Bwindi's Wonders

By Hollie M’gog

Bwindi is made up of four known tourist access sections: Buhoma, Ruhija, Nkuringo and Rushaga. Aerolink flew me, fit-and-ready for my gorilla trekking, direct from Murchison Falls into Kihihi which is closest to Buhoma. Uganda offers the visitor so much but travel days detract from the ability to really explore what is on offer. Aerolink really solves that with its direct and scenic flights to all the four corners of the Pearl of Africa: Kidepo Valley in the North-East, Murchison Falls in the North-West, forests, tea and chimps in the West and mountain gorillas in the southern section of the country, either in the Virunga massif or in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

Bwindi is a place I have visited again and again. It is a place where nature's wonders seamlessly blend. Bwindi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is celebrated for its extraordinary biodiversity and its crucial role in the conservation of one of the world's most endangered species: the mountain gorilla (Gorilla beringei beringei). The Buhoma section is a significant hub for gorilla trekking, offering a unique opportunity to encounter these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat. Somehow or other though, it is visited almost exclusively by trekkers keen to share magic moments with the mountain gorilla; and yet there is so much more: Crystal clear streams and waterfalls to picnic beside, to swim in, butterflies that murmurate in clouds, bird species that would get any novice birder applying for bird clubs, and a culture that permeates the very history of the forest itself.

Waterfalls are always enchanting but when they are hidden within the emerald embrace of a forest, they somehow hark back to a time forgotten, to never-ending stories of fairy-lanterns, fireflies and forest sprites. The chuckle of pebbles as they rattle beneath clear splashing water, the lure of little wooden bridges over rushing streams, the croaking frogs and the ever-moving chatter of small forest birds, flashes of turaco-red, kingfisher-blue and pitta-green create a living, pulsating world that pushes away stress and all the real-world considerations that take up our time.

We come away from home for adventure, for holiday, for a glimpse into new worlds and for an ability to step back and take on new perspectives. Yes, the mountain gorillas give you that ability but they are still managed and timed, narrated and accompanied. Streams, waterfalls, birds and forest walks give us that oh-so-important ability to listen to silence. To become a part of the world around us. To not be constantly on-watch, to be able to lie back on chequered picnic blankets … and just be!

Mountain Gorillas: The Soul of Bwindi

No matter how spell-binding the forest streams, the mountain gorillas are not to be missed. With fewer than 1,000 mountain gorillas left in the world, encountering them in Bwindi is a privilege and a conservation success story.

Extreme conservation is the daily protection of individual gorillas and their families. It is species management, intervention, data collection, medic checks and careful tourism management. Gorillas are, what we in the ecological world call a conservation-dependent species. Without our interventions there would be no conservation success story to tell.

Although we, the esteemed gorilla visitors are allowed only one strict hour with them, researchers, trackers, guides, vets and others are always there doing painstaking headcounts, overseeing snare removals, collecting faecal samples that are tested for new or stubborn parasites, checking and recording body conditions, health of the young, keeping an eye on any injuries that may have happened through natural means and conducting DNA analyses that allow for clear gorilla identification. This is overseen by reputable organisations such as the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund whose photos illustrate the great work they do in the Virunga’s specifically.

All family lineages are known, characters, temperaments, triggers and more. Those involved in this vast data collection work as and alongside the gorilla habituation teams in 12hr days, trekking through wet forests, down into rocky and vine filled ravines, up and down mountain sides – all this behind-the-scenes means we are able to have a safe, memorycreating hour with a species that has been brought back from the brink of extinction. A species that we are able to visit and sit amongst without jeopardising because so much work has been done over the decades to understand the passage of disease transmission between these, some of our closest relatives, and us, a planet-wandering ape with a diet so devolved from the bamboo and leaf munching gorillas of Africa’s two remaining forests: The Virunga’s and Bwindi.

The trekking experience in any part of the forest is not just about seeing gorillas; it's a journey through the moss and lichen filled forests of Bwindi, through a symphony of forest sounds. Knowledgeable guides lead the way, sharing insights about the gorillas they have come to know so well, their behaviour and the challenges they face in the wild. It's a chance to gain a deep appreciation for the importance of preserving these magnificent primates and their habitat.

Once you find a gorilla family, the magic truly begins. Watching these gentle giants go about their daily lives is a humbling experience. You'll see them play, groom and interact with one another. The interactions and expressions on their faces are surprisingly human-like, making it easy to connect with them on a profound level.

Gorilla trekking is not just about the hour you spend with the gorillas. It's about the entire experience, from the hike through the dense forest to the moment you lay eyes on these gentle giants. It's about understanding the conservation efforts and the challenges of protecting these incredible creatures.

Bwindi's conservation efforts are strongly tied to the support of local communities. Revenue generated from gorilla trekking permits contributes to the conservation of mountain gorillas and the preservation of their habitat. Moreover, the park creates job opportunities for the local population, fostering a sense of pride and motivation to protect this natural treasure.

Visitors are encouraged to engage with the local communities by participating in cultural experiences, visiting craft shops, and learning about their way of life. This interaction not only adds depth to your journey but also reinforces the connection between responsible tourism and conservation.

Bwindi is a place where nature thrives within managed boundaries, where the conservation of an endangered species is a shared responsibility. As you explore this extraordinary part of the world, you'll leave with a heart full of memories, a deeper understanding of the importance of preserving our planet's wonders, and a lasting appreciation for the enchantment of Bwindi.

Buhoma of course offers a range of accommodation, from the luxurious to the simple, but Trackers Lodge is something special. Wooden walkways, enormous rooms, hot, spacious showers and a roaring fire in a cosy lounge after a meal that puts all those calories back on! The staff were not only friendly and competent but full of suggestions and ideas that complemented all that I intended to do in my short stay there.

A place I cannot recommend enough.