CLIMBING
PARTNERSHIPS C limbing is an inherently partnerand community-based pursuit: you rely on your belayer for physical and sometimes emotional support or
encouragement when things get tough. From penguins to pee and everything in between, four different duos sound off on what they've learned from their closest belay buddies.
KAI LIGHTNER + CONNIE LIGHTNER Kai
Over eight years ago, I was climbing a route when I encountered a huge dyno move. I was terrified to attempt the jump but too stubborn to come down. My mom (belaying) screamed up, "Go for it. I got you." I heard her, but I wasn't convinced and still refused to jump. Then she yelled, "Think about it like this: I am motivated to keep you safe. Not just because of love, but money. If you fall and get hurt, I will have to pay the expensive doctor bill." I thought about it, looked down at her and laughed, then went for it. My mom has always been my primary belayer. There is no one who I trust more. When I'm frustrated on a route, she helps me calm down and relax. She also helps me figure out sequences when I’m projecting a route and offers advice on making moves more efficient. She can read my body language when I’m climbing and instinctively knows when I’m timid about making a move, getting tired, or about to fall. As I prepare to head off to college this fall, my biggest concern isn't being on my own or learning to handle life independently. Instead, I'm most concerned about finding a replacement belayer who can fill her "big shoes."
a [This Page] Kai and Connie in Yosemite. Lightner Collection [Facing Page, Top left] Tess and Alan topping out on the summit of Pirita Central. AAC member Alan Goldbetter [Facing Page, Bottom Left] Alan searching for the next objective. AAC member Tess Ferguson [Facing Page,Right] Tess starting the long journey home. AAC member Alan Goldbetter
26 | American Alpine Club
Connie
Being the primary belayer for a young competitive climber is a job that could drive any parent to drink. You have to be on your feet belaying for hours at a time, four to five days a week. The job is unpaid, and your "client" often has an attitude and gets mad at you for something that you said or did WHILE TRYING TO HELP HIM. Thankfully after persevering through the first six years, my climber/ belayer relationship with my son significantly improved, and I began to enjoy the job. It's rare for a teenage boy to want his mom to tag along during trips and events. However, if you're a mom belayer who doesn't mind bringing him and his friends on trips AND agree to belay full time, you suddenly become cool. I started belaying Kai at age 6, during the first week that he began rock climbing. If my kid was going to climb, I wanted to be responsible for his safety. I know him better than anyone. I can watch his body movements on a climb and know what he is thinking and how he plans to do a sequence. This allows me to prepare in advance to make adjustments in order to keep him safe. Moreover, after accumulating a large number of belay hours with the same climber, you learn their climbing style and have a huge database of past sequences that you have watched them climb. This comes in handy when they're projecting routes and need help figuring out the beta. Although I might complain a little (okay, a lot) about our early climb/belay years, if I had it to do over again, I would make the same decisions. Being intricately involved in my son's journey through the climbing world has undoubtedly forged a closer bond between us. That's my baby... all 6'3" of him.