LE RÊVE
00
00 WINES MAGAZINE / ISSUE 01 / 2020
C O N T E N T S
02
Dreaming of the Old World in the New World
06
The Art and Science of Winemaking: an Interview with Wynne Peterson-Nedry
11
The Journey from Vineyard to Glass: 2018 VGW Chardonnay
21
The Past, Present, and Future of Wine Fermentation in Terracotta Amphora Vessels
29
The Science and Mystique of Wine
38
00 Wines 2018 Willamette Valley Wines Collection
L E
00 Wines Magazine 2020
R ĂŠ V E
01
DREAMING OF THE OLD WORLD IN THE NEW WORLD
With
our
face
an
ever
created
human
At
00
2018
Willamette
interesting
Valley
scenario:
in
the
we
are
middle
wine
to
collection
share
of
an
the
best
release, wines
unprecedented
we
we've
time
in
history.
Wines,
looking trying
2018
back
times.
vintage
00 Wines Magazine 2020
warmly Come in
the
dreamers. on
with
the us
Dreaming
past on
Willamette
a
brings journey
Valley,
us
of
the
future
comfort
through
the
in
and
these
dreamy
Oregon.
02
WILLAMETTE
VALLEY "THE
I
DREAM. THE
RIGHT
HARUKI 00 Wines Magazine 2020
COLLECTION
DREAM"
SOMETIMES
ONLY
2018
I
THINK
THING
TO
THAT'S DO.
MURAKAMI 03
CONTRIBUTORS Zachary Baum Zachary is a student at Pitzer College, where he is
creating his own sustainable
agriculture major. "I find this to be a fascinating subject because it combines various disciplines complex
from
sciences,
question
of
how
art,
history,
humans
philosophy,
can
engage
in
sociology,
etc.
agriculture
in
to a
answer way
the
that
is
environmentally responsible, meaning mutually beneficial for us and the natural world. My interest in nature, agriculture, and winemaking is inspired a great deal from my time spent at my family winey, Château de Pommard in Burgundy."
Rachel Allen Rachel is a writer and illustrator from Atlanta, Georgia. "My eyes are different colors, and it’s a fitting metaphor for how I view the world. I always notice the spaces where more color could exist, that’s how I imagine we’ll change the world. We’ll notice the spaces where our gifts can be shared and we will work hard to insert our passions into places that could benefit."
Chelsea Smith Chelsea is a professional photographer from the Pacific Northwest. As a student at George Fox University, she was surrounded by the majesty of Willamette Valley wine country. "Stepping into wine photography has been life-giving and encouraged me to be daring & brave. It has also led me on the most adventures, and made my heart and taste buds whole and happy."
Kathryn Hermann Kathryn oversees the day-to-day operations and creative direction of 00 Wines as cofounder with her husband, Chris Hermann. She is the editor and publisher of the newly released 00 Wines magazine. "At 00, we produce rare and special wines in the Willamette Valley, Burgundy, and Champagne. I am passionate about communicating the emotions, feelings, and mood that fine wines create from vineyard to glass."
00 Wines Magazine 2020
04
FROM THE EDITOR KATHRYN
HERMANN
Welcome
to
quarterly
00
The
for
idea
summer, grand the no
2018
this
germinated
the
would
laughing
What their
a
Burgundy,
of
and
new
early
that
our
plans
No
no
in
chefs,
hugging,
over
our
motivated Rachel
inaugural
present
hard
impossible.
photographer
this
we
the
party
toasting
team
wine
bring
in
the
new
you.
Baum
talented to
from
of
reality
release
be
while
with
(Zachary
painful
vintage
gathered
issue
magazine.
winemakers
releases
inaugural
Wines
when
autumn
no
I
the
2018
students
Allen)
and
Chelsea
magazine
here
is
the
a
Smith
to
life.
result
2020
of
work.
In Don't new
discount
their
generation
who
will
of
lead
youth.
They
dreamers
our
and
global
are
this
issue,
into
the
interviews
with
as
challenges
stewards
of
the
coordinator
at
of
tend
and
love,
as
land
that
at
the
Oregon
Kevin
you
will
read
Chien,
program
Oregon
Wine
Research
State
University
in
Corvallis,
Chambers.
Chambers
is
a
fifth-
Oregon
farmer,
with
a
legendary
in
in
the
Willamette
Valley.
Now
he
is
issue.
developing vineyard, 2018
was
a
special
vintage
because
it
year
that
a
Wines
family
was
Chris
and
were
new
chapter
written.
My
in
the
married
Studio,
where
and
a
pasture
permaculture operation
with
family.
co-proprietor
at
the
we
our
2018
Pinot
Noirs
are
especially
Carlton
vibrant Winemakers
orchard
Farm,
00
Finally, I
Koosah
was
his the
Mark
we
career this
two
climate
generation currently
synthesizes
community
and change
Baum
thinkers
Institute straight
Zachary
the
produce
and
expressive,
due
to
the
expansion
of
our
our
amphorae
fermentation
program.
We've
wines.
traced
the
ancient In
2018
hired
winemaker
00
Wines
Wynne
second-generation region. an
You
exclusive
will
winemaker
interview
more here.
from
about
vessels
in
and
this
chemistry
of
these
issue.
Valley
Peterson-Nedry,
learn
00 Wines Magazine 2020
Willamette
history
her
a
Together,
let's
while
keep
look
back
on
a
dream
vintage
the in
noses
we in
the
our
glass,
heads
and
our
in
the
boots
on
clouds, the
our
ground.
05
The Art and Science of Winemaking An Interview with Wynne Peterson-Nedry by Zachary Baum
00 Wines Magazine 2020
06
Two things stuck with me throughout my conversation
with
Wynne
Peterson-
Nedry, 00’s Willamette Valley winemaker, on her winemaking process. The first was her
humble
approach
to
winemaking,
that seeks to capture and preserve the natural flavor and integrity of the grape, from
harvest
to
consumption.
Second,
was a dedication to upholding tried and true winemaking techniques of the Old World,
not
for
nostalgia,
but
because
she believes it’s the best way to make wine at 00. The combination of these two qualities enables Wynne to create the
outstanding,
quality
wines
unique,
which
00
and is
high-
becoming
known for.
I
quickly
got
the
impression
that
for
Wynne
described
the
decision
of
Wynne, the winemaking process begins
when
in
between qualitative and quantitative
the
vineyard.
In
particular,
the
pick
to
pick
as
a
balancing
act
time of the harvest is one of the most
observations
important
“Winemaking is a lot of art and a lot
decisions
she
makes.
The
of
of
make the biggest impact, a lot of the
components to interact well is always
finesse
my
a
vintage
depends
on
decisions of when to pick. It’s when you set
how
much
sugar,
acid,
and
flavor
you have in your grapes. We try our best to
not
add
anything,
so
getting
the
perfect balance of sugar, acid, tannin, and the concentration of flavors is the
key.”
so
getting
grape.
harvest is our one time of the year to
of
science,
the
Wynne
has
understanding
behind
of
wine,
as
she
university
as
a
winemaking,
she
pharmaceutical
these
a
the
was
two
deep
chemistry
trained
chemist. worked industry
Prior in and
in to the a
developmental biology lab.
first major decision I make.”
00 Wines Magazine 2020
07
But despite her scientific background
Thus, stuck fermentations are typically
and the available technology to test
avoided
grapes’ sugar and pH concentrations,
result in more interesting evolutions in
she
more
the barrel with different, robust flavors
reliable way to assess the quality and
evolving. It is for these reasons that
ripeness
choosing
says
tasting
of
is
a
often
a
berry.
“There’s
with
the
“happy
grapes”
highest
quality
and
and
something very special about tasting
responsibly-farmed vineyards is a top
grapes
priority for Wynne and the 00 team.
before
decision.
making
Nothing
is
a
more
picking
influential
than the taste of the berry, no matter
Wynne
further
what the numbers say.”
winemaking
described
mentality,
saying,
her “if
it's
not broken, don’t fix it. Why would we I
was
intrigued
described styles
of
the
by
the
way
relationship
vineyard
Wynne
between
with
the
methods
that
people
have been using to create Grand Cru
and
wines for centuries?” The method of
the making of a vintage. The health of
winemaking she alludes to is that of
grape
the Old World.
vines
difference
is
she
Biodynamic
management
mess
or
the
first
notices LIVE
major
between sustainable
vineyards and conventionally farmed vineyards. As the winemaking process evolves during the fermentation and aging periods, it often becomes more apparent
that
sustainably
farmed
grapes are more harmonious and in balance. This means they don’t lack certain nutrients, as they haven’t had to
compete
with
herbicides
and
pesticides during the growing period. Wynne says that fermentations from these
grapes
tend
to
go
more
smoothly and act more normally.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
08
Wynne says 00 is more French than
As for the style of Wynne’s wine she
American in the sense that computers
describes
aren’t used to automate everything,
nature,” especially the Chardonnays.
it
as
“very
Burgundian
in
from tanks to punch downs. But “Winemaking people than
is
have
2,500
methods
an
been
years.
don’t
ancient doing The
art for
that more
variations
change
that
of
much
the
honoring
winemaking
of
Old
techniques
World
isn’t
an
attempt to stand out in the Oregon wine
market
accolades.
or
Rather,
impress Wynne
wine
feels
it's
whether it’s New Zealand, France, or
simply the best method for amazing
the
different
grapes to show their true potential
equipment, technology, and mindsets,
and produce a style of wine that the
but for the most part winemaking is
00
getting
sommeliers
US.
There
grapes
might
off
a
be
stem,
putting
them in a tank, fermenting them, and
team
enjoys, and
along
consumers
with world-
wide.
putting it into a barrel to age.”
00 Wines Magazine 2020
09
While some winemaking techniques
"Larger
may
only money, but expertise from other
not
change,
the
Willamette
Valley is a dynamic place, which
wineries
are
bringing
in
not
countries; a diversity of knowledge.”
Wynne has witnessed the evolution of from the pioneering days. “From
Wynne
the beginning that I remember, all
decades, her father, winemaker Harry
the
Peterson-Nedry,
wineries,
families,
and
grape
recalled
that
had
in
to
previous
have
his
growers that I knew were relatively
friends in Burgundy buy equipment at
small
the
and
did
everything
themselves.”
local
wine
case
anymore
The big change in Wynne’s opinion
businesses
has happened in the last 10 to 15
industry.
as
larger
companies
scoping up existing ones for their real estate portfolios. The influx of money has meant more marketing, and
region.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
ship
it
to
attention
to
with
catering
to
a
wealth the
of
wine
have
invested in building new wineries or
tourism,
and
Oregon. She said thankfully that’s not the
years,
shop
the
“The one thing I hope doesn’t change is that this has always been a very collaborative place, which I haven’t seen anywhere else. People willing to help each other out, any time, any place. I think 00 is helping to keep that momentum of the small collaborative winery around.” 10
The Journey from Vineyard to Glass: 2018 VGW Chardonnay by Zachary Baum 00 Wines Magazine 2020
11
The
journey
vineyard
to
relationship the
of
the
the
glass,
variables
environment,
process
pose
difficult
wine,
in
and
some
questions
to
from
the
What
and
the
single-grape Chardonnay, presented
viticulture, winemaking
of
the
answer
most in
the
wine world.
in
is
00's
at
first
glance,
minimalist
a
humble,
packaging,
is
revealed inside a complicated story, with
the
reflection
of
environments
from eight separate vineyards in the Willamette Valley blended together. Let
“Science lags far behind our ability to wonder about the origins of aroma, flavor and texture in wines, and our powers of observation in the vineyard, cellar and glass.” Mark Chien.
us
take
a
journey
of
the
2018
VGW from vineyard to tasting, to fully appreciate
the
creating
wine
a
complexity
of
artistry that
involved
deals
with
environmental
in a
and
winemaking considerations.
However, we can still look at factors that
may
outcome
have
of
vineyards,
the
influenced wine
climate,
such
and
as
the the
winemaking
techniques, and wonder about their connections during tasting.
Double Zero’s 2018 VGW “Very Good White”
Chardonnay
epitome saying
of
is
perhaps
Constantin
“simplicity
is
the
Brancusi’s complexity
resolved.”
00 Wines Magazine 2020
12
The journey of 00 Wines begins in the vineyard.
The
vineyards
of
the
Willamette Valley are a reflection of the distinct characteristics of their soils.
How
thousands
unique and
soils
millions
are of
created,
years,
is
a
or
more
complex
accurately, story
evolve
involving
a
over
dance
between biology, chemistry, and physical properties. In 1944, pedologist (one who studies soils) Hans Jenny formulated an equation for the formation of soils: s = f(cl, o, r, p, t, ... ), which has been simplified to the acronym CLORPT.
In his equation S = soils properties, being a function of CL = climate, O = organisms (biology), R = relief (topography), P = parent materials (think back to your rudimentary igneous, sedimentary, and metamorphic rocks), T = time, and an ellipses to account for the unknown properties of soil science.
From all the combinations of these factors, scientists have a generalized classification of 12 distinct soil orders worldwide, which are then broken down into thousands of local “soil series.� The USDA Official Soil Series Descriptions recognizes over 20,000 individual soil series in America alone. Willamette Valley winemakers are fortunate to have at their disposal several highly unique soil series. Even within one bottle of wine, such as the 2018 VGW, you may find that upon close investigation that the fruit is from vineyards with multiple distinct soil orders and series.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
12
Jory Series The Jory soils hold a special place for winemakers in the Willamette Valley and Oregon as a whole. Jory is the official State Soil of Oregon and amongst the first soils to be planted with grapevines. The Jory soils of Western Oregon are purely volcanic soils and are mostly a product of Columbia River flood basalt deposited between 14 to 17 million years ago. They are fairly weathered soils but are not completely decomposed.
They
are
some
of
the
deepest
soil
series with up to 60 inches to bedrock. They are notable for being the most vigorous amongst the volcanic soils for vine growth.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
13
Willakenzie Series The
Willakenzie
soils
are
a
radically
different
soil
type than Jory, being composed of uplifted marine sediments. Willakenzie soils are further divided into 8 subsoils
depending
Willakenzie
is
on
primarily
the
parent
composed
material. of
coarse
constituents such as sand, silt, and clay, whereas Jory is made up of finer sized particles: clay, silt and loam.
This
makes
Willakenzie
a
slightly
better
drained soil type, but it has less of a water holding capacity than Jory. Kevin Chambers pointed out in my conversation with him that a big part of what determines plant behaviors in these soils is the water holding
capacity
of
a
soil
(assuming
you
are
dry
farming, without irrigation). This makes plant growth in Willakenzie soils sometimes less vigorous.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
14
Bellpine Series Officially the Bellpine soils are sedimentary soils, but Chambers between
described Jory
and
them
as
a
Willakenzie,
bit
of
often
a
hybrid
containing
elements of both; in a Bellpine soil you might find a fractured
sea
bed
material
underneath
volcanic
clay. Being sort of hybrid, Chambers points out it may have more nutrient and elemental diversity than Jory
and
Willakenzie,
while
it
has
a
similar
vigor
potential to Willakenzie.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
15
Nature’s Touch: 2018 Climate and Harvest Vineyard
plots
in
the
2018
VGW
blend
were
harvested primarily in late September to early October, with the earliest pick date occurring on
9/2/18
growing
and
the
season
Willamette
of
Valley
latest
on
10/2/18.
2018
in
the
could
be
The
Northern
classified
as
a
relatively mild year, beginning with a dry, mild winter,
a
cool
spring,
and
relatively
low-heat
summer compared to vintages of the last few years. La Nina conditions in the Pacific region (causing
cooler
ocean
surface
temperatures)
were attributed to the cooler and drier climate of 2018. The median growing degree days for the growing season was 2372 GDD F.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
16
The Method of Black Chardonnay Winemaking 00’s Chardonnays are made using a method called
“Black
Chardonnay,”
process that
maximizes
the
an
elaborate
benefits
of
the
natural environment, terroir, and natural wine evolution. Inspired by the boldness of Burgundy whites,
this
process
gives
00
Chardonnays
“complexity” of minerality and salinity to match the delicious flavors expressed in the fruit. The process starts the day of harvest where grapes are placed on a crushpad and stomped, then put
into
a
refrigerated
trailer.
The
skins
macerate overnight and then undergo a long multi-hour pressing process to extract as much flavor from the skins as possible. Off the press is a grape juice mixture resemblant of apple cider color with the texture of turkish coffee. The juice is not allowed to settle and instead put directly into barrels. The solids precipitate down and become a bed of lees, feeding off the
organic
materials
for
several
weeks.
Throughout the process sulfites are not added and only indigenous yeast is used. Once the wines
undergo
their
individual
fermentations,
the wine enters a new phase.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
17
The Master Blend 11
The blending process of all the separate plots, which
have
separately,
been
is
one
fermented of
the
and
most
aged
important
decisions for the 00’s 2018 VGW development. The
process
is
one
of
collaboration
between
winemaker Wynne Peterson-Nedry, the Hermann family, and 00’s Director of Winemaking
Pierre
Millemann. The decision of how much to blend is a
rather
subjective
experience,
intuition,
preference.
Choosing
process, and the
relying
ultimately correct
on
personal
barrels
for
each plot also relies on the same intuition, as barrels differing in toasting and age uniquely shape 2018
the
development
VGW,
multiple
of
the
coopers
wine.
are
For
used
the
(Damy
25%, Cadus 50%, Mercury 25%), with a range in age (18% new, 64% 1 year old, 18% older than 1 year). In the end, the blended VGW is composed to
evoke
village
the
level
characteristics
composite
of
of
a
drinkable
Willamette
Valley
Chardonnay.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
18
Tasting Profile Appearance color
with
is
a
a
lemon-gold
pale
intensity.
Nose is a clean condition, with a medium pronunciation of fruit and distinctive phenolic aroma characteristics. Palate
is dry to
off-dry,
medium
with
a
nice
acidity and a medium-full body, and
a
medium
length
finish.
Flavor characteristics are green fruit (ripe green apple), citrus fruit
(grapefruit),
with
a
potential for mild tropical fruits to
develop
during
aging.
Herbaceous hints are found as a
reflection
from
skin
room
of
development
contact.
for
development
There
autolytic in
is
flavour aging.
Conclusions: a very good wine with either a current drinkability for
a
fresh
wine
or
aging
potential to allow development of fruit and minerality.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
19
End of the Road By
this
point,
understand
hopefully
the
complexity required
you
and
to
immense
craftsmanship
create
village-level
even
Chardonnay
a
at
a
winery where artisanal methods are used in lieu of typical mass production
methods.
Drawing
from an array of vineyards with vastly
different
soil
compositions and applying an inventive
approach
winemaking
in
Chardonnay�
method,
to
the
“Black we
are
proud to be able to share with you
this
We
hope
remarkable you
experiencing
will
for
vintage.
join
us
yourself,
in the
journey of the wine for the 2018 VGW.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
20
The Past, Present, and Future of Wine Fermentation in Terracotta Amphora Vessels by Zachary Baum
00 Wines Magazine 2020
21
Terracotta amphora and ceramic vessels are
among
human
the
oldest
civilization
transportation
of
inventions
that
goods,
of
enabled
notably
wine.
The oldest examples of amphora vessel wine production have been found in the civilizations
of
Georgia
and
Caucasus
from 6000 BCE. Amphora vessels were also
used
in
Neolithic
China,
around
4800 BCE, among the Yangshao culture. Within
the
amphora BCE,
Mediterranean
vessels
where
dates
they
world,
back
was
to
found
3,500
on
the
Phoenician coast. Amphora vessels were popularized the
during
the
Bronze
Mediterranean,
treasured
cultural
age
becoming
item
of
the
in a
Greeks
and Romans. Terracotta meaning,
The
Etruscan
Civilization
of
Northern
Italy (now Tuscany) produced amphora vessels
for
wine
fermentation
and
storage as early as the 7th century BCE, spreading the tradition to the Greek and
is
export which
terracotta are
used
amphora worldwide
and
vessels, by
wine
the
the words amphi- ( “on both sides”) and -phoreus (“to carry”), referring to its
appearance.
vessels
produce
while
word “amphoreus,” a combination of
of
to
word
word amphora comes from the Greek
components
continue
Italian
“baked-Earth,”
Romans through trade. Today, artisans Tuscany
an
of
are
The
terracotta
clays
main amphora
typical
of
the
Florence region, sand, and iron oxide. These
vessels
typically
through
in a method that celebrates this ancient
throwing and coiling techniques, and
ceramic
fired between 1,112 F and 2,830 F.
form
and
style
of
combination
of
made
producers like 00 to create unique wines
art
a
were
wheel-
winemaking.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
22
Amphorae
As fired terracotta is not water-tight, vessels were typically burnished, glazed, or coated with resin. A finishing stamp, figlina (a workshop’s signature), or tituli
picti
feature
(commercial
of
each
identification)
vessel.
Terracotta
are
typically
amphora
also vessels
a
distinguishing receive
their
distinguishing red, pink, or salmon tinge from the reaction of iron with oxygen in kiln firings, resulting in the red Iron (III) oxide.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
23
Terracotta Amphora Vessels in Wine Production
Fermentation composition
understanding
wines
fermented
special,
let
us
in
first
underlying
what
makes
amphorae
investigate
the
mechanism
of
fermentation, the chemical process
of
changes
the
in
the
compounds,
notably the sugar portion is reduced as
Before
causes
ethanol
(alcohol)
is
produced,
typically composing 8-13% of a wine. Prior
to
fermentation,
harvested
when
grapes
the
are
winemaker
determines the optimal levels of sugar, acid, phenol and aroma compounds.
that turns grape juice into wine.
Grapes are then crushed, destemmed, To
put
it
somewhat
fermentation, winemaking, energy
in
biochemistry
is
a
is
process
in
an
where
Prior
fermentation,
grape
composed
79%
of
carbohydrates
to
juice water,
(sugars),
organic
from
environment
oxygen.
various
and
extracted
carbohydrates without
simply,
and
acids,
is 20%
1%
of
and pressed. During these processes, some winemakers add sulfur dioxide to
behavior,
The
use
mineral,
the
juice
vitamin,
constituents
are
fermentation.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
well
and
as
microbial
enzymes
to
is
catalyst
the that
during most
these
important
transforms
steps. is
sugar
the into
ethanol or alcohol:
C6H12O6
→ 2C2H5OH + 2CO2
carbohydrate
components are responsible for the of
as
additives
Yeast
minerals,
(sugar), organic acid, and phenolic
flavors
oxidation
extract juices. However, 00 does not
vitamins, phenolics, and nitrogenous compounds.
reduce
and
and used
wine.
The
nitrogenous for
yeast
Wine makers have a choice between ambient
(sometimes
referred
to
as
wild, native, and indigenous) yeasts or the
grape
“bloom.�
Ambient
yeasts
are favored amongst more traditional winemakers, especially in Europe.
24
00 Wines Magazine 2020
25
Common
genuses
of
ambient
yeasts used in winemaking include Candida,
Klöckera/Hanseniaspora,
Metschnikowiaceae,
Pichia
and
Zygosaccharomyces. While ambient yeasts
do
flavors,
often
produce
they
can
unpredictably
and
unique behave
commercial
wineries often add cultured yeasts, most
commonly
Saccharomyces
cerevisiae or “sugar yeast,” which is also used in brewing and baking.
Temperature
important
The porosity allows oxygen to pass in
role in controlling the fermentation,
and out of the vessel, and for excess
with white wines ranging from 18-
heat to “sweat” out of the vessel as
20
“precipitation.”
Micro-oxygenation
promotes
fermentation
°C
plays
(64-68
ranging
up
°F)
to
an
and
29
°C
red
wines
(85
°F).
healthy
Terracotta amphora vessels offer a
bonding
tricky
the
the color of red wines. Anthocyanins
temperature of a fermentation. 00
are flavonoids, a class of compounds
utilizes
that contain antioxidant effects. They
option
for
special
controlling
techniques
to
manage consistent temperatures.
of
anthocyanins,
and
enhancing
also act as pigments that color plants, such as the red pigment of red wines.
The Impact of Clay on Fermentation
While
anthocyanins
have
no
odor
or
flavor, they play a role in preserving tannins and the stability of a wine’s
Clay
molecules
abundant
with
are
extremely
micro-pores.
This
color
as
vessel
it
has
ages. an
The
shape
important
of
the
in
the
role
porosity allows for more controlled
process of winemaking, as it allows for
fermentation
easy
temperature
and
vertical
believe
of
the
wine
allows
for
more
increased oxygen exposure during
which
the aging of wines through natural
complexity in the pallet, producing a
micro-oxygenation.
more interesting and velvety texture.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
some
movement
26
Comparison of Fermentation Vessels Winemakers
continue
experiment
with
vessels
as
desired
flavors.
are
a
noted
fermentation
way
to
bring
Amphora
for
characteristics.
to
out
vessels
their
earthy
Concrete
tanks
are often noted for expressing the minerality, of
a
acidity,
wine.
and
Concrete
freshness
vessels
are
similar to amphora vessels in the sense
that
they
are
both
porous
and allow for micro-oxygenation.
Traditional
oak
tanks
may
shape
the wine with an “oaky” finish as one might expect, with rustic notes of
vanilla
oak
tanks
or
tobacco.
are
more
However,
difficult
00 Terracotta Amphorae Fermentation
to
clean and sanitize. Stainless steel
All of 00’s single vineyard Pinot Noir
tanks are an industry standard, as
selections
they
Willamette
offer
straight
perhaps forward,
the
most
controlled
and
most
Valley
of
blend
the goes
VGR into
amphora vessels for fermentation.
environment for winemaking.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
27
The Pinot Noir berries are hand removed from clusters, as opposed to sorting machines. Winemaker Wynne Peterson-Nedry said deciding which grapes to put in amphora vessels is based on the harvest yields and grape quality for the year, typically reserving the higher-quality fruit for the endeavor. 00’s amphora vessels are supplied by Itek, which was founded in 2010 by Manu Fiorentini. Itek imports amphora vessels from Tuscany, reconnecting with the ancient tradition of wine production. Fiorentini began importing amphora vessels for winemaking after being inspired
by
describes
incredible
amphora
wines
vessels
that
as
a
were
produced
valuable
tool
from
for
amphora
biodynamic
vessels. and
He
organic
winemakers, especially in Europe, where there is already a focus on natural, nonadditive wine making. Paired with the expertise required to create wines in this vessel, their limited mobility, fragility, shape, and size mean it may not be the primary vessel for winemakers, but will often be used at wineries like at 00 to create
a
special
vintage
from
exceptional
grapes,
or
simply
serve
as
an
experimental project for curious winemakers.
There is something certainly refreshing about a technique heralds back to the ancient world. forever
be
a
sacred
and
guarded
of winemaking that
Fermenting grapes in terracotta clay will practice
for
only
winemakers
with
a
deep
appreciation of nature and fine artistry.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
28
The Science
and Mystique of Wine
by Zachary Baum 00 Wines Magazine 2020
29
Editor's Note
Both aspects of wine, the objective and
It was a pleasure for 00 Wines to introduce Zachary Baum to important contributors to past, present, and future of the Willamette Valley wine industry: Kevin Chambers and Mark Chien. Thank you to these exceptional pioneers for their time and thoughts. - KMH
subjective,
deep curiosity in philosophy, I am always interested in understanding the
relationship
between
science
and nature. Wine is a particularly fascinating these
subject
topics.
Some
to
explore
people
and
perspectives are more interested in the physical properties of wine (the chemistry, biology) and others the more say
“magical,”
“spirited,”
“metaphysical”
dare
aspects
process. Wines are alive inside the bottle and glass, quite literally as we
come
to
of
exposed to both views from time at
my
family
winery
in
Pommard, Burgundy, where wine is made in a very
understand
the
composition of the microbiomes of wine
and
the
role
of
microorganisms in shaping what we call the “terroir” and palate. It is my belief that life is not simply atoms, and
chemical
compounds, but also life contains innate,
inherent
properties
which
give the things around us essence and
spirit,
and
wine
is
no
exception. It is to me, a fascinating question comes sciences
how to
an be.
individual Both
and
wine
physical
philosophical
postulation have a seat at the table for this conversation.
I
wine. I am fortunate to have been
spent
appreciated
and necessary to the winemaking
molecules, As a student of the sciences with
are
To aid in answering this elusive line of inquiry, I was fortunate to speak with two extremely knowledgeable Oregon
wine-gurus,
Kevin
Chambers and Mark Chien.
passionate, French,
Biodynamic fashion.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
30
Mark
Chien
serves
as
the
current
He now owns and runs Koosah Farm,
program coordinator of the Oregon
a permaculture operation in the Eola-
Wine
Amity Hills with his family.
Research
State
Institute
University.
at
He
Oregon
previously
managed Temperance Hill Vineyard,
In my conversations with Chambers, I
served as a wine grape educator at
learned
Penn State’s Extension Cooperative,
biological
and
prestigious
and relationships, which we are only
American
beginning to scratch the surface of in
engages
in
organizations
other
like
the
Society for Enology and Viticulture.
our
about and
the
complexity
chemical
understanding
of
of
variables
how
the
vineyard environment influences wine. When
I
spoke
described
two
with
Chien,
approaches
to
he
wine:
I
found
in
both
perspectives,
that
the quantitative, scientific approach
there will always be in one way or
we
wine
another an enigma to wine and it is this mystery that feeds the curiosity of
often
American qualitative,
find
prevalent
in
wine
culture,
and
the
approach
that
mystical
the French are famous for. He noted that one must know when and how to apply
a
scientific
understanding
wine
approach so
as
to
not
wine.
also
spoke
with
Kevin
In Conversation with Kevin Chambers
to
explain away the magical essence of
I
wine enthusiasts worldwide.
Chambers
Science Behind the Vineyard and Wine The
predominant
practitioners
of
about this topic. Chambers is a fifth-
viticulture might agree that a wine is
generation
Oregon
simply a reflection of a vineyard's soil,
serving
marketing,
in
management
farmer.
positions
sales, at
After and
some
of
physical,
chemical,
and
climatic
factors - usually described as “terroir.”
Oregon’s largest wineries, Chambers purchased and sold Oregon Vineyard
That’s what I thought, after all.
Supply and Results Partners.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
31
However, I continue to wonder the
unique
availability
of
how
nutrients,
Plants
and
(microbial
biological
communities
actors
of
bacteria,
minerals, elements, and micro-climate
archaea, and importantly fungi) share
of
in
a
vineyard
finished and
can
bottle
of
translated wine,
described
then
in
into
a
tasted
terms
like
“minerality.”
a
mutual
Plants,
exchange
grapevines
of
services.
included,
are
incapable of solubilizing most of the readily available nutrients in a soil, so organisms such as mycorrhizal fungi
New
research
university
coming
research
from
both
programs
and
are soluble nutrients for the plant. In exchange,
soil
microorganisms
winegrowers like Kevin Chambers are
receive
casting a new light on what we mean
carbohydrates) from the plants. This
when
relationship
we
comment
on
a
wine’s
exudates
is
(sugars
so
and
important
that
plants will pay out as much as 50% of
minerality and terroir.
their
energy
created
From my conversation with Chambers,
photosynthesis
I
exudes for these microorganisms.
learned
that
a
soil’s
biological
and
from
convert
it
into
populations and diversity are key to better
understanding
the
influence
“Research
indicating
that
what
we
classify as terroir may very well be
the vineyard has on wine production.
more related to the microbiome than Minerality is a scientifically debatable
the mineral content of the soil. The
term,
mineral content is strongly influenced
Chambers
prefaced,
“people
get the notion that these minerals are
by
present in the wine in their elemental
interrelated,
form, which is just not true. It is far
separate them. The diversity and the
more
population distribution of organisms
complicated
than
that.”
The
the
microbiome, not
still
accurate
soil
In
this
is
new research. It opens up a brand
many
cases,
dependent
the
upon
soil
chemistry.
soil the
chemistry soil
biology.
new
take
because
door
Simply focusing on soil chemistry, isn’t
conclusions
capturing
dangerous.”
the
whole
equation
of
of
You it’s
really
questions. at
this
don’t
to
defines
and
terroir.
are
complexity comes in the interplay of biology
the
it’s
they
To
hear
brand
make
point
is
vineyard and viticulture relationships.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
32
Chamber’s explained the vital role of
He
one
woody
micro-organism
recommended,
particular,
These
specialized
orchards), you should avoid breaking
fungi allow for this highly convenient,
the ground after the initial installation
symbiotic
phase
fungi.
relationship
between
vine
to
systems
permanent
in
mycorrhizal
crop
“in
establish
(vineyards
the
plant,
in
or
my
and microbiome communities, as the
firm opinion. It’s not an absolute, but
hyphae of mycorrhizal fungi are able
it should be mostly avoided.”
to
penetrate
the
cortical
cells
of
roots, thus solubilizing and delivering
The takeaway: vineyards are living, biological ecosystems.
nutrients directly.
He referenced a quote on his office wall
to
illustrate
the
importance
of
this relationship in healthy vines: “the fungal
biomass
supporting
a
Management
practices
should
grapevine is 19,000 times greater than
recognize
the root mass of the plant.” However,
biological
not
cover cropping, integrating different
all
systems
management important
of
vineyard
promote
organisms
these
and
their
relationship to the vines. Cultivation, plowing
and
working
of
the
types
this
by
diversity,
of
insects,
beneficial
soil
promoting incorporating
and
promoting
organisms
such
as
fungi.
soil,
destroys these fungi and their hyphae
Future
(fungi
connection between soil biology and
“roots”),
oxidizing promoting
soil
while
also
organic
unhealthy
rapidly
matter
levels
of
and soil
investigations
into
the
the formation of the flavor structure’s in
fruit
and
wine
bacteria that compete with the fungi.
evolving
I pried Chambers for his stance on the
the
debate of whether to plow or not to
production of wine.
our
may
be
understanding
environment
key of
influences
to
how the
plow.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
33
In Conversation with Mark Chien
This methodology seeks (and has yet to
succeed)
to
draw
conclusions
such as how the complex variables of viticulture and winemaking come
Two Sides of the Same Coin
together structure
I was also fortunate to speak to Mark
approach
Chien,
vineyards
who
about
raised
the
current
points
importance
acknowledging our
valuable
the
shortcomings
scientific
to in
form the
the
glass.
The
understands in
a
much
molecular second
wine
more
and
casual
of
relationship,
of
seeking to understand the exact
understanding
without
mechanism
behind
of winemaking. “I would argue that
relationship,
you have to be very careful about the
for
connections between the terroir and
approach to wine.
a
necessarily
which
much
each
arguably
more
allows
“mystical”
the wine in the glass,” Mark said. Chien points out that the French are He
explained
studying
that
wine
different
is
the
approach
divided
into
to
two
“methodologies”:
a
the
masters
of
promoting
the
mystique of wine. He explained the differences
between
the
two
quantitative (often associated as the
outlooks on wine with a story of him
“American
and his father:
approach)
and
the
qualitative (the “French” approach).
In
the
could
quantitative be
reductionist wines simply
and
approach,
viewed lens their
by
through
compounds and atoms.
in
went
to
my a
wine
tasting
vertical
career
tasting
I
of
a
Chateau Palmer. At that point in my
understanding
career I was more attracted to the
vineyard
individual
wine
“Early
soils
as
romantic side of wine and my father
molecular
being more interested in the science said ‘if you really want to understand these wines, bring me 3 ml of each wine.’
00 Wines Magazine 2020
34
and
he
ran
the
wine
through
the
instruments in his lab: mass spectrometer,
gas
chromatograph,
stuff like that, and he broke the wine down into its constituents to try and rebuild it in the lab. That’s one way to look at wine in a very definitive and narrow quantitative sense. But if you want
to
understand
vintages
came
where
these
and
their
from
evolution, and how it
arrived at what
I tasted in my glass, that’s a much more
complicated,
process,
when
qualitative
wine
isn’t
distilled
down into molecules and atoms.”
What I believed Chien’s point to be is, that in theory, one could attempt to synthesize raw
in
a
laboratory
molecules
However,
and
there
profound
is
biochemical
wine’s
compounds.
a
way
a
unique
that
and
nature’s
processes
in
the
“terroir,” the vineyard, and the cellar are
able
to
do
it
in
a
way
that
contains an essence that is beyond the
raw
chemical
constituents.
Our
inability to fully understand wine or synthetically
recreate
laboratory
is
captivate
both
what our
“What captivates us about wine, is really this mystery of wine that will be eternal. If we answered all these questions, I and the wine drinkers who really care about where a wine came from would be disappointed. You can define a wine, but that would take away the all fun.”
it
in
a
continues
to
intellectual
It is tempting to want to understand some definitive mechanism in which the
molecules
microbiome
in
the
precisely
soil
explain
and the
construction of flavor, structure, and aroma of a wine, but I do agree with Chien’s point.
and
imaginative minds.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
35
There
is
danger
in
applying
a
reductionist lens to wine, where one could miss the “essence” of wine by reducing
to
its
mere
constituents.
Seeing wine through with the perspective
of
what
he
called
the
“American method” may be applying an overly scientific lens to something that
does
have
true
spirit
and
mysticism as an intrinsic property.
Does the American method of overapplying wine
the
speak
scientific
to
a
method
greater
issue
to we
have with looking at the world in a purely
mechanistic
way,
where
things get boiled down to the raw physical
properties
and
material
-
the atoms and molecules? When we adopt this way of thinking, I believe we might lose out on appreciating the
deeper
essence
of
things
like
wine.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
36
From
my
conversations
Chambers
and
Chien,
understanding
of
wine
used
can
be
with
the
our
science
for
environmentally
of
informing
responsible
viticulture (promoting vineyard and grape
health)
understanding
and of
aiding
the
in
our
winemaking
process. However, it should not be used
to
explain
away
the
great
mystery of nature that we find within
wine.
When
we
attempt
to
explain the unexplainable and come up with an ultimatum, we run the risk
of
superficial
science
and
stripping the essence from wine.
Both Chambers and Chien brought up
the
same
winegrowing
and
points
perpetual
that
winemaking
scientific AND mystical. a
-
process
is
Nature is in
of
revealing
itself to us through the experience of drinking wine.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
37
00 Wines 2018 Willamette Valley Collection
00 Wines Magazine 2020
38
Introducing Le RĂŞve "The Dream" - our 2018 Willamette Valley collection.
The 2018 vintage in Willamette Valley, Oregon was like a dream. The wether was just warm enough to ripen our region's gorgeous Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with few heat spikes. The slowly ripening fruit matured consistently across our vineyard sourcing sites.
In partnership with our trusted winegrowers, the 00 Wines team carefully selected picking dates with the harvest commencing on September 11, 2018 at the Shea Vineyard and concluding on October 2, 2018 at the Eola Springs Vineyard.
The resulting 2018 00 Wines from the Willamette Valley in this current release display an opulence and concentration of flavors with supple textures
that
are
different
when
contrasted
with
the
2017
00
Wines
portfolio, which upon release had razor-like precision, crystalline textures, and floral notes.
The detail-oriented winemaking of 00 Wines fuses ancient techniques with modern ideas to showcase both vintage and terroir. Each of our selected wines is a snapshot of place and time in a bottle that we hope you will enjoy with loved ones for years to come.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
39
2018 VGW Chardonnay Vineyards:
A blend of 8 vineyards across 5 sub-AVAs
$75 / bottle 750 mL $165 / bottle 1.5 L Alcohol %
13.4%
Willamette Valley AVA
Clones: Elevage / Oak Program:
Pretty aromas of crushed apples, roasted Dijon 76, Dijon 96
Black Chardonnay production, indigenous yeast fermentation, 12 months in Cadus, Damy, and Mercurey barrels (new, 1 yr, and 2 yr) , finished for 6 months in stainless steel.
almonds and hay with touches of dried white flowers and savory green herbs in the background. In the mouth, it's delicately styled and incredibly silky in texture, fleshing out to savory fruits and enlivened by seamless acidity on the long, lifted finish.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
- Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate
40
2018 EGW Chardonnay Vineyards:
Eola-Amity Hills Vineyard (non-disclosed), Chehalem Mountain Vineyard. Willamette Valley AVA
Clones: Elevage / Oak Program:
"Old" Wente 72, Dijon 96 Black Chardonnay production, indigenous yeast fermentation, 12 months in Chassin, Damy, and Mercurey barrels (new, 1 yr, and 2 yr) , finished for 6 months in stainless steel.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
$95 / bottle 750 mL $210 / bottle 1.5 L
Alcohol %
14.1%
The nose has a toasty, flinty perfume, with notions of salted almonds, beeswax and white blossoms. The medium-bodied palate is silky and gently textural, with bright juiciness and slowly expanding savory flavors, and it finishes long and minerally. - Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate
41
38 38
2018 Chehalem Mountain Chardonnay Vineyard:
$125 / bottle 750 mL Chehalem Mountain Vineyard, Chehalem Mountains AVA
Alcohol %
13.2%
The nose unfolds to gorgeous aromas of spring honey, hazelnuts, flint, pastry and a rich core of
Clone: Elevage / Oak Program:
"Old" Wente 72
quince paste and floral perfume. Mediumbodied, the palate is incredibly silky, its broad,
Black Chardonnay production, indigenous yeast fermentation, 12 months in Damy 2 year old barrels, finished for 6 months in stainless steel.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
rich character refreshed by bright acidity, finishing elegantly and flavorful. This is a savory, mineral-driven Chardonnay that has the structure and flesh to give plenty more with bottle time. - Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate
42
2018 Kathryn Hermann CuvĂŠe Chardonnay Vineyards:
$150 / bottle 750 mL Chehalem Mountain Vineyard,
Alcohol %
13.3%
Chehalem Mountains AVA The nose is intoxicating with its slowly blossoming aromas
Clone: Elevage / Oak Program:
"Old" Wente 72
of guava, honeycomb, roasted almonds and loads of floral perfume laced with flint and exotic spices. The palate is
Black Chardonnay production, indigenous yeast fermentation, 23 months in Damy 2 year old barrels
medium-bodied, rounded, broad, silky and seamlessly fresh with slowly opening, detailed flavor layers that extend through the very long, energetic finish. It's a beautifully expressive wine that offers savory, mineral-laced fruits
00 Wines Magazine 2020
with a frame that will carry it several years in bottle. - Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate
43
2018 Richard Hermann CuvĂŠe Chardonnay Vineyard:
$150 / bottle 750 mL Eola-Amity Hills Vineyard (non-disclosed) Eola-Amity Hills AVA
Alcohol %
14.1%
The nose opens with appealing touches of candle smoke and gunflint with a core of
Clone: Elevage / Oak Program:
Dijon 96
toasty red apples, hay and beeswax. The silky, medium-bodied palate explodes with
Black Chardonnay production, indigenous yeast fermentation, 12 months in a single new Chassin barrel, finished for 6 months in stainless steel.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
toasty, mineral-laced flavors lifted by bright acidity, and it finishes very long and textural. It's a touch youthfully closed and has more to offer with another 2-3 years in bottle. - Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate
44
2018 Freya Hermann CuvĂŠe Chardonnay Vineyard:
Eola-Amity Hills Vineyard (non-disclosed)
$175 / bottle 750 mL Alcohol %
14.3%
Eola-Amity Hills AVA It is a touch youthfully closed, taking time
Clone:
Dijon 96
to reveal floral perfume and yellow peaches with underlying exotic spices
Elevage / Oak Program:
Black Chardonnay production, indigenous
and herbs. The medium-bodied palate
yeast fermentation, 23 months in a single
surprises with its explosive, concentrated
new Damy oak puncheon.
flavors, silky, textural and fresh with a very long, uplifted, flinty finish. - Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate
00 Wines Magazine 2020
45
2018 VGR
$75 / bottle 750 mL
Pinot Noir
$165 / bottle 1.5 mL
Vineyards:
Clones: Elevage / Oak Program:
Eola-Amity Hills Vineyard (non-disclosed),
Alcohol %
Shea Vineyard, Hyland Vineyard
The 2018 VGR has a medium ruby-purple
Willamette Valley AVA
color and explodes on the nose with
Dijon 667, Dijon 777
perfectly ripe boysenberries, rhubarb, earth
Coury
and violets with appealing accents of blood
Hand de-stemmed, whole berry fermented with indigenous yeast in 500L terracotta amphora vessels. Aged in 2 yr old French oak barrels.
14.1%
orange. The palate is medium-bodied and finely structured with grainy tannins and bright juiciness supporting the ripe fruits, and it finishes long. - Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate
00 Wines Magazine 2020
46
2018 Shea Pinot Noir Vineyard:
$95 / bottle 750 mL $210 / bottle 1.5 L
Shea Vineyard
Alcohol %
Yamhill-Carlton AVA
Medium ruby-purple in color, it opens slowly
13.1%
on the nose to wild red and black berries with
Clone:
Dijon 777
broody touches of earth, tar and aniseed. The medium-bodied palate offers intense,
Elevage / Oak Program:
00 Wines Magazine 2020
Hand de-stemmed, whole berry fermented
seamlessly framed earth-laced fruits, and it
with indigenous yeast in 500L terracotta
finishes long and nuanced. There's more to
amphora vessels. Aged in new, 1 yr, and 2
come but this is youthfully shy, so give it
yr old Damy barrels.
another couple years bottle. - Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate
47
2018 Hyland
$95 / bottle 750 mL
Pinot Noir Vineyard:
Hyland Vineyard McMinnville AVA
Clone:
Coury
Elevage / Hand de-stemmed, whole berry Oak Program: fermented with indigenous yeast in
Alcohol %
14.5%
Medium ruby-purple, it is deeply scented of smoked meats, dried cranberries and rhubarb with accents of dried tangerine peel, aniseed and forest floor. The medium-bodied palate is fully fruited but not lacking in support, framed seamlessly by firm, ripe tannins and
500L terracotta amphora vessels.
bright freshness. It's layered, broody and deep and
Aged in new Chassin barrels.
finishes very long and loaded with flavor. I love this combination of unabashedly New World fruit with a firmer frame, and this should age very well in bottle.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
- Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate
48
2018 Richard Hermann CuvĂŠe
$125 / bottle 750 mL
Pinot Noir
$275 / bottle 1.5 mL
Vineyard:
Eola-Amity Hills Vineyard (non-disclosed) Eola-Amity Hills AVA
Clone:
Dijon 667
Alcohol %
13.6%
Medium ruby-purple in color, it takes its time to unfold on the nose, fresh strawberries and raspberries emerging
Elevage / Oak Program:
Hand de-stemmed, whole berry
over time with accents of dried lavender,
fermented with indigenous yeast in 500L
tar, forest floor and licorice. The medium-
terracotta amphora vessels. Aged in
bodied palate is firm and super fresh,
new, 1 yr old Damy barrels.
youthfully coiled but hinting at much, more to come, and it finishes with great length. Give it another 2-3 years in bottle.
00 Wines Magazine 2020
- Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate
49
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