food Little River Roll — pungent smoked trout and crisp, fresh asparagus rolled in sushi rice and again in feathery dill — is popular for a reason.
in the car, devouring it like a savage. I made a pilgrimage to Elmore Mountain to see how it’s made. I continue to haunt the store shelf where it arrives every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. I also keep going to Burlington’s City Market on Wednesdays in hopes of grabbing one of Gérard Rubaud’s famous loaves, but I have yet to succeed. So, for now, Elmore Mountain is my holy grail.
And an even better pairing:
On Saturdays, the crew here serves shimmering raw oysters fresh from the docks in Massachusetts, with a mignonette sauce that sparks their flavors to life. The ever-changing beers with which to wash them down include such quaffs as Hill Farmstead Everett Porter and Lawson’s Finest Fayston Maple Imperial Stout. It’s like a little bit of Galway in landlocked Vermont.
Red Hen Baking Middlesex
Elmore Mountain Bread Seven Grain, Elmore
2033 Essex Rd • Williston • 878-1288 12h-douzo122811.indd 1
1128 Mountain Rd • Stowe • 253-8878 12/9/11 3:51 PM
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Essex Shoppes & Cinema 878-2788 Mon-Sat 11:30am-9:00pm Sun 12-7pm 10/1/09 3:59:47 PM
Best place I haven’t been yet, though everyone else talks about it: Ariel’s Restaurant, Brookfield I’ve called here a few times to talk with Lee Duberman or Richard Fink for stories. I’ve drooled over their menus. I’ve listened to others gush about unforgettable meals and experiences. And I have yet to make it down to Brookfield.
Most unexpected place to make it onto this list:
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Harrison’s Restaurant and Bar, Stowe Before I first darkened the threshold here, I figured Harrison’s would be a nondescript place to grab a burger or wings or a plate of something hearty. Wrong. There’s a reason this spot is always busy, even when Stowe’s Main Street is deserted: It’s a burrow into which you can descend and feel immediately at home. To boot, the fare is well rendered, and the chef pays attention to detail — crafting a spinach dip made with mascarpone and a hint of heat, for instance, or braised short ribs in a charlike blackberry chipotle barbecue sauce that tastes like midnight. The glasses of wine are generous, too. It’s the essence of an unpretentious neighborhood American bistro.
I ripped apart my first warm loaf of this
Open Christmas & New Years!
… And, with due props to Red Hen, the best bread epiphany:
Dine-In Only, One Per Table
For me, Red Hen Baking Company was love at first sight: a welcoming café just off the highway I drive regularly, where I could park with my laptop and feast on scones, tea, warm bread and hearty soups. Only after a few visits did I realize it also harbors a taut yet eclectic wine selection. Whoever curates this has a head for good grapes and unusual varietals: Zweigelt, Marsanne and local wines galore.
Least obvious place to find amazing bread combined with a kick-ass wine selection:
NEW YEAR SPECIAL
Featuring several tasty items on one plate for ONE LOW PRICE.
Elmore Mountain Bread
Once I saw one hop plant, I began seeing them everywhere: wending up posts and along trellises and the sides of buildings, dripping with aromatic cones. There was a time, in fact, when the whole of the Vermont landscape was covered in hops. One day soon, I hope — and so do local brewers — state growers will reach a critical mass and begin rivaling production on the West Coast.
20% OFF DINNER 10% OFF LUNCH
Speaking of beer, the liveliest agricultural trend: Hops revival
Hibachi Japanese Steakhouse Japanese steak house sushi bar and Thai cuisine
FILE: JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR
Local porters/stouts and oysters, Three Penny Taproom, Montpelier
11/30/11 4:38 PM
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