KOLKATA Expat Guide
COST OF LIVING
Public Transportation
Tips for your
Accommodation
also
Useful and Advice
Information
Food & Culture
The perfect key to Expats relocation and housing needs in Kolkata.
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CONTENTS Moving to India Essential Info Visas Getting There Languages Cost of Living Accommodation Furniture Domestic Help Food Transport Health Care Average Prices Education Culture In the Workplace In Daily Life Festivals and Holidays Safety
1 3 5 6 6 7 7 8 9 9 12 14 15 17 18 19 19 20 20
9 The market The market prices of fresh groceries are generally substantially lower than local supermarkets, however, the market is sometimes challenging for expats...
12 Yellow Cabs
Taxis are widely available in urban centres, and are the only form of transport accessible 24 hours a day. The minimum fare for a taxi ride is Rs. 25, and it keeps increasing as per the distance travelled...
Moving To India
1
Taj Mahal Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India
Embarking on a journey to India can be an exciting yet challenging time for most Expats. You will be faced with many new difficulties, but this guide attempts to prepare you for all of the major things you will need to know, in order to have a smooth transition. Kolkata, known also as Calcutta, was once the bustling capital city when it was under British rule until its independence in 1947. As a result of their presence, the city brings a unique flair of both Indian and British influences in a way that is unlike any other city. While poverty is very apparent on the streets of Kolkata, the city has many areas in which it is developing. Newly constructed suburbs, apartment complexes, modern shopping malls, and restaurants are popping up all over the city which makes it a great place for an Expat. Additionally, there are many clubs and social groups for the opportunity to meet other Expats and make the transition a bit easier. The city of Kolkata is brimming over with new people, new culture, new foods, and new experiences- its your chance to embrace your new life in Kolkata. 2
Essential Info
Essential Info
Population
Electricity 240 volts, 50Hz
The population in India boasts over 1.2 billion people. Kolkata is the third largest metropolitan area in India after New Delhi and Mumbai. The population of Kolkata is approximately 14 million people.
Currency The Indian Rupee (INR)
State
Time Zone GMT +5.5
Calling codes International: +91 Local: 033
West Bengal
Emergency numbers 100 (police) - 101 (fire) 102 (ambulance) From cell phone - 112
Because of Kolkata’s close borders with Bangladesh, many of Kolkata’s residents have a Bengali heritage, however, Kolkata is a diverse city with Marwari, Bihari, and other people from around India dispersed throughout. 3
People
Major Religions Hinduism 80 % Islam 13% Christianity 2% Sikhism 2% Buddhism and Jainism 3% Legal System National - Federal parliamentary constitutional republic. Main languages National languages are Hindi and English (official), in addition to over 18 regional
languages. In Kolkata, Bengali and English are the primary spoken languages along with some Hindi. Weather Kolkata is considered a tropical wet and dry climate. June- September: Monsoon Usually range from 26 (low) to 34 (high) with very high levels of humidity. March-May: Temperatures can be unbearably hot and humid with temperatures reaching 40 or higher. 4
Visas All foreign nationals who wish to come to India must have their own country's valid passport and an Indian visa. Listed below are the categories of the visas available for India. The purpose of visit cannot be changed once the person has reached India: Tourist Visa Is given to those visiting India for tourism or other non-business related purposes and is generally valid up to 6 months. Business Visa Is given those who are doing business in India such as making sales or establishing contacts on behalf of a company outside of India. This type of Visa may be valid for one year or more with multiple entries, however, the period of stay in India (for each visit) under this category is limited to six months only. Journalist Visa Is given to professional journalists and photographers for up to three months' stay in India. For applicants who to make a documentary in India, kindly contact the Press and Information wing in the Embassy/Consulate.
Conference Visa This type of Visa is for international conferences, or on certain subjects, as decided by the Government of India from time to time. Such a Visa can be issued only after clearance for the said conference is received from the Government of India. Employment Visa Is granted to those who are an employee of an Indian company. The Embassy/Consulate may grant Employment visa valid for a year irrespective of the duration of the contract. Further extension up to 5 years could be obtained from MHA/FRRO in the concerned state in India. Student Visa Is given to bona fide students to pursue regular studies at recognised institutions in India. The Visa has multiple entry options and is valid for the period of study as approved by the educational institution in India. Missionaries Visa Missionary Visas are granted for those going to India for religious purposes and a single entry visa is issued. For further information visit http://indianvisaonline.gov.in/visa/website
5
NETAJI SUBHAS CHANDRA BOSE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
Getting There
Language
Kolkata’s Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose International Airport (CCU) is situated about 17 km outside of Kolkata’s city center. Both prepaid and postpaid taxis are readily available from the airport. Booking at the counter before leaving the building is advised so that you get a fair price and guaranteed transportation to your destination.There are air conditioned Volvo buses available from airport to Tollygunge running from 8 am to 10 pm charging a fare of Rs. 60.
Because of India’s diverse cultures and dialects, English is used for most official, political, and commercial communications. In Kolkata, most locals speak Bengali, however the younger generations tend to be proficient in English. Additionally, most understand Hindi. Most expats have little trouble communicating using English in daily interactions. That said, the level of English is not as good as other large cities such as Mumbai, New Delhi, or Bangalore. 6
Cost of Living Out of all the metropolitan cities in India, Kolkata remains the cheapest in comparison for living expenses. As it grows, it continues to become more expensive; however, things like food and transportation remain very reasonable. Of course living expenses are dependent on the lifestyle that is expected. Kolkata has a wide range of both upscale and more locally priced goods, services, food, etc.
Accommodation The market in Kolkata has remained relatively unchanged by the economic downturn because most investors in the past saw more of an industrial growth in the other metropolitan cities. Therefore, when the industry takes a hit, the housing industry seems to sustain. Expat friendly apartments in Kolkata (Western standards) are generally available between 40,000 to 100,000 INR per month and onwards as the quality and size increase; however, rental prices are irregular, and places of drastically different quality may be the same price. One can expect to pay the following monthly rates for a flat: 7
• A three-bedroom luxury apartment in Kolkata 80,000 - 200,000 INR • A three-bedroom average apartment in Kolkata 35,000 – 60,000 INR Location also makes a huge impact on price. Central Kolkata and a few up-and-coming areas still remain the most expensive properties in the city. Bollygunge, Alipore, and in and around Park Street are some of the most desirable areas in the city, as well as some of the higher-end complexes like South City Complex and Silver Spring Complex.
Furniture In Kolkata furniture can be an issue, as the prices are high and the quality not necessarily on the same level of the standards most expats are looking for. The best option is to convince the landlord to furnish the flat. Another convenient alternative would be to rent certain items. There are many specialized shops that rent everything from furniture to large electronic appliances. It is important to choose furniture based on lifestyle requirements and budget.
Domestic Help As the cost of labor is very reasonable, many expats in Kolkata enjoy the luxury of having help around the house. Workers are available for varying levels of involvement, depending on what you require. 8
Domestic Help
Food
For example you can have a live-in maid, a sweeper to come daily/weekly or a cook. Ask around for the best prices, usually your employer will provide a budget for such things in your employment packages. Most domestic help is found only by asking around, and by making it known you are looking for help. Most speak little to no English, so you may need to contact the help of a local or an experienced expat to help you communicate your needs and expectations. The following are estimates of the wages PER MONTH for domestic help for expats: • A maid/cook coming daily Rs. 10,000 • Cook coming daily Rs. 3,000 - 5,000 • Sweeper Rs. 500 - 1,500
Even though prices are constantly rising, the food costs in India are very affordable even to the lowest of classes.
Local market The market prices of fresh groceries are generally substantially lower than local supermarkets, however, the market is sometimes challenging for expats.
• Often markets can be crowded and Once you have found help, explain sometimes extreme attention will be thoroughly your expectations and times given to a foreigner doing their shopyou want them to come. ping. Also, note that most domestic help expect bonuses during one of the major holidays such as Durga Puja, Eid, or Christmas. Generally this bonus is a half month to one month’s wage and some provide a new outfit such as a sari.
• Bargaining must often be done in order to get a fair price. Vendors may try to overprice their products when dealing with a foreign client. To counteract this, be aware of what the supermarket charges for some of your favorite foods. You should never 9
Food Tips Local Market: • Crowded • Bergain to get a fair price • Languages differences • Be aware of the hygiene
Eating Out: • Good option, fair price
Street Vendors • Risky for unexperienced Expats Imported Goods • The selection is limitated • The prices might be high
pay more than you would buy the items at the supermarket. • Communication barriers may exist as the vendors may speak very little, if any, English. • Hygiene can be a concern for some buying products from the vendors, because most of the markets are on the streets of Kolkata, there is no standard of quality or food safety. That said, markets are everywhere, so vendors have many competitors- they must make sure their products are fresh or else they will not sell. Sometimes fresh produce and meat is often better quality than those on the shelf of the supermarket because the products are brought in daily from local farmers and suppliers. 10
If you have a cook, you can ask them to go to the markets for youwhich is much less of a hassle for them and they can receive fair prices. Eating out - is a great option, as a meal can cost as little as Rs. 200 to 300 and up to Rs. 600 in a mediumrange restaurant. If someone fancies a 5-star restaurant, meals cost around Rs. 1200 per person. Street Vendors - Eating food from street vendors is risky for expats, especially those that are new to India, as their bodies have not adjusted.
Food safety is highly variable, so use your best judgement when venturing into this culinary adventure. Imported Goods - there is a decent variety of imported goods available in Kolkata at specialty stores and some supermarkets, however, the selection is extremely limited and most foreigners find these items even higher priced than the goods would cost in the home country. This is due to the large taxation for importing these items. Large International corporations such as Coke or Heineken make their products in India to avoid some of these taxes. 11
Transport The traf�ic during the day in Kolkata, is extremely congested and highly unpredictable, as the traf�ic rules don’t seem to apply in most cases. Many expats do not want to drive here, while many others say they like the madness. Once you catch the rhythm, you will probably get used to it, but if you don’t, you will always be stressed. Therefore, many expats opt for hiring a driver, which is in most cases affordable. The cost of petrol in India (Dec. 2012) is between Rs. 75- 80 per liter.
Owning a car India has the world’s cheapest car, the TATA. Expats can purchase a basic TATA model (Indica) for a starting price of Rs. 400,000. A slightly better alternative is Maruti Suzuki, which is available for about Rs. 700,000. On the other side, vehicle expenses fall into three categories: one-time costs, ongoing costs and emergency costs. Purchase price, sales tax, registration fee, etc, are the one-time costs of any vehicle. The ongoing costs include fuel, insurance, routine maintenance, depreciation and the cost of driver, among others; while emergency costs include towing and repairs. The �irst step to establish the real cost of ownership is to answer a few questions: Will you be using the car to commute? Will you be hiring a driver? Will you have to pay for
parking at your place of work? Assume monthly expenses on fuel, parking and driver are likely to be Rs. 5,000, Rs. 1,500 and Rs. 6,000, respectively. Add to these the monthly average of maintenance and depreciation, and the sum total of all these expenses will be around Rs. 19,300 per month.
Renting a car If you don’t want to buy a car in India, a very convenient alternative is to hire a driver and car, a cost which can start at Rs. 1200 per day, including everything (TATA Indica) or Rs. 1600 (Toyota Innova). On a monthly basis one can expect to pay Rs. 35.000 and above.
12
Public transport Yellow Cabs The minimum fare for a taxi ride is Rs. 25, and it keeps increasing as per the distance travelled. Remember to make sure that the meter is switched on as soon as you are seated in the cab, and you can ask for a fare chart from a taxi driver in case of any discrepancy. All taxis have a fare chart which shows how much is to be paid for a particular amount shown in the meter. The amount can also be calculated manually; simply multiply the amount displayed on the meter by 2.4, and then add one. For example, if the meter shows Rs. 30, then the actual amount to be paid is Rs. 73. Please note that all taxi drivers may not know where the destination is you require. Be aware of crossroads, nearby landmarks, etc. to help the taxi driver understand where to take you. Once you become familiar with the roads, it will be easier to direct your taxi driver.
The Metro The Metro rail is the fastest and most convenient and inexpensive mode of transport in most urban centres. In Kolkata the metro stretches from Tollygunge to Dum Dum (near airport) which are
the two extreme ends of the city and covers the distance in 33 minutes, if there are no delays. The metro trains run at an interval of 7 minutes in peak hours and around 10 to 15 minutes in dull hours. The �irst train starts at 7am and the last train leaves at around 9.30pm. The Rate chart for the Kolkata Metro Zone
Distance
Fare
I II III
Up to 5 stations Up to 10 stations Up to 17 stations
Rs. 4 Rs. 6 Rs. 6
Multi Ride Tickets : LMR : Limited Multi Ride – Valid for 30 days – Get 40 rides for the fare of Rs. 30 EMR : Extended Multi Ride – Valid for 90 days – Get 80 rides by paying for Rs. 55 NOTE: The multi ride ticket is for a particular Zone. It cannot be used for other Zones.
Auto Rickshaws Auto Rickshaws are three wheeler motor cycles that can carry four people at a time. The auto rickshaw runs in selected areas only and mostly covers areas up to 3 kms from a metro station. These small vehicles can be better suited to
13
weave in and out of traf�ic, and are very fast and convenient for shorter journeys. Autos are not available everywhere. The price of the autorickshaw is between Rs. 5 to Rs. 20.
Trams Trams are rail-based and run alongside the traf�ic. They are very slow and can be time consuming, however, they are useful during peak traf�ic when they can pass the traf�ic jams. They are only available in limited areas. Trams are considered more like a joy ride for Calcuttians, or for those who aren’t in a hurry. The price is very economical though and there are always seats available unlike other modes of transport.
Ferry A ferry is quite convenient in and around Howrah Station. However, it is also very good for sightseeing and parties.
Health Care
Hand - Cycle Rickshaw These run mostly in residential areas and are used for very short distances. The average cost is around Rs. 10 to 15. The rickshaw can �it only two people in it. These are useful in areas where there are no autos available.
Busses The city is crammed with busses. It is the most common form of transport which is the most widely used by commuters. The bus covers the maximum range and is also very economical. The ticket prices range from Rs. 4.50 to Rs. 8. That said, expats should note that the busses in the city are overcrowded, and there is hardly ever any space available to sit down. So please expect to stand for most of your journey. To add to this, these busses do not believe in traf�ic signals. So please be careful when in or around a bus.
Generally speaking Health Care in Kolkata is much cheaper than the same service for those who are uninsured most western countries, such as U.S. or most European countries. Rates vary depending on service; however, you can expect that a doctors visit will cost about Rs. 400 - 500, without tests or prescription. Blood tests, X-Ray, Ultrasound, and other testing ranges depending on the service. Generally, routine testing should not cost more than Rs. 2000. Prescription and nonprescription medication can be purchased either at the hospital itself or at local chemists and druggists for very reasonable prices. Please be aware that they may not carry the exact brand of medication, so be sure to bring the generic name for any medications you may need to purchase in India. It is advised to bring all necessary medications with you from your home country. 14
Average Prices Accommodation (monthly rent in good area)
Approximate Cost
Furnished 2 bedroom apartment
INR 150,000 to INR 600,000 INR 80,000
Room in shared apartment
INR 10,000 to 25,000
House for Expat Family of 4+
Food and Drink 1 litre milk 500g cheese Bread (white) 12 eggs
Nestle - INR 54; Mother Dairy - INR 24 Local - INR 106; Imported INR 200 Local - INR 20; Bakery INR 200 INR 40
1kg sugar
INR 51
500g ground coffee
INR 194
Tea bags (25)
INR 300
1 litre Coca-Cola
INR 34.00
1 litre mineral water 1kg minced buffalo (beef is expensive and not easily sourced)
INR 20
1kg chicken (whole) Beer per can Bottle of wine Cigarettes (20)
Local - INR 140; Foreign Shop - INR 220 INR 80.00 Local - INR 500; Imported INR 1000+ INR 100
Household INR 400
500ml dishwashing liquid
INR 69 Bar soap - INR 50, Liquid soap - INR 300 INR 45 to INR 200
Toothpaste
India is a country in which you can find affordable most of the things, prices are considerable lower than in Europe and America. Among of Indian cities, Kolkata is one of the cheapest; the average prices in Kolkata are about 66% cheaper than in New York and about 75% cheaper than in London.
Best Prices
INR 200
2.5kg laundry detergent Bath soap
Comparing Prices
200ml shampoo
INR 67
Deodorant
INR 200
• • • • • • •
Mineral Water Bread Eggs Taxi Metro Antibiotics Fast food meal
Utilities Telephone line (monthly rental)
INR 1,500 (Internet - INR 1,500 as well)
15
Household
Average Prices 500ml dishwashing liquid 2.5kg laundry detergent
INR 400
Bath soap
INR 69 Bar soap - INR 50, Liquid soap - INR 300 INR 45 to INR 200
Toothpaste 200ml shampoo
INR 67
Deodorant
INR 200
Utilities Telephone line (monthly rental) Mobile/cell phone Electricity costs - apartment
INR 1,500 (Internet - INR 1,500 as well) INR 3,000 average of INR 10,000 for 3,000 sq. feet of space in Delhi
High Prices The imported products most of the times are the most expensive goods.
Eating out and entertainment Three-course restaurant meal
INR 1,200
Fast-food meal
INR 200
Coffee in café
INR 120
Beer in bar
INR 300
Taxi
INR 24+ (meter per km) INR 5-10+ (depends on distance traveled) INR 100 to INR 250
City bus Internet café (30min) Club Entry (upmarket) Cinema Ticket
INR 1,000 INR 150- 300 (normal seats), 1000 (luxury seats)
Health
Spa/ Massage
INR 400; Home Visit INR 700 INR 2000 and above
Aspirin (100 tablets)
INR 290
Consultation – private doctor/GP
Antibiotics (12)
INR 120
Monthly Gym Membership
INR 2,000 to 7,000
Male Haircut
INR 200
Female Haircut
INR 500
Manicure
INR 300
Pedicure
INR 400
• • • •
Beer Drinks in clubs Cheese Meat
Data The data was obtained from Expats living in Kolkata. For updated information you can check portals on line like numbeo.com and expatistan.com
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Education A massive surge in education costs in the past five years has stretched the monthly budgets of middle-class households. While inflation has risen at an average annual rate of 6.54 percent since 2006, school education costs have shot up by almost 18 percent. According to an Assocham survey of 2,000 families across 15 cities, the annual school education expense on a child has risen from Rs. 35,000 five years ago to Rs. 94,000 now. The approximate fees for a Private International School in Kolkata can be seen in the chart below. The range depends on the child’s age, the smallest amount being for children aged 3 - 4 and above, increasing with every class up to highest amount listed, which is for the children of class 12 (about 18 years old).
It is recommended... ...for an expat family to take their children to an International school to achieve better integration. Because there are very few foreigners in Indian schools, most Indian schools are taught in Hindi or Bengali, which can result in difficulty especially for smaller children. The education allowance for expats is normally included in an employment package, if the whole family is relocating. 17
Education The approximate fees for a Private International School in Kolkata can be seen in the next chart. The range depends on the child’s age, the smallest amount being for children aged 3 - 4 and above, increasing with every class up to highest amount listed, which is for the children of class 12 (about 18 years old).
Name of the School
South City Calcutta Cambridge Pailand GEMS Heritage International International World International
Form
1.000
Admission Fees
50.000
150.000 200.000
5.000 20.000
11.000 27.000
30.000
40.000 90.000
Anual Tuition
21.000
48.000 55.800
27.360 57.600
11.000 57.600
4.600 15.900
25.800 38.400
Session Fee
12.000
12.000
2.000
6.500
Transport
1.200
9.000 12.000 14.400 26.400
27.600 31.200
Lunch & Refreshments
9.600 24.900
Other Fees
15.000
55.500
2.990
6.600
20.000
54.000
Total Annual
99.000
265.500 323.300
37.350 82.590
49.500 124.100
54.600 65.900
167.200 251.700
Approximate fees 2012. For further information contact directly the education institution of your interest. • South City International School (www.southcityinternationalschool.com) • Calcutta International School (www.calcuttais.edu.in) • Cambridge School (www.thecambridgeschool.ac.in) • Pailan World School(www.pailanworldschool.com) • GEMS Akademia International School (www.gemsakademia.com) • The Heritage School (www./theheritageschool.org) 18
Culture
When stepping foot in India for the first time, it sometimes feels as if you are entering a whole different world. For many expats, it can be very overwhelming at first. Kolkata is no different. In fact, many say that Kolkata has a very unique feel compared to other big cities in India. Kolkata is not yet a city where you find large high rises or many modern buildings, instead it almost feels as though you are walking into a time capsule.
First you will notice all of the old pieces left behind from the time of British rule. Kolkata used to be the capital city when the British controlled India; they left the city in 1947. The most recognizable things left are the corroding European style architecture and old yellow taxi’s from that era. These taxi’s are still used as the only public taxi in Kolkata. On the surface, some parts of Kolkata can seem untouched and deteriorating, but on the flip side it is being filled with more and more modern construction including 5 star hotels, apartment complexes, and roads. 18
IN THE WORKPLACE
IN DAILY LIFE
Culture in the workplace can be very different than in your home country; however, Kolkata has made strides towards a more modern workplace. A high level of bureaucracy is one of the things that was adopted during British rule, which you will find throughout India, but especially in Kolkata. Paperwork and strict commitment to procedure make it hard for some Westerners who are used to a more flexible work environment.
The culture of daily life in Kolkata can be quite the adjustment for some Westerners. You will see people milling about the streets in the morning, doing their morning washing, running daily errands, or gathering food from the markets. The first rule to adjust to the culture is to try
That said, out of all the large cities in India, Kolkata seems to be the most relaxed and they are not used to a fast-paced work environment. This may be frustrating for Expats because often times things take much longer to get done and people don’t share a sense of urgency for most matters. Business attire in Kolkata, is simple and conservative. Men tend to wear trousers and a button up shirt, sometimes with a tie for the higher level positions.Pant suits are also acceptable, and knee length skirts can be worn in some situations. However, it is extremely rare to see anyone baring their legs at all, especially in the workplace. Indian dress is also acceptable for many jobs, but it is important to check with your companies policies.
not to be surprised about anything that happens in Kolkata.
You may frequently see large families on one motorbike, livestock roaming about, or people urinating on the side of the road- it is all part of the experience. While Kolkata does have a rising number of foreigners and Expats, it may not be common to see others in your daily life, except in tourist areas and expat hangouts. Therefore, it is common for people to stare or be fascinated by you if you are roaming the streets. It is rare though that you will receive any trouble or hassling from the locals. As mentioned before, most of them carry a relaxed attitude. Once adjusted to the feel an attitude of Kolkata most enjoy the unique qualities and pace of the city. There is always something interesting going on and there is never a dull moment in the city of joy.
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FESTIVALS & PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Westerners may be surprised by the sheer number of holidays in India. There are religious holidays celebrated by Hindu or Muslim as well as public and national holidays. These are the major holidays celebrated for West Bengal for 2012 (some of the dates will change for the following year). SAFETY Holiday Netaji’s Birthday Republic Day Sree Panchami Saraswati Puja Doljatra Holi Good Friday Bengali New Year’s day May Day Rath Yatra Id-ul-Fitr Independence Day Janmasthami Mahatma Gandhi’s Birthday Durgapuja (Maha Navami) Durgapuja (Vijaya Dasami) Id-uz-Zuha (Bakhrid) Lakshmi Puja Kali Puja/Dewali Chhat Guru Nanak`s Birthday Christmas Day
Date Janyary 23 Janyary 26 Janyary 28 March 8 March 9 April 6 April 14 May 1 July 10 August 9 August 15 August 28 October 2 October 11 October 12 October 14 October 28 November 2 November 8 November 17 December 25
Compared to other metropolitan cities, Kolkata’s crime is considerably lower considering the massive population of over 15 million. Most of the crime that occurs is nonviolent, usually petty crimes such as theft are most common. It is important to use caution with your belongings in crowded areas and public transportation. Most foreign women have no problem at all living in Kolkata. That said, while travelling around at night it is advised to have someone with you. Walking around at late hours (after 10:30pm) is not advised, especially alone. The Indian “eve teasing” is not as common as it is in other cities; however, crimes against women are on the rise in Kolkata. For foreigners, it is common to be scammed for more money when purchasing something. They will try to charge you much more for items in markets or for transportation in taxis or autos because they assume you are not familiar with how much things cost or the exchange rate. 20
In case you are a new Expat in Kolkata and have further questions, we will gladly give you support.
Contact our Expat team
w w w.4incomers.com Constantia , 11, U.N. Brahmachari Road , Kolkata 700017, info@4incomers.com