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In contrast to what one might assume from his theatrical, dreamlike fashion shows, the last thing on Van Beirendonck’s mind is entertainment. With his confrontational style, he endeavours to make people reflect, while staying one step ahead of fashion hypes. His labels, since 1983, have included Walter Van Beirendonck and Walter Worldwide, W&LT (1993– 1999) and æstheticterrorists by Walter (1999–2004). He was artistic director of Scapa Sports and the children’s label ZulupaPUWA belonging to JBC. He has launched a shoe line for W6YZ and, in 1998, he opened his flagship store annex gallery ‘Walter®’ in Antwerp, although this was recently forced to move to a different location and scale down, due to the current economic climate. Furthermore, Van Beirendonck is involved in designing costumes for the world of theatre, ballet, film and pop music, illustrating books, and as curator of various exhibitions in the MoMu.
Walter Van Beirendonck, Silent Secrets, S/S 2013
Belgian fashion designer Walter Van Beirendonck (1957) is regarded as a defining figure within Belgian fashion culture. The joint show organised during the London Designer Show in 1980 by the ‘Antwerp Six’, which comprised Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, Dries Van Noten and Marina Yee, firmly put Antwerp on the international fashion map. Van Beirendonck graduated from the city’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1983 returning two years later as a lecturer. In 2006, he became head of the Academy’s fashion department. Van Beirendonck is the most extravagant of the ‘Antwerp Six’, characterised by his highly visual, emotionally stimulating creations that stem from a unique fairy-tale world located inside his head. His collections feature striking graphic prints and a specific use of colour that is combined with absurd silhouettes, a touch of humour and a positive vibe. Yet the work of this ‘aesthetic terrorist’ is also interwoven with references to social issues such as AIDS, gender, terrorism, the environment, mass consumerism and the commercial side of the very fashion industry of which he too forms a part. These he counterbalances with themes like friendship and love. His interpretation is pure, almost naive, as he puts society’s problems in a dreamlike context. Van Beirendonck’s creative spirit feeds on all manner of ideas from ethnic tribes such as the Maya, Zulu and Papuan peoples to American superheroes and avatars, but he also draws inspiration from current affairs, films, pop music and politics. He uses his spectacular fashion shows in Paris and his new collections as a way of telling his latest story to the international fashion world. Notably, he chooses to present his clothing on ‘real people’ rather than models who embody the traditional ideals of the fashion industry.
www.waltervanbeirendonck.com
Walter Van Beirendonck, Wonder, S/S 2010
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