LOCAVORE
TITLE OF SECTION
MILWAUKEE
IF THEY PLANT I T, W E W I L L E AT
S W E E T WAT E R ORGANICS
E AT LOCAL 1
M I LWAU K E E
THE GOOD LAND
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CONTENTS M I A D B R I D G E | L O C AV O R E
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IF THEY PLANT IT, WE WILL EAT
SWEETWATER ORGANICS
Heather Ray
Ana Stephens
Milwaukee chefs change the way we read our menus.
MIAD students help the community while getting their hands dirty.
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LETTER TO THE EDITOR
05 |
HEALTH
08 |
FEATURE
13 |
RECIPE
15 |
FEATURE
23 |
SPOTLIGHT
25 |
FEATURE
31 |
CONTRIBUTERS
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25 EAT LOCAL
Heather Ronaldson
Thanks to chefs, the Farm-to-Table movement blossoms in Milwaukee.
Alison Galarza
Benefits of Farm-to-Table Eating
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If They Plant it, We Will Eat Lemon & Rosemary Salmon
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Sweetwater Organics
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Braise & Chef Dave Swanson
Eat Local
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Locavore 2
EDITOR’S LETTER by Alison Galarza
Milwaukee is often an under-appreciated city, judged by those who barely skim its surface. Outsiders may see it as a third-tier city living in the shadow of Chicago; desperately trying to revitalize and unite it’s neighborhoods. What was once a booming industrial-based city now lays stagnant with vacant buildings along a murky river.
I believe those people are very wrong, and that dismissing our city is a mistake. Milwaukee is not a hidden gem. One does not have to dig deep to discover the beauty and energy within. Every morning, I drive past the shimmering Lake Michigan. Every morning for a few seconds, I am reminded of how blessed I am to live near such a beautiful body of water. One which many of us have taken for granted. Lake Michigan has been the provider of life in the region since it’s creation. It provides for Wisconsin’s agricultural industry, which is what we are now recognized for.
The land and water are what we must give thanks to for the ability to provide fresh produce and healthy livestock. We are fortunate to be able to reap the harvest that Wisconsin provides- so why don’t more businesses feature local farms? We couldn’t be in a more ideal location to adopt the farm to table lifestyle, yet it’s not as utilized as it should be. “Organic” and “locally grown” shouldn’t be a sales pitch here, it should be the standard.
This month’s edition of Bridge will showcase Milwaukee’s farmto-table movement. It is important to recognize the shakers and movers who truly recognize the gift that our state has, and shares it with their customers. We should all be people who eat good, locally grown food. We should all be Locavores.
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RECIPE
LEMON & ROSEMARY SALMON DIRECTIONS
INGREDIENTS
This is a perfect dinner-for-two recipe on busy nights. Begin by preheating the oven to 425 and prepare an oiled baking sheet. Season the salmon filets by drizzling olive oil, salt, pepper, and just a dash of garlic powder.
1 lb salmon fillet
Slice the lemons and onions- lay them across the fillets along with the rosemary sprigs. They key to cooking salmon is simplicity, only season to compliment the fish’s natural flavor. Cover the sheet in foil, and bake for about eight minutes, or until the fillets have flakey consistency. Squeeze a dash of lemon juice on the fillets, and they are ready to be served. Serve with asparagus, roasted potatoes, or on a bed of fresh greens.
Olive oil 2 lemons 1 White onion Fresh Rosemary sprigs Garlic powder Salt & Pepper
BUY LOCAL Support local businesses and enjoy quality food by purchasing ingredients from local vendors. For this recipe, salmon from the St. Paul Fish Company (located in Milwaukee), is suggested.
RECIPE & PHOTOGRAPHY by ALISON GALARZA
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RECIPE
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TITLE OF SECTION
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M I LWA U K E E C H E F S & F A R M E R S
IF THEY PLANT IT,
WE WILL EAT
Milwaukee chefs & farmers change the way we read menus
Do you know
of her dreams- a deep freezer. “Now
where your dinner came from? Diners
I can get my meat,” Tornio said. Late
who order the New York Strip Fajitas
last summer, she made the 20 mile trip
at Café Corazon in Riverwest do. The
from her Greenfield home to MoonShine
beef comes straight from the owner’s
Acres in Mukwonago, where she picked
family farm in Waupun, Wisconsin. In
up a quarter steer and half a Berkshire
Bay View, the Burger at HoneyPie is
pig. “It’s not any cheaper than what
made with Wisconsin grass-fed beef and
you would find in the supermarket, but
a sunny side egg from Yuppie Hill Farms
I know the animals are raised naturally
in Burlington. Even a salad at Palomino
without hormones or antibiotics, and
Bar is piled high with local greens from
good meat like that is hard to find,” she
Milwaukee’s Growing Power. How do
said. “Plus, I get to tell them how much
customers know? It’s up there on the
bacon I want.” It’s safe to say the Tornios
blackboard. Farm-to-table, whether
do a lot of home cooking, but that’s
you’re tired of the phrase or not, is
not to say they don’t take advantage of
gaining momentum in Milwaukee, and
Milwaukee’s broad-based culinary scene.
it’s just as much of a marketing tool these
When they do, knowing where their food
days as it is a philosophy. It’s redefining
comes from makes a difference.
the way we eat, the way we shop, the W R I T T E N b y H E AT H E R R AY
I L L U S T R AT I O N S b y S E N N E S S A S O U K K A S E R M
It’s 5 o’clock.
way we read a menu. But what does it
The Tornios aren’t alone. The quest
mean? In the restaurant world, it simply
to eat more locally-grown produce
means the chef can tell you what farm
and sustainable-raised meat is gaining
the carrots in your soup came from. But
popularity. Between 2002 and 2007
who’s asking? Folks like Stacy Tornio,
local food and farmers markets were
that’s who. The 33-year-old wife and
among the fastest-growing segments of
working mother of two was overjoyed
agriculture in the United States, according
when she finally got the kitchen appliance
to the latest Census of Agriculture, with 8
M I LWA U K E E C H E F S & F A R M E R S
sales rising by nearly 50 percent. By
says over the phone as he begins
in Brewer’s Hill. With the help
2012, a mere 10 states accounted
to boil water for his 11-year-old
of numerous Roots’ employees,
for more than half of the country’s
daughter’s spaghetti dinner. “I’m not
including Executive Chef Dan Jacobs,
nearly $7 billion local food sales- and
interested in recipes, though. When
Gruenwald opened Wolf Peach, a
Wisconsin ranked No. 8.
I read about food, I want to know
communal-style dining experience
ALL IN T H E ROOTS
its history, its origin, where it comes
that carries on the spirit of sourcing
It was during
from.” At Roots, it wasn’t enough
from local artisans and farms.
this early surge
to be just another farm-to-table.
of farmers
“Seed-to-plate is what I like to call
Today, Wolf Peach joins a prosperous
market frenzy
it. We were planting, growing and
collection of farm-to-fork restaurants,
that aspiring
harvesting what we were plating.
a sign that Farmer Joe Schmidt
restaurateur Chef
That was such a beautiful thing,” says
and Chef John Raymond did what
John Raymond
Chef John, speaking about Roots in
they set out to do, planting a seed-
seized the
the past tense. It’s been almost two
to-plate concept that Milwaukee
opportunity to fulfill his decade-long
years since he stepped away from “his
diners would continue to sustain. La
dream. Inspired by the pioneering
baby,” turning it over to developer
Merenda in Walker’s Point (2007),
efforts of Alice Waters’ Berkeley, CA
Tim Dixon in what he calls a mutual
Meritage in Washington Heights
farm-to-table restaurant (founded in
transition. After a couple dozen years
(2007), and HoneyPie (2009) and
1971) Chez Panisse,
in the restaurant business, it was
Odd Duck (2012) in Bay View market
Chef John teamed up with farmer
time… “These are the days I want to
to customers with “inspired by local
and friend Joe Schmidt in 2005 to
spend with my daughter,” and late
ingredients”-style descriptives
open Milwaukee’s first chef/farmer-
nights in a restaurant, coupled with
while packing tables.
owned restaurant- Roots.
the hardships of farming, leave
“The goal was to produce as much
little time for that. Within weeks
While Roots was introducing
as we could with our own hands,”
of the restaurant’s closing, Dixon
Milwaukee diners to the farmer-chef
says Chef John. “It’s how I grew up,
recruited the former bookkeeper
model, another aspiring restaurateur
and I have such an intense passion
at Roots, Gina Gruenwald, to
was busy building an infrastructure
for food and respect for the land.
open a new restaurant in the same
that would soon offer multiple chef-
I could talk about it for hours,” he
space perched on Hubbard St.
owned restaurants convenient access
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M I LWA U K E E C H E F S & F A R M E R S
B U ILDIN G T H E S U P P ORT N ET WO R K :
is based loosely on a CSA, or
place for another farm to fill the order.
Community Supported Agriculture,
That’s part of the thinking behind
which allows members to buy a share
the RSA. It’s a network of farms with
from a farm in exchange for weekly
diversified offerings marketing to an
or biweekly crops. But unlike a CSA
ensemble of Milwaukee chef-owned
THE RS A M O D E L
that typically relies on produce from
restaurants. To get the program up
a single farm, chefs who buy into
and running, Swanson met with
Swanson’s Braise RSA enter into an
willing chef participants to gauge
to locally sourced food- minus the
alliance of Wisconsin farms. Swanson
their needs for the season. From
travails of growing it on their own.
recognized early on that there was
there, he was able to match chefs with
In 2008, the Buy Local, Buy Wisconsin
no easy way for restaurants to source
the best possible growers, drawing
(BLBW) grant launched as part of
locally without a considerable amount
from the nearly 40 intimate farmer
Governor Jim Doyle’s budget with an
of work. Researching farms, arranging
relationships he built while working
initial $225,000 to propel local food
deliveries, and adapting the menu
with various restaurants and through
sales. Among the recipients was Chef
based on supply are all added hurdles-
his cooking school. During the winter
Dave Swanson, who at the time was
and added costs.
months, he met with each farm
four years into his traveling cooking
individually to place the restaurants’
school business (now called Braise
“Farmers don’t always have time
orders before planting season.
Culinary School), a venture that
for all those deliveries, either,” he
Payments were made to the farmers
took participants out into the fields,
adds. Not to mention the great deal
upfront to help them avoid short-term
orchards and forests for a hands-on
of planning that goes into servicing
loans with higher interest rates and
course that literally “connected people
a restaurant with specific crops and
improve their preseason cash flow.
to their food,” a familiar motto for
meats. And what about farms that are
anyone who knows Chef Dave.
at capacity? They might not be able to
By the end of its first season, the
afford the extra labor for growth, but
RSA was a win-win-win for not
The BLBW was just the funding
… perhaps they could benefit from
only restaurants and farms, but for
Swanson needed to launch his next
a market for end-of-season surplus.
the consumers. Members like Chef
big idea: a Restaurant Supported
Also, if crops from one farm are
Jan Kelly at Meritage can keep the
Agriculture (RSA). The concept
damaged, relationships are already in
emphasis of her blended, seasonal
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M I LWA U K E E C H E F S & F A R M E R S
Raymond is keeping his hands in
where I love to be.” And the farmers
FRO M T H E G RO U N D… UP T H E CORPORATE LADDER
can spend more time on the farm. “It
produce and created a market for
The company provides café and
means fewer phone calls and a one-
90 unique products, according to the
catering services to corporations and
stop delivery for us,” says April Yuds
BLBW 2008/2009 Annual Impact
universities in more than 30 states,
at LotFotL Community Farm, one of
Report. The model has been so
including Wisconsin, where it services
the Braise RSA farms in Elkhorn, WI.
successful that schools and other
thousands of employees at the Kohl’s
“Sometimes we have to settle for a
organizations with similar interests
corporate campuses in Menomonee
lower price, but now we have a market
have turned to Swanson for guidance.
Falls. They source ingredients for
for veggie seconds and some of the
“I think it’s great that colleges and
their seven cafes with seasonal menus
harder-to-sell, more unusual items.”
other institutions from around the
from small, owner-operated farms
menu on local ingredients. “It’s a way for us to get back to serving real food,” Kelly says. “And it makes my life as a chef a lot easier. I love to talk to farmers; I have such respect for what they do, but boy it’s a lot of work to visit and research farms. The RSA does the homework for me so I can spend more time in the kitchen,
the dirt while lending his culinary talents to Bon Appetit. But if you’re thinking about the foodie magazine, guess again. Although Roots was once recognized by the esteemed culinary publication, here we’re referring to Bon Appétit Management Company (BAMCO), a refreshing farm-to-fork venture in the food service world.
country are recognizing what we’re
and ranches from within a 150-mile
The added support from area chefs
doing, but it’s difficult for me to help.
radius. “Essentially, I’m a forager,”
to farms like LotFotL (which stands
This is a model specific to us,” he
says Chef John. “I seek out the best
for Living Off the Fat of the Land)
says. “What works in Wisconsin might
producers in the region.”
goes beyond dollars. “As farmers, we
not be the best approach for an area
work crazy hours,” says Yuds. “But I
like, say, Texas.” The RSA dynamics- a
In 2011, Bon Appétit Co. arrived at
try not to keep track. If I do, I realize
collaborative effort with sustainability
their desired milestone in the Farm
some days I’m working for something
and sharing at its core- have bound
to Fork program, reaching 1,000
around $1.50 an hour. But I’m not
Swanson and the member chefs into
contracts with small farmers, fishers
expecting my wage to come in the
a tight-knit group who have learned
and food artisans from around the
form of a paycheck. It’s the lifestyle
to overcome the challenges that come
country- a target hit thanks to the
that comes with it that makes farming
with farm-to-table service. “We might
company’s decision to hire designated
the most rewarding and enriching job
get in a whole steer and break it down
foragers. But if you ask Chef John
I have ever done.”
so that HoneyPie and Comet get the
if he misses the restaurant business,
cuts they need, or Jan at Meritage
he’ll tell you, “Yes… No… Maybe
Today, the RSA program that started
might be looking for something
some days I do. I mean, it’s a different
with a couple dozen farms and a
in particular,” he says. “We’re not
lifestyle with a lot of late nights. For
handful of area restaurants-now
worried about competition among us.
now, I’m enjoying spending the extra
including Swanson’s very own Braise,
If you give10 chefs a carrot and tell
time with my daughter.” And being in
which opened in Walker’s Point in
them to create something, you’re
a position to bring from-the-ground
2012-currently includes more than
going to get 10 very different dishes.”
ingredients to the masses?
400 farms and 20-plus chefs. In its
“Well, that’s kind of amazing too”.
first year, the RSA generated nearly
Since closing the doors to Roots in
$110,000 in new sales of local farm
2012, former owner and chef John
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M I LWA U K E E C H E F S & F A R M E R S
Well, that’s kind of amazing, too.
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H E A LT H
WRITTEN by THE SAN FRANCISCO TRIBUNE
1
Local food is often more nutritious. Because it’s not shipped long distances, locally grown food is often tasty and healthy. Food that’s shipped is
local food better for your health, it’s also better
for the environment. For instance, the average 18-wheeled
often resilient to travel, according to the Leopold Center
semi-truck travels about 5 miles per gallon of gas. That
for Sustainable Agriculture. A study of 16 popular fruits
means about 500 gallons of diesel fuel is needed to haul
and vegetables showed the average was transferred
produce an average distance of 1,500 miles.
nearly 1,500 miles before being sold. In addition, 39 percent of fruit and 12 percent of veggies were imported from outside the United States. To keep food from going bad during travel, some fruits and veggies are picked before they are able to completely ripen and absorb nutrients. While this allows produce to ripen en route so consumers have access to fresh foods year-round, the U.S. Department of Agriculture says this mean foods often lack nutrients that would be there if allowed to ripen before being picked and shipped.
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Local food is better for the earth. Not only is
3
The local economy also benefits when consumers buy their food locally. Because a large volume of produce is shipped upward of 1,500 miles before
reaching the consumer, the local areas where the food was grown and raised don’t always benefit from the sale of the food. On the other hand, buying food locally can improve the economic vitality of small, local farms.
4
Farm-to-table eating offers diners a wide variety of choices when it comes to food. Farm-totable offerings include any type of whole food
imaginable, just as long as it’s in season. This not only means fresh fruit and vegetables, but also meat, cheese and other dairy products, nuts and even baked items.
5
The concept of farm-to-table is not only being adopted by restaurants, but the idea is also being instilled in younger generations. Farm-to-school
or farm-to-cafeteria movements are growing nationwide. This helps support small- to- mid-size local farms by giving them regular business, and in return, students get healthy locally grown food. Many schools also offer nutrition education that aims to teach kids where food comes from and to be healthy eaters.
H E A LT H
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TITLE OF SECTION
PHOTOGRAPHY by ALISON GALARZA WRITTEN by ANA STEPHENS
his semester I volunteered
Coming into work, seeing what
43 hours at Sweet Water
had to be done such as painting
Organics in the neighborhood
a work space, or making a sign
of Bay View. My responsibilities
and physically doing it, left me
there included maintaining the
with a sense of gratification when
general store helping out with
seeing the result of our efforts
things like merchandising, stock
put in. Sweet Water as a whole
and working with customers. I
reflects a philosophy of creating
enjoyed these tasks because they
“transformative change� through
enabled me to work with people, to
sustainable tools, and resources,
educate visitors coming on tours,
which benefit the community. Their
as well as an avenue to apply my
alternative ways of urban farming
artistic interests. My supervisors,
provide an infinite amount of
Toni Johns and Margaret Muza,
education and job opportunities
were two very enthusiastic
within their headquarters. What
individuals who made the work
makes their on-goings unique is
environment exciting and fun.
that it is a collaborative effort in every sense of the word. Fish
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We were constantly brainstorming
farming, planting, harvesting and
creative projects to do and
teaching all take place under the
through our collective dedication,
same roof. Activities and classes
we accomplished many of them.
are offered yearlong throughout
TITLE OF SECTION
the Sweet Water complex.
and nearly all tasks given at the
Because it is completely run off
foundation involve making it
of volunteers, they are always
happen and working with others.
bringing people in for tours,
and interdisciplinary educational
seeking new help and trying to
programming for sustainability
get the word out. Whether you
with a focus on the potential of
are interested in composting,
urban agriculture and aquaculture
the science of hydroponics or
in the 21st century setting.� What
the art of merchandising there
is commendable about this is how
are jobs/volunteer opportunities
they have addressed important
available for nearly everyone.
issues relating to the community
What is particularly great about
(nutrition, agriculture, sustainable
the activities that go on there
methods in urban farming) and
are how hands-on they are.
they have proceeded to give back,
Learning is doing at Sweet Water
through the opportunities they
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S W E E T WAT E R O R G A N I C S
offer and through the distribution. How have
many jobs I took on working in the
they achieved this? I believe they have done this
general store, I sought out to organize
through dedication and hard work. For being an
a volunteer appreciation event one that
organization primarily run by volunteers, they have
would in essence help bring people together
found some very dedicated and knowledgeable
and celebrate their hard work. What I proposed
individuals who have put in the time and work
was a potluck gathering open to everyone who was
to expand the foundation. What began in 2008,
a part of Sweet Water, friends and family as well
as an abandoned warehouse, designated to store
included. I worked with my two supervisors,
train cars, is now a flourishing oasis of thriving
as well as a guy named Jeff Redmond
agriculture, a center for learning and a spectacle of
who was head of the art projects held
modern science. I don’t think Sweet Water would
at the foundation. Jeff became
be what it is today if it weren’t for the shared sense
an important contact for this
of pride, purpose and responsibility the people who
endeavor and for future projects
work there have. Their expansion and success of
as well. Preparation for the
how the foundation functions today have been built
potluck took a few weeks.
from the ground up, literally, with a collective drive
I spent hours cleaning the
and passion for what goes on.
printing materials which hadn’t been used for a while,
ne common job there is harvesting lettuce.
scrubbing squeegees and so
This job is something that most anyone
on, in the trenches of sweet
could do if taught. However you might
water’s back warehouse.
wonder what motivates these volunteers to come
What seemed like gritty job
in on a weekly basis on their own time to stand for
from the get-go, turned out to be
hours without pay to pick leaves of this seemingly
more than worth while for people
precious hydro-lettuce? If there weren’t a sense
were more than excited to get their
of community there, with a genuine interest and
custom shirts made. The event took place
passion for the tasks that needed to be done, none
in Sweet Water’s newly established art gallery
of this would happen, or survive for that matter.
space, which is right next to the general store. Jeff
There seems to be a shared sense of pride and
had hung some of his work in the space that week
importance for the activities that go on there.
to promote the new edition, which was another aspect that excited people.
For instance, if the lettuce pickers didn’t come in
The turnout of the event was
to work how would the fish in the same system,
great. We had about 50
survive? If there weren’t any fish left, how would
people come and
Sweet Water go on to provide The Green Kitchen (and countless other local businesses) the staple, nutritious ingredients they need to serve their customers? Though this on their menu, would customers come back; would they stay in business? Sweet Water’s business model/ collective efforts function like a food chain. No single task is undermined in the process of production. Everyone is valued, every job is relative. Aside from the
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S W E E T WAT E R O R G A N I C S
participate. Families, founders and young volunteers all came and donated a dish to pass. What was scheduled as a 5-hour event turned into a day long extravaganza of live printing, music
Hosting it in the outdoor area of Sweet Water would be a great way of making it visible to people passing by. Inviting local vendors, musicians & neighboring businesses will be a great thing for the community. Jeff was kind enough to offer his screen-printing
and games. I took on the task of printing shirts
materials again/ anytime needed, which I am very
throughout the whole day.
grateful and excited about. I have plans for the near future to work with him on a mural project there
What made is more than satisfying was the joy that people seemed to get out of receiving a shirt. Families and their kids were able to participate, the
as well, which is to be taking place in early summer. This is something, which I have wanted to do for some time there now. The plan is to paint a large portion of the exterior of the building, which now sits
moms went crazy! It was funny
untouched. Not only will this advertise for visitors,
to see people make runs to the
but help make for a more inviting outdoor area for
thrift store to keep on bringing
events to be hosted.
clothing back to be printed on. Jeff especially seemed thrilled
Needless to say, I am very excited to continue to
that his equipment was being put
work with and create projects at Sweet Water!
to use, and his screens were so appreciated. I myself, lost track of time because it was so much fun,
ver the course of this semester I have been interested in the readings we have been
and can say that it surpassed any
given which discuss the power of community.
of my expectations. The experience
Ferdinand Tonnie’s writings on discussing his term
in itself embedded a gratifying sense of
of Gemeinschaft vs. Gesellschaft for example were
community and collective accomplishment.
one, which I found to be relative to my personal
It goes to show that again, the people who
volunteer experience. His expansive investigation
I got to know there are just genuinely awesome
on the meanings of community (or Gemeinschaft)
people! As for the future, myself and the people who
left me with countless ideas to consider.
helped me plan that event want to make a public version of our potluck happen for the summer. In turn, this could be a great way of recruiting more volunteers to help continue to expand Sweet Water.
To start, I found it compelling that he based his definitions (or comparisons for that matter) on the element of human will. Meaning, the ways in which a community functions, or changes can be measured by the willingness of its residents. I found this idea particularly relative to the progressive environment I was in at Sweet Water Organics. There, the people who ran the foundation faced a seemingly unrealistic business model. That being, a volunteer-run foundation that sells fish and vegetables for nearly noprofit at all. However, as discussed previously, through getting to know these people, their motivation and success has come out of a shared sense of purpose and collective will. This is what Tonnie might have
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S W E E T WAT E R O R G A N I C S
considered as a harmonious way of working, unknowingly being a part of something bigger. Tonnie also discussed the importance of connecting with others, and the dangers of distancing ourselves from other communities. In turn what this results in is a barrier of fear, which I find particularly relative to the city
“
of Milwaukee. It is no mystery that our city continues to be labeled as one of the most segregated cities in the nation. This very complex issue has everything to do with our government, politicians, investors as well as our neighbors and residents who are faced with economical challenges that permit a whole lot of progress to be made. If there’s one aspect to this issue that I find particularly compelling it is how we as a community can come together as a people to voice these changes that need to be made. Tonnie discusses this idea thoroughly in stressing how much power and responsibility that we as residents have to bind together. In his chapter Disillusion he states, “The substance of the common spirit has become so weak or the link connecting him with the others worn so thin that it has to be excluded
“
from consideration. In contrast to the family and co-operative relationship, this is true of all relations among separate individuals where there is no common understanding, and no time-honored custom or belief creates
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S W E E T WAT E R O R G A N I C S
a common bond.” (2) What can be
segregation, I do believe can be
In doing so, he proposes that we have
interpreted as a form of segregation
connected through the misuse and
evolved as a society to dismiss issues
is what he describes as a mental/
unbalanced amount of funding
of well being for one another. He poses
psychological war. This being a result
which seems to be lacking from our
the question: “What if we factored
of no communication between groups
government towards infrastructure.
into our estimates of productivity,
of different backgrounds, letting the
efficiency, or well-being the difference
stereotypes be the only thing that
This of course, is much easier said
between a humiliating handout and a
function between them.
than done for many reasons. One
benefit as of right? We might conclude
being, the amount of investments
that the provision of universal social
On page 2 he explains, “Even peaceful
that goes toward tourism in the
services, public health insurance, or
and neighborly relations are in reality
city of Milwaukee. In the state of
subsidized public transportation was
based upon a warlike situation.
Wisconsin alone, tourism brings in
actually a cost-effective way to achieve
This is, according to our concepts,
around $13 billion dollars a year in
our common objectives.”
the condition of Gesellschaft-like
annual business, bringing in around
civilization, in which peace and
66,000 jobs. Therefore, being one of
If there’s one thing I believe in it’s the
commerce are maintained through
our state’s major cities Milwaukee
importance of bringing these issues
conventions and the underlying
alone invests billions of dollars into
down to a very human-to-human level.
mutual fear.” (Tonnie) These social
tourism infrastructure to help sustain
We can read about all these things as
issues can be applied to many of
the industry. Summerfest for example,
much as we want, and granted there
the neighborhoods, which remain
is just one of the many sites where
is vital that we educate ourselves on
segregated in our city. However a
these investments are channeled. But
different ideas, however I believe in
major component to consider in the
an obvious question that I seem to
the value of doing things. Going back
spirit of change is again, the power
continue to wonder is if Milwaukee
to Tonnie’s emphasis on the power
we have a people who make up what
has all this money, why do we continue
of the people, I strongly agree with
Tonnie refers to as “The Real State”.
to struggle with seemingly simpler
this. Daniel Judt also discussed this
Furthermore, many of the economical
problems like public transportation,
in his article “Rethinking Politics in
issues, which Milwaukee faces, cannot
the lack of homeless shelters, food
the Classroom” which talked about
be fixed without the help and attention
pantry’s and community centers?
teaching younger students about
from its society. A topic, which I
(Marshall) As Judt states on page 169,
politics and the importance of sparking
focused on this semester, in particular
“Societies are complex and contain
conversations on controversial issues
was our city’s infrastructure and how
conflicting interests.” Therefore there
early on. The over arching idea here
it seems to be more than dysfunctional
is not just one simple solution to any
was the value placed on making things
in relationship to its residents.
of these issues. An interesting point
relative. Whether it is an experience,
that he goes onto discuss is the ways in
an idea or something spontaneous
In particular, the downtown area
which society influences how and what
I believe that there can be a lot
where countless buildings seems
we see as things of value. He discusses
gained through reflection and
to sit vacant, when the number of
how the society has encouraged us
thoughtful consideration. This is
Milwaukee’s homeless population
to invest more and more in private
how we can better our communities
increases. This issue, along with
interests in order to benefit ourselves.
and ourselves.
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S W E E T WAT E R O R G A N I C S
ver the course of this semester I can say that volunteering has opened my eyes on ideas of community and the importance of making connections. The readings we have been given as well as in class discussions have brought up some very important points such as the power we have as people and the responsibility we have to demand change. However, I do believe the most impact experience I have gotten from this course has been through the volunteer work itself. Sweet water was a great setting where art and community work went hand in hand. This type of creative environment is one in which I can see myself continuing being a part of. I have always been very driven by the process of making things. I do think this is one reason why I enjoyed working at Sweet Water so much. Everything from harvesting lettuce, catching fish and the event we threw was extremely hands on and process-driven. Being able to experience first hand the pay-off of hard work and to see a change in the place after putting in hard work was extremely satisfying. Likewise, having the openness to craft new events and projects was very motivating. Of course running a business of any kind being run off of volunteers is risky and has its pros and cons. However this is an aspect of Sweet Water, which I enjoyed the most because it offered flexibility and creativity to go into the planning of new projects. The people that I worked with played a huge role in everything too. Getting to know the charismatic co-workers at the warehouse was just as much fun as the jobs themselves. Being around entertaining individuals who were so dedicated and creatively motivated, was an encouraging environment to be a part of. After all, it is because of these people who come in and spend their time there who make the place run. The event that I am proposing is a long-term project in which all of these unique
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SPOTLIGHT
B R A I S E E L E VAT E S M I LWA U K E E DINING SCENE PHOTOGRAPHY by ALISON GALARZA ARTICLE by JEFF BEUTNER
With a number of
The room, dominated by two
the tiny bits of pancetta. The larger
restaurants opening
communal tables constructed with
size is suitable as a small entrée.
in formerly shuttered
wood from the building’s former
spots, Walker’s Point is
bowling alleys, has a second bar
Braise is a “Community Supported
where patrons can spy on kitchen
Restaurant.” Members may purchase
boom. The latest opening is Braise,
activities or watch the brick oven
vouchers in packages ranging from
located in the former M’s bar. The
in use. The items prepared in this
$250 to $5,000. The basic level
remodeled Braise is an ambitious
kitchen are all very tempting.
includes three $100 dinner vouchers.
showing signs of a dining
project part restaurant and part
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The upper levels add cooking
cooking school. Chef/owner David
The menu presents three categories:
classes, a kitchen work-share
Swanson focuses his menu on locally
the “Butcher Block,” or bar menu,
program, and an Urban Ecology
sourced foods.
the “Main” menu, with the entrées,
Center family membership, among
and the “Dessert” menu. The house-
other perks. Whether a member or
Braise offers a very pleasant setting.
pickled green tomato risotto with
not, Braise offers everyone a winning
The front room, featuring a bar and
paprika oil ($5-$9) is an ideal starter
experience. This is one of the finest
a few tables, has a rustic character-
that captures the spirit of Braise. It
restaurants to open in this area in
rustic as in Aspen, Colo. The rear
is a bit daring, with the tart flavor
quite some time.
dining room is where you will find
of the tomatoes dominating, but
even more action.
everything works together, including
Excerpt of a review written by Jeff Beutner. Visit shepherdexpress.com to read the full review.
CHEF TALK
(EXCERPTED) INTERVIEW by KYLE CHEREK
A sit down with Braise chef Dave Swanson; talking about his start as a chef and what it’s like running a locally-sourced ingredient delivery program.
KYLE: I was talking with another Chef, and she was saying how she loathes that restaurants now list the farms where the ingredients are from- because she feels that it should be normal. What do you think about that? DAVE: I never put the names down on the menu. Never. In the restaurant biz, we call that the “laundry list”, when you read the menu item, and you read it through, to the point where you don’t even know what you’re eating. We couldn’t do that, there are six or seven farms per each dish. We don’t want to hit out customers over the head with that when they come in. I completely agree that restaurants should all be sourcing locally, it shouldn’t be a selling point.
KYLE: Now, you come from the Chicago restaurant scene. Then you came here to be Chef de cuisine at Stanford, and then you stayed. Why? Was Milwaukee as dynamic for you as it is for me? DAVE: Yeah, I mean, I fell in love with Milwaukee. People always told me to go to Madison, because all the stuff I was doing is going on in Madison. But that’s why I wanted to do it here. We should really bring the farmers of Wisconsin into the light of day, into Milwaukee. KYLE: Does it frustrate you that it took you since 2004 to pull this place together?
DAVE: I mean, the real estate market was crazy. I couldn’t afford it. I had my business plans wrote out in ‘92, but life happens, and you never know what will happen. KYLE: How often do you get out in the food scene here? DAVE: Not very often. With doing RSA and home delivery, I’m busy. KYLE: Do you wish you could? DAVE: Um, yeah. It’s just about building relationships. I started out as a delivery guy for RSA, so a lot of Chefs sort of looked at me like “Who the fuck is this guy?” not realizing that I was the guy behind everything. But I love seeing other restaurants using our ingredients.
“
This is one of the finest restaurants to open in this area in quite some time. 24
SPOTLIGHT
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EAT L PHOTOGRAPHY by ALISON GALARZA
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W R I T T E N b y H E AT H E R R O N A L D S O N
E AT LO C A L
OCAL
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Farm-to-table relationships blossom among chefs, farmers, consumers EAT LOCAL may be a buzz phrase
Area Technical College. “If you take
for the Oconomowoc Lake Club, where
seen on countless bumper stickers,
your menu to a farmers market,
he was the executive chef for 21 years.
restaurant menus and websites. But
it just doesn’t work,” he added.
It’s fitting that he is one of six chefs
in recent years, it’s been taken a step
participating in a panel on farm
further to form relationships between
For chefs, that means cooking with
-to-table sourcing at a special
Wisconsin farmers and restaurant
beets, cabbage, carrots and potatoes in
breakfast Sunday morning at
owners in what has been called the
winter; asparagus, spinach and rhubarb
Wine & Dine Wisconsin.
farm-to-table movement.
in spring; broccoli, cabbage, chard, eggplant, scallions and tomatoes in
“As a chef, we have all this stuff
In farm-to-table, chefs seek Wisconsin
summer; and arugula, leeks, parsnips,
available to us around the world,”
farmers to serve as their restaurants’
rutabagas and turnips in fall, according
Kaestner said. It’s no surprise, then,
primary food supplier. This not only
to a seasonal availability chart provided
that writing a restaurant menu
puts dollars back into Wisconsin’s
by the Farmer Chef Connection.
around seasonal ingredients is jarring for chefs who order food
pocket, it also brings seasonal ingredients to consumers’ dinner
Local ingredients influenced Kaestner’s
online from large distributors in
plates at reasonable prices. The only
menus for more than 20 years. Industry
Chile and California, for example,
thing that changes is the menu.
leaders call him the “grandfather” of
and are used to year-round
the farm-to-table movement because
availability of ingredients. It’s an
“Most chefs 10 years ago weren’t
he was one of the first Wisconsin chefs
adjustment for clients, as well.
adjusted to the seasons,” said Jack
to vigorously source local food. At one
Kaestner, an instructor at Milwaukee
point, he had 35 farmers supplying food
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“Many of the good chefs are interested
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in the challenge of seasonality, but it’s
items. Chefs make exceptions, too,
with each other about their needs and
the customers who are slow to come
when purchasing saltwater seafood or
wants. “It’s like a marriage,” Deacon
around to that notion,” said David
exotic ingredients such as pineapple
said. “You really want someone you
Kozlowski, co-owner of Pinehold
and avocados — or when customers
are in tune with.”
Gardens farm in Oak Creek.
insist on eating out-of-season produce,
That’s kind of the tough nut of the whole thing. La Merenda has sourced locally since opening in 2007 and has put out more than 300 different menu items since then. It’s a challenge, said chefowner Peter Sandroni, but it keeps the restaurant from “resting back on its laurels and becoming complacent.” But not all items have local origins; think salt, sugar and other pantry
such as asparagus in October, Kaestner said.
Deacon worked with Kaestner 20 years ago to create a local food guide,
Chefs typically source from multiple
the Farm Fresh Atlas of Southeastern
produce and protein farms to achieve
Wisconsin, and now coordinates
product diversity. This also prevents
Milwaukee’s winter farmers market.
overwhelming one farmer.
Connections with protein farmer
As a rule of thumb, farmers should
might be stronger than with produce
match the size of their farm to the size
farmers because proteins are a more
of the restaurant they want to supply
consequential part of the restaurants’
so they are not overwhelmed with the
menus, said Kozlowski, whose farm
quantity of food ordered by chefs,
earns 10% to 15% of its annual
said Deb Deacon of the Farmer Chef
revenue from restaurant sales.
Connection, an online resource for
Jeff Preder of Jeff-Leen Farm said 40%
small-scale farmers who want to
to 45% of his annual beef, chicken
sell to restaurants. It’s also important
and egg sales come from restaurants.
for chefs and farmers to be transparent
“It’s nice having the restaurants’
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E AT LO C A L
(sales) during the winter so you have outlets for products year-round,” said Preder, who co-owns the Random Lake farm with his wife, Kathleen.
At La Merenda, the cooks are so used to seeing Sandra Raduenz, Pinehold Gardens’ co-owner, in the kitchen making personal deliveries that one purchased a used car from her. Janet Gamble of Turtle Creek Gardens asked Sandroni to cater her daughter’s wedding.
“It’s an honor,” Sandroni said. “It speaks volumes of the relationships we’ve created with people,” Customers are invited to join the farm-to-table conversation at 9:30 a.m. Sunday during a breakfast event at Wine & Dine Wisconsin. Sandroni, Kaestner and other local chefs (including Justin Aprahamian of Sanford, Dan Van Rite of Hinterland, David Swanson of Braise, Joe Muench
When done right, farm-to-table can be personal. 29
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If you go. Wine & Dine Wisconsin runs from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday at the Wisconsin Center, 400 W. Wisconsin Ave. Basic ticket price: $50 in advance (through midnight Friday), $70 at the door. Weekend pass (good for both days), $85. Buy tickets at wineanddinewisconsin.com. You must print out your e-ticket and bring it with you. Those without Internet access, call (414) 224-2468. Attendees must be 21 and older. First floor: Critic’s Choice dining area (ballroom), noon to 3 p.m. (requires extra $25 ticket). Special events (extra cost). Second floor: Main exhibit area with vendors, samples, tasting, chefs’ demonstrations. Seminars (extra $10 ticket). A conversation with chef & author Sandy D’Amato: 2:30 to 3:30 p.m. Saturday,Room 101, $45 (includes a copy of his book). Chefs farm-to-table round table & breakfast: 9:30 to 11 a.m. Sunday, Room 101, $15. Seminars: ($10 each, Room 201A or B) Saturday: “To Taste or Travel” (on Washington state wines), 12:30 to 1:15 p.m.; “From Bake to Brew: Local Terroir on Your Tongue,” 2 to 2:45 p.m. Sunday: “Let’s Have Drinks,” 12:30 to 1:15 p.m.
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LOCAVORE EDI TOR IN CHIE F Alison Galarza
A RT D IRE CTION Alison Galarza
PHOTOG RAP HY Alison Galarza Adobe Stock
I LLU STRATION Sennessa Soukkaserm
W RI TTEN CON TRIB UTE RS Heather Ronaldson Jeff Beutner Kyle Cherek Alison Galarza Ana Stephens Heather Ray San Francisco Tribune
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W E S H O U L D A L L B E LO C AVO R E S .
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