A TASTE O F SA RCAS M
>> THE SLED HAUS
BY DENISE DEPAOLO
443 S Main St, Lead, SD 57754 • (605) 639-5322
Bratwurst Platter Ayinger Oktoberfest
Paulaner Original
“In nineteenth-century Russia, sauerkraut was valued more than caviar.” — Mark Kurlansky The Sled Haus has been on my radar for several months, and I finally got there on the day that the season’s first snowflakes drifted from the sky. The Lead eatery’s façade is true to its name, a long, low angled-roofed building that would be home in any non-gentrified mountain town. A friend and I stopped in for lunch on a Tuesday. We’d tried the day before, but it’s closed on Mondays. Too bad, because (spoiler alert) we would have probably gone back a second time. The restaurant’s interior is dark and cozy, decorated with photos and memorabilia and clever signs. The tables and chairs are homey and rustic. At the far end is a bar, behind which is a chalkboard wall scrawled with the extensive beer list. Keeping with the theme of the establishment, I ordered an Ayinger Oktoberfest from the list of German beers. My friend, a devout Coors Light drinker, was feeling saucy and let our server (who I believe was also the owner) choose a brew for her. She recommended the Paulaner Original, which went over very well. Apparently a taste of the Alps, as opposed to the Rockies.
Pizza Burger
Black Forest sandwich
42 // DECEMBER 2016
The menu was populated with sandwiches and burgers, in addition to a couple of German-inspired selections. We were pretty darn hungry and amongst strangers, so we went ahead and ordered the Bratwurst Platter, in addition to the Pizza Burger and Black Forest sandwich for lunch. While we waited for our meal, other diners came and went, all of whom were greeted warmly and most of whom were called by name. After about 15 minutes, our food arrived, smelling glorious. We started with the Pizza Burger, because anything on a bun slathered with marinara sauce has a finite amount of time before it becomes mush. The bun was lightly toasted, which helped it maintain its integrity, but the bottom was definitely not long for this world. Good thing it was too delicious to put down. It was on the messy end of the spectrum, sure, but I know how to use
a napkin. The sauce was rich and zesty atop a layer of pepperoni and melted mozzarella. Underneath, the burger remained a prominent player in the flavor profile. I definitely appreciated that the “burger” in Pizza Burger wasn’t merely a vehicle for bolder toppings. Next, we moved on to the Black Forest sandwich. Like the burger, this sandwich was served without a side. But considering its size, that didn’t really matter. The bread was soft and filled with pastrami, bacon, melted Swiss cheese, and Thousand Island dressing. The combination was positively mouthwatering – salty, savory, smoky, and a little sweet. We left a little bit of bread behind, but like the burger, we gobbled it right down.
UNLIKE MANY SAUERKRAUTS I’VE EATEN, IT WAS SOFT AND SLIGHTLY SWEET, EVEN A LITTLE APPLEY. I ENJOY MOST SAUERKRAUTS, BUT THIS WAS THE BEST I’VE EVER HAD. Finally, we dug into the Bratwurst Platter. It was two gigantic brats served atop a bed of German Home Fries (seasoned grilled potatoes with onions) and sauerkraut, with a side of spicy mustard. The perfectly seared sausage was earthy and delicately seasoned. The star of the plate, however, was the warm sauerkraut. Unlike many sauerkrauts I’ve eaten, it was soft and slightly sweet, even a little appley. I enjoy most sauerkrauts, but this was the best I’ve ever had. My friend typically hates sauerkraut, but she loved this one. We agreed that we could have eaten a plate of just this. Don’t get me wrong, I’m