Via | Sept+Oct 2023 by Via magazine | AAA Mountain West Group

SEPTEMBER+OCTOBER 2023

23 hidden gems in Sonoma Smart smoke alarms 101 A weekend in Sitka, Alaska

Visiting Haunted

Gold Country Tour along the storied Highway 49 to Nevada City and Grass Valley

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Editorial

EDITOR Whitney Phaneuf MANAGING EDITOR Katie Henry CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Mandy Ferreira

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being on the lookout. Your safety, and that of our drivers, is very important.

Change of address Allow four weeks’ advance notice. Contact AAA at (800) 922-8228. Manuscripts and photos Query ﬁrst; Via assumes no responsibility for return of unsolicited material. Reprints from Via Contents copyrighted 2023 AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. No part of Via may be reprinted without written permission. Contact Via Editorial Address all mail to Via, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA 94623, or viamail@via magazine.com. Your input may be edited and published in print or online. Contact Via Advertising Address all mail to Via Advertising, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA 94623. Fax (510) 899-0525.

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CONTENTS

September+October 2023 / Vol. 145 / No. 4

Sitka is one of Alaska’s more temperate and beautiful cities. Page 32.

FE AT U R E S

D E PA R T M E N T S

36 8 Haunted Spots

6 To Our Members

in California’s Gold Country

Take a drive up Highway 49 to see all the haunts in Grass Valley and Nevada City. by w h i t n e y p h a n e u f

44 Hidden Sonoma

County Gems to Discover in Fall

Not all the coolest diversions in Sonoma County are well known.

COURTESY VISIT SITKA

by m at t v i l l a n o

At AAA, we take pride in making our communities safer.

8 Smart Life

Best cruises for the holidays; why you need a smart smoke alarm; how to safely pass a tow truck.

18 On the Road

Members’ favorite comfort food restaurants; Winchester Mystery House turns 100; road trip on Nevada’s Extraterrestrial Highway; a weekend in Sitka, Alaska.

Connect with us AAA.com/facebook AAA.com/instagram AAA.com/pinterest AAA.com/youtube

ON THE COVER View of Broad Street from the balcony of the allegedly haunted National Exchange Hotel in Nevada City, Calif. Page 36. Cover photograph by Kat Alves A A A | VIA

TO OUR MEMBERS

A hallmark moment worth discussing ↘ At AAA, we take pride in making our communities safer. As we transition from summer to fall, it’s a good time to think about how the changing of the seasons affects driving. Days are shorter, the weather is cooler and wetter, and children are back in school—all of which pose their own driving challenges. This is when a program like the AAA School Safety Patrol really shines. The AAA School Safety Patrol program empowers more than 100,000 student leaders across more than 2,000 schools to teach other students about traffic safety and keep their classmates safe along walking routes, bus loading zones, and carpool areas. In addition to making school zones safer, it develops leadership skills in kids and allows them to give back to their communities. I’d like to say a big thankyou to the thousands of AAA School Safety Patrol participants. 6

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TIM CONDON, PRESIDENT & CEO

AAA in the community Learn more about how AAA helps in local communities at AAA.com/community.

JAMES BUETI

School Safety patrollers at Martin Elementary School in South San Francisco.

In this issue of Via, there’s one story I’d like to bring to your attention about a critical issue for all of us at AAA. This article explains why it is so important for drivers to slow down and move over on our highways and roads when approaching first responders and emergency vehicles, including tow truck drivers. For insights into the nature of this work and how we drivers can better protect these vital professionals, we interviewed our own tow truck drivers about their personal experiences and tips to keep them safe. As you know, AAA is in the business of helping millions of stranded motorists across the country 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. That’s why we support state-level Move Over laws, which require drivers to reduce speed and switch lanes to protect workers. I would ask each of you to think about the safety of all first responders when you see flashing lights on the side of the road. Your attention could make all the difference. Please help us keep our tow truck drivers and all first responders safe at the roadside! I hope you enjoy this issue of Via, and thanks for being a valued AAA Member. ba.

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Smart Life

The Queen Mary 2, a Cunard vessel, with New York City in the background.

TRAVEL

4 best cruises for the holidays ↘ Have a memorable holiday season at sea on these cruise lines. Pack the matching pajamas on Princess When packing for a weeklong holiday cruise along, say, the Mexican Riviera with Princess, you might want to remember bathing suits, dinner wear, and, most important of all, your family’s best set of matching pajamas. That’s the dress code for Christmas Day breakfast aboard the Discovery Princess, the company’s 3,660-passenger ship. But it’s not just on that ship or that itinerary. Any holiday cruise with Princess—be it along the coast of Australia or through the Caribbean—includes plenty of activities to keep it festive. There will be sing-alongs with the ship’s officers, choir performances, as well as a special Christmas tree–lighting ceremony with live music. You and the kids can get creative at the gingerbread house–making competition and test your festive knowledge in a holiday trivia match. (Hint: Rudolph’s dentist friend was Hermey!) Everyone is welcome to a guest-led Hanukkah celebration, and on the night before Christmas, volunteers lead a special service. Coolest of all, Discovery Princess’s airy Piazza—with glass elevators and spiral staircases—gets decked out as a winter wonderland complete with fake snow falling from above. Of course, Santa will bring toys for all the children on board.

COURTESY CUNARD

A Dr. Seuss Christmas with Carnival No matter the ship, no matter the route, a Christmas at sea with Carnival means all the trimmings of the holiday, and years past have included one unique twist: The Grinch himself coming on board to add a little “Grinchmas” flair to the festivities. Holiday cruises, which begin around Thanksgiving and continue through December, have featured the Dr. Seuss party pooper who’s found his heart for the holiday and is A A A | VIA

SMART LIFE

Celebrate on Celebrity’s newest ship Celebrity’s holiday festivities are particularly huge this year with the launch of its newest ship, the Celebrity Ascent, the fourth ship of its kind for the line. Join the maiden voyage for a four-night holiday romp through the Caribbean. The company goes all out between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Eve with pop-up dance performances, singing, and tree-decorating celebrations you can do with the family. A Michelin-starred chef creates traditional holiday fare—so try not to eat the various “winter villages” scattered about the ship made entirely of gingerbread. A scoop or three of festive gelato—think peppermint, eggnog, and gingerbread—is always a hit. For the adults, holiday cocktails await. Start with the candy cane and gingerbread martinis at the Martini Bar

A holiday-themed performance on a Celebrity cruise.

Afternoon tea on Queen Mary, a Cunard vessel.

or go with classic eggnog at the Ocean View Cafe. On the ship’s first seven-night cruise you’ll leave Fort Lauderdale for Nassau, Bahamas, where you’ll spend Christmas Day. That nigwht, head to the ship’s rooftop for an open-air holiday movie before sailing on to Cozumel and Grand Cayman, before returning to Florida.

A happy Christmas to all on Cunard It’s hard to forget a Christmas at sea, but what’s even more memorable than that? A very British Christmas at sea, of course. Cunard, the British cruise line, offers holiday itineraries from mid-December to early January on its fleet of “queens,” such as the Queen Mary and the Queen Elizabeth, each dripping with jolly-good merriment. Take a fivenight trip aboard the Queen Victoria and you’ll stop at some of Europe’s most colorful Christmas markets in Belgium, England, the Netherlands, and France. Stepping aboard in Southampton you’ll find Christmas vocalists and festive brass musicians, while a small gift and a miniature potted Christmas tree await in your room. Around the ship you’ll spot tributes to the Wind in the Willows and the Nutcracker, too. There are movies, plays, games, and singing. Head to the lobby for a little snow. Things get very British come Christmas dinner, when the chef might offer up cheddar leek tart, poached eggs, and Dorset lamb. And what would a British holiday be without pulling on some famous exploding, prize-filled “crackers” that are a tradition on every holiday cruise. —tim neville

AAA Member perks Book your cruise with AAA Travel and enjoy exclusive perks and spending credits.

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TOP: COURTESY CUNARD; BOTTOM: COURTESY CELEBRITY CRUISES

now out to spread some cheer. The grump has hosted a live holiday show and a breakfast, and even starred in his own movie in the ship’s Seaside Theater. For the more traditionalist in your crew, Carnival holiday cruises will offer carolers, Christian and Jewish services, and no shortage of decorations from bow to stern, including a light snow falling inside the ship. The company’s theater troupe puts on a performance of “Santa Claus Is Comin’ to Town” that invites young sailors to participate. Forget to ask Santa for your own mask and snorkel? There’s a letter box on board for mailing off those lastminute requests. This year two more ships will offer Caribbean holiday itineraries, one out of New York City and another out of Galveston, Texas.

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SMART LIFE

Working smoke and carbon monoxide alarms should be installed near every sleeping space in your home.

Why you need a smart smoke alarm ↘ These devices watch over your home when you’re away. It’s happened to everyone at least once. Whether it’s from failed cooking attempts in the kitchen or a low battery, your smoke detector begins to chirp every 30 to 60 seconds, driving you—and your pets—crazy. Once you determine there’s no fire danger, likely the first thing you do is search online for information on how to turn the beeping off. You’ll find that one of the main reasons smoke detectors chirp is a low battery. Beyond needing to have the batteries replaced, smoke or carbon monoxide detectors can malfunction for a variety of reasons. There’s no doubt that a chirping smoke detector is annoying, but worse is a nonfunctioning one. Device age, poor placement, tampering with the devices, and exposure to elements such as dust, steam, paint, or water are reasons for concern. Yet statistics show that missing or dead batteries are the chief reasons 12

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smoke detector alarms don’t sound in an emergency. Here’s the thing: While that beeping may be a nuisance, smoke detectors save lives. The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) states there are, on average, 358,500 home fires in the United States every year— that’s one every 87 seconds—and those fires cause approximately 3,000 deaths a year. One of every three home fire deaths is caused by a smoke detector that didn’t work properly or had no batteries installed. On an optimistic note, NFPA reports that the death rate per 1,000 home fires was 55 percent lower in homes with working smoke alarms than in homes with no alarms or nonfunctioning alarms.

Get up to code Each state determines its residential building codes, and all but two states (Missouri and Texas have no statewide fire or building codes and codes are adopted at the local level) require smoke detectors in all residential dwellings; many also require carbon monoxide detectors. Most homes have detectors installed, and in newer homes and apartment buildings detectors are hardwired with a battery backup. Smoke detectors should be placed on every level of the home and in or near each sleeping area.

ARTERRA PICTURE LIBRARY / ALAMY

HOME

Smoke and carbon monoxide detector’s batteries should be routinely replaced.

Smoke detectors serve as our nose when we’re sleeping, so if one is not working, it’s not going to wake us up.

Replace old devices Like washing machines and refrigerators, smoke and carbon monoxide detectors don’t last forever. Experts recommend you replace them every seven to 10 years. Check the manufacture or expiration date on the back of the smoke alarm, and if it’s nearing 10 years, replace it. If you’ve been in your home for a while and are unsure of its manufacture date, it’s most likely time for a new detector.

TOP: ANDREY_POPOV / SHUTTERSTOCK; BOTTOM: HERO IMAGES INC. / ALAMY

Get protection while you’re away Functioning smoke detectors protect us when we’re home, but what happens if a fire occurs when we’re away from home and don’t even know we should call 911? According to Lindsay Gutierrez, director of product management for AAA Smart Home Security, smart smoke and carbon monoxide detectors help protect us when we’re not home. Smart detectors are connected to your home’s security system and while they don’t replace builders’ smoke detectors, they offer additional assurance. “Builder smoke detectors are required in all homes, but you have to be home to know if your house is on fire. With a smart system, you don’t have to be home because a smart smoke or carbon monoxide detector is connected to a security and life safety system that sends an alert to a central monitoring station,” says Gutierrez. Today’s smart home systems connect everyday household devices through wireless technology, a control panel,

Smart smoke and carbon monoxide alarms can be easy to install yourself.

and apps connected to your phone. AAA Smart Home Security recommends adding protection for your home with smart smoke and carbon monoxide detectors that function beyond the abilities of standard builder models. Using built-in PowerG technology, smoke and carbon monoxide detectors purchased from AAA Smart Home Services offer multiple benefits. A primary benefit is the encryption and cybersecurity built into the system. Additionally, the system uses two-way communication, an important feature for smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. If a device detects smoke or gas, an alarm sounds, and the detector sends a signal to the control panel, which, in turn, signals all the detectors on the system to sound an alarm—an important safety feature that allows all family members to escape danger. Also—especially important if you’re not home—the central monitoring station alerts the fire department to send assistance.

Don’t forget to test Gutierrez says that smart smoke and carbon monoxide detectors should be tested once a month, the same standard as builder detectors. You’ll receive an alert that you tested the device and that it’s working. Another benefit for smart smoke detectors is that if the battery dies, you’ll receive notification that the device is no longer communicating—an important reminder to keep you and your family safe. — s a l ly b e n fo r d

AAA Member savings AAA Members save up to $60 per year on AAA Smart Home Security Monitoring. Learn more at AAA.com/smarthome.

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AUTO

How to safely pass a stopped tow truck ↘ Remember these four words: slow down, move over. As an ex-Marine, Patrick O’Malley recognizes dangerous situations when he sees them. And he sees them almost daily in his current line of work. O’Malley, 39, is a tow truck operator for AAA, based in the Sacramento, California, region. “This is a busy area with a lot of traffic traveling very fast,” says O’Malley. “When we pull over to help someone, there’s a good chance we’re putting our own lives on the line.” Statistics bear that out across the United States. Every year in this country, an average of 24 emergency responders, including tow providers, are struck and killed while working roadside, according to data from the AAA Foundation for Traffic Safety. That’s a 14

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death nearly every other week. Since 2007, AAA has worked with other traffic-safety advocates to raise public awareness of these hazards while pushing for legislation aimed at reducing them. Those efforts have been instrumental in passing “Move Over” laws in all 50 states. While the fine print in the laws differ by state, the basic requirements are consistent: When approaching emergency medical crews, tow truck operators, police officers, or firefighters working on the side of the road, motorists should change lanes and slow down. In many states, Move Over laws cover encounters with other vehicles as well, including utility and sanitation fleets. Despite the prevalence of these laws—and the common sense that underpins them—many motorists remain unaware of them. A survey by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration found that 71 percent of Americans had no idea that drivers are required to switch lanes and reduce their speed to protect roadside workers. Those survey results square with O’Malley’s experience. “A lot of motorists do not seem to be paying close attention,” he says. Working as a tow truck operator, O’Malley notes, has made him more conscientious when

JAMES BUETI

SMART LIFE

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SMART LIFE he’s behind the wheel of his own car. Many of his colleagues had the same experience, so AAA asked O’Malley and other tow truck drivers to share tips to keep roadside workers safe.

Aim high Everything you need to know about driving you didn’t learn in kindergarten. But you probably covered it in driver’s education, including the importance of “aiming high.” That refers to focusing your attention on the entire road, not just what’s immediately in front you. “If you aim high, you’re looking farther ahead, so you’re going to see us sooner,” says Darrius Stennis, a AAA tow truck driver in Phoenix, Arizona. “It might sound obvious, but it really helps us out a lot.”

cult,” Martinez says. “Give us a minute. We’re working as quickly as we can.” The same applies when a tow truck has its blinker on as it is attempting to move into the flow of traffic. They aren’t sports cars. “It can take us a little longer to get going. We just might need a little extra time,” Martinez adds.

Avoid distractions

Be compassionate

Cell phones. Radios. Kids in the back seat. “In this world today, we have so many things fighting for our attention,” O’Malley says. “I get it. It’s a challenge. At the same time, it’s also someone’s life and our ability to do our job.” Stay focused on the road, he says. Everything else can wait.

Driving can be frustrating and impersonal. When you’re isolated in your own car, O’Malley points out, it can be easy to forget that other motorists are people, too, as are the responders assisting them. “That person with the flat tire could be you someday,” O’Malley says. “Keep in mind that we’re all in this together, and that some of us are putting ourselves at risk to try to help others.”

When a tow truck is blocking a lane or pulling into traffic, it’s tempting to speed up to get past the obstruction. Take a deep breath, please, says Pearl Martinez, a tow truck driver in the Tahoe, California, area. “A lot of times, the steering wheel in the car might be locked, or [there’s] some other situation that is making our job more diffi-

Move toward space Not all breakdowns happen on the shoulder. Some occur in the center of the roadway, with traffic whizzing by on either side. In Sacramento, where O’Malley works, some highways have seven or eight lanes, leaving motorists to make a decision: Which side to favor? Situations vary, O’Malley agrees, but in every instance, tow truck drivers try to position their trucks and orange cones in a way that shunts traffic in the safest direction possible. Usually, that’s the side with the most room. “It really depends on where the breakdown is,” he says. “If it’s closer to the left side, move to the right. If it’s closer to the right side, move to the left. You’re looking for the side with the greater amount of space and maneuverability.” — j o s h s e n s

AAA and safe driving Learn more about how AAA supports Slow Down, Move Over laws and safer driving.

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TOP: TESSY MORELLI / STOCKSY; BOTTOM: JAMES BUETI

Exercise patience

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On the Road

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MEMBERS’ FAVORITE

Comfort food restaurants ↘ These cozy spots will fill your belly with tasty tacos, creamy ice cream, hearty breakfasts, and so much more.

“Pretty Bird in Salt Lake City has the best chicken sandwich around. I live in Montana, but I go there every time I am in SLC. Make sure to order your chicken sandwich with a Mexican street corn side.” — k a r o l f e t h e r sto n

“I live in Santa Cruz, California, and my favorite spot when I want comfort food is Taqueria Vallarta, the original location on Soquel Avenue next to Shopper’s Corner market (a worthy destination in itself). The carnitas are fantastic, as is the chile verde and al pastor—they just do pork really well! I switch it up between the super nachos, super quesadilla, hard shell tacos, and super burrito. When I do get the burrito, I order it with cabbage instead of rice. It is so good!” — l au r a f r i e n d “Juan’s Flaming Fajitas in Henderson, Nevada, is an amazing Mexican restaurant. Everything is fresh, the staff is great, and the atmosphere is always upbeat. My favorite dish is the fajita quesadilla with either beef or chicken with mild peppers, onion, and cheese with rice and beans on the side. Three types of house-made dips are served upon being seated. My favorite is the warm bean dip with tortilla chips made on the spot.” — t e r r i w i lc o x

BONJWING LEE

“The best milkshakes in the world are served at Scooper’s in Sparks, Nevada. They use only the best and freshest ingredients. My favorite is chocolate with a whole banana blended in. The chunks get stuck in my straw and have to be sucked out on the other end. I am a native of Sparks and I have been going to Scooper’s since high school, when we would escape the classroom and head there for lunch. It was a treat then, and very much a treat now.” — m a r i a m u n o z “Cedric’s in Idaho Falls has the best comfort food. They give a café vibe with a quick, affordable menu, but the portions are large, and a lot of it is made in-house. The house-made hot chocolate is to die for! The cheese curd basket is my favorite for quick bites, and my husband loves their full breakfast with eggs, hash browns, bacon, and toast. Everyone who works there is so friendly! You A A A | VIA

ON THE ROAD

A A A MEMBER SAVING S Save 10% on food and non-alcoholic beverages at Landry’s restaurants, including Claim Jumper, Joe’s Crab Shack, and Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. Learn more at AAA.com/landrysinc.

Hamburgers from Yak’s Cafe in Dunsmuir, Calif.

“Yak’s Cafe on I-5 in Dunsmuir, California, is simply well put together and fresh, with a great combination of flavors. Order any burger and the garlic parmesan fries. The food is an experience, not just filling your empty void. This restaurant is a MUST STOP on I-5 for anyone going north or south.” — ly l e n e e s e

“There are so many great places for comfort food in San Francisco. For Mexican food, go to La Taqueria. For the best Puerto Rican food, try Parada 22. Dianda’s has the best Italian pastries, and Mitchell’s Ice Cream makes the best handmade scoops. Each stop offers a mouthwatering explosion of delicious treats for your palate.” — a l b e rt m a rt i n e z

“The Original Breakfast House in Phoenix not only has great food, but a fun atmosphere with live music while you wait in the mornings on the weekend. The waitstaff seems to enjoy their job because each person has a smile. Food is prepared quickly and is so tasty. We drive 30+ miles to go to this restaurant on the weekends and it is way worth it—even when gas was $6/gallon! We always order the chicken fried chicken and the deep fried French toast with a side of great drip coffee. You will find about seven different dishes that you want, but one is all you need because it’s a healthy serving! It’s a cash-only place, so make sure you stop by the bank on the way there.” — k at i e c o c h r a n

Scoops of chocolate caramel crackle and Oreo cookie from Mitchell’s Ice Cream in San Francisco.

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“Gourmet Girls Gluten Free Bakery and Bistro in Tucson, Arizona, is not only 100% gluten free but is incredibly delicious. They have extensive breakfast and lunch menus and a bakery to die for. We have been eating here about once a week for years and we never get bored: quesadillas, burgers (they change the special every

TOP: JC CORP PHOTOGRAPHY; BOTTOM: STEPHANIE DEWEY

truly feel like family. They even refer to many people by their first name: There’s a healthy amount of ‘regulars’ that keep coming back, so they must be doing something right!” — j ac k i e j o h n s o n

month), sandwiches, breakfast burritos, chicken fried steak, pancakes, French toast, and Monte Cristo sandwiches. The staff is excellent and very helpful if you have any kind of food allergy. Love this place.” — ta n i a j . m a lv e n

TOP: COURTESY GROTTO CAFE; BOTTOM: COURTESY ALDO’S HARBOR RESTAURANT

“For good portions at reasonable prices head to Holder’s Country Inn in Los Altos, California. The chicken fried steak is good, and so are all the breakfast items. They have so many options beyond breakfast, but I can’t get past the all-day breakfast menu.” — b i l l h o u g h “For the best mole you’ve ever had, visit Ofrenda Mexican in Cave Creek, Arizona. Their excellent menu also includes amazing carnitas tacos and seafood enchiladas. You won’t be disappointed.” — d as h e r s h o rt “A hidden gem, and locally operated, Cocina Michoacana Mexican Restaurant in Groveland, California, has friendly staff and the most delicious Mexican food ever! My favorite dish is the chicken or cheese enchilada with the verde sauce. The beans are amazing, as well as the sauce! This is such a fun spot to stop and grab the best Mexican food just 30 minutes from the entrance to Yosemite. I literally crave this food!” — a m y c o n n o l ly “I never order off the menu at Aldo’s in Santa Cruz, California. Usually I just ask the owner to bring out what he likes for the day. The last time, I had an open face crab sandwich that was just incredible. The restaurant sits right on the water at the harbor, and whether you sit inside or outside, it has character. Take a seat, it’s home.” —craig rogers

Crab sandwich at Aldo’s Harbor Restaurant in Santa Cruz, Calif.

French toast from Grotto Cafe in Cave Creek, Ariz.

“The Grotto Cafe in Cave Creek, Arizona, has a stunning patio and views, plus quaint and lively indoor seating. The owner and staff are friendly and laid-back, and the food is great. We love to order the Grotto French toast, Grotto breakfast bowl, and the chicken salad on cranberry walnut bread. Even better, the restaurant gives back to our community and brings in local music. We get the best service EVERY time.” — s a n d r a g i l l i ga n “Red Apple Café in Aptos, California, is so good, fresh, and filling. We usually need to go for a long walk afterwards to walk off all the delicious food! A must-order is the eggs Benedict, with roasted potatoes and sourdough bread—make sure to spread thick the butter and jam. My husband always gets the chicken fried steak, with the same sides. This is a very quaint, off-the-beaten-path place. And we absolutely love it! They always have daily specials. And we’ve never had a bad experience.” — d e b by o ls e n

“My favorite restaurant for comfort food is SanJalisco in San Francisco. This is a family-owned and run restaurant A A A | VIA

ON THE ROAD

Zachary’s Chicago Pizza spinach and mushroom deep dish pizza in Oakland, Calif.

“Joe Bandido’s in Springville, Utah, has a large selection of California-style Mexican food. The waiters are super-

Joe Bandito’s chicken tostada in Springville, Utah.

efficient and friendly, and the chips and salsa are SO good! My husband and I always share the chicken tostada. We go most Sunday afternoons, and we frequently see the same patrons there.” — k a r i n w e i g h t “For the best pizza in the Bay Area, head to Zachary’s Chicago Pizza, the original shop in Rockridge, California, but with locations all around the region. The pizza served is deep dish, and they all have excellent flavor in classic Chicago style. I always order the mushroom and spinach, with a salad on the side.” — g e r i c r eq u e “For comfort food, I always go to Velvet Grill and Creamery in the historic old town of Galt, California. It has a great hometown menu, friendly team members, and is locally owned and operated. When you’re there, be sure to also check out Spaans Cookie Factory.” — b e r n i c e l e e “Jeff’s Freezette in Colusa, California, is a classic burger joint that has been around since the 1950s. A hot dog with extra onions or a double cheeseburger and an order of fries with a chocolate shake or frostie can’t be beat on a hot summer day—or fall, winter, or spring day for that matter!” —brian brown

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? NE X T QUESTION Where are your favorite hot springs, and why? Email us at otr@via magazine.com. You may be quoted in a future issue.

TOP: MELISSA BARNES; BOTTOM: NICOLE MORGENTHAU

serving authentic Mexican food for well over 35 years. Their attention to detail with each dish reminds me of the dishes that I ate as a child. The handmade tortillas made fresh leave you completely satisfied. On the weekend, they serve up their famous birria (made out of goat meat) that has been slow cooked overnight with just the right amount of spice—not too spicy but just right. The owner always tries to make her rounds when she’sshes not cooking to make sure everyone is happy and walking away with a full tummy.” — a d a o rt ega

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HAPPY BIRTHDAY

Celebrating 100 years of the Winchester Mystery House ↘ After a century of fascinating guests, this one-of-a-kind historic home looks to the future.

On June 30, 1923, cars rumbled down a dusty road through the apricot orchards that filled the Santa Clara Valley, five miles west of downtown San Jose, California They were headed to the much-anticipated grand opening of Winchester Park—today known as the Winchester Mystery House—which had more than 10,000 visitors that first weekend. While some were drawn to the grand dance pavilion, live music, and vaudeville performances, most wanted to be among the first to get close to a neverbefore-seen attraction: the sprawling 160-room mansion built by orchardist, architect, and philanthropist Sarah Winchester. One hundred years later, the

Winchester Mystery House, as we now know it, still draws crowds of tourists from around the world who come to experience this legendary— and possibly haunted—house for themselves. “Some are looking for history, some are looking for architecture, some are looking for ghosts,” says staff historian Janan Boehme. “And some are looking for a combination of all of those things. I think we have something for everyone.” A new public exhibit on display at the Mercantile, the mansion’s gift shop, shares the story of this attraction that has drawn well over 13 million visitors in the last hundred years, and inspired pop culture including Disney’s Haunted Mansion ride, ghost-hunting televi-

ULADZIK KRYHIN / SHUTTERSTOCK

Winchester Mystery House in San Jose, Calif.

sion shows, and the 2018 supernatural thriller Winchester, starring Oscar winner Helen Mirren.

TOP: DREAMART123 / SHUTTERSTOCK; BOTTOM: COURTESY WINCHESTER MYSTERY HOUSE

How the Winchester House got its start In 1886, the recently widowed Sarah Winchester, heir to the Winchester Repeating Arms rifle manufacturing fortune, was seeking a change from her life in New Haven, Connecticut, when she came across a farmhouse on a large plot of land near San Jose. “Sarah’s story was the California dream,” says Michelle Bevis, a Winchester Mystery House board member . “She moved here for a new start and built her life here.” Sarah had fond memories of a visit to San Francisco with her husband, William, a few years before; she had family living nearby, and she thought the temperate climate of the Santa Clara Valley would be good for her worsening rheumatoid arthritis. Winchester bought the house, plus 45 acres of land she could plant with fruit

One of the cozy nooks inside Winchester Mystery House.

orchards, for $12,570. Over the next 36 years, Winchester transformed the eight-room farmhouse into a 24,000-square-foot, 160room mansion. Winchester was a private person and didn’t share publicly why she had undertaken this enormous project, so stories started to circulate among her neighbors and in local media at the time. One said that she was grieving

Sarah Winchester riding in one of her carriages.

the loss of her husband and infant child, so she met with a psychic who told her to move west and build a house nonstop to calm the spirits haunting her—ghosts of people killed by the Winchester rifle. Adding to this were odd architectural elements that were said to have been built to confuse the spirits, including doors opening to walls, and staircases going directly into the ceiling. The story of the house came very close to ending when Sarah Winchester passed away in September 1922. At the time of her death, the structure was in poor condition, having suffered extensive damage in the 1906 earthquake. Large sections were boarded up and had never been repaired. The home was appraised as being nearly worthless. But one buyer was interested. John Brown was a roller coaster designer from Pennsylvania who had traveled around the country building a ride he called the Backety Back. He and his wife, Mayme, fell in love with the Winchester property and decided they wanted to build an amusement park there. After investors for his grand plan failed to follow through, they realized the house itself was a curiosity, so they opened it up to visiA A A | VIA

ON THE ROAD been added, offering boundless entertainment opportunities.

What will the next 100 years bring?

tors, and Winchester Park was born. Over the next few decades, the Browns lived in the house and kept the attraction open, even through the Great Depression. After John and Mayme passed away in the 1950s, their two daughters, Edna and Mildred, took over. They introduced a wax museum exhibit and placed billboards up and down California and Nevada highways to attract road-trippers. In 1973, a new general manager, Keith Kittle, who had worked at both Disneyland and San Jose’s Frontier Village, brought professional Operations and Guest Management experience to the house. He worked to get it recognized as a California Registered Historic Landmark and have it added to the National Register of Historic Places. Over the following decades, the house introduced new tour options and holiday events such as a Halloween haunted house and Victorian holiday experience. In 2022, 26

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the house launched the newest tour, Walk with Spirits, which focuses on spiritualism as it was practiced during Sarah’s Winchester’s lifetime. More recently, hands-on activities such as a shooting gallery, an arcade, and an axe-throwing contest have

Decorations for the Victorian holiday experience.

— c as s i e k i f e r

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Wichester Mystery House offers seasonal after-dark tours.

“I think our story will continue to resonate and we look forward to continuing to find new ways to tell it,” says Walter Magnuson, executive director of the house. They are exploring new experiences for guests, including guided paranormal investigations and—someday—overnight visits. The house is also expanding the brand beyond the guest experience with merchandise, including a coveted apparel line (at launch, the handbag sold out within 20 minutes) and seasonal items such as pumpkin-carving kits. As Silicon Valley continues to grow and change, unique places like this become even more important. “With each passing year, especially here on the West Coast, so many historic homes and places are no more,” said Magnuson. “There are fewer opportunities to set foot in a place that has an incredible story and history.”

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SWEET STOPS

Nevada’s extraterrestrial highway

For many, a getaway to Las Vegas involves glitzy casinos, mesmerizing Cirque du Soleil shows, and epic prime rib buffets. Few leave the lights and splendor of the Strip, even for a drive on a stretch of twolane highway that may or may not lead to otherworldly life forms. For the alien-curious, driving 90 minutes north from Las Vegas, mostly on Interstate 93, leads to the start of the 98-mile Extraterrestrial Highway. This

Make the most of your trip on the Extraterrestrial Highway. 28

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↘ The truth is out there, possibly on this quiet stretch of State Route 375.

The Alien Research Center in Hiko, Nev.

until your next stop in Rachel (population 70). The speed limit is 70 mph on this lightly trafficked stretch, so you’ll be at your next stop in no time.

Rachel to Warm Springs

desolate stretch of State Route 375 was so named in 1996, a nod to its proximity to Area 51, the top-secret, ultraclassified Air Force installation associated with aliens, UFOs, and plenty of conspiracy theories.

TOP: BRIANPIRWIN / SHUTTERSTOCK; BOTTOM: COURTESY TRAVEL NEVADA

Crystal Springs to Rachel The Extraterrestrial Highway begins at a rest area in Crystal Springs, Nevada, but you’d be wise to first take a quick detour to E.T. Fresh Jerky, where State Route 318 bisects U.S. Route 93. It’s less than one mile east, and it’s worth a stop for beef jerky in more than a dozen flavors, including hickory, lemon pepper, and honey teriyaki. The proprietors boast that it’s “out of this world delicious.” You’ll also find creative types such as ahi tuna and wild boar jerky. Inside, there’s much more than meat products. Alien-themed souvenirs and delights fill the roadside store—even an alien fortune-teller machine. Outside, you can snap photos of the mural of four cowboy aliens. Once back in the car, motor two minutes west on State Route 318 to the infamous sticker-covered extraterrestrial highway sign that officially marks the start of this alien-

inspired drive. There’s plenty of room to pull over for a few quick photos. Bear left for State Route 375. Now, it’s less than a mile to the Alien Research Center, which is more kitschy gift shop than academic research facility. Here you’ll find—you guessed it—alien-themed T-shirts, socks, hats, and hoodies and even Alien Tequila. From here, settle in for a fairly desolate, but quite peaceful, drive across the desert landscape. It’s another 38 miles

In Rachel, known as the UFO Capital of the World, fuel up at Alien Cowpoke Gasoline & General Store, the only gas station on the Extraterrestrial Highway. You’ll also find cold drinks, ice cream bars, and more alien-themed trinkets. From here, it’s less than half a mile north to Little A’Le’Inn, which proudly declares that earthlings are welcome. It’s a great place to stop for lunch thanks to a menu with favorites such as the Alien Burger, which is topped with a super-secret Alien Sauce. The Little A’Le’Inn is also the only place to stay on the Extraterrestrial Highway. There are five units—essentially mobile homes, each with two or three bedrooms—plus outdoor space for tent and RV camping. There’s not a lot to do aside from soaking in the alien mystique, but dark-sky stargazing and geocaching are favorite activi-

Little A’Le’Inn.

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ties. Keep your eyes to the skies for stars, meteor showers, and the potential of spotting alien life. You’re just a stone’s throw from Area 51, but given its top-secret nature, it’s not open to the public. When you’re ready to hit the road, continue another 50 miles north on State Route 375, which dead-ends at Interstate 6 in Warm Springs, an abandoned mining town.

International Car Forest of the Last Church.

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Beyond Warm Springs Your road trip doesn’t need to end in Warm Springs. Turn left onto U.S. Route 6 and continue southwest for 50 miles until you reach Tonopah (population 2,500). This small town has a rich gold- and silver-mining history that dates to the 1900s. At Tonopah Historic Mining Park, exhibits and restored mining equip-

ment bring to life the former mining operations. A self-guided walking tour features 18 stops, including a historic mine tunnel and a railroad trestle. Tonopah is also home to the Central Nevada Museum and the Clown Motel, a 31-room motel that awes (or alarms) with more than 4,000 clown figurines. From here, drive less than 30 miles south on U.S. Route 95 to Goldfield for the International Car Forest of the Last Church. This quirky art installation is essentially a junkyard of several dozen spray-painted cars and buses that rivals the world-famous Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo, Texas. On the return to Las Vegas, make one more stop. It requires a slight detour, but it’s worth the extra fivemile drive. It’s the Goldwell Open Air Museum, which has a ghostlike depiction of Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper, as well as unusual works such as Lady Desert, a 25-foot tall statue made of cinder blocks painted pink and yellow, giving the statue a uniquely pixelated appearance. — e r i n g i f fo r d

COURTESY TRAVEL NEVADA (2)

Central Nevada Museum.

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ON THE ROAD

WEEKENDER

Sitka, Alaska

↘ For wildlife and ocean vistas, historical architecture and totem poles, head to this multicultural crossroads in Southeast Alaska.

Southeast Alaska has much to offer travelers in summer, but in the quieter fall months slow down and appreciate the oceanside landscape in the vast Tongass National Forest just as the locals do. To enjoy Sitka, one of Alaska’s more temperate and beautiful cities, you’ll need to fly or take a boat—there’s no way to reach Baranof Island, its site, by car. In this walkable and friendly city, you’ll find heritage unlike any other in Alaska, endless outdoor recreation, and, of course, the delicious catch of the day. 32

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Things to do Downtown Sitka can be easily covered on foot, with much of the shopping and dining located on or near Lincoln Street. Consider booking one of the walking or driving tours of the area, each with a specialized focus such as heritage, wildlife, or outdoor adventure. ●

Ever wanted to see a bald eagle or a bear safely but up close? The Fortress of the Bear and Alaska Raptor Center ●

are a few miles outside of town, easily accessed with a tour, rental car, or e-bike. Every day from May through September (and weekends only in October), you can watch lumbering brown bears from a viewing platform or through tall windows. Open yearround, the raptor center rehabilitates birds of all kinds and has 24 “ambassador” birds who aren’t able to be returned to the wild—think golden and bald eagles, hawks, and owls—in residence. Visitors can see their natural habitats, learn about avian life from

COURTESY TRAVEL ALASKA

Aerial view of Sitka, Alaska in the morning.

guides, and even watch eagles regaining flight skills from a specially designed corridor that conceals people from the raptors. festivities take place each year for a week in October, celebrating Alaska’s deed transfer from Russia to the United States on October 18, 1867, and the Tlingit peoples who have long flourished on this land. Come for the parade, stay for the cookoff and dancing. ● Alaska Day

Things to see A reminder of Sitka’s colonial past, the green copper dome and spire of St. Michael the Archangel Orthodox Cathedral tower over downtown, serving as a handy wayfinder. Step inside to see a collection of gilded Russian icons, paintings and statues, plus displays illuminating the lives of its congregants in the 19th century. ●

clockwise from top: Sitka National Park’s Harbor Mountain Trail provides sweeping vistas of Sitka Sound. Campfire Kitchen serves creative wood-fired pizzas. Rescued brown and black bears reside in naturalistic habitats at Fortress of the Bear. Tlingit dancers perform to generations-old songs at the Naa Kahidi Dance Show.

The Naa Kahidi Dancers perform a 30minute show with traditional Tlingit music, dancing, and storytelling regularly through September at the Sheet’ka Kwaan Naa Kahidi Tribal Community House. Tickets are only available 30 minutes prior to showtime. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY VISIT SITKA (3); COURTESY STATE OF ALASKA / TOTEM ENT.

●

To learn more about Sitka’s indigenous cultures, the Russian fur trade and American military history in the area, visit the Sitka History Museum. For a world-class collection of Alaskan Native relics and art, visit the small but remarkable Sheldon Jackson Museum, founded by a 19th-century Presbyterian missionary, educator, and collector. The octagonal building lies just east of downtown. ●

What to do outside Hiking in Sitka in autumn is simply glorious: The mosquitoes are gone and the fall colors are out in splendor. Sitka National Historical Park—Alaska’s oldest and smallest national park, at 114 acres—has wheelchair-friendly paths through a temperate rainforest that hugs the coastline. The ●

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Totem Trail, a 1-mile loop, is lined with nearly 20 restored and contemporary totem poles crafted by Tlingit and Haida artists. Before the state-ofthe-art visitor center closes for the season at the end of September, visitors can also peruse exhibits and Indigenous artwork in the gallery and art studio.

Pieces of artwork at Artist Cove Gallery. below: Fishing in Sitka might yield fresh salmon in the rivers, or halibut off the coast.

To see salmon spawning upriver and a tumbling waterfall, hike the 4.5-mile Indian River Trail east of downtown. If you’re up for a challenge, head up Gavan Hill for the steep climb to Harbor Mountain Trail (6 miles one way) for sweeping vistas of Sitka Sound featuring the volcanic peak Mt. Edgecumbe. See even more with a rental e-bike (from May through September) from Kings E-Bikes. ●

For excellent fall angling of silver salmon or deep-sea halibut fishing, book a charter or a fly-in lodge experience with a knowledgeable guide. If you prefer more casual fishing, you can rent equipment in town. ●

Ready for a day of adventure? First hit up WildFlour Café & Bakery for coffee and the best way to start the day: a breakfast smoothie, a smoothie bowl topped with granola and fruit, or a breakfast burrito. Visit on a Sunday to enjoy brioche French toast. ●

About a mile and a half from downtown, Campfire Kitchen Sitka— housed inside Harbor Mountain Brewing Co.—is the place to go for creative and premium wood-fired pizza after a hike. You’ll love their combinations: Milk & Honey is a white pie with ricotta, Alaskan wildflower honey, and Sitka-harvested sea salt. Grab a pint of IPA or stout while you wait. ●

Casual yet upscale Beak Restaurant is perfect for a date night featuring Alaskan cuisine. Chef Renée Trafton—a James Beard Award semifinalist in 2023—offers dishes such as a coho salmon salad sandwich gussied up with pickled bull kelp, a reindeer hot dog with the works, and a soup made from vegetables and Alaskan barley. ●

Where to shop Alaskan makers’ wares—including home goods, body balm, line-art prints, and specialty clothing—are on offer at Galanin + Klein, a chic, woman-owned boutique. ●

Nicola Trainor’s sinuous jewelry made from upcycled xtratuf rubber ●

boots, beloved by Alaskans, can be found with many other artists’ work at Artist Cove Gallery across from the cathedral. (If you need a pair of boots with your earrings, head to nearby Russell’s outdoor gear shop.) Open since 1980, the Russian American Company is the place for ●

imported folk art and crafts such as matryoshka nesting dolls and lacquer boxes, as well as a gallery of Alaska native art. — j e n n i f e r b u r n s b r i g h t

Book your trip Book a Sitka tour through AAA Travel.

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What to eat

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HAUNTED SPOTS in California’s gold country Head up the ‘Golden Chain,’ Highway 49, in search of haunted history. by w h i t n e y p h a n e u f

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KIAL JAMES PHOTOGRAPHY

Broad Street in front of the National Exchange Hotel in Nevada City, Calif.

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GRASS VALLEY Holbrooke Hotel The site of the Holbrooke Hotel has been the heart of Grass Valley since 1852. First founded as the Golden Gate Saloon, a watering hole for gold seekers, gamblers, cowboys, and madames, the saloon added a hotel in back by the next year. In 1879, it became the Holbrooke, named after its owner, D.P. Holbrooke. The Holbrooke has hosted Mark Twain (room 2), infamous outlaw Black Bart (room 9), and four U.S. presidents—Grover Cleveland, James Garfield, Ulysses S. Grant, and Benjamin Harrison. Unusual occurrences have been 38

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documented in rooms 2, 5, 9, 11, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18 per Lyon’s book, but room 15 appears in many accounts. Anthony Jones, former general mana ger of the Holbooke as well as the National Exchange Hotel (they share the same owner) previously hosted the Haunted by History tours offered every Halloween at each hotel. Jones calls himself “a skeptic” but admits that he experienced an unexplainable feeling in room 15. “When I walked in, it was a very odd sensation. Like when you put your hands over your ears, that cupping and muffling of sound, that happened instantly. I turned to my colleague and said, ‘Did you sense the sound closing up?’ She did,” says Jones, adding that the next day, a housekeeper had her cleaning interrupted by the room’s door continually opening by itself; security footage confirmed that no one was around. You don’t need to stay at the Holbrooke to experience paranormal activity. Grab a bite at the Golden Gate Saloon, where smoke-like clouds have been seen clustered around the ceiling and the wine glasses will start to violently shake on their own. At the hotel’s cellar bar, the Iron Door, patrons have reported seeing and hearing a female spirit in the women’s bathroom. Reputed to have been a brothel and a speakeasy, the Iron Door also used to serve as the town’s morgue during the winter when the ground was too frozen over to dig graves, says Jones.

Empire Mine State Historic Park Many men plunged into the dark depths of the Empire Mine—with vertical drops more than 1,000 feet below the surface—and wondered if they’d make it out alive. Some of that energy remains today at the Empire Mine State Historic Park, where you can tour the estate, gardens, mine yard, and even the entrance to an actual shaft. Lyon’s book details cases when visitors have heard miners’ voices and the sound of equipment rumbling in the long-defunct mines, with one witness recounting a scene of three ghostly laborers talking together about how terrified they were to go back into the mines. Ghosts have been known to mill about Bourn Cottage, the summer home of former mine owner William Bourn Jr. According to Lyon, docents have reported “feeling a ghostly presence in the house,” hearing creaking floorboards, and feeling cold drafts out of nowhere and with no explanation.

St. Joseph’s Cultural Center A former convent and the site of Northern California’s only orphanage when it opened in 1866, the St. Joseph’s Cultural Center—formerly Mount Saint Mary’s Academy—

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ocal guide Mark Lyon, the author of Haunted Nevada City and Grass Valley, was leading one of his popular walking tours when two participants mentioned seeing a ghost at Nevada City’s National Exchange Hotel. Lyon’s ears perked up—the specter had been spotted in the hotel’s Presidential Suite, a room long rumored to be full of paranormal activity. They had been walking by the room’s door, which once contained a large glass panel covered by a curtain, when they saw a hand pull back the curtain. “A woman appeared dressed in Victorian clothing with a high collar and she had a stern, spooky look about her,” Lyon retells the story. “I was about to say to them,” he continues, “‘People dress up in costumes in Nevada City all the time,’ but before I could, they said they clearly saw her dematerialize before their eyes into nothing.” Stories like these are common in these parts, Lyon says. “Nevada City and Grass Valley might be the most haunted towns in all of California, if not the entire American West. Why are they so haunted? Perhaps it has something to do with their long, turbulent, and sometimes violent histories.” Lyon has spent the past two decades collecting ghost stories about Nevada City, Grass Valley, and surrounding boom towns, which fuel his walking tours and multiple books. He’s seen some paranormal activity himself, but most of his stories come from his sources’ firsthand or written accounts. Many of the ghostly characters in his books have been seen by multiple independent parties. Whether you’re interested in the fascinating history of the California Gold Rush or communing with otherworldly spirits (or both), take a drive up Highway 49 to stop by all the haunts in Grass Valley and Nevada City.

top: Holbrooke Hotel in Grass Valley, Calif. bottom: Empire Mine State Historic Park is home to one of the oldest gold mines in the state.

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KAT ALVES (3)

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Sitting alcove at National Exchange Hotel in Nevada City, Calif. above, left: Bar at National Exchange Hotel. above, right: Foyer of National Exchange Hotel.

is rumored to be haunted by a few former residents. The dangerous mine conditions of the time left many children without parents, and within the first year of the orphanage opening, 70 kids were living there. By the late 1890s, it was housing over 400 orphans and 60 nuns who cared for them. Today, the carefully preserved property features the Grass Valley Museum, St. Joseph’s Chapel Hall, 13 artists’ studios, and a historic rose garden. Docents, artists, and visitors have all witnessed a ghostly little girl roaming around, per Lyon. Sometimes she appears to them, looking to be five or six, with long hair and dressed in a white nightgown. Other times, they only hear her sobs echo through the brick buildings. She’s been seen so frequently that an artist who rented one of the studios painted her portrait. A nun in an old-fashioned habit has also been reported to haunt the halls.

Del Oro Theatre The art deco neon spire of Del Oro has been a beacon in downtown Grass Valley since the theater opened its doors in 1942. The triplex movie theater retains some of its original charm after a major renovation in the 1970s, including an ornate ceiling mural, a phone booth, and art deco light fixtures. Debatably charming: its numerous ghosts. Some of the most commonly seen specters include a woman dressed in red, a young girl and boy who run down the halls, a man wearing an old-fashioned hat and heavy overcoat, and a woman dressed in white, believed to have fallen or been pushed from the fire escape. After documenting these ghosts for years, Lyon had his own run-in during two of his walking tours leading up to Halloween. He was standing with his group outside, in front of the ticket booth, when handfuls of popcorn mysteriously rained from the sky, seemingly from the roof. A few days later, Lyon led another walking tour to the same spot when a stream of tiny, torn-up concession napkins gently fell on them like snow. “Two members of our group stated they had clearly seen a little girl standing at the edge of the roof laughing as the bits of paper floated down upon us,” Lyon recounts, adding that he confirmed with the theater’s manager that the door to the roof was locked and it was not a practical joke.

NEVADA CITY The National Exchange Hotel When the National Exchange Hotel opened in 1856, Nevada City was already the largest and richest mining town in California. The palatial brick hotel, built in the classical revival A A A | VIA

style, hosted mine owners, businessmen, and even U.S. President Herbert Hoover. It’s believed that the first discussions that led to the formation of the Pacific Gas and Electric Company took place in 1898 in room 314. The entrepreneurs who met that fateful night might be return guests. One evening, a woman staying in room 314, awoke to find “men attired in late nineteenth-century clothing consulting maps, conversing in an enthusiastic manner, and smoking cigars,” Lyon recounts in his book. One ghost so infamous she has a name—Elizabeth—is rumored to have died of mumps in room 411, according to Lyon. Dressed in Victorian attire, Elizabeth has been seen bouncing a ball, jumping rope, and riding her tricycle up and down the halls. She’s been reported throughout the hotel, at the hotel restaurant, Lola, where she gave a couple a fright when she dived under their table chasing her ball. The aforementioned Presidential Suite—now rooms 208 and 209 after an extensive renovation completed in 2021—had seen many frightened hotel guests pack up their belongings in the middle of the night and flee, per Lyon. Other “delightful unregistered guests,” says Lyon, include a dapper Victorian-era gentleman and the “White Lady,” who has been observed floating down hallways and inside guest rooms wearing a long Victorian dress with a yellow sash, her hair in an old-fashioned updo, reeking of cheap perfume.

Lyon. There’s also “a pleasant little old lady” who sits in an antique cane rocking chair, a woman in Victorian clothes who likes to rifle through the museum’s cabinets, and a young boy with blond hair who smells of Bay Rum cologne and talcum powder.

Firehouse No. 1 Museum

Friar Tuck’s Restaurant & Bar

One of the most striking buildings in Nevada City might also be its most haunted. Firehouse No. 1’s white gingerbread Victorian architecture and large bell tower attracts tourists as a photo opp and place to learn about history (it houses the Nevada County Historical Society museum), but many don’t know what lies beneath its beautiful façade. “If you count ghosts per square foot, that’s probably the most haunted place in the entire world,” says Lyon. “There are just so many ghosts alleged to haunt that site, it’s unbelievable.” Completed in 1861, the firehouse functioned as such for 80 years before turning into a museum in 1947. Docents and visitors have reported a large cast of ghostly characters haunting the museum, to the point that retired museum director Tony Smeaton told Lyon that paranormal activity was “everyday normalcy.” Keep an eye out for a heavyset woman with “Mercurochrome red hair” dressed in Victorian garb, who has been spied from the street standing in the second-floor window and seen playing the museum’s vintage organ, rumored to be from one of Nevada City’s many bordellos, according to

A relative newcomer to downtown Nevada City at a mere 50 years old, Friar Tuck’s Restaurant & Bar can’t seem to get rid of the ghost they call “Murph.” The specter loves to cause mischief around the restaurant and kitchen, sending napkins and silverware flying off a table, shattering a plate into bits out of nowhere, blowing out candles, and filling the space with disembodied voices, Lyon writes. When a fire destroyed the restaurant in 2002, then-owner Greg Cook told the Grass Valley Union that he thought Murph had perished in the ashes. Lyon had his doubts. “One night I was talking with a party of diners at the new Friar Tuck’s, and, upon my mentioning Murph, we heard a nearby server scream, followed by the unmistakable sound of crockery smashing violently into each other,” Lyon recounts. “‘Something tore the dishes out of my hands,’ the server exclaimed. I asked, ‘Then Murph is back?’ ‘Yes,’ she quickly affirmed, ‘That happens a lot around here!’” ●

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Nevada Theatre

whitney phaneuf is the editor in chief of Via and loves ghost stories. She has previously held editorial positions at KQED and East Bay Express.

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“Just about every old theater has ghost stories,” says Lyon, but that’s extra true of the Nevada Theatre, which is California’s oldest existing theater building. Opened in 1865, its stage has been graced by Mark Twain and Jack London, and today the theater serves as a center of the arts community with year-round live performances and film screenings. Ghosts have frequently been mistaken for actors, says Lyon. Recently, there was a man dressed like an 1800s cowboy who didn’t cause any heads to turn until he floated through a row of theater seats. An elderly couple dressed in Victorian attire have been seen sitting among the audience, and a Victorian woman was once caught backstage borrowing a prop in the middle of a performance. A ghostly woman has been known to relax in the chairs on the landing leading up to the balcony and a thirtysomething, dark-haired, bearded Victorian gentleman in a black frock coat has been spotted standing near the front of the balcony.

left: Firehouse No. 1 Museum in Nevada City, Calif. below, right: Del Oro Theatre in Grass Valley. bottom: Nevada Theatre in Nevada City.

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Farm-to-table dinner at KendallJackson in Fulton, Calif. below, left: Browse the options at Mitote Food Park. below, right: Bonbon tasting at Fleur Sauvage Chocolates.

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Hidden

SONOMA COUNTY

GEMS CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY SONOMA COUNTY TOURISM (2); JLEESTUDIO9

to discover in fall

S 23 ways to enjoy Northern California’s harvest season. by m at t v i l l a n o

onoma County, like many of its finest wines, gets better with age. More attractions! Amazing restaurants! New bars! Top-notch outdoor adventures! The county continues to evolve as a world-class destination, appealing to people from all over the Bay Area and all over the world. ¶ Not all the coolest diversions in Sonoma County are well known. Some, in fact, fly so low under the radar that even locals don’t know what’s there. Contributing writer (and 16-year Healdsburg resident) Matt Villano recently hunted down 23 of the best-kept secrets in the county and told us why harvest season is the best time to experience them. Here, in no particular order, is what he found. A A A | VIA

Things to do

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Robert Ferguson Observatoryis the largest in Northern California completely dedicated to public viewing. top left: Tuesday night market on Sonoma Plaza. top right: The Clover Theater in Cloverdale, Calif.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY SONOMA VALLEY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE; MELISSA BARNES; DIANE ASKEW

There are farmers’ markets, and then there’s the Tuesday Night Market on the plaza in downtown Sonoma. This weekly celebration of local growers and makers has a festival-like atmosphere that includes live music, dancing, and other forms of revelry. In addition to farmers hawking their produce, the market features vendors selling artisan goods and sweets including freshly baked cookies. Bring a bottle of wine and make this your destination for a light harvest dinner. Old is new again at North Bay Letterpress Arts, a Sebastopol studio dedicated to the conservation of old-school printing methods. The studio has nine different printing presses, all restored to function the way they did hundreds of years ago. The organization hosts several one-day workshops throughout the year in which guests can get hands-on experience with typesetting and learn how to print cards, posters, or small notebooks to take home. Workshops usually last four or five hours. Relax and rejuvenate in a pool of mineral water at Morton’s Warm Springs, a beloved family-friendly destination alongside Sonoma Creek in the Valley of the Moon. The springs, in operation since 1946, reopened this summer after extensive site improvements. Today it offers three pools (including one kiddie pool), a picnic area, and an on-site café that serves farm-to-table organic food. Reservations are required, and it’s recommended to reserve two to three days in advance for weekends. Stargazing needs a pitch-black sky, and the heavens above Sugarloaf Ridge State Park in Kenwood are about as dark as they come. That’s why the Robert Ferguson Observatory is such a big deal. With several powerful telescopes, the observatory is the largest in Northern California completely dedicated to public viewing. See for yourself by attending one of the regular stargazing classes, most of them led by docents and local astronomers. The game is on at the Rewind Arcade, an upscale yet retro arcade at the Barlow in Sebastopol. The neon-happy spot opened this summer with dozens of throwback arcade games, up to 15 vintage pinball machines, and two giant TV screens for Super Smash Bros. tournaments. Guests over 21 get bracelets for the self-service wall of local and imported beers and ciders on draught. On weekends, Rewind is open until midnight, bringing legitimate nightlife to this otherwise sleepy corner of the county. It’s hard not to have a memorable night at the Rio Nido Roadhouse in the Russian River Valley. The restaurant cranks out upscale comfort food, the bar pours stiff drinks, and the pool is open late for night swimming. On weekends in the fall, the roadhouse also hosts live bands in on the patio, creating a mini-musicfestival vibe. Most nights, dancing breaks out spontaneously on the patio. Movies are just better in old-school movie theaters. Naturally, then, seeing a movie at the circa-1950 Clover Theater in Cloverdale

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Antique cannons in front of the restored Russian Orthodox chapel at Fort Ross State Historic Park in Jenner, Calif. top, left: The Hand Fan Museum in Healdsburg, Calif. top, right: Kapu transports guests to the tropics.

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is special. Screening rooms are relatively small. Concessions come from an antique counter. The co-owner, Ryan Hecht, might be the person who takes your ticket. Perhaps the best part of the Clover experience is the price: The theater gets first-run films, and the matinee is $7, while evening shows are $11. That kind of value gets two thumbs up. Fundemonium, which occupies the corner of a strip mall in Rohnert Park, is way more than your average toy store; the shop boasts tracks and rock courses for radiocontrolled cars and supports a robust community of slot car enthusiasts. While many bring their own cars, anyone can go in and rent one to test-drive for a while. If you go on a Thursday night, you also might be lucky enough to catch the weekly game of Warhammer.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MELISSA BARNES; BROWN W. CANNON III / VISIT PETALUMA; KEN SCHULZE / SHUTTERSTOCK

Things to see Harvest time means Halloween, and Halloween tends to mean eeriness. Few Sonoma County hauntings compare to Blind Scream Haunted House in Santa Rosa, where ghouls and goblins are played by live actors. As you progress through the haunted house, creeps and crazies come out of the shadows to scare you, or howl in your ear. Even the most stoic adventurers will have a hard time keeping their screams and shrieks inside. Yes, they serve coffee and delicious food at Brew Coffee and Beer House, a coffee shop with locations in Santa Rosa and Forestville, but the LGBTQ haven is better known for its open-mic nights. Local singer-songwriters turn out in droves every week on Tuesdays in Santa Rosa; shows are all ages and go until every musician has played at least one song. The Forestville location recently added trivia on Friday nights. Buff bodies go flying on the third Friday of every other month at Phoenix Pro Wrestling (PPW), a family-friendly wrestling show in Petaluma’s iconic Phoenix Theater. The spectacle draws male and female entertainers from all over Northern California; for two to three hours, they open cans of whoop on each other, just like in WWE Monday Night Raw. PPW events are produced by Jim Aguis and Josh Drake, Petaluma kids who have loved wrestling since the 1980s. The last thing you expect to see out on the rugged and remote Sonoma County coast is a Russian Orthodox chapel. But this chapel is one of the main attractions at Fort Ross State Historic Park. Fort Ross was a settlement of the Russian-American Company from 1812 to 1841. Before that— and afterward—the spot has been of cultural importance to the Kashia Pomo people. On-site museums and docents who share oral histories are a great way to learn more. In addition to being home to Sonoma County’s only

three-Michelin-starred restaurant (SingleThread), Healdsburg also holds North America’s only museum dedicated to hand fans. The Hand Fan Museum, on the street level of Hotel Healdsburg, has upwards of 2,500 fans in its collection, though it usually displays no more than 50 or 60 at a time. The museum is the brainchild of Pam Sher, whose family owns the hotel. She has been collecting fans for more than 50 years.

Places to eat and drink Take your stomach to Mexico (without ever leaving Santa Rosa) with a visit to the Roseland neighborhood, just southwest of Railroad Square. Start the food journey at Mitote Food Park, where you can sample birria tacos, fresh shrimp ceviche, churro sandwiches, and other delicious dishes from a series of food trucks. For dessert, cross Sebastopol Avenue and head for Frozen Art, where the Alcázar family from Tocumbo, Mexico, hand-make rotating flavors such as chongos, mamey, and horchata fresh daily. In Sonoma, fancy food is on full display at Epicurean Connection, a commercial kitchen in the warehouse district that hosts cooking classes and runs a small shop for cheese and other tasty items. The business is owned by Sheana Davis and Ben Sessions, the former of whom recently coauthored a book about compound butters with her daughter, Karina. Davis is also plugged into the local Tibetan community and regularly sells homemade momos, dumplings of the Himalayas. Chocolates are the stars of the show at Fleur Sauvage Chocolates, a modest sweet shop just one block off the Town Green in Windsor. Chef Robert “Buttercup” Nieto crafts dozens of different varieties of bonbons, including such favorites as whiskey caramel. Since the place opened in December 2021, Nieto has added cakes and other desserts to his repertoire, and at a sit-down tea and sweets experience throughout the week, he offers tastings of these delights. One of the most memorable pop-up dinners in Sonoma County is the monthly Farm-to-Table Dinner at KendallJackson in Fulton. This event, held at long tables set at Kendall-Jackson’s Wine Estate & Gardens north of Santa Rosa, features produce-driven menus every month, paired perfectly with KJ wines (of course). The dinner on October 7 features guest chef Kim Alter and American wagyu and Kurobuta pork from Snake River Farms in Idaho. Consider Petaluma’s newest watering hole a portal that transports guests to the tropics. Named Kapu, the joint specializes in drinks such as mai tais and jungle bird, as well as South Pacific-inspired food such as poke nachos A A A | VIA

and adobo fried rice. The space was designed by Bamboo Ben, the country’s foremost designer of bars that embrace tropical escapism. If you’re planning to go on a weekend, make reservations, as the line can get long. Healdsburg lost a gem of an Italian restaurant when Campo Fina closed in 2022. Thankfully, Molti Amici, the restaurant to take its place, is equally spectacular, but in different ways. The new eatery is also Italian, serving wood-fired pizzas and a giant raviolo oozing with egg and cheese. It has brought back bocce, too. Molti Amici is the brainchild of SingleThread alum Jonny Barr, who tapped Sean McGaughey and Melissa Yanc (both of Quail & Condor Bakery and Troubadour) as co-executive chefs.

The climb to the top of Pole Mountain is significant on the Sea to Sky trail at Jenner Headlands Preserve, an expansive park outside Jenner on the Sonoma County coast. On a clear day, the reward for those aching hamstrings (and the 7.5 miles up): a mind-bending view of the Pacific Ocean to the west. Give space to any wayward cows about halfway up the hike; the trail goes right through working ranchland. And you know the saying “Where there are cows, there are cow pies,” so beware of those, too. Beach experiences don’t get much better than Pinnacle Gulch in Bodega Bay. This secret beach is at the bottom end of a 1.2mile hiking trail that starts near a small parking lot in a residential neighborhood just south of Bodega Bay Harbor. Once you hit the sand, look out for sea stars, chitons, mussels, and hermit crabs lurking in tide pools during low tide. In fall, the beach is also a great place for spotting whales and seals frolicking in the surf. Paddling the Russian River is one of the most legendary experiences a visitor to Sonoma County (or a local, for that matter) can pursue. On self-guided tours with Russian River Adventures in Healdsburg, guests put in just south of the Memorial Beach dam and get picked up just beyond Wohler Bridge in Windsor before heading back. In between, the ride is slow and steady with the current—the perfect way to spend a hot summer day. The Grove of Old Trees is exactly what it sounds like: a stand of healthy, old-growth Coast Redwoods outside of Occidental, protected forever from development. The park, owned by Landpaths, has existed for more than 20 years, and has become a quiet (and almost mystical) place to hike and reflect. Tree caves enhance the experience for visitors of all ages. Just be mindful of the approach—access to the park is a narrow one-lane road, and there are only a few parking spots at the trailhead. ● matt villano is a writer and editor based in Healdsburg. He has covered travel, science, and business for publications such as the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, and the San Francisco Chronicle. 50

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: BOURNE PHOTOGRAPHY; DANITA DELIMONT / ALAMY; TIMOTHY S. ALLEN / SHUTTERSTOCK

Outdoor adventures

Paddling with Russian River Adventures in Healdsburg, Calif. bottom, left: The Grove of Old Trees is a privately-owned park of Coast Redwoods. bottom, right: The view from the top of the Jenner Headlands Trail.

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