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EXP. 1-11-11

food Little River Roll — pungent smoked trout and crisp, fresh asparagus rolled in sushi rice and again in feathery dill — is popular for a reason.

in the car, devouring it like a savage. I made a pilgrimage to Elmore Mountain to see how it’s made. I continue to haunt the store shelf where it arrives every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. I also keep going to Burlington’s City Market on Wednesdays in hopes of grabbing one of Gérard Rubaud’s famous loaves, but I have yet to succeed. So, for now, Elmore Mountain is my holy grail.

And an even better pairing:

On Saturdays, the crew here serves shimmering raw oysters fresh from the docks in Massachusetts, with a mignonette sauce that sparks their flavors to life. The ever-changing beers with which to wash them down include such quaffs as Hill Farmstead Everett Porter and Lawson’s Finest Fayston Maple Imperial Stout. It’s like a little bit of Galway in landlocked Vermont.

Red Hen Baking Middlesex

Company,

Elmore Mountain Bread Seven Grain, Elmore

2033 Essex Rd • Williston • 878-1288 12h-douzo122811.indd 1

1128 Mountain Rd • Stowe • 253-8878 12/9/11 3:51 PM

TINY THAI TRIO Private party rental Sundays at our Winooski location! Call for details.

24 Main St, Downtown Winooski: 655-4888 Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm /4:30-9:30 pm Closed Sun 8h-TinyThai101409.indd 1

Essex Shoppes & Cinema 878-2788 Mon-Sat 11:30am-9:00pm Sun 12-7pm 10/1/09 3:59:47 PM

Best place I haven’t been yet, though everyone else talks about it: Ariel’s Restaurant, Brookfield I’ve called here a few times to talk with Lee Duberman or Richard Fink for stories. I’ve drooled over their menus. I’ve listened to others gush about unforgettable meals and experiences. And I have yet to make it down to Brookfield.

Most unexpected place to make it onto this list:

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11/11/11 11:13 AM

Harrison’s Restaurant and Bar, Stowe Before I first darkened the threshold here, I figured Harrison’s would be a nondescript place to grab a burger or wings or a plate of something hearty. Wrong. There’s a reason this spot is always busy, even when Stowe’s Main Street is deserted: It’s a burrow into which you can descend and feel immediately at home. To boot, the fare is well rendered, and the chef pays attention to detail — crafting a spinach dip made with mascarpone and a hint of heat, for instance, or braised short ribs in a charlike blackberry chipotle barbecue sauce that tastes like midnight. The glasses of wine are generous, too. It’s the essence of an unpretentious neighborhood American bistro. 

FOOD 47

I ripped apart my first warm loaf of this

Open Christmas & New Years!

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… And, with due props to Red Hen, the best bread epiphany:

Dine-In Only, One Per Table

12.28.11-01.11.12

For me, Red Hen Baking Company was love at first sight: a welcoming café just off the highway I drive regularly, where I could park with my laptop and feast on scones, tea, warm bread and hearty soups. Only after a few visits did I realize it also harbors a taut yet eclectic wine selection. Whoever curates this has a head for good grapes and unusual varietals: Zweigelt, Marsanne and local wines galore.

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Least obvious place to find amazing bread combined with a kick-ass wine selection:

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Featuring several tasty items on one plate for ONE LOW PRICE.

Elmore Mountain Bread

Once I saw one hop plant, I began seeing them everywhere: wending up posts and along trellises and the sides of buildings, dripping with aromatic cones. There was a time, in fact, when the whole of the Vermont landscape was covered in hops. One day soon, I hope — and so do local brewers — state growers will reach a critical mass and begin rivaling production on the West Coast.

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LUNCH COMBO!

Speaking of beer, the liveliest agricultural trend: Hops revival

Hibachi Japanese Steakhouse Japanese steak house sushi bar and Thai cuisine

FILE: JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR

Local porters/stouts and oysters, Three Penny Taproom, Montpelier

EXP. 1-11-11

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11/30/11 4:38 PM

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Vermont's only alternative newsweekly

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