Auto Service Professional - June 2020

Auto Service Professional ®

June 2020 | Vol. 10, No. 3

INTERSTATE AUTO CARE Bill Nalu has created a Midwest success story

Also in this issue:

Common ride control complaints Achieving critical fastener torque Examining today’s battery requirements

Contents

June 2020 • Vol. 10, No. 3

6

41

Te c h nica l

12

Ride control complaints

24

Achieving critical fastener torque

36

Today’s battery requirements

38

Charge up your battery sales

22

We examine 6 common customer issues

Applying torque to a threaded fastener is merely the act that fulfills the goal of achieving proper clamping force

Higher electrical system demands are increasingly dependent on battery condition

Consistent testing, customer education can boost your bottom line as seasons change

B u sin e s s

Reader Profile: Interstate Auto Care A Midwest success story

47

22 Departments

2 Straight Talk Taking noise seriously

6 Tech Tips From oil changes to a Honda chirp

41 Technical Service Bulletins From a Prius update to a Subaru hybrid DTC

24

47 Products New and innovative equipment for your tool chest and shop

48 Ad Index Your connection to free information

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ASP

1

Straight Talk

Taking noise seriously

A

Mike Mavrigian, Editor

As a shop owner, you’ve undoubtedly already made changes in your work environment in order to comply with the ongoing virus issue (face masks, gloves, disinfecting touched surfaces, etc.). However, we thought it was important to remind you of another unrelated concern that nonetheless affects the wellbeing of your technicians: shop noise.

Loud noises are an inevitable aspect of any busy shop, and something that we’re accustomed to. On any given workday, we generate an audible assault on our ears, some benign and some potentially harmful.

Sources include the cacophony of sounds caused by air compressors running, the whir of impact wrenches and drills, the percussive banging of air chisels or air hammers, the shriek of pneumatic cut-off wheels, the muscletiring striking of hammers or sledges as we try to remove stubborn outer truck dually wheels, car alarms going off when we least expect it, etc.

Some of the frequencies created by various tools and operations that our eardrums are subjected to on a regular basis can prove potentially harmful to our hearing.

Certainly, not all of the noises that we encounter pose a danger, but long-term expo-

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sure to high noise levels and frequencies can have a detrimental effect. Exposure to intermittent decibel levels under 70 Db is generally considered safe, but exposure to anything above 85 Db can damage hearing over prolonged or even short periods. Consider some of the tools that you use on a regular basis and their noise output.

Naturally, levels will vary depending on specific tool design.

A ½-inch drive air wrench can produce in the neighborhood of 89-96 Db. A shop vacuum may produce 77 Db or more. A 1-inch drive air wrench can emit up to 94-110 Db. An electric or pneumatic sawzall can produce around 85 Db. Air drills can present noise levels in the 102130 Db range at a fairly high frequency. These are generalized estimates, but you get the idea.

While many technicians take precautions by wearing hearing protection when necessary, some, especially perhaps younger techs, may operate while cloaked with the invincibility of youth and may ignore these precautions.

Regardless of how some may think that they are immune to hearing damage, even the strongest and most-macho of humans are subject to the laws of physics. The effort to protect your hearing is no laughing

matter and is not to be taken lightly.

There are a multitude of hearing protection devices readily available, including passive earmuffs, noise-cancelling earmuffs, inexpensive and disposable individual foam plug-ins and pairs of tethered foam plugins. Take advantage of the protective gear that’s out there.

As an analogy, competitive shooters practicing at ranges always wear ear protection.

Granted, shooting a firearm, depending on caliber, exposes the shooter and those nearby to a range of 145 to 159 Db or more.

While shop operations are unlikely to expose workers to that level of noise, competition or hobbyist shooters are keenly aware of the prospect of hearing damage and protect themselves accordingly. Why shouldn’t automotive and heavy-duty technicians do the same? Once your hearing diminishes, the damage is unlikely to be undone.

This serves as a simple reminder of a precaution that your shop should be taking seriously, if you haven’t done so already. After all, the liability with regard to employee safety ultimately rests with the shop owner. The potential for hearing damage is very real and is something we should not ignore. ■

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Resources

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Auto Service Professional is a Bobit Publication Executive offices: 3520 Challenger St. Torrance, CA 90503 CEO: Richard Chief Executive Rivera Officer: Paras Maniar President: Sherb Brown

Te chnical

TECH TIPS

G GDI ENGINES AND OIL

So many of today’s engines feature GDI (gasoline direct injection), where the fuel injectors squirt fuel directly into the combustion chambers. In many cases, this has resulted in carbon buildup on the backside of the valves and in the piston-to-cylinder wall gap, creating pre-combustion hot spots for detonation and reduced cooling of the valves.

Without getting into the many design flaws of GDI from an engine durability standpoint, it is vitally essential to perform regular engine oil changes, and using the oil specified by the automaker. While this may present a higher cost to the customer, in terms of increased oil change frequency and the sometimes higher cost of a specific type of oil, we need to explain the need for more diligent oil changes to the customer.

A recommendation of oil changes at say, every 10,000 or more miles, or a recommendation of an oil change only on an annual basis, simply is not sufficient to help maintain engine durability, especially with GDI engines. While some may disagree, it’s better to change the oil more frequently, perhaps every 4,000 to 5,000 miles. While this may not cure all GDI-related engine durability issues, it’s a step in the right direction.

DON’T JUST ADD FUEL

If you’re dealing with a 2016 Volkswagen with a 1.8L engine (like the Passat), you may find

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From oil changes to a Honda chirp

an ECM fault P1250 (fuel level too low). While your first instinct may be to simply add fuel to the tank, this won’t clear the code.

Add fuel, then perform a road test of at least 10 miles in order to make the code go away.

EASY ON THE VALVE

Many tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) valve stems are made of aluminum. When you connect a compressed air chuck, be careful. If the hose/ chuck is fairly heavy, and/or if you exert too much leverage force while connected, you can fracture and break the valve at the threads. Don’t man-handle TPMS valves.

HONDA GRIND

Too much leverage on an aluminum TPMS valve stem can be a problem.

ECOBOOST TIMING CHAIN

Ford’s 3.5L EcoBoost turbo engine is a fairly solid platform, but can be very sensitive to engine oil condition due to engine stress and oil contamination/ breakdown. If the customer ignores the oil change interval recommendation, usually the first component to experience premature wear is the timing chain, accompanied by wear on the chain guides and tensioner.

If the chain presents sloppy wear-related performance, the PCM detects the changes in camshaft position and sets code P0016 for crankshaft /camshaft correlation. If that code pops up, it may be time for a new chain, guides and chain tensioner.

If a customer has a 2016-2017 Honda Civic equipped with CVT (constant variable transmission), they may complain about a grinding noise during an engine hot re-start. They may say that it sounds like the starter grinding.

A pressure control valve in the lower valve body may be vibrating. Honda released an updated lower valve body to remedy the concern. Available as P/N 27000-5X9-014.

EASY I.D. OF LS ENGINE TONE WHEEL

GM LS-series of engines (both aluminum block and iron block Vortec versions) feature a reluctor wheel (tone wheel) mounted to the rear of the crankshaft.

The tone wheel features a series of teeth that provide a crankshaft position signal to the block-mounted crankshaft position sensor, which is used in conjunction with the cam position sensor to provide timing reference to the ECM. Early LS engines featured a 24-tooth tone wheel, while lat-

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Te chnical ever. Please, have them serviced on a regular basis.

STAINLESS BRAKE LINES

A black crank position sensor indicates that the crank is equipped with a 24-tooth tone wheel. er engines use a 58-tooth tone wheel. An easy way to quickly identify which tone wheel is installed is to simply note the color of the crank position sensor.

If the sensor is black, the tone wheel has 24 teeth.

If the sensor is gray or tan, it’s a 58-tooth wheel.

DON’T IGNORE YOUR TORQUE WRENCHES

Every shop has a few torque wrenches. Unfortunately, most are treated as “normal” tools, used, wiped clean and put away in a drawer. However, these are precision instruments that are subject to internal wear. Don’t assume that every time you pull and hear a click that you’ve achieved the desired torque.

With time and use, they can lose their calibration.

Try to make a point to send your torque wrenches out for recalibration and maintenance at least once per year. If you ignore this routine maintenance, you may be improperly tightening fasteners. Maybe you set the wrench at 40 ft.-lbs., but when you hear the click you might only be tightening to 30 ft.-lbs.

It may seem like a nuisance to have them recalibrated, but it’s like assuming that a car’s front brake pads will last for-

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If you deal with new stainless steel brake lines on occasion, especially if you perform your own flares, you may experience a leak at the connection. If you do, loosen the threaded connector, re-tighten, loosen and re-tighten.

You may need to do this multiple times. Stainless lines are harder and the flare may need to be conditioned several times in order to obtain a leakproof seal.

DON’T DO IT

When you service a customer’s engine and the cylinder head(s) is removed for any reason, you may be tempted to “clean” the head or block deck using a power tool driven abrasive pad.

Don’t do it!

While cleaning the deck by hand to remove gasket or residue is OK, using a die grinder or other power tool with an abrasive pad such as sandpaper, emery cloth or Scotchbrite, you can easily create an uneven waviness profile that the new head gasket may not be able to seal. If a deck surface is pitted or warped, the block or head must either be replaced or resurfaced on a precision resurfacing machine by a competent engine rebuilder.

Trying to resurface a deck with a hand-held power tool is just asking for trouble because you can’t be consistent with hand pressure. Especially on an aluminum deck, it’s far too easy to unintentionally obtain a wavy surface profile.

Plus, an abrasive such as

If the crank position sensor is gray or tan, the tone wheel is a 58-tooth version.

Scotchbrite generates tiny abrasive particles that will contaminate an assembled short block.

Scotchbrite has its place, but not on an assembled or partially assembled engine.

WHERE’S MY 10 MM?

We all know that the need for a 10 mm wrench is extremely common for many repair jobs.

For some unknown reason, the 10 mm socket is one of the most commonly misplaced or lost tools. Hearing the phrase “has anybody seen my 10 mm?” is not unusual. Murphy’s Law seems to have a grudge against this particular tool.

As luck would have it, if you own only one 10 mm short socket and only one 10 mm deepwell socket, you’re sure to lose one or both. However, if you stock your tool chest with a handful of 10 mm sockets (again, as luck would have it), you’ll probably never lose one again and then wonder why you bought extras.

However, if the 10 mm that you were using yesterday vanishes into the Twilight Zone, at least you’ll have backups.

Food for thought.

Te chnical

On the 2016 or later Mazda, note the location of room fuse 15A (lower left in illustration).

MAZDA MEMORY

If you run into a 2016 or later Mazda with DTC P2610 and P2507 stored in memory after an engine start with room fuse 15A removed, the cause results from the engine being started three or more times after a short duration of engine-off (less than 15 seconds) with the room fuse removed. The Check Engine light may or may not be on.

P2610......Instrument cluster internal engine off timer performance problem P2507......PCM battery voltage low input Install the room fuse 15A with the ignition in the off position. Start the engine and let it run for at least 10 seconds, the stop the engine. Start the engine again and verify that the Check Engine light is off, then stop the engine.

Clear the DTCs from PCM memory using IDS.

FULL TANK AND RUNS ROUGH

If you have a 2010 Acadia equipped with a 3.6L engine and it runs rough after the fuel tank is filled, DTC P0451 may

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be displayed. Confirm that the fuel tank pressure sensor is close to 1.5 volts with the key ON/engine OFF and the gas cap is removed.

If the sensor reading is close to 1.5 volts with the key on, reinstall the fuel cap. Disconnect the purge solenoid electrical connector. Start the engine and rev it up and down.

Watch for an increase in the fuel tank pressure sensor voltage. There should be no increase. If an increase is seen, the purge solenoid is leaking.

DEALING WITH MULTIPLES

With increased module to module communication, comes increased unique and multiple simultaneous problems, and any one module shutting down can affect everything from interior lights malfunctioning to the engine not starting.

As an example, let’s say that the ABS light illuminates on a 2007 Ford Crown Victoria.

In addition, the power steering was lacking assist. This vehicle model uses a variable assist power steering system

that defaults to minimal assist in the event of a system failure.

While trying to retrieve codes from the ABS module, you may find that there is no communication to the scanner. The first plan of action is to check the powers and grounds to the ABS module. The ignition power feed to the module might not show battery voltage as it should. The fuse is checked and found to be OK. Further tracing of the circuit may find a broken wire in the harness. Once the wire is repaired, communication is restored to the ABS module, the ABS light goes out, and the power steering returns.

When dealing with a multiplexed vehicle with multiple problems that began at the same time, the best plan is to pick one problem and concentrate on resolving it. If too many problems are tackled at once, it’s very easy to lose direction and start going in circles on a diagnosis One useful test, if available, is to perform a ‘network’ or automated test, where the scan tool attempts to communicate with all the modules on the vehicle’s networks. If a particular module is not communicating, addressing that concern is normally a good place to start.

HONDA CHIRP

If a customer’s 2016-2018 Honda Pilot, 2017-2019 Ridgeline or 2018-2019 Odyssey exhibits a chirping sound from the engine bay, it’s likely the high pressure fuel pump.

If the engine’s running fine and there are no drivability issues, the fix is to replace the pump in order to eliminate the chirping noise. ■

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Suspension

RIDE CONTROL COMPLAINTS

R

We examine 6 common customer issues

by Mike Mavrigian

Ride control complaints are one of the most common types of concerns expressed by customers. Quite often, the customer’s description is vague or misleading. Attempt to gather as much information from them as possible prior to performing an inspection.

For example, do you only hear a “funny” noise when driving on bumpy roads or on smooth roads as well? If you suspect that the vehicle is heavily loaded with cargo at times, ask if the “wandering” they experience only occurs when heavily loaded, etc.

The customer’s descriptions of an issue should be considered merely as a starting point.

It’s up to you to inspect and road test to determine the actual cause of the complaint.

will perform a thorough inspection to address the specific complaint.

Make it clear that once the problem has been properly diagnosed, the customer will be informed regarding the cause of the problem and the parts and labor that will be required to fi x the issue.

Resist the temptation of jumping to a conclusion before the vehicle can be inspected.

EXAMPLES OF COMPLAINTS

1. My car seems to pull to the left (or right) when I’m driving.

2. My car vibrates when I hit my brakes.

3. My car has an air suspension and just feels and sounds funny.

4. I hear funny noises going down the road that seem to be coming from underneath the car.

5. When I get my car to about 55 mph, my steering wheel starts to shake. Or, I feel a vibration in the seat.

6. The car is harder to keep in a straight line than it used to be.

DON’T JUMP THE GUN

Rule #1 when discussing this type of customer concern: NEVER diagnose anything at the counter.

Inform the customer that your technicians

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After verifying and correcting tire inflation and tire overall diameter size, measuring ride height can lead you to fatigued or broken springs.

Always check initial tire inflation at all wheel locations as one of the first steps.

Improper inflation can easily result in not only accelerated outer tire shoulder wear, but may be the culprit for directional pull and/or a wandering complaint.

ISSUE #1: PULLING IN ONE DIRECTION Always check the basics at the start of any ride control diagnosis by checking tire size and inflation, as well as ride height. This initial check can provide a verification starting point or can help to lead you in your diagnosis.

A directional pull while driving can involve any of a number of issues. Begin by checking tire size, verifying that both tires on the same axle are the same size. If a previous tire replacement resulted in only one tire being replaced of a different diameter, the smaller diameter tire will cause the vehicle to pull in the direction of the errant side.

For instance, if the left front tire features a smaller diameter as compared to the right front tire, the vehicle would tend to pull to the left.

All tires should ideally be the same make and model, and overall tire diameter should be the same at both sides of each front and/or rear axle.

Improper inflation pressure is one of the leading causes for a directional pull. Depending on the sensitivity of the suspension design, as little as a 3 psi change per axle side can account for a pull. The pull will occur at the side that features the lower inflation pressure. The severity of the pull will depend on the comparative difference in the same axle’s tires. Tire inflation differential isn’t limited to the front steering axle only. Uneven rear tire inflation can cause a pull as well.

Even if tire inflation pressures are correct

Worn or improperly installed upper strut bearing assemblies can lead to unusual grinding or rattling noises, in addition to compromising steering stability. and the vehicle still pulls, consider swapping left and right side tires (if the tires are directional, this will require demounting, re-mounting and balancing). Internal tire construction may be different enough to result in a slight difference in belt reaction to road forces.

Checking vehicle ride height (and comparing your findings to factory specs) can help to quickly identify a potential spring fatigue/failure condition.

Wheel alignment angles can have a profound effect on the vehicle’s tendency to pull in one direction. This includes toe, camber and caster. Excessive toe-out on one side can cause the vehicle to pull in the direction of side with more toe-out. If camber angles differ (beyond specification), the vehicle will tend to pull in the direction of the wheel that features more negative (or less positive) camber angle.

For instance, if the left front wheel has negaJ une 2 0 2 0

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While the use of an impact wrench can speed up wheel installation, the only correct method requires the use of a calibrated torque wrench.

Improper wheel fastener tightening can easily lead to hub/rotor warpage, which results in a lateral vibration. This is especially critical when dealing with alloy wheels and many of today’s lighter, thin-hat brake rotors. tive 1 degree of camber while the right front wheel has 1.5 degree positive camber, the vehicle will pull to the left. While the caster angle on many common vehicles may not be readily adjustable, uneven left/right caster angle that is beyond specification can easily cause a pull, with the pull taking place at the side with less caster angle. As an exaggerated example, if the left front wheel has a caster angle of 0.5 degree positive and the right front wheel has a caster angle of 2 degrees, the vehicle will pull toward the left.

Brake drag can cause both an accelerated brake pad and rotor wear issue and a directional pull. If the caliper pistons on one caliper do not retract fully (during non-braking or after a braking), the pads can retain enough rotor contact to reduce the free-wheeling operation of the rotor, in which case the pull will result toward the side with the sticking caliper.

Sticking/stubborn caliper pistons can be caused by corrosion in the piston bore as the result of moisture contamination or following a brake pad replacement after the brake pads have been allowed to severely wear. If the vehicle was operated with thin pads for an extended period, the caliper piston travel distance within its bore has been limited, with possible rust/ contamination building up in the unused area

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Some aftermarket alloy wheels may require the use of hubcentric adapters in order to properly center the wheel to the hub. This is due to some wheels being manufactured to fit a range of vehicle fitments in terms of rim diameter, rim width, back space and offset, where the vehicle hubs may differ in diameter. In these cases, the wheel’s center hole may feature a larger diameter for some vehicle applications. The extra space is compensated for with the use of a hubcentric adapter ring that is inserted into a counter bore in the rear of the wheel’s center hole, with the inside diameter of the adapter sized to snugly fit the vehicle’s hub. If the center hub hole of the wheel is too large relative to the hub, the wheel may be installed creating a radial runout condition, which would account for the customer’s “vibration” complaint. of the piston bore. Once the new pads have been installed, this causes the piston(s) to be further retracted, now travelling win a non-smooth area of the bore, potentially resulting in the piston being slowed down or stuck in the contaminated bore area.

If everything seems to check out and you don’t find any obvious causes for the directional pull, consider how the vehicle’s cargo is distributed. If one side of the vehicle is excessively loaded as compared to the other side, this can affect the front wheel alignment angles with changes to toe and camber angles. Granted, the uneven loading would have to be rather severe, but it’s worth considering during the diagnosis.

ISSUE #2: VIBRATION DURING BRAKING If a vibrational complaint involves the problem occurring during braking, the most likely cause is a warped brake rotor, causing the pads to bounce on/away from the uneven rotor surface. Brake rotor warpage can result from vari-

Suspension

Worn control arm bushings can result in a number of issues, including erratically changing front wheel angles, a wandering complaint, undercar noises and accelerated tire wear An example of a hubcenteric adapter ring installed to an aftermarket alloy wheel. This allows the wheel to be properly centered to the hub. Not all aftermarket wheels require these adapters. If adapter rings are needed, it’s simply because the specific wheel may fit a number of different vehicle makes/ models, with the exception of the wheel center hole. The manufacturer may design the center hole to fit the largest vehicle hub diameter, then require adapters to fit other hubs that are smaller in diameter. ous causes, including brake rotor overheating, lateral or radial runout, sticking caliper pistons and even improper wheel fastener torqueing.

Many passenger cars today feature thin-hat rotors that are easily distorted if the wheel fasteners are unevenly or excessively tightened.

This is another reminder that a calibrated torque wrench should always be used, especially when installing alloy wheels. Avoid the use of impact wrenches during wheel installations, and always tighten to factory specifications, following the correct tightening sequence.

Check brake rotors for lateral runout. Lateral runout causes the rotor to “wobble” as it rotates, kicking the brake pads in and out during braking, resulting in pedal bounce.

When checking lateral runout, the rotor must be secured to the hub with all wheel fasteners (not only two or three wheel nuts or bolts), with fasteners torqued to specification.

Mount a dial indicator base to a solid and nonmoving surface and lace the indicator plunger perpendicular to the rotor disc surface. Preload

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the plunger by about 0.050-inch and then zero the indicator gauge. Slowly rotate the rotor a full 360 degrees and observe the movement of the gauge needle. Compare your reading to factory specifications. Generally speaking, lateral runout exceeding 0.0025-inch is too much and may require rotor replacement. However, before replacing an otherwise acceptable rotor, mark the orientation of the rotor to the hub (matchmark one wheel stud and its adjacent location relative to the rotor).

Remove the rotor and re-position it to the hub in the next clock position and re-check for runout. You may have a stack-up of runout tolerance between the rotor and the hub. If you start to see an improvement, re-position the rotor to the next clock position and re-check. It may be possible to find that “sweet spot” where hub runout and rotor runout cancel each other out.

If, during initial inspection, you observe a discolored rotor, this is a sign of an overheat condition, which could be caused by several factors, the most likely of which is poor braking habits by the driver. The driver may have a habit of abusing the brakes by nailing the brake pedal at the last moment during stops instead of applying moderate pressure prior to final stopping. Or, the brake pads may be the wrong choice for the application, requiring excessive brake pedal pressure.

Upgrading the pads to a more robust pad material may solve the issue. Of course, if the rotor is glazed and/or heat checked, the rotor(s)

Loose lower strut mount fasteners can also contribute to a wandering complaint and can affect uneven tire wear. Whenever replacing struts, even if the vehicle design does not theoretically permit camber adjustment, any tolerance space between the bolts and holes can result in improper camber angles. Always perform a front wheel alignment when struts are replaced. must be replaced as well. If the application involves an emergency vehicle, such as an ambulance or police vehicle, only heavy-duty, high performance pads that are designed for fadefree panic stopping should always be installed.

ISSUE #3: AIR SUSPENSION PROBLEMS If a vehicle is equipped with an air suspension, where air bladders aid in controlling both ride quality and ride height, if the system develops an air leak, the compressor begins to work harder, especially if the system’s air dryer is contaminated with moisture. Whenever you’re faced with an air leak in the system, during the repair or components replacement, always change the air dryer. This will prolong the life of the compressor and the air spring solenoids.

One of the inspections that may be performed when diagnosing a brake pulsation, shimmy or directional control issue involves checking for lateral runout. When checking a rotor for lateral runout, set up a dial indicator and slowly rotate the rotor a full 360 degrees, noting changes in runout. Note: In order to simulate the stress of an installed wheel and to obtain correct readings, all wheel fasteners must be installed and torqued to specification.

Common problems with an air suspension include: Air leaks, which cause the compressor to run more or even constantly, which results in accelerated wear. Air leaks can be traced either to the air bag/bladder (most common) or leaks in air lines and/or line fittings.

Faulty air compressor. Again, compressor damage is most likely caused by an air leak that causes the compressor to over-work. In addition to noting that the compressor seems to run constantly, listen for telltale noises such as clicking, whining or grinding.

Moisture in the air system. The system features an air dryer to collect moisture and to prevent compressor damage. If excess moisture J une 2 0 2 0

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Suspension enters the compressor, this can result in internal corrosion. The air dryer should be changed anytime the air suspension system is serviced.

Tip: If an air suspension-equipped vehicle suddenly illuminates the ABS/Stability Traction warning light, check the connection of the ABS sensor that is located near the top of the shock mount. It may have been accidentally disconnected or is not seated fully.

Air struts heavily rely on the air bladder to absorb jolts and cushion the ride. All shocks and struts deteriorate over time as they cycle millions of times, compressing and rebounding over every bump, crack and road imperfection.

As vehicles and suspensions age, the viscosity of the shock’s oil changes, sensors can wear or be damaged, rubber air springs dry rot and other suspension components, such as bushings, eventually break down.

ISSUE #4: NOISES A “noise” complaint has the potential for covering quite a lot of ground. Try to obtain more detailed information from the customer. What type of noise do you hear (clicking, groaning, grinding, popping, whirring, whistling, chirping, banging, etc.)? When do you hear the noise (while starting the engine, while cruising, during braking or turning, or when braking)?

Worn front wheel bearings will typically produce a grinding or clicking sound. Worn or damaged upper strut bearings will typically produce grinding, squeaking or popping noises best heard during slow turns. Worn or dry CV joints will cause a clicking noise, usually experienced during a slow turn (into a driveway or parking spot). Worn shock absorbers may produce a squeaking sound when the driver enters the vehicle or during operation over uneven road surfaces.

A whirring, groaning or squealing noise may be heard due to a dry or worn power steering pump, or engine belt idler pulley. Squealing or chirping noises heard during engine startup, idling or upon initial acceleration may be indicative of loose, out of alignment or worn engine drive belts. Loose, damaged or badly rusted exhaust system components can cause rattling or banging noises. This includes pipes, hangers, heat shields, etc.

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Some front-wheel-drive vehicle rear suspensions may feature left and right lateral links that attach to a center-mounted “Watts link.” This serves to reduce body side-to-side movement in relation to the chassis/tire road contact. If the center bushing of Watts link wears out, this can create a very noticeable banging/thumping noise that can easily be mistaken for a failed rear strut mount.

Worn suspension components. If the vehicle features front-wheel drive and the rear suspension features a Watts link (also called a bell crank), it’s not uncommon for a worn Watts link center bushing to be worn out, which will result in a banging noise as the vehicle is driven over bumps or uneven road surfaces. This is often misdiagnosed as involving loose or wornout rear shocks/struts. A worn-out Watts link won’t really cause any major drivability issues, but the resulting banging noise can be quite nerve-wracking, making the vehicle owner concerned about a major problem.

Naturally, a loud booming or unusually loud exhaust note is likely due to a leak in the exhaust system (rusted-out or muffler, pipe, etc.).

A ticking or clacking noise during engine startup and during warm-up may be caused by piston skirt clatter until the pistons expand at normal operating temperature. A dreaded deep knocking noise during engine operation is a sign of worn/damaged connecting rod bearings (out of your shop’s realm unless you happen to offer engine rebuilding or replacement).

A clattering noise during engine startup and idle that seems to be coming from the top of the engine is indicative of loose rocker arms, which, depending on engine design, may involve insufficient oil delivery to the top end (clogged oil passage due to sludge/infrequent oil changes), worn cam followers, etc.

We won’t delve further into engine noises, since we’re trying to concentrate on ride-related concerns in this article).

ISSUE #5: SHAKE AT SPEED A “shake” complaint by the customer in somewhat ambiguous, since the issue may involve a vibration or a “shake.” Potential wheel imbalance is an obvious starting point. A road test will help to confirm this. If you suspect a wheel imbalance, and you check the wheels on a balancing machine and find no issues, consider a road force variation issue, where the construction of the tire(s) features isolated hard spots. This may be verified and remedied by using a balancing machine that features a road force simulator.

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Suspension

A red dot on a tire indicates the tire’s point of maximum radial force variation (RFV). In order to match-mount the wheel and tire, some wheels (usually OE) feature a dot or mark on the wheel to indicate the wheel’s point of minimum radial runout. By aligning these two marks, RFV is minimized by cancelling out the radial runout of the tire and wheel assembly.

Some wheels are marked for minimum RFV, in which case a weight balancing method is required to minimize/cancel RFV. Other potential factors might include a driveshaft imbalance. Inspect the driveshaft for a missing balance weight and check for worn front and rear universal joints. Also inspect for a bent or dented driveshaft. If the vehicle features rear-drive and a solid axle housing, check the pinion angle. If the axle assembly pinion angle has been moving vertically, this changes the driveshaft angle, which could explain a shaking or vibrating issue. If the rear suspension features leaf springs, inspect the spring mounts and spring pad U-bolts for wear and looseness.

If by chance the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, ask the customer if a clutch job was recently performed, and if so, did the “shake” issue begin to occur after the clutch service. It is possible that the wrong clutch assembly was installed, or that the flywheel was replaced. If a zero-balanced flywheel was installed to an externally balanced crankshaft (or a flywheel with an offset balance was installed on an internally balanced crankshaft), an engine and driveline vibration is more than likely.

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A yellow dot on a tire indicates the tire’s point of least weight. When mounting, align the yellow dot with the valve stem, which should reduce/minimize a balance issue, finalizing with a weight balancing operation.

This may seem like a stretch, but also check for any body/chassis issues involving a component that is affected by oncoming air at highway speed, such as a front lower air diverter or rear airfoil/spoiler. If a component that experiences forces inflicted by air pressure, and if that part is loose or damaged, this can cause the vehicle to experience a “flutter” as air speed increases.

ISSUE #6: VEHICLE WANDER AND SHOCKS Severely worn shock absorbers (independent shocks or strut dampers) prevent controlled vertical wheel travel, reducing correct tire-to-road surface contact pressure, resulting in a “floating” sensation at highway speed. In combination with speed-related vehicle air resistance, this can give the driver a feeling of a light, “wandering” condition.

Worn shocks/dampers will allow over-travel of the suspension, allowing excessive body lean in both lateral (side to side) and longitudinal (front/rear) planes. The reduction of damping and spring harmonic control leads to not only directional wander and body lean during cornering but nose-dive during deceleration and braking, as well as noticeable wheel hop, since a failed shock is not able to control suspension spring oscillation. While signs of hydraulic oil leakage are indications of wear, internal pistons and seals may be worn with no observed

Worn lower ball joints cause clunking noises, vibrations felt through the steering wheel and wandering left/right. fluid leaks. Worn shocks/struts create a number of issues, including allowing the vehicle to be more susceptible to the force of wind gusts and crosswinds, requiring the driver to constantly correct the steering. Poor suspension dampening due to work shocks/struts contribute to uneven, often “cupping” tire tread wear as the tires are compressed and released repeatedly against the road surface.

Braking distances are reduced because even though the brakes are trying to do their job, the reduction of suspension control allows body inertia to permit the body to keep moving forward. This places excessive stress and wear on front brakes and diminishes the effectiveness of the rear brakes due to body weight distribution as the rear of the body tries to lift upwards, reducing rear tire grip. This results in longer stopping distances and premature brake wear.

Since poorly performing or worn-out shocks/struts don’t control the suspension properly, this creates a domino effect by placing greater loads and stress on other suspension parts such as control arm bushings, springs, anti-roll bar bushings, lateral links, etc.

In addition to shock/strut damper issues, low tire pressure on one or both axles can easily cause a wandering effect., as the underinflated tire sidewalls are forced to flex excessively, resulting in a “loose” and sloppy steering control. Of course, under-inflation will also cause the tires to generate excessive heat, potentially leading to tire failure.

If one front hub that features a tone ring for ABS is replaced, the opposite side hub may have a different air gap at the sensor which can cause a MIL for ABS. From a ride standpoint, if one hub is worn, chances are the opposite hub bearing is worn as well. Recommend replacing front hubs/bearings as axle pairs.

Worn steering system components, such as tie rod ends, drag links, steering gears, rack mount bushings, worn or loose pitman arms or idler arms, pitman arm or idler arm mountings are all suspects when inspecting for a wandering complaint.

Check the condition of the wheel bearings.

Loose or worn wheel bearings will result in excessive lateral wheel play, easily contributing to a sometimes twitchy wander issue.

If the vehicle is equipped with a trailer hitch, ask the customer if the wandering issue only takes place when towing.

If so, the wander may be caused by too much tongue weight which changes the weight distribution of the vehicle, placing too much weight at the rear axle and reducing weight at the front axle. This transfer of weight balance lightens the front end, reducing steering axle tire contact patches to the road surface, causing the driver to constantly correct for straight line direction.

In addition, the trailer may be unevenly loaded, with the majority of the trailer weight towards the rear of the trailer. This can result in the “tail wagging the dog” syndrome. In a severe condition, this can result in a very dangerous and difficult to control condition at freeway speeds. ■ J une 2 0 2 0

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Reader Profile

INTERSTATE AUTO CARE A Midwest success story

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Madison Heights is about 14 miles northwest of Detroit. Approximately 50% to 60% of Interstate Auto Care’s customer base is within a three-mile radius of Madison Heights, with the remainder within an hour’s drive.

At age 16, shop owner Bill Nalu purchased his first car, which broke down the day he bought it.

Following his father’s advice, Bill followed the path of being self-sufficient and took an auto mechanics’ course in high school, learning skills that allowed him to pay for college.

After graduating from Wayne State University in 1990 with a degree in business, Bill worked as a tech support rep for VW/Audi of America.

After realizing that he wasn’t cut out for the office politics aspect of corporate life, he jumped at the opportunity to manage a Shell service station, enjoying the chance to manage a business and to have a say in workday scheduling and operation.

Two years later, he partnered with brother Steve Nalu to purchase their own Shell gas station, which they operated successfully for the following six years.

In 2000, Shell decided to eliminate all of its service retailers, opting for a gas and convenience store format. At this point, Bill purchased a former tire store that his parts supplier had suggested, which was the start of Interstate Auto Care. As a result of his outstanding customer service reputation, 80% of his customers from the previous

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The Interstate crew, from left to right: Joe Lerchenfeld, Norm Schultz, Mark Adams, Nick Nalu, Casey O’Sullivan, Bill Nalu. location travelled the several miles to new location, giving him the running start when the doors first opened in the fall of that year. “The majority of these customers who have remained loyal are the ‘baby boomers’ who appreciate skilled service and honest dealings. Today, too many people seem armed with plenty of content but little context and apparently don’t take the time to understand what’s involved in diagnosing and servicing today’s vehicles. And who can hardly blame

INTERSTATE AUTO CARE

Madison Heights, Michigan

Owner(s) ..................................................Bill Nalu Business founded........................... October 2000 Number of bays .................................................. 7 Number of certified technicians ........................ 4 Shop size (square feet) ............................... 7,000 Number of vehicles serviced per month........200 Hourly labor rate .............. Variable, $115 to $145 Average job ticket price .................... About $550 Gross profit....................................................58% Average spent on tools and equipment annually ................................$20,000 Vehicle makes serviced ............American/Asian/ European/medium-duty diesel

The service desk and waiting areas are spacious and impeccably maintained. them? Every minute of the day and at every turn, they are being promised anything and everything for nothing down, and nothing a month.”

Supplier support is my main determinant, hands down.

Does your shop offer general automotive repair, or do you tend to specialize in specific makes or types of repairs?

General service, but with some diesel fleet maintenance emphasis.

What do customers Owner/founder want/expect from your Bill Nalu. shop?

Many expect everything for nothing. They expect it done on time, every time. They expect nothing to go wrong along the way. My job is to set their expectations at a level where I can deliver on them the first time, every time. If and when I fail to do that, I have a customer who may not leave our shop a satisfied customer, which is way too prevalent in the overall retail service industry.

What is your business philosophy?

I believe that our success has been grounded in the decades-long commitment to provide hightech/old-fashioned customer service.

What does that look like, you ask?

It means that we treat people with the respect that they deserve. This is accomplished by our employees who are “people-people” — highly skilled technicians who are servants at heart, and diligently strive to service and maintain today’s modern automobile, arguably the most complicated consumer product in history.

Where do you buy your parts?

My main supplier is Maxi Automotive Warehouse, a subsidiary of AutoWares Parts Distributor out of Grand Rapids.

What influences your parts buying decisions?

Rank from 0 to 3, with 0 having no influence and 3 having the greatest influence?

Price ................................................................ 1 Brand name recognition ............................. 3 Promotion in racing ..................................... 0 Perceived quality........................................... 3 Availability/time ........................................... 3 Supplier (marketing program) support .... 3

What is your approach to technician training?

As the owner of an ASE Blue Seal-certified facility, I am proud to say that I pay for my technicians to attend online and offline training, as well as paying when they pass certifications. Why do I do that, you ask? Because #1: Someone has to set the example that certification means something.

If I don’t, then who does? #2: What better way is there when a customer at the counter asks why something costs what it does, than to point them to a wall filled with ASE credentials and set yourself apart from the average shop out there?

How does ASP benefit your business?

I really appreciate manufacturers, associations and publications that support our industry image. As a service professional, I encourage my employees to seek out information that makes them a better technician, and a better service advisor respectively, and Auto Service Professional is definitely a contributing factor. ■ J une 2 0 2 0

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Critical Torque

ACHIEVING CRITICAL FASTENER TORQUE Applying torque to a threaded fastener is merely the act that fulfills the goal of achieving proper clamping force Compiled by Mike Mavrigian

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Torque wrenches are available in a variety of formats, torque value range, calibrated in inch-pounds, foot-pounds, Newton meters and digital versions that handle inch, foot, metric and even angle.

Threaded fasteners require the proper amount of tightening in order to achieve the desired clamping force to secure components. This may involve either reaching a specified torque value or a combination of torque plus additional angle tightening. Either way, the goal is to obtain proper clamping load. With few exceptions, tightening by “feel� is simply inadequate.

Under or over tightening can cause fastener failure, components cracking, allowing leaks of combustion pressure, vacuum or fluid leaks, warped components or any combination of

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faults. Adhering to published torque (or torqueplus-angle) specifications is important for all installation or assembly tasks, but is especially critical for engine, transmission, steering, suspension and brake system applications.

A torque wrench measures the amount of turning (rotational) force applied to a threaded fastener (nut or bolt). Torque wrench scales usually read in foot-pounds (ft.-lbs.) or inch-pounds (in.-lbs.) and Newton-meters (N.m). When using the foot-pound scale, one foot-pound equals one pound of pull by using a one-foot-long lever arm.

Before installing and tightening any threaded fastener, the threads, both male and female, must be clean and free of irregularities in order to achieve desired tightening value. Whenever possible, and especially for cylinder head bolt applications, use a dedicated thread chaser (not a cutting tap!) to clean female threads.

Some micrometer type “click” torque wrenches are designed only for unidirectional applications.

If the tool is labeled for “Right Only,” it should not be used for counter-clockwise/left turning, which can damage the internal mechanism. If left-hand threads are encountered, you must use a torque wrench designed for left turns.

There are four basic types of torque wrenches commonly used for automotive applications: the flex bar, the dial indicator and the sound indicating (micrometer) types, and digital torque wrenches that provide a visual (indicating light) and audible (buzz or beep) alert when the programmed torque is achieved.

The flex bar type (also called the scale type or beam type) features a stationary needle that runs the length of the shaft handle. The needle indicates applied torque against a printed scale that’s located at the base of the handle. This type of torque wrench offers no pre-set limit, and there is no felt or audible “release” when a specific torque value is reached.

The dial indicator type features a dial indicator readout for visual display. Both the flex bar and dial indicator types provide visual displays of applied torque. The sound indicating type will signal applied torque by momentarily releasing the wrench a few degrees when the preset torque value is reached. The release is usually accompanied by a “click” sound. However, there are some release-type torque wrenches that will release upon reaching the preset torque but may not provide an audible click. The release/click type wrench is adjusted by means of a micrometer scale on the handle.

If the torque wrench releases momentarily and/or clicks, this is referred to as a “signal” type.

The “indicator” type refers to the visual display units such as the flex bar or dial indicator style.

Any adjustable torque wrench (the commonly used micrometer-handled click type, for

example) should be set at its lowest torque reading when not in use. This is something that many technicians commonly forget. If left stored at a high-torque setting, the calibration may be affected over a long term. When you’re done with the wrench, readjust it to the minimum setting before storing it in the toolbox.

Never abuse a torque wrench. It’s designed as a precision instrument and should NEVER be used as a pry bar or as a disassembly/assembly tool. A torque wrench should be used to achieve final clamping load only. Handle all of your “wrenching” duties with common wrenches, and only use the torque wrench as the final adjuster to reach a specific torque level. Don’t use it as your all-around wrench.

When using an adjustable torque wrench, be careful not to overtighten by applying torque past the release point. At very low settings, the “click” may not be heard, especially in a noisy shop. It’s best to become familiar with the “feel” of the release, rather than relying only on the sound of a click.

When using an indicating type torque wrench (such as a flex bar or dial indicator type), try to read the indicator while viewing it at 90-degrees to its surface. Reading the indicator at an angle will provide errors due to line of sight.

Most torque wrenches operate accurately only when held by the center of their handle grips.

Don’t use cheater bars to extend your grip further away from the wrench head, and don’t grab the handle closer to the wrench head. Only grip the wrench by its designated grip area.

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Critical Torque

Among the applications where installed torque (and possibly torque-plus-angle) tightening, engine block main caps and cylinder heads are examples where tightening and clamp loads are critical.

TORQUE VALUES AND FASTENER CLAMPING

Once the underside of the bolt head makes contact with the parent surface, since the head can’t enter the threaded hole, any additional rotation of the bolt head begins to slightly stretch the bolt. When tightened properly (to specification), the bolt has stretched within its designed elastic range.

When the bolt is loosened, the elasticity of the bolt theoretically allows it to return to its normal, uninstalled length. An analogy is to view the bolt as a rubber band. If the bolt is under-tightened, and does not enter its elastic range, it won’t provide enough clamping force. If overtightened beyond its elastic range, the bolt can enter its yield point, and can permanently weaken. If there’s no elasticity, the bolt can’t do its job in terms of providing clamping force.

Bolt or stud diameters are based on the load required for component clamping performance.

That’s why 1/4-inch bolts may be used in one location, and 3/8-inch bolts in another. A smaller-diameter bolt requires less torque value to achieve ideal clamping load, and a larger-diameter bolt requires more torque value to achieve ideal clamping load. Although not a perfect analogy, you can somewhat view threaded fasteners as “fuses.” The diameter is based on the requirement for the specific job, just as the amp rating of a fuse is based on the requirement for a particular circuit.

Tightening a threaded fastener should never be a matter of guesswork. Especially for critical fasteners, such as any involved in the brake sys-

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Proper tightening of connecting rod caps is another example of the need for accurate tightening. Rod cap fasteners that are undertightened can work loose, increasing bearing clearance and resulting in low oil pressure, damaged bearings, with the very real potential for crankshaft damage and catastrophic engine failure. Over-tightening can stretch the rod bolts beyond their designed yield, resulting in cap separation and engine failure. Rod fastener tightening is one of the most critical applications for achieving proper clamp load. tem, steering system, suspension, engine, transmission, differential and wheels, all threaded fasteners must be tightened to their specific-application torque value.

While many folks hand-tighten by “feel,” the more astute rely on a monitoring device such as a torque wrench. Unfortunately, when most folks use a micrometer-type (click type) torque wrench, they simply adjust the wrench handle to the desired force (if the wrench is the micrometer type), slap a socket onto the wrench, stick it over the bolt head and tighten until they hear a click, without regard to the variables that may enter the picture. Excess friction can occur if galling or “thread seizing” takes place. This is especially common with threaded fasteners made of alloys such as aluminum, stainless steel and titanium.

If galling occurs (at any level of severity), this will make your torque readings inaccurate, since the galling effect will add significant friction at the thread mating area, which will result in a severely under-tightened fastener (since your torque reading or indicator click will take place well before your desired clamping load is reached).

Several factors can affect fastener tension, including type of material, material hardness, lubrication (or lack thereof), fastener hardness, surface finish/plating, thread fit and tightening speed.

Properly tightening cylinder head fasteners is obviously important to maintain a dynamic seal for the head gasket. Many of today’s engines recommend a tightening method that involves achieving an initial torque value, followed by a specific additional fastener head rotation.

This is called torque-plus-angle tightening.

Digital torque wrenches are available that allow completing both steps with a single tool.

TIPS AND PRECUATIONS

• Never attempt to adjust a torque wrench out-

side of its intended range. For example, if the range maximum is 100 ft.-lbs., do not try to ad-

Digital/electronic torque wrenches allow easy push-button setting for value. Once the desired value has been reached, depending on tool design, the wrench emits an audible beep or a combination of an alert sound accompanied

by LED lights that allow you to observe both approaching value and final value. just the wrench higher and “guess” what the final value would be. For example, a “smidge” beyond the 100 ft.-lbs. mark on a 100-max torque wrench does not mean that you’re achieving 105 or 110 ft.-lbs.

• Threads, both male and female, must be

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Critical Torque

In those cases where cylinder head studs are involved instead of bolts, install studs only finger-tight to the block. Applying desired torque to the nuts will result in clamping load.

Do not double-nut studs and try to torque them in place. This will cause the studs to splay slightly and can fracture the block. clean and free of contaminants, rust and burrs.

Any debris or thread condition issues will adversely affect the achieved torque value.

• Never use a torque wrench as a general-service wrench to tighten or loosen fasteners, or as a pry-bar. Use only for achieving final torque values.

• Pay attention to tool design. Don’t use a ratcheting type or dial type torque wrench to remove fasteners (left-hand operation can damage calibration), unless the torque wrench has been specifically designed for left-hand operation.

• When tightening, slow down! Fast tightening creates more thread friction and heat, which can lead to thread galling. Tightening too quickly can also lead to inaccurate tightening, as the torque wrench must overcome the increased friction.

• When you reach the torque limit (your desired torque value), approach this slowly and watch the needle or feel for the click. If you tighten too fast, you may pull the wrench past the preset limit (unknowingly adding a few more footpounds of torque).

• As recommended in assembly instructions, apply the required lubricant to the threads before assembly. This may involve engine oil, molybdenum disulphide, an anti-seize compound, a specifically recommended low-friction lube or an anaerobic thread locking compound, depending on the application.

TORQUE AND FRICTION

When rotational torque is applied to a nut or bolt head, most of the input is spent in overcoming

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If a digital torque/angle wrench is not available for applications that call for torque-plus-angle, an inexpensive angle gauge adapter may be used. However, this will add time to the job, as you need to switch from the torque wrench to the angle gauge for each fastener. Of course, painting a dot on the bolt head and visually observing (and guessing) at angle rotation is an option, although not as accurate. friction. At the end of the process, 85% to 95% of the energy transferred through the wrench has been lost. In other words, the clamp load itself may only represent 5% to 15% of your effort.

Because of this frictional loss factor, slight variations in the frictional conditions can result in huge changes in the resulting preload. Variables include surface roughness, surface finish, lubricant, load range reached, dimensions, temperature and torquing sequence.

Since torsion is a function of the imposed friction, a given material reaches its yield strength sooner when the friction is high as opposed to low. During tightening, the apparent yield strength drops by 10% to 20% from the yield strength measured in tensile strength.

As mentioned earlier, thread lubrication, or lack thereof, can greatly affect the desired clamping load. Pay attention to the instructions, whether you’re following recommendations from the auto maker, part maker or fastener maker. Some torque specifications may be published based on the use of dry threads, threads lubed with engine oil or lubed with a special very slippery moly-based or synthetic lubricant. If a torque value is based on the use of engine oil, but the installer applies a super-slippery lube that reduces friction vastly greater than engine oil, the fastener will likely be over-tightened, potentially over-stretching the fastener. If the torque value is based on the use of a specific lube that greatly reduces thread friction, and the installer uses

Example of a foot-pound setting on an electronic torque wrench. When you set the tool for the desired value, the value will be displayed. Once you tighten to the point when you hear/see the alert, the display will also show what value you have achieved. For instance, if you continued to pull after you hear the beep, the display will show the actual result. If you set the wrench for, say, 75 ft.-lbs. but you pulled a bit too far, the display may read 77 ft.-lbs., etc. This provides an instant verification of the final value. engine oil instead, the fastener may be undertightened. Read the instructions, especially when installing critical fasteners to components such as cylinder heads, main caps or intake manifolds.

This is particularly important if using aftermarket fasteners that may be designed to use a specific type of lubricant and possibly a different torque value than the OE spec.

CHOOSE THE CORRECT TORQUE WRENCH

It’s important to choose a torque wrench that features your torque value requirement in the middle of its range. For instance, if you need to tighten a fastener to an upper range limit of 100 ft.-lbs. Instead, use one that features a range of, say, 25 – 250 ft.-lbs. If tightening a fastener to 50 ft.-lbs., use a torque wrench that has an upper limit of about 100 ft.-lbs., etc. Generally speaking, torque wrenches perform at their most accurate level when the application is in the midrange area of the wrench’s calibration spectrum.

USE OF ADAPTERS/EXTENSIONS

On occasion, you may need to use an offset wrench extension on the torque wrench due to fastener access. We’re not talking about the use of a socket extension bar. Rather, we’re referring to a wrench extension that makes the total length of the torque wrench longer, from center of the grip to the point of contact with the fastener.

Electronic digital torque wrenches can easily be set to various modes, for instance at N.m (Newton-meters).

If an adapter is used that effectively lengthens the wrench, a compensation calculation must be made in order to achieve the desired torque value. Because the use of an offset wrench creates greater leverage, this requires a change in your wrench torque value setting at a slightly lower setting to avoid over-tightening. Following is a method of calculating this change: E — Effective length of extension, measured along the centerline of the torque wrench.

L — Lever length of the wrench (from center of the wrench drive to the center of the adapter’s grip area).

TW — Torque setting on the torque wrench.

TE — Desired torque.

FORMULA: L divided by L+E, x TE = TW Let’s say that you want to torque a bolt to 70 ft.-lbs., but you’re using a wrench extension.

For example, the length of the torque wrench is 14-inches from center of the handle to center of the drive. Let’s also say that the added extension is aiming away from the wrench drive, making the distance from the center of the wrench drive to the center of the bolt 2-inches. This makes the wrench 2 inches longer, for a total length of 16 inches. In this case, you would divide the length of the torque wrench (L…from the center of the handle to the center of the drive) by L+E, then multiply that ratio by the desired value.

In this example, the formula would be as follows: 14 divided by 14+2 x 70 = 14 divided by 16 x 70 = 0.875 x 70 = 61.25 So in this case, where the wrench extension J une 2 0 2 0

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Critical Torque

Depending on the model of tool, you can also switch between ft.-lb., N.m or in.-lb. formats. has made the torque wrench 2 inches longer, the wrench would be set at a value of 61.25 ft.-lbs., in order to actually achieve a value of 70 ft.-lbs.

If you had set your torque wrench at 70 ft.-lbs. with the extension installed, your applied torque would have been over-torqued to about 78.75 ft.lbs., exceeding the specified clamping load.

CYLINDER HEAD CLAMPING

In order to optimize your results, following are steps to obtain a proper compression load that will ensure head gasket sealing and prevent potential aluminum head warp.

• Perform the tightening process in multiple steps, rather than tightening a bolt to the final value in one step. For example, if a torque value alone is recommended, let’s say at 70 ft.-lbs., initially tighten about 20 ft.-lbs., followed by 40 ft.lbs., and finally at 70 ft.-lbs. (with each phase in the proper tightening pattern).

• If a torque-plus-angle method is required, each additional tightening step should guarantee balanced and progressive loadings. After the first preload step, try to keep the torque targets consistent with the angle of turn needed to reach that torque.

For example, the second step could be achieved in approximately two 60-degree turns, and the last step in a single 90-degree turn. This will ensure good repeatability.

• If you opt for a multi-step procedure, make sure that the steps are not too close to each other.

Static friction is more difficult to overcome than dynamic friction, which means that if the steps are too close to each other, the wrench might click before even moving the nut or bolt head.

Don’t try steps that are only a few ft.-lbs. apart.

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If the electronic torque wrench is designed to provide both torque and angle modes, once you reach the specified torque, you simply press a button to switch to the angle setting and continue with the same wrench.

Some tools feature an internal “gyro” that even allows you to achieve a desired angle of rotation by ratcheting the wrench instead of applying a single continuous pull.

TORQUE WRENCH RECALIBRATION

This is something that may shops tend to ignore. All torque wrenches should be checked for calibration at least on an annual basis (more frequently depending on use). This may be something you’ve never considered before. The most compelling reason to send your torque wrenches out for recalibration include life cycle and overtorquing. If the torque wrench is used on a very occasional basis by a hobbyist, say five times per year, the wrench probably may only require recalibration every five years or so. If, however, the torque wrench is used on a regular basis in a professional shop, the operating cycles increase dramatically. It’s not unusual for a busy shop to run over 12,000 to 20,000 cycles per year. Having the tools recalibrated once in a while will ensure that they maintain accuracy. The cost is minimal and is offered by any reputable tool manufacturer.

By the way, after using an adjustable-setting torque wrench, always back the setting off to the low side, in order to remove excessive pre-load from the internal spring. This will greatly extend the life of the spring. Make a habit of backing the adjuster down to a low setting before you store the tool in your box or cabinet.

TIGHTENING TORQUE-TO-YIELD BOLTS

When tightening a TTY (torque-to-yield) bolt, you will invariably have to meet both a torque and angle published spec. For instance, the bolt spec may dictate that the bolt is torqued to 45

If you’re dealing with cylinder head studs (instead of bolts), depending on the design of the stud, it may feature a bull-nose tip that extends beyond the lower threads. This allows the stud to bottom in a blind hole without tip threads that could overstress the block’s lower female threads.

Always review fastener installation instructions provided by the engine maker. If using aftermarket fasteners, the maker may recommend a specific thread lubricant. The type of lube can greatly affect the clamping load. If the incorrect type of lube is used, even though your torque wrench “clicks” at the tool’s setting, you may have under or over tightened. Again, this is especially important for applications such as cylinder heads, main caps, rod bolts, etc. ft.-lbs., then tightened further by degrees of bolt head rotation (for example, by an additional 60 degrees of bolt head rotation). Some bolt specs may ask you to reach an initial torque, followed by several steps of rotation (20 degrees, followed by 20 degrees, followed by 10 degrees, for example).

In order to apply a specified torque, obviously you’ll need to use a torque wrench (needle type or click type). In order to tighten the bolt further by angle, you’ll need an angle meter that attaches to the wrench. An option is to paint a dot on the

Torque-to-yield (TTY) cylinder head bolts should never be re-used. Once used and removed, they may not return to their static length and may have lost their full elastic strength.

Don’t take a chance. Always install new.

When lubrication is required, be sure to apply the appropriate lube to the underside of the bolt head or nut. bolt head and observe the dot’s location as you continue to tighten.

The ideal method involves the use of a digital torque/angle wrench that allows you to select torque value, and then can be switched to the angle mode. Several leading tool makers offer these specialty wrenches.

Should you re-use a TTY bolt? In a word...

NO. A TTY bolt is designed to stretch to a point immediately prior to its yield point. On that basis, it is theoretically possible to reuse them.

Some car makers claim that it’s OK to reuse TTY bolts a specific number of times.

However, that recommendation is based on the assumption that each bolt has been properly tightened in the past. Since you have no way of knowing if a TTY bolt has been improperly tightened, perhaps past its yield, the safest course of action is to always use new TTY bolts in every single application.

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Critical Torque

When applying lube to the threads, once applied, be sure to rotate the bolt in your fingers to evenly spread the lube along/around the threads.

Avoid applying lube to the bolt tip. If installed into a blind hole, this could cause a hydraulic lock, preventing the bolt from fully seating.

METRIC CONVERSIONS 1 Newton meter = 0.741 ft.-lbs.

1 Newton meter = 8.892 in.-lbs.

1 m.Kg = 7.25 ft.-lbs.

1 cm.Kg = .870 in.-lbs.

1 n.Kg = 9.8 Newton meter 1 meter = 100 centimeters 1 meter = 39.37 inches 1 meter = 3.2808 feet 1 kilogram = 1,000 grams 1 kilogram = 2.2046 pounds 1 Newton = 0.2258 pounds ENGLISH CONVERSIONS 1 in.-lb. = 1.15 cm.Kg 1 ft.-lb. = 1.35 Newton meter 1 in.-oz. = 28.35 in.-gram 1 in.-lb. = 16 in.-oz.

1 ft.-lb. = 12 in.-lbs.

1 foot = 12 inches 1 pound = 16 ounces 1 pound = 453.59 grams

WHEEL FASTENER TIGHTENING

While the use of an impact wrench may be acceptable when removing wheel fasteners from a steel wheel, you should always avoid the use of an impact gun to remove fasteners from an allot wheel, and NEVER use an impact gun to install wheel fasteners to secure any style of wheel.

Always use a calibrated torque wrench for

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Where access is an issue, the use of a wrench extension may be needed. If an extension is used, you must recalibrate your wrench setting to a slightly lower value to compensate for the added length/leverage resulting from adding the extension. fastener installation. The reason to avoid using an impact gun during removal is simply to avoid scratching the fastener pockets of the wheel. If you insist on removal with a gun, use only a clean socket wrench and run the gun at a slower speed.

It’s easy to scratch the wheel’s well pockets with the socket or the exiting nut or bolt, even while trying to maintain control of the gun.

Why bother to use a torque wrench for installation?

All bolts or studs are designed to stretch a miniscule amount when optimal clamping load is achieved. This elasticity of the stud or bolt is what secures the wheel on the hub.

When torqued to specification, this is referred to as achieving the proper “clamping load.” If the stud or bolt is excessively overtightened, it’s possible that it will stretch beyond its yield point, losing its “rubber band” effect. If stretched beyond the yield point, the stud or bolt becomes so weak that it cannot provide the clamping load needed.

The result: the fastener loosens or the stud or bolt shank breaks.

The seat-of-the-pants approach that suggests “tighter is better” is an open invitation to fastener failure, extreme difficulty in future removal, and/ or damage/warpage of the wheel and hub/rotor.

Always follow the torque specifications listed by either the vehicle manufacturer or by the wheel maker. Don’t guess.

Actually take the time to pick up a calibrated torque wrench and tighten all of the wheel’s fasteners, in the proper sequence, in several steps to achieve final (and equal) torque values.

I realize that time is money, but the act of

Critical Torque

Many OE and aftermarket alloy wheels feature recessed fastener wells. Use caution to avoid galling the wheel’s fastener wells with thick-walled impact grade socket wrenches.

Be sure to select a socket wrench that fits easily and does not rub against the alloy. alloy wheels, since in the early days of alloy aftermarket wheels, the alloy material may not have been strong enough to handle the frictional forces created by tapered or radiused seats.

Over-tightening a flat seat nut can deform the wheel, causing the aluminum under the washer to extrude, which displaces the aluminum, causing the nut to loosen.

Make sure the threads are clean and free of dirt, grease, grit, etc. As far as wheel fastening is concerned, specifications are generally listed based on dry (no lubricant) threads.

Applying oil, grease or moly to the threads will result in inaccurate torque values (you’ll end up overtightening). Even if you use aluminum wheel nuts (which are popular in some racing situations, Porsche applications, etc.), the advice is the same.

Simply make sure the threads are clean and dry. Aluminum wheel nuts are typically made from a very dense, strong 7075 alloy, and will function properly if handled correctly. While a race team will use speed guns for quick pit service, you have plenty of time to be careful in the shop, so install the fasteners clean, dry and with a torque wrench.

WHEEL FASTENER RETORQUE

Some will disagree with the need to re-tighten wheel fasteners, but my advice, especially when installing brand new alloy wheels, is to re-check the value of each fastener after about the first 50100 miles of operation.

In addition to achieving the specified torque of wheel fasteners, always follow a tightening se-

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While you may be pushed for time to complete a job, you should always use a torque wrench to install and tighten wheel fasteners, especially when dealing with alloy wheels and many of today’s light brake rotor hubs. Using a torque wrench by hand assures both proper and even torque to avoid damage to studs, wheels and potential brake rotor warp.

In addition to achieving the specified torque of wheel fasteners, always follow a tightening sequence that evenly distributes the clamping load. Uneven clamping can easily result in a warped wheel or brake rotor. quence that evenly distributes the clamping load.

Uneven clamping can easily result in a warped wheel or brake rotor. Due to potential metal compression at the nut or bolt seat, potential wheel stud elongation and thermal stresses, the clamping loads may change during initial use, possibly resulting in inadequate clamping load.

When rechecking torque value, wait for the wheels to cool to ambient temperature. NEVER torque a hot wheel. Loosen and retighten, to value, in sequence.

While some will argue that this step is not necessary, it’s better to be safe than sorry. ■

Batteries

TODAY’S BATTERY REQUIREMENTS Higher Deck electrical system demands are increasingly dependent Deck on battery condition

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By Edwin Hazzard

PHOTO COURTESY MITCHELL 1

Over the last 50 years vehicle electronics have changed at a pace that has kept up with technology. The demands on an electrical system from vehicles that were around in the 1960s to vehicles of today have increased to the point where diagnosing and repairing today’s high tech vehicles has heightened the learning curve of the average automotive technician.

Gone are the days of using just a test light or a simple volt ohm meter. Today’s vehicles require the use of a higher-end digital volt ohm meter, an intelligent electrical system analyzer, and the use of a diagnostic scan tool.

But more than just using high-end and expensive test equipment, technicians need to have an information system and knowledge of how that vehicle’s electrical system operates and to be more precise how to troubleshoot the system. As I have stated in past articles, the battery is the heart of the electrical system.

Without a good healthy heart the rest of the body won’t function properly. When you compare a passenger vehicle that was produced in the 1960s (see Figure 1) with today’s modern vehicles, you see that the strains on the electrical system are much more severe than they were years ago.

With the addition of control modules, the increase in electrical accessories and the added wiring makes battery function that much more critical. If a battery starts to go weak, the requirements that the computer system expects to see will start to show symptoms such as electrical components not operating properly along with the possibility of drivability issues.

When diagnosing a battery, the battery first must be sufficiently charged. If the battery is not charged, your diagnostic conclusion will not be accurate. I used the lab scope to perform a test of the batteries condition. The illustration in Figure

Figure 1: Battery specs from a 1967 Chevrolet.

2 shows a vehicle’s battery voltage surface charge from key off/engine off, engine cranking, engine running and back to key off/engine off (see Figure 2). The red trace is the cylinder 1 ignition coil signal circuit.

As you can see, the letter C shows what battery voltage is during engine cranking. As the engine’s starter just engaged, we saw the voltage drop down to 8.5 volts. What this is showing is the vehicle’s battery voltage can’t sustain reserve capacity.

Knowing that this vehicle has the original battery and the vehicle is five years old and the fact that the voltage dropped below our spec of 9.6, a battery replacement is recommended.

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Batteries PHOTO COURTESY SOUTHEAST MOBILE TECH

PHOTO COURTESY SOUTHEAST MOBILE TECH

Figure 2: Breakdown of a battery voltage waveform. 2015 Chevy Colorado 3.6L V6 battery voltage before, during and after cranking.

PHOTO COURTESY SOUTHEAST MOBILE TECH

Figure 3: Battery cranking voltage using the ATS Escope Elite4. 2015 Chevy Colorado 3.6L V6 compression test.

Figure 5: Snap-on electrical system testing diagnostic tool.

PHOTO COURTESY SOUTHEAST MOBILE TECH

Figure 4: Battery cranking voltage up close using the ATS Escope Elite4. 2015 Chevy Colorado 3.6L V6, low volts on initial cranking. on this vehicle (see Figure 3) I noticed that when I first started cranking the engine the voltage at the starter when engaging seemed a bit low. As you can see the voltage began ramping up as the starter started spinning. Another equally important thing to look at on this screen shot is once the starter was spinning fully, the voltage started dropping. Figure 4 shows a zoomed in cranking shot of the initial starter engagement.

There are many different ways you can sufficiently test the vehicle’s battery. The use of an electrical system tester is a very reliable and accurate way of testing not only the battery but the starter and charging systems as well (see Figure 5).

Keep in mind that the battery is what you need to start with first. Without a sufficient battery, testing the starter and alternator will give you inaccu-

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rate results. For example, when testing a starter, an undercharged battery will drive up the cranking requirements of a starter which will possibly show an excessive amperage. The starter will draw all the available current from the battery due to the fact that the reserve capacity is low. And that will make the starter work harder than it should.

When it comes to your customers you always want to watch for problems that can crop up at any time. Performing a welfare check on their electrical system can prevent a possible failure in the future.

Giving the customer an electrical print-out will give them the peace of mind that you are looking out for them. After all, having repeat customers is what it’s all about. ■ Edwin Hazzard owns South East Mobile Tech in Charleston, S.C., which is a mobile diagnostic and programming service providing technical service to many automotive and body repair shops.

He has 37 years’ experience in the automotive industry.

He currently is an automotive trainer, a board member of TST (Technician Service Training), a member of the MDG (Mobile Diagnostic Group), a member of the Professional Tool and Equipment advisory board for Pten magazine, a committee member of Nastaf, and is a beta tester for multiple tool makers.

Battery Sales

Charge up your battery sales Consistent testing, customer education can boost your bottom line as seasons change

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COURTESY OF ODYSSEY BATTERY

By Nancy Dunham

Make sure you consistently test every customer’s battery, especially as summer heats up.

Many of your customers likely don’t realize that the batteries in their cars have little in common with auto batteries of years past.

Offer them expertise and an assortment of products and your shop could get a slice of what IBISWorld reported reports is the $13 billion market.

Although the recent COVID-19 pandemic has disrupted supply chains and automobile sales, many believe the demand for automotive batteries will only grow.

They predict shoppers eventually will take advantage of low-interest finance rates to buy cars.

Many car owners also will find their auto batteries are dead due to lack of use during the quarantine.

“Interestingly enough, one of the things that we as manufacturers have in the back of our minds is when all these people who haven’t driven in weeks go out to start their cars,” says Alan

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Kohler, marketing manager, Odyssey Battery.

“They will expect them to start, but many won’t.”

That jibes with a 2017 J.D. Power Report. During that year, without driving disruptions, 44% more auto battery failures were reported in 2017 than in 2016. Batteries are the most frequently replaced auto component, the report noted.

WIDE-OPEN OPPORTUNITY

Many auto owners don’t realize that the electrical demand on car batteries has resulted in shorter lives and no warning of battery failure.

“Batteries used today are completely different than those used 20 or 25 years ago,” says Jim O’Hara, vice president of marketing, Clore Automotive. “You needed very little power off that battery, which was primarily used to start the vehicle and run the lights.”

EDUCATION IS KEY

The best way for repair shops to educate customers is to offer free testing for every automobile they service. This allows technicians to explain battery life spans and develop customer loyalty, says O’Hara.

“I think that it’s essential for technicians to test every battery to maximize the return for the customer,” he explains.

“But when you get into the electrical side, so much goes into diagnosing and repairing complex systems, I think it’s very important that technicians are well-trained on the basics, know the service information and understand the wiring schematics.”

Offering a “good, better, best” array of batteries is a selling point, especially if they are customized for the environment and the drivers’ road habits.

And it’s important to remind customers that there are many factors, including driving style and environment, that play into battery life, adds Odyssey’s Kohler. That will often ease their concerns when you ask them multiple questions about their cars and driving habits.

“Most consumers tend to connect cold weather with battery replacement but it’s important to educate them on the fact that batteries hate extremely hot temperatures, as well as extreme cold temperatures, just like people do,” says Dave Hobbs, senior field technical training, Delphi Technologies.

“So, as summer approaches, marketing that is aimed to educate motorists to that fact could be helpful. The three most common vehicle systems that fail in the summer — air conditioning, cooling systems and batteries — are essential to keeping you comfortable and your vehicle reliable.”

COURTESY OF ODYSSEY BATTERY

Although owners of late-model cars enjoy heated seats, sophisticated infotainment systems, lane departure systems and other features, they don’t connect them with the car battery. Even start-stop systems and hybrids may have negative impacts on batteries, he said.

“What is their long-term impact on batteries?” said O’Hara. “We don’t know yet.”

Car owners also don’t realize that only driving their vehicles occasionally or taking them on short trips are among the other actions that drain batteries.

Using a quality voltmeter, check battery charge with ignition off. Also check with the engine running to verify that the alternator is charging the battery. Avoid budget volt meters that can provide false readings.

Even when you explain the reasons for battery replacement, though, some customers will wave off recommendations. ‘You will always find people who say they don’t want to spend for the best of something,” says Odyssey’s Kohler.

“And they say ‘Well, I don’t want to spend that type of money. What’s the next best option?

What can I get away with?’ Or they might say they’re selling their car in six months or, ‘I can get it cheaper somewhere else.’ That’s why education is so important.

“Some customers will (persist in saying) ‘I don’t care. I want the cheaper one.’ And it’s important to accept that.”

TRAINING YOUR TECHS

Delphi’s Hobbs says there are plentiful ways to help ensure that techs understand battery nuances.

“With hybrid vehicles becoming more popular over the past few years, the traditional symptoms that lead to battery testing and replacement can be quite different,” he explains.

“Typical hybrids today use a conventional lead acid 12-volt battery for lighting and ignition, referred to as L.I. batteries, compared to SLI (starting, lighting and ignition) with conventional vehicles.”

Add to that the possibility of servicing vehicles with dual batteries and other sophisticated engineering and it’s clear why training is essential.

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Battery Sales that can be adopted by different aftermarket and other channels so technicians ask the right questions to determine how people use their vehicles.

Based on the algorithm, it helps find the right battery for that person, so the customer isn’t oversold or undersold.”

COURTESY OF DELPHI TECHNOLOGIES

PUT THE PLAN IN PLACE

“Most consumers tend to connect cold weather with battery replacement, but it’s important to educate them on the fact that batteries hate extremely hot temperatures, as well as extreme cold temperatures, just like people do,” says Dave Hobbs, senior field technical training, Delphi Technologies. driving styles and environments. For example, Kohler says that batteries built with pure lead last longer in desert environments.

“A recycled battery has dissimilar elements that make up the battery, the plates,” he adds.

“So, they are always reacting with each other and literally discharge on their own.”

Anna Hung, product specialist for batteries, Robert Bosch GmbH, urges repair shops to recommend high-quality absorbent glass matt (AGM) batteries, especially in frigid environments. “AGM batteries are well-known for longer life than conventional flooded batteries under extreme weather, especially when it comes to starting a car in cold weather,” she says.

“When looking for an AGM battery, make sure it is 100% maintenance-free and offers constant power even for short trips, stop-and-go traffic or high consumption in stationary mode.”

Although techs need the education to provide reliable recommendations, Hobbs notes that sophisticated battery testing equipment provides solid backups. It also increases customers’ confidence in the advice you provide.

“Many provide the result in printed form, for customers who may not be as technically savvy as others,” adds Jason Searl, vice president of product management, Clarios.

He says results also can be emailed to customers. “We’re also developing next-generation tools

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There are great opportunities for shops with testers and educated techs, perhaps motivated by spiffs, to increase profits and customer loyalty.

A solid plan to consistently test batteries is vital, though, to reap the benefits.

“We’ve seen a good amount of auto retailers providing free battery check services and waiving installation charges if a consumer purchases a battery through their stores or online,” says Hung. “This is a great strategy for shops looking to attract battery work and to increase longer-term customer loyalty.

“The most effective thing shops can do as we head into the summer months is to check the battery on every vehicle that comes in, regardless of the service the customer is there for.”

Unless your customers consistently seek oil changes and other routine maintenance, they might not see you on a regular basis unless their vehicles break down, according to Hobbs, who adds that this is an opportunity to display your shop’s expertise and win loyal customers.

“Many fast lube places don’t add battery testing to their list of recommended services. This means that cold weather slow crank/no crank conditions are the most common prompts to get the vehicle owner into their repair shop for battery testing and replacement.

“With hybrid vehicles becoming more popular over the past few years, the traditional symptoms that lead to battery testing and replacement can be quite different.”

Make sure you consistently market the service and test every customer’s battery, say experts.

“Offering free testing is basically saying to the consumer, ‘We are giving you a great thing for free. Now, I’ll give you my advice,’” notes Searl.

“If the tech tells them the first few times that they don’t need to replace the battery, then show them when they do, that builds loyalty.

“You have earned their trust. You now have trusted adviser status. That’s what everyone strives to achieve.” ■

Te chnical Ser vice Bulletins

PRIUS

PRIUS UPDATE

Some 2010 to 2015 Toyota Prius, 2012-2016 Prius PHV and 20122016 Prius V vehicles equipped with a 2ZR-FXE engine may exhibit a MIL on with DTCs P2111 (throttle actuator control system) and P0A0F (engine failed to start) present when ambient temperatures are below 23 degrees Fahrenheit.

This intake manifold assembly has been improved, and the ECM logic has been modified to reduce the possibility of this condition.

Check the part number of the intake manifold. This can be found on top of intake runner #4. If the current P/N is 17120-37090, do not replace the intake manifold, as this P/N represents the improved manifold.

Note: According to Toyota, the ECM should not be replaced as part of this fix. The ECU should be recalibrated with the new calibration ID, available from Toyota. Check the P/N of the ECU. If the new P/N is found, there is no need to replace the ECU. INTAKE MANIFOLD Previous P/N New P/N 17120-37050 17120-37090 17120-37051 17120-37052 17120-37053 17120-37054

NEW ECU P/N 89660-47305 (2010 Prius) 89660-47434 (2011 Prius) 89660-47513 (2012-2013 Prius) 89660-47752 (2014-2015 Prius) 89660-47404 (2012-2013 Prius V) 89660-47682 (2014 Prius V) 89660-47621 (2015-2016 Prius V) 89660-47592 (2012-2013 Prius PHV) 89660-47741 (2014-2015 Prius PHV)

BUICK

STUCK BRAKE PEDAL

This bulletin applies to 2010-2015 Buick LaCrosse and 2011-2015 Regal vehicles. In “rare cases,� the brake pedal may not raise or may seem stuck down during a normal braking event. The condition may occur in high temperature and humidity conditions and may not be repeatable. Brake lights will remain on and brakes may drag after the pedal is released. A pop, click or snap noise may be heard when the pedal is applied or released.

If the concern is intermittent, allow the vehicle to idle for 30 minutes on max heat and floor mode to try to induce the concern.

The condition may be due to a bind in the brake pedal pivot bushing. If this condition is verified, replace the brake pedal arm. Be sure to use the two new retaining clips that accompany the new brake pedal arm.

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Te chnical Ser vice Bulletins

FORD

ECOBOOST PAN LEAK Some Ford and Lincoln vehicles equipped with a 2.7L or 3.0L EcoBoost engine may exhibit an oil leak from the engine oil pan RTV seal.

After removing the oil pan, it is suggested to allow the crankcase to drain overnight to minimize the chance of residual oil contaminating the crankcase sealing rail.

Remove all traces of old RTV and clean the sealing surfaces with Motorcraft Metal Brake Parts Cleaner, then wipe with Motorcraft Metal Surface Prep Wipes and allow to air dry. If possible, allow the new RTV sealant to cure for four hours before refilling the engine with oil.

This applies to 2017-2018 Lincoln Continental, MKX and MKZ vehicles and 2015-2018 Ford Edge, F-150 and Fusion vehicles.

PORSCHE

PORSCHE BRAKE CLICK This bulletin applies to 2014 to present Porsche 911 Turbo/ Turbo S vehicles. Some customers have reported a clicking noise at slow speeds. Due to tolerances on some of the parts connecting the brake disc to the mounting plate, small relative movements between these parts can occur. As a result, a clicking noise can be heard when the brakes are applied at low speeds.

The 911-II rotors have a slightly different design for the attachment of the rotor hat to the disc, starting with model year 2017.

These rotors are retro-fittable on the 991 generation I vehicles.

Before rotors are replaced, it is necessary to check the mating Using a feeler gauge, check wheel mating surface flatness surfaces of the wheels with a straight edge (12-inch Starrett 380) in at least six positions. to ensure flatness of the surface. Imperfections in the surface may have an influence on the rotor and can cause noise. It is necessary to check for flatness in about six different positions around the mating surface (roughly every 60 degrees).

The mating surfaces at the outer and inner areas of the mounting circle need to be checked for flatness.

The recessed area in-between is not part of the measurement. Use a feeler gauge that is very thin. The .05 mm thickness is probably going to be necessary to find the uneven areas. Record all measurements.

Ensure that the center locking wheel bolt is properly lubricated in accordance to workshop manual 440519. Ensure that all mating surfaces are clean and free of debris. When torqueing the wheel bolts, make sure that the vehicle is off the ground.

Use a torque wrench in one sweeping motion, not an intermittent jerky motion.

The new rotor part numbers are listed here (991-II rotors) Front left................. 991.351.407.06 Front right............. 991.351.408.06 Rear left.................. 991.352.409.07 Rear right................991.352.410.07 Do not take measurements across the recessed holes.

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Te chnical Ser vice Bulletins

INFINITI

INFINITI FLAT-TOW LIMITATIONS This bulletin released by Infiniti applies to all of the maker’s vehicles but also applies to others as well, regarding flat-towing. Failure to follow these guidelines can result in severe transmission or drivetrain damage.

4WD/AWD vehicles equipped with automatic transmission (including CVT and Hybrid powertrain): • Do not flat tow (will damage internal transmission components) • Do not use a tow dolly (will damage drivetrain components) • FWD vehicles equipped with automatic transmission (including CVT and Hybrid): • Do not flat tow (will damage internal transmission components) • An appropriate vehicle tow dolly must be placed under the vehicle’s front wheels.

RWD vehicles equipped with automatic transmission (including Hybrid): • Do not flat-tow (will damage internal transmission components) • An appropriate dolly must be placed under the rear wheels 2WD vehicles equipped with a manual transmission: • Flat-tow with the manual transmission in neutral.

• Always flat-tow a manual transmission vehicle facing forward.

• Maximum speed while flat towing: 60 mph.

• After towing for 500 miles, stop. Start and idle the engine with the transmission in neutral for two minutes to avoid damaging the transmission.

CHRYSLER RAM JAM

Chrysler is recalling certain 2017-2018 Ram 1500, 2500, 3500, 3500 Cab Chassis, 4500 Cab Chassis and 5500 Cab Chassis vehicles, all equipped with an automatic transmission and a column shifter.

Pushing the brake pedal for long periods when the engine is running and in PARK may cause the brake transmission shift interlock (BTSI) pin to stick in the open position.

With the pin in the open position, the transmission can be shifted out of PARK into any gear without pushing the brake pedal or having the key in the ignition.

CHEVROLET

VETTE AIR BAG RECALL

General Motors is recalling certain 2019 Corvette ZR1 models. Hard braking or acceleration may cause the sensing diagnostic module (SDM) to enter a fault state.

As a result, the Corvette’s SDM will not provide crash sensing or deploy the necessary air bags in the event of a crash.

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JEEP

OIL CAPACITY AND DRAIN-BACK RATE This bulletin applies to 2020 Jeep Gladiator, 2016-2020 Grand Cherokee and 2018-2020 Wrangler vehicles, all equipped with the 3.6L Pentastar Upgrade engine, with regard to checking engine oil level after oil filling.

The customer may note that after an oil change, they check their oil level and it is showing an overfill on the oil dipstick.

The 3/6L Pentastar Upgrade engine typically uses a small oil pan for most applications versus the 3.6L Pentastar Classic engine, resulting in an engine oil capacity of 5 quarts for the Upgrade engine. Of particular note: The 3.6L Pentastar Upgrade engine has a slower oil drain-back rate. After filling the engine to the correct oil capacity per specifications listed in the service information, the oil level may show a low condition on the dipstick due to the slower drain-back rate. This may prompt the person performing the oil change to add more oil. Engine crankcase overfilling can occur if not enough time is allowed for the oil to drain back into the pan sump. DO NOT add more oil than specified in the service information.

When identifying a 3.6L Pentastar Upgrade engine, the Upgrade engine has an EGR cooler mounted to one of the cylinder heads, and a variable valve lift (VVL) solenoid on the front of each valve cover.

Note an exception to the above information — 2016-to-current Jeep Grand Cherokee equipped with a 3.6L Upgrade engine has a unique oil pan size and configuration that provides an engine oil capacity of six quarts.

SUBARU SUBARU DTC

This bulletin applies to 2014-2016 Subaru Crosstrek Hybrid (HEV) vehicles where DTC P0A1D is found.

This code may be found in memory even when there is no trouble with the hybrid powertrain control module (HPCM). The cause is a very intermittent communication error between the SSM4 and the HPCM. Follow the steps provided below to prevent misdiagnosis before using the SSM4 Generic OBD II function.

• Check the HPCM Turn the ignition switch to OFF and wait 30 seconds. If DTC P0A1D is detected, replace the HPCM. If the code was not found, the circuit has returned to a normal condition at this time. Reproduce the failure and perform diagnosis again.

• Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, perform the clear memory mode and read the DTC again.

• If after completing these steps, P0A1D does not reset, the HPCM is OK and does not need to be replaced.

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Products Autel has expansion package for ADAS calibration system

Autel Intelligent Technology Corp. has released an expansion package for its portable MA600 ADAS Calibration System. The MA600CAL1 package expands coverage from lane departure warning (LDW), included in the standard package, to blind spot monitoring (BSM), park assist and adaptative cruise control (ACC) radar-based systems, Mercedes vehicles’ night vision systems and around view monitoring (AVM) and rear collision warning (RCW) camera systems. The package features a corner reflector (radar), Mercedes night vision calibrator, RCW patterns for Volkswagen, Mercedes and Nissan vehicles and AVM patterns for Cadillac and Honda vehicles.

AUTEL INTELLIGENT TECHNOLOGY CORP. LTD. WWW.MAXISYSADAS.COM

Arnott has air suspension compressor

Arnott Industries has introduced an air suspension compressor for the 2000-2005 Cadillac Deville and 1998-2004 Cadillac Seville. Compressor P-3021 is built to OE specifications, it connects directly into the vehicle’s air lines and electrical connector. It includes a mounting bracket, valve block and intake air hose in order to ensure a fast i n s t a l l at ion .

The product features an integrated dryer unit, thermal overload protection and an electro-plated finish to prevent corrosion.

ARNOTT INDUSTRIES WWW.ARNOTTINDUSTRIES.COM

OTC drum and rotor puller

The OTC 6980 drum and rotor puller from Bosch Automotive Service Solutions helps technicians easily remove rusted, frozen or stuck drums and rotors. Bosch says the 2-jaw puller makes quick work of stuck components, pulling with up to 7 tons of force. The puller handles large compo-

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nents such as brake drums, rotors, drive wheels, gears, flywheels, and pulleys.

One person can easily set the tool in place and use for tough pulls even where there is little access to insert the jaws. Features include a spread to 12-3/4 inches and 5 inches of reach, and it weights less than 10 pounds. It also can be used with air tools to reduce time and fatigue.

BOSCH AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE SOLUTIONS WWW.OTCTOOLS.COM

CRP Automotive offers Pentosin ATFs

CRP Automotive has introduced a line of Pentosin automatic transmission fluids (ATFs) for domestic, European and Asian vehicles.

Available for popular models that utilize ZF and Aisin AW automatic transmissions, CRP Automotive offers Pentosin ATF 5, Pentosin ATF 6, Pentosin ATF 8, Pentosin ATF 9, and Pentosin ATF 44. Pentosin ATFs are specially formulated to meet the individual design and technical requirements of specific transmission types.

CRP AUTOMOTIVE WWW.CRPAUTOMOTIVE.COM

Continental display helps sell wiper blades

Continental Corp.’s floor display is part of the company’s ClearContact Premium Beam Wiper Blade program. Designed to deliver maximum application coverage with minimal inventory, the free display (CC901) comes with a total of 70 front wiper blades — five each of 14 SKUs in the ClearContact Premium Beam Wiper Blade line. It also includes a printed application guide and a colorful countermat. The new ClearContact floor display requires a minimal footprint.

CONTINENTAL CORP. WWW.CONTINENTAL-CLEARCONTACT.COM

Robinair has A/C recovery machines

Robinair has introduced two connected A/C recovery machines — 34998 and AC1234-9. The fully automatic recovery machines are for use on standard and hybrid vehicle systems. The 10.5-inch high-resolution touch screens display machine status and service info.

They are designed to recover, vacuum, leak test and charge an A/C system on their own, allowing technicians to simultaneously work on other projects in the shop. The 34998 is for use with R-134a refrigerant vehicle systems, and the AC1234-9 is for systems that use the new R1234YF refrigerant.

ROBINAIR WWW.ROBINAIR.COM

Bartec offers TPMS tool software update

Bartec USA has updated the software for its tire pressure monitoring systems (TPMS) tool, and the latest update includes added coverage for Rite-Sensor and model year 2020 vehicles. Software release 62 offers an improved charging algorithm to increase the number of sensor activations between tool charges; it also provides a tool to make setting up Wi-Fi connections faster. The Tech400Pro connects directly to a wireless router, with no extra software required. Release 62 also features more Tire Fill Alert (TFA) coverage for Nissan and Infiniti.

BARTEC USA LLC WWW.BARTECUSA.COM

OTC releases engine adapter plates

OTC is expanding its product offerings with four new engine adaptor plates for its 1750A Revolver Diesel Engine Stand to further increase compatibility on engine repairs. For fast and seamless engine removal and repair, the new adapter plates were developed using high-grade materials for

maximum strength and durability. The adapters fit various Navistar and Detroit Diesel engines including the popular MaxxForce and DT series, and MBE 900.

OTC TOOLS WWW.OTCTOOLS.COM

Mahle offers PAG compressor oil

PAO 68 compressor oil from Mahle is a cost-effective solution for workshops. It’s suitable for many types of compressors, is non-hygroscopic, and is compatible with numerous other lubricants and refrigerants. During manufacture, special additives are added to the base PAO (polyalphaolefin) to ensure the oil’s outstanding characteristics.

As a result, PAO 68 oil is a unique combination of highly refined synthetic oil and performance-enhancing additives. PAO 68 oil can be used both when topping off and when changing the system’s entire oil volume.

MAHLE INTERNATIONAL GMBH WWW.MAHLE.COM

Permatex adds gasket makers

Permatex has added four new, advanced high temperature gasket makers to its Ultra, Optimum and The Right Stuff lines. The new gasket makers have been specially engineered to meet the technological advances in automotive design by withstanding the extremes of high thermal cycling experienced in today’s engines. Permatex Red Gasket Makers can be used for a wide range of high temperature repairs and service applications on headers, exhaust manifolds, turbochargers, slip-fit exhaust parts and more.

PERMATEX, A DIVISION OF ILLINOIS TOOL WORKS INC. WWW.PERMATEX.COM

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Ad Index

Instant information from ASP advertisers

AD INDEX You’re mere seconds away from receiving free product information. Just go to the website(s) listed to the right of each advertiser below and you’re there! Instant product information at your fingertips.

Advertiser

Page

Website

Aftermarket Auto Parts Alliance Inc.

5

www.perfectstopsummerpromo.com

Aftermarket Auto Parts Alliance Inc.

37

www.alliance1.com

Arnott Inc.

15

www.trustarnott.com

AUTEL

3, 11, 33

www.autel.com

CRP/AAE Steering Specialists

19

www.aaesteering.com

Mighty Auto Parts

7

www.mightyautoparts.com/asp

NAPA Auto Parts

OBC

www.napaonline.com

OTC Tools

9

www.otctools.com

Robinair

IBC

www.robinair.com

Shopmonkey Inc.

IFC

www.shopmonkey.io/aspmag

Permatex

27

www.permatex.com

TechForce Foundation

43

www.techforce.org

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MORE PARTS FOR MORE CARS