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(Right) Chocolate-drizzled Napoleons are ready for customers; (Below, top to bottom) FPH Bakery is located in a renovated downtown building that housed Holmes Café for 55 years; Kacee Green holds a chocolate cake with chocolate ganache icing; FPH’s chicken salad is made with pecans, grapes, celery, poppy seeds and steak seasoning.

FPH Bakery

108 Conecuh Ave. Union Springs, AL 334-738-2017 Tuesday-Friday, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. Follow FPH Bakery (@FPHBakery) on Facebook to see daily lunch specials and more.

26 APRIL 2018

 Union Springs

the old town). The move shocks some. all things French, baking is associated with “People ask me all the time about how France, and I do want this place to feel like a different it must be here compared to San home, to be comfortable,” she says. Diego, but it’s really not,” she says. “The San Friendly staff, Anderson included, roll Diego I grew up in in the 1970s had this real out the welcome, and exposed brick lit by neighborhood feel and culture, kinda like a glittering chandeliers provides some oldsmall town. That’s not how it is today, but world flair. The china and silver are charmthat’s how it was for a lot of my time there.” ing but not pretentious: All mismatched, Union Springs’ leisurely pace and genuine they’re from the collection Anderson people reminded her of that childhood and amassed in her previous business. Delights instantly pulled her in. like cakes topped with bright berries and Now, she’s bringing others to the town. delicate napoleons glistening with drizzled Lunchtime at FPH stays busy; locals come chocolate perch on pedestals of varying in for a box lunch (a sandwich, chips and heights on a worn wooden counter, “icing” choice of dessert) or maybe a bowl of chili on the spot’s appeal and hospitality. or chicken and rice soup with a cup of cofThe vibe is all Anderson, but she’s also fee. Early afternoon sees a steady stream embracing the property’s past. “It was a of people sating a sugar fix, getting a sweet restaurant called Holmes Cafe, run by two snack or an entire cake or pie to go. brothers, for 55 years, and there were a lot Others drive over from Montgomery, of happy eating memories made here,” AnAuburn and Troy. Many come for a bite of derson says. She’s hoping to continue the her claim to fame: salted caramel cake, her legacy. riff on a Southern She’s also hoping staple that eschews her presence downThink your dietary restrictions town helps other the traditional cooked icing for mean FPH Bakery is off limits? businesses and enrich buttercream Maybe not! Anderson often courages new ones with her homemade to locate in the city’s “secret recipe” car- whips up a couple of gluten- center too. “I love amel (with a hint free and sugar-free baked good this place and want of salt) stirred in. options for those who can’t to do all I can to “The usual caramel promote this comicing down here is indulge in the others. munity and be a actually hard to get part of the positive right,” she says. “I decided not to even try change already happening,” she says. “It’s exand compete with everybody’s Nana.” citing to see new business open in this area.” And while Anderson’s baked goods – butShe’s equally excited by her first year’s tery croissants, fudgy brownies, fancifully accomplishments and looking forward to festooned cupcakes, cookies, pies and more a prosperous 2018, but putting satisfied – take the front seat, driving a lot of the baksmiles on her customer’s faces is the sweet ery’s traffic, a savory dish is not far behind reward that turns her lips up. “This is hard in popularity. Whether it’s between two work, but it’s really fun too, and for me, it’s pieces of bread or mounded on the aforenot about making a ton of money,” she says. mentioned pretty plates with pickles and “It’s about making people leave here happier crackers on the side, FPH’s chicken salad is than they were when they came in.” giving the pastries and other confections a run for their money. Combining both fine, While you’re there soft shreds and meatier chunks of roasted The town of Union Springs is a popular day chicken, sliced red grapes, chopped pecans, trip for groups. If you visit, be sure to check pureed celery, a dash of steak seasoning and out the Josephine Art Center, 126 Prairie St. poppy seeds with a just enough silky mayo N., where you can visit the local historical to hold things together, it’s creamy, crunchy, museum, view Alabama artwork, create your tart, peppery and salty all at once. own work of art, host a private party, book Housed in an old building on the edge of an historic tour of Bullock County, or even downtown that Anderson’s husband Bruce check out a ghost tour! More at artatjosecarefully renovated, FPH has a convivial, email promiseland@ustconline. atmosphere that’s a draw too. She used her net or (334)703-0098. blog’s name for the bakery, and it fits. “I love

Profile for Alabama Living

April 2018 baldwin  

April 2018 baldwin