EXPEDIENTE FiLE
Nuevos centros de moda emergentes New emerging fashion centers
En la reciente edición de COUROMODA en Sao Paulo, Brasil, visitó la feria Michael Duck, director de APLF de Hong Kong, organización responsable de la realización de importantes eventos sectoriales en el continente asiático, entre ellos “Fashion Access”, “MM&T”, “All China Leather” y “CIFF/Moda Shangai”. New fashion hubs to emerge? The following text is an extremely interesting interview with Michael Duck, Senior Vice President of UBM Asia Ltd. and Director of APLF - Hong Kong and ACLE – Shanghai, with SERMA footwear magazine of Córdoba, Argentina, at Couromoda, São Paolo, Brazil on January 19th, 2010 at 5 pm. First of all a general question about your perception of the relationship of the East and
¿Cuál es su percepción sobre la relación entre Oriente
the West in terms of the manufactured products market after the world financial crisis?
y Occidente, respecto al mercado de las manufacturas,
And it became clear in May or June of 2009 that the banking situation and consumer confidence
después de la crisis financiera mundial?
in Asia as well as the confidence generated by the governments in Asia was strong enough to
Michael Duck –En mayo y junio de 2009 comenzó a normalizarse la
continue growth in the GDP. That’s not to say that in manufacturing countries such as China
actividad bancaria y aumentó la confianza de los consumidores en
or Korea or India or Indonesia were not affected by and are still affected by the crisis in the
Asia, impulsadas por los gobiernos que lograron fuertes incremen-
United States and Europe. But what it has meant is that the internal markets of Asia have been
tos en su PIB. Esto no quiere decir que los países manufactureros
stimulated more, which I believe is the beginning of the new Asian era.
como China, Corea, India o Indonesia no fueron afectados por la crisis de Estados Unidos y Europa, pero sí creo que muchos
From the point of view of consumption or manufacturing?
mercados internos de Asia han sido estimulados. Pienso que es
Consumption. Because it is a paradigm shift of economic movement.
el comienzo de una nueva era en Asia.
Second question. Traditionally for us who live in the West we believe that the East is
¿Desde el punto de vista del consumo o de la producción?
a market which has concentrated on production. But we also know that it has a lot of
Del consumo, debido a que es un cambio del paradigma eco-
potential as a consumer market. In this situation do you think that Europe with many
nómico.
famous brands has the most probability to supply the Asian market? I think that certainly this is an opportunity for them. Now for instance in footwear you’ve got
¿Qué posibilidades le asigna a Europa con sus marcas más
the high end which is already there but that is a very small percentage. The challenge is for
famosas para abastecer al mercado asiático?
European and American brands is now to retail in Asia, particularly in China. There is a very big
Ciertamente que hay una oportunidad para ellas. Actualmente
frustration, for instance, for Chinese manufacturers that they do not have strong enough brands
hay calzados europeos de alto nivel pero eso es un porcentaje
but that is not to say that there are not some reasonably successful brands in China and they
pequeño. El desafío para las marcas europeas y americanas
are getting stronger. The shift I am describing is not something that will happen in one or two
es crecer a través de la venta al por menor, particularmente en
years; in fact it could happen over the next ten years. For instance you have seen in India this
China. Entre muchos de los fabricantes chinos existe frustración
year – rather last year – that they have sold for the first time more than 2 million motor cars.
por no contar con marcas fuertes. Hay algunas en las que se está
In China last year they sold some 13.6 million. It is the biggest demand ever. The average price
invirtiendo para mejorar su posicionamiento. Este cambio no se
of the motor cars is quite low but these are new consumers who will increase the average price
hará en uno o dos años, sino que podría llevar más de 10 años.
of their cars as they get more money.
¿Cuáles son las posibilidades para América Latina? Tell me in this panorama of international trade what are the possibilities for Latin
Me refiero a los proveedores de materias primas y
America? I am referring to the fairs you organize as a point of contact – who will have
productos manufacturados. ¿Quiénes tienen mayores
the best possibilities, the suppliers of raw materials or the manufacturers of finished
oportunidades?
products in the next few years?
Si usted considera el ejemplo a los italianos, ellos han exportado
If you take the Italians for instance, they have been exporting finished leathers to China for many
y exportan desde hace muchos años cueros terminados a China,
years and products using Italian leather and accessories have been exported from China for many
que a su vez son manufacturados y exportados a distintos países
years, so there is no problem in the production or utilization of finished leathers in China and in
del mundo, en forma de calzado, marroquinería, etc. No preveo
India is very good today and will be in the future. I cannot see it changing for quite some time.
que esto vaya a cambiar por un tiempo. Actualmente observamos
If you take Brazil today, Argentina and Mexico are all exporting finished leathers which pass
que Brasil, Argentina y México están exportando cueros termi-
through Hong Kong and Shanghai. For finished products Brazil has a terrific opportunity because
nados a Hong Kong y Shanghái. En productos terminados, Brasil
they have a lot of branded finished goods here and if they are marketed correctly they will have
tiene una enorme oportunidad pues posee marcas, y si maneja
a very good market (in Asia). Not only China but into Japan, India and Korea or anywhere in Asia
correctamente la comercialización, tendrá un muy buen mercado
since everywhere in Asia the consumers are looking for new products, new ideas….I think that
en Asia. Y no sólo en China, también en Japón, India, Corea, o
one of problems though (in Brazil) is that the local market is too active but for those companies
cualquier otro lugar de esta región, pues crecen los consumidores
that want to take the opportunity and get their brands to these new markets, now is the time
ávidos de nuevos productos y nuevas ideas. Creo que el problema
to be starting. Do not expect it to happen overnight; you will need to take a good four or five
actual de Brasil es que su mercado interno está muy activo, pero
years of consistent marketing and gain the links with distributors, agents and also retailers in
para aquellas compañías que quieran aprovechar esta ocasión
the region. And it is not something, for instance, where you say that you are going to China and
para instalar sus marcas en los nuevos mercados, ahora es el
sell your brand there through one agent. It is not going to happen like that. The development
momento de empezar. Obviamente, los resultados no surgirán
of the distribution system in China and India is still very basic but it is changing fast. The people
de la noche a la mañana. Esto necesita un período de cuatro o
involved are getting more experience and are growing: There is an opportunity for companies
cinco años de una acción planificada de marketing, en conjunto
to export their brands to those countries now and to start to get them into the market. But
con distribuidores, agentes y comerciantes de la región. No es
at the same time you have to be able to match your brand marketing with marketing design
simplemente que un agente venderá su marca en China. No
which is different. In other words you need to adapt your product to the market and have a USP
es así. El desarrollo del sistema de distribución en China e India
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