I stood transfixed for a few minutes only to have my reverie broken CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: A local boatman at Chiao Lan Lake; clear tom yum soup. OPPOSITE PAGE TOP: Over-sized parasols line the sand bar linking the islands of Koh Nang Yuan. OPPOSITE PAGE BELOW: Seafood is widely available at affordable prices along Chaweng Beach.
evidence suggests that the ancient city of Surat Thani merged with the Kingdom of Srivijaya, which was an important centre for Buddhist expansion during the 7th century until its decline in the 13th century. Srivijayan architecture can be clearly seen in the style of building and ornamentation of the pagodas. The main pagoda is surrounded by smaller pagodas placed in the four cardinal directions and guarded by statues of Buddha at all four walls of the perimetre. On the other side of the courtyard, three larger Buddha statues sit silently in the open air. Across the pagoda, the Chaiya National Museum showcases archeological and historical finds from Chaiya to pre-historic artifacts from the Dvravati, Srivijaya, Lop Buri, Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods.
A CALM OUTCOME Just like other parts of Thailand, Buddhism plays an important role in the local milieu. Being surrounded by these ancient monuments, I too experienced an inexplicable stirring. I had knelt countless times before Buddhist shrines during my many, many visits to Thailand. However, getting so close to history and being totally enveloped by the spiritual serenity was almost
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overwhelming – a call to believe, to surrender and to accept a larger, greater force at action. Peace and calm descended on me that day.
ISLAND GETAWAY Having been spiritually reenergised, the next day, I took a ferry across the gulf to Koh Samui, certain that I was entering a realm that was dedicated to pure physical pleasure. Koh Samui is a far cry from the laidback atmosphere of Surat Thani, but a remarkable destination nonetheless. A couple I know visited the island once, fell deeply in love there and soon after got married. Though years have rolled past, they still fondly reminisce about the island and how it nudged them in the right direction towards matrimony. Koh Samui is all that you see in travel brochures and then some. As diverse as the visiting population itself, the options for accommodations alone range from simple beach huts to super luxury hideaways. I stayed at the Bandara Resort & Spa on Bo Phut beach. Flanked by two wings of well-appointed suites and rooms, the resort’s pools stretched all the way to the beach, lined by swaying coconut trees with occasional bursts of violet and mandarin bougainvilleas.