SPIRITS
FINE
TEQUILA
Mexico’s national spirit looks toward luxury.
T
he Margarita continues to rank as one of the country’s most popular cocktails, according to the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS), as well as a perennially popular resort option. Fortunately, today’s drinker has an unprecedented range of premium and superpremium tequila options from which to choose, whether sipped, shot or mixed into a drink. Casa Dragones is a super-premium, limited-production blend of blanco (aged two to six months) and extra añejo (aged five years) tequilas, designed for refined, smooth sipping. It’s made in small batches and bottled in individually engraved, signed and numbered crystal decanters. “For us, it’s one bottle at a time,” says co-founder and maestra tequilera Bertha Gonzalez Nieves, “and we never want to change that.” At about $300 a bottle, it’s not for shooting. Instead, it’s for sipping and is part of what could be called a Third Wave of Tequila in the U.S. (Jose Cuervo representing our introduction to the agave-based spirit in the 1960s and ’70s, Patron/Sauza/El Tesoro taking us further along the journey in the ’80s and ’90s, and today’s artisanal and luxury products expanding our horizons yet again). Most of the flexibility in tequila production involves the fine points of harvesting agave hearts, or piñons, how and how long the piñons are cooked, and specific distillation techniques. Blending differently aged batches, as Casa Dragones does, is a relatively new twist, one which Maestro Dobel
Single Estate tequila ($45) claims to have mastered first. A clear, colorless blend of various aged tequilas, Dobel is unexpectedly earthy on the palate, in part due to the use of Balkan oak. Don Julio, meanwhile, launched its Añejo 70 Claro ($70) in late 2011. Not a blend of aged tequilas, rather a clarified and filtered añejo, the result is a clear, colorless juice like a blanco, with the toasted oak and dusty sugar notes of an aged spirit. Perhaps the most interesting experimentation happening with tequila involves barrel choices. Most brands employ new oak or used bourbon barrels (the way most Scotch whisky does) during the aging process, but a few are exploring sherry casks, port barrels and more. DeLeon, a Guanajuato-based spirits brand, launched Leona on December 21 last year (the “end of the world” on the Mayan calendar). It was the first in a series of high-end, limited-edition “reserva” releases from the brand. Founder Brent Hocking says, “We were lucky to have purchased extra Sauternes barrels used in finishing our añejo expression. While going through the warehouse, we decided to experiment and see what would happen if we left some to sit.” Taking the tequila to the aging “edge” of the añejo classification (34 months), the resulting liquor is sweet, rich and complex and, quite simply, one of the most intriguing tequilas on the market. At $825, it had better be good of course, but Leona is no vanity project. It’s definitive proof that tequila has potential, as a fine spirit, far beyond body shots at spring break.
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COURTESY DELEON TEQUILA
ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON