Harrogate & York issue 32

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the island of Mljet (one-third of which is a national park), and neighbouring Montenegro. EATING/DRINKING There is a wide range of restaurants in the Old Town, mostly offering a very similar menu of local seafood and some meat dishes. The cuisine may not be very imaginative, but it is usually of good quality and very fresh. Restaurants can be crudely separated into (slightly) cheaper tourist-trap haunts, and more expensive but first class gastronomic restaurants. There are a few pizzerias, mostly wood-fired and acceptable. The Kraš chocolate sold at stores is delicious too! Note that in the off peak season of November to March nearly all the top-end restaurants close, leaving only a handful of desperate tourist trap enterprises operating and still charging high prices. You can however still eat well and best of all, discounts can be negotiated. Dubrovnik cuisine is characteristically not very spicy and is famous for traditionalism. Many popular meals are characteristic of Dubrovnik such as zelena menestra (it is the name for many sorts of cabbages and other vegetables with meat), pasticada and the famous delicacy dubrovacka rozata. The most popular alcohol in Croatia is homemade rakija. This is a very strong distilled tipple made from a variety of fruits. Examples include sljivovica, made from plums, loza, made from grapes, and orahovica, made with walnuts. There are many excellent local wines from both the Peljesac Peninsula and Konavle and it is often less expensive than soft drinks. However, be careful when purchasing wine from unlicensed dealers as it can sometimes be of low quality! SLEEPING Hotels in Dubrovnik include two, three, four and five-star hotels. Private rooms are a good option for those on a budget; the downside is that they may be far from the Old Town, so make sure to check the location. Owners letting out these rooms accost buses at the bus station, so you can ask around and even bargain a little. DON’T LEAVE WITHOUT VISITING… Cafe Buza: This place is little known but definitely the find in Dubrovnik. Indeed, you will have to wander down an alleyway along the main western wall where you’ll find a nondescript door. Enter it to find the most amazing bar you might ever enjoy a beer in. The cafe is built on the side of the rocky cliffs, hiding inside the Dubrovnik wall. Relax and enjoy the view as the dramatic wall rises above your head; or, as you are so near the small beach why not dip your toes in the water! Fact file: Dubrovnik has an international airport, located approximately 20 km (12 miles) from Dubrovnik city centre. There is no train to Dubrovnik. A narrow gauge line used to link Dubrovnik to Sarajevo but was closed in 1976; however, buses connect the airport with the Dubrovnik old main bus station in Gruž and Croatia Airlines even operates buses between the airport and the main bus station in Kantafig (takes approx. 45 minutes), which is 2.5 km northwest of the Old Town. Taxis from the airport to the centre will cost 220 kn. The bus passes close to the Old Town en-route to the airport; you can board the bus at the stop on Petra Kresimira 4 just above the Old Town, by the lower cable car station. Make sure you wave furiously otherwise the driver may not stop!

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The main bus station is in Kantafig, near Port Gruz and the Tudjman Bridge, 2.5 km northwest of the Old Town. Local bus 7 operates between this station and Babin kuk, and bus 1 serves the Old Town. On buses you pay a separate fee of 10 Kn to the driver for luggage, so keep some change handy. Taxis in Dubrovnik are available around the clock and you can easily pick one up at one of the many taxi stops. The good news is that a taxi service will never cost you more than 100 Kn (approx. £11) in any direction within Dubrovnik city limits! If you are planning to drive a car in Dubrovnik, be aware that lots of streets are one way. If in doubt, passersby will gladly direct you. Dubrovnik is easy to cover on foot; in fact it will take the averagely fit person less than 1.5 hours to walk from the historical centre to the very end of Lapad peninsula. Climate: The climate along the Dubrovnik Region is a typical Mediterranean one, with mild, rainy winters and hot, dry summers. However, it is perhaps distinct from other Mediterranean climates because of the unusual winds and frequency of thunderstorms. The Bura wind blows cold gusts down the Adriatic coast between October and April. The air temperatures can slightly vary, depending on the area or region. Typically, in July and August daytime maximum temperatures reach 29°C (84°F), and at night drop to around 21°C (70°F). More comfortable perhaps, is the climate in Spring and Autumn when maximum temperatures are typically between 20°C (68°F) and 28°C (82°F). Language: Croatian is the official language spoken in Dubrovnik. English is taught as a second language in schools however, and other international languages are also fluently spoken. Currency: Kuna (Kn.) £1 British pound is worth approx. 8 Kuna. The word “Kuna” means “marten” in Croatian since it is based on the use of marten pelts as units of value in medieval trading.

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