{ 6962M }
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Aconcagua at 6962m (22,830ft) is the highest mountain outside central Asia and is one of the ‘7 summits’. Set in the heart of the Andes on the Chile/ Argentina border, the views can only be described as spectacular. Of the Seven Summits, Aconcagua is the second highest and one of the most technically straightforward to climb. It is regarded as the highest trekking peak in the world and can be climbed by those without roped climbing experience. However, due to the scale of the mountain, its considerable altitude, and the geographic and unpredictable weather conditions it is no easy challenge, and can be used as preparation for the more exciting challenges posed by the eight-thousand meter and other peaks in the Himalayas. There are 3 route options when climbing Aconcagua: the normal via the Horcones Glacier Superior and north ridge, the West Buttress route, and the SouthWest route. During our expedition we will be climbing via the normal route where we have expert support. This expedition is a great chance to see Argentina and climb the highest trekking peak in the world!
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Aconcagua is a non-technical but very high mountain. You do not need any technical mountaineering experience for this trip, as all necessary skills can be taught here. However, you must be very fit, resilient and have previous experience in trekking to altitudes of around 5500m. You should be prepared to trek, camp and live the expedition life at altitude for up to 3 weeks. Please read below to see the ability and fitness level required for this expedition: ABILITY LEVEL: 1 - No alpine experience is required but previous hill walking, trekking, or easy mountaineering is a bonus. You will be using crampons and be roped up on glaciers. FITNESS LEVEL: C – Higher altitude (6000m+) or harsh conditions and the long trip duration require excellent cardiovascular and endurance fitness. You must be able to live for days/weeks on end in expedition conditions.
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can be spent sightseeing and overcoming jet lag at the local cafes.
Meet: We meet in Mendoza, a 2.5 hour flight from Buenos Aires. DATES: December to February
DAY 3: Drive to Penitentes. (2580 m / 8,465 ft.) Today we transfer by private vehicle from the city towards the national park. Our hotel is in the village of Penitentes, a ski resort in winter months, just below Inca. In February the temperatures are typically warm and dry.
ACONCAGUA – SAMPLE ITINERARY During this expedition we will be climbing Aconcagua by the normal route which is a regular favourite. The entirety of the route is a mountain trek rather than a technical climb, with some challenging scree and scrambling. But while the route is technically straightforward, the altitude and possibility of sudden changes of weather still make this a challenging expedition. This is a 20 day expedition where we follow a slow acclimatisation program, as this is key to success on this high altitude climb. We include 2-3 potential summit days in case of bad weather. Our itinerary is tried and tested and offers an excellent chance of success. DAY 1: Arrive at Mendoza (2,428 ft.). Arriving in Mendoza you will be met at the airport, and escorted to our hotel where we meet our guide Matoco Erroz for our evening meeting. Mendoza is an attractive and prosperous town adorned with European style architecture, lush parks, and street side cafes and bars. DAY 2: Expedition preparation in Mendoza. Today is spent organizing our gear and logistics in Mendoza. This allows us the time to purchase any last-minute gear and equipment, while the remainder of the day
DAY 4: Trek to Confluencia (3390 m / 11,300 ft.) After loading equipment onto mules, we travel via truck along route 7 and arrive at the Horcones Valley (2950 m / 9,678 ft), where the trek begins. A short first day of 4 hours hiking leads us to our camp at Confluencia. DAY 5: Acclimatisation at Confluencia. These are critical acclimatisation days. From Confluencia we will enjoy acclimatisation hikes including a trek toward the impressive South Face of Aconcagua at 4,000 meters. DAY 6: Base Camp at Plaza de Mulas. (4350 m / 14,500 ft.) Today we trek in to Base Camp, Plaza de Mulas. From Confluencia we hike the 7 hours from a broad stone valley up a steep trail to the terminal moraine. Our base camp at Plaza de Mulas sits above a lateral moraine just beside the Horcones glacier and beneath the west face of Aconcagua. Base camp is a comfortable spot with mess tent, a full staff of cooks and porters. It also includes a small internet cafĂŠ, a shower, and a chance to buy cold drinks in celebration of our arrival. DAY 7: Acclimatisation at Base Camp. Most people feel the altitude here so we spend the next two days resting and acclimatising before our push onto the mountain.
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DAY 8: Acclimatisation Climb. Today we set out from Plaza de Mulas to climb Cerro Bonete (5004 m / 16,417 ft) our first chance at ascending beyond 5000m. DAY 9: Carry to Camp 1. Today we make our first equipment carry to Plaza Canadá, our Camp 1 (5050 m / 16,568 ft) and we return to Plaza de Mulas for the night. From base camp at Plaza de Mulas we follow the trail as it steepens up the slopes to the rock spires. We cache food and gear here and then return to base camp. This usually takes 4 to 6 hours round trip. DAY 10: Rest and acclimatise at base camp. Before returning to Plaza Canadá, we will take another rest day at base camp. This dramatically improves acclimatisation and chances for a successful summit. DAY 11: (Camp 1) Plaza Canadá (5050 m / 16,568 ft.) Today we move from Mulas to Plaza Canadá, where we will set up our first camp on the mountain. It’s a three hour day of climbing but our first night’s sleep above 5000m. This time we must carry all our personal equipment to the camp and will not return to Base Camp unless forced to by bad weather. DAY 12: (Camp 2) Nido de Condores (5560 m / 18,241 ft.) Today we transport supplies and move up again to Nido de Condores, our porters will carry the tents and all the rest of the common gear while we move our personal supplies up to elevation of 5560m. We are now above the elevation of Mt Everest base camp! We will make our camp and look forward to the rest day ahead. DAY 13: (Camp 2) Rest day. DAY 14: (Camp 3) Cholera (5930 m / 19,455 ft.) Today we climb from Nido de Cóndores to Cholera, just below 6000 m. This will be the team’s last high altitude camp before attempting the summit
(6028 m / 19,776 ft.) At this point we will focus on sleeping, hydration, and eating well. On a clear day, the views from Camp Cholera are stunning. Weather permitting we will enjoy pleasant camp visits, however, winds and cold weather may confine us to our tents for most of the day. It is useful to carry a book, cards, or your iPod. DAY 15: Summit day! (6962 m / 22,841 ft) The summit climb is a long yet satisfying day. A typical push begins with a wake up at first light and then, depending on winds, a start for the summit between 6 to 8 am. The climb typically lasts through to late afternoon. Near the summit, a little scrambling is required to the final summit ridge. From here we’ll enjoy fierce views of the South Face up the metal cross marking our summit. DAY 16: Extra weather day. Additional summit days are included to accommodate itinerary and weather changes. We will carry 2 spare days of food and fuel for back up. DAY 17: Extra weather day. DAY 18: Descend back to Plaza de Mulas Unpack and celebrate our success back at base camp once more. DAY 19: Descend to Penitentes, drive to Mendoza. Today we descend Plaza de Mulas to Penitentes. This walk takes approximately 7 hours to the park entrance at Horcones Valley, from where we will be driven to Mendoza by vehicle, after picking up our gear in Penitentes. We arrive back to Mendoza for a last night of festivities, hot showers, and a delicious meal at our hotel. XFLY HOME! Note: This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only, weather days and rest days are always a possibility while on a climbing expedition.
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To maximise your chance of summiting Aconcagua and enjoying it in the process, it is important to get as fit as you possibly can. You must train at carrying a pack at a weight of 15-20kg which you will have on carry days on the mountain. If you have already been to altitude (4000m+), you will have some idea of the endurance required to get there. To summit a 6000m peak, you are upping the endurance test even further, so prior preparation is essential. The process of training for your goal will help you focus on your goal, and having a goal will help you focus on your training. So all in all, training is good!
advise you on a plan and schedule to help you achieve your goals. Training does not work overnight! The fittest athletes train as part of their lifestyles and have been doing it for years, so you should start your training at least 3 months before the expedition. It is important to arrive in Argentina fit and healthy, so look after yourself before your expedition, don’t overdo the training, and don’t start a diet before you get here, you will lose weight at altitude and will need all your strength on the mountain, so give yourself a head start and arrive in Nepal feeling strong!
Mountaineering is all about being able to exercise at a moderate intensity for many hours (typically 5-12 hours) and your training should reflect this. Although all but our summit day will be less than 6 hours, the high altitude really takes its toll. Probably the best training is going on long days hill walking as this simulates the real thing as closely as possible and prepares the mind. However not everyone has the opportunity to do this and so alternatives such as running, cycling and gym workouts are good. The focus should be on training Cardiovascular Endurance and so if in the gym, cycling, running, rowing machines are much better than weight training. Try and exercise for up to a couple of hours at a time, 4 times a week. Remember to build up your workouts over time, if you are not used to exercising much, your muscles and joints need time to build up to avoid injury. Try and choose an activity that you enjoy and keep a note of what you do and your times, this really helps with keeping the motivation up. If you are not used to training then your local gym will be able to
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Aconcagua peak is at nearly 7000m (6962m), which is roughly the maximum altitude to which humans can expect to fully acclimatise. At this altitude most people will experience some physical side effects. We are confident that our itinerary follows an excellent acclimatisation programme which is designed to minimise the effects of altitude and maximise summit success! As one climbs higher the air gets thinner and so there is less oxygen in each breath we take. The higher we go the less oxygen there is. This makes exercising much harder work than at sea level and so we have to slow down to help compensate, which because we have slowed down, we may feel colder, especially on summit days. There is less oxygen in the air as we get higher, this can lead to ‘altitude sickness’ or Acute Mountain Sickness (headache, nausea, weakness, fatigue, dizziness) and can develop into a very serious and even fatal problem. We make sure we do everything at a slow, steady pace and keep ourselves hydrated, two key factors in acclimatising successfully. Most people do not experience any problems at altitude, provided they ascend slowly and are sensible about any altitude symptoms. If you do have any problems, we are equipped with a Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC bag) and a satellite phone to aid evacuation. Our leaders are experienced in recognising the symptoms and dealing with the effects of altitude and are there to help make decisions relating to your safety on the mountain. We have an excellent success rate on Aconcagua, but altitude sickness is not to be taken lightly or hidden! It is important to let your leader know if you feel the onset of any symptoms such as headache, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, breathlessness, numbness or tingling, coughing, or any other unusual symptoms.
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26. Several pairs of warm gloves 27. Glove liners 1. Lightweight shorts (made of a quick drying / breathable material)
28. Warm hat 29. Sun hat
2. Trekking trousers (made of a quick drying / breathable
30. Quick dry ‘paclite’ towel
material)
31. Sunscreen factor 30+ Lip salve with sunblock
3. Socks (we recommend Merino wool for warmth and breathability - 3-4 pairs)
32. Insect repellent & antihistamines
4. Underwear (3-4 pairs – wash as you go!)
34. Personal medical kit
5. Wicking t-shirts and long-sleeved tops (2 of each)
35. Wash kit (See first aid notes below for medical kit requirements)
6. 2x Lightweight fleece
33. Wet wipes
7. 1x Heavyweight fleece 8. Waterproof Gore-Tex trousers and jacket 9. Trekking boots 10. Flip flops /crocs/ sandals for camps 11. 4/5 season down sleeping bag 12. 4 season down jacket 13. Plastic mountaineering boots. For example Scarpa Vega or La Sportiva Spantik are good options. 14. Ice axe 15. Crampons 16. Harness 17. 2 x screw gate karabiners 18. 2 x prussic loops 19. 2 x slings 20. 2 x water bottles (camelbacks are fine for the trek but are not suitable for summit day as they can freeze) 21. Sleeping mat/thermarest 22. 2x good quality sunglasses (category 4 UV block) 23. Goggles 24. Head torch and spare batteries 25. Thermals
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COURSE LEVEL: Ability 1
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION Keep weight of your wash kit to an absolute minimum! iPod / personal stereo & camera You will be carrying the majority of your kit throughout the expedition and will therefore need a large pack (70-80 Litres), as well as a kit bag for items you will not be carrying yourself while trekking. If you do not wish to carry your personal gear we can arrange an extra porter for an additional cost. INSURANCE You will need to purchase specialist travel insurance that covers cancellation, medical and mountain rescue. Make sure that it covers glaciated mountaineering and climbing. We recommend the Dogtag (www.dogtag. co.uk) - they have comprehensive policies and a good reputation. MORE INFORMATION AND BOOKING TEAM MEMBERSHIP The team will have the maximum size of 12 climbers and 3 guides. You will find that the guides on Aconcagua are to be among the strongest and most experienced on the mountain. The number of guides is determined by the team size but the normal ratio of guides to members is 1:4 for the classic route climb. The operation of the expedition is subject to the minimum team number requirements being met.
FITNESS LEVEL: C Full Price Course Includes: Our qualified Dream Guides leader and local staff, transfers between Mendoza airport and our hotel, 2 star accommodation in Mendoza including breakfast, fully supported trek including all meals on trial, mule supported trek to base camp (maximum 25 kg per person), group equipment of tents, stoves, ropes, and necessary supplies for a successful summit bid, porter service of team equipment (group members will carry team food). Personal porters are available for additional cost. FULL COURSE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE: Personal gear, excess equipment over 25 kg per person, international flights and departure tax, Visa fee, lunch and dinner whilst in Mendoza, drinks in Mendoza and Penitentes, national park fee, personal porters, tipping, and sightseeing trips in Mendoza. Any costs associated with an early departure from the trip, ground or air evacuations, and items of personal nature including insurance liability, hospitalization, or medication of any kind are also not included. For those who want to attempt the Polish Glacier route the cost is from $12,800 each for two people (the client to guide ratio is 1:1 or 2:1). Please contact our office direct for more details.
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have a sunny day with little wind suddenly change into an extremely cold day with intense winds and snow storms.
OUR LEADERS Our trip to Aconcagua will be led by a qualified Altitude Mountain Guide or Mountain Leader. All of our leaders have a valid first aid certificate, have a wealth of experience at altitude, and are highly versed in recognising and dealing with the symptoms of altitude sickness. We are extremely careful in our selection of leaders, and make sure that not only are all of our staff known personally to us, but also that we choose the right leader for the right trip. With Dream Guides you will be looked after by Matias Erroz, whose experience on Aconcagua is second-to-none, and to whom your safety and well-being are paramount. Matoco is a qualified high Altitude Mountain Guide (EPGAM). Having worked on the mountain for over a decade, his summits number over 30 from many different faces and his specialisations are the normal route and the Polish Glacier. Beyond Argentina, Matoco is known for his personal and professional climbing in Peru, Bolivia, Pakistan and Nepal, including Mt Everest in 2011 and Mt Lhotse, without oxygen in 2010. He is a very active and experienced rock and ice climber and has been honoured for his extreme rescue skills in the Himalayas in 2011. CLIMATE / WEATHER The weather on Aconcagua can be severe and at times extreme and is one of the most important obstacles that those wanting to embark on the climb should consider. The principle factors to keep in mind when climbing this mountain are the extremely low humidity, the intense solar radiation, the strong winds that habitually whip through the area, the large temperature range, the electric storms, and the rapid changes in weather conditions. It is not unheard of to
These conditions can happen all at once, and even though it has a lower elevation the factors listed above make Mount Aconcagua comparable to an 8000 meter Himalayan ascent. The dryness of the environment can make you lose a large amount of bodily liquids, and for this reason it is imperative to keep yourself hydrated. In the base camps, when the climate is mild the high temperature can range from 10º C to 20º C. During the day it is possible to wear summer clothing, however when the weather is bad, it affects all of the Aconcagua Park and the temperature in these camps can reach -10º C / -15º in summer evenings. Above an altitude of 5000 meters during the summer, it is possible to have temperatures of -20º at night. Whilst at the summit, temperatures can reach -30ºC during the day. TRAVEL ARRANGEMENTS Some people like to arrive early and spend some time in Argentina before their trip, some may do this after the trip, and others may be pushed for time and need to head back to work. In order to retain this flexibility we offer a land-only package and you should arrange your own flights. We have found if you travel via the Santiago route this can be simpler and direct. We also recommend planning your flights as soon in advance as possible. Our service includes an airport transfer to your hotel in Mendoza, so you should let us know your flight details and whether you require a transfer. PASSPORTS AND VISA It is important to make sure your passport is up to date and valid for 6 months after your departure date. During your travel to Argentina if you are going to be flying via the US at any point you must have the appropriate visas for these stopovers. If you are unsure contact your airline for further advice. DREAM-GUIDES.COM INFO@DREAM-GUIDES.COM . +44 (0) 845 564 52 19
medications to last the trip. We would also recommend visiting your dentist before a long trip to altitude. Whilst climbing Aconcagua in the official season (November to March) there is free medical assistance and prevention service. PERMITS To enter Mt Aconcagua Provincial Park, it is necessary to obtain a personal Mount Aconcagua climbing permit from Cuba building, Mendoza city (Las Tipas and Los Robles Avenue, General San MartĂn Park). When applying for the permit you must bring with you an original passport, complete the expedition form, and take with you your deposit ticket to make their payment (in Argentine pesos and in cash) to a cashier. Permit prices vary on the time of year between AR2200- AR3000 (US530 -720). By signing this permit, the climber releases the Administration of Renewable Natural Resources (governmental institution in charge of the administration of Mt. Aconcagua Park) and the Government of Mendoza from all responsibility for the accidents that could occur to the climber inside the park and accepts the regulations in the Statute of Use of the Park.
FIRST AID We will provide a substantial first aid kit with our trip for emergencies, but you should also bring your own personal medical kit with the following items: plasters, painkillers, rehydration salts and diarrhoea treatment (dioralyte and Imodium), a broad spectrum antibiotic, antiseptic cream, antihistamine cream & tablets, Diamox and any other medication you might require. FURTHER INFORMATION If you have any questions regarding this trip, please contact us through the website WWW.DREAM-GUIDES.COM. We all have first-hand knowledge of Aconcagua and look forward to hearing from you!
ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD All accommodation is on a twin-share basis, so if travelling alone you may be paired up with another client of the same sex. It may be possible to pay a supplement for a single room in the hotel, and/or a single tent, please contact us for further details. Whilst on trek, all meals are provided, our cook team is excellent and will keep you going with tasty and nourishing meals. Whilst in Plaza de Mulas amenities will include; shower, internet cafĂŠ, phones, and the opportunity to buy drinks. VACCINATIONS AND HEALTH You should consult your doctor for up to date information about vaccination requirements, but we would recommend the following vaccinations. You should discuss with your GP the management of any ailments you may have and bring enough
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