Fashion Fantasies

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FASHION VOLUME 1 | ISSUE 1

FANTASIES THE EIGHT STYLE TRENDS THAT DEFINE GEN Z CULTURE

CULTURAL & SEMIOTIC

analysis of social content CONVERSATIONS WITH

GEN Z TREND SETTERS

AI ANALYSIS of s of looks

100

OPPORTUNITIES

for brands to cut-through and stay relevant

THE CHALLENGING REALITIES OF GEN Z, AND THEIR ESCAPE THROUGH STYLE


FASHION FANTASIES

CUTTING THROUGH THE #CORES Adolescents and youth cultures are almost always the ones to set the trends in fashion and beauty. Studies show that adolescents, teens and young adults allocate more time to their public appearance than other demographics. Their freedom (lack of responsibility in careers, children) alongside the journey of self-discovery that teenage years bring (shifting from child to adult, finding their values and place in the world) provides the perfect cocktail to set the fashion and beauty trends of the moment. This is why, when predicting the future of fashion and beauty, we need to look to the youth. Alongside this, fashion and beauty is deeply psychological. It is the decoration of our IRL avatar. Our style choices communicate information to others about who we are on the inside. 2

Studying historical shifts in style reveals deeper truths around the human condition, and where our aspiration lies today. The style of today’s youth, however, appears sporadic and unpredictable to the untrained eye. The oh-somany cores happen seemingly at random are a nightmare to keep track of, with new trends born daily.

SO HOW CAN BRANDS TRULY UNDERSTAND WHAT IS NEXT? AND HOW CAN THEY MEANINGFULLY CONNECT WITH THIS AUDIENCE?


WHAT WE DID... TREND-SPOTTING First, we cast our net wide. Our in-house team of Trend Researchers, Cultural Analysts and Semioticians reviewed catwalk styles and fashion trend reports across the Globe - identifying a huge set of fashion hashtags and trending cores. We wanted a comprehensive view of the different fashion and beauty aesthetics trending today.

SEMIOTICS AT SCALE We fed these looks (hundreds of them!) into our Ignite AI platform. The platform can spot overarching patterns in the dataset – translating a huge dataset into a set of core patterns (or ‘clusters’) based on Semiotic similarity. Our Semioticians then delved into the clusters, unpicking everything from colours through to patterns, textures and power poses; unpicking what is both said and unsaid behind the looks.

LEADING-EDGE ETHNO Discussions with our Ignite Collective trendsetters saw us delve deeper into our codes; understanding the cultural tensions, frustrations and dreams that sit behind each look. We mapped our synthesised codes back to our human values framework, revealing the hidden desires that sit at the heart of each trend.

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FASHION FANTASIES

ONE OVERARCHING TRUTH:

FASHION HAS SHIFTED AWAY FROM SUBCULTURAL UNIFORMS, TOWARDS FANTASTICAL ESCAPISM

In the past, youth style was largely dictated by subcultures of the time. Fashion choices were a way to pledge allegiance to our ‘in-group’. Mods, rockers, greasers through to goths, emos, jocks… These cliques remained relatively fixed, and teenage years could be viewed as a book of chapters. Each chapter dedicated to a subculture, with its fashions and respective beliefs. Today’s youth are fundamentally different. The combination of globalisation, social media and wide-spread fashion distribution means young people today have a more diverse palette to draw from – both in inspiration and product availability. As a result, they are much more fluid in their fashion choices and are less fixed to one clique or subgroup. 4

The tautological with multiplicity. Each Gen Z styles can each be distilled down into a desire to escape and challenge the macroenvironment of today. Whether it be a desire to be wealthy in declining economies; a need to manifest in filth during a time of perfection and cleanliness; or a nostalgia for simpler times whilst the world prioritises technology and efficiency. Gen Z are using fashion as a way to rebel against the now and play in different fantastical worlds. Worlds better than our own.

Through studying these choices and uncovering what exactly it is Gen Z are escaping from, we can provide guidance to brands on how to speak to the Gen Z mindset.

LET’S DIG IN...


8 KEY TRENDS 8 UNDERLYING DREAMS.

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FASHION FANTASIES

QUAINT CUTENESS ESCAPING FROM MODERNITY

INTO A DREAM OF CAREFREE LIVING

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GEN Z ARE ESCAPING FROM FAST-PACED MODERN LIFE BY ROMANTICISING TRADITIONAL, FEMININE AESTHETICS

Americana and rustic ideals. What unites these looks is a desire for a simpler life. A yearning for cosy, domestic worlds. In these worlds, people are makers, repairers and creators, not consumers.

During the pandemic, when horizons narrowed and time expanded, we embraced a slower way of living. The joy of domestic duties such as baking, growing and knitting gave birth to the rise in popularity of Cottagecore and its charming, rural aesthetics.

Quaint Cuteness knowingly uses the conventional cues of classic femininity. Frills, puffed sleeves and ballet shoes are paired with classic domestic items like picnic blankets and kitchen crockery. Natural motifs and traditional fabrics cue a lost arcadia.

As society rushes forwards, Gen Z look backwards, finding inspiration from the Victorian era, Rococo, vintage


KEY CREATORS

@SWANNANDTHEBERRIES @NADIIIFE @MEGANSOIGNE

@swannandtheberries

@ALLTHEFERALFAWNS THE COTTAGE FAIRY

For Gen Z, particularly women, toying with a life of traditional duties is a fun thought experiment. Transporting oneself from the hectic corporate world and prioritising your domestic unit is tonic for the soul. The sartorial time travel of Quaint Cuteness offers Gen Z an escape from capitalism and modern wasteful living. It is the fantasy of self-sufficiency in a society that prioritises productivity. The past is a foreign country, let’s move there.

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@THATGIRLCALLEDGABBY @THE_VINTAGEARIAN


FASHION FANTASIES

COQUETTE & BALLETCORE COTTAGECORE

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uff sleeves, gingham, bodices and pastel colours lean into traditional femininity, they are paired with natural settings and symbols like mushrooms and flowers. More androgynous versions share the muted tones and nature motifs, but with simpler silhouettes.

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C

oquette / Dollette trends lean into hyperfemininity, with pink and white ensembles, and historical ornamental aesthetics, like Rococo. Features like ribbons and pumps are inspired by the popular Balletcore trend.


QUAINT CUTENESS

EUROSUMMER / TOMATO GIRL

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ost-pandemic travel boosted the trend of having a ‘Euro-summer’, with ‘old world’ parallels to the aristocratic Grand Tour. The Tomato Girl trend embodies this romanticised vision of idyllic, Mediterranean living.

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ESCAPING VIA A ROMANTIC PAST

QUAINT CUTENESS AESTHETICS BLEND HISTORY AND FANTASY TO CREATE AN ESCAPE INTO A ROMANTICISED VISION OF THE PAST


FASHION FANTASIES

THE DATA

Quaint Cuteness peaks on the Love metric, with Fun, Relaxation, Legacy and Empathy also featuring high in the mix. When dressing in Quaint Cute style Gen Z are feeling at ease. Challenge, Identity and Achievement under index. Brands seeking to play in this space must communicate feelings of contentment.

CASE STUDIES

HILL HOUSE HOME

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Hill House Home designed and trademarked the Nap Dress – a comfortable, puff sleeve maxi dress – which boomed in popularity during the pandemic. Their clothing and homeware collections evoke a relaxed, domestic lifestyle.

LOVESHACKFANCY LoveShackFancy draws on Coquette symbols like bows, flowers and bright pink to create a fantastical, hyper-feminine aesthetic. This has extended from the fashion space into beauty, with their branded fragrances and collaborations with other cult brands, like Supergoop, integrating Coquette symbols into packaging.


QUAINT CUTENESS

BRAND

OPPORTUNITIES

BRANDS CAN PLAY INTO THE ROMANTICISED LIFESTYLE BY CREATING A COHERENT BRAND IDENTITY ALIGNED WITH LIGHTNESS AND NATURAL LIVING

BRAND TAKEAWAY MAKE IT CUTE

– Feature the key decorative elements like frills and bows that characterise Quaint Cuteness aesthetics across packaging, apparel and accessories. Craft a total look.

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LIFESTYLE CHOICE

Create a cohesive, romanticised brand across lifestyle categories, including fashion, beauty and homeware. Show Gen Z how your products assist a relaxed, domestic existence.

ALL THINGS SEASONAL

– Draw from the natural elements and rituals of the current season. From motifs of in-season fruit to creating looks for seasonal activities from picnics to apple picking – position your brand to Gen Z as in tune with nature’s cycle.


FASHION FANTASIES

BODY HACKING ESCAPING FROM

LIMITATIONS

INTO CELEBRATING ME GEN Z DO NOT WANT TO FEEL LIMITED BY THEIR CURRENT APPEARANCE. THEY ARE TAKING CONTROL USING SMART SOLUTIONS TO LOOK AND FEEL THEIR BEST Fitness culture is influencing fashion and beauty evermore, as we fetishise healthy lifestyles and a commitment to self-care. Sculpted bodies and glowing skin have become an outward signifier of effort and achievement, and Gen Z are not keeping theirs under wraps. 12

From showcasing the body with highperformance sportswear, to altering it with shapewear, or enhancing it via personalised assessments, body confident Gen Z are celebrating the physical form in Body Hacking style. Body Hacking materials are designed to compress, skim, cling, drape, smooth, shape and display. Cuts are minimalist and colours are muted, or carefully harmonised to the individual’s skin tone. The gaze should be drawn to the body. The role of clothing is to accentuate, never dominate.


KEY CREATORS @ELLANJSTYLE

@THEOUTFITCURATOR @FOURSEASONS.STUDIO @ellanjstyle

@MARSHALLCREWS @LEXIELEARMANN

This resourceful generation are finding shortcuts to physical perfection via online communities. Accessing tips, reviewing viral items, sharing ‘dupes’ and reviving the body typing systems and colour consultations as popularised in the 80s. Body Hacking is an escape from the tyranny of trying to fit trending styles, to finding flattering fashion that provides a platform for our features. And if there’s a smarter way to get there, Gen Z will find it. Wake up. Work out. Look hot. Kick ass.

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@MARIAVICTORIATG @ALISHAREVEL


FASHION FANTASIES

BODY & COLOUR THEORY MUSCLE MOMMYS AND GYM BROS

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n ‘Gymtok’, gym outfits are used to highlight body contours and muscle definition, from compression tops to show off upper bodies, to scrunch shorts to accentuate glutes. Chunky headphones and trainers complete the look.

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ody typing systems are being revived from 80s style consultants. From colour analysis – identifying complementary colours to find your ‘season’ – to Kibbe body typing – which categorises your body type using Old Hollywood archetypes. ‘Silhouette roulette’ videos similarly use categorisation to trial outfit combinations and show how to enhance your silhouette.


BODY HACKING

SHAPEWEAR

S

hapewear is being popularised by cult brands and becoming so mainstream that it is being worn as outerwear. Online conversation on viral items and ‘dupes’ focuses on achieving the best results for the best value.

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ESCAPING VIA

OPTIMISATION BODY HACKING TRENDS VIEW THE BODY AS A FOUNDATION WITH FASHION AND BEAUTY TIPS AND TRICKS USED TO ENHANCE THE NATURAL FORM


FASHION FANTASIES

THE DATA

Body Hacking spikes on the Courage metric, with Wellbeing, Challenge and Empowerment following closely behind. When dressing in Body Hacking styles Gen Z are communicating to the world that they are confident. Legacy and Desire under index. This style is all about making Gen Z feel good in the present.

CASE STUDIES

SKIMS

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Kim Kardashian’s brand Skims is a key player in the shapewear market. Viral items like the bodysuit have been popularised to the point of becoming outerwear. Skims’ muted palettes also contribute to wider minimalist fashion trends.

FUNCTION OF BEAUTY Function of Beauty is a personalised haircare and skincare brand that allows customers to customise their products to their needs and preferences. They use scientific language and cues like lab imagery to reinforce claims of technical expertise.


BODY HACKING

OPPORTUNITIES

FOR BRANDS

BRANDS SHOULD UTILISE NEW TECHNOLOGIES AND EXPERT KNOWLEDGE TO PROVIDE THE BEAUTY AND FASHION HACKS THAT CUSTOMERS VALUE

BRAND TAKEAWAY KEEP IT SLEEK

– Build sculpted silhouettes into everyday fashion. Take the compression technologies and sleek shapes of sportswear and gymwear into clothing that can be worn day to day, building on the shapewear-as-outwear and athleisure trends.

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IT’S PERSONAL

Focus on customisation to meet personal needs and features, rather than simply a space for play. Services like personalised formulations or colour consultations help Gen Z feel like they are optimising their product experience.

LET’S GET PHYGITAL

– Use ‘phygital’ technologies to elevate the fitting experience. From digital fitting rooms to interactive sizing guides, utilise technology to make flattering the physical form a positive experience.


FASHION FANTASIES

BOHO BLEND ESCAPING FROM

PURPOSELESSNESS

INTO DIVERSE NATURAL AND SPIRITUAL INFLUENCES GEN Z SEEK PURPOSE. THEY WANT TO MAKE THE WORLD A BETTER PLACE. THEIR SPIRITUAL INNER JOURNEYS ARE REFLECTED IN OUTWARD STYLES Society grows ever more digital and urbanised, whilst the natural world around us degenerates. The negative impact on our physical and mental health is profound. Gen Z blend ideologies in a quest to heal minds, reconnect with nature and transcend this cruel, materialistic world. 18

Gen Z are embracing alternative sources of guidance. Astrology, witchcraft, gurus and therapists, psychedelic drugs and the exploration of ancestral traditions. Nothing is out of bounds as this progressive generation seek out better remedies for body, mind and soul. Boho Blend style brings together an eclectic mix of natural and spiritual references. Combining bohemian aesthetics with more esoteric elements like 00s pop culture or goth style, to create entirely new hybrid forms.


KEY CREATORS @SOPHIE.SEDDON @_EMMJAAY @OATMILK24 @allyzaam

@THEWORLDOFISHMAEL. INKS @MILKSHAKKEDD

Natural fibers, loose fits and earthy tones are adorned with beads, shells and precious metals, reminiscent of hippie fashion in the 60s and 70s, Victorian romantic and gothic aesthetics. The underlying ethos is one of solace in spiritualty and peaceful co-existence between humans and nature. Worshiping at the altar of consumerism is leaving us feeling spiritually bereft. Boho Blend is a style that epitomises young people’s dream of better selves and a better world. Fashion on the path to enlightenment. 19

@THEEANISAGENESIS @HIPPIEHUED @FLEURMINGO_


FASHION FANTASIES

WITCHCORE & WHIMSIGOTH Y2K BOHO

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he Y2K trend has brought out hippie and boho sides of 00s aesthetics, bringing together maxi skirts and tie dye with 00s iconic items like spaghetti straps and chunky belts.

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W

itchcore plays into the online revival of witchcraft, as seen in the TikTok community Witchtok. Whimsigoth blends dark gothic styles with a whimsical hippie twist to embody the Witchtok aesthetic.


BOHO BLEND

EARTHY BLACK GIRL/BOY

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he Earthy ‘Black Girl/Boy’ aesthetic combines typical hippie or boho aesthetics with Afrocentric elements, such as waist beads and natural hairstyles like locs.

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ESCAPING VIA AESTHETIC BLENDING

BOHO BLEND’S NEW AESTHETIC COMBINATIONS TAP INTO BOTH NOSTALGIA AND IDEALISM, PROVIDING ESCAPE INTO A MORE PEACEFUL, HOPEFUL WORLD


FASHION FANTASIES

THE DATA

Boho Blend spikes on the Indulgence, Identity and Desire communication metrics. Under-indexing in Fulfillment, Achievement and Challenge, as well as Stability, Safety and Belonging. Dressing in this style communicates a willingness to push against societal norms. Brands should seek to match this free-spirted mindset.

CASE STUDIES

MOON JUICE ASOS RECLAIMED

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ASOS Reclaimed - a branch of the fashion brand using vintage and repurposed materials – blends Y2K nostalgia and bohemian styles. Other high street brands like Cider and Urban Outfitters are also blending aesthetics, with online edits responding to trends like Whimsigoth.

Moon Juice offers both skincare products and nutritional supplements using adaptogens (natural substances considered to reduce stress) that are intended to be used together as part of their holistic beauty regimen. The brand psychedelic and spiritual cues, with soft pastel gradients and language like ‘potion’ and ‘cosmic’.


BOHO BLEND

OPPORTUNITIES

FOR BRANDS

BRANDS CAN RESONATE WITH GEN Z’S FLUID APPROACH TO SPIRITUAL AESTHETICS BY OFFERING SPACE TO EXPERIMENT AND ADAPT, WHILE STAYING ALIGNED TO THEIR IDEALS OF NATURAL AND HOLISTIC LIVING

BRAND TAKEAWAY WHY SO SERIOUS?

– Gen Z are leading the renewed interest in alternative spiritual practices, but they are also the most likely to make memes about it and avoid seriousness. Reflect this ironic approach by exaggerating cliché hippie and boho imagery for a nostalgic look, or pair with down-to-earth language for contrast. 23

WHOLE SELF

For Gen Z beauty and wellness taps into ideals of holistic living. Products are valued when they tackle root causes and offer benefits for both body and mind.

FLEXIBLE STYLING

– The ‘mix and blend’ attitude of these styles is reflected in loose, flowy clothing. Elements like drawstring ties or reversible patterns will resonate with Gen Z’s desire for an adaptable, freeflowing lifestyle.


FASHION FANTASIES

STATELY STYLE ESCAPING FROM INSECURITY

INTO A WORLD OF WEALTH GEN Z ARE ESCAPING FROM FINANCIAL INSECURITY AND UNCERTAINTY ABOUT THEIR FUTURES VIA QUIETLY AND TIMELESSLY AFFLUENT LOOKS With careers stalled by the pandemic and a cost-of-living crisis, living paycheck to paycheck, Gen Z can only dream of the financial security of older generations. The traditionally ‘wealthy’ look has taken its hold. Manifesting the ambition to appear refined, put together, and oh so quietly affluent.

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Gen Z are dressing sharp and embracing timeless classics associated with ‘old money’. Shown in trending aesthetics like Coastal Grandma and Tennis Core, these looks are heavily inspired by elite universities and country clubs. A world of ease and entitlement, of composure and class, of certainty. ‘Old money’ style is epitomised by popular TV shows like The White Lotus and Succession. It centers on high quality, investment pieces. A symphony of linen shirts, cashmere jumpers, silks and tailoring. Tasteful staples that can be styled to any


KEY CREATORS @EMILYMARIKO

@SOFIARICHIEGRAINGE @FRANZISKANAZARENUS @franziskanazarenus

@GRACEANDGRACETIKTOK @LUIGI.LAURO

trend, elevating the wearer above the vicious cycle of fast fashion. ‘New money’ style is Keeping Up With the Kardashians and Real Housewives. Flaunting wealth via fast cars and glitzy style. It screams hustle culture and a lifetime of tireless grinding and chasing money. To dress in Stately Style is to live out the fantasy of being part of generational wealth – inherited, or married into, not earned. To be forever wealthy, and not just pay-day rich. To glide through life. Money talks, but wealth whispers. 25

@VIKTORWIDLUND


FASHION FANTASIES

OLD MONEY & QUIET LUXURY

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opular TV shows like Succession are spotlighting the lifestyles of the uber wealthy and highlighting a minimalist Old Money style. The Quiet Luxury trend emphasises the discretion and simplicity of affluent style.

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COASTAL GRANDMOTHER/ GRANDDAUGHTER

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oastal Grandmother is more relaxed version of Old-Money aesthetics, associated with a quiet life of leisure. The Coastal Granddaughter trend gives the aesthetic a younger twist and plays further into the idea of generational wealth, where taste and style is inherited.


STATELY STYLE

ESCAPING VIA CORPORATE BADDIE

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or Gen Z dressing for the office can feel like more of an occasion than routine. Formal styles are reminiscent of 80s power dressing, helping them to navigate the uncertainty of work environments and channel success within corporate structures.

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TIMELESS SIMPLICITY

STATELY STYLE AESTHETICS EMBODY SIMPLE, STREAMLINED LOOKS, SMOOTHLY FITTING INTO AGE-OLD INSTITUTIONS


FASHION FANTASIES

THE DATA

Stately Style spikes on the Achievement and Security metrics, with Mastery also high in the mix. When dressing in Stately Style Gen Z are communicating a sense of having everything in order. Under indexing on Challenge, Vitality and Enjoyment suggests that brands in this space should communicate in a quiet, understated manner.

CASE STUDIES

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

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Brunello Cucinelli is a luxury brand circulated around TikTok as an Old Money style recommendation, with most of its minimalistic items costing at least £1,000. It is seen as epitomising Quiet Luxury due to its lack of marketing or logos.

JO MALONE Jo Malone uses symbols of wealth and authority in their packaging, like monograms and serif font, to assert the quality of their products. The brand has also collaborated with influencers to create content that situates the brand in the Quiet Luxury trend.


STATELY STYLE

OPPORTUNITIES

FOR BRANDS

CREATE SPACE FOR YOUR BRAND TO BECOME ‘INSIDER KNOWLEDGE’, BE DISCRETE AND LET BRAND HERITAGE AND QUALITY DO THE TALKING

BRAND TAKEAWAY NO LOGO

– Steer clear of ‘logo maina’, remove visible logos and prominent brand names from items. Leverage peerto-peer influence and ‘quieter’ forms of ‘in the know’ marketing.

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CROSS-GENERATIONAL STYLE

Show Gen Z how styles have transcended generations and fashion fads to highlight timelessness. Illustrate how items were styled in previous eras, or show an item worn by several generations of a family, to signal permanence.

HERITAGE PLAY

– Point to brand legacy and history, from a strong origin story to documenting use of the brand in different historic periods. Play into Gen Z desire to feel part of age-old institutions.


FASHION FANTASIES

HEAVY DUTY ESCAPING FROM

VULNERABILITY

INTO ARMOUR FOR URBAN ENVIRONMENTS GEN Z ARE ESCAPING FROM A SENSE OF POWERLESSNESS AND VULNERABILITY BY EMBRACING HARDY AND DURABLE STYLES FOR EVERYDAY LIVING Climate breakdown and economic instability are driving record levels of anxiety amongst young people. In these turbulent times, clothing acts as armour. Robust materials are deployed for everyday living, offering Gen Z welcome protection against hostile environments. 30

Heavy Duty’s inventory ranges from utility wear borrowed from blue collar workers, Gorpcore’s technical fabrics, as favored by hikers and snowboarders, through to the structured dystopian silhouettes of apocalypse survivors. Uniforms fashioned out of strong materials with resistant qualities. An evolution of 00s and 10s industrial chic, Gen Z are repurposing the traditional ‘hardy’ attire of manual labour, or extreme sports, in less strenuous urban lifestyles. Waterproofs, cargo pants, vintage workwear and puffer jackets providing their last line of defense.


KEY CREATORS @STEEZYY_STEVE_ @PHUCBUI0 @J0TANAHN @phucbui0

@CHEZ.AMELIE @TVELOR

There is a philosophy of smart selfreliance. Big-name brands are prized when vintage or rare items are unlocked, whilst DIY customisation signifies rugged survivalism. The durability and simplicity of the clothing aligns with an ethos of sustainable consumption driven by climate consciousness. Dressing in Heavy Duty style is an escape from vulnerability, a shortcut to safety in a volatile world. It represents Gen Z’s need for agency and autonomy. To feel confident when entering the fray. Choose your fighter! 31


FASHION FANTASIES

UTILITARIAN WORKWEAR GORPCORE

U G

orpcore takes outdoor extreme sports clothing into street style, as a more extreme evolution of the Athleisure trend of the 10s. Key pieces include waterproof trousers, puffer jackets and structured bags.

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tilitarian workwear trends focus on iconic items and brands, like cargo pants and Carhartt. The passion for vintage workwear shows the interest in its heritage and durability.


HEAVY DUTY

DYSTOPIACORE & AVANT APOCALYPSE

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ystopian aesthetics play with a mix of hardy and lightweight textures, layering materials to create an ‘armour’ for the apocalypse. DIY elements, like tearing clothing and tying string, represents the resilience and adaptability required in a dystopian world.

ESCAPING VIA

PROTECTION

HEAVY DUTY BORROWS HARDY CLOTHING FROM EXTREME ENVIRONMENTS AND WORKWEAR TO DEPLOY IN EVERYDAY SETTINGS


FASHION FANTASIES

THE DATA

Heavy Duty spikes on the Protection metric, with Security and Safety following closely behind. When dressing in Heavy Duty attire Gen Z are clearly communicating to the world that they are shielding from harm. Fun and Enjoyment under index. Brands in this space need to play it practical and straight.

CASE STUDIES

BLACKHEAD STUDIO CARHARTT

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Carhartt led the rise of workwear as street style, building on its legacy of providing workwear for blue collar industries. Content for its magazine – WIP and social media channels increasingly locates the brand within youth-led subcultures like skating or techno music.

Blackhead Studio creates facial accessories that elevate makeup looks with a dystopian edge. The trend of metalware and metallic beauty has also been explored by high fashion brands like Diesel and Valentino, creating an editorial style that shows a futuristic blending of human and technology.


HEAVY DUTY

OPPORTUNITIES

FOR BRANDS

BRANDS NEED TO SHOW BOTH THE REALITY AND FANTASY OF DURABLE STYLES, FOR FASHION AND BEAUTY THAT PERFORMS AS WELL AS IT LOOKS

BRAND TAKEAWAY DIY ETHIC

– Offer opportunities for Gen Z to salvage and customise key items. Repairs, in-store ‘workshops’ and edits of vintage pieces play into the self-reliance mindset of this trend.

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MULTI-FUNCTIONAL

Demonstrate versatility across different environments, by showing outfits worn everywhere from the outdoors to the office. Deconstruct the technical elements of clothing to emphasise durability and performance.

NEXT GEN BEAUTY

– Tap into the protective aesthetic by creating beauty products that extend the body, rather than just enhancing it. Suggest the blending of physical and digital worlds with face accessories and metallic make-up.


FASHION FANTASIES

FAN FAVOURITE ESCAPING FROM

DISCONNECTION

INTO TAKING FANDOM FROM URL TO IRL

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GEN Z ARE ESCAPING FROM LONELINESS, TAKING THE PASSIONS AND COMMUNITIES THEY FOUND ONLINE INTO THE REAL WORLD

If fandoms are the warm embrace of a likeminded community, then Fan Favourite style is the ticket to enter the club. From wearing feather boas or club colours to an event, to pledging allegiance to an ‘alternative’ style, these are looks that mark you out as part of the tribe.

It is nice to be an individual, but it is wonderful to be part of something bigger. Post-pandemic, young people are bringing fandoms from the online world into the outside world. Because nothing beats that warm fuzzy feeling you get when you belong.

Fashion in Fan Favourite style acts as a beacon, linking other members of the subculture together. Finding that rare football strip or spending months creating your Eras tour outfit are all part of the experience.


KEY CREATORS @FITSWITHLYD

@ALICESSANDRAA @ROSIETEDDYSHOP @robyngunn23

@BUNNY_ALINA_KIM @EINFACHMINH

Whilst the unaffiliated might call out the homogeneity of Fan Favourite aesthetics, young people are increasingly owning the narrative and unapologetically embracing what they truly love. It’s ok to let your inner ‘stan’ out. Fan Favourite is an escape from loneliness and awkwardness to a place where we have permission to be our fullest, most passionate selves. A paradise of love, energy and human connection. If you know, you know.

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@VIDELASARCHIVE @LISAANDLENA @ROBYNGUNN23


FASHION FANTASIES

BLOKECORE / BLOKETTE CORE CONCERT OUTFITS

H

arry Styles, Taylor Swift, Beyoncé and beyond – big arena concerts have returned since Covid. Favourite albums or iconic items are referenced in detailed outfits. Dressing up is a group activity, with popular posts showing the outfits of friendship groups and fellow attendees.

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B

lokecore aficionados share vintage or niche football kits in outfit videos that showcase their expert knowledge. There is also an ironic Blokette style combining kits and sportswear with feminine Coquette elements like bows and skirts, contrasting with a stereotypically masculine fandom.


FAN FAVOURITE

ESCAPING VIA E-BOY/ E-GIRL

S

een as the anime / gaming aesthetic, E-boy/ E-girl fashion mixes references to alternative subcultures including goths, skaters and cosplay for a quintessentially ‘online’ look.

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AFFINITY

WHETHER CENTERED AROUND A PERSON, EVENT, TEAM OR SUBCULTURE, FAN FAVOURITE AESTHETICS CREATE A ‘UNIFORM’ FOR THEIR PASSIONATE COMMUNITY


FASHION FANTASIES

THE DATA

Fan Favourite peaks on the Enjoyment communication metric, with secondary peaks in Fun, Harmony and Stability. When dressing in Fan Favourite style Gen Z are enjoying being part of the crowd. Under-indexing in Relaxation, Purity and Identity reinforces the high-energy and kinship of this style, which brands can tap into.

CASE STUDIES

HOT TOPIC Hot Topic has its origins as the leading brand for alternative subcultures like goth and emo. It now actively leans into fandom as its own subculture, selling merch lines for pop stars and promoting ‘As Seen on Social’ collections that respond to internet virality. They even have a #HTFandom hashtag, where they spotlight fans of the Hot Topic brand itself. 40

YESSTYLE YesStyle makes the passion for Korean fashion and beauty, driven by the popularity K-pop and K-dramas, accessible to Western consumers. This included stocking cult ‘K beauty’ products, building on the hype around the curated 7-step Korean skincare routine, and the trend for ‘glass skin’.


FAN FAVOURITE

OPPORTUNITIES

FOR BRANDS

BRANDS DO NOT DEFINE FANDOMS AS MUCH AS THEY RESPOND TO THEM; CREATE OPPORTUNITIES FOR FANS TO COME TOGETHER AND ELEVATE FAN COMMUNITIES

BRAND TAKEAWAY BUILD A FANDOM

– Bring customers together at memorable in-person events and interactive online forums, allowing them to build affinity with a defined brand lifestyle and ethos.

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CALL AND RESPOND

When a subculture or community aligns with your brand, proactively engage with the members. Understand them, reflect their passions and tap into the loyalty of the collective via special editions and insider communities.

STAN THE FANS

– Tap into the wider interest in community by showcasing the creativity and passion of fandom collectives, from concert-goers to gamers. Campaigns and activations that platform fan voices and relationships provide an inspiring model of affinity for a Gen Z audience.


FASHION FANTASIES

PLAYING DRESS UP ESCAPING FROM

SADNESS & SERIOUSNESS

INTO POST-PANDEMIC HEDONISM AND MAIN CHARACTER ENERGY

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MAXIMALIST, COLOURFUL AESTHETICS OFFER GEN Z AN ESCAPE FROM A STRESSFUL AND SERIOUS ADULT WORLD

are thrown together with exuberance. Borrowing from cultures, eras and influences – from psychedelia and raving to Barbie and clowns – the more joyful the better.

When faced with monotonous lockdowns and uncertainty for the future, Gen Z decided to dress up and create moments of joy. Colourful and maximalist aesthetics rose in popularity and continue to shine bright in a lackluster postpandemic society.

This playful, experimental ethos parallels the experience of ‘playing dress-up’ as a child, creating different personas. It taps into Gen Z’s fantasy of being the ‘main character’, to view their self-expression through narrative tropes and romanticise their lives. We can all be icons.

Gen Z raid wardrobes, thrift stores and online market places, with a magpie-eye for acid brights, swirls, checks and bold accessories. Fits

Gen Z are subverting the seriousness of fashion through play. Reclaiming hyper-femininity and showing


KEY CREATORS

@ALIYAHSINTERLUDE @TINYJEWISHGIRL @SARACAMPZ

@artbymycha

@THATCURLYTOP @CORISTRIKE

that sustainability doesn’t have to mean solemnity. Joyful style can enhance their values, not compromise them. More than child’s play, Playing Dress Up helps Gen Z gain a sense of meaning while finding their identities in young adulthood, and to reject a mundane, overly serious approach to adult life. When life gives you lemons, wear lemon.

43

@TARACHANDRA @EVELILYCP @POLYCHROM3 @BREEKISH


FASHION FANTASIES

Y2K AND BARBIECORE #WEIRD GIRL AESTHETIC

T

he #Weird Girl Aesthetic reflects the thrown-on characteristics of fancy dress and costumes. It draws on the most iconic elements of subcultures, from rave culture to Clowncore with its origins in Harujuku style in Japan.

44

R

eflective of an increased interest in 00s trends and reclaiming femininity, with all-pink outfits and rhinestones. Aesthetics draw on nostalgia for celebrities of the recent past – such as Paris Hilton - with these styles now seen as ‘iconic’.


PLAYING DRESS UP

DOPAMINE DRESSING & AVANT BASIC

ESCAPING VIA JOYFULNESS & PLAY

PLAYING DRESS UP AESTHETICS CENTRE JOY AND PLAY, FROM CELEBRATING QUIRKINESS TO EMBRACING BRIGHT AND BOLD COLOURS

A

riot of mood-boosting colours and patterns. Trends like Dopamine Dressing and Avant Basic borrow cues from 60s and 70s fashion (e.g. psychedelic swirls)– reminiscent of the Summer of Love and its 45 associated freedoms.


FASHION FANTASIES

THE DATA

Playing Dress Up is an explosion of communication metrics. With primary spikes across Vitality, Belonging, Desire, Wellbeing and Purity, and secondary peaks across Transformation, Enjoyment, Escape and Courage. When Playing Dress Up Gen Z are being spirited and expressive. Brands and product launches need to match this energy.

CASE STUDIES

BIG BUD PRESS

46

Known for having up to 20 colourways and wide size range, customers feel seen as individuals. The bold 70s inspired designs and diverse marketing resonate with an ethos of joy and inclusivity.

STARFACE Starface are making skincare playful and turning acne treatment into space for personal expression, not shame, with their iconic star stickers. Brand collaborations – like Starface x Hello Kitty play with symbols of childhood nostalgia.


PLAYING DRESS UP

OPPORTUNITIES

FOR BRANDS

BRANDS CAN TAP INTO BOTH THE JOYFUL MINDSET AND THE COLOURFUL AND CLASHING DESIGN ELEMENTS OF PLAYING DRESS UP

BRAND TAKEAWAY MAIN CHARACTER ENERGY

– Live Gen Z values of individuality and fearless self-expression via product lines and brand communications. Use micro-influencer campaigns to leverage niche followings and build closeness.

47

TEXTURE PLAY

Enable Gen Z to fully immerse in dress up fantasies. Be playful with materials and textures. Offer surreal, cartoon-like designs that experiment with dimension and scale, and deliberately clunky, highly tactile accessories.

BE ICONIC

– Develop cult items that reflect Gen Z’s desire to be the star of the show. Collaborate with notable individuals and brands in different spaces to create iconic fashion moments.


FASHION FANTASIES

FASHIONABLY FERAL ESCAPING FROM PERFECTION

FROM ‘THAT GIRL‘ TO ‘RAT GIRL‘

48

GEN Z ARE PUSHING AGAINST EXPECTATIONS OF PRODUCTIVITY AND POLISHED PERFECTION TO EMBRACE A MESSIER, MORE CHAOTIC STYLE

From the celebration of the Indie Sleaze aesthetic through to the Rat Girl Summer and Frazzled English Woman, we’re seeing a new pride in anarchic style. Baggy clothing, leather and plaid, deliberately disheveled hair and make-up all cuing cool-kid insouciance.

This messy fashion movement can be traced back to the relaxing of dress codes during the pandemic. Sweatpants became everyday staples as we retreated into our dwellings and threw off the shackles of polite society. When restrictions ended, Gen Z held on to thrown-on looks.

Exhausted by the high standards of the Clean Girl / Guy aesthetic, with their flawless skin, early morning routines and polished outfits, Gen Z are rebelling by leaning in to their unpolished and un-showered inner ‘goblin’. They are refusing to be tamed.


KEY CREATORS @OLIVIATANN @XANDIBLU @PHUTTE @alicemcthickems

These looks hark back to the recent past of the 90s, 00s and 10s, before the prying eyes of social media. A time where people existed freely; when clothes and faces were not routinely captured and judged. Fashionably Feral is an escape from the confines of social expectation. A space where we can indulge our fantasy of hedonic self-destruction. Where we don’t feel the pressure to conform. Smells like Gen Z spirit!

49

@LOLAOKOLA


FASHION FANTASIES

INDIE SLEAZE/ TRUE THOUSANDS

GRUNGE/ALT REVIVAL

E C

oined to describe the aesthetic of late 00s to early 10s, there is a return to messy club-friendly clothing and smudged makeup, driven by nostalgia for pre-social media hedonism.

50

lements of the iconic 90s style, from flannel shirts to baggy trousers, are deconstructed in Grunge / Alt Revival for a new generation. This is matched with the revival of 90s alternative bands among Gen Z.


FASHIONABLY FERAL

ESCAPING VIA ROCKSTAR & ROCKSTAR GIRLFRIEND

EMBRACING CHAOS

FASHIONABLY FERAL REVIVES DISHEVELED LOOKS FROM THE HALCYON DAYS OF THE RECENT PAST, WHEN PEOPLE WERE FREE TO EXIST MESSILY

FRAZZLED ENGLISH WOMAN

T 51

he Rockstar trend draws on rockabilly and gothic cues, with red lipstick, lots of leather and cropped band tees. It romanticises the hedonism of a ‘I’m with the band’ lifestyle for a modern audience.

T

he Frazzled English Woman trend is inspired by the imperfect women of 00s rom coms- from Bridget Jones to Kate Winslet in The Holiday. Typically an autumn / winter style, this style is all about messy layering, with hats, scarves, bulky coats and cardigans.


FASHION FANTASIES

THE DATA

Fashionably Feral peaks on the Challenge and Purpose communication metrics, with Self-expression, Creativity, Identity and Exploration all high in the mix. When dressing in Fashionably Feral style Gen Z are expressing rebellion. Wellbeing under-indexes in this space, brands should speak to vices not ‘goodness’ here.

CASE STUDIES

MIU MIU

52

Couture house Miu Miu’s AW23 collection played with the idea of being unkempt, showing models with fly-away hair, tights pulled up over tops, or pantless. The contrast between the office appropriate cardigans and pencil skirts and these imperfections was reminiscent of the Frazzled English Woman trend.

4AM SKIN 4AM Skin has styled itself as the antithesis of Clean Girl skincare, promoting a lowmaintenance routine that will be effective even with an indulgent lifestyle of partying. The dark colour palette adds to the sleaze effect.


FASHIONABLY FERAL

OPPORTUNITIES

FOR BRANDS

FERALNESS IS BEING EMBRACED BY BRANDS IN TRADITIONALLY POLISHED ARENAS, A SUBVERSIVE TWIST TO EXPECTATIONS OF PERFECTION

BRAND TAKEAWAY

OVEREXPOSED

– Use unpolished images and low-resolution photography to reflect the messy ethos of Fashionably Feral. Tap into Gen Z nostalgia for nightlife photography of the 00s and 10s via brand imagery.

53

DIRTY LOOKS

Push against dated language of ‘clean’ looks by framing beauty as decoration and expression, rather than something to strip back or ‘reveal’. Use the language of creativity and addition, not perfection.

THE CLASH

– Accessories do not have to be complementary or coordinated. From pulled on overshirts to striped leg warmers, layers make the outfit ‘feral’. Push against societal expectations of restraint.


ABOUT

ABOUT

We’re experts in cultural, human, and artificial intelligence for supercharged insight and communities. Using in-house experts working alongside a full range of research specialisms, we deliver more powerful truths to drive strategy, innovation and execution.

OUR EXPERTISE

We take a holistic approach to insight by applying multiple lenses. From traditional qual through to semiotics, social intelligence, advanced analytics and beyond!

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ABOUT igniteAI is our sophisticated AI-powered consultancy allowing us to de-code and track culture at scale. It analyses vast amounts of data (text and imagery), using both established psychological frameworks and our own proprietary framework.

ABOUT

THE IGNITE COLLECTIVE

The Ignite Collective is an always-on global community of creative minds, cultural curators, industry experts and category pioneers.

Living a values-driven lifestyle to the extreme, they help us uncover what’s standing in the shadows and get to the future first.


ABOUT

THE AUTHORS With a 20-year career in market research, Kelly leads VERVE’s Cultural Intelligence arm, specialising in trends, semiotics, and social intelligence.

KELLY MCKNIGHT

Executive Director, Cultural Intelligence

Kelly is a strategic trends expert, focusing on optimising brands through innovative research to drive richer, strategic insight and foresight, and a respected thought leader. Most recently speaking at ESOMAR Congress 2023.

Kim is VERVE’s semiotics lead with a rich history in trend analysis and cultural insights.

KIM HOWARD

Commercial Semiotician

Her strategic work has helped clients like BBC, Estee Lauder and P&G harness the power of semiotics to inform business decisions. She has been published in the likes of Forbes, Women’s Health and The Grocer to name a few!

Jade is a skilled Research Associate at VERVE. Employing innovative methodologies, she collaborates with clients in beauty, healthcare, food, and finance.

JADE ISAACS

Research Associate

Her expertise includes semiotics and cultural anthropology. Contributing to various projects with a focus on cultural analysis and insight in branding.


FASHION FANTASIES THE EIGHT STYLE TRENDS THAT DEFINE GEN Z CULTURE

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