10 minute read

PALATE

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A good egg

Kate Underwood, Food Editor @relishthememory @eat.newzealand

Ifind it hard to imagine a culinary world without the existence of eggs. These life-giving bundles dubbed ‘the everyday super food’ are one of those rare, cornerstone ingredients that just keep on giving. The simple fact is that an egg can begin, entirely encapsulate, or finish a meal. We have so many delicious things to thank our (preferably free range) laying hens for. From the trivial and seductive entertainment of a runny yolk, the visual appeal of pink pickled eggs (made using beetroot), to the challenging dark hue of the Chinese Century egg – where eggs are preserved for weeks in a salt and clay mix. I’m forever fascinated by the structural integrity of eggs. The way the white has the ability to produce foam on a whiskey sour, lift chocolate mousse to ethereal heights, and provide strength and subtlety to the perfect pavlova. Inside lies the yolk, the gooey, unctuous pocket of gold. A vibrant bundle that delivers richness, colour, and viscosity to hollandaise, mayonnaise, lemon curd, custard, crème brûlée, and traditional carbonara. My go-to eggs are jammy. Boiled for approximately six minutes (medium-sized) and then plunged into cold water, resulting in a soft yolk that is jiggly and luscious, held together by a taut white exterior. I like them on toast, sprinkled with sea salt flakes, draped with an anchovy, a dollop of chilli oil, or a blob of Kewpie mayo. I love how the slightly loose yellow centre creates a sauce of its own, leaving a puddle to be mopped up. Ramen eggs are another favourite, highly seasoned umami bombs that sit overnight in a sweet soy liquid with vinegar and spices. I often crave the luxurious swirl of a well-seasoned scramble, cooked quickly yet patiently, by pulling the eggs towards the centre of the pan and repeating ’til *just* set. To be eaten swiftly, before they overcook, cool down or congeal. But regardless of the time of day, when I eat eggs, I almost always feel good. Nutritionally eggs are an excellent (and affordable) protein source, containing vitamins A, B, D, and E, alongside minerals from amino acids, sodium, iodine, selenium, and calcium to omega-3 fats and antioxidants. It’s this diverse nutrient offering and combination that makes eggs so unique, and it would require lots of different foods to gain the same nutrient cocktail. Eggs are ubiquitous in brunch, proven by their compulsory presence on menus and the obsession with a certain dish involving eggs on eggs. The beloved Eggs Benedict, where poached eggs are smothered in a buttery egg yolk sauce cooked gently over heat until thick and creamy. Controversial, maybe, but I don’t always love an eggs bene. I often find it too much, too rich, and dare I say, too eggy. However, the power to sway me lies in the hollandaise, one that leverages enough acidity to balance out the butter and the yolk. I appreciate when there is plenty of lemon or vinegar and have enjoyed versions involving chipotle, tarragon, the nutty burnt butter, and even one infused with espresso. After many bene attempts, I’ve learnt it helps to order hollandaise on the side, to control the richness you endure.

Eggs with a difference

There’s no denying the allure and delight of perfectly cooked eggs on toast. It’s the literal bread and butter for the brunch trade of most cafés. But in the name of research, our food editor Kate Underwood was determined to scour the city for egg dishes offering something a little different.

HELLO SUNDAY WESTEND STORIES NICHE EATERY

6 Elgin Street, Sydenham @hellosundaycafe 93C Cambridge Terrace @westendstories Unit 18/42 Marriner Street, Sumner @niche.coffee.eatery

If there’s shakshuka on a menu, I’m ordering it. At Hello Sunday, it’s served in a sizeable cast iron pan with tomatoes, capsicum, onion, and eggs nestled within. The generous portion is scattered with marinated feta, almonds, and Egyptian dukkah, alongside housemade flatbreads ready to be ripped and dipped to mop up gooey yolks and unctuous sauce. This quirky brunch spot has been a city go-to for years, with its loud, lively atmosphere housing different spaces to exist. The plentiful, crowd-pleasing menu involves brioche French toast and a popular braised beef cheek hash. On a balmy spring day, it’s worth sitting out back in the private courtyard for some al fresco dining and a side of sun with your eggs. Blink, and you could easily miss Westend Stories. Just a step and a hop from the Avon, the green oasis is a favoured central city lunch spot for visitors and office workers upstairs. It was the smoked salmon bruschetta that secured my stomach real estate, essentially a poached egg on sourdough supported by cold smoked salmon, beetroot hummus, avocado, tamari sunflower seeds, and a welcomingly tangy salsa verde. Inside the large modern space are people from all walks of life, some sipping espresso martinis, others ordering smoked cheese truffle burgers or fried cauliflower tacos. Like me, you’ll leave satisfied and enticed by the lush-looking treats, hopefully with a slice of hazelnut chocolate torte (gf) on hand to devour later. Just a stone’s throw from Sumner beach is Niche, an eatery for all, where delicious food and relaxed seaside vibes abound. Tempted by ‘The Indecisive’, aka the big breakfast, the chilli scramble with potato rosti and Calabrian sausage, I was eventually swayed by a dish called ‘Planted’. A celebration of poached eggs and vegetables draped in a Kolkata-style coconut curry sauce. Tasty, fragrant, and nourishing, it is livened up the roasted cauliflower, mushrooms, spinach, and crunchy jeera papad or cumin pappadom on the side. There’s something here for every appetite and all the Allpress coffee you desire. I love that you can order a pancake stack with a choice of toppings, but next time I’m going back for the housemade pies.

CHILD SISTER

277 Manchester Street @childsister__

Forever drawn to the most obscure or unique sounding item on a menu, it takes a special dish to secure a repeat order from my curious appetite. The Kimchi Rice Omelette from Child Sister gets me every time. Served dramatically sizzling on a hot plate, the moat of fluffy eggs is topped with a mountain of spicy, vivid red, kimchi-spiked rice mixed with pork belly slices (or mushrooms), showered in Grana Padano, and finished with a blob of Kewpie mayo. It’s flavour-forward, satiating, and evident by the number of people eating it all around you – extremely delicious. Since joining the Christchurch dining scene, Child Sister has won appetites and loyal friends, taking out café of the year in 2021. Conveniently located on Manchester Street across from the famous Margaret Mahy playground, the industrial, open-air space makes it a hot spot for mums with prams, family gatherings (they take bookings for groups) or work meetings. With strong brews from Lyttelton Coffee Co, the cabinet offers loaded sandwiches and treats I always want, like lolly cake and Basque cheesecake. The menu is influenced by Korean ingredients, including dishes like gochujang meatballs and a kimchi cheese toastie. I’ve spent many hours tapping away at my laptop here and can tell you that someone will always order the fried chicken and often honey butter waffle fries.

top pick

We’re a local favourite, ideal for a stylish meal or relaxed catch up with friends.

Open every day, from 11am to late. 03 961 6545 | aikmans.nz

A warm and inviting place for breakfast, lunch, or something else.

Weekdays 7.30am to 3pm, and weekends 8.30am to 3pm 03 355 6150 | info@brigittes.co.nz | brigittes.co.nz

BAKE ME UP BEFORE YOU GO-GO

GREAT DANE

The pastries at Copenhagen Bakery are something else. Take this humble custard Danish, for example. Delicate yet toothsome flaky puff pastry holds the perfect amount of custard; a light slather of icing adds a subtle and interesting note of marzipan. The Danishes are also available with fruit toppings. Copenhagen Bakery sits proudly on Harewood Road; it’s hard to miss.

copenhagenbakery.co.nz

CAKED

The Cake Eating Co has the philosophy that a premium cake requires premium ingredients, like free-range eggs and NZ butter, Tongan vanilla beans, and quality chocolates. They are fresh baked and soaked in syrups and alcohols for flavour, then filled with a range of handmade curds, buttercreams, compotes, and mousses. Each tier can be a different flavour, from unique to classic. thecakeeatingco.co.nz

BORED EMMA

Bored Emma cheesecakes are far from boring. Her cheesecakes change with the seasons and take on the flavours of the locations around them, with Emma even scouring Banks Peninsula for unique ingredients. This means unique creations like damson and gin, hawthorns and juniper, whiskey and grapefruit, sage and walnut, and even Central Otago thyme and rosemary grace the menu. boredemma.co.nz

CANAPÉ THE DAY

Celebrate our region being on show and be the favourite guest when you turn up with this Crisp and Vale box – Show Case. Pictured is The Picnic, a delightful collection of canapés perfect for any event or occasion: a housewarming, your Race Day nibbles, a trip to the beach, an engagement, and the list goes on. You can also build a bespoke Show Case by choosing from a range online. This is fancy fare without the fuss, and it’s sure to step up your ‘bring a plate’ game. crispandvale.co.nz

Build your perfect cheeseboard

With summer fast approaching, our days are becoming longer, and sunshine and outdoor entertaining are just around the corner. Our friends at Barrys Bay have shared a few tips with us on how to build the perfect cheeseboard – filled with a range of textures, ages, and flavour profiles.

Something mild Not everyone loves a strong cheese, so try including a cheese that is approachable, like Barrys Bay Havarti. This cheese is extremely smooth and milky sweet.

A blue Not for the faint-hearted – give your guests a cheese powerhouse! We love Barrys Bay Peninsula Blue for its big flavour, finished with a hint of sweetness. Try this with honeycomb or a ginger biscuit, and you will not be disappointed.

Platter with punch We eat with our eyes, so you always want your cheeseboard to look striking. Use a range of colours and textures to draw people’s attention. We love Barrys Bay Wood Smoke for the rich, rustic orange colour and the Peppered Havarti for the great texture! Both are very punchy on a platter. Hard and mature For those that do enjoy big flavours, choose an aged cheese like Barrys Bay Aged Gouda or Rinded Cheddar. Keep an eye out for little cheese crystals, a good sign of a well-aged cheese!

Nutty and fruity Choose a cheese with a distinctive flavour that is not overpowering. We love Barrys Bay Maasdam, which is smooth and nutty. Pairs perfectly with a nice Sauvignon Blanc on a summer’s day.

Accompaniments • Crusty bread, crackers, and nuts. Or a charcuterie of prosciutto and salami. • Try something sweet like honeycomb, chocolate, or fruit paste, after dinner. • Olives and gherkins add some briny acidity to balance rich, creamy cheese. • Fresh fruit like grapes, apples, and pears or dried fruit – apricots, figs, and dates.