August 2023 48° North - Digital

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ENGINE PROBLEMS FOR POWER-CRUISERS 32 CIRCUMNAVIGATION PREPARATIONS 36 ADVENTURE ARTISTS OF R2AK - 206-286-1004 Also Dealers For Alerion Express Series Yachts Ae20 Ae28 Ae30 Ae33 J/45 ● OFFSHORE PERFOMANCE CRUISING Delivery slot available for 2024 2008 J/122 ● $259,000 NEW LISTING 2018 MJM 40z ● $1,200,000 DOCKATOUR J/Sport - J/70 J/80 J/88 J/9 J/99 J/111 J/121 J/Elegant - J/112e J/122e J/45 MJM Series Yachts MJM 3, MJM 35, MJM 4, MJM 42 Shilshole Marina Sales Office • • 206-286-1004 New Boats • 2024 Delivery Slots Available Brokerage Boats • We Are Selling Boats J/99 ● Fast, Fun Offshore Speedster J/112e ● Family Cruising in Comfort & Style J/9 ● The Most Comfortable Cockpit Ever 1986 J/40 ● $69,000 2007 X-41 ● $199,000 2020 J/99 ● Coming Soon 1992 J/35c ● $85,000 1987 J/40 ● $65,000 1999 J/105 ● $44,000 NEW LISTING NEW LISTING

Held every Friday through August 25

| i n f o @ s e a t t l e s a i l i n g . c o m | @ s e a t t l e s a i l i n g c l u b l e s a i l i n g . c o m | s h o p . s e a t t l e s a i l i n g . c o m M E M B ERSHIP - ASA S A I L N G SCHOOLPRO S H O P
by: J o i n u s f o r S a i l f e s t 2 0 2 3 ! SLOOP TAVERN YACHT CLUB F U N , F R E E R A C E O P E N T O A L L
followed by food and drinks!
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32 McKayla Bower: Success Isn’t the Goal

A local sailor with a unique story readies to circumnavigate solo. By Jenn Harkness

36 The Adventure Artists of R2AK 2023

Sharing remarkable tales from the notorious adventure race. By Joe Cline


20 Paddle Path: A Pursuit All Its Own

24 Diesel Deep Dive: Spares for Distance Cruising

26 Close to the Water: Eating on a Small Boat

This cruiser bakes bread and more during small craft escapades. By Bruce Bateau 28 Shifting Gears: Mechanical Machinations

Powerboat cruising is fast and fun... when the engine works. By Dennis Bottemiller


40 Sweet Home Anacortes — Race Week 2023

Blue skies, competitive racing, and the return of the parties.

42 The Red Ruby Project: Year Two

PNW racers enjoy learning among European competiton.

48º NORTH 5 AUGUST 2023
Inspiration from the women who competed in Seventy48. By Erica Lichty
What to bring, and what to know when self-sufficiency reigns. By Meredith Anderson
ON THE COVER: Equal parts power and beauty, especially upwind in a blow. Jeanne and Evgeniy Goussev and Team We Brake For Whales sailed their custom water-ballasted Lyman-Morse, Gray Wolf , brilliantly and outlasted the competition in very rough conditions to win this year’s Race to Alaska. Photo by Jim Meyers. Background
photo courtesy of Joe Cline.



I realize that many boaters may be thinking about wrapping up the summer boating season this month. Still, for the average cruiser, August may just as easily be the month you’ve looked forward to all year, when you’ll untie those lines and spend some time afloat in the islands or even farther afield.

For the second time in as many months, I'm experiencing wonderful night before butterflies. As I write this, I’m sitting at the nav station in the just-as-cozy-as-Iremember-it main salon of a friend’s Canadian Sailcraft 40. Tomorrow, we depart for the 48° North Cruising Rally. Earlier this summer, I had a memorable and rolly “eve” before the 5 a.m. start of Race to Alaska, during which my excitement could not be drowned out by the fitful soundscape of shrieking fenders and the intermittent clang of a piling-collar slam (check page 36 for R2AK coverage).

If you ask me, the night before is almost as good as cruising. It’s our Day Zero, and essentially part of the trip. By this time, you’re there. You’re in it. You have unplugged. I just walked across the street to the store (love when it’s this close) to tie up the final loose ends of provisioning, and it was nothing like my weekly trudge to restock at home, in the best way. When you’re shopping the night before, you’ve got an important task, but also a permission slip to indulge. Do we have enough LaCroix and Hazy IPA? What the heck, a little more couldn’t hurt.

As I put ice in the cooler and the last items in the fridge, I admired our haul. We certainly weren’t going hungry. Looking around, everything was in order. The dinghy bobbed lazily at our stern, tow line tied short but ready to be extended. Belongings for five sailors were stowed as tactfully as possible. Water and fuel — topped up. Sails furled and fit for action. Cockpit cushions, set for forthcoming relaxation. We were ready. Well, we couldn't locate a shore power cord, so we were mostly ready; but we shouldn’t actually need that since we intend to stay away from the dock for the rest of the week.

The night before (and the lack of a power cord) also gives you that on-scene opportunity to do delightful things like meet your neighbors. Who knows when I might have met that kind and gregarious pair until I asked to charge my computer on their boat for an hour. We chatted for nearly that long, it was lovely.

The night before is the transition from that mindset of pretend control of terrestrial outcomes, to the one of assured lack of control of the nautical ones. It’s the shift from rapid-fire meetings and obligations, to cruising speed. It pleasantly obliterates my routine — senses heightened, gratitude deepened, whims welcomed, and adventure awareness activated.

Of course, the “eve” is nothing without what follows it. This rally week will be amazing, and I don’t even know why yet.

Whenever you have your next adventure-eve experience, before you retire to your bunk, make sure to appreciate just how special it is to be doing what you’re about to do.

I’ll see you on the water,

Volume XLIII, Number 1, August 2023 (206) 789-7350 |

Publisher Northwest Maritime Center

Managing Editor Joe Cline

Editor Andy Cross

Designer Rainier Powers

Advertising Sales Kachele Yelaca


Photographer Jan Anderson

48° North is published as a project of the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend, WA – a 501(c)3 non-profit organization whose mission is to engage and educate people of all generations in traditional and contemporary maritime life, in a spirit of adventure and discovery.

Northwest Maritime Center: 431 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368 (360) 385-3628

48° North encourages letters, photographs, manuscripts, burgees, and bribes. Emailed manuscripts and high quality digital images are best!

We are not responsible for unsolicited materials. Articles express the author’s thoughts and may not reflect the opinions of the magazine. Reprinting in whole or part is expressly forbidden except by permission from the editor.

SUBSCRIPTION OPTIONS FOR 2023! $39/Year For The Magazine $75/Year For Premium (perks!) for details.

Prices vary for international or first class.

Proud members:

48º NORTH 6 AUGUST 2023
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News from the Northwest Maritime Center >>

48° North has been published by the Northwest Maritime Center (NWMC) since 2018. We are continually amazed and inspired by the important work of our colleagues and organization, and dedicate this page to sharing more about these activities with you.

48° North is part of something bigger, and we believe the mission-minded efforts of our organization matter to our readers.


The Wooden Boat Festival is the Northwest Maritime Center's flagship event. It is a celebration of boatbuilding skills, craft, education, and adventure. A can't-miss good time, Festival will surely be familiar to most 48° North readers.

This year's edition has some particularly special highlights to accompany all of the tradition, education, and entertainment boat folk from the PNW and beyond have come to expect; it is all further assurance that wooden boats, and boats in general, are for everyone! The Festival will showcase new faces bringing new perspectives and insights. The world of wooden boats is becoming more awesomely diverse in terms of race, ability, gender, veteran status, and more. At the new “Future of Maritime” area, you can meet leaders who are building a better, more inclusive maritime industry.

One of the exciting centerpieces of this year's festival is Saturday evening's screening of the documentary feature, A Most Beautiful Thing, which chronicles the experiences of the country's first African American high school rowing team from the west side of Chicago. The film's inspiring protagonist, Arshay Cooper, will be at Festival and will be a part of a Q&A session following the screening.

A perennial draw to Festival is the riveting array of presenters, and 2023's slate of dozens upon dozens of seminars across a range of subjects will inform and delight attendees of all experience levels. From favorites like Nigel Calder to many new voices, the presentations truly offer something for everyone. In addition to the sit-and-listen seminars, Festival 2023 provides a number of opportunities to get hands-on, with sessions giving




Aug 4-6

Port Townsend Bay



Aug 12

NWMC Boatshop


Salish Sea Expeditions’ spring programming has officially lowered sail for the season… but what an incredible season it was! From March to June of this year, 572 students and 95 teachers were on the water aboard the program's vessels — Admiral Jack and the Schooner Zodiac. This combined effort resulted in 19,406 hours spent outside making deep connections with the marine environment and each other.

On Admiral Jack, students and teachers spent a total of 13 days exploring the interconnected aquatic environments of the Duwamish River and Elliott Bay. During their marine pursuits,

you a chance to try traditional tools, experiment with epoxy, or even make a cheese board.

Of course, it's all about the boats. 300 wooden boats of every size, style, age, and variety are the Festival's biggest draw, along with the passionate and generous owners, stewards, and builders who share their labors of love with the public. If there's a better way to spend a September weekend than wandering the docks admiring and learning about these masterpieces of form and function, we sure don't know what it is. Tickets are on sale now, and we hope to see you at this year's Wooden Boat Festival!



Aug 19

NWMC Boatshop


Aug 24-28

NWMC Boatshop

participants used plankton nets, Niskin bottles, secchi disks, microscopes, and charts to investigate scientific inquiries. This season, Salish Sea Expeditions added a drop camera courtesy of the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife.

Aboard the Zodiac, groups this season collectively spent 41 days circumnavigating the San Juan Islands. Students collected, tested, and interpreted water quality and plankton samples, built onboard STEAM projects, explored the briny deep through the lens of an ROV, and zipped ashore to explore the Islands.


48º NORTH 8 AUGUST 2023
Photo by Mitchel Osborne
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Sail Through Summer!

All the Power You Need


Response to Michael Boyd’s Mischief Around Vancouver Island Article Series

Dear Michael and 48° North,

Thank you for taking us along on your circumnavigation of Vancouver Island. Our current Bayliner 2859 is too small for such a trip, so we hang around the San Juan and Gulf islands. I visited Tofino and Ucluelet when I was a boy. We trailered our 21-foot Tolly, the Lady Rose, over an extremely rough, gravel road from Port Alberni to Tofino. The road frequently followed the most absolutely beautiful pristine streams. It was a long, but incredible trip. One of the boat trailer’s fenders broke on the portage.

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At the time, Tofino was one or two buildings and most all the people were local natives. We stayed at a shack just inside the wind-swept trees of Pacific Beach. Absolutely no one was on the beach. We had it to ourselves for a week. Salmon fishing was very slow. The memories of remote fishing villages, a pristine beach, and friendly locals are forever.

Randy Hein

Ferndale, WA Bayliner 2859, M/V Del-Sea

Response to False Creek Article in July 2023 Issue

To the Editor:

Every year we have enjoyed anchoring in False Creek for a couple of nights while in Vancouver. With the vitality and surrounding architecture, it was an incredible experience until this year.

We had an anchoring permit and I am sure we were probably the only ones. More than 50 percent of boats showed no occupation. Multiple boats were rafted up with propane, gas tanks and debris on their decks — an obvious hazard. Five hundred yards away the Canadian Coast Guard vessels sat idle. We never saw a Vancouver Police boat although billions of dollars of real estate and thousands of people surround this gem. That night we secured our dinghy on board and locked down everything. We left with the morning tide. What a shame!

Social Media Response to False Creek Article

Coast Life and Style: Anchoring in False Creek is the best way to visit Vancouver, absolutely love taking the dinghy to Granville Island.

Steve Marschman: Dim sum in Chinatown on a Saturday morning, walking from cafe to cafe... I love that in Vancouver.

48º NORTH 10 AUGUST 2023
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48º NORTH 12 AUGUST 2023

low tides » News & Events


Stern-tying to dedicated chains is safer for boaters who will no longer have to clamber over slippery rocks. Trees won’t suffer abrasions and the seabed will enjoy less scouring from anchor chain being dragged back and forth.

Jedediah Island Marine Park is located between Lasqueti and Texada islands in the Strait of Georgia off central Vancouver Island. It has long been a popular destination for recreational boaters and kayakers and is the largest and most diverse of a chain of more than 30 islands and rocky islets located north and west of Lasqueti Island. The interior of Jedediah is comprised of forest ecosystems where you will see a variety of mature tree species, including Douglas fir and arbutus, intermingled with rocky outcrops. In several areas, evidence of previous human settlements are present. A rich marine environment encircles Jedediah Island, which offers secluded bays and coves for safer harbor.

Boaters will see improved stern ties when visiting Jedediah Marine Provincial Park. The stern tie pins and chains in Deep Bay have been upgraded with the replacement of several pins and all of the chains with galvanized materials. In addition, a high-visibility marker has been added to make each of the 17 stern ties visible along the shoreline. This project was initiated by the BC Marine Parks Forever Society and completed by the Park Operator, Innovative Aquaculture Products Ltd of Lasqueti Island. The Society supplied all materials and shared the installation costs with BC Parks.

Jedediah’s isolation and tranquility make it an excellent destination for kayaking and wilderness camping. What sets Jedediah apart is its size. It is one of the largest island parks in the province. Some of the best camping areas are near the shoreline around Long Bay. Small bays on the east side of the island provide campers with a little more privacy, especially during the summer at the height of kayaking touring season, when the island can get quite busy. And cruising boaters will love the new stern tie equipment in Deep Bay on the northwest side of the island.

Read more about Jedediah Island in Lauren Upham's story in the July 2022 issue of 48° North: "Echoes of a Homesteading Past on Jedediah Island."


low tides » Late Summer Classics


A race that's a hit every year, the famous Northern Century departs Anacortes on Friday evening August 11. There's still time to register, and the class offerings are as varied as ever. Of course, you'll get all these incredible waters have to offer — beauty, currents galore, and winds across the spectrum.

The primary race is 100 miles around or through the San Juans via Point Roberts and Hein Bank. Keeping it even more dynamic, you may round the marks in any order you like! While the race began as a doublehanded event, it is now run with both doublehanded and fully-crewed classes.

In addition to the long route, there is also a 50-mile course that goes to Alden Bank and back south, any way the doublehanded or fully-crewed participants choose.



A Labor Day tradition, BYC's renowned PITCH Regatta returns for its 49th (!) year. As ever, the racing fun will be as exciting as the hospitality at the club is gracious. The race slogan, "Come for the wind, stay for the party," is truly an apt characterization, and who wouldn't want to join in?

Of course, each boat goes racing on its own, but the Kelly O'Niel Cup will once again be given out to the top scoring yacht club team of three boats who are racing representing the same club. So, it's important to bring your friends!

Racing takes place Saturday and Sunday, beginning at the civilized hour of 11:00 a.m, and will have PHRF and one-design classes. The shoreside hootenannies are on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, and include live music on Saturday!


48º NORTH 13 AUGUST 2023

low tides » In the Biz...


Editor’s Note: Another sign of the already flourishing activities and even brighter prospects of youth sailing in the Pacific Northwest, the Community Boating Program in Port Angeles is pairing its desire to increase access to sailing on the Olympic Peninsula with the skills, experience, and enthusiasm of its newly hired Junior Program Director, who started his involvement with the organization as a volunteer. That’s dang cool! Here’s their press release about the news.

The Community Boating Program (CBP) in Port Angeles is pleased to announce the appointment of Eric Lesch as the new Junior Program Director. In this role, Eric will oversee the Junior Sailing Program and will play a key role in expanding the youth sailing program to younger age groups. His immediate focus will be on launching six additional camp programs starting as young as age 6, including Opti Sailing and new offerings like Teen Keelboat and Ocean Explorer Camp. Eric’s appointment marks an important milestone in the growth and development of the CBP’s mission to provide access to boating opportunities to youth and adults on the Olympic Peninsula.

Randy Volker, Board Director of the Community Boating Program, expressed his excitement about Eric’s appointment, saying, “It has been a long and exciting journey to get our programs to the place where we can hire a junior sailing director. Eric provides the perfect balance of experience, knowledge, and enthusiasm needed to lead our programs.”

Eric brings a wealth of experience and dedication to his new role. With a lifelong passion for sailing, Eric’s journey began on the Hudson River in New York, where he had his first sailing experiences on keelboats as a child. It was during his college years that he began racing in dinghies, and his love for sailing truly flourished. Eric’s commitment to youth sailing is

unwavering, and he is determined to build the best youth sailing programs possible. “I am excited to be stepping into the role of Junior Sailing Director with the Community Boating Program,” Eric shared. “Youth sailing is the heart and soul of a thriving sailing community. I’m committed to building up our team, taking bold steps, and following through with hard work. This is exactly where I want to be.”

Eric’s journey with the CBP started in 2020 when he volunteered as a coach for the High School Sailing Team. Since then, he has made significant contributions to the organization, including obtaining his USCG captain’s license and US Sailing Small Boat Instructor certification. Eric’s dedication and involvement led to his appointment as a board member in 2022. Through his tireless efforts, Eric facilitated the acquisition of a fleet of Optimist sailboats and spearheaded the expansion of the CBP’s summer camp programs.

Reflecting on his journey, Eric said, “The Community Boating Program is such an amazing group of passionate and dedicated people, and I’m so grateful for their decision to hire me as the first Junior Sailing Director."

Under Eric’s leadership, the Community Boating Program aims to create a community where every child has the opportunity to experience the joy and challenge of sailing. The expansion of the youth sailing program and the launch of additional camp programs are significant steps towards achieving this vision.

About Community Boating Program: The Community Boating Program in Port Angeles is a non-profit organization dedicated to providing access to boating opportunities to youth and adults on the Olympic Peninsula. With a mission to foster a love for sailing and the water, the CBP offers a range of programs, including youth sailing, adult sailing, and educational opportunities. Through their inclusive and supportive environment, the CBP aims to build a thriving sailing community where everyone can experience the joy of being on the water.


48º NORTH 14 AUGUST 2023



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low tides » Products News


Pacific Northwest sailors and boaters of all stripes know that keeping your feet warm and dry is key to staying comfortable on the water. Gill Marine’s new Hydro Mid Boot is designed to provide day long comfort whether you’re racing, cruising, or fishing. The boot is made from 100% natural rubber compound and features a neoprene lining for thermal comfort and impact protection. A heel step makes it simple to take off, and the cushioned inner soles can be removed for cleaning. Remaining steady on-deck, the nonslip razor cut outer soles offer dependable grip on wet and muddy surfaces, and they are easy to clean.

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Small and robust, the Ultrasonic Portable Mini and Ultrasonic Portable Solar are handheld, Bluetooth, battery-powered wind meters that measure wind speed and direction with ultrasonic sensors that have no moving parts. You read that right — an anemometer with no moving parts. They come with a free app called Anemotracker that allows users to log data and customize their wind settings. And both units can be connected to a display or network: the NMEA Connect Plus gets the Portable Bluetooth signal and converts it to a wired or NMEA0183 or NMEA2000 signal. It also relays the Bluetooth signal and casts NMEA0183 data via WiFi. The Ultrasonic Portable Mini can be recharged on a wireless charging pad and has a female thread for easy mounting. The Ultrasonic Portable Solar is self-powered with a solar cell and can operate for up to 30 days in the dark and a year in sleep mode.

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Raymarine’s new YachtSense Link is a multi-purpose marine mobile router equipped with Raynet Ethernet ports, mobile broadband connectivity, and onboard Wi-Fi. The router allows crew and family to connect Raymarine’s Axiom displays along with phones, tablets, and PCs to a unified onboard network. YachtSense Link automatically switches between marina Wi-Fi and mobile networks to ensure you are always connected. You can also combine the YachtSense Link with the Raymarine mobile app for remote access to your Raymarine network and have the added security of remote GeoFence vessel monitoring. The Link features low-voltage digital switching/monitoring channels for controlling and monitoring onboard electrical devices like pumps, batteries, lighting, and more.

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One of history’s greatest naval commanders, Horatio Nelson, was constantly seasick. After 30 years at sea, he never overcame his seasickness.

Richard Henry Dana, while a law student at Harvard, shipped as a common sailor and made a voyage around Cape Horn to California and back, which he detailed in Two Years Before the Mast in 1840. He was admitted later to the Massachusetts bar and was distinguished in maritime law. His later works include The Seaman’s Friend and To Cuba and Back.

Joshua Slocum, the first person to sail around the world singlehanded, was born in Nova Scotia. In 1895 he embarked from Boston without capital on the sloop Spray, arriving back in Newport, Rhode Island, in 1898, having supported himself on the way by lecturing. He wrote his classic Sailing Alone Around the World in 1899. In 1909 he set out on a journey and was presumed ship-wrecked, having never been seen again and without his Spray being found.


1 Cabin that protrudes above a ship’s deck


7 Segment of a voyage

1 Cabin that protrudes above a ship's deck

9 Horse fodder

7 Segment of a voyage

9 Horse fodder

10 Short rope used to bind a cable to the "messenger"

11 Toward the rear of a boat

15 Itty bitty bit

16 Knot used to tie a rope to a fixed object

18 In progress

20 Material used for a fishing line


1 Type of small boat

2 Windlass

3 Garden tool

4 Rowboat equipment

5 Salt Lake city locale, abbr.

6 Navy officers

Sir Henry Morgan, the most famous of the Caribbean buccaneers, had been kidnapped as a child in Bristol, England, and was shipped to Barbados, where he joined the buccaneers. Morgan was so incensed when labeled a pirate that he sued publishers for libel, and won. Morgan insisted he had acted on behalf of his government. The publisher agreed to pay him $200 and to print apologies in future editions. Morgan went on to be governor of Jamaica and died a wealthy planter.

7 Current that goes with the wind, 2 words

8 ____whale (top edge of the hull)

12 As well

13 Managed

14 Line used to control either a mobile spar or the shape of a sail

George Vancouver sailed with Captain James Cook on Cook’s second and third voyages, and was promoted to Captain in 1794. He did survey work in Australia and New Zealand, but he’s best known for the extent and precision of his survey of the Pacific coast of North America, from San Francisco to Southeast Alaska.

27 Document listing the cargo, passengers and crew of a ship

17 The shell and framework of a ship

19 Procure

22 First responders, abbr.

23 Orcas, in the San Juan archipelago for example

The Arctic explorer Sir John Franklin joined the navy at 14 and was present at the Battles of Copenhagen (1801) and Trafalgar (1805). Knighted in 1829, he became governor of Van Diemen’s Land (Tasmania). Later, commanding an expedition to discover the Northwest Passage, his ships were overwhelmed by thick ice and he and his crew died.

48º NORTH 18 AUGUST 2023
10 Short rope used to bind a cable to the “messenger”
11 Toward the rear of a boat
15 Itty bitty bit
16 Knot used to tie a rope to a fixed object
18 In progress
20 Material used for a fishing line
21 Rope that controls a sail
24 General term for mast or boom
and crew of a ship
Move quickly
Popular Caribbean island
Rope that ties something off
Completely soaks
27 Document listing the cargo, passengers
the wind,
of the hull)
As well
Line used to control either a mobile spar or the shape of a sail
The shell and framework of a ship
First responders, abbr.
Orcas, in the San Juan archipelago
1 Type of small boat 2 Windlass 3 Garden tool 4 Rowboat equipment 5 Salt Lake city locale,
officers 7 Current that goes with
8 ____whale (top edge
for example
25 Blue sky color
26 Messy morsel at a barbecue 28 Inside 29 Precise 30 They flow in and out
32 Handles a bill
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36
» See solution on page 50
21 Rope that controls a sail
24 General term for mast or boom
31 Move quickly
33 Popular Caribbean island
34 Rope that ties something off 35 Directly 36 Completely soaks
29 Precise
25 Blue sky color 26 Messy morsel at a barbecue 28 Inside


Become a part of the 48° North crew! In addition to your magazine each month, with this exciting new subscription offering, you’ll also be supporting 48° North in a more meaningful way. But, warmed cockles are far from the only benefit. Others include:

• Discounts at Fisheries Supply Co.

• One free three-day to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival ($40 value)

• 10% off of Northwest Maritime Center classes, excluding Sailing Club

• Discounts on registration fees for events

• Cool bumper sticker and decals.

• $75/year (additional fees for First Class forwarding or International)

JUST THE MAGAZINE, PLEASE: Our standard subscription gets you 12 months of 48° North and its associated special publications (SARC, Setting Sail, and the Official R2AK Program).

• $39/year (additional fees for First Class forwarding or International)

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After writing about my solo Seventy48 adventure last year, I realized I was not alone. Any experience of this 70-mile human powered race from Tacoma to Port Townsend comes with the opportunity to tell the stories — and of particular interest to me are the stories of other women’s lives, adventures, tribulations, and victories. We all came to Tacoma on June 2, 2023 for different reasons, and our adventures would be very different. In sharing their who, what, why, when, and where, I hope readers find the resonance and inspiration in these passages that I do.

Although I almost dropped out at one point, I persevered and ended up doing my personal best, beating my old time by 2 hours and ringing the bell after 17 hours and 41 minutes. Prior to the race, I had excruciating lower back pain and was dealing with many worthy and distracting projects in other areas of life, so my winter had not been full of paddling and cross training. I had signed up for the Seventy48 at the 11th hour, and my back kept reminding me of the lack of training. The moment I considered pulling out, though, I thought of seeing my son at the finish line — that little man is my hero.

I am learning just how different every year of this race can be. I have heard many people say, “Wow, you all had such wonderful conditions!” but it felt like there was always one force against you, even with extensive voyage planning.

So, with my story giving a little context to who is sharing these perspectives from others, here are their stories…


This was the first time in five years in the existence of this race that a female has placed first in the Standing Up category. Seychelle Webster, a world class athlete and new mother from Melbourne Beach, Florida, crossed the finish line in 15 hours and 28 minutes. Her win touched so many of us who, up until that point, had participated but hadn’t seen that kind of recognition and accomplishment. After crossing the finish line she took her baby to her breast and kept “giving.”

Seychelle grew up in Florida, and her introduction to SUP was a desire to do yoga on a paddleboard. She first stepped onto a race board several years later, and now enjoys the challenge and journey associated with endurance paddling. “It’s a competition you do mostly with yourself rather than against others. It’s not about the will to be the best. It’s about the will to be your best and to just keep going. It makes you feel so strong and powerful.”

For Seychelle, the toughest point in the race was when it got dark. She thought we were going to have current with us, but it had felt like it had been against us for the majority of the way. “What got me through were several things. I am a deep optimist and at that time it was so gorgeous out. The full moon and the city lights and the bioluminescence, and I had company. And even though it was a head wind, I reminded myself it was a rather light headwind and that things could be worse. So I kept pushing.”

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This was Carol Shick’s first Seventy48, though she’s had a long career in outrigger paddling — competing, coaching, and sitting on boards and perpetuating the sport regionally and nationally. She said this of her first Seventy48: “This race taught me a lot about the mental and emotional aspects of taking on such an adventure, but it applies to any challenge in life.” She went on, “My approach to training for Seventy48 taught me how insecure I was in my understanding of my abilities and capabilities. During the race, I gave myself permission to find joy in the process and the moment.”

The toughest point for Carol was leaving Kingston and heading to Point No Point. She felt she had too much weight in the boat, some joint pain, and was falling asleep! As she considered these challenges, she was not fraught with anxiety or insecurity, doubt, or harsh criticism of herself. It “just was” she


Lindsey Virday of Seattle returned this year after completing the race in 2022 on a SUP. She mentioned that after years of being in the mountains, she started looking for ways to get out on the water on her own and with her daughter. One day early in the pandemic a friend let her try his paddleboard, which sparked her interest. “In July 2020, my daughter and I were at the beach down by the Ballard Elks, and Liza Shehan and Jessi Wasson (Ballard Elks paddlers) pulled up with their big, shiny SIC RS boards; and I approached them, introduced myself, and started asking questions, and that was it.”

Lindsey paddles more for its personal benefit than to train. “I have ADHD, and I choose to be unmedicated, so getting out on the water for long periods of time allows me to focus on one thing. It gives my brain a rest from all the distractions at home. I get so much joy out of being

Gig harbor, WA USA 253-851-2126 GHBOATS COM
Shelby Mass and the author at the Seventy48 finish line.

I was dehydrated. I was going through losses of important friendships in my life so I was not thinking clearly. My head was not in the game this year.” She recalls how difficult it was paddling through the wind. “There was a huge surf break at Kala Point and we were paddling through that and against the wind, and it felt impossible. I tried to shove more bars in my mouth while paddling on my knees and making inches of progression. It was too much. I stopped at Fort Townsend Park, and called it.”


Shelby Mass from Oak Harbor started paddling in Florida, where she was mostly doing it to “adventure around” different parts of the coast. The first time she saw someone training on a race board, she had to try it. “The more I am on the water, the more I want to explore and challenge myself,” she said.

Shelby is in her early 30s and works full-time, traveling extensively. About two months out from the race, she felt a huge disconnect between her mind and her body that she didn’t know how to fix. “At first, I was pretty frustrated with myself that my plan wasn’t working out and my solution was to let go of my original plan. It didn’t fit in with my reality.”

Once she let go, she could appreciate the training she was able to find the time for, and still give herself the rest she needed with “a lot less guilt.”

Shelby also went in the water during Seventy48. Getting herself back on her board, recovering, and having to strategize how she was going to continue was probably the most “rewarding part of the event” for her. “The difficulty came later that night when my mental fatigue hit, but physically I was still facing challenging conditions. I focused on the little things around me, like the beautiful moon rise, and let myself appreciate how small my challenges really were. Ultimately, I knew I was going to make it. “Shelby did make it, coming in strong after 38 hours and 49 minutes.

Whether the thought of an adventure race makes you think “What’s the big deal?” or “I could never imagine…”, the truth is you never know what anyone’s path looks or feels like. Whatever race anyone ended up completing, it was theirs and theirs alone. There’s such inspiration in each story, and every single one of these women are my role models.

Erica Lichty is the founder of the SEASTR, a non-profit that promotes women who adventure in the Pacific Northwest. Check out:

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“Endurance paddling lights me up because it’s a chance to experience different environments and to challenge myself along the way... I am only content when I am facing a challenge, and there is so much that goes into a long paddle. I have learned much about the water and feel… a part of it every time I go out.” - Shelby Mass
Lindsey Virday paddles for physical and mental health.
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Many of us have the dream of taking our boats off-grid or offshore. The feeling of sailing beyond the lines of civilization is invigorating, and our curiosity and desire for exploration and discovery can be unstoppable. But leaving the dock and venturing afar requires readying the boat and crew for the realities of being beyond the reach of quick assistance. It is a big responsibility.

In the May 2023 issue of 48° North I wrote about what spares you should carry for coastal cruising, so you can consider this article’s list as an add-on to everything previously mentioned.

When heading out cruising to remote areas where there is limited or no help from a mechanic or shop for miles and days, you simply cannot afford to be stranded. This type of cruising differs greatly from near coastal cruising because the parts, tools, equipment, and know-how for repair can’t come from an outside source — you’ve got to own it all! Accordingly, based on my experiences on the ocean aboard commercial ships, as well as my own recreational vessels, here’s a list you can use as a building block for getting prepared.


While this is not a tangible “thing” to stow away under the settee or in a toolbox, it is one of the most critical things you can do to make sure you can fix or manage whatever emergency may happen — even if that means understanding your systems well enough to jury-rig it to get to a safe location.

It is a great idea to take a recreational engine, plumbing, and electrical class as a starting point. Trace your systems and know where and what everything is, that way you can repair it underway. Read a good book on vessel systems, and form an understanding of why these systems are set up the way they are; many cruisers include at least one such book in their on-board library. On the open ocean, a mechanic may not be there (unless you have a satellite phone or Starlink), so you will be the one diagnosing and enacting the repair yourself, and if you can’t do it — who will? And at what expense?


For long-distance cruising, you will

want to have a well-rounded tool kit for all the repairs you think you may have onboard. Get yourself a complete socket set that does not skip sizes and a variety of ratchets — stubby, extra-long, anglehead, and others. A complete SAE and metric wrench set is critical too. Don’t forget your electrical tools such as a crimper, stripper, butane heat gun, wire cutters, and multimeter for any electrical failures that can take place underway.

If your engine has any odd tool requirements such as requiring a specialty engine-turning tool, impeller puller tool, injector puller tool, or gear pullers, then make sure to have these onboard as well for more involved repairs. Check with your regular mechanic or an engine dealer who is most familiar with your engine to see if any speciality tools are required for what you might have to do.

Having a portable vice that can be mounted to the boat somewhere is a super helpful tool for a lot of repairs, such as rebuilding a pump, assembling plumbing, and more. A good variety of pliers, vice-grips, screwdrivers, pry-bars, heel bars, and a small scissor jack will be helpful too. I carry all of these items onboard when I travel aboard my boat,

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just as I do when I work onboard clients’ vessels. I can do 98% of repairs with what I carry in my handheld toolbox, including rebuilding most of my engine.


A common question I get is what specifically to carry for the engine, and this of course varies based on where you plan to go or how long you will be out on your own. I always recommend carrying more than you think you will need, within the limits of what you can afford. Many friends of mine have taken trips down the coast to Mexico, across the ocean, up to Alaska, or around Vancouver Island, and a good general list for a trip like this includes an extra starter, alternator, injectors, turbo (if equipped), engine

hoses, motor mounts, propeller, complete engine gasket set, heat exchanger, rigid fuel lines, rigid oil lines (if equipped), oil cooler(s), and a variety of marine grade electrical cable and connectors/lugs.

For those of you who are traveling the world for long amounts of time, you will eventually need everything that you would at home. If you are cruising for a month, you probably don’t need everything on the list if you have been diligent in servicing and checking these items prior to leaving. This includes having your engine pressure tested and your heat exchanger serviced — that way you know it won’t fail two weeks into your voyage.


If you are planning a trip around Vancouver Island for two months, do your research and locate different locations along your route where you could stop by if needed. For example, if you have a Yanmar engine, identify Yanmar dealers and maybe call them and see what they do and whether they can ship to different ports.

For trips to places like Mexico, or farther, finding an engine dealer will become harder, so will finding even the most basic spare parts, such as marine grade wiring… or any wiring for that matter! I flew to Mexico one year to rewire a sailboat and when we ran out of what we had brought with us, we were forced to try and find it in town. It was not an easy venture and we ended up having to ship things to Arizona and drive north to get them. Sometimes, a friend can help you order things if you

are far away from home, but paying the shipping and tariffs can get expensive for even for the most basic things — hence, the more you have, the better off you'll be.


For emergency repairs where parts can’t be accessed or it just needs to be a band-aid to get you to a safe port, having a good box of sealants and band-aid stuff such as RTV gasket maker, anti-seize, Sil-glyde, rescue tape, extra hoses, extra wire, PB blaster, PTFE thread sealant, fire hose scraps, and bronze fittings can be really helpful. Completing repairs properly while at your home port will prevent a lot of these “quick fixes”, but if you need to, you can patch something up and continue on. These are also helpful items for regular repairs too!

Being prepared to handle whatever comes your way will make for a fun and safe trip. No one wants to pay the penalty of becoming stranded or putting themselves in danger, especially when those things happen because of a lack of preparation. Try to think as far ahead as you can for whatever you plan on doing — equip the boat and have checkpoints along the way. Prepare the engine and electrical as much as you can before you leave. Learn as much as you can about your vessel and the systems onboard, then get out there and explore!

Meredith Anderson is the owner of Meredith’s Marine Services, where she operates a mobile mechanic service and teaches handson marine diesel classes to groups and in private classes aboard clients' own vessels.

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The author can rebuild most of an engine with what fits in a handheld tool bag, and so could you! Heading far afield is great, but be prepared! Educating yourself can be just as important as having the correct spare parts. Here the author gives a seminar at the Seattle Boat Show.


Iwas patting out some bread dough on the floorboards of Row Bird when a voice called from above, “Are you making bannock down there?”

Although I love making bread and consider the final product heavenly, I knew this was no divine intervention. It took a moment to figure out where the voice was coming from, but I finally located the source on the bridge of a trawler moored on the dock diagonally from me.

“What’s that?” I asked an older, mustachioed man.

“You know, that bread Boy Scouts make on camping trips.”

That’s exactly what I was baking. Much like a Scout, I felt prepared… for dinner, anyway. With my homemade mix, I can have fresh bread anytime, whether I’m out for a day or a month.

Though my bread making has been a success, my early attempts at cooking on small boats were less so. I relied on packaged items familiar to me from backpacking, like freezedried stews and boil-to-cook rice pouches. The high price of these freeze-dried packages offended my thrifty sensibilities, and the high sodium content was unappealing. Besides, there’s little penalty to carrying heavy things on a boat, so the lighter weight didn’t really justify the cost.

Still, I did want to keep my meal prep simple and less bulky.

I found that the foil pouches containing pre-cooked Indian or Asian food were modest in price, and when warmed up and poured onto a plate, they actually resembled the food I ate at home, so these became a staple of my early sailing trips.

Eventually, I settled on a balance of homemade or preprepped items brought from home, along with goods from the grocery store. Food is one of the great joys of life, and boating another; so I’m unwilling to cut corners when I’m out sailing, or eat things that merely provide fuel. At the same time, I don’t go on a cruise to replicate my land-based life, so my galley doesn’t need to imitate the kitchen at home. Some small-boat sailors haul along a thoroughly stocked cook box filled with oil, spices, plates, and other essentials, but I’ve always worried that a capsize, or a wave dumping in an open boat, will render its contents useless. I prefer the flexibility and certainty of intact provisions, so I keep my food and gear in dry bags and boxes stowed away in lockers. And with a bit of planning, I am able to eat three solid, tasty meals per day.

Breakfast is straight forward. First I fire up the camp stove — I carry an isobutane-powered backpacking model with a grate and an adjustable flame control. Step one: Fill the pot and boil water for tea. And what’s tea without milk? There’s no room for

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a fridge aboard my boats, so a screw-top jar of powdered milk does the trick nicely and never spoils. While the tea steeps, I start my quick-cooking rolled oats. It’s easy to carry a week’s worth of oatmeal, along with everything I need to customize it; and it’s an inexpensive meal, filling, and energy-rich. I stir some local honey and homemade dried fruit into the pot and lounge in the cockpit, savoring the warmth, peering off the stern, and considering the possibilities of the day ahead.

By lunchtime, I’ve been rowing or actively sailing for a few hours. I may have scarfed down a granola bar or handful of nuts mid-morning, but I’ll be hungry and in no mood to actually cook. However, hove to, or with the oars stowed, an easy lunch will be ready soon enough. At the start of each trip I tuck a loaf of sliced whole wheat bread in a locker where it can’t be accidentally crushed. If I want “toasted” bread, I’ll leave a few slices in the sun to dry out on the thwart. On a summer cruise, fresh, hopefully homegrown, tomatoes and a tiny salt and pepper shaker are stowed nearby. Cheese and maybe some fresh pesto complete my sandwich.

I don’t have a fridge aboard, but my bilge is separated from the water by just a quarter-inch thick plank. When placed atop the plank, a carefully wrapped block of hard cheese stays fresh thanks to the adjacent cold water. Parmesan or gouda are my favorites, though I won’t turn up my nose at a Manchego. This sandwich combination is elegantly simple and endlessly satisfying. For variety, peanut butter and honey is a nice change. Fresh fruit, also stored in the dark cool zone, rounds out lunch.

At dinner, I might take more time to assemble a meal. Perhaps in the morning I made dough from my homemade bread mix (flour, salt, and instant yeast), kneaded it to the right consistency, and placed it in a plastic container to slowly rise during the day. Around dinner time, I’ll divide the dough into golf-ball size pieces, pat each one flat, then bake them in a pan over my camp stove. Eaten with chick peas heated in a jarred Indian simmer sauce (plus some extra fresh cut garlic), I’ve got a simple, filling dinner. If I’m feeling less proactive, I’ll use masa to quickly make and cook palm-sized tortillas and eat them with canned beans, chopped tomatoes, onion, and Mexican spices.

If the weather is looking poor, or I have a long day ahead, I won’t want to cook at dinner time, but I’ll still want a warm, comforting meal: enter Thermos cooking. Right after breakfast,

while the camp stove is still out, I boil water and add a mix of red lentils, which cook faster than the brown ones, spices and pasta, letting it simmer for a few minutes. Then I quickly pour it all into my tall, old-school Thermos. Once I seal the lid, there’s no need to stir, as each tack does that for me. The Thermos is an underrated marvel of technology; 8 to 10 hours later, when I’m exhausted and cold, my lentil soup is perfectly cooked and still plenty hot.

As a sailor, I have learned to watch the weather and change course, and so it goes with eating on the water. There are times when I revert to uninspired, easy meals, like a simple can of chili from the grocery store. And if I’m near town, few pleasures are greater than wading ashore in my knee boots and discovering a quaint restaurant or rounding up hand-made creations from a bakery.

Whether my meals are store-bought or cooked aboard, eating on a small boat is an exercise in keeping things simple, but never skimping. I may no longer be a Boy Scout, but when it comes to good eating, I believe in being prepared — and flexible.

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Bruce Bateau sails and rows traditional boats with a modern twist in Portland, Oregon. His stories and adventures can be found at The author’s wife, Kate, prepares the flatbread dough with an improvised rolling pin: a wine bottle. The finished flatbread. Its secret flavor ingredient is powdered milk. Cooking chickpea curry at Jones Island, with a heat reflector under the stove to protect the dock.


Several days into our thus-far blissful and easy summer cruise on our new-to-us C-Dory 25, Sea Lab, we landed in Edmonds to refuel. My partner in life and cruising, Tekla, did a sailorly job of securing us to the dock and we moved efficiently through the stop. This was our first long cruise with the boat and we were eagerly anticipating our opportunity to explore more of the San Juan Islands thanks to our increased pace of travel — novel for us after cruising sailboats for 20 years. Back on the water, we raced to an old favorite — Whidbey Island’s port of Langley — only to find the marina completely full. It was windy, and the

bouncy conditions in the bay discouraged us from anchoring for the night. The only thing to do was to continue north and look for a more sheltered spot.

The northerly wind was predicted to continue with deteriorating weather, so we were a little anxious about finding a good spot along Saratoga Passage. We’ve experienced some rough water through there, and we were not looking forward to a turbulent night with little sleep. We poked into Elgar Bay on the Camano Island side and it didn’t seem protected enough. We looked in at Holmes Harbor and it seemed like a long way back to where protection would be. “Why not just keep on to Oak Harbor?” Tekla suggested, and the decision was made. As longtime sailboat cruisers, it hadn’t taken us long to grow accustomed to our new speedy

mode on the water, so why not use it?

With our previous boats, we would have been beating up the passage and would have arrived very late in Oak Harbor. In Sea Lab, we can go straight there but, boy howdy, when the sea gets choppy the speed doesn’t work. Well, maybe it works but we can’t take the pounding. The C-Dory is shaped to be stable and plane at a low speed, but it has nearly zero deadrise at the transom so the hull is not built to be comfortable at speed in rough water like a deep-V. Travel is still rapid though, compared to our other transits of these waters. We could still make 8-10 knots in the direction of our destination, so I can’t complain.

We were about 3 miles from the first buoy marking the long entry to Oak Harbor when suddenly the sound of a

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loud buzzer coincided with the engine slowing to idle speed. What the heck? I shut the motor down and let it rest while we collected our thoughts. It started back up with the first turn of the key but wouldn’t go above idle. Paging through the engine manual, I discovered that this condition arises as an overheat protection, so it was time to run the kicker.

I had started the 15-hp kicker only once before, but this time I needed it. I donned my PFD and went back to lower the motor and get it going. Choking and pulling the starter rope got it going without too much trouble; but the twist throttle was made finicky by some corrosion on the cable connection. The motor would either race or die from idling too slowly. I was finally able to get it into gear and get going forward at just about sailboat speed.

It had not occurred to me yet that I could lock the steering on the little motor and steer from the helm using the big motor as rudder, so I stood at the stern hand-steering, the wind and waves spraying me as we puttered along. The entrance to Oak Harbor always feels long,

and we finally made it to the marina, taking a spot just inside the breakwater. After we got settled into our slip, I took the engine cover off of our primary Yamaha outboard to see if maybe the problem had a simple explanation. That happens, right? I was pretty well versed in the troubleshooting and repair of the old Yanmar on our Cal 27, Moon Dance, so I had to give this a shot. Under the engine cover, a baffling array of carburetors, hoses, and wiring was packed into an amazingly small space. If I was going to fix anything, it had better be an obvious problem with an easy repair. Hmm… I found a bad looking connection terminal that goes to the thermostat sender. Suspicious. I cut the wire, and replaced it with a better connector we had in our kit, with the audacious hope that the problem was solved.

Being Saturday night in the navy town where I had been stationed in the late 1970s, I figured we were in for a good time. Blithely, we proceeded into town for dinner and a beer where I could tell Tekla some of my “sea stories” of the time I spent here, while feeling modestly assured we could make the slack through

Deception Pass in the morning.

In the morning after coffee, I apprehensively turned the key, she started right up, and we let go of the cleats. Idling out of the harbor everything seemed normal and, once we were in the lane away from the bay, I pressed the throttle forward and brought Sea Lab up on a plane. We were about to turn north at the channel marker, and my apprehension was just beginning to ease, when the buzzer went off and the motor shut back down to idle. The pit of despair yawned before me. I shut the motor down and went back to lower the kicker and we slow-motored our way back into the slip we had left an hour before.

There’s no outboard help to be found in Oak Harbor on a Sunday, so we enjoyed the day — hey, we were on vacation! We wandered off the marina grounds and had a great time in town, first at the Pacific Northwest Naval Air Museum and then at Penn Cove Brewing Company. Being stranded with a malfunctioning outboard is better with beer.

First thing Monday morning, we went looking for engine help. The kind attendant at the Oak Harbor Marina office

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If I was going to fix anything, it had better be an obvious problem with an easy repair.
Unfortunately, replacing the bad connector didn’t solve the problem. Sea Lab comes out of the water in Oak Harbor on the yard’s hydraulic trailer.

directed us to Max the marine mechanic. In a quick phone conversation with him, we determined that he could be there as soon as we could get the boat out of the water and blocked into the yard. We walked to the boatyard and were set-up for immediate haulout, so we kickermotored Sea Lab over. We were met by a contraption straight out of a Mad Max movie — an ancient semi-truck hooked up to a trailer with all kinds of hydraulic actuators being backed slowly into the water. With the soundtrack of whirring actuators, Sea Lab was lifted onto the trailer and pulled out.

Max arrived a short time later and we talked as he began taking things apart. He thought the most likely problem was the thermostat, and had already ordered a thermostat, sensor, and impeller from the parts place in Mount Vernon. Max mused that it looked like someone had been chasing this problem before, as the parts he removed seemed relatively new and the engine looked well maintained in general. When everything was reassembled and we had settled our bills, they hauled us back to the water with hopes that our problems were solved.

We headed out for a sea trial and everything seemed to work, but it was late in the day and, with a small craft advisory forecast, we turned back to the marina for one more night in the safe haven and one last crack at Penn Cove Brewing.

Tuesday morning dawned drizzly and dark gray, but with a clearing forecast. We had decided to forego Deception Pass and try the Swinomish Channel, so we would be closer to the marine services in Anacortes should we encounter further trouble. After coffee had brightened our day a little, we tanked up on fuel and made our way to the channel markers across Saratoga Passage. We lined up on the day markers indicating the channel entrance and headed in — so far, so good with the motor. The weather dried up as we arrived at Cap Sante Marina, and we prepared for an afternoon of exploring Anacortes.

The next morning, we awoke to fine weather and were ready to finally arrive in the islands. With the motor’s reassuring performance the day before, we felt confident about running around in the islands for a week and were really looking forward to it. Sea Lab felt good as we turned north from Guemes Channel into Bellingham Channel and across to Eagle Harbor on Cypress Island. We grabbed an open state park buoy, had a quick lunch, and launched the kayaks to go in for some much needed exercise.

The hiking on Cypress was as good as we remembered. We made the summit of Eagle Cliff and took in the breathtaking view of the islands to the west. On the way down, we checked out Smugglers Cove and found it deserted and decided

to linger there. We love sitting on the fabulous gravel beaches of the San Juans just to watch the water flow by and poke through the gravel.

We finally decided it was time to return to Sea Lab and get some dinner going, and we kayaked back to the buoy where she was tethered. There is a small swim step on the port side to clamber onto for boarding and I always go first so I can help Tim Tim, our sailor dog, back aboard since he rides with Tekla in her kayak. He’s pretty good at making the transition, but I always want to be there to help him in case he needs it. After he was on board, I gave Tekla a hand, but this transition is awkward and we’ve only done it a couple of times on this boat and we haven’t settled into a routine with it. All of a sudden, the kayak slipped out from under her like a banana peel under a clown and in she went! From the water, getting aboard was much easier because she could pull herself onto the boarding ladder and up onto the step, unharmed but wet and salty. In our previous twentysome years of boating, we’ve never had anyone go into the water accidentally and we always wear PFDs when the possibility of going overboard exists. We were prepared, but it was still a big surprise and now we had a pile of soggy, salty clothes to dry.

Everything was wetter the next morning, like it usually is in the cool

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Beach time at Skull Island. A dynamic kayaking duo, Tekla and Tim Tim.

marine environment. We moved along on our loosely planned journey, headed west and north, refueling at Blakely Marina. We bucked the fading ebb back through Peavine Pass thinking about making the outer island of Clark or Plan B: Sucia. Since we expected things to be crowded for Labor Day, there would be plenty of room at Sucia.

Following the east shore of Orcas, we passed between it and tiny Doe Island with its tiny dock and, to our surprise, one side of the dock was empty. We had never stayed here before, as every time we had passed the dock was full. So, we pulled in and tied up to meet our new neighbors, Vernon and Shirley, on their Canoe Cove 45 with a large crew of friendly and boisterous grandkids. It’s great to see curious kids in this environment learning new things around every corner.

Doe Island was a treat and is now another one of our favorite spots. We spent two nights, hiked the whole island, and explored every beach both on foot and by kayak. The currents in the pass between Doe and Orcas are great fun to ride in kayaks.

It was Saturday night and, looking at the chartbook over dinner, we thought we should try our Clark/Sucia plan the next day. We got an early start on Sunday morning, and arrived at Clark to find it full; so on we went to Sucia and settled into Snoring Bay with one other boat, a big beautiful sailing catamaran. Right away, we got the kayaks in the water and brought Tim Tim in for his relief tour of the beach and then continued our paddle tour of Snoring Bay with its crazy beautiful rock formations against soft blue late summer sky.

We were at the point of our summer

cruise where we had to start cruising toward home, but we had one more spot we really wanted to try. In the old but fabulous book Gunkholing in the San Juan Islands, Jo Bailey and Carl Nyberg include a description of anchoring behind Skull Island at the very head of West Sound in Massacre Bay. It’s shallow and rocky there, and we had tried it twice before in our sailboat and both times chickened out as the tide began to fall and the rocks began to show. Drawing only one foot of water on Sea Lab, we decided this anchorage would be a cinch, so we pointed our bow in that direction in calm sunny weather and smooth water.

On our way from Sucia, we needed to stop for fuel and re-supply in Deer Harbor, where they have a nice little grocery adjacent to the fuel dock. We climbed the plank for food and found that late season grocery shopping in the marina is quite limited. It turns out they let their stock run low because their customer base all leaves after Labor Day.

With ample additions to our tanks and meager ones to our larder, we had favorable current through Pole Pass and rounded north into West Sound. We arrived in Massacre Bay early in the afternoon and no one was in our spot. We passed through a few times sounding where the rocks were, picked our spot, and pushed the button. I felt the anchor get a good dig, it was fantastic weather, and there had been no more motor troubles, plus there was a little left in that box of Syrah. Glory days!

We circumnavigated the island in the kayaks before landing on the broken shell beach and exploring on foot. It’s difficult to describe the feeling of being on a tiny, deserted island with nothing to worry about surrounded by a world full of trouble. I relish every second of it.

After sleeping like babies in our rocking crib, we lingered in the morning to time our arrival at Deception Pass correctly, before continuing back to Langley for our last night. We hoped for a nice dinner in town and a shower before pulling Sea Lab out of the water the next day in Port Townsend. We just weren’t ready for a crossing of the Strait of Juan de Fuca in Sea Lab. Everything was nice and easy through the pass and we made Langley in plenty of time to realize our plans, after a

56 nautical mile run — distance we never would have contemplated sailing.

After casting off from Langley, we were rounding the southern end of Whidbey when the buzzer sounded and the engine spun down to idle. Max had told me, if it happened again, to just let it idle and cool down and that’s what I did. Back to sailing speed. At least this time, I knew what was going on and it didn’t spike my anxiety. We idled along for a while, and I tried running back up on plane and it went… for a minute. After a couple more cycles of heating up and cooling off I found the speed I could keep without the sensor shutting me down: 6 knots. Not bad. We spent 20 years below 6 knots and loved every minute; another couple hours to make Port Townsend was all part of the trip. The weather was beautiful, and we enjoyed favorable current through the Port Townsend cut to round out the journey. My cruising partner was by my side and all was well on the water.

In the weeks that followed, a boating friend told me about someone who had chased that same problem with an outboard of similar size, and it had turned out to be a cooling passageway that had become partially blocked by a piece of rubber from the impeller. Tekla and I had a great summer cruise, but the worry and potential for future engine failure led us to determine the best option was to repower. Yes, it was expensive, but we did it and our cruising adventures since have been worry free!

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Dennis and his mate, Tekla, reside in Auburn, WA and now keep Sea Lab in the water at Tyee Marina.
We spent 20 years below 6 knots and loved every minute; another couple hours to make Port Townsend was all part of the trip.

Ihad first heard about McKayla from a friend of mine saying, “You have to meet her, she’s going to be the first transwoman* to circumnavigate the globe solo.” Anytime I hear about another woman doing some badass adventuring, I want to learn more, and I like to share what I learn. This intrepid woman begins her epic journey around the globe in August 2023. That’s right, she’s embarking from the Pacific Northwest right now, and you can watch and support her as she progresses.


I first ran into McKayla in Friday Harbor by chance in 2022. This was shortly after her boat, Swirl, hit a behemoth waterlogged 30-foot-by-5-foot log ghost-floating a foot below the surface at at Turn Point around Turn Island in San Juan Channel. She was headed home to Shipyard Cove, and first saw the log hovering below her bow with no time to dodge.

Horrifyingly, the massive trunk rolled down her hull, bounced off her keel, and with no skeg, got stuck between keel and rudder. It bent her 2.5inch rudder shaft and stuck the rudder hard to starboard. This made the 1977 Clark San Juan 30 pull in port circles, dragging the giant log, which was crashing against the hull in the choppy waves. McKayla was fearful her prop skeg would punch a hole through the boat, and quickly put out a Pan-Pan.

Two sailboats came to assist, and McKayla was able to contact her good friends Deb Fritz and Andrew DiRienzo who lead the award-winning Friday Harbor TowBoat US operation. As she waited for the tow, Swirl floated toward the shores of Lopez Island. McKayla tried to push the log off with a boat hook, but it was like pushing on solid land. She watched the depth and shore, ready to drop an anchor if needed. Eventually, the log drifted off and her tow arrived. What struck me most as McKayla told me the full story was how calm she was recollecting it. She went through each detail methodically and managed it all in textbook fashion. I asked her if she had panicked or was anxious at all. She said, “On the way back, after I was safely side-tied to the towboat I started to ask myself, ‘What could I have done differently?’ Andrew saw me quietly sitting there, and without any prompt

*We understand that many in the trans community prefer trans woman or trans man as two words, instead of a single compound word; some may find the single word usage offensive. After discussing with McKayla, she prefers transwoman as a single word, and we have deferred to her preference in this article.

leaned over and said loudly, ‘McKayla, there is nothing you could have done differently, this just happens sometimes, and it sucks.’ Then, I cried.”


McKayla is no stranger to adrenaline and high crisis situations. She has a story like many sailors I know, living many lives rolled into one, all converging at the right time on a boat. She grew up on a rural farm in Northern California with her electrical engineer grandfather; with this start, she learned to build things. She was an sound engineer in the theater world for venues large and small. She hiked the Pacific Crest Trail. And fascinatingly, McKayla was a semi-professional rock climber on her way to becoming a pro before a rotator cuff injury in 2018.

Planning the impossible, designing with purpose and intention, and knowing how to adapt and fix things in moments of necessity have given her the skill sets needed to learn to sail and completely refit her boat for a circumnavigation in an impressive three years. She has been thoughtful in the layout, rigging, and needs for her boat and journey. She has consulted with and learned from many seasoned and professional mariners and gained support in the community living aboard in the San Juan Islands.


One thing I always wonder about is how people end up on a boat and how they decide what they are going to do with it. McKayla grew up visiting a wealthy uncle in Mexico every summer who had a Hunter 46 and docked it at all the best resorts. She laughed as she told me, “Everything is pristine and beautiful and works at least 70% of the time in that scene. It was my intro into sailing, it was amazing, and I knew I had zero chance I would ever get to do that.”

Over the years, she periodically investigated sailing and boats, but the vessel or the timing was never right. It wasn’t until her injury forced her out of climbing, and she felt lost without a life passion or direction, that sailing came back into view. A friend randomly approached her about Swirl in 2020. She felt sailing was not only accessible for her, but could be her new thing, something to pursue and keep going, especially during a global pandemic.


The circumnavigation idea only came after she had been working and living on the boat a while. She was contemplating selling the boat and even listed it once. She then mused, “I love living on the boat, I love sailing, but I don’t think this is forever. I miss the mountains a lot.” As she reflected further, she thought

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McKayla aboard Swirl.

about other times in her life where she missed opportunities and was disappointed.

“So, I asked myself, ‘Would I have wasted an opportunity of the time and effort of learning how to sail by not doing something big with it?’ A lot of people would be happy with the lifestyle of living on the boat in the San Juans for three years and learning to sail. I like this boat, I’ve put a lot of effort into her.” She considered all the various routes, her boat design, and boat history. She has documentation that Swirl went through the Panama Canal in 1986 and was shipped back to the Pacific Northwest in 1989 from Maine. The boat has done big sailing before.

At first, McKayla thought about circumnavigating Vancouver Island — a big trip, but not enticing for her. She was drawn to the Pacific Circuit, but she estimated that her boat with its fin

keel is too finicky and is not the right boat for those waters. “When you research trips there are many, and then there is the big one. The whole gosh darn thing!”

She plans on going south along the West Coast to start, with her first big, planned jump being from Neah Bay to San Diego. From Central America, she hopes to sail to Hiva Oa and through the South Pacific before making her way through Southeast Asia. She’ll continue through the Indian and South Atlantic oceans, and plans to return via the Panama Canal.


She was hesitant at first about going offshore, but after cruising for 27 days in British Columbia this past January — 22 of them sailing in all conditions, including a few days sailing non-stop to experience sleep shifts — she feels ready. “I was dodging ferries and large traffic, and drifting island to island in an attempt to use as little fuel as possible. I used 8 gallons of fuel in all that time, including the tender going to shore.”

For those of us who sail avidly, we know McKayla nailed it when she said, “The coolest part about sailing in the Pacific Northwest is you can go out sailing in the most casual or gnarly conditions possible. It’s all here in our backyard. It’s been powerful living, sailing, and doing shakedowns here. My advice is to take advantage of our good nasty weather, it gets proper rough up here, go out in it and learn.”


For going offshore, McKayla has focused her learning on light wind sailing so as not to starve, and heavy weather sailing so as not to sink. She also has rigged the boat for rough weather with a hard top dodger, an impressive sail inventory, the addition of an inner forestay, and completely rebuilt the interior, glassing it all and tabbing to the hull. This included adding a bulkhead in the cockpit sole for stability. And she got a new rudder that is light and modern. She proudly said, “Swirl is almost 50 years old now, and there is no reason she won’t make it to 100.”

A few other impressive facts about her refit are that she has no inboard engine and is only taking her 2021 Mercury 6-horsepower outboard, for both boat and dinghy; and she also has a sculling oar. She runs all her energy off solar she designed and wired herself. She thinks the boat might have been stripped down by a previous owner for the Race to Alaska, as it was extra light with no holding tanks of any kind aboard. This was great for her to have an empty slate and create an environment specialized for her intended use.


For McKayla, even in her childhood, exploration has been and is always the goal. From our interview, her passion for doing new things, pushing for hard things, and learning from successes and failures along the way is the focal point. Being an

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McKayla adding hanks to her 97% partially battened upwind jib. She is taking 9 sails with her across the globe.
“When you research trips there are many, and then there is the big one. The whole gosh darn thing!”

introvert, representing openly as a thriving transwoman living her dreams is a generosity she shares with others for inspiration and hope.

What she is most excited for are “big offshore passages to push myself in that way, for boredom and solitude, to not have anyone to talk to and have books to read. I want to come back more feral than I am now. I want to be a wilder and saltier woman.”

When I asked about haters or push back, McKayla says that our Pacific Northwest community has been mostly great. Any negativity has been solely from the internet trolls, which she pays no heed to. She wisely said, “I don’t succeed in everything I set out to do. The order of magnitude I have of failed projects versus successful projects is insane. To the folks saying I can’t do it and that I won’t succeed. I say, ‘you might be right, maybe I can’t do this. But that will in no way stop me trying.’’’


While sailors often do amazing things on the water solo or shorthanded, one of the aspects of sailing I love the most is the camaraderie and sharing of skills, knowledge, and encouraging support that comes along the way within our community. For those as excited as I am to wish her bon voyage, McKayla has a website and patreon page to track the voyage and raise funds for her epic adventure. She posts regularly about her experiences. I would love it if other women sailors and allies in the area pitched in to support a sister as she makes a big left turn out of Washington this month.

Jenn Harkness is a human being, artist, coach, mental health therapist, writer, friend, mermaid, student of life and lover of all shine and sparkle. She owns Poop Deck, a 1976 Ranger 29 she refit herself. You can follow her adventures and insights about feminism, diversity, mental health, and sailing over at

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McKayla and Jenn in February 2023 at the Port of Friday Harbor.


When the Race to Alaska fleet took to the water in Port Townsend on June 5, 2023, the sunrise was having a beauty face-off with the full moonset in the western sky over the Olympics.

All around, a group of people — each of whom were equal parts ordinary and remarkable, and who enviably (if questionably) had put their lives on hold to go ‘Ketchikan or bust’ — pulled sheets and oars, pressed on pedals and paddles, and began their adventures as the Ukrainian national anthem blared and a cannon boomed.

The stories of the illustrious, often irreverent, relentlessly fascinating engineless adventure race would be written in the coming days and weeks but, as ever, it was a memorable scene in familiar waters that sent them off.

By now, you almost certainly know that Team We Brake for Whales — co-skippered by Jeanne Goussev (skipper of 2018 winner, Team Sail Like a Girl) and her husband, Evgeniy — endured rough, mostly upwind conditions and won the $10,000 and all the bragging rights. You probably know that the sometimes-scantily-clad international crew of Team Budgie Smugglers sailed their Shaw 34 Catamaran to take the soughtafter second-place prize of steak knives. Like any good story, however, there’s so much more than just the headlines. Here’s a nautical potpourri that hits a few favorite treads from the R2AK 2023 tapestry.

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Team We Brake for Whales at the start of Race to Alaska. Photo by Joe Cline. Photo by Jim Meyers.


The first leg started with more breeze than forecast, and a prediction that it would be short lived. The ‘Proving Ground’ leg, about 40 miles from the start line in Port Townsend across the Strait of Juan de Fuca might not seem like much to the group that led the way, but for the small craft, it is no joke. The eight sailors of Team We Brake for Whales showed their excellent form, and were the first across. They were followed closely by several of the probably-faster multihulls, several of which were being sailed by genuinely world-class sailors like Bill Hardesty and Tanguy de Lamotte.

The real story of the proving ground, however, was the group that — because of equipment issues, over-confidence in the seemingly generous 36-hour time limit, or the perhaps actual speed or skill deficits — was near, but not into, Victoria Harbour when the tide switched to a ripping flood and the breeze went from light to zero. This group was swept past their would-be destination and north up Haro Strait. Most would eventually slog back to complete the leg, but memorably one team couldn’t swing it.

Team Jackalope called for a tow minutes before the time limit when it became clear they wouldn’t make it. Dejected, they arrived at the dock ready to process how much shorter their trip would be than they hoped and planned. In a moment of pure R2AK community spirit, the two sailors from Jackalope were reluctantly dragged to the skipper’s meeting, where they were given a heroes’ welcome with a standing ovation from hundreds of their fellow racers and race officials.

The Jackalope story feels important due to the spirit of inspiration, affection, and admiration it displays between competitors in Race To Alaska. I liken it to the way artists raise the level between one another not through competition, but because they love the work and the artistry of it, and the fellow humans expressing themselves in similar but unique fashions. Different from any other boat race I know, R2AK racers are fans of their competitors. They are adventure artists, deriving energy, excitement, and inspiration from what their peers are doing.


When the racers sprinted down the gangway on their way to the humanpowered parade out of Victoria Harbour, they were greeted with splendid conditions. Raising sails at the end of the Inner Harbour, the fastest boats quickly showed what they could do in the southerly breeze that hovered in the midteens. None of the six pre-approved boats chose the outside route option in 2023, deterred by the burly forecast of 30-40 knot northerlies, but they were chewing up the miles on the inside. There was much calculator mashing at Race High Command, as the wonder quickly arose — was this to be the quickest R2AK ever? Could we get a media boat to Seymour Narrows fast enough, did we need to adjust flights to Ketchikan? Within 24 hours, however, different realities set in.

The fastest group of sailboats had extended into the northern reaches of the Strait of Georgia, before being stymied by fading breeze. Meanwhile, the conditions that afforded them all those miles left some of the smaller craft smarting.

Immediate fan favorites, the couple aboard the Hobie Mirage Adventure Island of Team Toybox Express, Niko and Dawson, limped to shore after swamping the main hull of their kayak-trimaran. While celebrating the anniversary of the day they met, they sat in seawater and had a “hand on the EPIRB and a hand on the Garmin.” They decided “We’re just fine, we’re alive, this is overwhelming, but this is not a case when we need to activate emergency services. Self-rescue is number one.” They dried out and continued on, eventually to cross the line in Ketchikan in 18 days. Bravo.


The lead pack missed a tide gate at the race’s infamous crux, Seymour Narrows — the tidal rapids that rushes water whirlpooling through at as much as 15 knots. It wasn’t all bad, though; a few hours anchored allowed for a little rest, a hot meal, and a dance party for We Brake for Whales. As they careened into Johnstone Strait, the coastal weather systems that had discouraged

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The start of R2AK Leg 2, departing Victoria Inner Habour under human power. Photo by Joe Cline. Team Toybox Express nearly sank while the racers celebrated their anniversary. Photo by Jim Meyers.

anyone from taking the outside route, heavy upwind conditions and rough seas, started taking their toll.

Soon, the pair of contenders with world-renowned sailors aboard both had to retire with equipment issues on their respective trimarans. Team Mojo (which included offshore pro Tanguy de Lamotte) retired with a rudder issue on their F-25c.

For Team Tres Equis (including Rolex Yachtsman of the Year, Bill Hardesty), it was a litany of breakages on their brand new Corsair 880 Sport. They developed a bulkhead issue on the Proving Ground, which they fixed by creating chainplate-like support by epoxying storebought carpenter’s squares together and bolting them in place. Then, they repaired a failed rudder cassette using wood and ratchet straps. In the end, after making up incredible ground after the rudder cassette fix, a final lamination issue proved too much and they pulled the plug as they entered entered Queen Charlotte Sound.

While these conditions beat everyone up, two teams absolutely shined. Leading the race and seemingly never putting a foot wrong, Team We Brake for Whales charged to weather in their waterballasted custom cold-molded Lyman Morse 40-footer. The boat performed brilliantly, as did its sailors. Enduring rowdy ocean conditions with grace and grit, they were always making rapid northward progress.

A notably short distance behind them, though, was Eric Pesty of Team Pestou, sailing his F-24 trimaran way beyond expectations, and doing it singlehanded! He was unmistakable on the first day of

Leg 2, leading the whole fleet past Trial Island, and he never took his foot off the gas. A soft-spoken and humble guy, he’s a monster of a sailor. His feat of endurance will be talked about for an age, especially as long as his newly-set R2AK solo record stands — he finished third overall in 7 days, 22 hours, and 43 minutes, besting Russel Brown’s previous record by a few hours.

By the fourth day out of Victoria, teams were spread from Seymour Narrows to Prince Rupert — a span of approximately 400 nautical miles. Needless to say, the experiences were varied. On the North Coast, the weather was still set to moltoblasto as it had been for the first few days. The lead boats clawed toward the finish, while other teams nursed boat wounds and waited out the weather. Two boats were hauled out to inspect and repair damage — Team Monkey Fist wanted some assurance after a log strike, and team Dacron and Denim fixed the rudder on their Dash 34. After finishing fourth overall, Dacron and Denim said of their rudder, “It’s way better now!”

before amending that to “It’s better now, but pretty steampunk.” Other teams just let discretion be the better part of valor, entertaining themselves ashore with tests of strength and skill like drysuit donning, anchor assembly, and espresso making.


Amongst the human-powered contingent, there were some pleasant days in Johnstone Strait that allowed their craft to flourish. Good thing, too, as Cape Caution awaited, ready to slam a dose of humility back upon them. The pair of Team Solveig, racing their rowsail 18-foot Fearing described it like this. “We got really scared going around Cape Caution. There were big swells. We thought about turning around, but once you got out there, there was no turning back. That southwesterly was scary as it came in. With breaking chop on top of the swells — we don’t have a boat for that.” They described themselves as “pretty shaken” afterward, and were “dazzled and staggered that all the tiny

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Team Pestou leading the whole fleet out of Victoria. Photo by Joe Cline. Team Pestou's Eric Pesty arriving in Ketchikan, third overall. Photo by Kelsey Brenner. Team Wave Forager is the first solo rowboat to ever finish race to Alaska. Photo by Peter Geerlofs.

boats came around” just before them. See… adventure artists.

While an unknowable number of stories from the human-powered racers would delight and amaze, the feat of the fleet is fairly given to Team Wave Forager’s solo rower, Ken Deem, on his 19-foot Lost Heron rowboat. He’s the first solo rower to ever finish Race to Alaska, which he did in just over 15 days. In doing so, he won both cash-prize “side bets” as the first human-powered finisher and the first boat to finish under 20 feet.


Backtracking chronologically, no R2AK 2023 report would be complete without giving the Goussev-led Team We Brake for Whales their moment in the sun. Their boat excelled, especially in the heavy conditions but truly across the wind range. The team sailed beautifully and, dang, did they love each other. While numerous connections within the crew run deep, this particular group of eight had not competed together before Race to Alaska. But they were wisely assembled based on who they were as people at least as much as who they were

as sailors. They waxed philosophical about their group dynamic, and poetic about the course and the race itself. They had sailing highlights and hardships, and others like bubble-feeding whales — but they mainly relished the adventure.

Team We Brake for Whales’ palpable appreciation of one another is an awesome spectacle in and of itself, as was their achievement on the race course. But the win was even more meaningful to the crew, and to the R2AK community, because of what it said about co-skippers Jeanne and Evgeniy Goussev. The 2023 edition invited public awareness of the fact that Jeanne was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis during the pandemic. They sold Team Sail Like a Girl’s Melges 32 as Jeanne grappled with the disease physically, along with a harsh acceptance about things that might not be possible from now on. With the $10,000 log in her hands in Ketchikan and tears in all of our eyes, she is an adventure artist of the highest order.

To quote R2AK’s beautiful Daily Update after Team We Brake for Whales won Race to Alaska 2023:

[Jeanne’s] choice to Race to Alaska, her choice to bring her family boat, her

choice of crew, the decision to bring her overqualified husband — all of those were rooted in her desire to keep going, keep doing this for as long as possible. “I get muscle spasms on a good day, living at 20 degrees (of heel) for the past 3 days, I got spasms in muscles I didn’t even know I had.” To undertake such an endeavor, let alone win, she would need to surround herself with people who she could trust, in a boat she knew like the back of her hand. This campaign wasn’t about overcoming, it was about adapting. Five years since her first R2AK win she offered this perspective: “I’m aging into a disabled body, and I’m going to keep doing what I can do as long as I can.”

In all, 18 teams that set-out for Ketchikan stepped on to dock and rang the bell as finishers. Inspiring, admiring adventurers that they are, the final two finishers — Team Sporting Chance and Team Bella Bella and Beyond — brought their kayaks in together, tying for 17th (and last) place in just under 19 days. They finished winners, as it seems most everyone who chooses to take on Race to Alaska does.

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Joe Cline is the Managing Editor of 48° North What a team and a story. Team We Brake for Whales, winners of Race to Alaska 2023. Photo by Kelsey Brenner.



In year three, Anacortes Race Week really hit its stride and felt like home. For me, Anacortes actually is home. Still, there’s something magical about that many boats on the water, sailors on the dock, and friends at the party that makes it a different sort of home sweet home. At Anacortes Race Week, you are suddenly transported to a whole other world where life is pretty simple and everybody is really excited about sailing.

Speaking of coming home, it was a beautiful thing to have Charley Rathkopf back at the helm of race operations as the PRO again. Event Producer, Schelleen Rathkopf, ran the shoreside operations. With Charley and Schelleen came a whole slew of family and friends that know how to run a regatta and have fun doing it, many of whom were familiar to veteran Race Week sailors. It felt like all was right again in the world of Race Week.

This year, old traditions were revitalized and new traditions were created. Ashore,

the Anacortes Depot provided a great venue for the long-awaited return of Race Week’s famous post-race parties after a years-long hiatus. The Depot is just minutes away from the dock and has an indoor/outdoor location, with no actual dust — if you know, you know. It was wonderful to have the parties again to catch up with fellow racers, have dinner and drinks, dance, and celebrate the day.

On the water, the race courses were varied, the location was occasionally creative, and the sometimes-light conditions cooperated for several classes to have at least one race scored each day (for the others, races were scored on four-out-of-five days). It was not your average race week on the water, and in a very fun way.

On Monday we had pretty ideal sailing conditions by any standard. There was warm sun and a 10-15 knot westerly that held all day. Fleets settled into a good rhythm with two fairly long races with multiple laps. There was a leisurely lunch break in the middle, because even little boats need breaks sometimes.

I’ve always said that nobody really needs a #2 jib. This year, I was sailing on a J/70 that has only one sail configuration, but in my brain I was thanking my lucky stars that I wasn’t swapping a #1 for a #3 and back all day. Monday was #2 conditions, but only if you have one! We returned back to the dock at a civilized hour, with plenty of time for some of the crews to change into their cowboythemed party attire.

On Tuesday, the wind mostly forgot to show up for the party. Charley got one race off in light and fluky winds and a fair amount of current. He warned us that the finish was going to be shortened, but it still managed to confuse some of us as we tried to figure out whether he meant the leeward gate (where YC5 was) or at the start pin (where a chase boat was). We kept rounding things until we got our whistle!

Tuesday’s shortened light-air race was sailed northeast of Guemes Island. On the way in from the race course, there was a steady 10-15 knot breeze in Fidalgo Bay that was reported to have been there all day. So, could we race in the bay?

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That night, Gertrude’s Hearse put the band back together just for Race Week. Local sailors and music buddies, they rolled out all of the best original songs that we know and love. They called up friends and family to the stage. It was a fantastic show.

Wednesday is usually the day that you start to feel tired when you wake up, and think, “Three more days? I can do this!”

There was a good breeze blowing at the marina. Since our J/70 has an electric motor with a very short-distance charge capacity, our dock neighbors on the Dash 34, Mad Dash — a great group of sailors and human beings — towed us to and from the racing area. That morning, we passed through good breeze to the race area that was completely flat. Déjà vu. Charley’s voice comes on the radio: “Follow us!” The race committee was heading back and set their anchor in the Fidalgo Bay. "Uh, Mad Dash… a little help?" And tow us they did!

Fidalgo Bay is in a unique spot surrounded by three active tidal channels and close proximity to the Strait of Juan de Fuca. There was great breeze, but also some crazy current. It was just like sailing on a river, except that after a while the river went the other way. The race committee got off three races in lovelybut-occasionally-challenging conditions. For the most part, you wanted to pick a shore to duck out of the current. You could tuck up under Cap Sante on the left side of the course, but ultimately the upwind mark was on the right side of the course

and you could bang that corner too. It wasn’t easy to go up the middle, except when that tanker anchored in the middle of the bay started turning sideways to the breeze — if a giant tanker is sideways to a 15 knot breeze, something is afoot.

In the final race, the last leeward mark was deep in the bay near Hat Island and the La Conner Channel. That was maybe a tad too far because the wind shut off right there. With a little patience and grit on our part, we were able to recover from some prior poor decisions to sail around that parking lot and catch a few boats.

Wednesday night was the Pink Boat Regatta Party on shore. As I always say that everyone looks good in pink, and

everyone looks good supporting a regatta that benefits the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. It was a sea of pink.

After the official party, there was the first annual semi-official campfire night with a huge fire pit where people sang along with guitars around the fire. Next year, when camping is back, the plan is to have the campfire in the campground and show everyone’s sailing movies for a big official Film Fest Campfire evening.

Thursday is definitely the morning you wake up tired and wonder how you’re going to make it through the next two days, while also starting to get a little sad that your week of fun is about to end.

That morning, we headed out to our normal race area to the north. The westerly breeze filled in early and stayed all day, albeit with slightly less wind at 5-10 knots. We raced in deeper toward the shore of Guemes Island, and marks were tucked around the smaller islands of Jack and Vendovi. There were some wild oscillations near the islands and I’m sure some crews had it figured out, even if it wasn’t us. At one memorable moment, the J/70 next to us was discussing the next shift loudly enough for some education. A right shift, we’ll tack on that, too! Maybe they were encouraging us to get out of the way, but it worked out for both of us on that one. What a fun day on the water with plenty of geometry to think about.

Thursday night featured the ABBA cover

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A competitive start for the always well sailed J/105 fleet. Race Week traditions live on. The re-naming prank struck 1D35 Shrek and many others before the final day on the water!

band Abbagraphs — so much silliness, and a whole lotta dancing queens. Many of the crews went out for dinner and the town was hopping. Typical shenanigans ensued on the dock after the sun went down. Tradition! If you’re lucky, when you arrive at your boat on Friday morning, you have a new silly name written in electrical tape. If you’re fun, you keep it there all day and race with it. This year, the RC boats also got pranked all week. Silly kids, bless their hearts. There’s a next generation for sure.

Friday once again brought the fleet through breeze in the bay to a big hole around the corner. Charley came on the radio feeling a bit tenuous, but wanting to go back to the bay. Big wind! But also a huge tide exchange.

They set up in Guemes Channel, rather than deeper in Fidalgo Bay and the flood tide was roaring. Starboard tack was favored because you could make slow and steady progress to actually cross the starting line. Boats were powered up, but not going anywhere. You had to tack over to port to eventually get out of that river. Our start was at the end of the sequence, and we witnessed a lot of gamblers out there! Gotta know when to hold ‘em. If you got greedy and tacked too soon, you got shot right back through the start line backwards.

The big boats had enough momentum to get started, and the kinda-big PHRF boats did alright too, but the J/105s were just light enough to lose momentum on the tack and several got stuck unable

to cross the line. Charley had said from the beginning that if it wasn’t fair racing, we’d at least know that we tried. We never got a chance to test our theories, and we were ok with that. The first two classes were able to finish and the rest of us were graciously sent in early for some extra time to put away boats and socialize.

The overall awards ceremony was on the party barges at the dock. One design winners for the week included Moose Unknown in the J/105 fleet, Distraction in the Melges 24 fleet, Underdog in the J/80s, and Taz grabbed the top of the J/70s.

One class was scored both ORC and PHRF for (mostly) the same group of boats. In a lesson that demonstrates that

ORC and PHRF are not the same rating systems. Class ORC-1 had this podium after the handicaps were applied: 1D35 Shrek in first, J/111 65 Red Roses second, and Club Swan 42 Free Bowl of Soup in third; but in class PHRF-1 it went: 65 Red Roses, Shrek, and Farr 30 Nefarious. So interesting!

In PHRF-2 it was the Beneteau First 36.7 Vitesse for the victory, and in PHRF8 it was Hanse 455 Bribery. Mad Dash won PHRF-5 and was named the overall winner of Anacortes Race Week 2023 — their third time earning that honor. They also won the party with matching theme gear for every party, and they won the best dock neighbors award which, in true form, they shared with us.

New this year was Race Week Film Festival, and the Mad Dashers came in 3rd with their yearly Race Week recap videos. It was Cherokee Vic-Maui 1976 (presented by Peter Stewart on Shrek) in second place. This was a full length feature, and well worth watching every second, but Peter was more than happy to take you straight to the best parts. First in Film Fest went to the crew of Goes to 11, with a reminder that the South Sound Series can get a bit sketchy. Well done!

Anacortes Race Week 2023 was good fun and great sailing. Everyone pulled out all the stops to make the very most of it. Are you already thinking about next year? Jump in! Same place, same time, June 2428, 2024 in Anacortes, Washington.

48º NORTH 42 AUGUST 2023
Photos by Jan Anderson Dash 34 Mad Dash won the Race Week Overall title for the third time. Beneteau First 36.7 Vitesse sailing well ahead on the way to a class win.




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May 2023 found us all back in Hamble, exactly one year after meeting Red Ruby for the first time in the same city. That weekend, Chris and I would be racing in the RORC De Guingand Bowl — the opening race of the UK Doublehanded Offshore Series (UKDHOS) — for the second time.

Since it was only Tuesday, the first order of business was a sail with Rory Maclean, our sailmaker from Quantum, to try out four new sails. The weather was perfect for sail testing with winds in the Solent ranging from 10-20 knots. For us, it was fantastic to be back with Red Ruby after 8 months away. Red Ruby has had roughly 2,000 miles of adventures in the Med and France, under Jonathan and Alyosha’s care; including three deliveries, two truck transports, and then a nail biter at the end. The delivery of Red Ruby from Brittany in April was delayed due to 45 knots of wind in the English Channel. The delay caused us to reach out to a delivery skipper, who then got sick before departing. We had a one-month window to get Red Ruby to Hamble, and she ended up arriving only three days before us!

Condensing a preparation process that Jonathan, Alyosha, Chris, and I were all familiar with over longer stretches of time with our boats in the Pacific Northwest, we spent the remainder of the week with an aggressive list of tests meant to help us all understand how to make Red Ruby go a little quicker. Afterall,

we had spent very few days actually sailing the boat over the last year. We worked on rig tune, rudder toe-in settings, batten tension, mainsheet traveler settings, in-hauler placement, sail crossovers, wind and boat speed calibration, jibing practice, tacking practice, spinnaker peels, and code zero to spinnaker peels. Basically, we tested and practiced just about everything we could think of over a jam-packed four days. We also tested a super-secret sail that, while neither unique nor extreme, will be very interesting in the right conditions. More on that after we actually use it in a race.

A highlight of the week were dinners we had with people in the local sailing community. The first dinner, at a Hamble pub, was with James Harayda. James is the former owner of Red Ruby and, at 24, he was the youngest IMOCA 60 finisher in the Route de Rhum last fall. James is just about to relaunch his IMOCA 60, Gentoo, and continue his campaign to be on the start line for the 2024 Vendee Globe. The next dinner was at the home of Deb Fish, along with the Driver family. Deb is co-skipper of Bellino, a SunFast 3600 that has been at the top of UK doublehanded results for several years. The Driver Family (Chilli Pepper, SF3300) has also been at the top of the podium, and Ellie Driver (a twenty-something talent) was selected as UK Sailor of the Year in 2022. The Drivers also hosted 45 of the UKDHOS competitors on Friday for curry night and a weather briefing

48º NORTH 44 AUGUST 2023

for Saturday’s race. After a year of brief introductions here and there, it was great to have a chance to really get to know some of the competitors. The weather briefing was provided by Tom Cheney, the navigator aboard the JPK 1180 Sunrise, who finished first overall in the 2022 Fastnet. His summary –there would be light spots, and “better you than me.” We were starting to really feel like a part of this far-away community of like-minded sailors.

On Friday, RORC announced the course for the De Guingand Bowl. They don’t announce the course until the last moment to be able to create a course that will take close to 24 hours and offer a good variety of wind angles. Last year, the course only had two lines of longitude that you cross as “marks” of the course. This year, they made up for the lack of marks in 2022 and offered up a 12-leg route up, down, and sidewise, zig-zagging out of the Solent and around the Isle of Wight. This was not going to be a dull course, that was for sure.

And then it was time to embark on our 115 mile jaunt around the Solent and the Isle of Wight. We started at 11 a.m. just as the flood was starting to push us east out of the Solent, which was our first time starting from Cowes that direction. Race day was the warmest day of the week so far, close to 70 degrees, with sunshine and a nice 10- to 12-knot northerly for the first several hours.

With 86 boats racing, 38 doublehanded, the first four short legs were all about traffic management. After a reach, run, beat, and run we were solidly mid-pack in our fleet and feeling a bit

stressed as we kept getting bounced from our preferred course to find a clear lane. Then we started a nice kite reach under the Isle of Wight and found our groove, quickly passing three SF3300s and moving up towards the front of our fleet.

At the westernmost mark at Peveril Ledge, on the western side of Poole Bay, we made a good call regarding the current and found ourselves leading all of IRC 2, 3, 4 and IRC Doublehanded. This was roughly the halfway point, and it was dark. For the rest of the night, we were able to just focus on boat speed, with limited tactical options. We arrived at Nab Tower, back on the east side of the Isle of Wight, just as the breeze was starting to get light, with our fleet nipping right at our heels as we braced for the consolidation. We saw a few 0.0 moments on the speedo. Fortunately, 2+ knots of favorable current kept us moving in the right direction. From Nab Tower it was a 10-mile beat to the finish. We made some good choices regarding pressure and shifts and finished just in front of Bellino, who we rated level with.

That gave us line honors in IRC 2 and DH, and we corrected to the win in IRC 2, but boats from IRC 3 and 4 snuck in after us to push us down to fourth in the Doublehanded Overall. Still, that was a really nice way to finish off our second go at the De Guingand Bowl and a promising start to the UKDHOS season.

Jonathan and Alyosha have Red Ruby for the next three races. Then, Chris and I will be back in late July for the famous Fastnet to take on the more than 100 other doublehanded IRC entries!

48º NORTH 45 AUGUST 2023
The busy start of IRC 2 at the De Guingand Bowl. No Man's Fort in the Solent, with the enormous fleet enjoying the view and the conditions.




Hull planked, caulked, painted. Deck and cabin on. Prop shaft in. Includes suit of sails, mast, engine. Not sure of engine condition. Pictures on request. Located on Whidbey Island, WA.

» Contact Gail Buehler •

• $20,000



10 foot dinghy. Epoxy encapsulated, Chesapeake Light Craft Dinghy Kit. » Contact Richard Groesbeck

• (360) 739-1575 • • $4,000 OBO

For even more photos and listings check out


Hinckley quality, Sparkman & Stephens design. She’s a classic beauty and well maintained. Moored in Anacortes, WA. » Contact John Rose • (206) 484-0400 • • $85,000



World Capable Cruiser. Ready to take you cruising. Beautiful yacht. Cutter rigged with oversized rigging and extra cockpit winches. Lots of newer equipment; 40 hp Yanmar engine, autopilot, radar, stove/oven, watermaker. Cruise equipped; large sail inventory, windvane, heater, fridge/freezer. 2018, engine and power train refurbished at $20K cost. Orcas Island, WA.

» Contact Tom Owens • (360) 632-8896


• $115,000


Excellent condition, located in Port Townsend. 35hp Westerbeke diesel engine, jib furler, Dutchman furling system, swim step.

» Contact • $60,000


Own a classic traditional: Marie Anne, a Friendship Sloop. Originally gaff rigged fish boats in Maine. Mahogany planking, two-cylinder Yanmar, sails. Needs some work, the owner, deceased, was out of state for eleven years. The boat has been in saltwater storage, under cover. This is for someone who loves a historic type vessel and can fix her up.

» Contact Paul Kelton • (206) 851-0042


• $3,200 (Negotiable)

48º NORTH 46 AUGUST 2023



Very attractive. Jaunty and sassy looking. Constant admiration at the dock. Swing keel. Pop top giving massive headroom. Most capacious of most any boat of 2000# bare. Very good galvanized. roller trailer (one issue). Excellent cushions. » Contact Richard Dodge • (206) 954-7208 • • $4,999


Mahogany inboard. New varnish & bottom paint. Newish 383 (500hp). 50 mph. New upholstery. New cockpit sole. New fuel tank. New gauges. Rebuilt transom. New king Trailer. Ski tow-bar. Nearly new custom cover. 5200 bottom w/glass-epoxy over. Custom teak swim step. Serious inquiries only.

» Contact Jim Llewellyn • (206) 842-4552



• $14,000



Clean, well maintained racer/cruiser. Tall rig, deep keel. Sleeps eight, but comfortably cruises four in two cabins. Inboard Yammer diesel (2370 hrs), three headsails, spinnaker, GPS, Radar, fire suppression system. Beautiful teak interior. Pleasant cruiser for Puget Sound, San Juans, and BC waters. » Contact • $43,000 OBO


The stern section nests in the bow section to make a 7.2’ package that is ideal for the deck of a sailing yacht. It also makes a convenient lake or river skiff that packs inside your minivan or on the roof of your car. This boat rows very nicely and can be powered with a small outboard and will plane with an 8 hp. More info

» Contact CP Harry • (206) 503-9568 • • $3,500


I reluctantly am selling my boat of 30 years. A fine boat for a couple to cruise. We have cruised her over 10,000 miles, and her previous owner sailed her to the South Pacific (Australia) and back. She has been well maintained over all that time. Easy, comfortable and safe boat to cruise, as well as built to the highest standards.

» Contact George Leonnig • 1(503) 707-6062

• • $79,000


Comfortable cruiser and NW veteran. Dual helms. Yanmar 3GM30 engine with Autoprop. 2- 30 gal aluminum fuel tanks. Pressure hot and cold H20, propane oven, heater, engine heat, Newer 130% Genoa & Harken furling system. Main sail in good condition. Bruce anchor manual windlass. Bottom sider cockpit cushions. Radar & GPS. Moorage available.

» Contact Douglas W. Davidson • (425) 864-1955

• • $35,000



An exquisite & beautifully maintained, 16 yrs young wooden gaff ketch motorsailer. Launched by PT Boatschool in 2008. 16 Inside Passage voyages.

6.75kts@.67 gph! Many green features. New 12" Garmin electronics. Autopilot. Two helms. Sleeps

6. Large pilot house, salon w/fireplace, spacious cockpit. Silicone bronze fastened. OR white oak, Purple heart, Mahogany. MaxProp. Olympia berth

» Contact Peter Wilcox • (503) 490-5407


• $298,500

Quality racer/cruiser. Well maintained, upgraded. Bottom foils faired/painted 2018. Diesel htr, hot water, refer/freezer. Furuno Navnet chart plotter GPS, AIS. Digital charts Vancouver Is. to Oregon. Radar, autopilot. Bimini covers. Perkins M30, full service 11/22, Flexifold 3 blade prop. Full set sails w/ cruising genaker. Lying Brownsville.

» Contact John Burton • (360) 731-2461

• • $25,000


Professionally built, like new condition. With carbon fiber/hollow-shaft cedar oars, tiller, centerboard, removable center seat, and padded canvas rub rail. » Contact Pete • (206) 300-9424

• • $2,400


Complete rebuild with new sails, New paint-English Racing Green. NEW: bottom paint and boot stripe; varnished spars-varnished rub rail; teak oarlock beds; oarlocks; oars; stainless steel main sheet horse; engine mount with stainless steel bolts and eyes; 4 stroke/4 horse Yamaha longshaft with 1 hour on engine

» Contact David Bolton •

• $10,000 (SALE PENDING 07/10)


Extremely well built blue-water performance cruiser. People ask, “Is that a Swan?” Well-balanced rudder. Sleeps 6, V-berth, quarter berth, and convertible salon. 120 hrs on Volvo D1-30 engine & Saildrive. SIMRAD instruments. Garmin plotter & radar. 2022 nav charts. Sails are in great shape: Genoa and spinnaker. Force 10 stove. Webasto diesel heater. Many updates and replacements. Bellevue, WA

» Contact Charles Bockholt • (425) 890-3992

• • $43,500



Professionally built of mahogany planking over oak frames, Debonair has been lovingly maintained. Extensive upgrades include new electrical and 75hp Yanmar. Consistently turning heads, Debonair is a seaworthy passage-maker, recently completing a 16,000nm tour of the South and North Pacific. From rig to sails, systems to safety, Debonair is voyage-ready. Details: or'-ketch-8441971/ » Contact Vance Rucker

• • $89,500

48º NORTH 47 AUGUST 2023




Well built, lovingly maintained, well outfitted, affordable blue water cruising cat is ready to put another ocean under her keels. 3 doubles, 2 heads, beautiful woodwork. Watermaker, fridge, freezer, B&G plotter, AIS, SSB, Radar, 600 W Solar, 2000W inverter/charger, wind gen, auto props. Achilles aluminum hull dingy w 4hp. » Contact 206-658-3966 • • $275,000


A carbon fiber sport boat built for speed and was awarded as Sailing Worlds 2004 performance boat of the year. Features include a large open cockpit, 59’ foot tall keel stepped carbon mast, light pole. The light weight and tall mast makes for one of the fastest race boats for its size. Formerly owned Farr 36’s Wicked ,USA 5 and War Pony USA 2. Google "Farr 36 Wicked Sister" for more information on performance, race results and photos. » Contact Richard Courcier • (530) 320-1656 • • $79,000



Scintilla is an ocean cruising liveaboard used by every owner for that purpose. She has been equipped, maintained and updated for that purpose constantly. The current owners have sailed her 35k miles in the last ten years in comfort, safety and with good speed. She is equipped and ready for her new owners to continue that mission. For more info see

• $139,000




Built 1986 by the Sam Morse Co. Volvo D1-30 28hp low hours. Diesel bulkhead heater, Monitor windvane, 3 burner Force 10 propane stove with oven and broiler. Jib, staysail, mainsail, drifter, storm jib, storm trysail. Located Sitka, AK. » Contact John Herchenrider • (907) 752-5033 • • $69,000



Well maintained and cared for Catalina 30. Has a M25XP 23hp diesel 1825hrs, Espar forced air heater, self tailing winches, dodger w/ grab bars, dripless shaft seal, stern shower and more. New North genoa 2017, North mainsail 2018, heat exchanger 2019, water heater 2022, Mack stack pack 2022, Bottom redone with new prop 2022, batteries and Xantrex charger 2023 and more.

• • $36,000



According to Off Center Harbor, “Morning Star, a 50foot double-ended Scandinavian ketch, is a boat of a lifetime: handsome, capable, easily handled, and built out of the finest and most long-lived classic materials.”

» Contact L Richardson •

• $160,000


The Systems Specialists


Fiberglass hull, Yanmar diesel 3GM30F, freshwater cooled, new SS mixing elbow, interior wiring upgrade, Dometic electric toilet, 23-gallon holding tank, hot/cold water, Monitor wind-vane, stove-top and microwave (in Marina-use), diesel cabin heater with custom tankage, (3) anchors, full boat-cover, too many spare parts to mention, (rudder epoxy-coated after haul-out picture)


• $22,000

Please contact us to arrange a visit: 206-285-3632 E-mail: Electronics E-mail:


No ocean too big, no trip too small, no ship too large, no mast too tall, sail or power, we move them all!!! When you

PROFESSIONAL Cliff Hennen (360) 207-5016 • (206) 718-5582


48º NORTH 48 AUGUST 2023
Based at Elliott Bay Marina
Professional service since 1967. • (206)
are ready, give us a call.
390- 1596
PROFESSIONAL SERVICES SERVICES Full service rig shop serving Puget Sound
$69,000 » Contact Mark Muld • (206) 390-0169 She is planked with 1 3/8” Port Orford cedar over steam bent white oak frames on 12” centers, has a 40 foot waterline, 6’ 10” draft and carries 1200 sq ft of sail. » Contact William Couch • (360) 621-6870 » Contact CP Harry • (206) 503-9568 •




Offshore Sailing for Women

Nancy Erley, Instructor 206.789.5118


NW Sail and Canvas Makers


Asymetrical drifters & spinnakers

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40’ - 48’ - 60’ open slips. Great location in Poulsbo, WA Restrooms, Showers.

For More Information

360-779-7762 or 360-509-0178

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American Sailing Association courses Basic Keelboat 101 through Advanced Coastal 206 Based in Beautiful Anacortes, WA 360-299-0777

Basic through Advanced Sailing Lessons

Week-long Cruise & Learn lessons

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Gill foulweather gear & Dubarry footwear


Basic through Advanced Sailing Lessons

Week-long Cruise & Learn lessons

Spinnaker, Intro and Advance Racing Classes

Gill foulweather gear & Dubarry footwear


Winter Monthly Moorage Available

October 1 - April 30


20’ to 100’ slips available.

May 1 - June 30


20’ to 55’ slips available.

No liveaboards and vessels must have insurance

Please email


7001 Seaview Ave NW Suite 130 (Shilshole Bay Marina in Port of Seattle Building)

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7001 Seaview Ave NW Suite 130 (Shilshole Bay Marina in Port of Seattle Building)

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48º NORTH 50 AUGUST 2023 WATERLINEBOATS.COM | 206.282.0110 | SE ATTLE | EVERETT | PORT TOWNSEND WATERLINE BOATS WLB homeport for helmsman trawlers WLB Brokerage - boatshed seattle . boatshed tacoma boatshed everett . boatshed porttownsend WATERLINEBOATS.COM|206.282.0110|HELMSMANTRAWLERS.COM Helmsman trawlers 2008 VAN DE STADT 38 REDUCED 1977 JASON 35 PILOTHOUSE 2018 HELMSMAN 31 REDUCED 2015 DUCKWORTH 28 OFFSHORE 38E PILOTHOUSE OTHER HELMSMAN MODELS 46PH - 43EPH - 43S - 38S View our entire inventory of boats for sale at CROSSWORD SOLUTION D 1 E C 2 K H 3 O 4 U 5 S E 6 L 7 E G 8 I A O 9 A T N E U N 10 I P P E R A 11 S T 12 E R 13 N G S D 14 I 15 O T A H 16 I T C H 17 O 18 N G O I N G 19 Y A U W N D E N 20 Y L O N S 21 H E E 22 T I 23 L H M S 24 P A 25 R 26 M 27 A N I 28 F E 29 S T 30 L Z 31 I P 32 U N X I A 33 R U B A L 34 A N Y A R D N R Y E C E D 35 U E S 36 A T U R A T E S PLEASE SUPPORT THE ADVERTISERS WHO BRING YOU 48° NORTH Ballard Sails & Yacht Repair ................... 43 Bellevue Sail & Power Squadron 17 Beta Marine West ...................................... 10 Cape George Marine Works 17 CSR Marine 43 Downwind Marine/Samson .................... 15 Drivelines NW 43 Elliott Bay Yacht Sales.............................. 51 Fisheries Supply 4 Friends of the San Juans ......................... 35 Gig Harbor Boat Works 21 Iverson's Design 21 Marine Servicenter ............................ 15, 56 Northwest Maritime Center 11, 43 Northwest Rigging .................................... 21 Northwest Yacht Brokers Association ...... 23 Pacific Cruising Yachts 52 Port of Friday Harbor 35 Port of Port Townsend ............................. 12 Port Townsend Rigging 19 Sail Northwest ..............................................2 Sailrite 7 Seattle Sailing Club .....................................3 Seattle Yachts 54 Seattle Yachts Sailing Academy 9 Seventh Wave Marine .............................. 19 Signature Yachts 55 Swiftsure Yachts ........................................ 53 Ullman Sails 17 WA State Department of Ecology.......... 23 Waterline Boats 50 Yachtfinders/ Windseekers 51

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ailboat S

48º NORTH 51 AUGUST 2023 2601 West Marina Place, Suite D, Seattle info @ 206.285.9563
52’ Tayana Deck Saloon ’07 $375,000 44’ Worldcruiser Schooner ‘79 $275,000 40’ Hunter ’13 ................................... $167,000 40’ Swallow Craft Swift ’79 $74,000 39‘ Farr 395 ’01 $125,000 36’ Hallberg-Rassy ’90................... $135,000 32’ Nauticat 321
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40’ Swallow Craft Swift Farr Tayana 40’ Hunter 36’ Hallberg-Rassy
Professionally staffed! Open 6 days, Sun by appt.
40’ SANTA CRUZ SC40 ’84 $59,000 “KOKOPELLI”An Three Santa Cruz slip 44’ KELLY PETERSON KP44 ’77 $59,500 “GRACE” Classic performance cruiser. Beautiful lines and well-maintained brightwork. New rigging and chainplates. 37’ BANJER 37 ’70 $74,500 “KNOCKABOUT”Very capable boat. Has been cruised extensively. Blue water gear to carry on in comfort and safety. 53’ J BOATS J160 ’97 $299,000 sleek cruiser with new electronics, new main and jib, sail covers, dodger and bimini. Many upgrades 38’ PEARSON INVICTA II ’66 $54,500 “JIGGER” Custom companionway, interior upgrades, newer standing rigging and Yanmar diesel. A real treat! CHANNEL 45’ BENETEAU 45F5 ’92 72’ DEERFOOT 72 KETCH ’85

Introducing the Caraluna 245: the ultimate daysailer or weekend island hopper. Perfect for learn-to-sail programs, club racing, and sunset cruises, it guarantees a fantastic day on the water no matter how you sail it. Designed by Tim Jackett of Tartan Yachts and conceived by the Caraluna Design Team, it embodies simplicity, safety, and fun. Beginners will appreciate its user-friendly features, while experienced sailors will enjoy its remarkable performance. This small boat packs big possibilities with a lifting keel, c arbon mast/boom, and the ability to be easily trailered and stored. The cuddy provides versatile uses such as camping space, storage for porta potti, cooler & grill, as well as reliable weather protection.

The Caraluna 245 ensures inclusivity for all, making it ideal for adaptive sailing. Built to the highest standards,

it prioritizes safety without compromising on adventure. Redefine great days on the water with the Caraluna 245. Production slots are filling fast! Give us a call to reserve your spot on the calendar. Sailaway price: $69,805, fob US Factory.


65’ Irwin 1984 ...................................................................... $249,000 54’ Tayana - Bill Dixon 2008 .................................................. $650,000 51’ Hutton 1973 Steel Cutter REDUCED ................................ $70,000 50’ Santa Cruz Mk II 1984 NEW LISTING ............................. $140,000 47’ Whitacre 47 Offshore Catamaran 2023 ....................... $1,600,000 44’ Cheoy Lee Golden Wave 1981 ........................................ $100,000 43’ Jeanneau Deck Salon 2000............................................. $135,000 42’ CHB Ponderosa Sundeck 1985 NEW LISTING ................. $ 99,500 41’ CT41 1973 REDUCED ....................................................... $29,900 41’ Roberts/Nagy Steel Cutter 1987 NEW LISTING ................ $78,000 40’ Grand Soleil 40 C 2003 ................................................... $150,000 38’ Columbia YAWL 1967 $47,500 38’ Hunter 38 2009 NEW LISTING/LOADED ........................ $135,000 37’ C&C 37 Plus 1990 ............................................................. $79,000 35’ Allied Seabreeze Citation 35 1971 REDUCED $33,000 35’ Endurance 35 1984 REDUCED ......................................... $99,000 34’ Catalina Tall Rig 2001 ....................................................... $79,000 30’ Katanacraft Monsoon REDUCED $199,000 27’ Pacific Seacraft Orion 1984 ............................................... $33,000 24’ Caraluna Daysailor 2024 NEW MODEL ............................. $69,805 2024 CARALUNA 245 ........................................................................ $69,805
MIKE MULLENBERG Owner/Managing Broker 425-998-8731 KELLY LIBBY Yacht Broker 425-359-7078 GREG MUSTARI Yacht Broker 360-507-9999 ROD MACAYA Yacht Broker 360-772-9135 EVAN NOTEBOOM Fish Boat Broker 360-296-0896 VINCE TOWNROW Sailboat Broker 360-842-1649 JACK SPRIGGS Yacht Broker 206-399-7040 COLIN EMSLEY Technical Advisor Anacortes Marina: 2415 T Ave. Suite 106, Anacortes WA 98221 Office: 360-899-5774 Email:

Designed by Tom Wylie and built by Schooner Creek Boat Works in Portland, Oregon, Rage is a legendary West Coast sled. In 1994, Rage broke the Pacific Cup record set by Bill Lee’s Merlin by four hours. In 1996, she again set a new course record of 7 days, 22 hours and 1 minute. Rage has proven herself to be the ultimate ULDB with blistering speed potential, simple sail handling systems and strong construction. At the same time, she offers comfortable, beautifully finished accommodations and is easily sailed by a shorthanded crew. The proof is in the pudding as Rage has outperformed newer and far more complex boats. While she truly shines racing offshore, Rage was designed with an eye towards shorthanded cruising. She requires no conversion from “race” to “cruise” mode in her current configuration. She is reluctantly for sale as her current owner has a larger Wylie designed sled under construction by Steve Rander, Rage’s builder and original owner.

– Ryan Helling, swiftsu

48º NORTH 53 AUGUST 2023 Allures 45.9 • 2017 • $595,000
FROM SWIFTSUREYACHTS.COM NEW YACHTS FOR WORLD CRUISING Hinckley Sou’wester 59 • 1997 • $595,000 Hanse 455 • 2016 • $379,000 Beneteau 473 • 2005 • $235,000 Santa Cruz 52 • 2001 • $399,000 Sabre 362 • 1997 • $150,000 SwiftsureYachts 206.378.1110 | 2540 Westlake Ave. N., Ste. A Seattle, WA 98109 Seattle & Pacific Northwest San Francisco Bay Rhode Island With brokers on both west and east coasts, Swiftsure Yachts is dedicated to providing premium service to sailors buying or selling quality yachts. swiftsure locations 56 Coastal Craft 2012 $1,850,000 53 Gorbon PH 2008 $385,000 48 Monk 1964 $149,000 46 Outbound 2018 $820,000 46 Ker 2006 $229,000 45 Freedom 1989 Inquire 45 Bestevaer 2011 $450,000 42 Valiant 2008 $299,000 42 Passport 1980 $111,900 41 Grand Banks Europa 2010 $689,000 41 Sceptre 1989 $159,000 40 Saga 409 2006 $199,000 40 Passport 1980 $129,000 38 Sabre 2014 $579,000 38 Sunnfjord 2011 $389,000 36 CS 36 Merlin 1987 $49,500 32 Beneteau 323 2006 $72,000 31 Ross 930 1984 $37,000 28 Cutwater 2013 $159,000 Hylas 49 • 2000 • $475,000 Saga 48 • 2003 • $325,000 Bavaria 49 • 2003 • $225,000 Rage 1993 Wylie 70 $279,000
R e yac H ts
48º NORTH 54 AUGUST 2023 844.692.2487 SEATTLEYACHTS.COM LIVE THE ADVENTURE SEA BEYOND WASHINGTON • CALIFORNIA • FLORIDA • MARYLAND • CANADA • PHILIPPINES 2023 Tartan 365 Seattle Yachts 844.692.2487 2023 Hanse 418 Seattle Yachts 844.692.2487 IN-STOCK 2023 Dehler 38SQ Seattle Yachts 844.692.2487 IN-STOCK 2007 Hylas 49 $539,990 Greg Farah 360.603.0809 Seattle Yachts 844.692.2487 2022 Excess 11 Seattle Yachts 844.692.2487 SELL YOUR BOAT! LIST WITH US! 2024 Tartan 455 Seattle Yachts 844.692.2487 2023 Hanse 460 Seattle Yachts 844.692.2487 IN-STOCK 2024 Moody 41DS Seattle Yachts 844.692.2487 IN BUILD IN-STOCK IN BUILD IN-STOCK
48º NORTH 55 AUGUST 2023 Pre-owned Boats 2023 Beneteau Oceanis 38.1 InStock 2023 Beneteau First 27 InStock 2023 Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 2023 Beneteau Oceanis 34.1 InStock 2023 Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 OnOrder 2022 Beneteau Oceanis 51.1 InStock DemoPricing 3:1&3:2Available 2476 Westlake Ave N. #101, Seattle, WA 98109 • (206) 284-9004 • Open Mon-Sat 10:00am-5:00pm • Sun. by appointment WWW.SIGNATURE-YACHTS.COM Successfully serving clients for 30+ years. 100% ELECTRIC The power of silence with electric boating 33' Beneteau 10R '07 $104,950 OurTrade 30' Catalina 30 '88 $32,500 Inquire 30' Pearson 303 '86 $19,500 Inquire 54' Ocean Alexander 540 '92 $274,900 ByAppointment 38' Globe 38 '83 $140,000 AtOurDocks 40' Caliber 40 LRC '04 $199,900 NewListing 40' Beneteau 400 '93 $79,900 ByAppointment 50' Beneteau 50 '96 $149,950 ByAppointment 46' Beneteau 46 '12 $247,500 Reduced 44' Gozzard 44 '01 $249,000 AtOurDocks 48' Island Packet 485 '07 $489,000 ByAppointment 47' Beneteau 473 '01 $199,800 AtOurDocks 46' Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 '19 $499,900 Reduced 43' Beneteau 43 '08 $195,900 ByAppointment 38' Dufour 382 '16 $224,900 AtOurDocks What's Happening • Boats are Selling FAST! Quality Listings Wanted! Beneteau 423 '07 SOLD Beneteau 411 '98 SOLD Sweden 36 '85 Sale Pending Beneteau First 36 '23 Arriving Sold Beneteau 343 '08 SOLD Beneteau Oceanis 34.1 '23 Sale Pending Beneteau 31 '16 Sale Pending Hunter 31 '08 Sale Pending Beneteau Oceanis 30.1 '23 In Commissioning Hunter 29.5 '94 Sale Pending Beneteau First 27 SE '23 In Commissioning Beneteau 48 '13 $359,000
48º NORTH 56 AUGUST 2023 MARINE SERVICENTER 2023 Jeanneau 410 #77420: $429,875 • SAVE $21,455 Yacht Sales - Since 1977 LISTINGS WANTED! • WE GET RESULTS ! See Your Boat in full color in 48° North! 51' Lagoon 51 ‘23 ............................ SOLD 50' Jeanneau 50DS ‘10 Sale Pending 44' Jeanneau 440 ‘20 Sale Pending 44' Jeanneau 44i ‘11 ....................... SOLD 41' Jeanneau 419 ‘18 SOLD 41' Formosa 41 ‘78 $49,900 36' C&C 110 ‘03 ............................... SOLD 34' Catalina 34 ‘89 Sale Pending 32' Catalina 320 ‘00 Sale Pending 2015 Jeanneau 509 • $489,000 Dan Krier Don Smith Doug Lombard Curt Bagley Jeff Carson John Sheppard Seattle San Diego Bellingham 206.323.2405 619.733.0559 360.770.0180 • 2023 Jeanneau 380 2C/1H #77291: $329,795 • SAVE $60,015 2023 Jeanneau 380 3C/2H #77421: $359,896 • SAVE $40,505 1978 Annapolis 44 • $68,500 2024 Lagoon 42 #835: $764,885 • SAVE $96,051 1994 Tofinu 23 • $37,000 2020 Marshall 22 • $99,900 2024 Lagoon 46 - 1 SOLD! • Inquire Owners Version, Flybridge and More! Reduced New Listing New Listing 2024 Jeanneau 349 Ltd Ed #77925 $259,990 • SAVE $15,345 Reduced 1999 Jeanneau 40 DS • $149,500 2015 Jeanneau 469 • $319,500 In Stock-Sale Priced! Arrives January 2023 Jeanneau Yacht 65 - All New! • $2,458,190 Scow Bow Hull & Walk Around Decks! Dealer of the Year ‘22 • ‘21 • ‘20 • ‘19 • ‘16 2024 Jeanneau Yacht 60 #36 • $1,698,468 Scow Bow Hull & Walk Around Decks! Ready Now! Ready April New Listing 2023 Jeanneau 440 #77419: $534,646 • SAVE $44,533 2012 Jeanneau 44 DS • $389,500 2020 Lagoon 620 • $2,285,000 2023 Jeanneau 490 #77424: $654,896 • SAVE $42,089 New Listing In Stock-Sale Priced! In Stock-Sale Priced! In Stock-Sale Priced! Arrives September 2014 Harbor 25 • $49,500 Arrives October! Reduced
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