Ainoa Kessada Navarro Chambud BA Fashion marketing & communication, Level 5, 2019-20 5FAMK003C Visual and video techniques - CWK1 Teacher/s: Nicolas Godon
INDEX 01 - Anlysis 02 - Strategy 03 - Editorial 04 - Catalog 05 - Website 06 - Bibliography
01 Analysis
Corporate Profile Maison Margiela is a French fashion House. It was founded in Paris in 1988 by Belgian designer Martin Margiela. The house produces both haute couture-inspired artisanal collections and ready-to-wear collections, with the former influencing the designs of the latter. The brand takes a cerebral approach to deconstructing, reinventing and redefining men’s and womenswear silhouettes, often fusing the two genders. They include one-ofa-kind garments created from recycled and deconstructed pieces in the House’s Parisian ateliers. Also, Maison Margiela is known for using unconventional materials and avant-garde designs and for holding fashion shows in unusual settings, such as an empty metro station. Martin Margiela resigned as creative designer in 2009, and in 2014, the British designer John Galliano was appointed as the House’s Creative Director. Galliano’s vision mixes conceptualism with artistry and mystery with modern elegance.
Market position Daring and ambiguous, the Maison designs Haute Couture, women’s and men’s readyto-wear, small leather goods, footwear, fine jewelry, fragrances, interior design and MM6, its contemporary line. The Margiela codes are made up of a range of numbers from zero to 23, with each number referring to a particular type of product — like footwear or fine jewellery.
Deconstruction and heritage go hand in hand to create designs that showcase fashion as an art of meaning rather than a cult of personality.
Since the opening of its first boutique in Tokyo in 2000, Maison Margiela has developed a strong online retail presence and boutique network worldwide through signature store design and a unique customer experience. Additionally the brand is present in key department and multibrand stores throughout Europe, the US, and Asia.
Current Situation Maison Margiela is among the top luxury brands. It is part of the Italian group OTB, which owns brands such as Diesel, Amiri and Viktor & Rolf. Since Galliano arrived to the house in 2014, the brand has doubled its revenues, with handbags and sneakers being the main source of income. One of their most popular products are the Tabi boots, the splittoe shoes that reference the Japanese worker´s shoes from the 15th century. The brand shows its Ready-to-wear, Menswear and Haute Couture collections every season in Paris during Fashion Weeks. The designer uses the haute platform to explore gender fluidity, high-tech fabrications that interact with smart phones, and new experiments in garment reconfiguration. The Haute Couture collections, rather than to offer products, serve as the top of a creative pyramid which inspire the ready-to-wear and accessories lines.
Martin Margiela wanted to remain anonymous. He wanted the clothes to speak for themselves, without intermediaries.
The Maison’s plain white label is joined by a new label: marked in black with numbers 0 – 23, the circled digit indicates to which line the garment corresponds.
Communication background
Galliano’s vision mixes conceptualism with artistry and mystery with modern elegance.
The Margiela codes
Architecture - The MM boutiques follow the Haussman style, combining a classic, surreal and industrial aesthetic.
Asymmetry & Deconstruction – inspired by Japanese traditional design codes
Futurism
Minimalism vs stravaganza – transforming the Haute Coute stravaganza into minimalistic ready-to-wear collections
Models’ faces are often obscured by fabric or long hair to direct attention to the clothes and design
02 Strategy
Communication task Even though Maison Margiela is known for its anonymity, it also brings up political discussions through its designs. An example is their SS20 collection, where Galliano referred back into the history books, studying significant figures who fought for the freedom many of us enjoy today. Besides, the brand is very experimental when it comes to materials, and it has used recycled fabrics for its garments in the past. Now, the House wants to take a step further. Taking into account all the effects that climate change and overconsumption are bringing up, the planet is screaming for a change. And so is Margiela. The brand wants to take responsibility to contribute to a more sustainable world. Therefore, Maison Margiela is introducing “Project Z”: the line that will change the world.
“Project Z” As it is well known, plastic is one of the most polluting materials, due to the huge amount of waste generated. For this reason, Maison Margiela is choosing to only use recycled plastic for its “Project Z”-line. The brand will be collaborating with The Ocean Cleanup, a non-government organization that develops technology to extract plastic pollution from the oceans. There will be two annual genderless collections. The designs will follow the Margiela codes, mixing an artistic but still wearable style. Besides, the brand will offer an upcoming designer each season, the opportunity to work hand in hand with Galliano for the development of this collection.
Target Age: 20-35 Gender: genderless Region: worldwide, focus on big cities Interests: fashion, sustainability, art, design Purchasing power: high (> 3,500 â‚Ź/ month) Shopping drivers: quality and differentiation Style: avantgarde, unique
- Take responsibility to contribute to a more sustainable world.
Goals
- Increase engagement and brand loyalty - Build a strong community
Inspir
ation
What not to do.
03 Editorial
The Photographer
ZENG WU Zeng Wu made his photographic debut back in 2013. Since then, the Shanghai-based image-maker has become one of the most well known experimental Chinese contemporary photographers. Often featuring sharp portraits and raw shots, Wu’s work gives us a glimpse of Chinese youth subcultures, and makes us reflect on fashion’s artistic paradigm through his futuristic aesthetic and saturated hues.
The Stylist MONICA MONG Once collaborated with various world’s top fashion designers, celebrities and models, Monica Mong is regular guest to international fashion events. Graduated in Bachelor of Communication program with a major in journalism from University of Science, Malaysia, then pursued Fashion Styling and Fashion Photography in renown Central Saint Martins in London, Monica Mong first cut her teeth as an intern and freelancer for two years at Cittå Bella Magazine, before moving to V MAGAZINE Malaysia to be a fashion writer and a fashion stylist. In NUYOU Malaysia for eight and half years, she has honed her eye for fashion sense with the opportunity as the Fashion Director.
The Models
ADUT AKECH
LEON DAME
WANG CHENMING
HUNTER SCHAFER
The Makeup
by: KANAKO TAKASE
The Hair
by: BOBBY TOCHTERMAN
the EDI TOR IAL
04 Catalog
TOKYO Project Z Ref. : Z01TOKYO Price: 950 $
JACKET
BEIJING SUIT Project Z Ref. : Z01BEIJING Price: 850 $
SINGAPORE DRESS Project Z Ref. : Z01SINGAPORE Price: 650 $
05 Website
Since Project Z is an ambitious project, it will have its own website. It will include information about the project, a moodboard with the inspiration for the current collection and information about how to be part of the project. It will be the platform that will allow designers to participate on the contest. https://thezproject.fashion.blog
06 References
Dazed. (2020). Five Chinese fashion photographers to put on your radar now. [online] Available at: https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/41834/1/upcoming-new-chinese-fashion-photographers-leslie-zhang-luo-yang [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. En.wikipedia.org. (2020). The Ocean Cleanup. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_ Ocean_Cleanup [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. Maisonmargiela.com. (2020). The House | Maison Margiela. [online] Available at: https://www.maisonmargiela.com/es/lamaison [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. TEDxPetalingStreet. (2020). Monica Mong - TEDxPetalingStreet. [online] Available at: http://www.tedxpetalingstreet.com/en/portfolio-item/monica-mong/ [Accessed 24 Jan. 2020]. Otb.net. (2020). [online] Available at: https://www.otb.net/data/press_42993/fiche/354/wwd_john_galliano_renews_contract_at_maison_margiela_ce3d0.pdf [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020]. ssense. (2020). Between Two Toes: The History of Margiela’s Cult Tabi. [online] Available at: https://www. ssense.com/en-us/editorial/fashion/the-uncanny-appeal-of-margielas-tabi-boots [Accessed 22 Jan. 2020].