International Spirits Challenge 2007

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The global choice for drinks buyers | October 2007 | www.drinksint.com

International Spirits Challenge

2007

Drinks International


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Better than ever Everyone’s looking for a point of difference. The pace of the action in the drinks market seems to get faster by the month, and the range of choice for the consumer shows no signs of shrinking, especially among the white spirits. It’s all reflected in the number of award winners in the 2007 International Spirits Challenge: up by more than half this year to 589 across all categories. The job of the judges (see page 7) was consequently even more demanding than ever, with Whisky category chairman John Ramsay commenting: “The second day was particularly hard. We were struggling with the numbers but we were able to work in conjunction with the backroom team and get things organised.” The Scotch Whisky category dominates the ISC proceedings, and this year saw in excess of 190 awards among the malt styles and more than 70 in the blends – up from 160 last year. Brandy category chairman Neil Mathieson was equally impressed with the standard of entries. “In the judges’ minds, this year’s tasting was possibly the best yet,” he says. “More entries of a higher quality, many more medal winners from a wider number of producers and well-

organised flights that meant each entry could be considered fairly within its own peer group.” Steve Hoyles, Rum category chairman, agrees, adding: “The standard of entries was higher than last year and this is evident by the number of awards presented.” The smaller categories are expected to grow again in 2008, and this will mean yet more demands on the judging panels. “It is important to recruit a good spread of judges from a wide range within the industry – and from as many different countries as is practical,” says Hoyles. “However, it is also important that we attract high-calibre judges who have a good knowledge of the industry as well as expertise in their own particular subjects.” An innovation for the 2007 ISC sees 16 brands named Category Champions – a new accolade that rewards the best performing brand as judged against the others in the competition, regardless of medal status (see page 10). The eight Trophy winners are also judged as Category Champions, as they represent the highest standard attainable in their respective categories. The ISC award ceremony was held on Sept 26 at Claridge’s in London.

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Judges Trophy winners Category champions Special awards Scotch whisky Whiskies of the world

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Cognac, Armagnac and brandy White spirits & vodka Gin Tequila & other white spirits Liqueurs & specialities Rum

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Judges

The Panels Top left: White Spirits Top right: Whiskies Bottom left: Brandy Bottom right: Liqueurs

Whiskies

White spirits

Brandy

Rum

Liqueurs

Chairman John Ramsay John started at the Strathclyde Distillery in 1966, joining William Lawson Distillers in 1971 and moving to Highland Distillers in 1990. He is now master blender for the Edrington Group.

Chairman Ian Wisniewski Ian is a freelance drinks writer and broadcaster, specialising in spirits. He has written for numerous newspapers and magazines and is the author of 10 books, including Classic Malt Whisky, Classic Tequila and Vodka: Discovering, Exploring, Enjoying.

Chairman Neil Mathieson Neil joined the wine trade at 20, setting up Eaux de Vie in 1985 to specialise in Cognac and Armagnac. Eaux de Vie now distributes a range of spirits, and Mathieson is currently a buyer and blender for the company.

Chairman Steve Hoyles Steve started at the House of Seagram in Liverpool in 1969, working mainly in the laboratory on brands including Captain Morgan. In 1990 he moved to United Rum Merchants and took over responsibility for Lamb’s Navy and Tia Maria. He joined Allied Domecq in 1993 and is now technical laboratory and sensory manager at Chivas Bros.

Chairman Patrick van Zuidam In 1975 Patrick’s father set up his own distillery in the Netherlands, where Patrick started working in his school holidays. Following years of training he is now master distiller and managing director of Zuidam Distillers.

Judges Robert Hicks – master blender, Scotch whisky, Beam Global UK Seiichi Koshimizu – chief blender, Suntory, where he has worked since 1973 Billy Leighton – master blender, Irish Distillers Group Richard Paterson – master blender, Whyte & Mackay Jimmy Russell – master distiller, Wild Turkey Distillery, Lawrenceburg Kentucky Shigeo Sato – executive adviser and master blender, Nikka Whisky Colin Scott – master blender, Chivas Bros David Stewart – master blender and malt master, William Grant & Sons

Judges Olga Bubnova – production director, Parliament vodka, Russia Halvor Heuch – master blender and vice president spirits, Arcus Norway Steve Manktelow – head of operations, Ignite Group Desmond Payne – master distiller, Beefeater Alexander Zaytsev – director of Capitale StyleCo and chief of the spirits commission at the International Wine & Spirits Competition in Russia (Also pictured but not a judge is Irina Sergeeva, quality control director, Parliament World Group)

Judges Kobus Gelderblom – brandy master, KWV, South Africa Louis Nomdedeu – head of research, Rémy Martin, where he has worked since 1974 Simon Palmer – cellar master, Cognac ABK6 Olivier Paultes – cellar master, Cognac Frapin since 1987 Dr Caroline Snyman – business director spirits, Distell

Judges Dave Broom – freelance drinks writer and winner of the Glenfiddich Spirits Writer of the Year award Ian Burrell – UK rum ambassador and owner of Cottons’ Rum Shack, London Peter Martin – regional manager, J Wray & Nephew Carsten Vlierboom – master blender, E&A Scheer, Amsterdam

International Spirits Challenge

Judges Peter Hallgarten – specialist blender Steve Hoyles – technical laboratory and sensory manager, Chivas Bros Matthijs Jansen – senior manager R&D, QC and laboratory, Koninklijke de Kuyper Adeline Loizeau (not pictured) – Cognac quality manger, Grand Marnier Micaela Pallini – vicepresident, Pallini

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Trophy winners

That’s the spirit Once the medals have been awarded, the ISC judges re-taste all the Golds in order to identify any potential Trophy winners. ISC Trophies are awarded at the discretion of the judges – and only to spirits that are truly outstanding examples of their kind

BALLANTINE’S

THE FAMOUS GROUSE

30 Year Old

30 Year Old

George Ballantine could never have imagined that his name would eventually become one of the world’s best-known whisky brands when he founded the family grocery shop in Edinburgh in 1827. Nearly two centuries later, this blend of hand-picked malt and grain whiskies – aged mainly in Bourbon casks for a minimum of 30 years – has won awards galore, adding this ISC Trophy to another gained three years ago. Spirits brands looking for the secret of consistency could learn a thing or two from Ballantine’s – master blender Sandy Hyslop, appointed in 2006, is only the fifth person to hold the position in the company’s long and illustrious history.

It’s a credit to master distiller John Ramsay and his team that a brand selling more than 30 million bottles of whisky in some 100 countries – and which is the world’s seventh largest Scotch brand – can conjure up and win acclaim for such a luxury product. Created for international markets, the 30 Year Old has Grouse’s core Highland Park and Macallan malts at its heart and, although the name states the minimum ageing requirement, the packaging states that “many rest for considerably longer”. Its pineapple, citrus and cedarwood nose, and rich, oaky, mixedpeel palate command a price heading for $300 in the US market.

SUNTORY HIBIKI

DELAMAIN VINTAGE

30 Year Old

1972

The Suntory logo is called the hibiki and symbolises the Japanese company’s quest to foster harmony and happiness among the people of the world – and one of its tools for doing so is the Hibiki whisky range. Launched in 1989 – 60 years after Suntory founder Shinjiro Torii introduced Japan’s first domestically-produced whisky – Hibiki is Suntory’s top blended whisky brand. The 30 Year Old is the jewel in its crown, commanding super-premium prices in international markets and gaining plaudits from whisky buffs and competition judges the world over, including a previous ISC Trophy in 2004.

One of the few remaining family-owned Cognac houses, Delamain subscribes to the notion that less is more. It neither makes wine nor distils it, choosing instead to focus on the patient art of maturation. And this isn’t just any old Cognac either. Only batches of young spirit from the best estates in the Grande Champagne region are used. They are stored in seasoned French oak in a special cellar dedicated to vintage Cognacs for 30 years or more. The finished spirits are an expression not just of their place of origin, but, like the finest wines, the year in which the grapes were grown. The sought-after 1972 is regarded as one of the finest of all.

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KWV

WYBOROWA

10 Year Old

Vodka

South Africa’s KWV claims to use the tradition and style of Cognac in making its brandies, and is doing it to the point where it can compete with almost everything the French region has to offer. Produced for more than 60 years, KWV 10 Year Old is the wine and spirits producer’s most famous mark, leading the premium category in its domestic market. The brandy is double distilled in Worcester at what is claimed to be the largest potstill facility in the southern hemisphere, equipped with 120 stills. Maturation in small French oak barrels follows for a decade before bottling. A consistent award winner at competitions around the world, KWV 10 Year Old also took a Gold medal at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition earlier this year.

Pernod Ricard’s Polish vodka brand is one of the few in the world made purely from rye and this, coupled with a double-step distillation process, gives it a distinct grainy aroma, nutty flavour and creamy texture, rather than the neutrality that some vodkas attain, or even aspire to. The vodka won its first competition, run by a Polish newspaper, in 1823, at which the chair of judges pronounced it to be “exquisite”, or “wyborowa” in Polish. The name stuck and has become a byword for fine Polish vodka ever since. Wyborowa is faithful to its provenance, using only rye grown close to the distillery in Poznan – a centre for Polish vodka production since the 16th century – and water drawn from its own ancient well.

MARTIN MILLER’S

APPLETON ESTATE EXTRA

Westbourne Strength

12 Year Old

Martin Miller’s is one of a new breed of highquality gin brands that have combined traditional production methods with a confident modern attitude to shake up the category. A botanical infusion of Tuscan juniper, Seville citrus, Florentine orris root, coriander, liquorice, cinnamon, cassia, nutmeg and angelica is distilled in a copper pot still aged 100-plus. Then comes the twist. The gin is sent from the distillery in the industrial heartland of the English Midlands to the glacier fields of Iceland, where it’s brought to bottling strength with some of the purest water on the planet. Westbourne Strength is the premium version, bottled at 45.2 per cent for a fuller juniper flavour and a rich spiciness.

Jamaica’s Appleton Estate has been making rum since 1749, so it’s no surprise that its expertise and experience is enough to put it ahead of its field. Appleton Estate Extra was created by master blender Joy Spence, the first woman to hold the title in the rum industry. Appleton rums are distilled from molasses sourced from the Jamaican sugar cane in Appleton’s own on-site sugar factory. Despite the 12 Year Old moniker, indicating the minimum age of rums in the super-premium blend, some of the rums in it have been aged for as long as 18 years in once-used Bourbon casks, giving richness and vanilla smoothness to a spicy and orange citrus-like blend.

International Spirits Challenge

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Category champions

Champions lead by example An innovation for 2007, the judges have selected a Champion in 16 different categories. Once the competition medals were finalised the top medal winners from each category were assessed against each other to decide the best in each class. All eight Trophy winners are also Category Champions

Blended Scotch Whisky

Distillers Scotch Whisky

Ballantine’s 30 Year Old Scotch Whisky Chivas Brothers

The Famous Grouse Malt Whisky Aged 30 Years The Edrington Group

Independent Scotch Whisky

Japanese Whisky

Glen Turner 12 Ans La Martiniquaise

Suntory Whisky Hibiki 30 Year Old Suntory

Own Label Scotch Whisky

Cognac

Sainsbury’s Islay Malt Sainsbury’s

Delamain Vintage 1972 Cognac Société Jacques Bollinger

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South African Brandy

Shochu

KWV 10 Year Old Brandy KWV

Sorekara Sweet Potato Shochu Suntory

Vodka

Liqueurs

Wyborowa Vodka Pernod Ricard

De Kuyper Sour Rhubarb Koninklijke de Kuyper

Gin

Dark Rum

Martin Miller’s Westbourne Strength Reformed Spirits

Appleton Estate Extra 12 Year Old Jamaica Rum J Wray & Nephew

Tequila

White Rum

Cazadores Tequila Añejo Bacardi

Rubi Rey Bacardi

Aquavit

Rum Agricole

Aalborg Taffel Akvavit V&S Distillers

Savanna Agricole Vieux Single Cask Distillerie de Savanna

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Special awards

Rewarding excellence in the spirits world Distiller of the Year Chivas Brothers It’s been quite a year for Pernod Ricard’s Scotch whisky and gin operating company, with a clutch of ISC medals proving that a global relaunch for Beefeater and worldwide marketing pushes behind Chivas Regal and Ballantine’s haven’t taken the focus away from product quality. This year, operations and spirit supply director Douglas Cruickshank (pictured) is celebrating 40 years in the industry, having joined Imperial Distillery at the age of 15. As a whole, the Chivas distilling team is celebrating a Trophy and Gold medal for Ballantine’s 30 Year Old and a Gold for Aberlour 12 Year Old. There were Golds for Glenlivet 18 Year Old and Royal Salute Hundred Cask Selection No 1, while Silvers went to Scapa 14 Year Old, Strathisla 12 Year Old, three whiskies from Glenlivet, Ballantine’s 21 Year Old, Royal Salute Hundred Cask Selection No 3, and Beefeater 47 per cent abv. Ten other Bronzes bring the impressive medal haul to 23. pernod-ricard.com

Excellence in Craftsmanship Charles Braastad, master blender for the Delamain Cognac Vintage 1972 Charles Braastad and his cousin Patrick Peyrelongue are direct descendants of the original founders of the House of Delamain, representing the ninth generation of the family business. The cousins taste and select all Delamain Cognacs personally and, as managing director, Charles is responsible for the US, British and domestic French markets. An MBA in Poitiers was followed by two years working for French packaging companies in Glasgow before Braastad joined the family firm in 1996. Born in Jarnac, he is now 38 years old and has three daughters. “The aim of Delamain is that our customers could find the very same taste and aromas in our Cognacs, whether they are in London, New York or Shanghai,” says Braastad, “whether it is from 1920, 1975 or 2007.” The company focus is on premium quality, only producing Cognacs of XO level and older. “A Cognac has to have its own style, which has to be different from any other Cognac brand,” he says. “This is

the challenge every time we produce a bottle. The most difficult thing to achieve is consistency. This is what brings you recognition and notoriety among connoisseurs.” The 1972 Vintage Delamain was, says Braastad, a matter of “transgenerational team work”, selected by his great-uncle, “bred” by his father between 1980 and 2000, then watched and finally bottled by Braastad and Peyrelongue this year. Fewer than 1,000 bottles were produced. “Today I met an American in a very nice wine store in Paris,” says Braastad. “He was looking at a 1940 Delamain and asked me if I’d ever tasted it. I admitted that no, I never had. He then kindly bought the bottle and generously offered to share it with me. We tasted it together and, to our great pleasure, it was great and we could recognise the signature of Delamain. “I hope someone else from Delamain might have the same pleasure of tasting our 1972 in 2039!” delamain-cognac.com

New brand innovation La Fée XS Suisse (Green Utopia) When the Swiss government overturned a 1908 ban on absinthe production two years ago, French producer La Fée was quick to move in to take the product back to its historical roots. It set to work producing absinthe to the original recipe – a distillation of herbs, wormwood and a wine alcohol base – in the town of Couvet in the Val-de-Travers region of Switzerland, where absinthe was first produced in 1792. The result was La Fée XS Suisse, a super-premium absinthe distilled in small copper stills with a capacity of just over 100 bottles, the finished spirit reduced to its bottling strength by the addition of fresh Swiss mountain spring water. lafeeabsinthe.com

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Scotch whisky

GOLD Scotch single malts Aberlour 12 Year Old Chivas Brothers

Scotland’s heroes set the benchmark With more Scotch whiskies than ever and tough judging, it was even harder to win one of the top awards this year It’s well documented by now that surplus stocks of Scotch whisky are a thing of the past – witness the protracted sale of Whyte & Mackay to India’s UB Group, finally sealed in May this year. Part of the reason for this is the realisation that whisky brands hold great potential in an increasingly competitive global market, coupled with developing markets hungry for brands with a genuine heritage. A steep rise in the number of entries in the ISC Scotch whisky categories is a fair reflection of this, and the total number of Scotch whiskies winning awards, including Commended, rose from 163 in 2006 to 269 across all the subcategories this year, plus a further 61 from other parts of the world. “There’s a lot more premium-type products coming through now, and not just among the single

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malts,” says chairman of judges for whiskies, John Ramsay. “The blended [vatted] malt category in particular is growing quickly. In terms of medals overall, it was felt that we had maybe over-awarded Gold medals in the past. Malt whisky Golds came down considerably this year, from 34 to 14, so it’s even more of an achievement to win one this year.” It’s notable that there is no single malt whisky among the Trophies this year (see page 8), which could be construed as an indictment of the quality of single malts. “There is one Trophy for all malt whiskies,” explains Ramsay, “and it just happens that it went to a blended malt [The Famous Grouse Aged 30 Years] this year. “As a blender myself, I’d look at that as reflecting the skill of the blender. Blending can actually enhance

International Spirits Challenge

Glenfiddich Special Reserve 12 Year Old William Grant & Sons Highland Park 12 Year Old Highland Park 18 Year Old The Edrington Group Laphroaig 10 Year Old Laphroaig 15 Year Old Laphroaig 30 Year Old Beam Global Spirits & Wine Old Pulteney 12 Year Old Inver House Distillers Talisker 10 Year Old Talisker 18 Year Old Diageo The Dalmore 40 Year Old Highland Whyte & Mackay The Glenlivet 18 Year Old Chivas Brothers

Scotch vatted malts Prime Blue Morrison Bowmore Distillers The Famous Grouse Aged 30 Years The Edrington Group

Scotch blends Ballantine’s 30 Year Old Chivas Brothers Grant’s 25 Year Old Grant’s Deluxe 15 Year Old Grant’s Premium 12 Year Old Grant’s Rare Old 18 Year Old The Gordon Highlanders William Grant & Sons Royal Salute The Hundred Cask Selection No1 Chivas Brothers

the quality of the whisky in a holistic way: two plus two equals five.” But it was a close-run thing, adds Ramsay: “There were three malts, all within a few percentage points of each other. The winner wasn’t leaping out from among the others, as such.” In the company of so many high quality malts, the Blended Scotch category might be in danger of being overshadowed, but the professional judging standards are high. “We give the standard blends quite a hard time, judging them early in the competition,” says Ramsay. “It’s one of the issues we will address in our annual review meeting in December.”


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SILVER Scotch single malts Aberfeldy 12 Year Old John Dewar & Sons Ardbeg Lord of the Isles The Glenmorangie Company Auchentoshan Three Wood Morrison Bowmore Distillers Balblair Vintage 1979 Balblair Vintage 1989 Inver House Distillers Benriach 16 Year Old The Benriach Distillery Company Bowmore Darkest 15 Year Old Morrison Bowmore Distillers Bruichladdich 125th Anniversary Bruichladdich Distillery Company Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old Burn Stewart Distillers Fettercairn 1965 Highland Fettercairn 1973 Single Highland Malt Whyte & Mackay Glen Garioch 21 Year Old Morrison Bowmore Distillers Glenfarclas 25 Year Old Highland J&G Grant Glenfiddich 30 Year Old Glenfiddich Ancient Reserve 18 Year Old

Glenfiddich Caoran Reserve Glenfiddich Cask Strength 15 Year Old Glenfiddich Solera Reserve Glenfiddich Toasted Oak William Grant & Sons Glenmorangie Artisan Cask Glenmorangie Distillery Glenmorangie 10 Year Old The Glenmorangie Company Highland Park 15 Year Old Highland Park 16 Year Old Highland Park 30 Year Old The Edrington Group Laphroaig 10 Year Old Cask Strength Laphroaig Quarter Cask Beam Global Spirits & Wine Longmorn 16 Year Old Chivas Brothers Morrisons Single Speyside Malt 10 Year Old Morrisons Old Pulteney 17 Year Old Old Pulteney 21 Year Old Inver House Distillers Sainsbury’s Highland Malt Sainsbury’s

Scapa 14 Year Old Strathisla 12 Year Old Chivas Brothers Tamnavulin 35 Year Old Speyside Whyte & Mackay Tesco Highland 12 Year Old Tesco Stores The Balvenie Doublewood The Balvenie Roasted Malt 14 Year Old The Balvenie Vintage Cask 1972 William Grant & Sons The Dalmore 12 Year Old Port Finish Whyte & Mackay The Glenlivet 12 Year Old The Glenlivet 21 Year Old Archive The Glenlivet XXV Chivas Brothers The Isle of Jura Superstition Whyte & Mackay The Macallan Fine Oak 18 Year Old The Macallan Fine Oak 21 Year Old The Macallan Sherry Oak 12 Year Old The Macallan Sherry Oak 18 Year Old The Edrington Group Tomintoul 27 Year Old Speyside-Glenlivet Angus Dundee Distillers

International Spirits Challenge

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Scotch whisky

SILVER

SILVER

Scotch blends

Scotch grain

Asda Extra Special Asda Ballantine’s 21 Year Old Chivas Brothers Black Bottle 10 Year Old Burn Stewart Distillers Dewar’s Signature John Dewar & Sons Johnnie Walker Gold Label Diageo Marks & Spencer Kenmore Blended Scotch Marks & Spencer Matisse 12 Year Old Blended Scotch Matisse Spirits Morrisons The Best Single Speyside Malt 15 Year Old Morrisons

Old St Andrews Clubhouse Old St Andrews Royal Salute The Hundred Cask Selection No.3 Chivas Brothers Scottish Leader Scottish Leader 14 Year Old Scottish Leader 15 Year Old Burn Stewart Distillers Tesco Finest Reserve Blended 12 Year Old Tesco Stores The Black Grouse The Edrington Group The Royal & Ancient Fine Old Scotch Whisky Cockburn & Campbell

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Girvan 1964 Single Grain William Grant & Sons

Scotch vatted malts Glen Turner 12 Ans La Martiniquaise Johnnie Walker Green Label Diageo Matisse 12 Year Old Blended Malt Matisse Spirits Sainsbury’s Islay Malt Sainsbury’s

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Scotch whisky

BRONZE Scotch vatted malts Asda Pure Islay Malt 10 Year Old Asda Glen Turner 18 Ans La Martiniquaise Inverey 12 Year Old Marks & Spencer Islay Malt 10 Year Old Marks & Spencer Monkey Shoulder

William Grant & Sons Morrisons Pure Malt 8 Year Old Morrisons Prime Blue 17 Year Old Prime Blue 21 Year Old Morrison Bowmore Distillers The Famous Grouse Aged 18 Years

The Edrington Group The Peat Chimney The Smooth Gentleman The Spice King Wemyss Vintage Malts Whyte & Mackay Prize Blended Malt Whyte & Mackay

Glen Garioch 8 Year Old Glen Garioch 12 Year Old Morrison Bowmore Distillers Glen Moray Mountain Oak – Final Release The Glenmorangie Company Glen Scotia Single Campbeltown Malt Loch Lomond Distillers Glencadam 15 Year Old Highland Angus Dundee Distillers Glenfiddich Gran Reserva Glenfiddich Rare Collection 40 Year Old Glenfiddich Vintage Reserve 1973 William Grant & Sons Glengoyne 10 Year Old Glengoyne 12 Year Old Glengoyne 17 Year Old Glengoyne 21 Year Old Ian Macleod Distillers Glenmorangie 15 Year Old Sauternes Wood Finish Glenmorangie 18 Year Old Glenmorangie Port Wood Finish Glenmorangie Sherry Wood Finish The Glenmorangie Company Highland Park 25 Year Old The Edrington Group Jacobite 5 Year Old Malt Booker Jura 10 Year Old Jura Heavily Peated Cask Strength 1999 Whyte & Mackay Littlemilll Single Lowland Malt Loch Lomond Distillers Matisse 15 Year Old Matisse Spirits McClellands Highland McClellands Islay McClellands Lowland McClellands Speyside Morrison Bowmore Distillers Milroy’s of Soho Glenglassaugh 1976 The Jeroboams Group Morrisons Single Highland 10 Year Old

Morrisons Single Islay Malt Morrisons Sainsbury’s 15 Year Old Claret Finish Sainsbury’s 15 Year Old Cognac Finish Sainsbury’s Speyside Malt Talisker Distillers Edition Diageo The Arran 10 Year Old Malt The Arran Malt 100 Proof Isle of Arran Distillers The Balvenie Founders Reserve 10 Year Old The Balvenie New Oak The Balvenie Portwood 1993 The Balvenie Portwood Aged 21Years William Grant & Sons The Dalmore 12 Year Old Black Isle The Dalmore 12 Year Old Black Pearl Madeira Cask Finish The Dalmore 12 Year Old Highland The Dalmore 15 Year Old Highland The Dalmore 18 Year Old Highland The Dalmore 21 Year Old Highland Whyte & Mackay The Glenlivet 12 Year Old First Fill The Glenlivet 1969 Cellar Collection The Glenlivet Nadurra Cask Strength Chivas Brothers The Glenrothes 1985 Vintage The Glenrothes 1994 Vintage BB&R Spirits The Macallan Fine Oak 10 Year Old The Macallan Fine Oak 15 Year Old The Edrington Group Tomatin 12 Year Old Highland Tomatin 18 Year Old Highland Tomatin Distillery Tomintoul 10 Year Old Speyside-Glenlivet Tomintoul 16 Year Old Speyside-Glenlivet Angus Dundee Distillers Waitrose Islay Scotch Malt Waitrose

BRONZE Scotch single malts 3D3 Third Edition Norrie Campbell Tribute Bruichladdich Distillery Company Aberfeldy 21 Year Old John Dewar & Sons Aberlour 10 Year Old Aberlour 16 Year Old Aberlour A’bunadh Chivas Brothers Ancnoc 12 Year Old Ancnoc 1993 Inver House Distillers Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist Ardbeg Almost There Ardbeg Ten Year Old Ardbeg Uigeadail The Glenmorangie Company Asda Single Highland Malt Asda Single Speyside Malt 12 Year Old Asda Balblair Vintage 1997 Inver House Distillers Balvenie Single Barrel 15 Year Old William Grant & Sons Benriach 15 Year Old Dark Rum Finish Benriach 15 Year Old Madeira Finish Benriach 25 Year Old Benriach Curiositas Peated 10 Year Old The Benriach Distillery Company Blacker Still Bruichladdich Distillery Company Bowmore Surf Morrison Bowmore Distillers Bruichladdich 12 Year Old Second Edition Bruichladdich Waves Bruichladdich Distillery Company Bunnahabhain 18 Year Old Bunnahabhain 25 Year Old Deanston 30 Year Old Burn Stewart Distillers Duncan Taylor Cask Strength Glen Grant Duncan Taylor Glen Darbach 12 Year Old Marks & Spencer

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Scotch whisky

BRONZE Scotch blends Asda Blended Scotch Asda Ballantine’s 12 Year Old Special Reserve Ballantine’s Finest Chivas Brothers Black Bottle Burn Stewart Distillers Chivas Regal 18 Chivas Brothers Clan Maceregol William Grant & Sons Dewar’s 12 Year Old Special Reserve Dewar’s White Label John Dewar & Sons Grant’s Family Reserve William Grant & Sons High Commissioner Glen Catrine Bond Jacobite Booker Johnnie Walker Black/Blue/Red Label Diageo Label 5 Scotch Whisky La Martiniquaise Matisse 21 Year Old Blended Scotch Matisse Old Blended Matisse Royal Blended Matisse Spirits Milroy’s of Soho The Jeroboams Group

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Royal Salute 21 Year Old Royal Salute 38 Year Old Chivas Brothers Sainsbury’s Blended Whisky Sainsbury’s Taste The Difference 8 Year Old Sainsbury’s Scottish Leader Supreme Burn Stewart Distillers Talisman Finest JW Hardie Teacher’s Highland Cream Beam Global Spirits & Wine The Grand Bark Reserve Extra Old Symposion International The Royal & Ancient 28 Year Old Cockburn & Campbell Whyte & Mackay 19 Year Old Luxury Blended Scotch Whyte & Mackay 22 Year Old Supreme Whyte & Mackay 30 Year Old Oldest Whyte & Mackay Special Blended Scotch Whyte & Mackay The Thirteen Whyte & Mackay

Scotch grain Invergordon Invergordon 1961 Single Highland Grain Whyte & Mackay


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COMMENDED Single malts Auchentoshan 10 Year Old Auchentoshan 21 Year Old Benriach 12 Year Old Benriach 30 Year Old Bowmore 18 Year Old Morrison Bowmore Distillers Deanston 12 Year Old Burn Stewart Distillers Distillery Select Single Highland Malt Loch Lomond Distillers Fettercairn 1824 12 Year Old Highland Whyte & Mackay Glen Moray 12 Year Old Glen Moray 16 Year Old Chivas Brothers Glendronach 12 Year Old The Glenmorangie Company Isle Of Jura 18 Year Old Highland Jura 21 Year Old Jura Sherry Finish Cask Strength Jura Single Highland Malt 16 Year Old Whyte & Mackay Ledaig 10 Year Old Burn Stewart Distillers Loch Lomond Single Highland Malt Loch Lomond Distillers Milroy’s of Soho Auchentoshan 1990 Milroy’s of Soho Glen Grant 1995 The Jeroboams Group Old Ballantruan Speyside-Glenlivet Angus Dundee Distillers Tamnavulin 12 Year Old Speyside Whyte & Mackay The Balvenie Thirty William Grant & Sons The Dalmore 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon Finish The Dalmore Clear Malt Highland Whyte & Mackay The Glenrothes 1991 Vintage BB&R Spirits

The Macallan 10 Year Old Sherry Oak The Edrington Group Tobermory 10 Year Old Burn Stewart Distillers Tomatin 25 Year Old Highland Tomatin Distillery

Scotch vatted malts The Peat Monster Compass Box

Scotch blends Antiquary 12 Year Old Superior Deluxe Antiquary 21 Year Old Superior Deluxe JW Hardie Ballantine’s 17 Year Old Chivas Brothers Barrogill Inver House Distillers Dewar’s 18 Year Old Founders Reserve John Dewar & Sons Grant’s Ale Cask Reserve Grant’s Sherry Cask Reserve William Grant & Sons James Martin’s 20 Year Old The Glenmorangie Company Loch Lomond Single Highland Blended Scotch Loch Lomond Distillers Sainsbury’s So Organic Whisky Sainsbury’s Scottish Leader Burn Stewart Distillers The Bailie Nicol Jarvie The Glenmorangie Company The Famous Grouse The Edrington Group Whyte & Mackay 40 Year Old Original Whyte & Mackay

International Spirits Challenge

| October 2007 | 21


Whiskies of the world

Champion potential While Ireland is the proud owner of the world’s oldest licence to distill – dating back to 1608 – Japan has become a force to be reckoned with in its own right While Scotch whisky’s domination of the ISC and other competitions shows no sign of diminishing, lessons are being learned and transported back to other whisky-producing nations. “The Japanese and Irish have both improved massively over the past decade and are now providing a real threat to Scotch,” says Whisky category chairman John Ramsay. In terms of taste, he says, the Japanese whiskies are becoming “closer and closer” to Scotch, especially among the blends – as illustrated by Suntory’s Category Champion, Hibiki 30 Year Old. The Irish put in a strong performance, with three big players – Diageo, Irish Distillers and C&C International – all picking up Gold medals. Japan, meanwhile, showed great consistency in securing a hatful of Silvers. Indian whisky still struggles in competition because of judges’ attitudes to production methods involving the use of “additives”. But Scandinavia is proving an area of potential. “There were a few more Swedish entries this year,” says Ramsay. “It’s early days yet, but their whiskies are not to be scoffed at – it’s definitely an up-and-coming area.”

GOLD Whiskies of the world Irish Bushmills Malt 21 Year Old Diageo Midleton Very Rare Irish Distillers Tullamore Dew 12 Year Old C&C International Tullamore Dew Irish whiskey C&C International Japanese malt The Yamazaki Single Malt 18 Year Old Suntory Japanese blended Suntory Whisky Hibiki 30 Year Old Suntory Bourbon/Tennessee Four Roses Single Barrel Bourbon Four Roses Distillery Van Winkle Special Reserve 12 Year Old Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery

SILVER Whiskies of the world Irish Jameson Jameson 18 Year Old Irish Distillers The Irishman Superior Irish Whiskey Hot Irishman Bushmills Malt 10 Year Old Bushmills Malt 16 Year Old Bushmills Original Diageo Redbreast 12 Year Old Irish Distillers Sainsbury’s Single Malt Irish Cooley Distillery Japanese malt Nikka Single Malt Miyagikyo 12 Year Old

Nikka Single Malt Miyagikyo 15 Year Old Nikka Single Malt Yoichi 10 Year Old Nikka Single Malt Yoichi 12 Year Old Nikka Single Malt Yoichi 15 Year Old Nikka Taketsuru 17 Year Old Nikka Taketsuru 21 Year Old Nikka Single Malt Yoichi The Nikka Whisky Distilling Company The Hakushu Single Malt 18 Year Old The Yamazaki Single Malt 10 Year Old The Yamazaki Single Malt 12 Year Old Suntory Japanese blended Nikka From the Barrel The Nikka Whisky Distilling Company Suntory Whisky Hibiki 21 Year Old

Suntory Whisky Hibiki 50.5 The Nikka Whisky Distilling Company Nikka Tsuru 17 Year Old The Nikka Whisky Distilling Company Bourbon/Tennessee Four Roses Small Batch Bourbon Four Roses Yellow Label Bourbon Four Roses Distillery Old Virginia 8 Ans La Martiniquaise Canadian/American blends Gibson’s Bourbon Cask 12 Year Old Gibson’s Rare 18 Year Old Gibson’s The Finest William Grant & Sons

International Spirits Challenge | October 2007 | 23


Whiskies of the world

BRONZE

COMMENDED

Whiskies of the world

Whiskies of the world

Irish Asda Irish Whiskey Asda Bushmills Black Bush Diageo Brogans Legacy PG Brogan & Co Cassidy’s Irish Whiskey Marks & Spencer Connemara Peated Malt Whisky Cooley Distillery Jameson 12 Year Old Irish Distillers

Super Nikka The Nikka Whisky Distilling Company

Japanese malt Nikka Taketsuru 12 Year Old The Nikka Whisky Distilling Company The Hakushu Single Malt 10 Year Old The Hakushu Single Malt 12 Year Old Suntory

Indian Amrut Amrut Distilleries

Japanese blended Suntory Whisky Hibiki 17 Year Old Suntory

24 | October 2007 |

Bourbon/Tennessee Marks & Spencer Kentucky Bourbon 9 Year Old Marks & Spencer Canadian/American blends Gibson’s Sterling William Grant & Sons Old Virginia 12 Ans La Martiniquaise

Whiskies from other countries Mackmyra Reserve Small & Single Cask New Swedish Oak Mackmyra Svensk Whisky Three Ships 5 Year Old Distell

International Spirits Challenge

Irish The Irishman Single Malt Irish Whiskey Hot Irishman Japanese malt The Yamazaki Single Malt 25 Year Old Suntory Canadian/American blends Gibson’s New Oak 12 Year Old William Grant & Sons Whiskies from other countries Mackmyra Preludium: 04 Mackmyra Svensk Whisky Mackmyra Reserve Small & Single Cask Ex-Sherry Mackmyra Svensk Whisky Three Ships Bourbon Cask Finish Three Ships Whisky Distell


Cognac, Armagnac & brandy

A quality act all round It’s a record year among the grape-based eaux-de-vie for both the number of entries and the medals awarded

GOLD Cognac, Armagnac, brandy Cognac Camus VS Elegance Cognac Camus Cognac Francois Voyer XO LGT Delamain Vintage 1972 Société Jacques Bollinger

With brandy undergoing a revival in certain market sectors, it was no surprise this year, according to chairman of judges Neil Mathieson, that the entry was up some 20 per cent and that the standard across all categories was higher than had previously been seen. A total of 15 Gold medals were awarded. “The Cognac category led the way,” says Mathieson, “and the most rewarding judging here came in the VS and VSOP classes where the judges felt the products were showing more depth and finesse than in previous years. The highest marks were awarded in the XO and Extra categories where several single-vintage and singledistillery products showed how a touch of individuality can on occasion outshine even the finest blends.” The next strongest category, says Mathieson, was Pot-Distilled Brandies. “The South Africans continue to show the rest of the world a clean pair of heels and now produce brandies of great finesse and clarity of flavour. Distell took home more medals than any other brandy or Cognac company, although the greater catch went to KWV, which landed the Brandy category Trophy.”

Distillerie les Magnolias Grande Champagne Louis Royer Domaine Château de Fontpinot 1986 20 Year Old P Frapin & Cie H By Hine CL World Brands Maxime Trijol Grande Champagne Reserve Cognac Maxime Trijol Armagnac Janneau Très Vieille Reserve Giovinetti Partners Calvados Calvados Boulard Hors d’Age SACB Brandy – South Africa KWV 10 Year Old KWV South Africa Mellow-Wood 5 Oude Meester Reserve Van Ryn’s 10 Year Old Vintage Brandy; Viceroy Distell Brandy – Spain Torres 20 Miguel Torres

26 | October 2007 |

International Spirits Challenge

Armagnac and Calvados also produced more winners than before, but there was disappointment in the quality and number of entries in the Grappa, Fruit Brandy and Spanish Brandy categories. “The judges found it difficult to reconcile the quality of products from previous years,” says Mathieson, “although it must be said that Pilzer, of Trentino in Italy, provided one or two highlights with its very fine grappas.” In the judges’ minds this year’s tasting was possibly the best yet. “More entries of a higher quality; many more medal winners from a wider number of producers; and well-organised flights that meant each entry could be considered fairly within its own peer group under circumstances which allowed for the products to be shown at their best.” Looking to the future, Mathieson would like to see an increase in entries from eastern Europe and South America and also more from Italy and Spain which, says Mathieson, “traditionally produce very diverse styles which will surely find a place in the developing international marketplace”.

SILVER Cognac, Armagnac, brandy Cognac Bache-Gabrielsen XO Bache-Gabrielsen Camus VSOP Elegance Cognac Camus Cognac Frapin VSOP Grande Champagne P Frapin & Cie Cognac Gautier XO Cognac Gautier Delamain Extra Société Jacques Bollinger Distillerie Chantal Bons Bois Louis Royer Hine VSOP Hine XO CL World Brands Le Reviseur Napoleon Cognac ABK6 Louis Royer Cognac VSOP Louis Royer XO Louis Royer Cognac VS Louis Royer Maxime Trijol Vintage 1970 Millésime Borderies Cognac Maxime Trijol Preference VSOP Cognac Louis Royer Tesco VS Cognac Tesco VSOP Cognac Tesco Stores

Armagnac Baron de Sigognac Vieille Reserve Familiale Adex-Maison de l’Armagnac Janneau VSOP Janneau XO Giovinetti Partners Calvados Calvados Boulard Grand Solage SACB Tesco Calvados VSOP Tesco Stores Brandy – South Africa Klipdrift Premium Distell KWV 15 Year Old KWV Imoya VSOP KWV South Africa Nederburg Potstill Solera Van Ryn’s 15 Year Old Fine Cask Reserve Distell Fruit brandy Prenzel Raspberry Prenzel Distilling Company Grappa Grappa di Pinot Nero Distilleria Pilzer


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BRONZE Cognac, Armagnac, brandy Cognac Bache-Gabrielsen 3 Kors Bache-Gabrielsen Cognac Gautier VS Cognac Gautier Cognac Otard VS Cognac Otard VSOP Fine Champagne Château de Cognac Delamain Pale & Dry XO Delamain Single Vineyard Gensac la Pallue Société Jacques Bollinger Distillerie d’Aumagne Fins Bois Distillerie de l’Ecole Petite Champagne Louis Royer Marks & Spencer Monnet Cognac Marks & Spencer Maxime Trijol XO Cognac Maxime Trijol Tesco Finest XO Cognac Tesco Stores Armagnac Janneau 5 Year Old Giovinetti Partners Sainsbury’s Taste The Difference Armagnac Sainsbury’s Tesco VSOP Armagnac Tesco Stores Calvados Calvados Berneroy VSOP Cognac Camus Calvados Berneroy XO Cognac Camus

Brandy – France Marks & Spencer Napoleon Brandy Marks & Spencer Raynal VSOP William Grant & Sons Brandy – India 8 PM Excellency Brandy Radico Khaitan Brandy – South Africa Flight Of The Fish Eagle Distell Joseph Barry 5 Year Old Potstill Brandy Southern Cape Vineyards Barrydale Klipdrift Export Klipdrift Gold Distell KWV 5 Year Old KWV South Africa Oude Meester VSOB Van Ryn’s 12 Year Old Distillers Reserve Distell Brandy – Spain Jaime I Miguel Torres Veterano Bodegas Osborne Grappa Grappa di Traminer Distilleria Pilzer Nardini Grappa Ditta Bortolo Nardini

COMMENDED Cognac, Armagnac, brandy Cognac Camus Extra Cognac Camus Cognac Otard XO Gold Château de Cognac Distillerie des Saules Borderies Force 53 VSOP Fine Champagne Louis Royer Martell VSOP Pernod Ricard Maxime Trijol Elégance Grande Champagne Cognac Maxime Trijol Sainsbury’s Taste The Difference XO Cognac Sainsbury’s

Gascon Kiss Fivigers

Armagnac Comte de Lauvia 8 Year Old Spirits Partners

Brandy – France Three Barrels Reserve William Grant & Sons

Calvados Calvados Berneroy Fine Cognac Camus Calvados Christian Drouin 1966 Christian Drouin Calvados Comte Louis de Lauriston 1980 Les Chais du Verger Normand Calvados Obertin Distillerie Busnel

Brandy – South Africa Barry & Nephews 3 Year Potstill Brandy Southern Cape Vineyards Barrydale KWV 20 Year Old KWV South Africa Van Ryn’s 20 Year Old Collectors Reserve Distell Brandy – Spain Hidalgo 200 Gran Reserva Bodegas Hidalgo Torres 10 Miguel Torres Fruit brandy Aquavite di Albicocca Distilleria Pilzer Joseph Cartron Mirabelle Joseph Cartron

International Spirits Challenge

| October 2007 | 27


White spirits

Top of the shots The white spirits always provide a varied and fascinating palette of base ingredients, flavourings and ageing

Vodka

showing just how competitive each sector has become. “Premium vodkas gained the largest number of awards, with Gold medals also awarded to flavoured vodkas,” says Wisniewski. Vodka’s rise to eminence in the 90s contrasted with gin’s gradual decline, though the past few years have seen sustained progress for gin, with numerous new brands extending the range of flavour profiles. Premium gins comprised the largest tasting flight – and received the largest number of awards – while super-premiums also received a range of medals. With more tequila brands becoming more readily available, the category has seen a significant growth of interest. Separate flights saw reposado tequila (barrel matured for between two and 12 months) having the highest number of entries, followed by equal numbers of blanco and añejo styles. “Judging focused on how the blue agave character showed in blanco tequila, and among aged brands how the original blue agave

Every competition, enthuses White Spirits category chairman Ian Wisniewski, depends on the brands which enter and the qualifications of the judges assessing them. “With an increased number of entries, a range of awards was given by experienced judges from Russia, Norway and the UK,” he says. Each tasting session was followed by detailed discussions, beginning with judges’ expectations of each category. “As the spirits industry is continually specialising and innovating,” says Wisniewski, “various categories include ‘traditional’ as well as more ‘progressive’ brands, and the latest stage in each category’s evolution was eagerly discussed. “Vodka continues to thrive as the most fashionable spirit, reflecting amazing mixability. Cocktails are back in fashion, and it’s cocktail consumption that drives the category in various markets.” The number of standard, premium and superpremium vodkas entering ISC 2007 was fairly even,

GOLD

International Spirits Challenge

Super-premium Golden Moscow 24 Carat Liviz Premium Diplomat Classic Liviz Flagship Russian Wine & Spirits Company Wyborowa Vodka Pernod Ricard Flavoured Parliament Pepper Parliament World Group Zubrowka Bison Grass Vodka CEDC

| October 2007 | 29


White spirits character was balanced and complemented by the additional influence of oak ageing,” says Wisniewski. A favourite in Denmark, Sweden and Norway, this year’s entries of aquavit (also spelt “akvavit”) showed the variety the category can offer. How different flavour profiles performed was the basis of a lively discussion. “Ideally, every category would be judged separately,” says Wisniewski, “avoiding any need for an ‘other white spirits’ section. However, this does serve a practical role, as categories with only one, or a small number of entries can be judged in separate flights.” The largest flight was shochu from Japan, gaining four awards, with this category having undergone a considerable revival. DI

SILVER Vodka Premium Diplomat One Liviz Standard Khortytsa Platinum Image Holding

BRONZE

COMMENDED

Vodka

Vodka

Super-premium Golden Moscow Liviz Oval 42 Oval Getrankenproduktions

Super-premium Wodka Gorbatschow Platinum 44 Henkell & Söhnlein

Premium Chekov 45% Booker Hlibnij Dar Classichna Nechytailo-Ridzhok Nemiroff Original Nemiroff Ukrainian Vodka Company Premium Gera Alita Standard Khortytsa Classic Image Holding Khortytsa Wheat Vodka Image Holding Parliament Parliament World Group

Standard Chekov Booker Magic Moments Radico Khaitan

Flavoured Finlandia Grapefruit Fusion Finlandia Vodka Worldwide Khortytsa Silver Cool Mint Vodka Image Holding

30 | October 2007 |

Premium Back In USSR Enteh Hlibnij Dar Ozyma Nechytailo-Ridzhok Ledo Anyksciu Vynas Luksusowa Luxury Potato Vodka V&S Luksusowa Reyka Vodka William Grant & Sons

International Spirits Challenge

Flavoured Cariel Vanilla Vodka Cariel Spirits Marks & Spencer Blueberry Vodka Marks & Spencer


White spirits

Botanicals hit the right note The gin category has seen a surge of new interest, and entries proved especially strong among the premiums

GOLD Gin Super-premium Crown Jewel Chivas Bros Martin Miller’s Westbourne Strength Reformed Spirits Premium Sainsbury’s Taste The Difference Blackfriars Gin Sainsbury’s

SILVER Gin Super-premium Whitley Neill London Dry Gin Whitley Neill Limited Premium Beefeater 47 Chivas Bros Pink 47 Old St Andrews

BRONZE Gin Premium Beefeater 40 Chivas Bros Plymouth Gin V&S Absolut Spirits Tesco Finest No.1 Classic Gin Tesco

COMMENDED Gin Premium Martin Miller’s Gin Reformed Spirits Prenzel Gin Prenzel Distilling Company Standard Rogue Spruce Gin Rogue Spirits Sainsbury’s 40% Original Gin Sainsbury’s Tesco 40% Gin Tesco Stores

32 | October 2007 |

International Spirits Challenge


White spirits

The best of the rest As the bartender’s quest for ever more off-beat and niche cocktail ingredients continues, there’s plenty of scope for expansion in the competition’s most varied category GOLD Tequila añejo Cazadores Añejo Bacardi Aquavit Aalborg Taffel Akvavit V&S Distillers

SILVER Tequila añejo Milagro Tequila Añejo Milagro Tequila SB Añejo Select Barrel William Grant & Sons Tequila blanco Milagro Tequila Silver William Grant & Sons Aquavit Malteserkreuz Aquavit V&S Distillers

BRONZE Tequila reposado Milagro Tequila Reposado Select Barrel Milagro Tequila SB Reposada Select Barrel William Grant & Sons

COMMENDED

Aquavit Aalborg Nordguld Aquavit OP Anderson Aquavit V&S Distillers

Other white spirits, schnapps etc Hakutake Shiro Takahashi Shuzoh Sorekara Barley Shochu Suntory The Genuine Barley Shochu Hakata No Hana 3 Years Fukutokucho Shurui

Other white spirits, schnapps etc Sorekara Sweet Potato Shochu Bacardi Suntory

Aquavit Aalborg Jubileaum Akvavit V&S Distillers

International Spirits Challenge

| October 2007 | 33


Liqueurs & specialities

Growing category is the most demanding No Gold medals awarded as the judges get tougher on quality in this rapidly growing sector

SILVER

Of all the categories in the ISC, it’s the Liqueurs & Specialities that has grown the most, rising from 27 awards in 2006 to 83 this year. It’s a particularly demanding category for the judges to taste through, covering as it does many different styles – cream, fruit and herbal liqueurs, as well as varying textures and levels of alcohol and sweetness. “My impression of the competition was that it was very professional and organised,” says De Kuyper’s Matthijs Jansen. “And, despite the huge number of liqueurs and specialities, the presentation of the

samples passed off quickly and perfectly.” But Jansen admitted there was a disappointing lack of Gold medals in the final analysis: “The quality of the liqueurs in particular was not overwhelming – only a few Silver medals and no Gold medal at all. “It is indeed disappointing and it can mean two things. Either the judges were tougher this time than previous years or, more likely, the contributors [producers] are less critical of themselves and thinking ‘nothing ventured, nothing gained’. Let’s hope it will be better in 2008.”

Liqueurs & Specialities , Liqueurs – cassis Gabriel Boudier Crème de Cassis Gabriel Boudier Liqueurs – contemporary De Kuyper Sour Rhubarb Koninklijke de Kuyper Liqueurs – cream/dairy Dooley’s Original Toffee & Vodka Waldemar Behn Liqueurs – fruit other De Kuyper Cherry Brandy Koninklijke de Kuyper Liqueurs – herbal Mentzendorff Kummel Mentzendorff Scharlachberg Kräuterlikör Henkell & Söhnlein Vieille Cure MAB Pages Védrenne Other liqueurs & specialities Frangelico C&C International Whisky-based liqueurs Glayva Whyte & Mackay

Liqueurs & Specialities Absinthe Absinthe Apsinthion Toorank Liqueurs – cassis Briottet Crème de Cassis de Dijon Briottet Crème de Cassis de La Saintonge Boisée Merlet & Fils De Kuyper Noir de Bourgogne Koninklijke de Kuyper L’Heritier-Guyot Crème de Cassis de Dijon Boisset Supercassis Védrenne Pages Védrenne Liqueurs – contemporary De Kuyper Butterscotch De Kuyper Sour Apple Koninklijke de Kuyper Liqueurs – cream/dairy O’Donnells Caramel Cream R A Merry & Co Warninks Advocaat Warninks Liqueurs – crème/fruit Merlet Crème de Framboise Merlet Crème de Pêche de Vigne Merlet Crème de Poire William Merlet & Fils

Whisky-based liqueurs Irish Mist C&C International

34 | October 2007 |

BRONZE

International Spirits Challenge

Liqueurs – fruit other Limoncello Liqueur Binyamina Winery De Kuyper Apricot Brandy De Kuyper Peachtree Koninklijke de Kuyper Liqueurs – herbal Australian Herbal Liqueur The Australian Vodka Company Benedictine Dom Distillerie Benedictine Malteser Bitter V&S Distillers Oude Meester Peppermint Liqueur Distell Other liqueurs & specialities Florenza Hazelnut Liqueur Beveland Zen Green Tea Liqueur Suntory Specialities – anis-based Casanis Boisset Brandy-based liqueurs Marks & Spencer Orange & Brandy Liqueur Marks & Spencer Kenmore Whisky Liqueur Marks & Spencer


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COMMENDED Liqueurs & Specialities Absinthe La Fée Bohemian La Fée Parisienne La Fée X.S Suisse Green Utopia Liqueurs – cassis Double Crème de Cassis de Bourgogne 19% Joseph Cartron Liqueurs – cream/dairy Asda Extra Special Asda Ballycastle Chocolate & Vanilla Cream Ballycastle Winter Spice Cream Liqueur Aldi UK Bloom Mountain Organic Irish Cream Liqueur First Ireland Spirits Brogans Original Irish Cream Liqueur Brogans With A Hint Of Crème Caramel PG Brogan & Co Carolans C&C International De Kuyper Butterscotch Cream Koninklijke de Kuyper Declans Irish Country Cream Booker Drumgray Burn Stewart Distillers Feeney’s Irish Cream First Ireland Spirits Merrys Cappuccino Cream Merrys Caramel Cream Merrys Irish Cream Merrys Strawberry Cream R A Merry & Co O’Casey’s Irish Cream First Ireland Spirits

O’Donnells Irish Cream R A Merry & Co O’Hagan’s Irish Cream Liqueur First Ireland Spirits O’Reillys Irish Cream Prestige Wine Group Liqueurs – crème/fruit Crème de Mûre Sathenay Pages Védrenne Merlet Crème de Fraise Merlet Crème de Mûre Sauvage Merlet & Fils Liqueurs – fruit berry Marks & Spencer Sloe Gin Marks & Spencer Liqueurs – fruit citrus De Kuyper Triple Sec Koninklijke de Kuyper Gabriel Boudier Triple Sec Gabriel Boudier Orange Duck Triple Sec Beveland

Gabriel Boudier Gentiane de Salers Pages Védrenne Oude Meester Ginger Liqueur Distell Other liqueurs & specialities Binyamina Winery Chocolate Liqueur Binyamina Winery Dark Oscars Coffee Liqueur Aldi UK Liqueur de Chataigne Védrenne Marcassin de Bourgogne Pages Védrenne Ohshukubai Rum-Base Plum Liqueur Godo Shusei Royal Conti Amaretto Beveland Specialities – anis-based Ricard Pernod Ricard

Liqueurs – fruit other De Kuyper Melon Koninklijke de Kuyper Gabriel Boudier Cherry Brandy Gabriel Boudier Mangoyan Mango Liqueur Suntory Ohshukubai Special Godo Shusei Liqueurs – herbal Gabriel Boudier Crème de Menthe

Brandy-based liqueurs Grand Sabra Carmel The Iron Duke’s Number One London Brandy Liqueur High Street Trading Company Xanté The Xanté Company Whisky-based liqueurs Strawberry Kiss Leith Liqueur Company

International Spirits Challenge

| October 2007 | 35


Rum

French islands join the fray With entry numbers and medals on the up, things are moving in the right direction for the category that’s often been seen as the perennial bridesmaid to vodka’s bride A category that has traditionally underperformed in the ISC, Rum saw a healthy increase in the number of medals awarded in 2007, including six Agricole contenders from the French Caribbean. “The standard of entries was higher than last year and this is evident by the number of awards presented,” says category chairman of judges, Steve Hoyles. Rum is a broad category in terms of geographical origins and flavour profiles, so how are they all judged fairly against each other? “We try to subdivide the category,” says Hoyles. “Flavoured rums such as Morgan’s Spiced are not, technically speaking, classified as rums, but we understand that and treat them separately. The French-style rums (rhum agricole) are made in a slightly different manner again, using cane juice compared with other rums which generally use distilled molasses.” While technical definitions of what constitutes “rum” are hard to pin down, Hoyles is clear about what is permissible. “The EU regulations 1576/89

covering all spirits drinks categories, essentially for the whole of Europe and the US, state that all rum must be distilled below 95.8 per cent alcohol,” he says. “Above that it’s technically neutral alcohol. Minimum alcohol is 37.5 per cent abv and it must be distilled from sugar cane products.” So what makes for a Gold medal-winning rum? “Those products which have got some complexity,” says Hoyles. “It’s the rums made in pot stills which gain a greater breadth of flavours and, as with Scotch whisky, you’re not just relying on cask ageing to give complexity. We’re looking for rums with craftsmanship, length of delivery and something unique about them. A Gold winner will be one that could be drunk on its own.” And the entries in the over 7 years old subcategory were particularly notable, according to Hoyles: “Ageing rum is a kind of back-door premiumisation. It tells the world rums can deliver alongside whiskies and brandies.”

International Spirits Challenge

GOLD Rum Rum, over 7 years old (brown, golden & dark), stated age Appleton Estate Extra 12 Year Old J Wray & Nephew Rum, under 7 years old (brown, golden & dark) Cap Savanna 7 Ans Distillerie de Savanna

SILVER Rum Rum, unaged (brown, golden & dark) Marks & Spencer Dark Rum Marks & Spencer Rum agricole or cane spirit La Mauny Rhum VSOP Bourdillon Bellonnie & Successeurs Savanna Agricole Vieux Single Cask Distillerie de Savanna White rum Rubi Rey Bacardi Wray & Nephew White Overproof Rum J Wray & Nephew

| October 2007 | 37


Rum

COMMENDED Rum Rum, over 7 years old (brown, golden & dark), stated age Angostura 1824 Angostura Flor de Caña Centenario 12 Year Old CLNSA Rum, under 7 years old (brown, golden & dark) Havana Club Añejo Especial Havana Club International Rum, other premiums (brown, golden & dark) Appleton Estate Reserve J Wray & Nephew Doorly’s XO RL Seale

BRONZE Rum Rum, over 7 years old (brown, golden & dark), stated age Flor de Caña Centenario Oro 18 Year Old CLNSA Rum, under 7 years old (brown, golden & dark) Appleton Estate V/X J Wray & Nephew Doorly’s 5 Year Old RL Seale Rum, other premiums (brown, golden & dark) Appleton Estate Master Blender Legacy

38 | October 2007 |

J Wray & Nephew Rum, unaged (brown, golden & dark) Sainsbury’s Superior Dark Rum Sainsbury’s Savanna Grand Arôme Vieux Single Cask Distillerie de Savanna Woods 100 Old Navy Rum William Grant & Sons Rum agricole or cane spirit English Harbour Rum 5 Year Old Antigua Distillery La Mauny Rhum Blanc Bourdillon Bellonnie & Successeurs

International Spirits Challenge

Rum agricole or cane spirit 10 Cane Moët Hennessy La Mauny Rhum Elevé Sous Bois Bourdillon Bellonnie & Successeurs White rum Asda White Rum Asda Blue Bay B United Spirits Producers Fighting Spirit Rhum Blanc Château de la Tuilerie Marks & Spencer White Rum Marks & Spencer


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