Air Chats Winter 2023

Air Chats

About Us

Dining

About Us

About Us

t in 5 acres of beautifully landscaped rdens, the newly renovated South cific Resort is the largest and most nveniently located hotel on Norfolk and. It will take just a brief walk to the ain shopping township of Burnt Pine d only a short drive to historical ngston, amazing Emily Bay and the lf Course. The South Pacific Resort is rfect for relaxing and unwinding on ur Norfolk Island holiday

Set in 5 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens, the newly renovated South Pacific Resort is the largest and most conveniently located hotel on Norfolk Island. It will take just a brief walk to the main shopping township of Burnt Pine and only a short drive to historical Kingston, amazing Emily Bay and the Golf Course. The South Pacific Resort is perfect for relaxing and unwinding on your Norfolk Island holiday.

Set in 5 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens, the newly renovated South Pacific Resort is the largest and most conveniently located hotel on Norfolk Island. It will take just a brief walk to the main shopping township of Burnt Pine and only a short drive to historical Kingston, amazing Emily Bay and the Golf Course The South Pacific Resort is perfect for relaxing and unwinding on your Norfolk Island holiday

Dining

Dining

Enjoy a delicious dinner in Cook's Landing Restaurant, which offers Modern Australian cuisines for all age groups. Sample the fantastic coffees and toasties at the Aviation Poolside Cafe or sip a cocktail by the poolside at the end of a busy day.

Enjoy a delicious dinner in Cook's Landing Restaurant, which offers Modern Australian cuisines for all age groups. Sample the fantastic coffees and toasties at the Aviation Poolside Cafe or sip a cocktail by the poolside at the end of a busy day

Whatever your preferences, our warm and friendly staff will ensure your Island getaway trip is memorable.

Enjoy a delicious dinner in Cook's Landing Restaurant, which offers Modern Australian cuisines for all age groups Sample the fantastic coffees and toasties at the Aviation Poolside Cafe or sip a cocktail by the poolside at the end of a busy day

Whatever your preferences, our warm and friendly staff will ensure your Island getaway trip is memorable.

Whatever your preferences, our warm and friendly staff will ensure your Island getaway trip is memorable.

Kia ora tātou

Welcome to the winter edition of Air Chats magazine.

Summer seemed more like an extended autumn this year, with lush green lawns all-year round, but now we already have the shorter days and cooler nights! Hōtoke and Makariri are two words for the winter period from June to August as well as for cold, and winter is associated with the star Sirius, or Takurua, which gives te reo another word for winter. It also gives us the saying, ‘Takurua hūpē nui’, and if you look that translation up I am sure you will agree!

The cold chill may claw at the windows around the country, but as Lesley Whyte’s photos show winter can also be the most amazing time to get outside on fine days, with crisp and clear light for photography and pitch dark nights ideal for star gazing. See page 07.

In some ways though, winter is only a state of mind and there is plenty to see and do, as we will reveal in some of the great stories brought to you with gusto and humour in this winter Air Chats edition. There are destinations where winter is a balmy 18 degrees, like on the beaches of Norfolk Island which truly is the ‘Winterless North’ and an ideal escape for kiwis keen to drag our Aotearoa Summer out a little longer, and other destinations around the motu where there’s so much going on that you’ll soon forget about temperature!

Our airline also has a lot going on during winter. We continue to operate our regular schedules connecting Whanganui, Whakatāne and Paraparaumu to Auckland, with a total of 94 flights each week! We reduce our Chatham Islands and Norfolk Island schedules slightly at this time, but will ramp these up again from September. And with the reduction in some flying we take this opportunity to put our aircraft fleet through heavy maintenance checks to ensure the machines are ready and raring to go for another busy Spring/Summer period.

This winter we’d love to share our winter destinations with all our traveling whānau. Whether it’s on a sports charter for the Heartland Rugby or a lastminute family trip to thaw out under mild Pacific skies we enjoy sharing time and conversation with you all when flying Air Chathams, your family in the sky!

Ka kite anō and safe travels!

Duane Emeny, Chief Operating Officer Air Chathams

Each year Air Chathams carries more than 100,000 passengers around New Zealand, and in each edition of our inflight magazine

Air Chats we celebrate the very best of the regions we cover: from art and culture, to business, history and lifestyle, Air Chats tells the stories of the people who make those places great. If you’d like to be a part of Air Chats, get in touch - the team would love to hear from you.

marketing@airchathams.co.nz

airchathams.co.nz

fb.com/airchathams

@airchathams

Publisher Plenty Limited - airchats@plenty.co.nz

Editor/KaiwhakatikaTuhinga

Andy Taylor - info@plenty.co.nz

Design & Production/Kaiwhakatauira

Sarah Lane - design@plenty.co.nz

Advertising Enquiries airchats@plenty.co.nz +64 (0)27 932 5515

Cover image

Illustrated wall graphic of New Zealand native flora and fauna. By Ronnie Baker, commissioned by Whakatipu Reforestation Trust and installed at Queenstown Airport.

NEWS/EVENTS

The airline that brings New Zealand together.

08 DOGS, PROTESTS, AND A VICTORY

The strange tail (ahem) of the Chatham Islands dog tax.

18

OVER HERE!

It’s 1942 and the Yanks are coming to Kāpiti Coast! 24 QUEEN OF THE SKIES

Kaitaia, our grand dame of the skies, is a little piece of living history.

28 SCHOOL OF ROCK

Whanganui’s Black Sand Music

Retreat is the perfect muso getaway.

INTO THE WILD

The Mōtū River – the best unspoilt get-away-from-it-all destination around. 38

LIVING LEGACIES

It’s the best day of the year on Norfolk Island, and you’re invited.

42

OUR FLEET

From single engine light aircraft to our turbo-prop planes, we’ve something for every occasion.

44 DESTINATIONS

Air Chathams is New Zealand’s largest privately owned airline, flying to some of New Zealand’s best regional destinations.

News &

Events

Whakatāne Kiwi Trust

Night Walks - Mokoroa

Scenic Reserve

Operating April till Friday, 30 June, 7pm till 9:30pm www.whakatanekiwi.org.nz/ experiences/night-walks

Don’t hibernate this winter! Wrap up warm, grab a torch and explore the REAL Whakatāne night life scene with the Whakatāne Kiwi Trust!

Come along and learn about our local kiwi population and the work being done by our amazing volunteers to protect our national icon and other native taonga. If you listen carefully you might even hear the call of kiwi or weka! Birds aren’t the only stars of the show though, you’ll also discover various plant life, nocturnal creepycrawlies like spiders and wētā, and incredible glow-in-the-dark fungi!

Whanganui Home & Lifestyle Show 2023

WHANGANUI

12 and 13 August, Jubilee Stadium Whanganui www.homeandlifestyleshow.co.nz

This year’s event features a huge number of companies showcasing everything from kitchens and bathrooms, to heating and insulation, artisan food and crafts, lifestyle and homeware products and more! Whether you’re about to tackle a renovation, DIY project, new build or looking for some home décor inspiration, the Home & Lifestyle Show is just for you, with amazing show-only deals. You’ll find everything you need under one roof!

CHATHAM

Chatham Islands Science Festival

August 2023

www.chathamislands.co.nz

The Chatham Islands are famous for many things - seafood, a rich cultural history, and beautiful landscapes to name a few - but a new annual festival aims to put it back on the map where it belongs at the leading edge of scientific research. Now in its second year, the Chatham Islands Festival of Science aims to draw locals and visitors alike to come and enjoy science-inspired events.

The festival has a wide focus with scientists and speakers coming from throughout Aotearoa to present on topics ranging from sea temperatures and climate change to life at Scott Base; check out the link for details.

Inaugural Chatham Islands Writing Retreat

07 - 14 September (proposed dates)

Surround yourself with an ocean of inspiration. A unique environment, and history will captivate. Explore, write, learn, share - connect with whenua, mauri and wairua. Enquiries and Registrations of Interest to manager@chathamislands.co.nz

NORFOLK ISLANDS

Ball Room Dancing Festival

17 till 23 June 2023

www.norfolkisland.com.au

Visitors travel from far and wide across Australia and New Zealand to Norfolk’s Ball Room Dancing Festival. This is often a sell-out event so if you are serious about ball room get in now to secure your spot!

And as serious as this all sounds, the festival is strictly social – it’s a great chance to meet fellow dancers and to enjoy a week of dancing all while on a holiday on beautiful Norfolk Island.

Rugby on the Rock!

05 till 13 August 2023, daily tournament games

www.norfolkisland.com.au

The perfect opportunity for teams from Australia and New Zealand to compete against Norfolk’s very own “Creaky Old Convicts”, the tournament is open to any players over 35 years of age who still hanker to scrum, ruck and maul with their mates and to play among the convict ruins of beautiful Norfolk Island. A great week of games and socialising!

KĀPITI COAST

Matariki Ramaroa festival

Celebrate the Māori New Year on the Kāpiti Coast

Month of July

www.maorilandfilm.co.nz, Matariki page

Curated by the incredibly talented Māoriland team (of Māoriland Film Festival fame), the annual month-long Matariki Ramaroa festival is opened and closed by two stunning light art events.

Full of food trucks, music and beautiful light installations, each of the weekends is slightly different, making it well worth taking the whānau to both for a delightful night out! Rug up warm and enjoy a national celebration!

American soldiers were a welcome sight in wartime Kāpiti Coast

The arrival of US Marines in Wellington, Wairarapa and the Kāpiti Coast brought colour and security to a country nervous at the prospect of a Japanese invasion. Getting off military transport ships in Wellington in 1943, the US Marines were a fighting force who had been through hell, and their year of rest and recuperation, then training based from their barracks in Wairarapa, made a big impact culturally and militarily, and they were soon ready to head back into the fray. Masterton historian Mark Pacey recently launched his book ‘Our New Zealand Home, The USMC in Wairarapa’ which covers the activities and influence of the US Marines on the region during World War II. See story on page 18.

The book is available through Masterton Paper Plus, Hedley’s Bookshop, Take Note Carterton and from the website www.gosson.co.nz

THROUGH THE LENS

With Lesley Whyte

The cold, wintery months often mean we just want to stay indoors, but they also offer a chance to brave the blustery and bracing weather and see nature in all it’s rugged glory. This is so true for photographers, and especially so when shooting on the Chatham Islands. Photographer Lesley Whyte is no stranger to the Islandshe runs photography tours there regularly - and is also no stranger to shooting in winter

wonderlands, and has shared this awesome shot that sums up how many people see the Chatham Islands.

“On an early morning in March this year,” says Lesley, “we were on a drive to Hapupu (the JM Barker Historic Reserve) to view the Moriori tree carving dendroglyphs. The mist descended as we drove across Kaingaroa Station, which is located at the North end of Chatham Island, and

photographers never want to miss an opportunity to capture gorgeous, moody misty images like this lone Akeake tree peeking out from the mist.”

For shutterbugs out there, this was captured on a Nikon Z fc, 50-250mm f4.5-6.3, ISO 500, Aperture f11, Shutter Speed 1/500. And if you’d like to see more of Lesley’s work check out her website

lesleywhytephotography.co.nz

Dogs, protests, and a victory

THE DOG TAX COMES TO THE CHATHAMS

Words adapted from “Chathams Resurgent”, by Hugh Rennie.

Illustrations by Ronnie Baker.

TAXES: resentment for them drove the French revolution, revolt against them helped form the United States, and Benjamin Franklin famously noted that there was nothing sure in life except themand death. But as Sir Hugh Rennie writes in Chathams Resurgent, in the late 1880s the good folk of the Chatham Islands fought a tax and proved Mr Franklin wrong.

IT

STARTED OUT SIMPLY ENOUGH.

An annual dog tax was levied throughout New Zealand in 1880 to enforce registration and control dogs, and to modern eyes this seems pretty pedestrian. But in colonial Aotearoa it was met with some opposition, not least from Māori who often owned numerous dogs and who called for a boycott.

Then, in 1888 following a petition from some local landowners, the dog tax came to the Chathams and things got interesting.

The mainland call to oppose the tax was readily taken up by Māori and Moriori on the island, with one local, Wa Te (or Wita) Tahuhu, persuading other locals to refuse to pay the dog tax, other taxes, or attend any court proceedings that arose from this.

It was the unenviable task of the local constable to summons those who would not pay, and of the magistrate to deal with this rebellion, but both proved somewhat inadequate for the task! The Chatham correspondent of the Lyttelton Times reported that several ‘natives’ had refused to pay the tax and also refused to appear before the court:

“Warrants were issued for their arrest, and the constable, accompanied by Mr Alex Shand as interpreter, proceeded to vindicate the law. Rumour says they got rather the worst of an encounter with an enraged “wahine” who “floored” the constable and sat on him…(then) proceeded, like Samson of old, to attack Mr Shand with, not the jawbone of an ass, but with that of a defunct bullock.”

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To modern eyes this seems pretty pedestrian. But in colonial Aotearoa it was met with some opposition.

Smarting from this colourful encounter, the authorities decided that a show of force was needed to bring such unruly wahine into line and a Major Gudgeon, with members of the Permanent Artillery, took the government steamer Hinemoa to the island and arrested Wa Te Tahuhu and another objector Heta. Brought before the magistrate, they refused to obey the Court or to plead and each was sentenced to a fine, in default a month’s hard labour in the Lyttelton gaol. Other ‘tax evaders’ were imprisoned on the island.

Chatham Islands and makes regular visits home

All this seemed to achieve was a satirical editorial in Wellington’s Evening Post that mocked the “military expedition” and proposed “…it is just possible that the Morioris do not pay the dog tax for the reason that they do not have the money”. This, it said, would leave Major Gudgeon to kill all the dogs, but this could have been done much more cheaply by sending a packet of strychnine.

Rising to the occasion, the paper then asked why the Prime Minister (Sir Harry Atkinson) had not gone himself: “His thirst for military glory is well known, and as he cannot harry Te Kooti right now, and disclaims all idea of a raid on Tawhaio, this Chatham Islands expedition would have prevented his sword rusting in its sheath. … It is unworthy of the importance of the mission and the question at issue that our gallant forces should have been sent to the dogs under command of a mere Major.”

Chatham Islands

Festival of Science

15-20 AUGUST 2023

Join

geologist Hamish Campbell (GNS Science), environmental scientist Aneika Young (CAWTHRON); Māori food researcher Joe McLeod and science historian David Johnston (Massey University).

W: chathamislands.co.nz/other-information/events/

E: Register your interest with Alicia Cui (a.cui1@massey.ac.nz) More information to come

All levity aside, Gudgeon’s military expedition did not resolve the issue. For the 1889 tax year summonses were issued, but no-one attended Court, and the magistrate did nothing, so for 1890 he swore in special constables and sent them into the community to finally enforce the letter of the law. The 8th of January issue of The Press takes up the story:

Chatham Island’s Awarakau Lodge is just 8km from Waitangi, with great coastal views from our lounge and dining areas, and the spectacular shoreline just a short walk away.

“The whole of the inmates of the pah, men, women and children rushed towards the Courthouse, following the officials, who were on horseback. The officials got into the Courthouse first and tried to single out certain leading natives, to deal with them first. The women and children and younger men, however, blocked the gates, and eventually forced their way into the yard and took possession. The officials were powerless to maintain order and the yard was for about eight hours a perfect pandemonium. The women and children formed lines and the men for two hours danced a haka and worked themselves up into a state of perfect frenzy.”

We specialize in small group package tours (max of 12), with expert local guides covering the island’s culture, history and conservation - we’ve been on the island for six generations so we know our way around. So check out our great seven night holiday packages and competitive rates and come on over. www.awarakau-lodge.nz

We are a family owned and operated business

In 1888 the dog tax came to the Chathams and things got interesting.

Wellington or Christchurch CHATHAM ISLANDS

Experience eight days in one of New Zealand's most remote and unique places. The Chatham Islands are the closest most New Zealanders can get to international travel without packing their passport.

Due to ever increasing popularity, and in conjunction with Air Chathams and Hotel Chathams, we are running two tours to the Chatham Islands from either Wellington or Christchurch during August.

Both these tours coincided and incorporate the popular complimentary 2023 Chatham Islands Festival of Science, scheduled for 15-20 August 2023.

We will y to the Chatham Islands direct, where we will have up to eight fully guided days to explore our most eastern island before returning home. Pitt Island is an option, as is shing.

Phone: (03) 249 8294

Email: chathamislandtours@gmail.com

www.chatham island tours.nz

TOUR # 47

Is for eight days and seven nights on Chatham X Wellington

Monday, 14th August 2023

Depart Wellington 2:00pm

Arrive Chatham 4:30pm (CI).

Monday, 21st August 2023

Depart Chatham Islands 9:45am

Arrive Wellington 11:15am.

TOUR # 48

Is for eight days and seven nights on Chatham X Christchurch

Tuesday, 15th August 2023

Depart Christchurch 2:00pm

Arrive Chatham 4:30pm (CI).

Tuesday, 22nd August 2023

Depart Chatham Islands 9:45am

Arrive Christchurch 11:15am.

All inclusive costing per person X Christchurch or Wellington

SINGLE shared facilities .......................... $4,455

TWIN / DOUBLE with ensuite ............... $4,555

SUPERIOR SUITES ...................................... $4,655

Make up your party now and take advantage of your preferred accommodation while availability lasts.

It is worth noting that nothing violent occurred at any point, the protest ended with all going peacefully home, and one local told The Press that the haka was specially composed for the occasion, with its words saying, “the limbs of the magistrate were trembling and that he was perfectly powerless to enforce the law”. The reference to the trembling magistrate was probably not just poetic license; indeed, he was sacked and replaced by a semi-retired military officer, Major Gascoyne.

In March 1891, the government reduced the dog tax in New Zealand, and the following year excluded the Islands altogether from the tax, but, worried about the confrontation but not wanting to show this, also decided to send a gunboat. And this time it would not be the government steamer with its trivial armament, but a real warship!

On the pretence that a check on illegal sealing was required, and that the government steamer was needed elsewhere, the British cruiser Goldfinch was sent to the Chathams in May 1892. The aim was to “over-awe” the Islanders, but as

the Auckland Star wryly observed, a war vessel collecting the dog tax is “certainly a rather ludicrous idea”. And so it was; the arrival of this major warship created more puzzlement than awe amongst the Islanders, with Gascoyne merely recording it as a visit, and the Goldfinch sailed off to rule the waves elsewhere.

In 1895, when introducing the Dog Registration Bill, which included a provision excluding the Chatham Islands, Prime Minister Seddon noted this came from the recommendations of the hapless local magistrate, telling Parliament that the “Natives absolutely set the law at defiance and could not be fined for breaches of it.”

So, threats, special constables, gunboat diplomacy - all had failed. Reputations had come to grief, the dog tax had descended into farce, and Chatham Islands canines remained resolutely untroubled by the tax man.

Adapted from “Chathams Resurgent”, by Hugh Rennie, published by Fraser Books, $60.

Stephen Gregory-Hunt

027 293 4979

s.gregoryhunt@harcourts.co.nz

RONNIE BAKER is a freelance illustrator and artist based in Nelson. She has a background in visual communication, has worked in signwriting and graphic design, and with a range of wellknown brands around Aotearoa. Ronnie is also an accomplished painter and mural artist, with her work adorning many prominent locations around Queenstown where she used to live.

When she’s not busy drawing pictures, you’ll find Ronnie up in the mountains on a bike, on skis or in mountaineering mode. She draws a lot of inspiration for her artwork from the beautiful landscapes, flora and fauna of New Zealand. www.ronniebaker.co.nz

COVER IMAGE also designed by the talented Ronnie Baker for the Whakatipu Reforestation Trust who do great work to restore the native biodiversity of the Whakatipu Basin through revegetation projects, collaboration, education and advocacy. You can find out more about them at www.wrtqt.org.nz

Important Information for Visitors

The Islands are a place where you will enjoy many different activities. Nature, history, culture, fishing, walks and hikes, photography, art and craft, isolated beaches and bird watching. Here are a few key things Tourism Chatham Islands would like you to know before you arrive.

Respecting the Local Kai Moana Resource

The Chatham Islands are renowned for their abundant seafood. Help us preserve this valuable resource by taking only what you need for a meal and purchase fish to take home from the local factories.

Please leave the paua beds for the locals. They are an important local food source and resource that we don’t want to see depleted. You can enjoy lots of quality Chatham Islands seafood on the menus here on the islands.

Private Land Access and Signage

Unlike mainland New Zealand, most of the island, including the beaches, is privately owned land. Most attractions are on private land and access to them requires permission and payment of an entry fee. This must be prearranged and your host will be able to assist. Visitors are asked not to venture onto any private land without permission.

Natural and Archaeological Taonga

Voluntary Visitor Levy - $25 per visitor

To assist enhancing the visitor experience, particularly infrastructure, we encourage all visitors to make a donation of $25 directly to Tourism Chatham Islands:

ANZ Account: 06 0845 00796434 002

Particulars: Your name

Reference: Donation

Thank you for your support.

The Chatham Islands are rich in flora and fauna, geological and archaeological treasures – for example native birds, fossils (including shark teeth), and sites related to Moriori settlement, all of which are protected by law. These also hold special value to Islanders. Please respect these by not removing any items you find.

Water Conservation

Water is often in short supply and restrictions are put in place, particularly in summer. Please help us to conserve it when showering, flushing etc.

Their Kiwi Home

As another ANZAC day looks back on the service of our men and women in uniform who served in foreign lands, it’s timely to also recall the services of those who came from foreign lands to our shores. Now a new book casts an intriguing light on a significant role of the United States Marine Corps in Aotearoa New Zealand during WW2.

Kāpiti Coast

Auckland

Our New Zealand Home is author Mark Pacey’s fifth publication and charts the arrival, training and ‘rest and recuperation’ process of the Marines who arrived here in 1942. They were homed in various bases throughout the lower North Island, including sizeable Kāpiti camps at Paekākāriki, Camp Russell (now Queen Elizabeth Park), and Camp McKay (now Whareroa Farm); nearly 20,000 men were stationed in the area and the forested Kāpiti hills became training grounds for jungle warfare and its beaches the settings for amphibious landings.

“They were here ostensibly for R’n’R, rest and recuperation,” says Mark, “and some of the units, like those that had been on Guadalcanal, really needed it. But they were also here for training in jungle warfare, and - more importantly for Kiwisto bolster our defences against a possible Japanese invasion.”

For while Australia had chosen to withdraw its troops from the European and African theatres to defend its home soil, New Zealand opted to stick to the original game plan and remain to keep the pressure on Germany and Italy. The arrival of the Marines was therefore something of a reassurance for us - just as it was a reprieve for them.

One New Zealander quoted in the book notes that, “We were ably protected on our coast by the Legion of Frontiersmen who had a .303 [rifle] every three miles,” and while Mark notes this was said in a joking manner, the statement was quite accurate. “There were long stretches of New Zealand coastline that had no protection whatsoever,” he says, “the Kāpiti Coast is a prime example, so the Americans, who had all the latest equipment, were made to feel more than welcome!”

To prepare them for life in New Zealand a booklet, Meet New Zealand, was produced by the Department of Internal Affairs, though it’s suitably understated Kiwi style must have raised a few eyebrows in the brash young Marines:

“Welcome! When we say that we mean it. Those of us who have met Americans before have liked them (or most of them), and we hope you Americans will like us (or most of us). We know you’re here to do a job of work and that you want to get on with it, but when you get liberty, we want to meet you and know you and we want you to meet and know us, and not merely on the streets but in our homes. You won’t find subways, skyscrapers, or night life. You will find that when you break the crust, we’re much like the folks back home. New Zealand is a small country, but we like to think our hearts are reasonably big.”

A later section of the booklet was devoted to New Zealand slang at the time, as it was felt that terms like “crook”, “lollies”, and “argue the toss” might be confusing to the American visitors, so a translation was provided.

By and large, relations between the Marines and locals went well, with the welcome mat being rolled out to this decidedly different culture that came with thrilling dance music, snappy uniforms and, well, pretty much everything. Rationing was in full effect in New Zealand, with most of our produce exported to Britain and the war effort, and imports heavily restricted, as this extract from Mark’s book poignantly shows:

“We used to treasure every rag. Any linen you could get a hold of you would make handkerchiefs out of it, things like that, there was just nothing. The shops were just bare, anything they had was rationed and under the counter. I remember when we were married and we were able to get two hospital blankets, that’s all we could get ... otherwise you waited and waited in queues for everything of course, for your tea, your sugar and everything else, but we managed.”

With America’s industrial might behind them, the Marines were somewhat better off, and were happy to share.

“We used to have the Americans going past in lorries,” one local recalled, “and I can remember one lorry ran off the road and burst its benzine tank, and the Americans yelled out, ‘Bring some containers.’ Of course petrol was scarce, and we took tins and that and we had a lovely lot of petrol, I’ll never forget that.”

“Those of us who have met Americans before have liked them (or most of them), and we hope you Americans will like us (or most of us).”

One Marine also recalls a method of fire starting that would have appalled Kiwis. “First thing in the morning when we got up, we’d fill the old stove full of wood and coal and so on and toss in a heap of kerosene and throw a match in it and there would be a horrible explosion and the ringing of explosions all over the camp and then we would go out for a run and by the time we got back of course the fire would be roaring and be nice and warm.”

The Marines’ generosity stretched to more than benzine: they had chocolate, tinned fruit and all sorts of rare delicacies that they often handed out to locals, and in return locals would happily take the Marines to their favoured fishing and hunting grounds. “The New Zealanders knew the best spots and had the gear; the Marines had the transport and the gas. It was the perfect union,” says Mark.

“The New Zealanders knew the best spots and had the (fishing) gear; the Marines had the transport and the gas. It was the perfect union.”

“Hunting was a great pastime for the Americans, and they were very enthusiastic. Sometimes a little too enthusiastic: ‘We would have a whole string of Marines coming out in their jeeps,’ one Kiwi recalled, ‘and they would have machine guns and all the automatic rifles, and they said, ‘There are rabbits out here we understand.’ I really had to hold them back from shooting a sheep. They wanted to shoot everything that moved. They had the grog with them too, they had all sorts of things.”

ALL GOOD THINGS HAD TO COME TO AN END

however, and seemingly overnight the camps vanished as the tide of war turned and the Marines were deployed to the looming battle for the Japanese home islands. But lasting friendships had been formed, and in some cases romantic relationships that grew into marriage, with many young Kiwi women becoming brides in America and several Marines returning to marry and become Kiwis.

For most however, the heady days of having the Yanks in the neighbourhood would simply shift into sporadic letters from the front. “Over the coming months the letters would continue,” writes Mark, “but some of them would suddenly stop. It was a terrible reality that in war, young men die. In some letters back to New Zealand, they would make such hopeful comments like enjoying quiet periods when they “have time to sit and think of all the good people, steaks, and beers we left behind in New Zealand.”

The Marines left more than that behind though; they also left a strong impression on the people of Kāpiti and the other bases that were their Kiwi homes, and a connection that lives on to this day. And thanks to Mark Pacey’s latest book, more and more Kiwis are learning just how important that connection once was.

The Kāpiti US Marines Trust have restored several Marines huts and they are well worth a visit; see www.marinenz.com for details.

Below: Memorial Day at US Marines Memorial in Queen Elizabeth Park Images credit Kāpiti US Marines Trust

Above: Marines from the US Marines Detachment in New Zealand playing cards in the newly restored Marines Hut 2017

of the Skies Queen

IT’S BEEN A FAIRLY VOLATILE SUMMER to say the least, but not volatile enough to keep our trusty DC-3 Kaitaia from gracing the skies on its popular Summer Tiki tour that blazed through Whakatāne, the Kāpiti Coast, Whanganui and finally Tauranga with partners Classic Flyers NZ.

Bringing this grand dame of the air to the towns and communities Air Chathams operates in is always a thrill and we love to see how passengers rise to the occasion, with many donning period costumes and making it a day to remember.

For some of the more senior flyers on the tour it is a trip down memory lane, while for the youngsters on board it is a fascinating glimpse back into the history of the golden age of air travel. And Kaitaia really is a piece of history.

The Douglas DC-3 origins can be traced back to the early 1930s and its reliable, long-distance reach and large capacity soon began to revolutionise air travel, particularly in the United States. But it was as a war bird that the DC-3 really hit its stride; in venerable C-47 guise it took part in nearly every theatre of the Second World War, playing a crucial role in delivering paratroops on D-Day and even helping to feed a city during the 1948 Berlin Airlift.

With the conflict over, the thousands of C-47s that had helped win the war were pressed into civilian use around the world, and from the Far East to Africa and the Americas the formidable

war birds became reliable work horses; so much so that by the late 1940s DC-3s accounted for 80% of the world’s airline traffic.

In New Zealand, the DC-3 did everything from carrying cargo to mapping the nation and dusting crops, but more importantly for many Kiwis it was their introduction to flight. Visit any regional airport worth its salt and they’ll be black and white photographs of yesteryear, invariably with sleek silver DCs parked with their noses pointing into the sky and the future; they got Kiwis up, up and away and that’s probably why the DC-3 still has a place in our collective hearts.

Air Chathams’ DC-3 – originally known to her friends as ZK-AWP – was built in 1945 and joined the Royal New Zealand Air Force fleet at the end of World War II. She spent her early days bringing servicemen back from the Pacific warzone and then flew military supply drops in New Zealand, but she was soon back in action during the Malayan Campaign. In 1952 she once again hung up her uniform and joined the New Zealand National Airways Corporation or NAC, the forerunner of Air New Zealand domestic, and it was at this time that she picked up her civilian moniker of ZK-AWP. In 1963 she underwent refurbishment to DC-3 Skyliner status with larger windows, a better public address system, sound proofing, new carpets, curtains, and name – Kaitaia –and a shiny NAC paint job. And that is the livery she now proudly wears again.

Getting her back to this condition has been a long road however; after leaving NAC, Kaitaia ended up in Western Samoa, worked as a topdressing aircraft, and then – gulp – narrowly avoided being broken up in 1986 when her then owners tossed a coin to decide which of their two DCs was headed for ‘permanent retirement’!

For many years she flew freight – always a DC-3 standby – and her name and ownership changed several times.

It was as a war bird that the DC - 3 really hit its stride

Douglas DC-3 Dakota airplane, taking off from Royal New Zealand Air Force Station, Whenuapai, Waitakere City. Whites Aviation Ltd :Photographs. Ref: WA-13607-F. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand.

horses

Fitted with long-range fuel tanks she crossed the Tasman and flew outback tours around Australia before relocating to Tonga, which is where Craig Emeny, the founder of Air Chathams, found her in a somewhat neglected state in 2009. Craig purchased the aircraft and after an extensive overhaul she returned to service in 2010, with 48,862 hours logged, and in 2012 flew back to New Zealand where once more she became ZK-AWP and was registered to Air Chathams. But hauling freight and dusting crops is no longer Kaitaia’s calling. Instead, she is to be found up where she belongs, out and about in regional New Zealand showing Kiwis what it was like to take to the skies when the going was good.

The formidable war birds became reliable work

James Paul (left) and Tim Booth.

School of Rock

SO MANY OF US HAVE BEEN THERE

A childhood passion or teenage infatuation with music offers a tantalizing glimpse of a glamorous future based around playing with like-minded musos on stages big and small, near and far - and then life gets in the way. Or, in an equally common scenario, a love of music stalls in the bedroom because there just are no like-minded musos around. If only there was a way to connect, to reignite the spark, to take things to the next level.

Well, now there is. Whanganui’s Black Sand Music Retreats is the brainchild of professional musicians Tim Booth and James Paul, who have been playing in bands together or apart since they were 14. They now have 20 years of experience on stage and in the music industry, and regularly teach across Whanganui and Rangitikei. Both are local Whanganui boys whose careers took them to Wellington and beyond, but after getting back to their roots and their hometown in 2021 they felt that something was missing, a something they felt they could supply.

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“There are so many musicians out there who are learning and playing, but just by themselves, in their bedrooms or garages,” says James. “And really, one of the greatest things about music is playing with other people, learning from other people, and being around other musicians. It’s infectious, and tuition opportunities for hobbyist musicians are well overdue for a reboot. To date, music tutors have placed too much emphasis on developing individual skill-sets at the expense of teaching students to form a groove in a band.”

“We’ve been mentored by some of the best musicians around, both nationally and internationally, and really wanted to share these musical experiences with others. We’d always wanted to open a music school, because there is nothing more satisfying than bringing people together to make music, and once we were back in Whanganui, we felt the time was right.”

Opening hours: Mon - Fri 10am to 5pm Sat 10am to 3pm

139 Guyton St, Whanganui

www.lastation.co.nz

James Paul (left) and Tim Booth.

Both are local Whanganui boys whose careers took them to Wellington and beyond

The weekend retreats bring together small groups of musicians - usually guitar, bass, and keyboards, with drumming supplied as the anchor, but horns and strings have also featured. The retreats are held upstairs in the grand old iconic Whanganui Chronicle building, but we won’t lower ourselves to any Stairway to Heaven reference and instead

we’ll skip to the more important facts that the retreats are based around one-on-one lessons, songwriting tutorials, band coaching, and finally – the best bit – playing together as a band and recording a track.

“We have people from all levels,” James says, “from beginners right up to quite advanced musicians who just

want to get out of their comfort zone and try something new. And it’s really great to see how people go from being really nervous when the retreats begin to have a real buzz about them by the time we start recording on the Sunday. We’ve had people who write their own music and working their songs up as a band really puts a smile on everyone’s faces.”

“I think what people get out of it is kind of two or three-fold,” James says. “There are the learnings you get from the one-to-one sessions, but you also learn so much from playing with others, and then there is the injection of motivation this gives you, whether to go away and practice more and with more direction, or to start working in a different way. We often see people coming back a few months later to get that motivational hit again, and that is really rewarding for us.”

“Many people think they are not at a high enough level, but the retreats are for all levels – and there really is no better way of advancing than by playing with others. We’ve had guitarists who only know a couple of chords working together with

people who have been playing for ten years but it still works – that exists in many really successful bands, and it brings a certain dynamic.”

“It’s a brave thing for most people to sign up for. Everyone is a bundle of nerves - and we get that. People think that they are not good enough, but you come here to learn and enjoy the experience of playing together – so we kind of try to emphasize that people shouldn’t wait till they have mastered the instrument before going on a retreat: the retreat is part of the journey to getting where you want to be.”

So go on - be brave and sign up for a Black Sands Music Retreat! It’s a great way to get your groove back on - and a wonderful excuse to spend some time in the wonderful city of Whanganui while you’re at it.

“There is nothing more satisfying than bringing people together to make music”

INTO THE Wild

Most Kiwis think of summer as the holiday season, but the bracing mid-year months are the perfect time for a wild winter getaway, and the Mōtu River in the eastern Bay of Plenty is the perfect backdrop.

MŌTU

IS TE REO MĀORI FOR ISOLATED OR CUT OFF,

and it is a pretty apt moniker. Because while there are many places around the country that like to play up their off-thebeaten-track credentials, the Mōtu River and it’s environs really do have one of the best timeless, untouched qualities to be found in the North Island. And it’s just a hop, skip and a jump down Highway 35 from Whakatāne.

The river rises in the south-western side of the Raukūmara Range and flows into the Bay of Plenty 20 miles north-east of Ōpōtiki through some spectacular, mountainous landscape with breathtaking views and that – slightly eerie – sense of wonder of what lies around the next river bend. Thanks to its steep river valleys the Mōtu was ear-marked for a series of dam sites to be developed to provide hydroelectric power and some work on these was undertaken before – thankfully – the project was abandoned in the mid-60s and the river remained untamed.

The forest-clad hills also attracted attention, with several sawmills being established in the 1800s and a road cut through the challenging terrain by some truly hardy souls. Parts of that road and the horse tracks that linked into it are now mountain bike trails, covering an impressive 48km of twisting gravel roadway reaching a highpoint of 780m. Administered by the Mōtu Trails Trust, this is one of the Great Rides on the New Zealand Cycle Trail and is a must for any serious biker.

But for those of us that want to get up close and personal with the river without resorting to peddle pushing, look no further than a Mōtu River Jet tour. Owned and operated by local man Mark Looney, the jet boat tours can be as adrenalinpumping thrilling or as relaxed and sedate as you want, and best of all they take you into some of the most remote and untouched parts of the river.

“The river travels through the last significant area of untracked native bush in the North Island,” says Mark, “and the banks are covered with unique and rare flora, and we give a commentary on this and also the historical value of the river. It is a chance to see what the country looked like in pre-colonial times and also to think about those early pioneers who made some epic journeys.”

Mark is what he calls a ‘late bloomer’ to the ways of the river, having spent most of his life running an automotive workshop in Ōpōtiki. But – in a train of events most of us can only dream of –his hobby grew into a passion and then into a profession and he has now been operating the tours for seven years together with his wife and son. Late bloomer he may be, but Mark certainly knows his stuff, so much so that he is a part of the local search and rescue team and often alternates between carrying out guided tours for visitors and rescuing lost hikers.

“It is a chance to see what the country looked like in pre-colonial times”

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Most of the people doing the tours are from around the North Island, Mark says, and are really looking to get into native bush. “The Mōtu River tour is all about nature. It’s a chance to step back in time and visit places that are off the beaten track like the Makakaho Falls which are pretty amazing, and also to go into the tunnel that was built for the proposed hydro scheme. You really do feel like you’ve left the everyday world behind.”

Mark also runs jet boat tours on the Matahina Dam, which while stunningly beautiful is also a glimpse of what the Mōtu may have become if the dam projects there had gone ahead.

“Matahina has a very special kind of beauty and stillness,” Mark says, “but it is also very popular with people who want the flat-out thrill of jet boating. And it really delivers: adrenalin rush guaranteed!”

A different rush is also on offer via hunting tours that Mōtu River Jet are now offering. “The Mōtu is beautiful, and it also has some real back to basic hunting,” Mark says. “What are the conditions like? Rugged! But that’s part of the attraction. We can drop off and pick up groups if they are experienced, and if not, we can act as guides, staying in a hut we have or in designated campsites. There is great hunting for Red Deer from September to December, spring hunting, and March to April roar hunting and pigs. There has recently been a pest eradication programme around the Mōtu, and that usually sees the pigs returning in numbers. For some it’s the thrill of the hunt. For others it’s a way to put food on the table. Either way, it’s a pretty nice day out of the office!”

Mōtu River and it’s environs really do have one of the best timeless, untouched qualities to be found in the North Island.

Living Legacies

MYTHS OF MUTINY AND THE BOUNTY ABOUND in the popular history of Norfolk Island, but the reality is just as colourful - and so is the modern-day celebration of the Island’s past, present and future found each year on Bounty Day.

Most of us are familiar with the story, though often through a Hollywood lens, of how Fletcher Christian and some of the disgruntled crew of HMS Bounty, tired of the anger and intolerance of the ship’s captain, William Bligh, rose up and set the good captain and his supporters adrift in an open boat. And for many that is where the story ends; in fact it was just the beginning of several stories, stories of how Bligh made it back to England after an arduous open-boat voyage, about how he set in motion a manhunt that would see many of the wayward crew captured and some hanged, and of how a hardy few managed to evade the Royal Navy and go on to establish communities that continue to flourish to this day.

Norfolk Island’s Bounty Day is the Island’s way of acknowledging those stories and of recognising its roots. Held each year on 8 June, it is also known as Foundation or Anniversary Day, which are

perhaps more accurate names as HMS Bounty never saw Norfolk Island, having been burned on Pitcairn Island in 1790; commemoration of that event is marked on Pitcairn, also as Bounty Day, every 23 January.

Both celebrations are more about the communities and cultures that grew from the mutiny than the ship itself however. On Norfolk Island, Bounty Day is a chance for everyone to get together, catchup, dress up - and have a bit of a party.

“It is a day to come together to celebrate the arrival of our ancestors from our other tiny homeland Pitcairn Island,” says Karenne Gatehouse (nee Quintal), who is a fifth generation descendant and counts the occasion as her favourite day in the calendar. “As tiny as Norfolk Island is, often you can go for weeks without seeing anyone – so there is much happiness and laughter and catching up.

Images credit Norfolk Island Tourism

“Often Norfolk Islanders living away come home especially for Bounty Day, and it is a chance to be grateful for such a wonderful heritage and have pride in the 167 years of ensuring our Island and waters are cared for so that future generations of Islanders can live here, and do so with the same pride. But it is also a time for humility and to never forget our origins from callous mutiny 234 years ago, the violence and death of the mutineers in the first few years and the transition to the peaceful and loving community our surviving Polynesian foremothers created.”

“It is a day to come together to celebrate the arrival of our ancestors”

THE CELEBRATION OF BOUNTY DAY has now in fact become Bounty Week, with a ball held on the Saturday before 8 June and church services themed on local history held over this weekend. The big day itself is a public holiday and festivities begin with Islanders, dressed as their ancestors would have been coming from 1856 Pitcairn Island, assembling at the original landing point of the Kingston Pier for a re-enactment of the arrival, followed by a procession past the Island’s Cenotaph with a stop to remember the fallen, then on to the cemetery to offer thanks for their homeland and the memory of those departed. Morning tea and community announcements follow, together with the friendly rivalry of an award for the best presented of the eight family groups and the best beard competition - after all, the journey by boat in 1856 had taken five weeks, so beards were de rigueur! Then there is a walk across to the ruins of the old British jail where a community picnic is held on the grass.

“Most families take traditional foods of pork, chicken, fish, salads, fruit, pies, puddings and cakes,” says Karenne, “and a welcoming speech is given by our President of the Council of Elders, then Grace is sung and feasting begins.

Both celebrations are more about the communities and cultures that grew from the mutiny.

During the afternoon there are Island dance displays and family groups enjoy ukulele and singing. Cricket is also played on the adjacent cricket ground, the children have a wonderful time playing - and the adults manage a doze or simply lay back and chat!”

Visitors to the island are welcome to join in. While the morning tea is for descendants only, non-Islanders can attend the Ball (entry is free) and dance the evening away and you can follow the procession and join the singing, mingle and chat and enjoy the displays of Island dance; local tour companies and some hotels provide food and picnic facilities – so book in early! - it is a fantastic glimpse into a wonderful community with a fantastic atmosphere.

“Bounty Day when I was a child was the best day of the year, better even than birthdays and Christmas!” says Karenne. “Occasionally over the years I have heard children exclaim that they love Bounty Day the best and this is so heartwarming. I still love it - as much for the gathering of people as for the historic aspect. For me it is a carefree, happy day, with lots of food, lots of talking, laughing and thankfulness. The highlight for me - evolve as it may - is that the real ‘Bounty” of Anniversary Day is that it continues to be celebrated and the significance of the day has not been overlooked or diluted over the years.”

And that is something we can all celebrate.

Our fleet

Air Chathams has a fleet of 11 aircraft, ranging from single-engine light planes to turbo-prop passenger aircraft capable of speeds of over 500km/h. With this diverse fleet we can offer everything from scenic flights to charters, passenger services and freight.

ATR 72

Our newest regional airliner

Speed 500 kilometres per hour

Max Altitude 25,000 feet

Pressurised Cabin Yes

No. of Pilots 2

No. of Flight Attendants 2

No. of Seats 68

Inflight Catering Available

Toilet Yes

Saab 340

Our Swedish princess

Speed 470 kilometres per hour

Max Altitude 25,000 feet

Pressurised Cabin Yes

No. of Pilots 2

No. of Flight Attendants 1

No. of Seats 34

Inflight Catering Available

Toilet Yes

Douglas DC-3

Our pride and joy. This remarkable aircraft has certainly ‘been there and done that’.

Speed 240 kilometres per hour

Max Altitude 10,000 feet

Pressurised Cabin No

No. of Pilots 2

No. of Flight Attendants 1

No. of Seats 28

Inflight Catering Available

Toilet Yes

Fairchild Metroliner

Safe, fast, and efficient commuter aircraft

Speed 450 kilometres per hour

Max Altitude 25,000 feet

Pressurised Cabin Yes

No. of Pilots 2

No. of Flight Attendants 0

No. of Seats 18

Inflight Catering Limited

Toilet No

Cessna 206

The Chatham Islands workhorse

Speed 230 kilometres per hour

Max Altitude 10,000 feet

Pressurised Cabin No

No. of Pilots 1

No. of Flight Attendants 0

No. of Seats 5

Inflight Catering No

Toilet No

The airline that brings New Zealand together

Air Chathams is family owned and operated and is New Zealand’s largest privately owned airline, flying to some of the country’s best regional destinations. For more than 35 years we’ve been bringing New Zealand together.