brown, then add the beef and ginger. Let the beef brown a bit, then add the sweet soy sauce and dashi and let it reduce slightly, to the consistency of a thin syrup. Place the rice in deep bowls and spoon over the beef and onions along with the sauce, then garnish with the pickled ginger and sesame seeds. If this doesn’t make you feel all warm and wonderful inside, you may be some kind of robot.
2 cm (¾ in) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely julienned 200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) Sweet Soy Sauce (recipe below) 100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) dashi 4 large portions of cooked rice (350–400 g/12–14 oz/ 1¾–2 cups uncooked) 40–50 g (1½–2 oz) red pickled ginger toasted sesame seeds, to garnish
Sweet Soy Sauce Makes about 350 ml (12 fl oz/scant 1½ cups) Variations of this recipe are common in all kinds of Japanese dishes, most commonly teriyaki and kabayaki – the former used for pretty much everything, and the latter used for grilled oily fish, especially eel. Whatever you call it, there’s a reason it’s so common: it’s delicious. Sweet, salty and umami, it’s just a nice, trashy, cheap thrill for human taste buds everywhere. Try it on: chicken, pork, beef, duck, turkey, salmon, trout, mackerel, tuna, sea bass, cod, swordfish, scallops, tofu, mushrooms, courgettes (zucchini), squash, eggs, or my absolute favourite: roasted carrots. Teriyaki carrots are stupid good! 200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) soy sauce
METHOD
200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) mirin
Combine all the ingredients except the cornflour slurry in a saucepan, and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the consistency of a thin syrup – it should reduce by about a quarter. Remove the garlic and the ginger, if using, then whisk in the cornflour slurry and boil briefly until nice and thick. Leave to cool, and keep in an airtight container in the fridge indefinitely.
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) sake, water or dashi (this is mainly to take the edge off the soy sauce) 100 g (3½ oz/½ cup) dark brown sugar 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled and bashed (optional) 4 cm (1½ in) piece of fresh ginger, thinly sliced – don’t bother peeling it (optional) 2–3 teaspoons cornflour (cornstarch), mixed to a slurry with 1 tablespoon cold water 10
11 Extracted from Japaneasy: Classic & Modern Japanese Recipes to Cook at Home by Tim Anderson (Hardie Grant, £20) photography Š Laura Edwards
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Close-up: tracing the Great Silk Road in Uzbekistan
Formally established by China’s Han Dynasty thousands of years ago, the Great Silk Road was so much more than a solitary trade route. Joining the ancient city of Chang’an (now Xi’an) in the east with the warm coasts of the Mediterranean in the west; traders exchanged aromatic spices, painted porcelain and soft woven silks, economies blossomed, and civilisations flourished. Many will be familiar with the well-known Chinese stretch of the Great Silk Road, but what about uncovering its lesser-visited Central Asian side? Exploring the beautiful medieval cities, stunning architecture and colourful history of Uzbekistan will give you a window into different area of this bygone world.
Unearth the Silk Road on Peregrine’s Uzbekistan & Turkmenistan Discoverer tour, from £3,415pp. Call Trailfinders and book today on 020 7408 9021 to enjoy 20% off (offer ends 31 January 2018).
Follow in the footsteps of century old travellers, as we take a photographic journey down the Great Silk Road in Uzbekistan…
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Photo by: Andrew Dwyer
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Photo by: Andrew Dwyer
Photo by: Wikipedia-commons_4696a
Photo by: Becky Last
Photo by: Becky Last
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Photo by: Becky Last
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1. Looking up at the breath-taking Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis, formed of eleven elaborate, blue-tiled tombs. Built in honour of the Alive King between the 14th and 15th Centuries. 2. Local men and women in their gold-laced robes sit on the steps to the Bukhara mosque. 3. In a dimly-lit workshop, a local potter moulds traditional Gijduvan ceramics by hand. 4. A local teenager smiles broadly. 5. The intricate, honeycomb-like detailing that fills the arches of the Samarkand mosque. 6. A young Uzbek boy takes in views of the town below, from a window high in the Bukhara mosque. 7. Bukhara souvenir stalls selling army hats, relics of the Soviet Union.
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The road less travelled Here at Peregrine, we’re all about experiencing new places. That’s why in 2018, we’re whisking you away to lesser-known destinations alongside old favourites. You may, or may not know, that the Peregrine way of travelling is all about minimising the impact of over tourism. We believe one of the best and most exciting ways of doing this is by opening our travellers’ eyes to countries, cities, towns and even villages that may have never crossed their minds. With that said, we’ve pulled together a list of lesser visited but no less incredible places you might consider heading to on your next trip.
Exploring what the world has to offer is as much about taking in iconic landmarks, such as the awe-inspiring Taj Mahal and the beguiling temples of Angkor Wat, as it is about uncovering hidden gems. Think early Mayan ruins tucked away in the jungles of Belize, the religious melting pot of Jerusalem, and the desert wilderness that is Jordan’s Wadi Rum – to name but a few. Now, you can’t discover everything there is to know about a country’s culture and history by avoiding tourist hotspots and sticking solely to little-known locations. However, it’s an undisputed fact that venturing off the beaten track helps you get under the skin of somewhere, and find out what makes it and its people tick.
Explore somewhere different on one of Peregrine’s newest trips, from £795pp. Plus, save 20% when you call and book with Trailfinders on 020 7408 9021 before 31 January 2018.
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Sighisoara, Romania
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Suchitoto, El Salvador
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What springs to mind when you think of Romania? Count Dracula must be up there, and Sighisoara just so happens to be the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler, the inspiration behind Bram Stoker’s famous fictional character. This 16th Century town is also known for being one of Europe’s best preserved and most beautiful medieval spots. Its sweet cobbled streets, brightly coloured buildings and 500-year-old clock tower, saw it receive UNESCO World Heritage status back in 1999.
By visiting Suchitoto, the cultural capital of El Salvador, you’ll feel as though you’re journeying back in time. Be sure to delve into the country’s rich yet dark history, including details of Suchitoto’s total abandonment during the civil war. The Los Tercios waterfalls are definitely worth a trip, along with taking a lesson in cigar-rolling and treating yourself to a pupusa or two (a very traditional Salvadoran dish).
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Westfjords, Iceland
Journeying to the Westfjords will allow to you unearth a completely different side to Iceland. This section of unspoiled, rugged coastline is home to puffins, nesting birds and even the occasional whale. Prepare to be amazed by its spectacular landscapes too; the Westfjords boast everything from towering volcanic peaks to red-sand beaches. Plus, it’s the perfect place to hear tales of the famous Vikings who sailed there!
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Amorgos, Greece
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Fogo, Cape Verde
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A lot of us are familiar with picture-perfect Santorini and the vibrant nightlife of Mykonos, but these are just two of the Greek islands that make up the Cyclades. Less well-known Amorgos, is a brilliantly kept secret! Visit the Monastery of Hozoviotissa; built into a cliff face it offers breath-taking views of the deep blue Aegean Sea. If after that you still haven’t had your fill of the Aegean Sea, why not take a dip in its crystal-clear waters at unspoiled Aegiali Beach?
Aptly named Fogo, meaning fire, is situated in the south-west of Cape Verde’s diverse archipelago and is famed for its dramatic volcanic scenery. Enjoy tackling a steady climb to the crater’s edge of Pico de Fogo, almost 3,000 metres above sea level, taking in the lava covered landscape as you go. Aside from the volcano, there are an abundance of other reasons to make the trip: the colourful town of Cova Figueira, the black sand coastline, deliciously locally-grown coffee and so much more. 17
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Tailors, tea and the time of our lives: tales from a fortnight in Sri Lanka By Alex Bescoby
I’m stood looking out over the gentle chaos of the back-streets of Kandy, former royal capital of one of Sri Lanka’s ancient kingdoms, nestled in the green bowl of the island’s central hills. My daze is only broken by a polite cough from the tailor, who is trying to measure my inside leg within the bounds of common decency. It’s not often I visit a proper tailor, but given the long textile tradition in Sri Lanka and superb value for money, I couldn’t resist. Following an afternoon in the soothing bustle of the Temple of the Tooth – holiest site for Sri Lanka’s largely Buddhist population – I’m in need of a late-notice wedding outfit. Luckily the language barrier is easily defeated by pointing to chiselled men in a battered early-noughties style magazine, produced from a dusty corner.
After another healthy dose of charades, the tailor reassures me it’ll be ready in just forty-eight hours. He does so with an amused helpfulness that I’ve come to expect from everybody I’ve met during our twoweek journey around this teardrop island. Ever since first arriving in the capital city, Colombo, Sri Lanka kept surpassing expectations on how easy everything would be. 19
For a man who spends much of the year in South-East Asia, Sri Lanka’s basic functionality was a relief. Wellmaintained expressways criss-cross between the major tourist hotspots, and we were even able to beckon an Uber in Colombo! As a Brit with a keen interest in history, Sri Lanka held a particular fascination for me, and it didn’t disappoint. The story of Britain and Sri Lanka – known as Ceylon prior to 1972 – dates back to the late 18th Century. The island was part of the British Empire for over 130 years, but the Brits hadn’t even arrived first. Over three centuries of Portuguese and then Dutch presence has left an intriguing historical and cultural blend, which can be felt across the island.
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Ever since first arriving in the capital city, Colombo, Sri Lanka kept surpassing expectations on how easy everything would be. We spend a day drifting through Colombo’s quaint museums, coffee shops and restaurants. The capital caters for high-end rooftop bar lovers, where you can watch the sun set over the Laccadive Sea, and those hunting for Sri Lanka’s delicious local hoppers – artwork in egg form – for just a few pennies. Although we knew Colombo had so much more to offer, the island beckoned us onwards. Our first stop was the town of Galle, on the island’s southern coast. It’s here the island’s mix of European and South-Asian architectural influences really comes into its own. We’ve timed our visit with accidental perfection. It’s test match day in a cricket-obsessed nation, and Sri Lanka is hosting their great nemesis, India. Under the watchful eye of Galle Fort – built by the Portuguese, expanded by the Dutch and British, and now a UNESCO World Heritage site – the two old sporting enemies battle it out; punctuated at important moments by a blast of trumpets, flag waving and hysterical cheering.
toes and the earth’s southern pole are thousands of miles of Indian Ocean.
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Sri Lanka is the ideal destination for time-poor holiday-makers.
As tea-break looms, we slip into Galle’s beautifully maintained streets enclosed by the old Dutch walls. Here we glimpse boutique hotels and cosy cafes, pick up local passion-fruit jam, and wish we could stay for longer. But, our next destination is a little further east – close to the coastal town of Tangalle.
Although reluctant to leave the idyllic south coast, we knew that the island’s most famous treasures await. Again, a Toyota hybrid appears to whisk us north to the island’s heartland. On the way, we pass through teacountry – haphazard plantations dotting the landscape as far as the eye can see. We make a short stop in Ella, where the choice of locally grown varieties on sale is almost overwhelming.
We stay in a hotel carved out of the green jungle, buttressing the island’s white sand beaches. We wander to a nearby beach, alone except for a shack serving phenomenal seafood at great prices. After a fresh crab dinner, with a bottle of Sri Lanka’s national Lion Beer between us, we watch the tide come in and the sun go down. Knowing all that stands between our sea-lapped
Luggage much heavier than before, we press on to the formidable rock-fortress of Sigiriya. Here, in the 5th Century AD, the king decided this geological curiosity protruding from the plains would be his new capital. 20
Photo by: Alex Bescoby
He decorated it with beautiful frescoes and a gargantuan rock-carved lion – sadly only the feet of the latter remain today, but the resident troop of monkeys offer an excellent distraction.
hodgepodge of temples and ancient palaces. The gentle hubbub of the evening puja is beginning, and multicoloured lights flicker on across the town as the sun sets behind the hills.
After our climb we sit in Sigiriya’s shadow, tucking into a home-cooked meal served on freshly-cut banana leaves. Looking up at the rock, I can’t help but feel the weight of history here. The more time I spend in Sri Lanka, the easier I find it to look beyond the European presence on this island, into a culture much older, richer and infinitely more intriguing.
It’s the perfect end to our stay, and just one example of many proving that Sri Lanka is the ideal destination for time-poor holiday-makers, who can’t choose between the great hotels, incredible food and well-earned pampering, and a feast of museums, temples and unique cultural experiences. Here, wrapped up in Sri Lanka’s unbeatable hospitality, you can at last have it all. •
Finally, we find ourselves in the island’s cultural heart of Kandy. Although we’ve chosen to spoil ourselves for the last two nights in a luxury hotel in the hills north of Kandy, we spend our final evening circling the town’s man-made lake, the Sea of Milk.
Create your own Sri Lankan memories with Peregrine, from £2,150pp. Call Trailfinders today on 020 7408 9021 and enjoy 20% off bookings made before 31 January 2018.
Newly-collected wedding suit in hand, we stop to rest at the lake’s far end looking back to at Kandy’s 21
Travel insider: Ashleigh Fitt
Tell us about the highlights of your trip. Staying at a jungle lodge on the banks of the Kinabatangan River was a proper back-to-nature experience. Cruising up and down the river in search of exotic local creatures was so much fun. But, nothing will top spotting orangutans in the wild! We were really lucky to see them actually, as sightings are pretty rare.
Trailfinders travel consultant, Ashleigh Fitt, recently returned from our Untamed Borneo trip and loved it. We spoke to her about what encouraged her choice of destination, her trip highlights and why she’d recommend a Peregrine tour to friends.
You must have spotted loads of other amazing wildlife. Which animals were you most excited to see? Apart from the orangutans, it was great to see the proboscis or long-nosed monkeys who have a very unusual look to them; they were completely fascinating to watch. We managed to stumble across some pygmy elephant tracks too, but to my disappointment, we weren’t able to locate the elephants themselves.
You’ve just come back from travelling Borneo with us. What was it about the place that made you want to go there?
Is there anything you’d tell someone visiting Borneo for the first time, that you’d like to have known?
In short, the jungle and the wildlife. Despite being the third largest island on the planet, Borneo has big areas of dense tropical rainforest that largely remain a mystery. In the 21st Century it’s so rare to find somewhere relatively untouched and that really called out to me.
As I found out, Kota Kinabalu is a surprisingly cool city. Before going on this trip I’d typically have treated it as a gateway to the rest of Borneo. But, having spent some time there I’d definitely recommend devoting a day or
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two extra to explore its markets, museums and check out the views from the Signal Hill Observatory.
well. Waking up to astonishing views of Mount Kinabalu out your hotel window or sipping cocktails on the jetty of Manukan Island, were lovely added extras.
Was this your first time travelling in a small group? Are there any other Peregrine trips you’ve got your eye on?
No, I’ve been on small group tours previously and that’s part of the reason I chose this trip. It’s always interesting to meet like-minded people from all over the world, and the sense of camaraderie that develops within the group really adds to the experience.
Your 13-day Ancient Persia in Depth looks amazing! Iran is just re-emerging on the tourist trail and it would be brilliant to beat the crowds that’ll begin swarming to its architectural wonders, and to experience a way of life largely unaffected by tourism. •
Do you feel having a local leader to show you round made a difference to your trip?
Uncover Borneo on a premium Peregrine tour, from £1,830pp. Call Trailfinders on 020 7408 9021 and save 20% when you book before 31 January 2018.
Absolutely, our tour leader was incredible. As well as being seriously passionate and knowledgeable about Borneo, he taught us lots of interesting things about what life was like on the island, which would have remained a mystery to the independent traveller. Plus, he was really great fun too!
Would you recommend one of our tours to a friend and why? Definitely! Aside from experiencing everything Borneo had to offer, the accommodation was very comfortable, and it was nice to have a few “treats” along the way as
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Journeys through a magical kingdom By Jane Dunford
Photo by: Alison Armstrong
It’s a clear, crisp spring morning in the Bhutanese capital Thimphu and a sense of excitement hangs in the air. Hundreds of men, women and children dressed in traditional costume – the wide sleeved gho tunic for men, the colourful anklelength kira dress for women – scurry towards Changlimithang Stadium. Today is much-loved King Wangchuck’s birthday and the celebrations are about to begin. The programme’s crammed with everything from strong-man races and archery competitions, to age-old masked dances telling tales of the gods. On the banks of Wang Chhu River and circled by mountains, Thimphu is a serene, sleepy place, watched over by a 51-metre high gilded Buddha high on a hilltop to the east. There are no traffic lights – white-
gloved policemen direct cars by hand – and the old centre, with its wooden-shuttered buildings and pretty clock tower square, has a distinctly medieval feel. It’s the perfect introduction to this mysterious, sacred Himalayan kingdom.
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A tiny land of forested valleys and soaring mountains, hemmed in by India and China, Bhutan is one of the most intriguing countries on earth. A tiny land of forested valleys and soaring mountains, hemmed in by India and China, Bhutan is one of the most intriguing countries on earth. Isolated from the world for years, its Buddhist culture and traditions remain largely intact. Monasteries, convents and fortresses dot the landscape and everywhere prayer flags flutter in the breeze. Preserving the culture and the environment are top priority: the country famously measures gross national happiness, not GDP, plastic bags are banned and much of the land is protected. Tourism – only permitted since 1974 – is tightly controlled, with a minimum daily spend rule and tours must be booked in advance to get a visa. There’s no backpacking scene and most visitors come on a group trip. 24
bar. It’s busy on a Friday night with a young crowd and a local live rock band – this is a youthful nation, over 50% of the population is under 25. In the age of the internet, the ways of the West are filtering in, but change seems to be tempered with a sense of pride and determination to protect their own culture. The next day we drive north-east to Punakha, climbing through forests to the 3,000-metre Dochula Pass, where 108 stupas commemorate soldiers killed fighting Indian insurgents in 2003. Cloudless blue skies crown layer upon layer of soaring snow-topped mountains and we spy Gangkhar Puensum, the highest peak in the country at 7,570 metres. The road descends into a fertile valley, passing stalls selling apples and dried yak’s cheese and a monk repeatedly prostrating on his journey between temples.
The first views of the pristine landscape come on the flight from Delhi into Paro, which skims thrillingly close to the mountains passing nine of the world’s 14 highest peaks, including Everest (unsurprisingly, Bhutan is one of the best trekking destinations around). A single road follows the Pachu River to the capital, snaking past villages and bright paddy fields.
Punakha Dzong, the 17th Century, red-roofed fortress and monastery at the confluence of Pho Chhu (mother) and Mo Chhu (father) rivers is the town’s key draw. A vast complex of courtyards and intricately painted temples, reached by bridge over the water, it’s perhaps the most beautiful in the country, particularly when the jacaranda trees flower lilac in spring. It’s here that coronations, royal weddings and festivals take place throughout the year.
Thimphu itself is compact and easy to explore on foot. We check out the memorial chorten to the late king, wander the weekend farmers’ market, see artists at work in their studios, and tuck into ema datshi, or chilli cheese, the national dish in a local restaurant. After dark everyone heads to Mojo Park, the town’s main music 25
You’d be hard pushed to visit Bhutan without stumbling across a celebration – the calendar is packed with them. This is a land where legend, myth and religion merge – tales of reincarnated rulers, saints and demons abound. You’ll soon hear about the Divine Madman a 15th Century saint, womaniser and drinker. Commemorated with giant phalluses painted on houses and said to help fertility (Chimi Lhakahy, a monastery a pretty walk outside of town, was built in his honour).
on the mountainside, and a place of spiritual retreat since the 9th Century. Today it’s home to 45 shavenheaded nuns who welcome us with shy smiles and cups of hot butter tea. The beauty and sense of the sacred get under your skin in Bhutan – and perhaps nowhere more so than at Taktsang Monastery or Tiger’s Nest, where we head on our last day. Clinging to a steep cliff 900 metres above Paro valley, it’s a spectacular feat of engineering – and one of the most recognisable sites in Bhutan.
From Punakah we head back west to the remote and magical Haa Valley – the drive might be long but with scenery this mesmerising it never drags. Bordering Tibet, the region only opened to tourists in 2002, and it feels like we’re stepping yet further back in time as we settle into an ancient farmhouse, now a small hotel, for the night.
According to legend, Indian guru Padmasambhava flew here from Tibet on the back of a tigress to subdue demons and it remains one of the most revered places in the country. A fire destroyed parts of it in 1998, but the rebuilding by local craftsmen, ordered by the king, is so meticulous it’s impossible to tell.
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You’d be hard pushed to visit Bhutan without stumbling across a celebration – the calendar is packed with them.
We trek through ancient pine forests beneath colourful prayer flags, to the café about half-way up. The views from here are staggering enough but we push on further along the cliff-carved path to the monastery itself – still home to a handful of monks despite the daily tourist visits. Combining the sacred, the mythical and some of the most spectacular mountain scenery on earth, it’s a fitting grand finale to a truly unforgettable trip. •
There are beautiful walks from here through larch and pine forest, past tiny villages scattered on a rural landscape that’s changed little over the centuries. Of course, there are more temples to explore in the valley, the incredible mountain panorama a permanent backdrop wherever you head. It’s not far to 4,000 metrehigh Cheli La Pass, a bewitching spot for sweeping Himalayan views. Thousands of prayer flags dance in the gusting wind, making their own peculiar music.
Experience the mysterious mountain kingdom of Bhutan with Peregrine, from £3,375pp. Call Trailfinders on 020 7408 9021 and enjoy 20% off bookings made before 31 January 2018.
We venture on foot through thick woodland to Kila Gompa, one of the oldest convents in the kingdom, high 26
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The team who brought you this magazine: Editor: Olivia Bohn Designer: Amalie Rosendahl Contributors: Alex Bescoby, Ashleigh Fitt, Ben McNamara, Jane Dunford, Joanna Booth, Tim Anderson, Olivia Bohn With special thanks to: Mike Gooley CBE, Nikki Davies, Adam Mitchell, Adam Waldock, Jo Cantello, Holly Arnold, Michael Edwards, Gillian Monahan, Tom Smith
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