Via | May+June 2023 by Via magazine | AAA Mountain West Group

MAY+JUNE 2023

10 Extraordinary Music Fests Favorite U-Pick Spots Get Better Sleep on the Road

The Land of the

Midnight Sun Take a summer drive through Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula

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Give emergency vehicles more space. Stay safe and save lives by always

Editorial

EDITOR Whitney Phaneuf MANAGING EDITOR Katie Henry CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Mandy Ferreira

and LeeAnne Jones

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DESIGN DIRECTOR Monica Ewing Jensen PHOTO EDITOR Maggie Perkins

Digital

SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Amy Mackey

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ADVERTISING MANAGER Natasha Alcalá

being on the lookout. Your safety, and that of our drivers, is very important.

Change of address Allow four weeks’ advance notice. Contact AAA at (800) 922-8228. Manuscripts and photos Query ﬁrst; Via assumes no responsibility for return of unsolicited material. Reprints from Via Contents copyrighted 2023 AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. No part of Via may be reprinted without written permission. Contact Via Editorial Address all mail to Via, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA 94623, or viamail@via magazine.com. Your input may be edited and published in print or online. Contact Via Advertising Address all mail to Via Advertising, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA 94623. Fax (510) 899-0525.

SFI-00993 COVER AND BODY PRINTED ON SFI-CERTIFIED PAPER.

CONTENTS

May+June 2023 / Vol. 145 / No. 3

Musicians perform in Xylem, a wooden pavillion designed by architect Diébédo Francis Kéré at Tippet Rise Art Center in Montana. Page 44.

FE AT U R E S

D E PA R T M E N T S

34 Road-Trip Through

6 To Our Members

Southcentral Alaska

With summer light that stretches on and on, you can pack a lot of life into a weeklong road trip around the Kenai Peninsula. by j e n n a s c h n u e r

44 10 Extraordinary

Outdoor Music Experiences in the West These festivals and venues offer aural and visual delights. by d e r k r i c h a r d s o n and whitney phaneuf

We’re bringing you much-needed benefits that increase the value of your Membership.

8 Smart Life

How to get better sleep while traveling; everything you need to know about setting up a smart home; how to read a credit report line by line.

Connect with us AAA.com/facebook AAA.com/instagram AAA.com/pinterest AAA.com/youtube

22 On the Road

Members’ favorite u-pick farms in the West; road-tripping along Sonoma County’s Russian River; a weekend in Kalispell, Mont.

ON THE COVER Rock spires in the turquoise water of Spire Cove in Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska. Page 34. A A A | VIA

TO OUR MEMBERS

↘ We’re bringing you much-needed benefits that increase the value of your Membership. Can you imagine what 50 feet of snow looks like? Despite living through my fair share of winters, I just can’t wrap my head around the winter that Mother Nature had in store for us this year. While this recordbreaking winter helps much of the West recover from a severe drought, count me as one of many looking forward to the longer, warmer days of summer ahead. This historically wet winter caused havoc for homeowners and drivers alike, creating unusual challenges for our roadside assistance team. I want to personally thank all of our tow truck drivers and technicians who braved the ever-changing, oftentimes perilous weather conditions to go above and beyond to serve our Members. This commitment to service is what defines AAA. With daylight lasting longer and summer weather setting in, you’re most likely thinking of hitting the open road, be that far and wide or just around your neighborhood. For those times when you are traveling, as well as when at home, I’d suggest that you consider adding the AAA Smart Home Security system along

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TIM CONDON, PRESIDENT & CEO

SUMMER MEDINA / SHUTTERSTOCK

Brighter, sunnier days ahead

with our professional monitoring. I know firsthand how useful it is to be able to see and greet someone at your front door, or know whether a door or window is open, or glance at your yard, all from the convenience of your phone. (BTW, in this issue of Via, you’ll find an insightful article: “Everything you need to know about setting up a smart home.”) After a longer than usual inclement-weather season, your car deserves a thorough check to get it road-ready for summer. Stop by one of our trusted AAA Auto Repair Centers where our ASE-certified technicians are ready to assist you with a wide range of expert repair and maintenance services, including a multipoint inspection report provided straight to your mobile device, so that you know ahead of time what work is required. And remember, Members get a 10 percent discount on labor and an extended 24-month, 24,000-mile warranty on repairs. There are lots of great articles in this issue that we hope will inspire you to hit the road on a summer adventure. Our road trip feature will transport you to the state of the Midnight Sun—Alaska—where it feels like the sun never sets, or when it does, it only stays away for a few hours. Experience a stunning scenic drive from Anchorage to Seward to Homer and discover breathtaking nature, fascinating history, and delicious local food including wild salmon. Embrace and enjoy your summer and any trips you may have planned, and I look forward to connecting with you again in the next issue of Via. ba.

ROSSHELEN / SHUTTERSTOCK

Smart Life

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When you wake up, get some sunshine within the first hour of your day. SMART TRAVEL

How to get better sleep while traveling ↘ Make those z’s more restful to recharge for those on-the-road adventures.

For places designed to help travelers get some muchneeded rest, hotel rooms and vacation rentals can be surprisingly difficult places to sleep: There aren’t enough pillows, the mattress is either too firm or too soft, and the temperature is never quite right. Once you finally do get to sleep, the sounds of late-arriving guests or little travelers running down the halls might make that rest, quite frankly, unrestful. The good news is that you don’t have to sacrifice your z’s every time you hit the road. Here are a few ways to sleep better in your home away from home.

1. Block LEDs with electrical tape. A dark environment is key to getting good sleep, and keeping a small roll of black electrical tape in your suitcase (and a pair of scissors to cut the tape) can help you block out any stray light. At bedtime, cut off small pieces from the roll and stick them over LEDs on the TV, landline phone, thermostat, alarm clock, and anywhere else displaying those annoying red lights. The tape can be removed the next morning—or at the duration of your stay—without a trace.

2. Keep curtains shut with a pants hanger. The secret to keeping those pesky hotel-room curtains closed at night can be found right in the closet: a trouser hanger. Turn the hanger on its side, then use the attached clips to cinch the window drapes closed, creating a darker sleeping environment. If you’re staying at a vacation home or budget hotel—any place that might not have A A A | VIA

SMART LIFE

Bring a good, but not great, book to help you wind down.

pants hangers—stash a couple of big binder clips in your suitcase to do the trick. smart tip If light from the hall beams in from under your door, block it with a rolled-up towel from your bathroom.

3. Put on white noise.

4. Adjust the thermostat. The temperature of your sleeping environment can make a big difference in how well you sleep. According to the CDC, your bedroom temperature should be comfortably cool, somewhere between 65 and 68 degrees for most people. While you’re adjusting the thermostat, set the fan to remain on overnight, too. The relaxing, consistent sound of the fan can act like white noise and help you sleep soundly throughout the night.

5. Honor your pillow preferences. Research shows that spending the night in a new environment forces your brain to be more vigilant, making it difficult to fall asleep. Make your hotel room or vacation rental feel more familiar by traveling with your own pillow from home. If you can’t squeeze a pillow into your

Lavender or peppermint aromatherapy mist can improve sleep quality.

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suitcase, look for a hotel that offers a pillow menu. This amenity allows you to choose from a list of popular pillow options—such as goose down, memory foam, hypoallergenic, and microfiber—so your bed can match your personal preferences and feel a little more like home.

6. Spritz your hotel room with essential oils. Pack a travel-size bottle of lavender aromatherapy mist in your toiletry bag on your next trip. Researchers have found that this specific scent can help counteract insomnia and other sleep problems. Before bed, lightly spritz your room and pillow, and let the floral fragrance help prepare you for slumber. Not into lavender? Try peppermint instead. One study found the fresh scent was just as effective as its floral counterpart at improving sleep quality.

7. Stick to your routine. Maintaining your usual bedtime routine while traveling can increase the chances of getting sound sleep. When traveling within your own time zone, try to hit the hay at the same time you do when you’re home. No matter which time zone you travel to, if you usually read before bed, bring a good—but not great—book to help you wind down. Avoid TVs, smartphones, and other electronic devices in the two to three hours leading up to bedtime— as we know, the blue light emitted from these can disrupt your circadian rhythm. And when you wake up (at your usual time preferably), get some sunshine within the first hour of your day. This helps keep that circadian clock on track which AAA Member will eventually help you get to savings sleep more easily that evening, Members save up so you won’t endure a night of to 20% off hotel tossing and turning on your rates. Book today. vacation. — j o n i sw e e t

TOP: TRIOCEAN / ISTOCK; BOTTOM: JUSTYNA KARWACKA / SHUTTERSTOCK

Listening to white noise has been shown to help people drift off more quickly and get better sleep, helping to drown out the volume of noisy environments. YouTube, streaming music services, and meditation apps are filled with tracks of white noise (and other repetitive, relaxing sounds) you can play from your smartphone all night long. Or invest in a mini white noise machine to take on the go.

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SMART LIFE

A control panel gives you convenient access to every aspect of your smart home.

Everything you need to know about setting up a smart home ↘ Building a smart home can start with a single bulb or switch. Automated homes are no longer the domain of science fiction. And now that smart technology is becoming mainstream, smart home devices are cheaper and easier to use than ever. There are more than 60 million connected homes in the U.S., meaning nearly half of all families interact with a smart home device every month. It might seem like complicated, mechanical wizardry, but starting to build your smart home can be as unassuming as adding a single light bulb to your abode. So what 12

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exactly is a connected home and what are the best smart home devices? We have you covered.

What is a smart home? A smart or connected home includes any combination of household devices, fixtures, appliances, entertainment, and security systems that communicate over the internet and can be controlled remotely using a smartphone, computer, voice activation, or other interface. These devices are what’s known as a part of the “Internet of Things,” a term for everyday products that can connect to and be controlled by the internet. Real estate companies have a more specific definition of a connected home. Coldwell Banker, for example, says the home must have a smart security system that either controls access (such as a smart lock) or monitors the property (such as a security camera), or that it must have a smart temperature feature (such as a thermostat). In addition to that, a connected home has two or more smart devices, which could include appliances (e.g. a smart fridge), entertainment systems (smart TV), heating

COURTESY AAA SMART HOME SECURITY

SMART HOME

A small camera inside and/or outside can help you monitor your home while you’re away.

RYAN DARCY

A smart door lock can grant and revoke entry, and you can set multiple access codes.

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SMART LIFE or cooling systems (smart fans), lighting (smart bulbs or automated lighting), outdoor systems (smart sprinklers), or safety features (smart fire detectors). The software or hardware that bridges and connects all of this is called a “hub.” Hubs, such as Samsung SmartThings Station, are small devices that log all of the devices in your home and synchronize your ability to control them via smartphone app, voice activated systems (such as Alexa), or an entertainment system (such as Apple TV). Think of a hub like the “brain” of your home system.

What types of devices are there? There are thousands of different smart devices, but the main categories are: Security devices, which help monitor and protect your

home, including everything from security sensors for windows to door locks to security cameras. These devices send push alerts to your phone or tablet if security is breached, allow you to check the status of your property remotely, and more. Household smart tech, which replace your everyday

home essentials such as thermostats, lights, washer/dryers, and even plugs. Many of these devices help reduce

energy expenditures, remember your preferred settings, and can be operated remotely using an app. Entertainment and media, such as smart televisions and

speakers. These devices do more than stream movies or play music. Some can also act as master remotes for other devices around the home thanks to embedded digital assistants. Digital assistants, such as Alexa or Google Home, which

help manage things around the home. They come embedded in devices, such as smart speakers, or can be accessed from your phone. Ask it to turn off lights in a particular room, create a shopping list, answer burning questions, place a phone call, or lock a smart door.

How do I set up a smart home? A quick search online will show many individual products as well as entire connected home “ecosystems,” devices that are compatible with a single manufacturer—such as Google Home or Apple HomeKit—and communicate and work in concert with each other. The best way to get started is to ask yourself, “What is a simple need my household has?” and start there. Research products that solve a clear problem—keeping an

RYAN DARCY

A smart home can start with a simple video doorbell.

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eye on the security of your backyard or saving on home energy bills, for example. In these cases, you might purchase a smart security camera that sends live video to an app on your phone, or you might opt for a smart thermostat that “learns” your preferred temperatures throughout the day and works to cut down on your energy expenditures each month. Alternatively, if you’re not sure you want to commit to a whole system for your house, you might opt for a single product that doesn’t require professional installation, such as smart lights that turn on when you enter a room. If you’re happy with that initial smart home gadget, you can buy another that connects to it and enhances the service.

How much does a connected or smart home cost? The average cost of a full smart home is $840 on average. However, many individual products are available for much less. For example, a smart thermostat typically costs around $200 to $500 per device, plus between $100-300 for professional installation, and a small monthly fee. A simple smart speaker, a wireless speaker with a built-in voice assistant such as Amazon Echo or Google Home, on the other hand, may cost as little as $20-40 in addition to an annual subscription fee. A smart plug, which lets you remotely control on-off switches for any device, runs as low as $8. “When thinking about your smart home budget, consider what level of reliability and cybersecurity you want,” says Jessica Cahill, director of product marketing for AAA Smart Home Security. “More secure devices will cost more, but it is generally worth the extra expense.”

BBERNARD / SHUTTERSTOCK

What features should I look for? First, everything must be compatible. If not, your devices won’t work in harmony. The good news is that many popular devices sync with multiple ecosystems, such as Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant, and Samsung SmartThings. When you’re buying new smart home gear, check the product’s website. As far as what particular devices to buy, look for something that solves a clear need, makes your day easier, and integrates seamlessly with your lifestyle. Pick something you’ll regularly use. For example, if you are hoping to reduce your energy use, smart thermostats or automated lighting systems can learn your schedule and activate when they sense that you’re at home, which can help you cut down on energy

A connected home lets you control your space with a phone or tablet.

bills. Shade controls, which allow you to lower or raise shades with the simple click of an app, are also popular for cutting down on the cost of cooling and heating homes— plus, they can be set to a particular schedule so that when you’re away on vacation it looks like someone is home. If you have children, look into systems that offer family accounts. In that case, you can assign specific passcodes and security levels to family members, friends, or hired help, which allow or limit access to certain devices or parts of the home. Another benefit to families: Smart homes can help you keep track of your family members. For example, smart systems might alert you when your child uses their smartphone or their special code to open the front door or are detected on a security camera, so you know that they’ve safely arrived home from school. Professionally installed devices can also add value to your home if you plan on selling it within the next few years. “While installing smart home products yourself may save a few bucks, there are a lot of advantages to opting for a professional installation,” Cahill says. “Professional installers are experts in home security and automation, and they can create a customized smart home system that works together properly and protects your home from security vulnerabilities so that you feel safe and secure.”

Should I be worried about security issues or hacking? Concerns about hacking are legitimate: Anything that connects to the internet can be hacked. Many people buy connected home products, such as security cameras and smart locks, because they’re concerned about safety. Your home protection device shouldn’t be what lets strangers burgle your home or leaks your data to nefarious outsiders. Dawn Song, professor of electrical engineering and computer science at UC Berkeley, has published research showing that a variety of smart locks were vulnerable to at least one of the hacks her team attempted. In the past several years, her team has repeatedly demonstrated that AI learning systems can still easily be fooled and manipuA A A | VIA

SMART LIFE AAA Member savings AAA Members save up to $60 per year on AAA Smart Home Security Monitoring. Learn more at AAA.com/smarthome.

How do I prevent my smart home and other devices from being hacked? Back to the ecosystem comparison: If one part fails, the rest will collapse. Your system is only as good as its weakest link. Hackers look for easy entry points: All it takes is one device to compromise the entire system. There are a few easy steps to stay secure: 1. Only install products that encrypt your data when it’s

stored or transferred, including if it’s sent to the cloud or as it travels to an app on your phone. 2. Wi-Fi networks should be private and set with a secure

passcode to prevent would-be hackers from hopping on your connection. Routers are among the top ways that hackers steal information or gain access to smart home devices. Replace your router whenever it’s old enough that firmware updates are no longer supported (approximately every 3 to 5 years). Get a router that can manage two separate wi-fi networks: One for your personal computing devices, such as laptops and smartphones, and a second for your smart devices. That way, a compromised 16

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smart device won’t let hackers access personal data from your emails, shopping history, and banking apps. 3. Make sure that any installations of security cameras,

door locks, and thermostats are done by a reputable professional. 4. Keep all products running on the latest software with

frequent updates. Many products from top brands, such as Amazon and Google, install security updates automatically. 5. Change all default usernames and passwords immedi-

ately upon set-up of a new device, and make sure that they are all different for each device. A secure online password manager can help you generate strong passwords (ideally more than 16 letters and characters long) and help you keep them all straight. Cahill also recommends regularly changing your passwords for added security. 6. Use two-factor authentication, if it’s available.

Though a smart home can take time and research to set up properly, it can be well worth it. Not only can it be an investment in your home, but it can ultimately help make your day more efficient, secure your property, and save you money. — l e x i pa n d e l l

RYAN DARCY

lated. “There are still open challenges in ensuring security and privacy for connected home products,” she says.

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SMART LIFE

Frequently review your credit report to ensure there aren’t any errors or signs of fraud.

How to read a credit report line by line ↘ Make a habit of regularly checking your credit report to ensure every detail is accurate. Getting a free copy of your credit report is easier than ever, but because they were designed by and for companies and not consumers, learning how to read one can take some time. You are entitled to obtain one free copy of your official credit report from each of the three credit bureaus—Experian, Equifax, and TransUnion—once a year at annualcreditreport.com. Through the end of 2023, however, you can get each report as often as once a week, a benefit that began in 2020 to help people through the Covid-19 pandemic. A credit report “is your financial report card,” says Ted 18

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Rossman, senior industry analyst with Bankrate. It shows prospective lenders how good or bad you are at handling credit. It can have a big impact on whether you get a loan and how much you’ll pay, so it’s crucial to make sure every detail is accurate. “The report is the raw information that’s used to calculate credit scores,” Rossman says, but it generally does not include a score. Each of the bureaus provides basically the same information, but there is no standard format, so each report will look a bit different. Getting mistakes corrected takes time. Ideally, you should check your report periodically and “at least two or three months before a major purchase,” says Kate Hao, founder of Happy Mango, which helps lenders make loans to people with tarnished credit history or none at all.

How to get a credit report To get your free reports at annualcreditreport.com, you’ll need to provide your name, address, Social Security number, and date of birth. Then you’ll have to verify your identity by entering a code sent by text or email or answering questions from information in your credit report.

FIZKES / SHUTTERSTOCK

SMART MONEY

You can get your own credit report even if you have frozen it to prevent access by certain third parties. Obtaining your own credit report will not impact your credit score.

Who can see your credit report Entities with a permissible purpose can access your report, generally with your permission after you have submitted an application to them. This includes any lender you’re seeking credit from, your existing creditors, employers or prospective employers, insurance companies, government agencies for the purpose of extending benefits, potential landlords, utility companies that may provide services to you, and banks when you want to open a checking account, according to the Federal Reserve. Some states prevent entities such as employers, insurance companies, and utilities from accessing your credit report or using it in certain ways.

What’s in your report Personal information. This includes your name, address,

full or partial Social Security number, and date of birth. It’s not uncommon for credit bureaus to mix up people with the same name or similar ones, so it’s crucial to check this information for accuracy.

Employer. Your report might include your current and/or

past employers if you put their name(s) on loan application(s). It won’t include your income or how long you worked there and your employment will never factor into your credit score so there’s no need to update it, according to Experian. Unpaid child support. Delinquent child support pay-

ments can appear in a credit report if the delinquency is reported by the state agency.

SONG_ABOUT_SUMMER / SHUTTERSTOCK

Credit inquiries. These can be hard inquiries by lenders

after you apply for credit, or soft inquiries, which include periodic reviews by current lenders, pre-screening inquiries by prospective lenders, and your own requests. Hard inquiries may affect your credit score; soft inquiries do not. Credit information. This is the largest and most impor-

tant part. It consists of payment information on open and closed accounts including credit cards and home, car, and student loans. It will show whether you are the account owner (including for loans you co-signed), a joint owner with another person, or an authorized user. Make sure you

Many banking apps will show your latest credit score.

note the difference and that it’s reported correctly. Depending on the type of account, it might show your required and actual payments, terms, current and high balance, credit limit, and whether you paid on time or were late and if so, how late. Most lenders do not start reporting payments as delinquent until they are 30 or more days past due. One exception: Federally guaranteed student loans are typically not reported as delinquent until they become 90 days late. Private student loans may be reported delinquent sooner, according to Eric Ellman, senior vice president with the Consumer Data Industry Association, a trade group for the consumer reporting industry. When a student loan is in deferment or forbearance, no payments are due, but the debt may still show up on your report. Even if you make a single payment, your student loans may show up as separate accounts for each semester. Credit information comes from your lenders, but not all lenders report to any or all three bureaus, so it’s important to check all three reports for accuracy. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau says consumers should look out for and correct errors such as these: incorrect accounts resulting from identity theft; closed accounts reported as open; on-time payments reported as late or delinquent; accounts on which you are reported as an owner when you are just an authorized user; incorrect balances or credit limits; and the same debt listed more than once, possibly with different names.

What’s (usually) not in your credit report Other debts. Money you owe to entities other than lend-

ers—such as utility or telecom companies, doctors, or hospitals—generally do not show up on your credit report unless they have been turned over to a collection agency and the agency reports them. Public records. Certain debts obtained from public

records previously appeared on credit reports, but they were removed in 2017 and 2018. These include tax liens, civil judgments, and unpaid library fines and traffic tickA A A | VIA

SMART LIFE ets. Bankruptcies, which show up in public records, still appear and are a “major red flag,” Hao says. Evictions. These do not show up on credit reports, and,

If you find a mistake on your credit report, report it immediately.

since civil judgments no longer appear, if the landlord were to sue for unpaid lease amounts, that would not appear on the credit report either, Ellman says. However, evictions can show up on tenant-screening reports that landlords often obtain when someone applies for a rental. Buy Now, Pay Later loans. This new, fast-growing type of

Most BNPL lenders do not report loans to the credit bureaus. If they do report loans, the three bureaus treat them differently. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau has urged the credit bureaus and BNPL lenders to come up with a consistent format for reporting these loans but so far they haven’t.

How long does information remain? Open accounts in good standing will stay on your report indefinitely. Closed accounts that were paid as agreed stay on your report for up to 10 years. Most negative information—such as delinquencies, late payments, collection accounts, and defaults—stay on credit reports for seven years. Bankruptcies remain for seven to 10 years, depending on the bankruptcy type.

Most negative information stays on credit reports for seven years.

One exception is medical debt. Starting July 1, 2022, the three credit bureaus stopped reporting unpaid medical collection accounts until they were one year past due (up from 180 days previously) and removed all paid medical collections from credit reports. They also announced that starting in the first half 2023, medical collections with balances below $500 will no longer appear on consumer credit reports. The newer the information, the greater the effect it will have on your credit score. “The negative effects are most pronounced in the first several years,” Rossman says.

How to correct errors If you find a mistake on your credit report, report it immediately to the credit bureau(s) and the company that provided the misinformation. Include an explanation and documents supporting your point. You can dispute errors by phone, by mail, or online while viewing your report. For more information, go to consumerfinance.gov and search for “dispute credit report errors.”

What if you’re denied credit? Under the Fair Credit Reporting Act, if someone uses your credit report to deny your application for credit, insurance, or employment or takes an adverse action against you, that person or entity must give you the name, address, and phone number of the agency that provided the information. To learn AAA Member savings more, go to consumMembers get free identity erfinance.gov and monitoring, plus discounts search for “Fair Credit on upgraded protection. Reporting Act.” Enroll now. — k at h l e e n p e n d e r

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TOP: FIZKES / SHUTTERSTOCK; BOTTOM: REDPIXEL.PL / SHUTTERSTOCK

loan lets buyers pay for purchases in installments, often in four equal payments every two weeks. There is usually no interest or late fee if the buyer pays on time. Some longerterm Buy Now, Pay Later (BNPL) loans do charge interest and fees.

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On the Road

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MEMBERS’ FAVORITE

U-pick farms in the West ↘ Make a detour to these destinations to harvest your own produce. “An orchard in the desert? In Las Vegas? Yup: Gilcrease Orchard. You’ll have to pick in the heat of summer to get apples, but it is a true u-pick farm and orchard with veggies and fruits from spring through fall. Get on the mailing list to know what’s in season in the desert and be aware that there are limited hours, typically 7 a.m. to 10 a.m. on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.” — j u l i e g i l m o r e “Two Sisters U-Pick Apricots, in Fresno, California, provides the ladders, buckets, and bags for transporting all your freshly picked goodies home. I suggest a clean pair of shoes to go home in, too. The season usually starts around Memorial Day. I make homemade jam every year!” — m a ry s t e wa rt “My favorite spot to pick berries is Mortimer Farms in Dewey, Arizona. I love the homemade pies and other items they have in addition to the juicy berries.” — s h e r i h a z e n

COURTESY GILCREASE ORCHARD

“For all kinds of yummy apple goodies, go to Gizdich Ranch in Watsonville, California. The family-oriented orchard is run by a long-time Watsonville family. It has a great bakery with, of course, delicious apple pies, plus freshpressed apple juice, and even slushies! The ranch is an all-around great place to visit.” — d o r o t h y d e lu c c h i

Apriums from Gilcrease Orchard in Las Vegas.

“Detering Orchards in Harrisburg, Oregon, is a great destination for u-pick produce: Cherries are at their prime in early summer, blueberries abound in July, peaches peak in August, and A A A | VIA

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pears and pumpkins are available to pick in the fall. Just a short drive from Eugene, you’ll feel right at home on the farm, which has activities for the whole family. Kids love swinging on the playground, feeding the goats, or shooting apples that are past their prime into the cow pasture with the “apple blaster” (a bungee cord slingshot rigged between two trees). Adults

can shop for fresh produce. Local band Spence Palermo is often featured as entertainment during autumn weekends.” — j e n n i e d a n i e ls “We love going to Kiyokawa Family Orchards in Parkdale, Oregon, for freshly picked apples and pears. We have gone several times, and on each visit the staff is very helpful. It’s well worth the drive from Portland.” — b a r b a r a ko c h e va r

A load of peaches at Detering Orchards in Harrisburg, Oregon.

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“My family loves Apple Annie’s Orchard in Willcox, Arizona. They have a wide variety of apples, plus breakfast and lunch to purchase on the weekends. If you go in late summer or early fall, you may be lucky enough to find Asian pears still available to pick. They also have a pumpkin patch nearby to visit in the fall, so you can get your apples and pumpkins

in one trip, and there are vegetable gardens where you can pick your own or buy them freshly harvested. The bakery tempts you to take home a fresh-baked pie and other goodies, or buy a slice to enjoy there. The orchard also sells a variety of bottled and jarred products such as jams and syrups made from their produce. Best of all, Willcox is at a somewhat higher elevation than much of southern Arizona, so it’s always a bit cooler there.” — m a ry d u r h a m - p f l i b s e n

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Picking a pumpkin at Mortimer Farms in Dewey, Arizona.

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Johnson’s Beach is a popular summer destination for sunbathing, paddling, and swimming.

Road-tripping along Sonoma County’s Russian River ↘ Explore the region’s small hamlets and roadhouses, each with its own beachtown vibe and plot of umbrella-studded sandy beach.

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Synonymous with old-fashioned summer fun, the stretch of Sonoma County’s Russian River from the towns of Rio Nido to Jenner offers prime recreation opportunities. Once overrun by the logging industry, this string of towns has worked tirelessly to be rebranded as tourist destinations, and those efforts are noticed around every bend of the winding waterway. What activities you embark on first depends on the direction of your approach. Coming from Santa Rosa, take River Road west and stop at Burke’s Canoe Trips, which offers rentals and a 10-mile self-guided paddle to explore the river on water. If Healdsburg is your starting point, hop on Westside Road to roll along lush hillsides terraced with vine-

yards—maybe stopping at one or two—before joining River Road to embark on your dreamy river retreat.

Rio Nido Until recently the least developed of the river towns, Rio Nido is experiencing a resurgence with the opening of the Farmhand, a gourmet deli and artisanal market serving items such as Portobello mushroom panini. Dine on the deck overlooking the river or take lunch to go in one of their gourmet picnic boxes. Lively Stumptown Brewery and Grill next door hides a secret—a spacious deck overlooking the river and a private beach where diners feast on slow-smoked brisket and pulled pork straight off the outdoor grill.

VISIT CALIFORNIA / PLACES WE SWIM

SWEET STOPS

A path through the redwoods at Armstrong Woods State Natural Reserve.

Guerneville The majority of overnight visitors base their stay in LGBTQ-friendly Guerneville, the biggest town on the river, where options include retro-chic motels, Airstream resort Autocamp, and Dawn Ranch, an expansive summer camp–style property with luxe cottages and chalets around a central lodge. Spend the day soaking up the sun at Johnson’s Beach, a classic river spot—rent kayaks, pedal boats, and even beach chairs and umbrellas. To satisfy your culinary tooth, book a table at Boon Eat + Drink, which put Guerneville on the foodie map with farm-to-table fare such as arugula and shaved fennel salad and Moroccan chicken, plus plenty of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options. Chef Crista Luedtke, who also owns the chic boutique Boon Hotel & Spa, opened BROT down the street in 2019, serving bratwurst and other German beer hall fare.

Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve The dense forests of redwood and oak extending north from the Russia River were held sacred by the native Pomo tribe, who originally inhabited the region before the logging trade drew timber barons north to the area.

While much of the area was destroyed, Colonel James Boydston Armstrong, and later his descendants, protected a spectacular grove of massive redwoods just north of Guerneville—a rival for popular Muir Woods without the reservations. Walk the 1-mile round-trip Pioneer

TOP: ROBERTHARDING / ALAMY BOTTOM: GREG CEO STUDIOS

Luxe cottages at Dawn Ranch in Guerneville.

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ON THE ROAD Nature Trail to see the 310-foot-tall Parson Jones tree and the 1,400-yearold Armstrong tree, then continue on a short distance to a shady picnic area.

The General Store is just one of the vintage clapboard buildings in Duncans Mills.

Monte Rio West from Guerneville, River Road becomes Highway 116, though locals continue to call it River Road until it joins the sea at Jenner. Set up for a day on the river at Monte Rio Community Beach, one of the largest and most visited in the area, featuring a concession stand and kayak rentals. Or take a break from the water at Northwood Golf Club, a popular stop for fans of the sport, as well as for the diners who flock to recently reimagined Northwood Bistro with its expansive patio under the redwoods, hearty portions of steak and prime rib, and live music on weekends.

If this cluster of 18th-century buildings looks straight out of the Old

West, that’s because it is. Originally the company town for the timber business of the same name, the clapboard buildings now house galleries

Jenner is known for scenic views of the Pacific Ocean, like this one overlooking Goat Rock.

and boutiques, a collection of restored rail cars, and Cape Fear restaurant, popular for its New Orleans-inspired weekend brunch, clam chowder, and chef ’s dinner specials such as a hearty beef bourguignon. Across Highway 116, Gold Coast Coffee and Bakery serves up rich bear claws, croissants, and cinnamon rolls with occasional live music on the sunny back patio.

Jenner Ocean vistas, kayaking in the river mouth, and Goat Rock Beach with its sea lion nursery are the prime attractions in Jenner. Before heading out, visit Café Aquatica for homemade pastries and organic coffee, served on a waterfront deck with one of the best views on the river and live music on weekends. To refuel after a day of outdoor fun, head to River’s End Restaurant to cap off time well spent on the river with cocktails and fine dining backlit by stunning sunset views. — m e l a n i e h a i k e n 28

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ON THE ROAD

WEEKENDER

Kalispell, Mont.

↘ For a taste of the Old West—and an easy gateway to Glacier National Park—head to northwest Montana to spend a weekend in the mountains. p h o to g r a p h y by a n d r e w g e i g e r

A 10-minute drive from downtown Kalispell, Flathead Lake is a popular destination for sailing, kayaking, and fishing.

Laid-back vibes and outdoor fun await you in Kalispell, a town frozen in time, tucked between Montana’s Swan and Salish mountain ranges. Here, you can feel at home spending a morning casting your line for rainbow trout, then relaxing with a burger and brew or a craft cocktail after a tour of a perfectly preserved historic mansion or art gallery. Late spring and early summer form a particularly wonderful stretch, when you can take in wildflowers and spot big game from uncrowded roads and trails. 30

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Things to do In May, Glacier National Park will likely still have snowy peaks and rain showers, but that means lighter crowds within its one million acres of wilderness. Look for baby animals and wildflowers, and plan to hike at lower elevations to avoid snow. Going-to-the-Sun Road opens to full cross-park travel in mid to late June (weather permitting); before then, Camas Road should be open, with incredible views along the way. ●

June brings summer programs and events to the area, as well: Guided day hikes by the Glacier Institute feature experts on topics such as wildflowers, birding, and geology. The Native America Speaks program offers an opportunity to learn about history and culture from Blackfeet, Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Oreille tribal members. Held at several locations in and near the park each summer, it is the longest-running Native speaker series in the national park system.

The new, accessible Kalispell Parkline Trail runs through historic downtown, ●

an easy meander. Then it connects to the rail-to-trail Great Northern Rail Trail, with 22 miles of paved multi-use path, for those who want to continue onward. Get a bird’s-eye view of the entire Flathead Valley and surrounding mountains at one of several overlooks in Lone Pine State Park, which also has a wonderful visitor center with wildlife walk-through displays.

Whitefish Mountain Resort keeps its ski runs open for mountain bikers during the summer. middle: Conrad Mansion Museum. bottom: Bratwurst with an apple and walnut side salad and onion rings at Big Mountain Ciderworks.

One of the largest natural freshwater lakes west of the Mississippi, at nearly 200 square miles, Flathead Lake is only a 10-minute drive from downtown Kalispell. Enjoy the mountain views as you paddle through glacial waters, fish for massive trout, or take a boat ride to Wild Horse Island. Keep your eyes open for the remaining handful of its namesake horses, as well as other wildlife such as bears, bighorn sheep, and mule deer. ●

The popular skiing spread Whitefish Mountain Resort keeps its slopes open ●

in summer for adventure seekers. Take the Scenic Lift ride up the hill and hike 3.8 miles from the summit to the village of Whitefish on the Danny On Memorial Trail, or soar through the trees on Montana’s longest zip line tour. Kids will love the alpine slides and adventure course. ●

For the less outdoor-inclined, the

Conrad Mansion Museum displays a

slice of life from one of Kalispell’s founding families. Every detail in the 26-room house is lovingly restored, from the woodwork to the rotating collection of period clothing, toys, and tools, plus some 90 percent of the original furnishings and architecture. Call ahead for periodic special tours. , housed in a former Carnegie library, is a ● The Hockaday Museum of Art

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don’t miss for art lovers, and the only art museum between Spokane and Missoula. Featuring regional art and a permanent collection that includes American Indian beadwork and Western-themed landscapes, the community-oriented space also has a special Members Salon for local art as well as a monthly Senior Tour and Tea Day on second Fridays.

Where to eat

Huckleberry preserves, jellies, and syrups at the Huckleberry Patch. below: Wares on display at Sassafras, an artist collective with a bakery in the back.

Fuel up for morning road trips at the Spot, Kalispell’s unique donut drive-thru. Choose from creations like Boston cream, sticky caramel and pecan, or peanut butter glazed with grape jelly filling, as well as a range of breakfast sandwiches on homemade biscuits or bagels. Protip: Aim to arrive before 9:30 a.m. for the best selection. ●

For a hearty dinner of smoked prime rib or bison rib-eye accompanied by house-made popovers, head to Mercantile Steak. Housed in a beautifully refurbished provisions store built in1892, it still has the original mobile stock ladder and its track against one wall. Attached to the back of the steakhouse is the intimate, downright cool KM Bar, which prepares pre-Prohibition era cocktails behind the bar. Pair local brews with a classic cheddar burger and duck-fat fries or seasonal small plates with a Vesper martini. ●

Where to shop Downtown arts and crafts galleries dot Main Street. Honey Home & Design is stocked with a great mix of vintage and new housewares such as hand-shaped beeswax bowls and candles, table decor, and woolens. Sassafras, a lively artist cooperative filled with stalls hawking jewelry, artwork, and homemade cards, has a sweet little bakery tucked in the back, selling macarons and cakes, which is not to be missed. True Water Fly ●

is located on the northwest side of town in a rustic-chic tap house made from reclaimed wood. Take a seat inside the pole barn or on the shaded patio overlooking the orchards. Try the apple and walnut salad alongside a cider blend from one of the 16 taps— many are made from its estate-grown heirloom pears and heritage and dessert apples. ● Big Mountain Ciderworks

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Shop is the place to stop before head-

ing out to cast a line: It offers waterproof gear and rods, plus guided trips at a boutique lodge run by the same family, conveniently adjacent to the shop. On the way to Glacier National Park, stop in Hungry Horse for the Huckleberry Patch, a small-town favorite with candy, ice cream, pastries, and much more, featuring wild huckleberries and Flathead Valley cherries, two of the region’s specialties. — j e n n i f e r b u r n s b r i g h t

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Road-trip through

Southcentral

Alaska

With summer light that stretches on and on, you can pack a lot of life into a weeklong road trip around the Kenai Peninsula. by j e n n a s c h n u e r

The boardwalk at Eagle River Nature Center in Anchorage. 34

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JODYO.PHOTOS

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et Inl ok

right: The road trip starts at Anchorage and heads down the Kenai Peninsula to coastal towns Seward and Homer. below: A niçoise salad with an Alaska twist at Crush Bistro and Wine Bar.

Founded in 1914 as a railroad town, Alaska’s largest city (population 288,121) is surrounded by the Chugach Mountains and Cook Inlet. Outdoor opportunities abound in the city, so pick up your rental car early for your in-town time—the mountain views can wait a few hours. A morning spent at the Alaska Native Heritage Center grounds visitors with an understanding of the Indigenous cultures that have lived here for thousands of years. Stand in front of the silver façade of the Anchorage Museum and there’s no doubting whose land you’re on. Giant letters proclaim this is dena’ina ełnena (This is Dena’ina land). Inside, the Art of the North galleries showcase the many ways the land here has inspired visual artists from around the world. The municipality of Anchorage extends north to Eagle

Anchorage

ROY NEESE; MAP: MONICA EWING JENSEN; PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ASHLEY HEIMBIGNER; STEVE BOWER / SHUTTERSTOCK; S DEWITT / SHUTTERSTOCK; STEVE BOICE / SHUTTERSTOCK; PENNY RICHARD / SHUTTERSTOCK; GALYNA ANDRUSHKO / SHUTTERSTOCK; AMANDA AHN / ALAMY.

t doesn’t take long for Alaska’s extra-long summer days to throw off your sense of time. A morning trying to catch a king salmon in Ship Creek in Anchorage tumbles into a late afternoon hike in the Chugach Mountains, and before you know it, it’s 9 p.m. and you haven’t even thought about dinner yet. That’s OK. You’re living like a local. On summer solstice, June 21, Anchorage clocks 22 hours of daylight: Make good use of all that light on a road trip that starts in the state’s biggest city, Anchorage, and heads down the Kenai Peninsula to coastal towns Seward and Homer. Along the way, check off all of the must-sees on your Alaska list—glaciers, moose, and whales—and plenty more that you weren’t expecting.

HOMER

Eagle River

ANCHORAGE Chugach State Park Tur n

ain

Potter Marsh Arm

GIRDWOOD

Hope

Portage Glacier

Kenai Lake Exit Glacier

SEWARD

Kenai Fjords National Park

Spire Cove

13 miles A A A | VIA

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY ALYESKA RESORT; JAY YUAN / SHUTTERSTOCK; KEN GRAHAM PHOTOGRAPHY / VISIT ANCHORAGE

above, left: Walk 2,500 feet above the valley floor on the new Veilbreakers Skybridges tour at Alyeska Resort. above, right: More than 100 species of migratory birds make Potter Marsh their summer home. left: Aerial view of Anchorage, Alaska.

River, and a visit makes a perfect afternoon trip for a first hike. Stop for tacos at El Pastor before continuing on to the Eagle River Nature Center. Inside the log cabin, get the lowdown on safety around Alaska’s wildlife: From moose to bears to porcupines and beyond, they’re all here (though, when it comes to wild animals, there are no guarantees that you’ll see the animal of your dreams). Back in town, celebrate the midnight sun with a wine flight and small plates—the crispy polenta never fails—at Crush. Though an Alaskan winter offers plenty of benefits, sunlight is most certainly not one of them. Summer solstice celebrations go big (even though the next day starts to tip back toward winter). On June 17, the Downtown Summer Solstice Festival loads the streets with artists, musicians, and a tasty dose of the city’s ever-growing food vendor scene. You can celebrate like a local by joining in the Slam’n Salm’n Derby on Ship Creek (June 9–17). Catch the biggest king salmon and you’ll go home with fish and serious dough.

Anchorage to Girdwood (39 MILES)

You’re in good company for the first stretch of the drive, as Turnagain Arm is always in view. Whether at full tide—and possibly with surfers taking on the bore tide—or low tide, when eagles hang out on the mudflats to scan for a meal, the Arm is one long photo op. The first must-stop for nature buffs— especially birders—and photogs alike comes just after leaving Anchorage. Potter Marsh is the summer home of more than 100 kinds of migratory birds. The swans are always the first to arrive in the spring (when the water is still partially frozen) but soon after, ducks aplenty, grebes, and red-winged blackbirds will join them. Stroll the boardwalk for the best viewing spots. After Potter Marsh, most of the pull-offs on the highway are easier to access during the drive south, so stop as much as you would like. No need to rush. You have hours to go before the ever-so-brief twilight hours even think about sifting in. Watch the water for beluga whales getting their fill of salmon.

Girdwood The ski town of Girdwood doesn’t require snow to offer up plenty of to-dos for visitors. For a town of around 2,500 fulltime residents, Girdwood offers serious variety on both the recreation and the dining fronts. If heights are your thing, consider the brand-new Veil Breaker Skybridges tour that lets you go for a walk 2,500 feet above the valley floor. Or keep your feet on the ground on one of Girdwood’s many hiking trails. If you’re feeling like a self-care experience that day, head to Alyeska Resort and go nature bathing in style at the A A A | VIA

hotel’s Nordic Spa, with its hot and cold outdoor soaking tubs. Midnight hikes and a dance party at Alyeska Resort are the town’s go-to solstice events, but the biggest celebration of summer takes place a few weeks later. The Girdwood Forest Fair, now in its 48th year, runs July 7–9. Plenty of art, music, and food—including the famed Talkeetna Spinach Bread truck—await.

Girdwood to Seward (89.6 MILES)

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Continuing on, it’s time for a (relatively) upclose look at a glacier. Twelve miles after leaving Girdwood, make a left on Portage Glacier Road. Scan for moose at the aptly named Moose Flats Wetland. (They like to cool off there on warmer summer days.) Park at the Begich Boggs Visitor Center to get the lowdown on the 10-storytall Portage Glacier before boarding the mv Ptarmigan for a one-hour tour of Portage Lake and the glacier. Reservations are recommended. From the visitor center, head back to the Seward Highway. This is where you leave the water behind for a while, as the highway cuts through Turnagain Pass. Prepare to gawk: There will be mountains all around as well as some of Alaska’s brilliant wildflowers. Watch for the bright pink fireweed blooms or pale lavender flowers that climb stalks of lupine. At Tern Lake, keep left and continue onto State Highway 9 until you reach Seward.

Seward Located on Resurrection Bay and close to both the land and water sections of Kenai Fjords National Park, Seward (population 2,600) is

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Seward to Homer (169 MILES)

Double back on Highway 9 for 36 miles until you reach Tern Lake. Then follow signs for the Sterling Highway (also, somewhat confusingly, called Highway 1) to Homer. For the next 130 miles, you’ll get to see how important fishing and the outdoors are to Alaska. Outfitters along the way advertise salmon or halibut fishing trips, and hiking trailheads pepper the peninsula. Like whitewater rafting? You can do that too. You’ll

COURTESY ALASKA SEALIFE CENTER; OPPOSITE: LISAANNPIX / SHUTTERSTOCK

above: A spectacled eider at the Alaska SeaLife Center in Seward. opposite: Prefer to see an Alaska glacier by land? Drive to Exit Glacier and hike right up to it.

another tiny town with an oversize to-do list for visitors. Book two nights at a local hotel, cabin, or campground to give yourself enough time for local adventures. No matter where you stay, start your mornings at Resurrect Art, a combo coffeehouse and art gallery. Whether you venture by sea or by land, it’s worth calling ahead to book day trips out of Seward, as they fill up. From the small boat harbor, consider a daylong cruise into Kenai Fjords that will have your head spinning over (fingers crossed) sightings of seals, whales, and puffins. Or paddle the waters of Aialik Bay with a Liquid Adventures guide, who will help you navigate around two of the area’s glaciers. Listen for the cracking of the glaciers as they calve. If you’re more of a landlubber, drive 12 miles out of town to Exit Glacier, the only part of the national park accessible by road. Hardier hikers will want to take on the Harding Icefield trail, though there’s still plenty to see on the much friendlier Exit Glacier trail, which starts at the nature center. For a deep dive into the area’s water-loving wildlife (a must if you’re traveling with kids), visit the Alaska SeaLife Center. Over the last few years, Seward has gained serious restaurant cred, and the town offers lots of options to refuel. Don’t miss the newly renovated Cookery—always start with the local fresh oysters—or the Flamingo Lounge, a modern, swanky take on a popular spot from the 1950s. Seward’s biggest weekend of the year is July 4. People pack in to watch or, if they’re truly bold, compete in the 3.1-mile up and down Mount Marathon. Competitors don’t always manage to stay on their feet on the way down. Tumbles happen—big tumbles. But it’s always a good time.

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left: Seward’s picturesque harbor is home to gelleries, shops, and more than 30 public murals. below, right: Open in the summer, the Seaview has halibut and chips on the menu, with live music on the weekends. bottom, right: Deep sea halibut fishing with Rainbow Tours in Homer. below, left: Hike to the Harding Icefield in Kenai Fjords National Park.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: PAUL BRADY / ALAMY; COURTESY TRAVEL ALASKA / JOVELL RENNIE; MADELEINE JETTRE / ALAMY ; DESIGN PICS INC / ALAMY

also experience the wide range of towns Kenai Peninsula residents call home. Cooper Landing has fewer than 500 year-round residents, but come summer, it looks far busier than that. The highway drops to two lanes along the super curvy section that passes right through the town. Along the way, pull over for photos of brilliantly blue Kenai Lake. Just south of town, stop for an easy hike on the Russian River Falls trail. The 4.8-mile trail is pretty flat, and the turnaround is at the falls, where you can watch salmon jumping as they make their way up the river. Just shy of 50 miles later, turn onto the Kenai Spur Highway where you’ll drive another 11 miles to Old Town Kenai. Set against a bluebird sky and the water, Old Town’s historic cabins and the Russian Orthodox church with its robin’s-egg blue accents are stunning. Once you’re on the road again, make Soldotna your next stop. Get lunch at Kenai River Brewing, where you can balance out the poutine—hand-cut fries dressed up in beer gravy and cheese curds—with the spinach salad. Once you reach Kasilof, the view to your right is (mostly) water once again. Drive along Cook Inlet for the last 62 miles. At Anchor Point, the road starts to curl to the left, and soon after, the elevation drops. Watch for the halibut fishing capital of the world sign. You’ve arrived at Homer (population 5,700).

Homer Driving into Homer, well known for fishing, food, and art, it’s easy to see why artists are so inspired by its location. Four volcanoes show their faces across the Cook Inlet. The easiest to recognize is Mount Augustine, a cone-shaped peak that sits 70 miles from town. Augustine’s neighboring volcanoes include Iliamna and Redoubt. Stare out across the water on a visit to Bishop’s Beach (maybe with a cookie or two from Two Sisters Bakery in hand). The rock and sand beach changes constantly with the tides and weather, giving visitors good reason to return again and again. (It’s also a favorite spot for locals to walk their dogs, so pup lovers will find an extra bit of enjoyment there.) But don’t forget about that “halibut fishing capital” title. Book a day trip with North Country Halibut Charters and try to hook a

halibut or three, and salmon too. If you do score a catch, your guide can filet the fish for you. But fishing isn’t the only on-water activity out of Homer. Get more kayaking miles on your arms with a guided trip through True North Kayak. Keep your eyes peeled while out on the water for curious otters and seals. Back in town, leave plenty of time to explore the art galleries that showcase work by Alaska’s huge talent pool of artists. If you have time for just one, make it the Bunnell Street Arts Center, which also hosts music events and lectures. Homer’s Solstice Festival kicks off on June 21 with live music, a skills competition to test boat deckhands, and plenty of food trucks to choose from.

Homer to Anchorage (230 MILES)

Nobody would blame you if you were on Alaska overload by this point. If that’s where you’ve landed (or you have a plane to catch), head north. You will, of course, need to eat along the way. Stop at the Burger Bus in Kenai for fried halibut and chips. (Look for the bus that is clearly not going anywhere.) If you prefer a sit-down meal, stop at Two Brother’s (sic) Roadhouse in Cooper Landing for some seriously sturdy BBQ sandwiches. If you have the time and attention span to take in one more stellar tiny town after lunch, continue north and make a left onto Hope Highway. Seventeen winding miles later, follow the signs to the Seaview Cafe & Bar. The town of Hope, with a year-round population that hovers around 200 people, sits on Turnagain Arm. Park near the Seaview, put on your rubber boots (it can be pretty muddy), and walk out to the water. On a bluebird day, it’s one of the best views of the Chugach Mountains across the water. On a cloudy day, it all looks moodier but just as beautiful. Hope being the quirky little place it is, there’s a chance you’ll even see somebody walk by with their pet goat.● jenna schnuer is an Anchorage-based writer who moved to Alaska nine years ago for what was going to be a year—and never left. Her work appears in publications including the New York Times, Fortune, and National Geographic.

Keep in mind Southcentral Alaska doesn’t offer up any alternate routes when it comes to the drive between Anchorage and Homer. Delays are inevitable. It helps to have a sense of humor, some flexibility in planning, and, yes, extra snacks and water for the drive. Maybe download some podcasts, too. Summer isn’t just the high season for tourism in Alaska, it’s also the only time the state’s road crews can get to work. The main road for your Southcentral adventure—the Seward Highway (aka AK-1), just two lanes in some stretches—loads up with summer travelers in rented RVs, motorcyclists, commuters, trucks hauling boats, and more. For up-todate information about Alaska’s roads, check 511.alaska.gov.

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extraordinary

OUTDOOR

MUSIC EXPERIENCES

in the West

These festivals and venues offer aural and visual delights. The Santa Fe Opera is known for its distinctive sweeping roof and open-air design.

ROBERT GODWIN

by d e r k r i c h a r d s o n a n d w h i t n e y p h a n e u f

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he open-air music festival has become a staple of modern life, both as an annual ritual, such as the Monterey Jazz Festival, and as an epic pilgrimage, like Monterey Pop and Woodstock. While the music—whether jazz, classical, country, rock, or Americana—remains the main draw for any warm-weather festivals throughout the West, the fests highlighted here are distinguished by the location. From alpine forests, sprawling prairies, and majestic canyons to magnificent lakes and densely wooded urban parks, these settings provide full-immersion experiences: The sounds of symphonies, electric guitars, acoustic fiddles, and more are highlighted by the natural backdrop. Plan a road trip to these festivities in gorgeous locations and expand your horizons while sitting with companions, family, and thousands of friends by circumstance, all kin in the love of music and nature.

Stern Grove Festival

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Tucked into a southwestern corner of San Francisco’s Sunset District, idyllic Sigmund Stern Grove is a natural treasure well known to Bay Area residents but easily missed by visitors. The grove’s free (with advance reservation) Sunday afternoon concerts, weekly from midJune to mid-August, are a great excuse to gather a group for a picnic in the natural amphitheater. Leashed service animals are also welcome, but only in the West Meadow seating area. Walk into Stern Grove and the scent of eucalyptus and conifers fills the air, as the forest gives way to a bowl-like topography where concertgoers can settle onto a spacious lawn, or sit on the hillside under the trees. Low-profile lawn chairs are permitted. Each concert draws as many as 10,000 people with first come, first served seating and parking— there’s no lot, only neighborhood spots—so it’s best to arrive early. This historical landmark dates back to 1931, when Rosalie Meyer Stern purchased the land to establish a memorial to her late husband. By 1938, Stern, in cooperation with the city, had started to bring summer concerts to the site. From its early emphasis on classical music, the festival, now in its 86th season, has expanded into an unpredictably eclectic event. Highlights of the 2023 lineup include Patti Smith, Lyle Lovett, the Flaming Lips, Neko Case, the Indigo Girls, and Buddy Guy. — d . r .

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SAN FR ANCISCO

california

High Sierra Music Festival QUINCY, CALIFORNIA

In the 30 years since its founding in Leland Meadows, the High Sierra Music Festival has evolved into much more than an annual gathering for unreconstructed Deadheads and neo-hippies. Relocated permanently in 2000 to the logging town of Quincy, 80 miles northwest of Reno, the summer festival still features such jam-band and crunchy favorites as Leftover Salmon and the String Cheese Incident. Ecological awareness, healthy food, grassroots crafts, late-night jam sessions, and hula-hoops do figure prominently in the celebratory atmosphere. But neither tie-dye nor a vintage Volkswagen is required to partake of the positive vibes and enjoy the eclectic array of music on stages scattered around the fairgrounds. You’ll find mainstream rock, soul, folk, jazz, and bluegrass, too; past performers have included Steve Winwood, My Morning Jacket, Robert Plant, Mavis Staples, Ben Harper, James McMurtry, Birds of Chicago, Bill Frisell, Béla Fleck, Del McCoury, and Gillian Welch. The 2023 lineup features Jason Isbell and the 400 Unit, Thievery Corporation, the Del McCoury Band, and the Infamous Stringdusters. The festival’s location is a perfect launching point to explore the nearby natural marvels of the lightly traveled Lost Sierra, from the Feather River and the vast Sierra Valley to the spectacular Lakes Basin Recreation Area, a wonderland of easily accessible lakes and ponds and some of the best hiking in the Sierra. First come, first served tent camping is included with the purchase of a festival pass, RVs are welcome (with a vehicle pass), and there are a few nearby motels, but book ahead, as they fill up fast. — d . r .

The eclectic lineup at the High Sierra Music Festival spans everything from folk and mainstream rock to jazz and bluegrass.

Hardly Strictly Bluegrass

Hardly Strictly Bluegrass draws big crowds to San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park.

TOP: MICHAEL PEGRAM; BOTTOM: EDDIE-HERNANDEZ.COM / SHUTTERSTOCK

SAN FR ANCISCO

When the late venture capitalist, philanthropist, and old-time-music enthusiast Warren Hellman launched this now-legendary free event in 2001, he called it “Strictly Bluegrass.” Three years later, as the programming grew more eclectic, he and his team added the “Hardly.” Although traditional bluegrass, folk, and country can be heard on one or more of the six stages throughout the weekend, and contemporary Americana provides a sturdy backbone, hardly a musical genre goes unrepresented. You’ll hear such sundry artists as Judy Collins, MC Hammer, Mavis Staples, Robert Plant, or Kronos Quartet as you ramble around a beautiful stretch of Golden Gate Park’s meadows, glades, glens, and hollows. Hazel Dickens and Guy Clark were mainstays at Hardly Strictly Bluegrass until their dying days. But young alternative acts—Conor Oberst, the Milk Carton Kids, Joan Shelley—have varied the mix over the years. Outlaw country rocker Steve Earle typically headlines on Saturdays, Emmylou Harris closes the festival every year, and Buddy Miller, Dave Alvin, Del McCoury, Nick Lowe, the Mekons, and the Flatlanders have been regulars. The crowds can get thick (as many as 750,000 over the three days), and transportation and parking can be tricky if you don’t get there early. But the sublime location, the usually gorgeous fall weather, fresh ocean breezes, the golden dusk, and the amiable vibe make Hardly Strictly one of the world’s great outdoor festivals. — d . r . A A A | VIA

Domo, a massive rock sculpture, hosts classical music performances at Tippet Rise Art Center.

Tippet Rise Art Center Set against the backdrop of South Central Montana’s Beartooth Mountains and the rolling hills of the Stillwater Valley, Tippet Rise Art Center combines classical music and large-scale sculpture for an experience like no other. Imagine listening to Rachmaninoff, John Cage, or Wayne Shorter under a 98-foot-long, 16-foot-tall cave-like structure that looks like something out of Dune, and you’re beginning to get the picture. Classical music lovers and philanthropists Cathy and Peter Halstead took over the 12,000-acre working ranch—roughly two hours from Bozeman—in 2010 and spent six years transforming it into an arts center that in the summer welcomes classical music fans, art lovers, hikers, and bikers. They host music in multiple incredible venues, including the aforementioned outdoor sculpture, the Domo, and the Olivier Music Barn, a minimalist yet rustic-looking concert hall engineered for acoustically pristine sound by the renowned Arup Group. Leave time for the Sculpture Van Tour to see six of the twelve massive sculptures spread across the property, which include work by Alexander Calder and Mark di Suvero. Under the direction of artistic advisor Pedja Muzijevic, the 2023 season includes six world premieres of compositions from the Tippet Rise Commissions series, including a piece by Ukraine’s leading living composer, Valentyn Silvestrov, Five Bagatelles for Solo Piano (2020). As part of the Wander series, two composers will respond to Mark di Suvero’s Tippet Rise sculptures Beethoven’s Quartet and Proverb. Concert tickets are offered through a lottery on tippetrise.org and sold for $10 each. — w . s . p .

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FISHTAIL , MONTANA

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n e va d a The 10 stages at the Electric Daisy Carnival feature high-tech light displays, pyrotechnics, and electronic music acts.

L AS VEGAS

Most people don’t think of the Las Vegas Motor Speedway as a natural wonder, and with the exception of its sprawling views of Mount Charleston, it’s not—but when the Electric Daisy Carnival (EDC) takes over each May, the place completely transforms. The largest electronic music festival in the United States, EDC draws hundreds of thousands of fans over the course of its three days to a hypnotic spectacle of pulsing lights, lasers, fireworks, pyrotechnics, large-scale sculptures, more than a dozen carnival rides, and nine stages, plus art cars playing every genre of electronic music imaginable. Festival-goers call it the “Electric Sky,” a dome of color, light, and sound best experienced from the speedway’s bleachers. EDC started in 1997 as a warehouse party in

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Los Angeles and grew steadily, moving to Las Vegas in 2011. The 2023 lineup features more than 230 acts, including Tiësto, David Guetta, Kaskade, Chris Lake, Kaytranada, Duke Dumont, Zedd, Marshmello, and Alison Wonderland. But if you don’t know any of these DJs, you’ll still have a blast at EDC, where most stages cater to a specific genre—from trance to house to heavy bass—and it’s easy to wander around till you find a style that speaks to you. In the days leading up the festival, EDC takes over Vegas with more than 40 events at clubs and pool parties. Hotels fill up fast, so it’s wise to book early. EDC offers shuttle passes to get you doorto-door without driving, but parking at the speedway is also available at a cost. On-site camping is another option, ticketed separately, though the attendees are known to keep the party going all night, so light sleepers beware. — w . s . p . ADI NAYEV

Electric Daisy Carnival

The Gorge Amphitheatre

Inaugurated 40 years ago to bring summer pleasures to the local and regional residents of northern Idaho, the Festival at Sandpoint draws 4,000 people daily to Memorial Field on the shore of 43-mile-long Lake Pend Oreille. About an hourand-a-half drive from Spokane, Washington, Sandpoint offers views of the Selkirk and Cabinet Mountains and a bounty of outdoor recreational activities—walking, biking, hiking, and swimming, as well as boating and fishing on the lake, Idaho’s largest and deepest. Past headliners have included Jackson Browne, Willie Nelson, ZZ Top, Kool & the Gang, Wilco, the Indigo Girls, Rickie Lee Jones, Counting Crows, and Ladysmith Black Mambazo. In 2023, the nonprofit music festival will present 11 nights of music, featuring Gary Clark Jr., the String Cheese Incident, REO Speedwagon, Michael Franti & Spearhead, Ashley McBryde, and Train. Season passes usually sell out in January, but single general admission tickets are available at festivalatsandpoint.com. While more than a dozen food vendors and two full bars serve refreshments, attendees are welcome to bring their own. — d . r .

Few venues can compete with the embedded-innature Gorge Amphitheatre for its view into the rugged distance. A three-hour drive from Seattle or a two-hour drive from Spokane brings you to the site, a high desert expanse overlooking the Columbia River as it winds through the Columbia Gorge canyon. In the distance rise the foothills of the Cascade Range. The amphitheater opened in 1986 as the 3,000-seat Champs de Brionne Music Theatre, named for the owners’ adjacent winery. Purchased and expanded by MCA Concerts Northwest and then Live Nation, the Gorge now seats 27,500. The Gorge hosts dozens of big-name rock, country, and electronic acts during the summer season— Santana, Phish, Journey, Joni Mitchell, Brad Paisley, Chris Stapleton, Above and Beyond—as well as festivals including Beyond Wonderland, Watershed Country Music Festival, and Bass Canyon. On-site camping, ticked separately, is available for festivals and select multiday concert runs. — d . r .

RACHEAL BAKER

SANDPOINT, IDAHO

QUINCY, WASHINGTON

i d a h o + wa s h i n gto n

Festival at Sandpoint

Northern Idaho’s Festival at Sandpoint will feature 11 nights of live music on the shore of Lake Pend Oreille.

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oregon

Pickathon

HAPPY VALLEY, OREG ON

A quick 16 miles southeast of Portland, another world awaits at the Pendarvis Farm in tranquil Happy Valley, the site of the annual Pickathon festival. Pickathon began as a small indie roots festival in 1999, but the past two decades have seen it expand into multiple musical genres, as divergent as Americana folk, hip-hop, and doom metal. The festival prides itself on featuring emerging artists before they break into the mainstream and offers an intimate viewing experience, with attendance capped far below the site’s capacity. Emphasizing its connection to nature, Pickathon augments the summer beauty of the wooded Pendarvis Farm with site-specific art and magical lighting to create roughly a dozen themed neighborhoods. Some four dozen acts perform over the course of four days, with DJs spinning vinyl in between to sustain the musical momentum. Prior Pickathons have featured Sturgill Simpson, Billy Strings, Margo Price, Black Pumas, Phil Lesh, and Nathaniel Rateliff. The 2023 lineup includes soul and R&B icon Lee Fields, Zambian psych rockers W.I.T.C.H., indie-glam trio Dehd, and roots duo Watchhouse. Festival passes include free walk-in camping, but daily passes are sold as well, with conventional accommodations available in nearby Clackamas and southeast Portland. — d . r .

Four dozen acts perform over the course of four days at Pickathon.

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Cathedral Park Jazz Festival PORTL AND

The most famous bridge in jazz lore is the Williamsburg in New York City, which crosses the East River between Brooklyn and Manhattan. For nearly a year and a half, from 1959 into 1961, tenor saxophonist Sonny Rollins practiced on the bridge daily. The St. Johns Bridge in Portland has yet to achieve comparable iconic status in music history, but fans who take their jazz seriously in the Northwest know it well as the symbol and backdrop of the Cathedral Park Jazz Festival. The bridge, which opened in 1931 (at the time the longest suspension bridge west of the Mississippi), gracefully spans the Willamette River and connects

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Northwest Portland with the Cathedral Park neighborhood, where the festival takes place. The neighborhood got its name from the cathedral-like Gothic arches that support the elevated roadway. Now in its 43rd year, the free, threeday summer festival is volunteer run and presented by the Jazz Society of Oregon. The seating on the rolling lawns affords stirring views of the river and the towering span. Visitors from outside the area will discover a lovely hidden corner of Portland and be introduced to a generous sampling of regional talent. While blues and R&B figure in the mix, jazz is the main attraction, and the festival showcases such local stars as saxophonist Devin Phillips, drummer Mel Brown, organist Louis “King Louie” Pain, and guitarist Dan Faehnle. — d . r .

The famed Santa Fe Opera has no walls, offering panoramic views.

Santa Fe Opera

SANTA FE , NEW ME XICO

Given the modern open-air architecture, the moon rising over the Sangre de Cristo and Jemez mountain ranges, and the esteemed performers onstage, it’s hard to know where to look when you’re at the Santa Fe Opera. Seven miles south of downtown, the famed opera house has no walls, offering panoramic views while you listen to one of the best opera companies in the United States. It all started with a man and a dream, when founder John O. Crosby fell in love with the area and purchased 76 acres in 1956 to develop an opera house showcasing American singers. It kicked off its first season in summer 1957 with a performance of Puccini’s Madama Butterfly to nearly 500 attendees. The theater has been rebuilt twice since then, adding a partially open roof in 1968 and more seating, today accommodating 2,126. Arrive early to experience everything the campus has to offer, including pre-show dinners; tailgating (picnics can be ordered in advance); free prelude talks; multiple bars featuring wine, cocktails, and coffee drinks; and a large gift shop. The 2023 season, its 66th, will feature Puccini’s Tosca, Wagner’s The Flying Dutchman, Debussy’s Pelléas et Mélisande, Dvořák’s Rusalka, and Monteverdi’s Orfeo. If opera is not your thing, you can occasionally catch other genres. In fall 2023, the opera house is scheduled to host blues icon Bonnie Raitt, indie pop duo Sylvan Esso, and Beninese-French singer-songwriter Angélique Kidjo.

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LEFT: BILL PURCELL; RIGHT: CURTIS BROWN / SANTA FE OPERA

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—w.s.p.

derk richardson is a freelance writer covering music, food, and travel. His writing has appeared in AFAR, Oakland Magazine, and the Absolute Sound, and he hosts a weekly show on KPFA-FM 94.1. whitney phaneuf is the editor-in-chief of Via and has previously held editorial positions at KQED, East Bay Express, Hitfix/Uproxx, and Acoustic Guitar, Ukulele, and Strings magazines.

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