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Explore Oahu’s North Shore

COUPons INSIDE Free // winter 2012-2013

Safety i Surf i Snorkel i Scuba i Parasail i JetPacK i Screamer

Eddie Aikau

Hawaii’s own John John Florence

winner of the 2011 Vans World Cup of Surfing and Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. Hanua St., Kapolei, HI  91-270 Located in Campbell Industrial Park

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Winter 2012–2013



6 Eddie Aikau 18 Oahu's North Shore 38 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing 60 SURFING 66 SUP 74 SNORKEL & SCUBA


84 PARASAIL 86 SCreamer Aloha Surf Guide LLC PO Box 89512 Honolulu, Hawaii 96830 808-223-0482

Contributors: Tiffany Below, Sean Davey, Rex Dubiel, Paul Forney, Taryn Wong Fowler, Moses George, Jim Russi, Manini Dive Company, Ocean Legends, . ©2012 Aloha Surf Guide is published quarterly, 40,000 copies per issue. Copyright 2012 Aloha Surf Guide LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine shall be printed and/ or altered without written permission by the Publisher. ASG will not be responsible for editorial entries. Contact us first. We do not endorse any of the businesses in this magazine.

This guide is for recreational use only to introduce the reader to ocean activities in Hawaii. If you plan to get in the water, work with reputable, licensed and insured professionals - and always talk to the lifeguards. cover photos: eddie: jeff divines. john john: asp-kirstin

WANT TO GROW YOUR BUSINESS? Call Matt Eagle to advertise 808-223-0482.

88 Ocean Safety




n behalf of the people of the State of Hawai‘i, I send my warmest personal greeting of aloha to the readers of Aloha Surf Guide. As the birthplace of the surfing, Hawai‘i is truly the mecca of the surfing world. From the smooth faces of Waikiki – where the figure of Duke Kahanamoku continues to greet island visitors – to the hollow barrels of the Banzai Pipeline, our Hawaiian waters continue to charm surfers from all over the world. Indeed, surfing has been a tradition in Hawai‘i since before Western contact and remains an integral part of our local culture. In 1998, the Hawai‘i State Legislature adopted Act 174, which established surfing as the official sport of the Aloha State. Today, surfing exists in many forms, including bodysurfing, boogie boarding, windsurfing, kite surfing, and stand-up paddle boarding. With so many ways to play in our island waters and with some of the best surfing breaks in the world, which cater to beginners, experts, and everyone in between, surfing is a sport accessible to all. Enjoy this guide as your introduction to this wonderful Hawaiian pastime. Please remember that ocean and water safety are top concerns in the islands. Both lifeguards and experienced surfers alike recommend that you work with a professional instructor if you are surfing for the first time. Doing so will reduce the risk of injury and increase your enjoyment considerably. I hope you enjoy our warm, Hawaiian waters and create lasting memories of our beautiful islands. E Malama I Ke Kai (take care of the ocean)!



With warmest regards, Ÿ 808 591 9283 Ÿ 1160 Waimanu Street, Honolulu Neil Abercrombie · Governor, State of Hawai‘i





Eddie Aikau Edward Ryon Makuahanai Aikau was born on May 4, 1946, in Kahalui, Maui. The third of six siblings, Eddie grew up close to his brothers and sisters. When he was eleven years old, he took up board riding and learned to surf in the shore break at Kahalui Harbor.

PHOTO: Jeff Divine

In 1971 Eddie competed in the Smirnoff Sunset Surfing Contest. Eddie took third place at this event.

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for this extraordinary surfer and put him in the tower at Waimea Bay. Eddie made daring rescues in raging surf and saved many lives. (There was never a loss of life while Eddie was on duty.) One of the benefits of being a lifeguard is being able to go out in the ocean during breaks and lunch, so Eddie continued to surf when the waves permitted. He became more skillful and daring, always challenging the moving mountains of water, and winning. Taking off on 30-foot waves, Eddie screamed down the faces with a big smile looking as fearless as could be. His prowess enabled him to win the Duke

Kahanamoku International Surfing Championship in 1977. He was honored by his fellow lifeguards in 1971 and named “Lifeguard of the Year”. Eddie was loved by those who knew him. As Barry Kaniapuni, another big wave rider and surfboard shaper stated, “Eddie was a throw back with the old ‘Hawaiian kine’ attitude.” He was the kind of fellow who would give you the shirt off his back, just a regular, down-to-earth guy.” At 31, Eddie Aikau was on top of the world! In 1978, the Polynesian Voyaging Society was looking for volunteers for a 30-day, 2,500-mile journey following the ancient Polynesian route

PHOTO: Otremb a - Eddie Woul

IN 1959, the Aikau family moved to Oahu. Eddie dropped out of high school at 16 and began working at the Dole Pineapple Cannery to help support the family. He was able to surf on his breaks and schedule his job around his passion. He bought his first brand new surfboard with his paycheck from Dole—a Dale Velzy. Because of Eddie’s ability as a skilled waterman and good swimmer, and because he was at home when surfing big waves, he was hired by the City and County as the first lifeguard on the North Shore. Although he did not have a high school diploma, the City made an exception

d Go

PHOTO: Jeff Divine

Eddie took first place in the 1977 Duke Kahanamoku Invitational.

Eddie at his lifeguard stand at Waimea Bay.

Winter 2012–2013 //



PHOTOs: David Bettencourt


Eddie preparing the Hokule’a for its voyage. The world tragically lost Eddie Aikau on March 17, 1978.

of the migration between the Hawaiian and Tahitian island chains. Eddie was excited and wanted to be part of history and his Hawaiian ancestry. He was proud of his heritage. He was a descendent of Kahuna Nui Hewahewa, the highest Hawaiian priest in the 19th century. Hewahewa became the caretaker of Waimea Valley where, 100 years later, Eddie would guard the beach. This young lifeguard was thrilled with the prospect of being a crewmember of the voyage. He even composed a song for the double-hulled canoe named the Hokule’a, Hawaiian for North Star. Eddie prevailed and was chosen to make the round-trip journey (The second for the Hokule’a). On a windy afternoon on March 16, 1978, the Governor, press, and thousands of well-wishers and family were at the Magic Island in Waikiki for the send off. The conditions weren’t ideal, but with all the fanfare and the pressure to cast off, the crew reluctantly departed and headed south.

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The weather worsened with waves slamming against the canoe creating a leak in one of the hulls. Eventually deep in the Molokai Channel, 12 miles off the coast of Lanai, the Hokule’a capsized. There were no escort boats to notify officials of trouble, the emergency radio and emergency beacon were washed overboard. Now, the course of the Hokulea was being set by the stars. The crew clung to the canoe for eight hours in the dark before Eddie bravely volunteered to paddle his surfboard to Lanai for help. After much debate, Eddie shoved off with a few oranges strung around his neck, his surfboard leash tied to his ankle, and a life vest strapped to his chest. Within a few hundred yards of the overturned boat, Eddie shed the vest to paddle unencumbered. His daring silhouette got smaller and smaller as he rose to his knees and paddled towards the lights of Lanai, braving the choppy surf and gale force winds. That was the last time Eddie Aikau was ever seen. Several hours later, as the sun came up, a small plane spotted the Hokule’a and her stranded crew. Within minutes, a Coast Guard vessel was dispatched and the exhausted survivors were rescued. The largest air-sea search in modern Hawaiian history failed to find Eddie. “He gave his life to save others,” stated his grief-stricken younger brother, Clyde Aikau. It was a sad day in Hawaiian history when this 31-year old big wave rider, lifeguard, and Polynesian voyager was lost at sea. “Eddie Would Go” has become a very popular saying attributed to Eddie Aikau. It’s on bumper stickers and t-shirts all over the world. The phrase originated at the first Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational contest when Mark Foo, another big wave rider and competitor, overheard the judges debating whether to hold the contest because the waves were so big and dangerous. Knowing Eddie’s love of riding massive surf and charging into the waves to make rescues, Mark interjected, “Eddie would go”. The judges agreed, the contest was on, and the phrase stuck. Stuart Coleman, author, teacher and local coordinator for Surfrider Foundation Oahu Chapter,

Eddie’s surf contest accomplishments 1968

Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Eddie Aikau (3rd place)


Smirnoff Contest, Hawaii Eddie Aikau (3rd place)


World Cup Contest, Hawaii Eddie Aikau (3rd place)


Smirnoff Contest, Hawaii Eddie Aikau (3rd place)


Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Eddie Aikau (1st place)

just released his 10th anniversary edition book about Eddie Aikau’s life, Eddie Would Go. During his research Stuart came to know Eddie as, “Genuinely selfless and, although painfully shy, would step into positions of leadership to resolve issues between surfers with conflicts on the North Shore. Eddie was also a talented musician and slack key guitarist.” So, when you are on the North Shore, looking out over Waimea Bay, for winter surf or summer snorkeling, remember Eddie Aikau. Come visit the plaque honoring this Hawaiian legend at the entrance to the beach. Reflect and

Winter 2012–2013 //




Eddie’s legacy lives on... understand the importance of one man who challenged the sea, who paddled into the dark night to save his fellow voyagers, and to this day inspires others to dare the big waves.

as a precious gift! One of our goals is to inspire and encourage people of all walks of life to do the right thing when they have the chance.

mission statement: The Eddie Aikau Foundation is a charitable organization created to share Eddie Aikau’s life, contributions and accomplishments while promoting education and the advancement of Hawaiian culture. Founded by the Aikau Family, the Foundation pays tribute to Edward Ryon Makuahanai Aikau in honor of his love for his family and others, his courage and compassion in saving lives, and his dedication to the Hawaiian People and their culture. Eddie’s legacy is a pure symbol of the Aloha Spirit. goals: The Eddie Aikau Foundation’s ambitious goals are realized through advocacy, education and philanthropy. These goals include: advancing education and community service; supporting ocean-related activities and events; assisting in the preservation and perpetuation of Hawaiian history and culture; and encouraging Hawaiians and visitors alike to respect and contribute to the growth and development of Hawaiian culture. Through Eddie’s remarkable spirit and character, the Foundation strives to inspire people to develop a strong sense of pride in themselves, their heritage and their community. courage to do the right thing: Eddie Aikau had courage to ride giant waves in Hawaii. He was a man who rode “mountains”. He was also a person who had the ultimate courage to do the right thing. Eddie was a lifeguard. He saved the lives of people of all races, color and creed with no hesitation. To lose one life was something he tried to prevent with all his might. He loved life

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PHOTO: Jeff Divine

The Eddie Aikau Foundation

The Essay Contest The Eddie Aikau Foundation has been conducting an annual Essay Contest since 2006 for all the 7th to 10th grade students in the State of Hawaii, from both public and private schools, including those students in a state monitored home- school program. There are English and Hawaiian Language Divisions so the students can submit their essays in either language for judging. For 2012 essay contest that ended this past March, 627 essays were submitted for judging. The Foundation also has a new Scholarship program for graduating High School Seniors and just awarded $20,000 in scholarships to 15 students, this past June.

After four years of research, writing and more than 40 interviews with Eddie's family, friends and fellow watermen, Stuart Coleman published the biography Eddie Would Go, in 2002. The book went on to become a bestseller and it earned the Cades Award for Literature. A paperback edition was published by St. Martin's Press in 2004, and the biography has since been translated into Japanese, Portuguese and German. This year marks the 10th Anniversary of the book's publication, and the new edition is available at Barnes & Noble and other bookstores, as well as on Amazon, Kindle and iBooks. For more information, go to www. or

Winter 2012–2013 //




Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Photos By Sean Davey

➊ Quiksilver, an international surf wear and ocean lifestyle company, honors Eddie Aikau by sponsoring, “The Eddie”---the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau. This surfing contest, created in 1984 at Sunset Beach and moved to Waimea Bay in 1987, draws big wave riders from around the world to the North Shore. There are also hundreds of spectators. Every year, as large swells make way to Hawaii, everyone wants to know “are they going to have the Eddie?” Any early swell, the largest in 15 years on this date, hit the north and west shores of Oahu with 20’ to 25’ faces in early October 2012, leaving the surf world anticipating and hoping for large swells. Will we see The Eddie this year? Because surfing conditions must be just right, The Eddie has been held only eight times since its inception. Open ocean swells must reach a minimum of 20 feet equaling a wave face of 30 feet in the Bay, with good surfing conditions. The most recent contest was held in December of 2009 when waves were registering 30 to 50 feet. Only 28 surfers are invited to vie for first prize in two rounds of competition. Clyde Aikau, Eddie’s brother, won the first Eddie in 1985 and continues to surf in the contest. Current holding period is December 1, 2012 to February 28, 2013. The opening ceremony is November 29, 2012.

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Past Winners 2009/2010 Greg Long

2004/2005 Bruce Irons

2001/2002 kelly slater

➌ 1. Paying tribute to Eddie 2. Kelly Slater 3. Opening ceremony 4. Kealii Mamala 5.Sunny Garcia 6. Kahea Hart

2000/2001 Ross Clarke-Jones

1998/1999 Noah Johnson

1989/1990 Keone Downing

1986/1987 Clyde Aikau

1984/1985 Denton Miyamura

Winter 2012–2013 //



EDDIE AIKAU Photos By Sean Davey

Surfboards New, Surfboards Used & Vintage

New, Used & Vintage

Stand Up Paddleboards Stand Up Paddleboards New & Used ➋ ➌ ➊ 1. Tom Carroll 2. Andy Irons 3. Greg Long

Rex Dubiel is the Vice President of the North Shore Outdoor Circle and has been in charge of the bike path at Sunset Beach for 17 years. She has been a third grade teacher for 22 years at Sunset Beach Elementary on Oahu’s North Shore and is the Garden Site Coordinator at her school for Jack Johnson’s Kokua Hawaii Foundation. Rex has a ‘dog with a blog’ – it’s a literacy site for children of all ages. Follow the dog’s adventures at Also, you can meet Rex and her stuffed pooch, Rex, at the Haleiwa Farmer’s Market Thursdays from 3 pm to 7pm at Waimea Valley.

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New & Used

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Oahu’s North Shore

There is a good reason why the North Shore of Oahu is known my most in the surf community as the seven-mile miracle. Spanning from Haleiwa Ali’i Beach Park to Sunset Beach, this stretch of coastline is home to some of the best surf spots in the world including Waimea Bay and Banzai Pipeline. Duke Kahanamoku is largely to thank for the growth of international surfing in the early 1900’s but it wasn’t until the 1940’s and 1950’s that big wave surfing became popular on the North Shore. Early big-wave surfers including George Downing, Wally Froiseth, Woody Brown, Joe Quigg, Buzzy Trent, Greg Noll, Pat Curren, Mickey Munoz, Jack Webb, Mickey Munoz, Fred Van Dyke and Jose Angel were taming the North Shores biggest waves including Waimea, Sunset and the outer reef breaks. With the jaw-dropping rides being captured by video and photo, and delivered into people’s homes all around the world, this brought a new rush of visitors to the North Shore, both to see it first hand, and some brave souls to test their limits in the life threatening waters. The North Shore is now world-renowned for its surfing but it is also rich in history, art, culture; and is home to some of the most beautiful beaches on Oahu.

Waialua Hale‘iwa

Haleiwa was a major agricultural town long before it became the surf capitol that it is today. The railroads were built to transport sugar cane to the harbor. After Haleiwa Hotel was built in 1898 the railroads became the main transportation for visitors to the North Shore. The hotel was built by wealthy businessman Benjamin Dillingham and named Haleiwa which means ‘house of the bird.’ This was the start of the tourism boom on the North Shore. The hotel was demolished in 1952, widely believed because of termite damage. Local businessman and former politician, Andy Anderson, is attempting to rebuild the beautiful hotel, but he is coming up against some fierce local opposition to the new structure. Haleiwa is now a popular surf town, artistic hub, and home to some of Hawaii’s best eats and shops. Most of the businesses on the North Shore are locally owned – resulting in a unique blend of product, dining and hospitality – a break from our corporate-dominated lives.

If you want to escape the busy lifestyle of Waikiki, or even Halewia for that matter, try Waialua. Waialua is a rustic lowly-populated town with a feel of old Hawaii. Waialua is also a former major producer in the sugar industry. The rich and fertile lands are now used to grow some of Hawaii’s best coffee. The Waialua Sugar Mill has been transformed into one of Hawaii’s most-popular choices for pro and core surfers for their surfboards. Famous shapers including JC, Minami, Pyzel and Eric Arakawa shape boards at the Mill. It might be hard to find your favorite shaper so stop in at III Stone and talk to Steve about the board that’s best for you. Also at the Sugar Mill are the North Shore Soap Factory, Island X, Haleiwa Surfboard Company, Island Fin Design and other shops. Do you think you are getting the best shave ice in Haleiwa? Try Island X’s secret recipes from Taiwan for some of Hawaii’s best shave ice. The Sugar Mill also hosts the Waialua Farmer’s Market each Saturday from 8:30 am until 1:00 pm but we recommend you get there early.

Haleiwa Beach Park

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Haleiwa Ali’i Beach Park

Halewia Ali'i Beach Park is home of the first stop of The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing – The Reef Hawaiian Pro. The beach park is in walking distance from Haleiwa. Located next door to the harbor and just a couple of blocks drive off Kamehameha Highway this laid back beach park is a popular place with locals. There are two full length basketball courts and volleyball courts; and a playground for the keiki. With lots of open grass, large beach, and palm trees for shade, It's a great place for birthday parties and celebrations. If you walk past the recreation building, to the left, you will find a somewhat unknown place for turtle viewing.

Haleiwa Beach Park

Not to be confused with Haleiwa Ali’i Beach Park, Haleiwa Beach Park has over 250 feet of beautiful sandy beach. This beach park, across the harbor from Ali’I Beach Park is also within walking distance from Haleiwa, and just past Surf N Sea on your left as you leave town. The beach park has lots of open space, a playground and shaded areas for parties or just chillin’ and relaxing. Take a moment to honor and remember local fallen soldiers and check out the WWII memorial. On each side of the obelisk are carved the names of the dead heroes of World War II, the Korean Conflict and the Vietnam War "who gave their lives that the rest of the world may live in peace." The memorial was dedicated by the Waialua Lions Club on July 4, 1947. Among those honored are the sixteen area men who died in World War II.

Winter 2012–2013 //









to Waimea Sunset Pipeline




Hale`iwa Beach Park

Surf N Sea

Ali`i Beach Park

Loko`ea Fishpond

Hale'iwa Joes

Kaiaka Bay Beach Park

Highw eong

Lanikai Juice




Quiksilver Boardriders North Shore

Kaika Bay

Josep hPL



Grass Skirt Grill

Sterman Realty

Breakers Restaurant Post Office

Chamber & Halwe’iwa Main Street

Beet Box Cafe Wave Riding Vehicles

Kam H



North Shore Surf Shop


Oahu’s North


Blue Water Shrimp


Killer Tacos Xcel

Waialua Beach Road

Weed Circle

To Kaena Point


to Wahiawa Schofield Honolulu

to Mokule`ia

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Winter 2012–2013 //




PHOTO: Joem Costes

PHOTO: Sean Davey

the beauty and power oF PIPELINE

Waimea Bay

Home of the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau, a big wave invitational surf contest held only one day, if and when conditions are perfect, Waimea Bay provides surfers with some of the biggest waves on the North Shore. Waimea only breaks when wave heights reach 8’ to 10’ in size. Parking is hard to find at just about any time of the day and any time of the year. Waimea Valley, across the street from the bay, offers overflow paid parking when the lot is full. If there is a big swell coming and talk of The Eddie, fagedaboudit and go somewhere else. Try watch the Eddie from your living room.

the dangers that lie beneath

Ehukai Beach Park is the site of Banzai Pipeline, is the most famous surf break in Hawaii and probably the world. Pipeline is home of the third and final stop of The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing – Billabong Pipeline Masters. Pipeline is known for its fast, steep and hollow tubes – that’s above the surface. The other reason Pipeline is so famous is the treacherous coral heads that wreak havoc on the bodies of surfers when they wipe out. Pipeline is amazing too because the break is so close to shore and the site of a 35’ wall of water with a brave soul surfing it only 100’ away is jaw-dropping, breath-taking and awe-inspiring.

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PHOTO: Sean Davey

Ehukai Beach Park

Winter 2012–2013 //




Sharks Cove Located between two of the world’s most famous surf breaks - Banzai Pipeline and Waimea Bay - is a beautiful underwater world named Sharks Cove. The unique rock formations create many crevices and underwater tunnels resulting in abundant coral and other marine life. Sharks Cove is a great place for beginner snorkeling and scuba, but if you plan to dive, only work with Certified Open Water Scuba Instructors. There are no lifeguards, and the winter months bring heavy

Notice the three people in the middle of the cove? They are standing on coral. Don’t do it!

swells to the area. Check the surf report and use extreme caution because Sharks Cove is unsafe for snorkeling or scuba during the winter months. You are better off renting a board from North Shore Surf Shop, or enjoying the big waves from Sharks Cove Grill for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Parking is in front of Sharks Cove as well as behind NS Surf Shop. NS Surf shop has lockers to safely store your stuff. Keep an eye out as many famous active and old-time surfers frequent the area.

North Shore Surf Shop is located across the street from Sharks Cove. Whether you are snorkeling, surfing, or a SUP paddler, we have everything you need to get you in the water. Ask us also about conditions and to inquire if its safe to get in the water.

Sharks Cove, 59-063 Pahoe Rd. (808) 638-0390 We have high quality snorkel gear for all shapes and sizes of people.

Check out our Haleiwa shop. 66-200 Kam Hwy. (808) 637-6777

We have plenty surfboards for rent...

Our trained staff will ensure you have the right fit.

....and bikes too.

59-712 Kam Hwy., (808) 638-8300 Open, fresh and friendly from 8:30 to 8:30 Enjoy Ocean and Sunset Views Try our specialties - Fresh Ahi Taro Bun Sandwich and Banana Protein Smoothie Fresh Salads

Sharks Cove falls within a Marine Life Conservation District. Malama Pupukea-Waimea was formed to replenish and sustain the natural and cultural resources, and to conserve and replenish marine species for present and future generations. This is achieved through active community stewardship, education, and public and private partnerships. If you frequent the protected area, please help

the cause by donating at the website www. Sharks Cove is also one of the top places on Oahu for whales viewed per hour. Whale viewing months are January through March.

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The reason you will find little rubbish is the beach cleanups held each Saturday. Ka’ala Farms came all the way from the West Side for this cleanup.

Winter 2012–2013 //




Sunset Beach Park

Sunset beach hosts the second stop of The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing – The Vans World Cup of Surfing. Spanning from Ehukai Beach Park to Sunset Point, this two-mile length of white sand is home of various surf breaks. Sunset Beach has some very nice tidal pools that are great for the keiki or exploring nature.

Beach Lawn and, of course, Turtle Bay. Almost five miles of beachfront makes it among the most mesmerizing settings in the Hawaiian Islands. Numerous varieties of activities are offered at this unique resort.

Quiksilver AD


Turtle Bay Resort

57-091 Kamehameha Highway, Kahuku (808) 293-6000 Turtle Bay Resort is the only resort destination on the North Shore. It is the perfect place to take in the azure beauty of Kawela Bay, Bay View 26 // Winter 2012–2013

Kahuku is a former sugar mill plantation town. Recreational activities include hiking, fishing, sailing, walking, swimming, surfing and more. At Turtle Bay you will find 36 holes of some of America's best golf. Sightseers can visit rainforests, waterfalls, beaches and art galleries. Kahuku is famous for its shrimp trucks including Romi’s, Fumi’s and Ono Shrimp Truck. Kahuku has locally harvested shrimp farms. If you are not a shrimp lover, try Kahuku Grill at the Kahuku Sugar Mill. Winter 2012–2013 //




Brigham Young University

to the cool, misty uplands, Waimea Valley has become home to a vast array of ferns, flowering plants, invertebrates, birds, stream life, and Hawaii’s only land mammal, the hoary bat. One of last partially intact ahupua‘a on O`ahu, Waimea Valley consists of 1,875 acres and has been a sacred place for more than 700 years of Native Hawaiian history. Waimea, “The Valley of the Priests,” gained its title around 1090 when the ruler of O‘ahu awarded the land to the kähuna nui. Descendants of the high priests lived and cared for much of the Valley until 1886. Waimea Valley is a great place for a day’s worth of fun and activities. The cool, breezy and shaded grounds make for a great hike to the Waihi Waterfall. You will also enjoy the botanical gardens, cultural activities, retail shops and locally grown, made in Hawaii dining and snacking.


One of America's premiere four-year universities, BYU-Hawaii is an accredited undergraduate institution with 2,500 students from more than 70 countries. BYU-Hawaii is a unique multi-cultural campus where spiritual as well as academic learning is encouraged among the most "international" student bodies in the U.S.

towering palm tree with just your hands and feet. Or tour the Iosepa, a great voyaging canoe and learn the secrets of ancient navigation techniques. PCC is a great experience for the entire family.

Waimea Valley

59-864 Kamehameha Highway, North Shore (808) 638-7766 Waimea Valley was carved by rain and wind from the flank of the Ko‘olau Mountain range some two million years ago. With its range of habitats stretching from the dry, salty sea shore

Polynesian Cultural Center

55-370 Kamehameha Highway, Laie (808) 367-7060 Entertaining, lavish, and bigger-than-Life may begin to describe your visit to the Center. Mixed in with all the entertainment is a surprising amount of exposure to a vast array of Polynesian cultures originating in Tonga, Fiji, Tahiti, Samoa, Aotearoa (Maori New Zealand), the Marquesas, Rapa Nui (Easter Island), and of course Hawaii. Enjoy authentic and intriguing performances. Join in the interactive activities and shows in each of eight island villages and exhibits. See how to start a fire with sticks, rip open a coconut with your bare hands, make tapa cloth, or climb a 28 // Winter 2012–2013

Laniakea Beach

Laniakea beach or Lani’s is referred to incorrectly as Turtle Beach due to the natural sanctuary

North Shore Chamber of Commerce/ Haleiwa Main Street

66-434 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa (808) 637-4558 Looking for the raw facts and best places to go on the North Shore? Check out the Chamber’s historic building located across from the post office. The visitor’s center is rich with history about Haleiwa, Waialua and the North Shore. Learn more about the North Shore through historical displays and photos. Pick up free area maps, brochures, and guides to tour beaches, attractions, and activities. The Chamber also offers business services including fax, copy, internet, scanning and laminating.

Winter 2012–2013 //



NORTH SHORE of many Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles. Laniakea has become the hot-spot for turtle viewing in Hawaii. If you pass by the beach, you’ll notice the hundreds of visitors and surfers crossing the road at various times and the awful traffic that occurs. This has caused a major strain on local traffic and residents. The City and County of Honolulu is considering various options to control the flow of people and ease the traffic. One of the options on the table is to completely shut down the parking area – a sign of how bad its getting. Do everyone a favor and try to cross in groups allowing traffic to go by. Or go the Haleiwa Ali’i Beach Park for less crowded turtle viewing that is far less dangerous then Laniakea.

Cathy Shanley at Sterman Realty

66-250 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa (808) 271-1831 Sterman Realty provides over 30 years of real estate knowledge of the North Shore. Cathy Shanley, a licensed realtor, has been a North Shore resident for 20 years and has 12 years of experience in realty and property management on the island of Oahu. She is happy to answer any questions you have about the North Shore and works successfully with both buyers and sellers.


66-590 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa (808) 637-6239 Xcel has been making high quality wetsuits since 1982. Their surf, dive, UV protection, paddle, and wake products combine to form the core of Xcel’s brand appeal. Xcel’s military issue wetsuits are produced at their factory underneath the retail shop in Haleiwa, providing many crucial local jobs. Xcel’s reputation for exceptional product quality is a clear result of an unwavering dedication to research, development, and design innovation. With tropical to cold-water products for men, women, and youth, the brand stresses performance: maximum stretch and durability, sealed-seam construction, and a fit that feels custom-made every time. Xcel has been voted Surf Industry Manufacturer’s Association (SIMA) “Wetsuit of the Year” by its industry peers three times (2007, 2008, 2010).

Quiksilver Northshore Boardriders Club

66-250 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa (808) 637-5026 The Northshore Boardriders Club surf shop is a locally owned franchise of Quicksilver International. This family owned

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Surf N Sea foot traffic – that’s how popular they are. Surf N Sea is situated right on the beach in a private atmosphere making it easy to get in the water. Owner Joe Green is also a talented musician, very active in the community and is now building high-end ukuleles with his own hands.

Wave Riding Vehicles

62-595 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa (808) 637-7873 Wave Riding Vehicles was founded in 1967 as a board manufacturer. WRV is recognized internationally for quality and uniqueness with shops in Haleiwa, Virginia North Carolina and Puerto Rico. It has famous brands like Billabong, Volcom, O'Niell, Rusty, Oakley, Electric, FCS, Future Fins, skate boards and WRV

Surf N Sea

Surf Shops


and run surf shop is owned by legendary big wave surfer, Barry Kanaiaupuni, and managed by his lovely wife and daughters. Walk through the doors and you'll find surfboards, swimwear, casual wear, boogie boards, sunglasses, stand up paddle boards, stickers, t-shirts, surf memorabilia, longboards, beach towels, backpacks, clothing and accessories. Get your hands on one of Barry’s hand shaped BK longboards.

62-595 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa (808) 637-7873 Since 1965 Surf N Sea has been one of the North Shore’s premiere surf shops. They offer surfing lessons, surf tours, surfboard rentals, bodyboarding, scuba services, snorkeling, sales & repairs for the novice to the professional. One local surf shop owner admitted they feed off the  SURF N SEA

WAVE RIDING VEHICLES Winter 2012–2013 //



NORTH SHORE logo products as well.

Surf Schools

North Shore Surf Clinics (808) 386-7877

North Shore Surf Clinics offers one-on-one and group surf coaching for beginners, or experienced surfers who want to hone their technique and competitive skills. Also available are private lessons on how to surf big waves. They offer personal training and boot camp training programs whether you're preparing for the winter surf season in Hawaii or just looking to drop a few pounds and get in shape. Founder Kahea Hart is core waterman, surfing giant waves at The Eddie, competing on the ASP world tour, a certified professional trainer, and currently coaching the Hawaii Junior Surf Team.

brand, Ken Bradshaw. Ken is what many refer to as a ‘soul surfer.’ A soul surfer is one who surfs for the pure enjoyment and not interested in competing. If you want to experience surfing with an icon, call Ken.

Hans Hedemann Surf School (808) 447-6755 Hans Hedemann competed on ASP World Tour for 17 years and won various World Tour events. After retiring from professional surfing, he established Hans Hedemann Surf School in 1997. His Waikiki location is one of the premiere surf schools in the world. Hans Hedemann Surf School also offers lessons at Turtle Bay Resort.

Nancy Emerson School of Surfing (808) 294-5544 Ken Bradshaw Hawaiian Surf School

(808) 391-6656 Ken Bradshaw is a true big wave surfing pioneer. He is also one of the first to master tow surfing at some of the North Shore’s larger outerreef breaks. Ken broke so many boards charging big waves that he began shaping his own boards and eventually scored a contract with Lightning Bolt. Ken then launched his own surfboard

32 // Winter 2012–2013

Nancy Emerson, a former world champion surfer with 35 years teaching experience, offers North Shore Surf Safaris that cover the total surfing experience. The clinic includes surfing, a local style lunch, surf coaching, boards and transportation from your South shore accommodation. Along with her team of accredited instructors, Nancy will teach you how to surf, the basics of form and technique, as well as water safety, ocean awareness and wave conditions.

Winter 2012–2013 //




Ken Bradshaw Hawaiian Surf School

North Shore


cious Hawaiian syle plate lunches. Enjoy the taste of the North Shore! Johnnie brings in fresh fish daily from Haleiwa Harbor and salads made with locally grown veggies.

62-595 Kam Hwy.,Haleiwa, Hawaii 96712


Killer Tacos

66-560 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa (808) 637-4573 Killer Tacos offers tacos, burritos, and more! They have great burritos including the pork burrito, and a local twist on tacos. Get a bite of their Shortboard Burrito or Longboard Burrito. Like fish? Try the Fish Burrito or Fish Taco. Great menu prices for in and out traveler.

(808) 637-7873 Beet Box Café

66-443 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa (808) 637-3000 At The Beet Box Café, they serve among the healthiest food on the North Shore with intention! They use organic produce and grains and strive to support the local farms and serve fresh food.

Grass Skirt Grill

66-214 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa (808) 637-4852 Supa ono food & fun people! Located in the center of Haleiwa, Grass Skirt Grill offers ono-li-

Winter 2012–2013 //




Cafe Haleiwa Lanikai Juice


66-250 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa (808) 637-9898 Breakers Restaurant & Bar is the place where surfers go to eat. With their warm friendly atmosphere and palate-pleasing cuisine, they prepare meals using the freshest ingredients to delight your taste buds. Enjoy a selection of Hawaiian fresh fish of the day, Szechuan Marinated Flank Steak, Sonny's Hawaiian Plate, or Machado's Surf Tacos. Like football? Breakers opens early on Sundays and plays all NFL games.

66-215 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa (808) 637-7774 There is a small, local juice bar decorated with their mantra "Fresh, Pure, Hawaiian." Lanikai Juice offers smoothies with fresh, locally-grown fruit. Popular tropical smoothies include Waimanalo Blue, Kailua Monkey and Da Kine. Try the Acai bowl topped with honey, bananas and granola. Its delicious.

66-460 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa (808) 637-5516 A popular North Shore diner opened in 1982 that's usually packed around breakfast time. This joint is popular with anyone who loves mahi mahi plate lunches and sandwiches. It's a wake-up-andhit-the-beach kind of place, serving omelets and pancakes for breakfast.

Blue Water Shrimp

66-031 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa (808) 228-6314 Looking for some of the North Shores best garlic shrimp plate lunch? Look no further. Choose mild, medium or spicy buttery garlic shrimp and prepare to get messy. The time to peel back the shell from the succulent shrimp is well worth it. Blue Water also cooks steak to order, pork chops or a hamburger steak with gravy and onions. Located at the 76 gas station.

 Breakers

36 // Winter 2012–2013

Winter 2012–2013 //




On site at the Billabong Pipe Maters.

This 2012 winter surf season marks the 30th anniversary of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing (VTCS). Founded in 1983, the Triple Crown is set at three landmark breaks on the North Shore of Oahu: Haleiwa Ali'i Beach, Sunset Beach, and Banzai Pipeline.

Michael Bourez at Pipeline. Bourez, who is from Tahiti, finished 2nd behind John John at the 2011 VTCS.

photO: ASP-Cestari Right PHOTOs: ASP-Kirstin

Taryn Wong Fowler Contributor

Joel Parkinson, winner of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing in 2008, 2009 & 2010.

38 // Winter 2012–2013

Winter 2012–2013 //




2011 - John John Florence, Hawaii 2010 - Joel Parkinson, Australia 2009 - Joel Parkinson, Australia 2008 - Joel Parkinson, Australia 2007 - Bede Durbidge, Australia 2006 - Andy Irons, Hawaii 2005 - Andy Irons, Hawaii 2004 - Sunny Garcia, Hawaii 2003 - Andy Irons, Hawaii 2002 - Andy Irons, Hawaii 2001 - Myles Padaca, Hawaii 2000 - Sunny Garcia, Hawaii 1999 - Sunny Garcia, Hawaii 1998 - Kelly Slater, USA 1997 - Mike Rommelse, Australia

1996 - Kaipo Jaquias, Hawaii 1995 - Kelly Slater, USA 1994 - Sunny Garcia, Hawaii 1993 - Sunny Garcia, Hawaii 1992 - Sunny Garcia, Hawaii 1991 - Tom Carroll, Australia 1990 - Derek Ho, Hawaii 1989 - Gary Elkerton, Australia 1988 - Derek Ho, Hawaii 1987 - Gary Elkerton, Australia 1986 - Derek Ho, Hawaii 1985 - Michael Ho, Hawaii 1984 - Derek Ho, Hawaii 1983 - Michael Ho, Hawaii

photO: ASP-Cestari

Taj Burrow competing at the Billabong Pipe Masters.

2011 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Champion John John Florence. John John was born and raised in Hawaii. 40 // Winter 2012–2013

From the technical waves at Haleiwa, to the powerful walls at Sunset Beach, and the infamous barrels at the Banzai Pipeline, the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Champion is the surfer who has the diversity, ability, and stamina to excel in the uniquely demanding surf conditions at all three spots. Each event will have individual winners and after the three events the surfer who scores the most points overall is crowned the Triple Crown Champion, the most prestigious title-within-a-title that surfing has to offer. In addition to having the final stop of the 2012 Men’s Tour, VTCS is a significant event for the 2013 ASP World Tour because the Reef Hawaiian Pro and the Van's World Cup are the last ASP Prime events and point qualifiers for 2013's World Tour. Furthermore, the Pipeline Masters is the last event of Triple Crown and also the final event of the 2012 ASP Men’s World Tour. Hawaii is the mecca of professional surfing. The first international surfing contest was held in Hawaii, the Makaha International Surfing Championship in 1954 at Makaha, the birth place of big wave surfing located on the west side of Oahu. While Makaha introduced the competitive surfing world to Hawaii, the major recognition of Oahu’s potential came when events began on the North Shore. In 1971, the first Pipe Masters event was staged by former world champion surfer and eventual founder of the Triple Crown of Surfing Series Fred Hemmings. This year, the Billabong Pipe Masters celebrates its 40th year. In 1983, Hemmings decided to create a title that would better showcase the three existing Hawaiian events - the Pipe Masters, World Cup of Surfing, and the Hawaiian Pro. With their world recognition already secure he linked the three contests into a series collectively known as ‘The Triple Crown of Surfing.’ Last year's 2011 Triple Crown champion John John Florence (HAW) was the youngest surfer at the age of 19 to ever win. John John broke records and even Joel Parkinson's (AUS) 2008, 2009, and 2010 VTCS winning streak. Winter 2012–2013 //



Reef Hawaiian Pro



2011 Reef Hawaiian Pro winner Taj Burrow.

N O V E M B E R 1 2 - 2 4 2 0 1 2 L












N O R T H S H O R E H A L E I W A , H A W A I I V






















2011 - Taj Burrow, AUS 2010 - Joel Parkinson, AUS 2009 - Joel Centeio, HAW 2008 - Michel Bourez, Tahiti 2007 - Roy Powers, HAW 2006 - Andy Irons, HAW 2005 - Pancho Sullivan, HAW 2004 - Sunny Garcia, HAW 2003 - Troy Brooks, AUS










Haleiwa (Ali’i Beach Park) Best known as the gateway to the Seven-Mile Miracle. Located in Haleiwa town Ali’i Beach Park hosts the first stop of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, the Reef Hawaiian Pro. The event runs on the west side of the Haleiwa Boat Harbor, where Haleiwa’s tricky reef is capable of delivering hollow rights, rippable sections and powerful closeouts.

2002 - Sunny Garcia, HAW 2001 - Andy Irons, HAW 2000 - Sunny Garcia, HAW 1999 - Conan Hayes, HAW 1998 - Kaipo Jaquias, HAW 1997 - Tony Ray, AUS 1996 - Kaipo Jaquias, HAW 1995 - Richard Lovett, AUS 1994 - Chris Brown, USA


PM 9/19/12 1:25


CUP 24X10.75.indd


1993 - Sunny Garcia, HAW 1992 - Sunny Garcia, HAW 1991 - Tom Curren, USA 1990 - Nicky Wood, AUS 1989 - Cheyne Horan, AUS 1988 - Barton Lynch, AUS 1987 - Gary Elkerton, AUS 1986 - Mark Richards, AUS 1985 - Mark Richards, AUS


Vans World Cup of Surfing

Location: Sunset Beach Holding Period: November 25 – December 6 Prize Purse: $250,000 Men’s Prime Event

The World Cup of Surfing is the second jewel of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. Held at Sunset Beach, the big wave event is steeped in tradition, as the infamously long and shifty wave is held in the highest esteem by big wave surfers around the world. A true test for any waterman, the waves at Sunset are spread across a huge playing field, which challenges the fitness of the surfers to get in the right spot to catch the best and biggest waves. Notorious for being unruly and complex, only a few dedicated surfers have mastered the lineup and the powerful waves that pour down the point. 42

photOs: ASP-Kirstin


Location: Haleiwa Ali'i Beach Holding Period: November 12 – 24 Prize Purse: $145,000 Men’s Prime Event // Winter 2012–2013

2011 Vans World Cup Winner John John Florence on stage with Hank Gaskell and Michael Bourez.

Winter 2012–2013 //



John John coming high off the lip at Sunset.

2011 - John John Florence, HAW 2010 - Raoni Monteiro, Brazil 2009 - Joel Parkinson, AUS 2008 - C.J. Hobgood, USA 2007 - Makuakai Rothman, HAW 2006 - Joel Parkinson, AUS 2005 - Jake Patterson, AUS 2004 - Andy Irons, HAW 2003 - Jake Patterson, AUS 2002 - Joel Parkinson, AUS 2001 - Myles Padaca, HAW 2000 - Sunny Garcia, HAW


photO: ASP-Kirstin



1999 - Zane Harrison, AUS 1998 - Shane Dorian, HAW 1997 - Michael Rommelse, AUS 1996 - Paul Patterson, AUS 1995 - Shane Powell, AUS 1994 - Sunny Garcia, HAW 1993 - John Gomes, HAW 1992 - Martin Potter, UK 1991 - Fabio Gouveia, Brazil 1990 - Derek Ho, HAW 1989 - Hans Hedemann, HAW 1988 - Tom Carroll, AUS

Hawaii’s Original Surf School FUN, SAFE, EASY • Beginners thru to Elite Pro Coaching • The complete Hawaiian Surf Experience • Longboards • Short Boards • Stand Up Paddle • NO CROWDS • North Shore Surf Safaris • Surf Clinics


In Memory of Andy Irons Location: Banzai Pipeline Holding Period: December 8-20 Prize Purse: $425,000 Men’s World Tour Event

2011 Billabong Pipe Masters winner Kieren Perrow.

The Billabong Pipe Masters, the final stop of the Vans Triple Crown and the final event of the ASP Men’s World Tour, is the perfect venue for the culmination of both series. An iconic and historic wave, the Banzai Pipeline is often referred to as the best wave on the planet. Known for its perfect, heaving top-to-bottom barrels and its close proximity to shore, not only is it the perfect wave for those willing to charge, but also for the spectators on the beach.


Image courtesy David Pu’u.

1987 - Gary Elkerton, AUS 1986 - Hans Hedemann, HAW 1985 - Michael Ho, HAW 1984 - Michael Ho, HAW 1983 - Michael Ho, HAW 1982 - Tom Carroll, AUS 1981 - Dane Kealoha, HAW 1980 - Ian Cairns, AUS 1979 - Mark Richards, AUS 1978 - Buzzy Kerbox, HAW 1977 - Shaun Tomson, South Africa 1976 - Ian Cairns, Australia

Billabong Pipe Masters

RESERVATIONS ESSENTIAL. CALL (808) 294-5544 or 44 // Winter 2012–2013

Winter 2012–2013 //


VANS TRIPLE CROWN OF SURFING Attention Adrenaline Seekers


H2O Sports Launches the JetPack!


photO: ASP-Kirstin

- The first commercial installation in the country. - The only JetPacks in Hawaii.

Perrow, who finished second at the Pipe Masters behind Jeremy Flores in 2010, said this event was the best he has surfed Pipeline his career.

2011 - Kieren Perrow, AUS 2010 - Jeremy Flores, FRA 2009 - Taj Burrow, AUS 2008 - Kelly Slater, USA 2007 - Bede Durbidge, AUS 2006 - Andy Irons, HAW 2005 - Andy Irons, HAW 2004 - Jamie O’Brien, HAW 2003 - Andy Irons, HAW 2002 - Andy Irons, HAW 2001 - Bruce Irons, HAW 2000 - Rob Machado, USA


1999 - Kelly Slater, USA 1998 - Jake Patterson, AUS 1997 - John Gomes, HAW 1996 - Kelly Slater, USA 1995 - Kelly Slater, USA 1994 - Kelly Slater, USA 1993 - Derek Ho, HAW 1992 - Kelly Slater, USA 1991 - Tom Carroll, AUS 1990 - Tom Carroll, AUS 1989 - Gary Elkerton, AUS 1988 - Rob Page, AUS // Winter 2012–2013

1987 - Tom Carroll, AUS 1986 - Derek Ho, HAW 1985 - Mark Occhilupo, AUS 1984 - Joey Buran, USA 1983 - Dane Kealoha, HAW 1982 - Michael Ho, HAW 1981 - Simon Anderson, AUS 1980 - Mark Richards, AUS 1979 - Larry Blair, AUS 1978 - Larry Blair, AUS 1977 - Rory Russell, HAW 1976 - Rory Russell, HAW

Only in Hawaii

The H2O JetPack is different from anything you have ever encountered before, a true lifetime experience. Imagine literally flying 30’ over the calm waters of Maunalua Bay wearing an apparatus that relies on the pressure of the ocean water, your own sense of balance, and your innate ability to use your reflexes to change direction.

The basics of how the JetPack works

The sleek H2O JetPack pod, a small, unmanned boat that trails the pilot, pumps seawater up a hose into the JetPack. It is then directed downward at tremendous pressure from the control nozzles, propelling the pilot in all directions. Smooth, exhilarating flight becomes a question of balance and subtlety of movement. You can hardly imagine the natural high! Check out the video for yourself at

H2O is offering a discount for Triple Crown of Surfing season

You don’t have to be local to get the $169 Kama‘aina price (usually reserved for Hawai‘i residents). This rate is good for all readers through March 1, 2013. And, if you bring in this magazine, H2O Sports will give you an additional $30 discount.

Reservations: (808) 396-0100 or visit for more info.

H2O Sports, which locals have long known as SeaBreeze Watersports, has been a pioneer in bringing water-based activities, such as parasailing and jet skiing, to the islands since 1986. It has offices and docks at the Hawai‘i Kai Shopping Center, with its major activities platform in the middle of Maunalua Bay. They provide pickup and drop off at your hotel in Waikiki. Winter 2012–2013 //


What is the holding period?

The ASP uses a holding period when scheduling the events. The holding period allows the contest directors to run the heats when surf conditions are at their absolute best. Sometimes conditions are solid at the beginning of the holding period and the contest will run then. Other times the conditions might not be so good at the beginning of the holding period and contest directors will wait it out, hoping for better conditions. The call is usually made by 8 am each day but sometimes they will delay the call until lunchtime to allow conditions to improve. To check surf conditions for all shores, go to For event status, updates and conditions, call 808-596-SURF.

The Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) is the governing body of professional surfing. The ASP World Tour has been crowning surfing world champions since 1976. The mantra of the ASP International is "world's best surfers, world's best waves." Over the last 36 years, the ASP has followed the evolution of surfing and has been on the forefront of international surf events. The ASP sanctions the following tours: the ASP World Tour (consisting of the ASP World Championship Tour Race, the ASP PRIME events and the ASP Star events), the ASP Women’s World Tour, the ASP World Longboard Tour and the ASP World Junior Tour. The ASP is dedicated to showcasing the world’s best surfing talent in a variety of progressive formats and has revolutionized the way the world watches surfing via their webcasts. The organization is divided into seven different regions: Africa, Asia, Australia, Europe, Hawaii, North America, and South America.and conditions, call 808-596-SURF. The ASP Judging Criteria for 2012 and beyond is based on a 0-10 point system. Each competitor's final score is based on the total of their two highest-scored waves.

0.0-1.9: Poor, 2.0-3.9: Fair, 4.0-5.9: Average, 6.0-7.9: Good, 8.0-10.0 Excellent Judges analyze the following major elements when scoring waves for the short board circuit for the ASP World Tour, ASP Women’s World Tour, ASP Star and Prime events and the ASP Pro Junior Series: • Commitment and Degree of Difficulty • Innovative and Progressive Manoeuvres • Combination of Major Manoeuvres • Variety of Manoeuvres • Speed, Power and Flow

48 // Winter 2012–2013


2012 ASP Tour Wrap

photOs: ASP-Kirstin Kelly surfing photo: ASP-carey


The top 34 men compete in 10 events in the ASP World Championship Tour. The final event, event #10 ends every year here on Oahu, Hawaii at the infamous Banzai Pipeline's Billabong Pipe Masters. The 2012 ASP World Tour is shaping up to be a close race to the finish with 4 top surfers on the radar: Joel Parkinson, Kelly Slater, Mick Fanning, and John John Florence. Event #7, the Quiksilver Pro France in South West Coast, France just wrapped up the first week in October in epic conditions at La Graveire. Kelly Slater took first place and won his first Quiksilver Pro France after 20 years of competing in this event. The Rip Curl Pro in Portugal and the O'Neill Coldwater Classic in Santa Cruz, California are the next two stops on the Tour before the

#1 Joel Parkinson (AUS) Joel Parkinson aka "Parko" is a 31 year old Aussie and 3x Vans Triple Crown Champion (2008, 2009, 2010). Parko is known for his smiling face and making a perfect 10 at Pipeline look easy. He has been on the World Tour since 2001 and placed ASP Runner-up four times. Parko has 10 World Title Event Victories.

highly anticipated Pipe Masters. Parkinson, who has never won an ASP World Tour, is currently ranked #1, has proved his strength in the past winning three consecutive Vans Triple Crown Championships. Slater is right on Parko's heels in second place, and everyone is closely watching Slater to see if this will be ASP World Title #12. Slater is picked to win the Tour after winning three events this season (Fiji, Trestles, and France). Fanning will not go unnoticed in third place, but it's Florence who could put a wrench in it all at his home break Pipeline for the finale. We are looking forward to a fierce competition this year at the Pipe Masters for the ASP World Champion as well as for the Vans Triple Crown Title.

#2 Kelly Slater (USA) Record breaker, 11x ASP World Champion, and the most famous surfer on the planet, Kelly Slater seems to be invincible at the "old" age of 40. Kelly’s name belongs with the likes of Michael Jordan, Wayne Gretzky and Jerry Rice when you compare the sheer dominance of a sport. He has been taking names, breaking records and dominating the competitive surfing circuit ever since he entered the World Tour in 1991. Kelly's list of titles and accomplishments are almost too long too list. His win this year at the Hurly Pro marked his 50th ASP World Championship Tour event win. He continues to make winning World Titles look easy and is a role model for the next generation of surfers.

Winter 2012–2013 //





Mick Fanning (AUS)

John John Florence (HAW)

31 year old Australian Mick Fanning is a 2x ASP World Champion (2007 and 2009) and has been giving Kelly Slater fierce competition for the past few years. Mick and Andy Irons are the only two surfers over the past 10 years to stop Slater from being the tour champion. Mick has had an impressive surfing career placing within the top 11 in 10 World Tours and has had 15 World Championship Tour event victories.

20 year old surf prodigy John John Florence was surfing his home break Banzai Pipeline before most kids can ride a bike. The past couple years John John has been shocking the surfing world with his radical wave riding at some of the toughest breaks in the world. Breaking "the youngest records," John John was the youngest surfer ever to compete in the Vans Triple Crown in 2005 at age 13 and the youngest surfer ever to win the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing in 2011 at age 19.

photOs: ASP-Kirstin Joel photo: ASP-Robertson


2011 - Kelly Slater, USA 2010 - Kelly Slater, USA 2009 - Mick Fanning, AUS 2008 - Kelly Slater, USA 2007 - Mick Fanning, AUS 2006 - Kelly Slater, USA 2005 - Kelly Slater, USA 2004 - Andy Irons, HAW 2003 - Andy Irons, HAW 2002 - Andy Irons, HAW 2001 - CJ Hobgood, USA 2000 - Sunny Garcia, HAW

1999 - Mark Occhilupo, AUS 1998 - Kelly Slater, USA 1997 - Kelly Slater, USA 1996 - Kelly Slater, USA 1995 - Kelly Slater, USA 1994 - Kelly Slater, USA 1993 - Derek Ho, HAW 1992 - Kelly Slater, USA 1991 - Damien Hardman, AUS 1990 - Tom Curren, USA 1989 - Martin Potter, GB 1988 - Barton Lynch, AUS

1987 - Damien Hardman, AUS 1986 - Tom Curren, USA 1985 - Tom Curren, USA 1984 - Tom Carroll, HAW 1983 - Tom Carroll, AUS 1982 - Mark Richards, AUS 1981 - Mark Richards, AUS 1980 - Mark Richards, AUS 1979 - Mark Richards, AUS 1978 - Wayne Bartholomew, AUS 1977 - Shaun Thompson, South Africa 1976 - Peter Townend, AUS

with 8 widescreen Tvs, Breakers is North Shore’s favorite spot to catch all the games or just grab some kine ONO’ Grindz after a Epic SurF... 50% off entrees between 5pm to 6pm mon-fri 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy # G120 Haleiwa, HI 96712-1494 50 // Winter 2012–2013

(808) 637-9898 Winter 2012–2013 //


Men’s Current ASP


Women’s Final ASP Rankings

R a nk

N a me

o ta l Country T P o in t s


Joel Parkinson





Kelly Slater





Mick Fanning





John John Florence





Taj Burrow





Adriano De Souza





Owen Wright





Josh Kerr





Gabriel Medina





Jeremy Flores





Stephanie Gilmore





Sally Fitzgibbons





Carissa Moore





Tyler Wright





Courtney Conlogue





Malia Manuel





Lakey Peterson





Laura Enever





Coco Ho




Paige Hareb






2012 Money

2012 ASP Tour Wrap photO: ASP-Cestari photo: sally photo: ASP-Kirstin stephanie photo: ASP-Poullenot


The top 17 women competed this year in the ASP World Championship Tour 7 events starting in February Gold Coast, Qld, Australia and ended in July/August in Huntington Beach California, USA. The final event in the 2012 ASP Women’s World Championship Tour season, the Nike US Open of Surfing in Huntington Beach ended with two Hawaii surfers placing in the top 3. Lakey Peterson (USA) took first place, barely edging out Oahu's favorite Carissa Moore, and the 2012 ASP Women’s Rookie of the Year Malia Manuel from Kauai took third place.


#1 Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 24 year old Australian surfer superstar Stephanie Gilmore has been dominating the women's surf scene for the past few years. She is a five time ASP Women's World Champion, capturing her first world title in 2007. Gilmore has 21 elite World Tour victories, the 2010 Laureus Action Sports Person of the Year Award, and the 2011 ESPN ESPY Female Action Sports Person of the Year Award.

Sally Fitzgibbons (AUS) "The ultimate athlete" describes 22 year old Australian Sally Fitzgibbons, who gave up long distance running at an international level to pursue competitive surfing. Since 2005, Sally has been climbing her way up the ASP ladder and eventually secured her a spot in the ASP World Tour in 2009. For the past 3 years (2012, 2011, 2010), Sally has finished as the World Title Runner-up.

#3 Carissa Moore (HAW) 20 year old Punahou graduate Carissa Moore is Oahu's own surf prodigy, who became the youngest woman ever to win an ASP World Title in 2011. Carissa has had 6 World Title event victories, and this year Carissa placed 3rd in the 2012 ASP final rankings. In the 2011 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, Carissa was the first woman in history to be given wildcard entries into the Reef Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa and the Vans Hawaiian Pro at Sunset Beach where she competed against the best men in the world. Winter 2012–2013 //




photO: Damien Poullenot


2012 - Stephanie Gilmore, AUS 2011 - Carissa Moore, HAW 2010 - Stephanie Gilmore, AUS 2009 - Stephanie Gilmore, AUS 2008 - Stephanie Gilmore, AUS 2007 - Stephanie Gilmore, AUS 2006 - Layne Beachley, AUS 2005 - Chelsea Georgeson, AUS 2004 - Sofia Mulanovich, Peru 2003 - Layne Beachley, AUS 2002 - Layne Beachley, AUS 2001 - Layne Beachley, AUS


2000 - Layne Beachley, AUS 1999 - Layne Beachley, AUS 1998 - Layne Beachley, AUS 1997 - Lisa Anderson, USA 1996 - Lisa Anderson, USA 1995 - Lisa Anderson, USA 1994 - Lisa Anderson, USA 1993 - Paula Menczer, AUS 1992 - Wendy Botha, AUS 1991 - Wendy Botha, AUS 1990 - Pam Burridge, AUS 1989 - Wendy Botha, AUS // Winter 2012–2013

1988 - Freida Zamba, USA 1987 - Wendy Botha, AUS 1986 - Freida Zamba, USA 1985 - Freida Zamba, USA 1984 - Freida Zamba, USA 1983 - Kim Mearig, USA 1982 - Debbie Beacham, USA 1981 - Margo Oberg, HAW 1980 - Margo Oberg, HAW 1979 - Lynne Boyer, HAW 1978 - Lynne Boyer, HAW 1977 - Margo Oberg, HAW

Winter 2012–2013 //



Van’s Spectator Tips


Stand Up Paddle Boards Longboards Funboards Shortboards Custom Boards ✘ Bring food and beverages to the beach. There are no snack or drink stores at any of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing venues. A cooler also makes a good backrest or seat.

✘ Bring your camera.

✘ Pick up your own (and any

✘ Bring a beach chair, towel or

other) trash on the beach. Malama ka ‘aina (take care of the land).

mat to sit own. A sandy bottom gets old real quick.

✘ Be polite and courteous to ✘ Bring a rain jacket, slicker or

✘ Bring sunscreen, a hat, sunglasses and extra sun protection for young children. It’s always possible to get sunburned without adequate protection, especially on the overcast days because the ultraviolet rays are stronger then.

hooded sweatshirt. After all it’s winter and there may be a brief drizzle lurking about.

the local residents. They have to live with events and crowds in their driveways and backyards.

✘ Heed all lifeguards’ warnings. ✘ Pay attention to road signs, warnings and driveways to avoid tickets and towing.

During the winter months, waves can double in size within an hour.

Team Rider Keoni Picollo

✘ Get to the beach early to ✘ Bring binoculars. They add to the experience.

score a good parking spot and avoid traffic.

✘ Stub out your cigarettes in

✘ Let little ones play at the

the sand and leave them there. Better yet, enjoy the fresh Pacific air and respect the rights of athletes and other visitors to clean air. If you must smoke, bring along a butt container.

shoreline. A big wave can easily take your kids out to sea, especially at Pipeline or Sunset.

✘ Bring an umbrella to the beach. Umbrellas prevent other spectators from enjoying the action and become dangerous projectiles when windy.

✘ Park on Kamehameha Highway when watching the Billabong Pipe Masters. You will be towed, fined or both.

✘ Tempt thieves by leaving valuables in your car.

Triple Crown of Surfing. Wait till after their heat for autograph opportunities.

✘ Bring bullhorns, air horns or other noise making devices. Contest officials use these tools to alert competitors and you’re personal noisemaker may interfere with valuable contest information.

✘ Be rude. This is paradise. Let’s enjoy it together.

✘ Bring your pets to the beach.

✘ Harass competitors for

No one likes stepping in doggydoo and there are usually a lot of little children around the beach.

autographs while they’re in the contestant’s area. They’re technically at work at the Vans

56 // Winter 2012–2013

es Surf Wear Board Rentals & Surfing Lessons Surf Gear Accesori


525 Kapahulu Ave. Honolulu, Hawaii 96816

Winter 2012–2013 //


Each year, the World Championship Tour Qualification Process is based on the final rankings of the previous year. The top 22 ranked surfers in the final ASP World Tour rankings make the cut into the following year. Additionally, the top 10 surfers ranked in the final ASP World Rankings (not including surfers qualifying in the Top 22 on the ASP WCT rankings) make the Tour. There are also two ASP wild cards. Do the math and you have 34 surfers on the World Championship Tour.

photO: ASP-Rowland



& STAND UP PADDLE • SUP & Surfboard Rentals •Quiksilver/Roxy Surf Camps •Guided Surf Excursions •SUP Downwind Session •Surf & Stay Packages

(808) 924-7778

2586 Kalakaua Ave Honolulu, Hawaii 96815 (across from the zoo) 58 // Winter 2012–2013

Military & Kamaaina Rates Available for Lessons



The history of surfing is believed to have originated in Western Polynesia over two thousand years ago. The first surfers were fishermen who discovered that riding waves was an efficient method of getting to shore. When the Polynesians first settled in Hawai‘i in the fourth century A.D. surfing began to transform from work use into a cultural past time. The first recorded accounts of recreational surfing in Hawai‘i date back to the late 1700’s. While no one really knows exactly when and where surfing first originated, the significance of surfing can be traced directly back to Hawai‘i. Some people consider surfing a sport, but for ancient Hawaiians, surfing was a religion and a large part of the Hawaiian social culture. Hawaiians believe that the sea has distinct moods and actions. Special Hawaiian priests, called Kahunas, would pray to the sea for the surfers and perform ceremonies for asking for perfect waves. Creating surfboards was also a religious ceremony in Hawaiian culture. Only three types of wood were suitable for crafting traditional surf boards. The largest and heaviest of surfboards were reserved strictly for Hawaiian royalty.

60 // Winter 2012–2013

Surfing didn’t really become popular worldwide until the early to mid 1900’s when Duke Kahanamoku, born August 24, 1890, elevated the art, splendor and skill of surfing to an international level of respect and interest. As a three-time Olympic gold medal swimmer and world-class surfer, Duke succeeded in spreading surfing to the U.S. mainland and Australia. In the 50’s and 60’s, interest in surfing increased and with it, surfing exploded in the U.S., Hawai‘i, and Australia. By the time the 70’s rolled around, surfing was not only a sport but had created its own culture, lifestyle and industry. Today surfing is stronger then ever and wide open to people of all ages, genders, cultures, abilities, and disabilities.


Paddling in after a fun day with the Roxy/ Quiksilver Surf Camp by Hans Hedemann Surf School.

1. Aloha Surf Guide strongly recommends that all beginning surfers hire a professional & experienced surf instructor. It will be more fun and safe– and you are more likely to catch some waves. 2. If you respect others and do not drop in on other surfers, you’ll probably have a good day. A smile and friendly attitude go a long way. When you go, paddle out humble and leave humble. 3. Avoid frustration and fatigue, and save money by starting with the correct board–usually long and sturdy. Your surf instructor and local surf shops can help determine the board best suited for you. 4. Always wear a leash and wax your board well to ensure proper footing. 5. Avoid contacting the ocean floor. You never know what’s down there–rocks, sharp coral, wana (sea urchin) or other ocean life. If you fall off your board, never go in head first. 6. After you have made it to the line up, take a break and gather your energy. Don’t try to take off on the first wave or set. Check ocean conditions and orient yourself to the surf spot. 7. Always maintain control of your own surfboard. If you are losing control while riding a wave, try grabbing the rails firmly near the middle of the board and lower yourself down. Return to sitting position and use your legs to slow you down. Look

for fellow surfers and immediately begin paddling out of the way. 8. Between sets keep yourself and your board pointed out to the ocean, away from the shoreline. Even after you wipe out or are paddling back out, always keep an eye on what might be coming at you. 9. When paddling for a wave, look both ways to check if another surfer is paddling or taking off on the wave. If someone else is in position and is catching it, be respectful and wait for the next one. Don’t drop in! 10. Sometimes other people’s boards and bodies will inadvertently come into contact with yours. Always make sure that the other surfer is OK and apologize if you were wrong. If the other surfer was wrong, forget about it and paddle away. 11. Surf with an experienced friend and make friends in the water. Don’t be afraid to ask questions or to let others know you are just learning. 12. Leave your valuables at home. If you really need your mp3 player and cell phone, be ready to part with them. Vehicles are subject to break-ins in some areas. 13. Many surf spots have an inside break that is suitable for surfing. This is a good place to start since the more experienced surfers are usually outside seeking bigger and nicer waves. Be careful of shallow rock and coral. Winter 2012–2013 //


Surfing 24. Never allow the board to come between you and the wave. The wave can literally throw the board at you. This is a very dangerous situation to be in for yourself and others around you. 25. It’s possible that you will see some wildlife while you are surfing. Don’t touch or interfere. 26. Paddling primarily works the muscles in your back, neck, shoulders, arms, and stomach. If you are not physically ready, you might be too tired to catch a wave by the time you get to the lineup. Get good at paddling before you surf, or if you are traveling, work the proper muscle groups to get ready. 27. “Save your body over your board.” This statement is often misunderstood. Only when all other options have been eliminated do you worry more about your body than your board. 28. Localism is a reality. Many surf spots have been surfed by families for generations, and are in some ways like your own back yard. Surf spots aren’t like basketball courts where you can just build a new one. Be careful where you go. 29. Priority is a consideration but rarely respected, except when you bring in the tow aspect. The chain of priority is as follows: body surf, sponge, shortboard, longboard, SUP, tow. 30. Relax, enjoy and have fun but be safe!



As you build your surfing skills you will need to learn how to duck dive and/or turtle roll. Both maneuvers take practice and can be dangerous for new surfers. The goal is to get yourself and your board as far beneath the wave as possible, allowing the wave to roll over you. Usually the duck dive is performed with a short board and the turtle roll is performed with the longboard. Ask your surf instructor about tips on executing the turtle roll.



14. When someone is on a wave, it’s your job to get out of the way. Definitely don’t paddle across their line. Although it may be easier to go towards the shoulder, you are probably going to cut them off. It is often best to just bite it and paddle into the breaking part of the wave and allow the surfer to enjoy the wave. 15. Practice paddling, sitting on your board and basic control of your surfboard before venturing out to the lineup. The surfer on the right has caught the wave before 16. When paddling out, keep a good distance from the surfer on the left ‘drops in’ on him. the person in front of you. This will help avoid a collision if the other surfer loses control. 17. Always wear a rash guard or shirt. The board and wax can cause irritation to the skin. Also, a shirt will reduce the amount of sunscreen you have to cake on. Special UV protective swimsuits are available. 18. Before paddling out, take some time to stretch and warm up your body. This is a good time to look around and under-stand the conditions. 19. Goofy vs. regular footedness. If you surf with your right foot forward, you are considered ‘goofy.’ And if your left foot is forward you are A near collision as the surfer who dropped in on the ‘regular.’ The leash is attached to the rear ankle. other surfer loses control. Your surf instructor will help determine your footedness. Warning” (25 ft. north shores, 20 ft. west 20. Box jellyfish usually invade south and west shores, 15 ft. south and east shores) is a shoreline waters approximately 9 to 10 days condition where threats to life and property after a full moon, and can vary a couple days are at risk. A wave with an eight-foot face is from that. Observe lunar calendars, look for way too much for any beginner. lifeguard postings and stay out of the water if And even a four-foot face is too much for there are Box. most beginners (non-advisory level). 21. Snorkel on flat days to study the ocean floor. 23. The rise of the tide happens fast and This is the best way to know what is below unsuspecting tourist’s slippers, junky you. inflatable plastic rafts, straw mats and other 22. Be careful when interpreting advisories and stuff get washed out by the ocean. Do the warnings. “High Surf Advisory” (15 ft. north ocean and your pocketbook a favor–pay shores, 12 ft. west shores, and 8 ft. south attention!And stop buying the junky and east shores) is a condition dangerous to inflatable rafts that end up in a landfill or in swimmers and beachgoers and “High Surf the ocean.



62 // Winter 2012–2013

Winter 2012–2013 //


Surfing Long Board

Long Board

Blue Planet, Rasta

Donald Takayama

9’6” x 22 5/8” x 3” Shop: Blue Planet

9’1” x 22 3/8” x 2 7/8” Shop: Surf N Sea

Short Board

The board has changed surfing as we know it, and it rules in men’s and women’s pro surfing. For serious surfers only – ideal for 3’ to 10’ surf.

Long Board The standard beginner’s board and the minimum length is longer than you can reach in the sky. Although used by most beginners, longboards can rip and shred waves by advanced surfers. Good for surf up to 6.’


Long Board

Long Board

Duane Desoto Makaha

Dewey Weber Stylist

9’1” x 22 1/4” x 2 3/4” Shop: Hawaiian Surf Adventure

Fun/Hybrid Continuously evolving shapes that combine the strengths of both short boards and long boards, offering more versatility in many wave conditions. Other variations include the thruster, fish, mini and egg. Ideal surf is 2’ to 6.’

Tow-In Board Tow surfers tow into waves with up to 75’+ faces. Use of jet-ski, tow rope, and other equipment and involved, and teamwork is essential. In Hawaii, certification is required to tow surf. // Winter 2012–2013

9’0”, 23 5/8” x 3 3/8” Shop: Moku

Body Board Great fun for most ages and many wave sizes from little Johnny riding ankle biters at Bellows Beach, to Mark Stuart dropping into a 15’ waves at Pipeline. Try to get some swimfins if you plan to body surf.

Tanker/ Tandem Usually 9’ to 12’ but sometimes smaller. Thick boards, usually too big for beginners. Good for 1’ to 3’ surf. Aka. Log.

Surfing Long Board Joe Bauguess Mini-Simmons

8’0” x 23” x 2 3/4” Shop: Surf Garage

Stand Up Paddle (SUP) With the development and evolution of Stand Up Paddle boards currently underway, designs have made significant changes over the past few years. SUP offers various recreational uses including surfing, big-wave surfing, rivers, open water, racing and a fun way to exercise. Boards are designed to meet each activity’s needs.

GUN Tim Carroll Sunset Beach Special

7’10” x 19 3/4” x 3” Shop: Quality Surfboards Hawaii

Short Board Pyzel, Pinky

Fun Board Ben Aipa, Concave

7’6” x 22” x 2 3/4” Shop: Ala Moana Surfboards

Short Board Channel Islands Fred Rubble

FUN gun Bushman, 5 Fin

7’0” x 21” x 3” Shop: Wave Riding Vehicles

Short Board Vesso Freddy P Pro Model


Short Board

Danny Nicholls

Kahanamoku Sons, Round Pin Machine

6’10” x 20 3/4” x 2 3/4” Shop: Kimo’s Surf Hut

6’4” x 18 3/8” x 2 3/8” Shop: Surfboard Factory Outlet

Short Board

Short Board

Short Board

Firewire Sweet Potato

Firewire Dominator

Channel Islands, Neck Beard

5’10” x 20 1/4” x 2 1/2” Shop: North Shore Surf Shop

5’8” x 19 3/4” x 2 3/8” Shop: Function Surf

Gun Big wave board for anything over 10.’ The board is long and narrow resulting in more speed in big waves.

6’2” x 18 1/2” x 2 3/8” Shop:Quiksilver North Shore Boardriders

6’2” x 19 5/8” x 2 1/2” Shop: Function Surf

6’0” x 18 1/4” x 2 1/4” Shop: Quality Surfboards Hawaii

5’10” x 22 1/2” x 2 7/8” Shop: Surf Garage

Winter 2012–2013 //



SUP Opposite Top: World Champion longboarder Duane Desoto can do it all. Duane runs Na Kama Kai, an oceanbased organization that empowers youth with ocean awareness & safety and cultural & environmental education. Opposite Middle: No boundaries. Opposite Bottom: Candice Appleby is a leading force in women’s surfing.


PHOTO: Endless Adventures

Below: Beach Boy John ‘Pops’ Ah Choy.

66 // Winter 2012–2013

Stand-up paddle (SUP) surfing while barely a decade old has seen significant growth over the past few years. It is amazing that after all these years of ocean activities, there is still room for a sport to grow so quickly. Brian Keaulana, Dave Kalama, Laird Hamilton, Bruce DeSoto and Mel Puu are among the people credited with the recent emergence. The concept of standing on a board (or canoe) and paddling goes back to the ancient Hawaiians where they paddled as a means of transportation. When not in use, the board would remain on the beach while the rider travelled inland on foot. In the 1950’s the Waikiki Beach Boys stood up on their boards during surf lessons to keep a better perspective and to take pictures. Well-known Beach Boy John ‘Pops’ Ah Choy used his signature yellow HECO hard hat to keep personal items inside while navigating the waters. Stop by and ask some of the old-timer Waikiki Beach Boys why Pops wore the hard hat, and you’re sure to hear some great stories. Winter 2012–2013 //




Below right: Laird Hamilton: A world leader in SUP, tow-in and windsurfing – pretty much all things surf. Bottom: Maneuvering the Rapids on the Lower Yough, Youghiogheny, Pennsylvania.

Getting Started

There are a few reasons why the sport has taken off so quickly, and with its rise, the sport is finding its niches. Unlike traditional surfing, SUP is a full body workout with no impact like running - the motion quickly becomes comfortable and natural with some practice. Many people have taken up the sport for this purpose alone – to exercise and travel in a fun and safe manner. SUP races have become very popular with over 50 races already in Hawaii. Check out for a complete SUP race schedule. With this evolution of the sport, SUP has grown on an international level from Lake Tahoe to Australia to Japan to Brazil and now all the way to Michigan. SUP is emerging in white water rivers, lakes, small rivers and open waters worldwide. SUP is changing the way we surf too. The large board and paddle provide a distinct advantage over other surfers trying to catch waves. The SUP surfer can line up further outside and catch the largest and best waves by paddling into a wave at a much greater

speed before the wave has formed. So the guy with the short board sitting inside usually ends up watching the SUP and longboarders gobble up all the waves. Also with SUP, the surfer’s field of vision is far greater than surfers sitting on their boards allowing them to read sets better and find the best position in the water. SUP surfers tend to take advantage of their abilities and hog the waves leading many in the surf community to resist SUP. The large board and paddle also bring additional safety concerns to already crowded surf spots. But stand-up paddle surfing is an evolution of the sport leading to new ways for humans to have fun in the ocean so lets not resist it too hard. On the other hand there are skeptics who believe its merely a fad waiting for its turn to die out – a scenario that is hard to believe.

PHOTO: Endless Adventures


First rule – never paddle out to a surf spot with your new or rented board. You must master the board before attempting this. If you are new to the sport, take a lesson with a reputable surf school or surf shop. It is important to learn the fundamentals first. Many surf clinics are also available on Oahu beaches throughout the year. Here you can test out some boards and talk to industry experts. When you are ready to dig deeper, go online and look up C4 Waterman’s Todd Bradley for great instructional videos, Robert Stehlik of Blue Planet Surf posts detailed information on his Zen Waterman blog, or catch up with Ben Aipa at Ala Moana Surfboards for further industry expertise. If you want to bypass the upfront work and just get out there, that can be safe too if you don’t have your head up your rear. Get some friends, rent some boards and paddle out where there are no

Getting EQUIPPED! If you are ready to buy, rent or take a lesson, best thing you can do is visit your local shop or surf school and they will guide you through the process. Here we will highlight standard products in the industry.

Winter 2012–2013 //


10’ 3” PRO

11’ 2” AVANTI


12’ 6” ACE // Winter 2012–2013

A good surf lesson starts on the beach.

Blue Planet Surf 540 Ward Ave. 808-596-7755

14’ 0” RACE


surfers or swimmers. Stay away from shallow rock and coral and reasonably close to shore, and you’ll be ok. Stay alert and always keep your site and awareness of the horizon. Tell your friends and family your plans and when to expect you back. When you are ready to start making short trips on your SUP board, talk to the experts before attempting this because with the use of a paddle, SUP technically involves a ‘vessel.’ But the Coast Guard states “If a paddleboard is used within a designated swimming, surfing or bathing area, the Coast Guard does not consider it to be a vessel.”



SUP Dennis Pang


Starboard Element

Maori Sunset Swallow

Blue Planet Grom Rock-It,

Futures Gerry Lopez Quad Fin Set

SurfCo Hawaii Paddle Guard

Quickblade Kanaha Elite

SurfCo Hawaii Power Flex

Naish PFD Vest Aipa Single Fin

Quickblade Flyweight All Fiberglass

FCS K3 Dakine Paddle Bag 10’2” x 28 1/4” x 4 1/4” Shop: Wave Riding Vehicles

10’0” x 30” x 1/2” Shop: Surfboard Factory Outlet

9’8” x 30” x 4 5/16” Shop: Kimo’s Surf Hut

8’10” x 28” x 3 3/4” Shop: Diamond Head Surfboards

7’11” x 25” x 3 3/4” Shop: Blue Planet

Island Fin Design SB5

Surftech Jamie Mitchell Navigator Maori Cruiser Round Pin

Boardworks EPX

Ben Aipa Floral

Boardworks Rusty

OAM Board Bag Naish SUP Caddy

Island Fin Design IFC

Futures Racing Fin

Aipa Fin Set

OAM Paddle Cover

Dockslocks Surfboard Secure

10’6” x 31 1/2” x 4 5/8” Shop: Diamond Head Surfboards


10’6”, 31” x 4 3/4” Shop: Moku

11’0” x 31” x 4 3/4” Shop: Ala Moana Surfboards // Winter 2012–2013

11’4” x 31 1/8” x 4 3/8” Shop: Surfvivor

FCS Coil Leash

Xcel Paddle Gloves

14’ x 29” x 6 5/8” Shop: Surf N Sea

Winter 2012–2013 //



Inflatable SUPs

Are you a travelling waterman or space challenged? Inflatable SUPs are lightweight and easy to transport, take up little space, very durable, usually more affordable than the standard SUP, and require little maintenance – making them an excellent alternative to the large SUP board. With the growth of SUP, inflatables are also becoming very popular leading many manufacturers to offer inflatable SUPs. Pictured is the Blue Planet model. When properly inflated the board will hold its rigidity. Although some performance is lost, the inflatable SUP is a great board for beginner to moderate surfers. Many advanced surfers have inflatable SUPs purely because of the convenient travel. Winter 2012–2013 //


PHOTO: Manini Dive Co.

Scuba Diving and Snorkeling The ocean provides an abundance of beauty for all, but go under the surface – even a few inches – and you enter a whole new world of underwater life! Snorkeling allows people a sneak peak of what lies under the ocean’s surface, and SCUBA (Self-Contained Underwater Breather Apparatus) provides the tools to reach to much greater depths and explore dive site locations. In this article, we will introduce you to what you need to know to get started including certification, equipment, health, safety, coral types, reef stewardship, marine life and dive sites. This information is intended to introduce people


Don't freak out, Reef Sharks are common at many dive sites. Leave them be and they will leave you alone also. The sharks in this photo are about three feet long.

74 // Fall 2012

PHOTO: Manini Dive Co.

PHOTO: Jim Russi

to the sport, consult with an Open Water Scuba Instructor when you are ready to get in the water.

Winter 2012–2013 //


PHOTO: Manini Dive Co.


PHOTO: Ocean Legends

PHOTO: Manini Dive Co.

SNORKEL & SCUBA Dive & Snorkel Sites

Here we will highlight only a handful of Oahu’s more popular dive sites, ranging in levels of difficulty. Most companies will pick you up and take you to the beach access or dock and then take a boat or catamaran to the dive site. Sea Tiger – Kewalo Basin, 120 ft. The Sea Tiger, a 190 ft. Chinese fishing vessel was purchased and sunk by Voyager Submarines before they closed. The ship was originally taken from the Chinese by the US Coast Guard because it was being used for smuggling activities. Mahi Wreck – Waianae, 100 ft. The Mahi is a 176 ft. minelayer sunk in 1986. The deck rises 35 ft. off the ocean floor. Nearby you will find Makaha Caverns with caverns, swim throughs and lava tubes. YO-257– Kewalo, 90 ft. A 1940’s oil ship, the YO-257 was sunk in 1989. Nearby is the formerly Koreanowned San Pedro, sunk in 1996, 100 ft. long. WWII Corsair– Koko Head, 110 ft. The F4U Corsair sank in 1946 on a routine flight from Pearl Harbor. It ran out of gas. The Captain made a near-perfect landing in the water, keeping the plane intact and saving his own life. Nearby is China Walls with many underwater caves. Hanauma Bay – Hawaii Kai, 10 to 50 ft. World renowned for excellent snorkeling, Hanauma Bay sees over 800,000 guests annually. The bay was declared a Marine Life Preserve. Turtle Canyon – Waikiki, 35 ft. Great beginner dive with lots of coral heads and marine life.  An eerie descent to the Sea Tiger.  Before it was sank, the Mahi was also a research vessel.  The Corsair propeller is bent because the moorings used to be connected to it. The diver is holding on because the current is pulling at her. Hanauma Bay.

Certification The Open Water

Course is the standard scuba diving certification course, with three elements – knowledge (the books), confined water (the pool) and open water (the real deal). Courses can be taught in 3 to 5 days, or take a part-time course; or take parts of the course at home before you arrive to Hawaii, saving precious vacation time (need an Open Water Referral Form). E-learning courses are available. The Discover SCUBA Diving (DSD) course is available as a starter that gets you in the water 76 // Winter 2012–2013

and requires less class time; and dive depths and instructor ratios are restricted. When you sign up for any class, make sure you know what is included. Certification is important (and required by law) because of the many technical aspects of diving including pressure, depths, equalization, bottom times, decompression, ascent & descent, buoyancy control, breathing, hand signals, decompression, equipment, health concerns, laws of physics, regulator recovery, dive mask clearing and recovery.


The Snorkel, Mask & Fins – A standard

Aqua Lung Flexar Travel Snorkelling Fins

set will get you in the water.

Scubapro Spectra Mini Mask with Mirrored Lens

Wetsuit– Most are made from foamed neoprene containing millions of tiny bubbles. They provide thermal insulation, buoyancy Aqua Lung Impulse 3 and protections from abrasions. Non-Flex Snorkel

Regulator – The regulator is what supplies the breathing air to your mouthpiece from the cylinder. It also reduces the air pressure from the cylinder.

Scubapro MK11C300 Regulator

Scubapro Profile 2.5mm Shorty Wetsuit

Octopus – This is a secondary air source from your own tank. It provides emergency air to another diver if necessary.

Aqua Lung Egress Octopus

Diving Cylinder – A gas cylinder that stores high pressure breathing gas. The cylinder does not contain pure oxygen but rather atmospheric breathing air, or an oxygenenriched air mix.

Mares Weight Belt

Carbon Fiber Tank (Cylinder)

Weight Belt – Weight belts and harnesses offset the buoyancy created by wetsuits and cylinders. Buoyancy Control/Compensator Vest or Device (BCD) – Allows air to be added or released from a bladder so the diver can control buoyancy. Controlling your buoyancy (hovering) is one of the keys of successful diving.

Tusa Conquest Back Inflate Buoyancy Control Device

Instruments – Measure everything – depth, altimeter, compass, GPS, bearing memory, remaining bottom time (RBT), tank pressure, decompression calculations, buoyancy control, heart rate and nitrogen uptake. Various types of gauges and computers are available.

Accessories – Alternate air source, computers, flashlights, knives, gloves, slates etc.

Tusa IQ-850 Sapience II Dive Computer

Surface Marker

Scubapro Dive Slate Tusa TUL-300 LED Flashlight

Aqua Lung 3 mm Aleutian Kevlar Gloves

Winter 2012–2013 //




Health Considerations Generally scuba diving is not considered a dangerous sport as long as you follow industryaccepted safety guidelines, work with a reputable scuba company, listen to your instructor, and are have no major health problems. A Medical Statement from RSTC is required for all scuba participants. If you are travelling to Hawaii, try to complete this form before you arrive because it may need a clearance from your doctor. If you are flying after a dive, talk to your instructor about wait times before flying. If you experience any sickness or changes in health after diving, see a doctor immediately. Various illnesses and injuries, sometimes very serious, even fatal, can occur when scuba diving.

It might be tempting to venture alone, but its best to stick with your buddy at all times.

➊ Most masks can be used for snorkeling and scuba.

➋ ➌

➎ ➏ 78

Tips to make your underwater adventure safe and more enjoyable. Aloha Surf Guide recommends

Snorkeling Gear

A descent line is usually used to take you directly to the dive site.

The Aqua Lung Sphera is a good example. When selecting a mask, look at a few and try them on. If you have a big head, you don’t want a tiny mask obviously. ➋ Dry snorkels are good for beginners or those who don’t want to clear their snorkel. When water gets into the snorkel, it must be pushed out without having to take your mouth above water. A fast and powerful exhale usually forces out any water in the snorkel. The dry snorkel has a valve at the top that helps prevent water entry. The Aqua Lung Impulse Dry Snorkel has the patented Impulse Dry valve. ➌ Snorkeling fins are softer, less rigid and less expensive than scuba fins because scuba divers use better quality fins to compensate for drag and the current, and also conserve energy. Smaller multi-use fins can cross over for use in body surfing or body boarding. The US Diver Shredder fins are popular snorkeling fins that can also be used for body surfing or body boarding. ➍ Aqua Lung makes the Starbuck Snorkel Kits for under $60.00 dollars. The kit includes mask, snorkel, fins and a small carrying bag. We don’t recommend buying a lesser quality product than this market entry product because low-budget snorkel equipment has a short life span. ➎ For the ladies who must have their pink, US Divers makes a complete snorkel set called the Diva set. ➏ If you are new to snorkeling, your ankles and feet can become blistered or irritated from the foot pocket of the fin. Wearing dive socks is recommended if you are just getting started. Sometimes regular socks can work too, but you might be accused of being a redneck. Your snorkel adventure will be longer and more enjoyable with the use of dive socks. Shown here are the Auqa Lung High Tide Socks. // Winter 2012–2013

that all new scuba participants hire the services of an Open Water Scuba Instructor. Check surf and weather conditions before entering the water. Use a buddy system. Snorkel with good friends or trusted locals. Stay one or two arm’s length of your buddy while in the water. Plan ahead and let others know your plans. There are over 20 scuba operators on Oahu. We recommend that you avoid calling around looking for the ‘cheapest’ price or searching the internet for the best coupon offer. Also be aware that a high Google search result doesn’t always result in high quality service. Before you go, know your equipment. Even

Salt water is bad news for your equipment.

a simple snorkel and mask combo seems easy to use, but strapping a rubber device around your face and dropping face first in potentially rough ocean conditions always warrants safety considerations. Avoid buying 2nd hand equipment from Craigslist or other unknown people. Buy all equipment from a shop. Take your time preparing and relax while you are in the water. Don’t panic if a problem occurs. Don’t exceed your own personal limitations or the limitations of your equipment. Learn to swim without using your arms. Know where your fins are and don’t kick up sand. Wash all equipment thoroughly.

DISCOUNT Dive Store For All Your Needs

Ph: 808.922.0852

Rashguards, Wetsuits

Fins, Snorkels & Masks


2255 Kuhio Ave. # 207 2nd Floor Waikiki Trade Center

Underwater Cameras

Dive Computers

Winter 2012–2013 //



SNORKEL & SCUBA Information about coral that you probably don’t know.

damaging effects on coral. Try to reduce the amount you use by wearing wetsuit, rash guard, or t-shirt. Apply sunscreen 30 minutes prior to entering the ocean. Biodegradable sunscreen is available.

Acropora Coral, Acropora cerealis

Antler Coral, Pocillopora eydouxi

Select entry and exit points carefully to avoid reefs, and to provide a safe return. Its best to never touch coral, even when you are walking in shallow water. What may seem like rock is probably living coral. Control and secure your equipment to avoid inadvertent contact with corals. Corals can also be very sharp, easily slicing the human skin. If you sustain an injury from coral, seek immediate medical assistance from a lifeguard or medical doctor to avoid infection. Maintain a comfortable distance from the reef, in all directions, as the ocean currents and surges push and pull you. Mastering your Buoyancy Control is the key. It is tempting to want to put your hand or foot out to stop you from contacting the coral or rock, etc. – and sometimes its inevitable. Learn to move with the ocean currents and don’t fight it, you’ll find yourself in joyous harmony with the marine life! Take nothing from the ocean, and leave nothing behind. If you see some rubbish, grab it and throw it away. 80 // Winter 2012–2013

Never feed the fish, and never touch or get close to marine life. Moorings are embedded in the sea floor and provide a place for boats to tie off, preventing the anchor from damaging the coral. Most dive companies on Oahu use moorings. Avoid purchasing souvenirs made from coral, turtles or other marine life – its often illegal, and it supports businesses that harvest the ocean’s nature for resale. Reduce your use of single-use containers, most notably plastics. Even with good recycling habits, single-use containers eventually enter the watershed and find their way to the ocean, wreaking havoc on the delicate ocean life. Spread the word! Caring for our ocean should be a non-partisan issue. No matter your political affiliation, we should all care about corals and the ocean for future generations.

Hawaii Hotel Reef Stewardship Project CORAL (Coral Reef Alliance) has recently launched a statewide initiative that promotes sustainable tourism and coral reef stewardship in Hawaii by providing access to materials, tools, strategies and other resources hotels can use to improve sustainability and guest awareness. On Oahu, only four hotels have joined this initiative – Halekulani, Hyatt Regency Waikiki Beach Resort and Spa, Sheraton Waikiki Resort and Waikiki Parc Hotel. Over 20 outer-island hotels are currently members. Ask your hotel what they are doing to help protect the coral and educate guests.

PHOTO: Dan Norton

Banded Spiny Lobster, Panulirus marginatus

Flatworm, Pseudoceros zebra Red Pencil Urchin, Heterocentrotus mamillatus

Sea Turtle, Chelonia mydas

PHOTO: Dan Norton

How to help coral survive for generations. Sunscreen is proving to have

Wire Coral, Cirrhipathes anguina

PHOTO: Manini Dive Co.

Corals are beautiful living animals that eat, grow and reproduce. Corals are divided into two major groups – the Hydrozoa and the Anthozoa. The Zoantharia (a member of Anthozoa) corals include nearly all of the reef-building corals. There are many species of corals and variations within species. Hawaii is home to approximately eighty percent of the coral reefs found in U.S. waters. Nearly one-quarter of its fish species, reefbuilding corals, and reef invertebrates are endemic. Hawaii’s reefs are home for over 7,000 species of marine plants and animals.

Spotted Eagle Ray, Aetobatus narinari

Fall 2012 //




Rebreather A rebreather is a closed circuit breathing apparatus that absorbs the carbon dioxide from exhaled breath to permit the rebreathing, or recycling, of the unused oxygen of each breath. Fresh oxygen is added to replenish the amount metabolized by the user. This differs from open-circuit breathing apparatus where the exhaled air is released as bubbles into the water. Rebreather takes diving to an entirely new level by allowing deeper dives and longer bottom times and is used by the military, submarines, hospitals, movie sets, deep explorations and mountain climbing. Ocean Legends on Sand Island Access Road is the only dive company on Oahu offering rebreather training and services.

82 // Winter 2012–2013

Fall 2012 //



! ! d e p p i Get D

Do you want to be higher than the tallest roller coaster in the world? One minute you are chilling on the beach in Waikiki, next thing you know, you’re 500 feet up in the sky! Parasailing, a breathtaking experience, allows the passenger to glide through the skies like never before, while enjoying the peace and serenity of Hawaii. With a birds-eye view of the ocean, it is common to see dolphins, sea turtles and humpback whales. Experiencing a view of ocean life and the astonishing panoramic views will bring you to a whole new level of discovering Hawaii. Parasailing’s roots go back to Viet Nam, when our brave soldiers pulled parachutes with Army jeeps. This was a rocky beginning to parasailing. Realizing that water was nicer to land in than dirt and trees, people started parasailing from boats and platforms in the water. The chute has also evolved as they are now vented – allowing more control with changing winds. Winch boat parasailing can be done in groups up to three people, depending on the wind conditions and the weight of the persons flying. Most providers also enforce a minimum age requirement and advise children under a certain age to ride with a parent. Before starting your adventure, be sure to know what to expect in every step. Take-off and landing takes place on the boat deck, out on the ocean. The participant will be strapped into a harness, which is attached to the parachute and will then be pulled by a towrope. The deck is constructed in a way to safely winch the passenger skywards and back to the boat, without ever getting wet! But empty your pockets and wear swimwear!


JUST ASK Once the wind blows into the chute, the riders are slowly reeled out from the back of the boat. The amount of line that is fed out is controlled by the boat captain. As the ride ends, the winch slowly pulls the riders back to the boat deck.

SAfety & TIPS Firstly, never

parasail during rain, fog, extreme wind or an approaching storm. Always check the weather before starting your ride. Operators should provide a pre-flight briefing and go through the procedures for take-off, flight, landing and evacuation. There are strict licensing and permitting requirements to operate parasailing in Hawaii. It is also required that all parasailing boat captains are licensed by

the United Stated Coast Guard. All participants should wear a life vest (PFD/Personal Flotation Device). Finally, always read and understand the release and consent forms provided before signing. Make sure to know exactly what to expect, and if you have any questions, never hesitate to ask. For your comfort make sure to wear a t-shirt. Bringing your own camera is a risk, and operators will provide nice pics on a CD or SIMcard for a small fee. Enjoy the ride!

Just look for the booth with the Jet-ski on top!

The winch is the device that allows the captain to control the length of the rope.


We are conveniently located at the Kewalo Basin Harbor, across from Ward Shopping Center. The drive is less than 10 minutes from Waikiki. If you plan on driving, metered parking is very close by. Or park at Ward Centers and do some shopping and dining after parasail. You can usually take friends and family on the boat to enjoy the ride and scenery.

That’s high! park here BOARD here Ask about your free ride in our old school trolley

In Hawaii, the winch boat parasailing method is used - and is considered by most industry experts the safest. Riders are strapped into a harness that is connected to the winch on the boat, and the chute.

84 // Winter 2012–2013

Or get a free ride in our sweet 2012 Mercedes 12-seater.

Ask our friendly staff about Jetskis, Honolulu Screamer and Chartered Fishing tours. We also have full-time Japanese speaking staff.

Fall 2012 //




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 Specs 1,420 Horsepower TwinCaterpillar Diesel Engines


Twin Water-jet Propulsion System 1,000 Gallons of Water Propelled per Second Top Speed: 50 mph. Year Christened: 2006 Construction Costs: Over $1 Million Construction Time: 2 Years


20 Speaker High-Quality Audio System // Winter 2012–2013

CAN YOU HANDLE THIS ANGRY SEA MONSTER? The engines are what separate the Screamer from other boats, and are the key to the ride’s popularity. Unlike traditional propeller-driven watercraft that use rudders to steer the vessel, the Screamer’s jets are able to immediately redirect the water from the engines over a 90 degree arc to quickly change the boat’s direction. Add to this the vessel’s flat bottom and the boat is able to pull off high-energy fishtails and donuts. The captain will take a short break midride to allow photographs and to change seats, making sure no one goes home dry. If you have the time, you can get some nice glimpses of Waikiki Beach, Ala Moana Beach Park and Diamond Head. You might even get to see some sea turtles, dolphins or humpback whales if you are lucky.

Safety & Tips All riders

must be minimum height of 40” to ride and must sit in their own seat. Life vests are provided for everyone’s safety. Like most extreme sports, there is a safety briefing, a short medical questionnaire and release form for all riders. You might want to leave your hat and glasses at the hotel or in your car. You can bring your keys and camera as the captain has a dry box so only the passengers get drenched.


The Honolulu Screamer is located at Kewalo Basin (across from Ward Center), just 5~10 minutes from Waikiki, less than three miles. Parking is available or you can ask for a free ride to and from Waikiki. Please call for schedule information and to get a seat as it often times sells out. Fall 2012 //



SAFETY Ocean Safety

Other Tips to Keep you Safe

If you plan on jumping in the ocean,

 Drink plenty of water and don’t mix alcohol consumption with ocean activities.

keep safety at the top of your checklist. Ensuring that you return home healthy

Wear good sunscreen and use a rash guard or other clothing to protect from the sun.

and happy is worth a little extra thought. The best start for any ocean-goer is to

Check the complete weather forecast before entering the ocean.

talk to the lifeguards and only go where there are lifeguards.


ollow all safety signs posted by lifeguards. The most common signs are: • High Surf – Big waves = stay out of the water. • Waves Break on Ledge – Strong waves can suddenly wash you off rocks or piers. If the area is wet, definitely stay off! • Dangerous Shore Break – Waves breaking directly on the shore cause danger for people both in and out of the water. If there is a heavy shore break, stay away! • Strong Current – Ocean water moves very uickly, and it will take you with it! Beaches have their own current patterns. The feeling of being swept out is scary and unnatural - but don’t fight it. Focus on your breathing, conserving energy and staying afloat. Try to swim parallel to the

Don’t always trust the recommendations by other visitors. What is fun for one might not be suitable for another, especially with how ocean conditions can change so dramatically so quickly.

shore, out of the current, and then towards shore. If in need, calmly wave for help. • Sharp Coral – Coral is very sharp, strong and unforgiving. It’s best to never touch coral. If you experience coral-related injuries, see the lifeguards. • Sudden Drop-off – Holes, shelves and drop-off points create dangerous conditions. Stay close to the shore and with groups. • Slippery Rocks – Shore rock is often naturally very slippery. • Man-o-war & Jellyfish – Lots of pain and sometimes serious reactions occur. Stay out of the water if you see signs. If you think you have come into contact with a Man-o-war or jellyfish, see the lifeguards.

Don’t trust just any person willing to hand you ocean gear for some cash. Know where you are going, and ask if there are lifeguards. Never leave children unattended near the ocean. Use extra caution when snorkeling. Know where you are going, have a plan and don’t get adventurous. Become comfortable with your gear before getting in the water. Avoid breaking waves and shallow rocks & coral. If you see someone in need, do whatever it takes to raise the attention of the lifeguards and others before attempting a rescue. By trying to help others in danger, you are putting yourself at risk. Allow trained professionals to attend to emergencies. If faced with an incident, use your best judgment.

S·O·A·K Lifeguards and warning signs aren’t your only lines of defense. Personal readiness and awareness are your other key companions. A good way to improve your readiness is by understanding the acronym “SOAK.”


tudy the area – Stand on the beach or high point and look all around you. Know where you are entering the ocean, and have two or three exit points planned. As conditions and tides change, where you entered may no longer be safe to exit.

bserve ocean conditions for at least 30 minutes – this is a good time to stretch O and relax. Watch the waves for a while to see how big the sets are. Try to under- stand the currents and channels.


sk questions – Ask the lifeguards and other local swimmers & surfers about conditions.


tions past your abilities. Strong athletic skills don’t always carry over to ocean sports. If you can’t swim, don’t rely on a raft or other floating device to keep you afloat, and don’t float past your own abilities to get back to shore. If you can’t swim, stay at the hotel pool, in the shallow end. 88 // Winter 2012–2013


now your limits – Don’t put yourself and others in danger by going out in condi-

Experienced surfers and swimmers make riding big waves and maneuvering through the ocean look easy. Don’t be fooled. If not controlled properly, your surfboard can cause injuries to both you and other victims around. Nose guards, tail guards and soft fins are highly recommended. ‘Soft’ surfboards are available. If you can, go with an experienced person, and never go alone. Most surf spots are dangerous for beginners. Ask your instructor or the lifeguards about surfing conditions and what surf breaks are best for beginners. Ocean conditions change quickly - potentially resulting in a very dangerous situation. Swim or surf only where there are lifeguards. Just because there are lifeguards, it doesn’t mean it is safe to go out. And just because there are no signs posted, it doesn’t mean you are ready to go in the ocean. If you are the only person surfing a certain area, it is probably unsafe for surfing. When in doubt, don’t go out! This is a motto to live by.


SAFETY local scale (Hawaiian size)

Wave heights are generally measured two ways, face scale and Hawaiian scale. In scientific terms and most used by the surfing community around the world, the wave height is measured vertically from the trough to the crest and is known by surfers as face scale. In Hawaii, local surfers use the back of the wave to measure wave height and is called Hawaiian scale or local scale. The history of Hawaiian scale and the conversion itself are widely discussed and debated. The conversion from face to Hawaiian is roughly 1/2 to 2/3 the size measured from trough to crest. There are many factors that distort this conversion and social distortion and perception are probably the biggest. For example, some surfers tend to brag up the size of the wave like exaggerating fishermen. Some hardcore surfers purposefully understate size. The reason for this is uncertain as some say it’s a reverse cool factor of making big wave surfing seem easy. Many people have no idea what


Wave Sizes

face scale

Wave Length (L)

Wave Height


What Causes Waves

Still Water Level Trough

size the waves are and they just throw a number out there. Other factors that affect the conversion of face and local wave sizes are the size of the swell, which surf break is being measured, the methods of measurement, local winds, currents and tides. A simple solution used by many surfers to communicate wave height is to relate the wave size to the human body. Flat, knee high, waist high, shoulder high, head high, overhead, double overhead, triple overhead are used rather than numeric sizes. But you still can’t please everyone, some will argue it depends on the height of the surfer.

Waves around Hawaii shorelines are caused by storms thousands of miles away – at least the waves that surfers want. Local storm-driven surf is usually too windy and choppy. Far away storms such as hurricanes, cyclones and polar lows create winds that result in waves that travel very long distances. Three factors of the wind hitting the ocean water during these storms affect the swell - fetch, velocity and duration. When winds (velocity) blow for a period of time (duration), over an area (fetch), a ripple affect is started. This ripple affect is similar to throwing a rock into water. The ripple is a transfer of energy that when unobstructed can

travel thousands of miles. When the water’s energy hits shallow rock or coral, a sandbar or a river mouth, the energy is transformed into a breaking wave. When the ocean energy encounters a shallow land mass and local conditions, the wave shows its true form. Local conditions include winds, tide, currents, storms, ocean floor topography and shoreline configuration. Local high winds will ruin most good swells. And local storms usually result in a lot of land run-off dirtying the water.

Wave Anatomy

A waist to shoulder high wave for this young but experienced girl competing at the Menehune contest.

spray over the falls




curl hook shoulder face/wall


barrel (inside)

trough white wash/soup Winter 2012–2013 //


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Gift Guide Joe Green Hand Made Ukulele, Surf N Sea Kimo’s Logo Wear, Kimo’s Surf Hut

Keep the Country Country Logo Wear, Moku Hawaii

Waikiki Surf Club Shirt, Malibu Shirts

Endless Summer Mini-Surfboard Wall Hanger, Ala Moana Surfboards Heather Brown Art, Surf Garage Altered Bionic Wheels, Blue Planet Surf

Suunto D4i Dive Computer, South Sea Aquatics Bruce "B-Man" Workman „Single Fin Longboard ‚Tri Fin Shortboard Gold Fish Hood and Lanikai Pendants, Windward Jewelers Coconut Shrimp Plate, Grass Skirt Grill

Surfboard Factory Outlet Fin Set

Fresh Produce, Haleiwa Farmer’s Market



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Aloha surf guide  

The Official Surf Guide of Hawaii. Every thing a new surfer needs to know about surfing in Hawaii. Read this magazine and have a better ti...

Aloha surf guide  

The Official Surf Guide of Hawaii. Every thing a new surfer needs to know about surfing in Hawaii. Read this magazine and have a better ti...